Hello Guys, Flashlight Enthusiast here. Today I take a look at a Noctigon KR4 with SST20 4000K 95 CRI and XP-L Hi 2850K 90 CRI. Highly recommended, enjoy!
I have six of Hank’s D4V2 lights, 5000K to 2000K, and the XP-L Hi/SST-20/E21a. I have never specified any special drivers. I know that the E21a D4V2 apparently come with the driver from the KR4. Could you explain why one driver is nicer than the other? You mentioned you like the KR4 driver more?
KR4 is regulated up to 5A, while older driver is FET+1, meaning regulation to 0,375A. Newer driver can offer much higher stable output (regulated brightness), that is why I call it nicer.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast So the older driver on D4V2 allows for lower moonlight lumen output compared to the KR4 driver which struggles at the same moonlight mode? KR4 driver is better at higher lumen output due to higher regulated current?
Standard, unprotected flat top batteries are needed. I use Samsung 30Q or Sony VTC6 batteries, but other brands are also ok, as long as they meet above mentioned criteria
1) Main difference is switch position - if you prefer tail switch over side switch ;) Thermal mass is also a bit higher on KR4. 2) yes, just unscrew the bezel, take out the lens and voila, you have access to the optics
I am glad you like it! Li-ion batteries have no problem with charging them from any voltage, 3,5V or 3,7V is still good power, but full potential in brightness will be only above 4,0V. Personally, I charge around 3,7V. Anduril has low voltage protection, so it will shut off automatically when 2,8V is reached.
@@roylerroycerickson 3.6V is the nominal value. In real life these cells have a 4.2V voltage at the end of the charging process. Hence, 4.2V is full, 3.6V is half empty.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast i have had two batteries that i have put in the kr4 that have had problems charging the charger didn’t recognise them i:e i or them in the correct way around and they didn’t change have you had this is there something i might be doing wrong?
How do you replace the optic? Mine is cracked. The farthest I can get is twisting off the bezel and removing the glass. But I cannot figure out how to remove the optic.
You started the right way. Now try to carefully pry the edge of the optic with a very thin screwdriver and go all around the edge (I use Victorinox glasses screwdriver, hidden in corkscrew). In that way the risk of breaking the legs of optics is minimized. Good luck!
Keep in mind that all Carclo optics have a little "chip" on their edge. It's just a detail that appears from the manufacturing and is nothing to worry about. It's just the place where the optic detaches from the mold.
![PRACTICAL Hotrod! [Emisar D4SV2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6Hz0EPsUOGA/mqdefault.jpg)
![PRACTICAL Hotrod! [Emisar D4SV2]](/img/tr.png)
![The DUAL-CHANNEL Emisar D4SV2 [OVERVIEW]](/img/1.gif)
Yessss I’m waiting on mine in the mail right now, I ordered an xpl-hi 5000k!
Great choice for neutral white tint and sheer power! You will surely be pleased 😀
How long did it take to ship?
very cool! I got the emsiar d4v2 in all copper and i love it. very similiar to this.
I have six of Hank’s D4V2 lights, 5000K to 2000K, and the XP-L Hi/SST-20/E21a. I have never specified any special drivers. I know that the E21a D4V2 apparently come with the driver from the KR4. Could you explain why one driver is nicer than the other? You mentioned you like the KR4 driver more?
KR4 is regulated up to 5A, while older driver is FET+1, meaning regulation to 0,375A. Newer driver can offer much higher stable output (regulated brightness), that is why I call it nicer.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast thank you for the clarification.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast So the older driver on D4V2 allows for lower moonlight lumen output compared to the KR4 driver which struggles at the same moonlight mode? KR4 driver is better at higher lumen output due to higher regulated current?
I just ordered one with the xlp hi 6500
What batteries do people recommend for these type of flashlights? I doubt it uses a standard 18650 3000mah 20a max continuous output?
Standard, unprotected flat top batteries are needed. I use Samsung 30Q or Sony VTC6 batteries, but other brands are also ok, as long as they meet above mentioned criteria
@@FlashlightEnthusiast thanks!
D4v2 is the perfect cause of the magnetic tailcap 👍
Yes, for EDC purposes magnes comes handy
1) Why would somebody buy this over something like the D4v2?
2) Is the diffuser easy to swap? Just unscrew the bezel?
1) Main difference is switch position - if you prefer tail switch over side switch ;) Thermal mass is also a bit higher on KR4.
2) yes, just unscrew the bezel, take out the lens and voila, you have access to the optics
is the sst20 the stock optics? i dont have good hearing and i cannot hear if you mentioned it as the sound is very low. thank you!
Yes, SST20 is a stock option in Noctigon KR4
@@FlashlightEnthusiast sorry i mean is the optics you have on your sst20 kr4 the stock optic or floody optic?
Just got mine, I thought it has anduril so I could use candle light mode but it does not seem to be working.. did this version not have that?
Maybe you got ot with Anduril 2. Try 10H from off and than try to enter special modes
Can you repeat in the chat what 18350 battery you showed in the video? Thank-you.
It was Keeppower 1200mAh (black)
I love my new kr4 how many volts should i let the battery get to before charging?
I am glad you like it! Li-ion batteries have no problem with charging them from any voltage, 3,5V or 3,7V is still good power, but full potential in brightness will be only above 4,0V. Personally, I charge around 3,7V. Anduril has low voltage protection, so it will shut off automatically when 2,8V is reached.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast thanks i also got a kr1 and that is awesome aswell. Sorry for my ignorance but how can a 3.7v battery be more than 4v?
@@roylerroycerickson 3.6V is the nominal value. In real life these cells have a 4.2V voltage at the end of the charging process. Hence, 4.2V is full, 3.6V is half empty.
Do you know where i can buy a new black o ring for this?
If I were you I would contact Hank directly. Alternatively, If you live closer to US, Jackson Lee is a distributor there
@@FlashlightEnthusiast i have had two batteries that i have put in the kr4 that have had problems charging the charger didn’t recognise them i:e i or them in the correct way around and they didn’t change have you had this is there something i might be doing wrong?
How do you replace the optic? Mine is cracked. The farthest I can get is twisting off the bezel and removing the glass. But I cannot figure out how to remove the optic.
You started the right way. Now try to carefully pry the edge of the optic with a very thin screwdriver and go all around the edge (I use Victorinox glasses screwdriver, hidden in corkscrew). In that way the risk of breaking the legs of optics is minimized. Good luck!
Keep in mind that all Carclo optics have a little "chip" on their edge.
It's just a detail that appears from the manufacturing and is nothing to worry about.
It's just the place where the optic detaches from the mold.
@@grzybek3376 imgur.com/gallery/1xFqS3B This is what my optic looks like. Are you talking about the chip on the bottom right?
@@victorchung5939 Use suction cup
Use Scotch tape it will come up
whats the practical difference from the 7a driver vs the stock 5a?
With enough cooling it can stabilize more lumens. In warmer climate you won't see the difference
@@FlashlightEnthusiast ww
@@FlashlightEnthusiast ww