*THIS IS AN UPDATED VERSION OF THE PREVIOUS VIDEO* (and is still NOT A REVIEW) ToyKeeper made some major updates that effectively render the old video obsolete, so I felt a new upload was necessary. There's still some info in the comments in the older video (and admittedly I like it more), so for now it will stay up before it gets unlisted. This is a quick look and overview of the new dual-channel D4SV2, intended to help answer some questions people have about the new light. The video was commisioned by Hank Wang of intl-outdoor.com (Emisar/Noctigon), where this light can be purchased. A full review of the D4SV2 is coming, featuring both of these models as well as the W2 (standard driver) version of the light.
Thanks for this. I’m super new to hank lights and just ordered my first one (regular d4sv2) 2 weeks ago. Still learning a lot about everything on Reddit and this video was really helpful.
I get the feeling folks are gonna poo-poo the D4SV2 now that this is available on the D4V2... Completely ignoring the excellent thermal properties and better throw optics. It won't be the hot rod it is in single-channel configurations, but it's probably going to have some excellent runtimes and high versatility. Nice update on the firmware! I can't wait to flash mine when it arrives so I just have everything available in one!
Indeed, there's a bit less wow factor here but it's super practical, I'm really enjoying these lights. The D4SV2 is an excellent light all-around. As far as enthusiast features go, the dual-channel thing is really more appealing to me than the direct drive Turbo, and it's still super bright!
It's a real shame that short and low quality videos are preferred by social media sites. I got this video recommended and love the production quality and amount of actual content, keep it up!
I hope these videos have been able to help you out with your decision! I definitely recommend the D4SV2 (in whatever variation you prefer) as the best model Emisar has available. There's so many choices though it's really hard to settle on just one
Is there a comparison chart of LED characteristics (output, throw/floodiness p, etc) somewhere? I couldn’t find much useful information on all of the new LED choices on Hank’s site.
Crazy, wish this was available before I ordered the dw4, I would have much preferred the throwy w1 with a floody xpl. For a good range of everything on a headlamp.
@@LuxWad I didn't see it, the main led flashlights list on their site doesn't show any of the dual channel stuff. You have to hit the options menu and go to "new products", it's only listed there. I only looked there by mistake today.
@@LuxWad yea, at least coming from the mobile app it seems like it's more hidden rather than avoids confusion unfortunately which was my experience. But I do see now that there is a new tab at the bottom of the main menu for dual channel lights. I'm just so use to clicking on the led flashlights tab after all these years.... I have ordered hundreds of emisar lights since Hank started.
@@LuxWad Thank you, damn it ... I want an old version with a burning button)) I saw these switches in the photo even before the two-channel emisar, I can ask Hank to install a burning button on the old version ...
Great video as always! I have one question regarding the tint shifting as brightness increases. I would like to have the light ramp from 2000k/low brightness to 5000k/high brightness. When ordering, do I have to select the specific temperature emitter on a specific channel to make this possible? For example do I need to select the 2000k emitters for Channel 1 to be the 'low' and the 5000k emitters to be the 'high' or does this not matter? Thanks
Really great overview! Love your vids. I think I want to go with a dual channel D4V2 with a W1 or W2 on channel 1 and 219b 2700k on channel 2. Would this be a good option for something that would be good close range and long range? Does it matter which emitter goes in each channel? Last question, would you recommend the W1 or W2 on a system like this where it is only running on 2 emitters instead of the usual 4? Thanks for all your work!
I think 219b/W1 would be a good combo. It doesn't matter which emitter goes where, the light will be configured with the proper power for each channel. I would recommend the W1 over the W2 in the single-channel light, as it has a higher intensity. The W2 has about the same efficiency but has a significantly higher max output, which allows it to throw farther when driven by FET in the standard setup. However the dual-channel light can't deliver nearly as much power as it would burn out just two LEDS, so in that setup the W1 will throw farther
@@LuxWad by standard set up, do you mean the D4SV1? I don't see the option to get the D4SV2 with fet driven turbo, back lit switch? I kind of like the idea of getting the standard fet driven one with 4 W2. Just want the backlit switch! I want then allllll
It has a FET on CH1. You should not enable it, as it it's only connected to two LEDS, which won't be able to handle the ~15A or so provided by direct drive. Activating the FET only makes sense in the new tint-ramping DT8
@@LuxWad So I wanted a D4SV2 with lighted switch and W2 LEDs. That wasn't available so I ordered a W2/W2 D4SV2 And plan to reflash the FET enabled driver. Would this make it work like a regular W2 D4SV2?
Unfortunately that probably won't work, the FET is only wired to one channel (2/4 LEDS), so unless you're using a fairly weak battery then you will probably burn out the emitters on the first channel.
That's how all of them are configured, it seems to be the same driver used in the K9.3. It really won't matter much though. The two-channel driver will produce 18A on Turbo, which is about what you'll get with a FET and a decent cell. Though more current will be brighter, the emitters are being pushed well beyond their most efficient operating range so the actual increase in output won't be significant. For example, I have a standard driver W2 D4S and the difference between a 15A cell and a 32A cell is about 700 lumens, or about 15%. Because it's FET drive and not regulated, the turbo output will drop as the cell is depleted, where the regulated driver will be more consistent with its max output
@@LuxWad Ah, I see, thank you!👌👍 And that is about 173%, right? (And you can't set it to like 140/150 steps, probably due to driver limitations, if I understand well.)
I don't know exactly what % that will be, that seems about right. Anduril is designed to produce 150 distinct brightness levels, with 150/150 being either Fet-driven Turbo or just max output if there is no FET. The older version of the firmware used in these tint-ramping lights limited the max output to 130 just to keep things level, but it now allows access to every level up to 150. However above 130 tint-ramping will also change the total brightness, which is shown in the little house-like diagram.
Great Video! I have the D4SV2 2-channel in W2 White/W2 Green. Is there a way to run strobe on just one channel or the other (hoping to be able to use green strobe)? I can't make it work... always runs both channels on strobe...
Which firmware are you running that gives you channel switching? I have SST-20's in deep red and W1's at 6000k and can only seem to get it to switch using tint ramping (frustratingly slow).
Great video! I have one on the way! I went with the XP-L Hd and the W1 Osram. Will the keepower 15amp 26650 be able to put out enough amperage for this beast?
Depends on the emitters, if you have the Nichias + something else it will be enough since the total draw will be under 15A. If you have two channels at 9A each you'll need something with higher draw - the 15A cell will still work but it will degrade more quickly with use
hi my friend...for the blinking modes,can you pick one channel or will both work together? Im waiting for my d4k that has warm white and red channels...I was wondering about the strobes...Thanks for your help
I just got my d4v2 from jlhawaii I'm still waiting for my two d4sv2's from hank the d4v2 is 3 press and hold for special modes strobe ect so 3 press and hold is different on 2 channel lights ?
It depends on what emitters you're using. I have Keeppower 5500mAh cells in my lights for the longest runtime, since they don't need much current. Keeppower's 5200mAh 15A 26650s are probably the best all-round, efest and vapcell have some cells with even higher discharge but I've never used them. Any charger is fine, XTAR is the most recommended
@@LuxWad thanks for the info. I’m still learning about the varied options of LEDs. I ordered Channel 1 Cool white SST20 6500k, and channel 2 warm white SST20 2700k 95 CRI
Right now there is no direct way to do this unfortunately. You can try disconnecting the power and the reconnecting it, as long as there is no manual memory it will reset to center ramp. You can then set this to memory.
On channel switching, other than turbo, is there a setting where you can use all 4 LEDs: ramp up and down, turn off and on, etc. with all 4 LEDs on? ....
No, but you could set the ceiling to 150 and then ramp up. Everything above 130 requires both channels to some degree. Otherwise though you want tint-ramping
Do they all have the color in the front lens when the main channels are off? I see green and pink in yours but no option to select what front ring glow color. Also, what is the difference between the D4V2 and D4SV2 besides battery size.
That glow in the front is caused by the RGB auxiliary LEDS, which come standard and can be configured in the interface. The D4S is larger so has better thermal performance, a more throwy beam, and a slightly better driver with a higher regulated output. Both have the same max brightness and emitter options.
@@LuxWad If I choose the same LEDs as you did on the switcher. More Flood for one and the Osram for more of a throw. If I use Titanium, will it cause these LED to not perform as well due to heat dissipation? Would these LEDs perform noticeably better in Aluminum or Copper? For example. The Alu and Copper Acebeam E70s list a higher lumen than the titanium.
The ti version of the light has a copper pill, so thermals will be basically the same as the AL or full copper version. Full ti isn't available because it doesn't conduct heat well and is a poor choice for a light like this. Also it seems the Xpl-HD isn't available for the smaller D4V2, but the LH351D will be equally floody, and it's got better color so I'd prefer it anyways.
@@LuxWad Thank you, you have been a big help. I will choose the Titanium one then. And that was the LED I was thinking of after doing some research. Now, for the W1 or W2 LED, which would perform better in the D4V2 you think? W2 is bigger, more lumens and W1 is smaller, but more intense? Also, what do you think about the extra floody optic option?? Does it come with both optics still or just one?
I think the W1 is better, since it has more intensity and throws further for the same output - the dual-channel version can't drive the LEDS as hard so W1 makes more sense. In the smaller D4 optic, both W1/W2 produce beams with rings though, functional but kind of ugly imo. You'll have to order the floody optic as an additional extra, it only comes in the light if you buy the E21a version
Hello, I'm thinking of getting a d4k dual channel with w1 6000k with another warm temp floody emitter. What emitter would you recommend? And what is the maximum lumen for these emitters?
For the floody emitter, I recommend the Nichia 519a in your preferred cct, or the XPL-HD for maximum output (same as the light here). The Nichias should be about 2k lumens
@@LuxWad I’ve ordered a d4k full copper dual channel with w1 6000k and 519a 5700k doomed since I like its pinkish tint. It should be fine I don't think I need a really warm light. Thank you LuxWad, can't wait for your next videos.
I just got one in sand color with amber backlight and 519A 5700K dedomed and w1, this light looks like pocket jewelry, but my question is how do switch between tints instantly without ramping each tint out?
You say the set temperature can be memorized...can you please give me instructions on how to do this? Just got my d4v2 with e21a’s 2000k and 5000k and would like to have it’s default be around 3500 but if I want warmer or cooler I can just change that on the fly but after I’m done using it I’d like it to go back to that 3500ish not remember the last tint I was on thanks!
@lucacadianalbert Availability changes over time, if you want something specific it's best to email Hank directly at contact@intl-outdoor.com, he will let you know if that's an option
@@LuxWad Thanks for getting back to me. I have an old Emisar D4 that I bought years ago which has quad 219C - its a nice light but I'm looking to get a V2 or maybe a D4K as an EDC light I can keep in my truck for when I go camping. I'm torn between 519a 4000K domed or either a 4500K/5700K dedomed, some people clam the color on the Dedomed ones are nicer - I just tend to not like the beam pattern on dedomed emitters (less flood) but color is also important. recommendation? I was tempted to get the dual channel but for a basic EDC light I feel its a bit much. Thanks in advance
@@lucacadianalbert The dedomed are going to be similar somewhere in between the 219C and XPL-Hi in terms of throw, while domed they are quite floody like an LH351D. Colorwise, they are much warmer and more pinkish in tent when dedomed. If you want to keep the flood, you can get the same effect by mixing different CCTs, for example 5000K and 3000K. Dual-chanel will let you adjust the temp if you do that, or if you want FET power you can just get the standard version and ask Hank for a tint mix.
Why doesn't the Toy Lady make it so you can use a combination of clicks and holds to access and do things? 9 clicks? That's absurd. A combination of clicks and holds can give you 15 commands or modes with 1 to 4 clicks and holds.
Because that would be completeely impractical for most people, the existing system is easy to use. Features that require 9+ presses are not intended to be accessed often, so it's a non-issue.
@@LuxWad How is a maximum of 4 clicks or holds impractical? By now there should be a GUI on an app that you set everything the way you want by checking boxes and then unload it via usb. This clicking stuff is from the 1940s.
To protest RUclips's removal of the video dislike counter, use this comment's like counter as the video's dislike counter. (This does not necessarily mean I think the video deserves dislikes.) If you appreciate this comment and want it to be seen by more people without leaving a like you don't want to attribute as a dislike on the video, please leave a short reply. If you are inclined to participate in protesting RUclips's recent change, feel free to copy/paste this comment elsewhere.
Need your opinion. Want something with flood and throw. Thinking of the getting the d4v2 with OPTICS: 10621 (SPOT) CH1: NICHIA 519A 5700K CH2: OSRAM W1 6000K
That would probably be your best option. The D4 doesn't have a very throwy optic, but W1 will be a good bit tighter than 519a. You could consider adding DC-Fix or sanding the area over the flood channel for a bigger difference
![PRACTICAL Hotrod! [Emisar D4SV2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6Hz0EPsUOGA/mqdefault.jpg)
![PRACTICAL Hotrod! [Emisar D4SV2]](/img/tr.png)
![Noctigon Throwers Compared! [KR1 vs DM11 vs K1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AdWV8-EsCKc/mqdefault.jpg)
*THIS IS AN UPDATED VERSION OF THE PREVIOUS VIDEO* (and is still NOT A REVIEW)
ToyKeeper made some major updates that effectively render the old video obsolete, so I felt a new upload was necessary. There's still some info in the comments in the older video (and admittedly I like it more), so for now it will stay up before it gets unlisted.
This is a quick look and overview of the new dual-channel D4SV2, intended to help answer some questions people have about the new light. The video was commisioned by Hank Wang of intl-outdoor.com (Emisar/Noctigon), where this light can be purchased.
A full review of the D4SV2 is coming, featuring both of these models as well as the W2 (standard driver) version of the light.
Will you delete the old video?
No I will just unlist it, so anyone with the link will still be able to find it. Just for sentimental reasons, I like that edit more 😅
Thanks for this. I’m super new to hank lights and just ordered my first one (regular d4sv2) 2 weeks ago. Still learning a lot about everything on Reddit and this video was really helpful.
I get the feeling folks are gonna poo-poo the D4SV2 now that this is available on the D4V2... Completely ignoring the excellent thermal properties and better throw optics. It won't be the hot rod it is in single-channel configurations, but it's probably going to have some excellent runtimes and high versatility.
Nice update on the firmware! I can't wait to flash mine when it arrives so I just have everything available in one!
Indeed, there's a bit less wow factor here but it's super practical, I'm really enjoying these lights. The D4SV2 is an excellent light all-around. As far as enthusiast features go, the dual-channel thing is really more appealing to me than the direct drive Turbo, and it's still super bright!
It's a real shame that short and low quality videos are preferred by social media sites. I got this video recommended and love the production quality and amount of actual content, keep it up!
Thanks for making this, ordered the d4v2 version over the weekend and I wasn't sure how it would operate
Omigosh, this is awesome!
Further down the rabbit hole...
Another excellent video! I was thinking about getting an xpl 4000k because I already have a 219b version but now I want that 219b tint ramping lol.
great video! I love my emisar d4v2 from earlier this year. such a great light. My pocket clip broke only after light use.
The D4V2 is great, I really enjoy mine. My pocket clip quickly broke too 😂
Dude your crazy good at video production, keep up the great work. Subbed, and thanks for the informative review. I'll be back!
Another great review!
Thank you for this video! Total noob here but dying to pull the trigger on an Emisar for a month now, just want to be sure I get the right one.
I hope these videos have been able to help you out with your decision! I definitely recommend the D4SV2 (in whatever variation you prefer) as the best model Emisar has available. There's so many choices though it's really hard to settle on just one
@@LuxWad Thank you VERY much!
Ok you convinced me. Love your channel
Thanks to your review, I just placed an order. My first flashlight other than bicycle headlights... if you can count them :P
Is there a comparison chart of LED characteristics (output, throw/floodiness p, etc) somewhere? I couldn’t find much useful information on all of the new LED choices on Hank’s site.
Sorry, there isn't that I'm aware of.
Crazy, wish this was available before I ordered the dw4, I would have much preferred the throwy w1 with a floody xpl. For a good range of everything on a headlamp.
The DW4 should be available with a dual-channel driver as that was released first
@@LuxWad I didn't see it, the main led flashlights list on their site doesn't show any of the dual channel stuff. You have to hit the options menu and go to "new products", it's only listed there. I only looked there by mistake today.
@@preston1614 Yes the dual-channel lights are listed seperately under the "dual-channel and tint-ramping lights" section to avoid confusion
@@LuxWad yea, at least coming from the mobile app it seems like it's more hidden rather than avoids confusion unfortunately which was my experience.
But I do see now that there is a new tab at the bottom of the main menu for dual channel lights.
I'm just so use to clicking on the led flashlights tab after all these years.... I have ordered hundreds of emisar lights since Hank started.
Thank you buddy for the video. Have a question, where did the glowing button come from? Is this such an option? I didn’t find this on Hank’s website.
Yes, when ordering those new dual-channel light, you can choose the switch color
@@LuxWad Thank you, damn it ... I want an old version with a burning button)) I saw these switches in the photo even before the two-channel emisar, I can ask Hank to install a burning button on the old version ...
@@Kuznica_Veshiy_Les_Knife What's wrong with the new version of the light?
Great video as always! I have one question regarding the tint shifting as brightness increases. I would like to have the light ramp from 2000k/low brightness to 5000k/high brightness. When ordering, do I have to select the specific temperature emitter on a specific channel to make this possible? For example do I need to select the 2000k emitters for Channel 1 to be the 'low' and the 5000k emitters to be the 'high' or does this not matter? Thanks
It shouldn't matter, you can have it ramp either direction in the UI, just keep holding the button after reaching either end of the ramp
Really great overview! Love your vids. I think I want to go with a dual channel D4V2 with a W1 or W2 on channel 1 and 219b 2700k on channel 2. Would this be a good option for something that would be good close range and long range? Does it matter which emitter goes in each channel? Last question, would you recommend the W1 or W2 on a system like this where it is only running on 2 emitters instead of the usual 4? Thanks for all your work!
I think 219b/W1 would be a good combo. It doesn't matter which emitter goes where, the light will be configured with the proper power for each channel.
I would recommend the W1 over the W2 in the single-channel light, as it has a higher intensity. The W2 has about the same efficiency but has a significantly higher max output, which allows it to throw farther when driven by FET in the standard setup. However the dual-channel light can't deliver nearly as much power as it would burn out just two LEDS, so in that setup the W1 will throw farther
@@LuxWad that's a great insight. I think I will put an order in soon. Thanks for your work and help! Subscribed
@@LuxWad by standard set up, do you mean the D4SV1? I don't see the option to get the D4SV2 with fet driven turbo, back lit switch? I kind of like the idea of getting the standard fet driven one with 4 W2. Just want the backlit switch! I want then allllll
The standard setup is the single channel D4SV2, which has a FET+N+1 driver. It is not available with an illuminated switch.
Is it possible to ramp all 4 of the main emitters simultaneously as well? Or only 2 emitters at a time?
All 4 emitters will ramp at the same time
So does this version have the FET? So if I re-flash it I can get the max turbo?
It has a FET on CH1. You should not enable it, as it it's only connected to two LEDS, which won't be able to handle the ~15A or so provided by direct drive. Activating the FET only makes sense in the new tint-ramping DT8
@@LuxWad So I wanted a D4SV2 with lighted switch and W2 LEDs. That wasn't available so I ordered a W2/W2 D4SV2 And plan to reflash the FET enabled driver. Would this make it work like a regular W2 D4SV2?
Unfortunately that probably won't work, the FET is only wired to one channel (2/4 LEDS), so unless you're using a fairly weak battery then you will probably burn out the emitters on the first channel.
@@LuxWad could it be that that is how your board is because of the emitter choices, or is that all of the lights?
That's how all of them are configured, it seems to be the same driver used in the K9.3.
It really won't matter much though. The two-channel driver will produce 18A on Turbo, which is about what you'll get with a FET and a decent cell. Though more current will be brighter, the emitters are being pushed well beyond their most efficient operating range so the actual increase in output won't be significant. For example, I have a standard driver W2 D4S and the difference between a 15A cell and a 32A cell is about 700 lumens, or about 15%. Because it's FET drive and not regulated, the turbo output will drop as the cell is depleted, where the regulated driver will be more consistent with its max output
May I ask, can you set the ceiling to be at like 150%? So that you could use 75% of each channel?
Yes, the default ceiling of 130/150 steps is the max level where the two channels are balanced as tint shifts
@@LuxWad Ah, I see, thank you!👌👍 And that is about 173%, right?
(And you can't set it to like 140/150 steps, probably due to driver limitations, if I understand well.)
I don't know exactly what % that will be, that seems about right.
Anduril is designed to produce 150 distinct brightness levels, with 150/150 being either Fet-driven Turbo or just max output if there is no FET. The older version of the firmware used in these tint-ramping lights limited the max output to 130 just to keep things level, but it now allows access to every level up to 150. However above 130 tint-ramping will also change the total brightness, which is shown in the little house-like diagram.
@@LuxWad OK, thanks for the detailed reply!👍
Quick question, with your w1 setup, what's the approximate intensity in candela when on turbo (w1) in your measurement?
49,500 cd
Great Video! I have the D4SV2 2-channel in W2 White/W2 Green. Is there a way to run strobe on just one channel or the other (hoping to be able to use green strobe)? I can't make it work... always runs both channels on strobe...
It seems strobe only works with both channels unfortunately.
Which firmware are you running that gives you channel switching? I have SST-20's in deep red and W1's at 6000k and can only seem to get it to switch using tint ramping (frustratingly slow).
I got it! Nevermind.
Great video! I have one on the way! I went with the XP-L Hd and the W1 Osram. Will the keepower 15amp 26650 be able to put out enough amperage for this beast?
Depends on the emitters, if you have the Nichias + something else it will be enough since the total draw will be under 15A. If you have two channels at 9A each you'll need something with higher draw - the 15A cell will still work but it will degrade more quickly with use
hi my friend...for the blinking modes,can you pick one channel or will both work together? Im waiting for my d4k that has warm white and red channels...I was wondering about the strobes...Thanks for your help
They both work together, though it's possible that has been changed in an update, my lights do not allow for strobe to run on individual channels
@@LuxWad thanks ....you are the best
can you tell me what does the Quad stands for?
Thanks
Quad just means it has four main emitters
I have a sofirn if25 and don't really find the tint changing that useful for me but the throw really interest me
So no Fet? 😱 The 5A or 9A driver, are per Channel or per driver? It's 9Ax2 or even 9 x Led?
9/5A per channel, with 18A total. There is a FET for CH1
I just got my d4v2 from jlhawaii I'm still waiting for my two d4sv2's from hank the d4v2 is 3 press and hold for special modes strobe ect so 3 press and hold is different on 2 channel lights ?
ruclips.net/video/lNp7LRimoVY/видео.html
You sold me on this light. Just ordered from Hank. What’s the best battery and charger combo that would give me the brightest and best performance?
It depends on what emitters you're using. I have Keeppower 5500mAh cells in my lights for the longest runtime, since they don't need much current. Keeppower's 5200mAh 15A 26650s are probably the best all-round, efest and vapcell have some cells with even higher discharge but I've never used them. Any charger is fine, XTAR is the most recommended
@@LuxWad thanks for the info. I’m still learning about the varied options of LEDs. I ordered Channel 1 Cool white SST20 6500k, and channel 2 warm white SST20 2700k 95 CRI
Can you turn off the lighted switch?
Yes, it's connected to the front auxiliary lights
with tint ramping is there a way to find center? so all emitters are on equally, without going to turbo?
Right now there is no direct way to do this unfortunately. You can try disconnecting the power and the reconnecting it, as long as there is no manual memory it will reset to center ramp. You can then set this to memory.
@@LuxWad thanks, i had to do a factory reset but this appears to work
If you buy the dual channel driver in whatever color temperatures, will it still have the smaller leds that change colors?
Yes
Thanks for replying.
On channel switching, other than turbo, is there a setting where you can use all 4 LEDs: ramp up and down, turn off and on, etc. with all 4 LEDs on? ....
No, but you could set the ceiling to 150 and then ramp up. Everything above 130 requires both channels to some degree. Otherwise though you want tint-ramping
I know your not Hank. But is there any issue stopping the dual channel from having the boost driver?
Size. The boost driver needs a large inductor, there's no room to fit two of them in these lights.
@@LuxWad Thanks for the reply. So you would need 2 inductor for binary dual channel (no tint ramping)? Sorry I'm new to all of this.
Yes you would need two separate inductors. You could use much smaller inductors, but you wouldn't get very much power.
@@LuxWad Okay that makes sense. Thanks for the advice and kino videos. +1 Sub
Do they all have the color in the front lens when the main channels are off? I see green and pink in yours but no option to select what front ring glow color. Also, what is the difference between the D4V2 and D4SV2 besides battery size.
That glow in the front is caused by the RGB auxiliary LEDS, which come standard and can be configured in the interface.
The D4S is larger so has better thermal performance, a more throwy beam, and a slightly better driver with a higher regulated output. Both have the same max brightness and emitter options.
@@LuxWad If I choose the same LEDs as you did on the switcher. More Flood for one and the Osram for more of a throw. If I use Titanium, will it cause these LED to not perform as well due to heat dissipation? Would these LEDs perform noticeably better in Aluminum or Copper? For example. The Alu and Copper Acebeam E70s list a higher lumen than the titanium.
The ti version of the light has a copper pill, so thermals will be basically the same as the AL or full copper version. Full ti isn't available because it doesn't conduct heat well and is a poor choice for a light like this.
Also it seems the Xpl-HD isn't available for the smaller D4V2, but the LH351D will be equally floody, and it's got better color so I'd prefer it anyways.
@@LuxWad Thank you, you have been a big help. I will choose the Titanium one then. And that was the LED I was thinking of after doing some research. Now, for the W1 or W2 LED, which would perform better in the D4V2 you think? W2 is bigger, more lumens and W1 is smaller, but more intense?
Also, what do you think about the extra floody optic option?? Does it come with both optics still or just one?
I think the W1 is better, since it has more intensity and throws further for the same output - the dual-channel version can't drive the LEDS as hard so W1 makes more sense. In the smaller D4 optic, both W1/W2 produce beams with rings though, functional but kind of ugly imo.
You'll have to order the floody optic as an additional extra, it only comes in the light if you buy the E21a version
Hello, I'm thinking of getting a d4k dual channel with w1 6000k with another warm temp floody emitter. What emitter would you recommend? And what is the maximum lumen for these emitters?
For the floody emitter, I recommend the Nichia 519a in your preferred cct, or the XPL-HD for maximum output (same as the light here). The Nichias should be about 2k lumens
@@LuxWad are there any throwy emitters that have high cri?
SST20 in 4000K or 2700K
@@LuxWad I’ve ordered a d4k full copper dual channel with w1 6000k and 519a 5700k doomed since I like its pinkish tint. It should be fine I don't think I need a really warm light. Thank you LuxWad, can't wait for your next videos.
Does it come with a battery? How do you charge?
None of Hank's lights come with batteries.
can all 4 diodes work at the same time? and how does management work in this case?
Yes, all four run at the same time. The video explains how that works
I just got one in sand color with amber backlight and 519A 5700K dedomed and w1, this light looks like pocket jewelry, but my question is how do switch between tints instantly without ramping each tint out?
That is explained in the video at 3:05
@@LuxWad ok thanks.
You say the set temperature can be memorized...can you please give me instructions on how to do this? Just got my d4v2 with e21a’s 2000k and 5000k and would like to have it’s default be around 3500 but if I want warmer or cooler I can just change that on the fly but after I’m done using it I’d like it to go back to that 3500ish not remember the last tint I was on thanks!
It's set with 10c from on @ the desired temp
@@LuxWad thanks! Figured it out just messing around with it and looking at the diagram lol
Hi, would a 519a dedomed and w1 6000k be a good combination?
I think it would be a good combo. I think domed 519a would be even better
@@LuxWad thanks for responding, yes your probably right, but like you said I should be good! Thanks, your channel is an awesome value!
What would be the floodiest brightest white led and brightest throwiest white led.
LH351D on 5700K for flood, and Osram W1 for throw (W2 for single-channel lights)
@@LuxWad doesn't look like LH351D on 5700K is available for the dual channel?
@lucacadianalbert Availability changes over time, if you want something specific it's best to email Hank directly at contact@intl-outdoor.com, he will let you know if that's an option
@@LuxWad Thanks for getting back to me. I have an old Emisar D4 that I bought years ago which has quad 219C - its a nice light but I'm looking to get a V2 or maybe a D4K as an EDC light I can keep in my truck for when I go camping. I'm torn between 519a 4000K domed or either a 4500K/5700K dedomed, some people clam the color on the Dedomed ones are nicer - I just tend to not like the beam pattern on dedomed emitters (less flood) but color is also important. recommendation? I was tempted to get the dual channel but for a basic EDC light I feel its a bit much. Thanks in advance
@@lucacadianalbert The dedomed are going to be similar somewhere in between the 219C and XPL-Hi in terms of throw, while domed they are quite floody like an LH351D.
Colorwise, they are much warmer and more pinkish in tent when dedomed. If you want to keep the flood, you can get the same effect by mixing different CCTs, for example 5000K and 3000K. Dual-chanel will let you adjust the temp if you do that, or if you want FET power you can just get the standard version and ask Hank for a tint mix.
Can you ramp all leds at the same time?
Yes
Why doesn't the Toy Lady make it so you can use a combination of clicks and holds to access and do things? 9 clicks? That's absurd. A combination of clicks and holds can give you 15 commands or modes with 1 to 4 clicks and holds.
Because that would be completeely impractical for most people, the existing system is easy to use. Features that require 9+ presses are not intended to be accessed often, so it's a non-issue.
@@LuxWad How is a maximum of 4 clicks or holds impractical? By now there should be a GUI on an app that you set everything the way you want by checking boxes and then unload it via usb. This clicking stuff is from the 1940s.
Remembering a sequence like that is harder for most people, as opposed to just pressing x a out of times and maybe holding the last press.
@@LuxWad Agreed but then those people should not own a programmable flashlight.
The whole point is to make programming easy for people while also running just like a normal flashlight
To protest RUclips's removal of the video dislike counter, use this comment's like counter as the video's dislike counter. (This does not necessarily mean I think the video deserves dislikes.)
If you appreciate this comment and want it to be seen by more people without leaving a like you don't want to attribute as a dislike on the video, please leave a short reply.
If you are inclined to participate in protesting RUclips's recent change, feel free to copy/paste this comment elsewhere.
Need your opinion. Want something with flood and throw.
Thinking of the getting the d4v2 with OPTICS: 10621 (SPOT)
CH1: NICHIA 519A 5700K
CH2: OSRAM W1 6000K
That would probably be your best option. The D4 doesn't have a very throwy optic, but W1 will be a good bit tighter than 519a. You could consider adding DC-Fix or sanding the area over the flood channel for a bigger difference
does d4sv2 got strobe or flash mode? as im thinking to buy 1 and use it for night ride using my bike.
Yes, it has multiple adjustable strobes, including a bike flasher
@@LuxWad hope you can make a short short for that pls :) , as im eyeing this FL for my EDC/Bike Light