If you want an extra damper, just take the springs of the second set of coilovers, as they are coil over dampers... so then you just have the dampers 👍
This kid is a GENIUS when it comes to scratch building. So when/if there will ever be a TWO-SEATER long travel 4x4 with reverse buggy build? That would be fantastic build to see.🤔🤔
I really would like to him try to build Halo Warthog style vehicle, as in how its front suspension is essentially this vehicles rear suspension but in front as well and of course as 4x4 using chains.. Essentially just build rear end of this buggy mirrored in front and add steering knuckles on front. That would be pretty damn cool build and i haven seen anyone do it, nor cant recall any that had 4x4 built even remotely similiar.
I love so much the new way of starting videos. Casual showing the progress and doing a voice-over as an introduction to the episode is so so so top-notch. Love your work mate Keep it up
25:00 A top tip: Buy some quarter inch plastic tubing at the local hardware store... bend them with a heatgun and tape them with ducttape to mock up your frame ideas... Save them for reuse at the next project or use them as ducts for electric wires on the build.... Its a cheap easy way to visualize something before spening many hours building someting wrong...
Glad you went with the curved tube in the back. I think it was the best choice. I do like the added damper idea. like others say, just take the spring off the ones you removed. they are the same fit / already made for them. Another bad ass build!
2 'L"shaped torsion bars,acting as a sway-bar will help solve the additional dampening for the rear,plus help with the lean in corners.It's looking good Chris.
I think you'll find that the top bracket position has a lot more effect on the spring rate than the lower ones. On the lower brackets, as you move the connection point rearward, you're changing the angle in favor of softness, but at the same time, you're giving the shock more leverage because it's closer to the wheel. In other words, the bottom mount points are effectively giving an advantage and taking it away at the same time. Once you fiddle around with it, you might save some weight by just picking a position and sticking with it for the bottom mount. Always fun to watch you go through the process.
Those "pairs" of shocks have different springs, make sure you use a set thats a matched PAIR- then just compress the springs and remove the clips from the tops of the spare pair and remove the springs and just use the Dampener -on the inside where you were having problems with the shock spring hitting the clutch anyways! solves everything
Chris, you should really consider making larger sprockets from shaft to shaft. like from the engine to the jack shaft. the smaller you make them although the same size the more stress you put on those parts while turning. it could ruin the bearings. the farther from the shaft the chain is placed the less shaft to shaft load you get. the gear ratio will stay the same but a lot less stress on those components and less chain stretch.
for the tail, use a piece of 4" pipe about 18"-24" long, centered vertically in the rear and have all the tubes blend into that. It would look kind of like the old boattail. Needs bigger wheels and tires.
For the rear frame make it look like a Sprint car rear end look at a Sprint car and see what you think get rid of the boxy look !! Thanks for a great video again
Great work Chris! Perhaps for the rear, you can make the "verticle" tubes behind the motor with a mitered joint in the middle. So from the side you'd see two shallower angles framing the motor to blend with the rest of the angles you've got in the chassis. Hope another perspective helps, keep up the great content!
Just take the springs off the other shocks, or swap two of the front with two of the rear if they are the same length so that it’s a little stiffer in the front and uniformed all around. Also those shocks on the rear have rubber bump stops on them already. I don’t see a reason to add more unless you remove the original ones for more travel. I’m sure it’ll turn out awesome as all your builds do.
I love the simple look of this buggy, more a sand rail build, would love to see the driveline from the rock crawler swapped to this buggy and the driveline from this to the rock crawler. The Green Meany would then absolutely fly at Busco beech
Looking Awesome. You could maybe try a couple off sets on the braces behind the engine. Or some type of bend on them , to go with the flow of the rest of the build. Your a really smart dude. I'm sure you'll come up with something cool looking and functional. Lol.
The more I look at the build now with what you have changed. I would love to see it with a much more powerful engine now. Maybe a sportsman 850 or something like that. Or a type of motorcycle engine. Something with far more power and speed.
I think the bow facing to the outside is a neat look; mix that with the x-brace and throw a ~4”diameter THICK wall tube in the center of the “X” for the exhaust to come through. That also opens up more a central point to weld bracing, and it’ll look sick imo
i didn't bother to read through all the comments to see if anyone had suggested this, but you could use the inner shock mounts for an adjustable limiting strap so that you could synch down or... preload, the springs more so if he wanted a real low stance for flat tracking it could help lower the CG significantly, and stiffen the ride for less body roll.... i hope you read this whatever your name is lol. Im sure i have heard someone mention your name before in other videos and feel kinda crappy i cant remember🤔. KEEP UP THE AMAZING WORK MAN YOU INSPIRE US ALL! PS cant wait to see the 1 man crawler. i built one a couple years back and need to finish the fine tuning and little things but it runs great otherwise. its always the details that take the most time and i appreciate you in your search to always take your time and just make it right even if it means cutting up what you jus spent days building. Its that mentality that keeps me coming back👌👏
I have always liked your projects, and you are a very skilled fabricator. My only suggestion is that you gotta take it easy with how much weight you add to your builds. You always start with a great plan, but then you go overboard with how much tubing you add. You build stuff that looks like it's gonna be a race car roll cage! Haha.
The shock mounts you fabricated are really just some next level stuff, they are super impressive, I love them! It looks like you're definitely going to need some sway bars front and rear to get rid of the body roll. As for the rear frame, what about an oval shape, kinda like the iconic Bugatti front grill? That might look pretty good on the rear. Keep up the beautiful work, it's just great!
Adjust the shocks were there laid down more at an angle and the trailing arms will have more leverage on them and you might be able to run both plus it could lower it some in the back
Suspension travel and damping on the rear looks great, I think you need to put those other 2 red shocks up front and beef the front up if you are going to jump etc. Nice progress
Definitely the best at what you do, and that thing got a means stance. Looks good..your idea about the dampeners is solid also i would suggest putting some sort of covers by the top mounts on the inside by where your head is going to be.. like a flat plate over it or just plate the whole back behind the seat depending on where the radiator will be.
Hey dude. Just a thought. Use your other coil over and pull the spring off it. Bolt it in place. It still has the dampening and it’s already built for the mounts. Build a rubber bump stop on the shaft of the shock
For your rear tubing connecting to the top. If you start closer to the motor and kick it at about a 45° angle up and back. Then, after about 12" to 16" change the angle to go straight up. Almost like if you flipped the front over and used it for the rear.
Chris, I have been watching your videos since the beginning and love how far your skills have come. Have you tried reaching out to some of the CNC plasma companies to see about getting a small table? It would help when you are making multiples of the same brackets as the ones you did for the shocks and the hub mount. Keep up the great work!
You might be further ahead if you check out A and A manufacturing for things like shock brackets tabs and assorted chassis brackets that won't break the bank
Its the lateral bracing, that runs behind the seat to aft section of the cage. Its this huge straight piece of tubing. If you do something with it, it will change the the entire look of the back of the cage.
That cart is gonna GLIDE man. Good call on the single rear shocks, and I think you'll find the single set up will be MORE than strong enough for jumping. Your back will THANK YOU. If it's still not stiff enough, you can also just change the inner shock mounts to their first mounting holes and mount a smaller shock beside the larger one.
You need to think outside the box! It would be a little more work but way cooler for the rear section to be made out of thin sheet welded together like a modern car chassis. You could make an organic shape of whatever you like! You could even holesaw some holes and have some pipe running through like a crush washer.
Great idea of sticking to the original shape of it You do tremendous work, maybe with the rear of the frame put the top of at more of a slope and make like a cone or spiked look for the rear. The shock adjustment pieces are really nice look to frame and style. Keep up the Fantastic work and great ideas 💡
You could use the second shock mount for your bump stop. Bar in a tube, with desired travel in between the ends of the bar inside the tube holding them in place.
if you're gonna be jumping that thing you might want to get Air Bump Stops, they'll prevent slamming and damage from impact. A lot of the baja trucks use those for that reason. Plus it might save your spine as well!
my 2 cents, the back bars from top bar at the very end to bottom engine frame bars in straight pipe but with the crossover like you suggested. Also yeah maybe 1 shock either side but more towards the back of trailing a bit more? anyway bloody awesome work and she looking real good✌
This thing is really coming along and looking great , can’t wait to see when you get it done and jumping! I think you’re going to have a masterpiece on your hands keep up the great work awesome video👍🏼🤩
Summitt racing sales a roll bar connector. Its called a Trail Gear interconnecting clamp . He could fabricate one easy. Allow easy removal of engines. Next build he should use a big bore forwheeler engine. Fairly light. Most don't have troublesome cvts . Plus tons of power . And usually a reverse on most . Just my opinion.
I think what could be cool for the back of the frame is if you did a fairly sharp bend that starts all the way up under the engine pulley, and then just straight back and up from there intersecting the very back of the frame. This would make the back end in kind of a point rather than a box because of the angle of the tubes. Just my two cents, and that is some serious suspension travel!
Always interesting to see a first or second iteration. What was the need for the intermediary sliding piece for shock location? Wouldnt the multiple holes and shock eye accomplish the same adjustment with many less parts? Yes, it would. KISS is still an age old moniker.
It kinda looks like a water bug , I think it would look cool with a pickup style backside with no top bars . Panel it, and all you will see from the side is the red shocks and top of motor sticking out. As much as it’s a new style is still looks kinda like the other project . Still going to be a ripper either way . Keep up the killer work !!
i like your projects and your upload time schedule. always in time for a nice sunday evening in central europe. AND you need a plasma table ! what could you achive with that !
If you bring the 2 frame rails up in a curve to the top part in the back would make it better.. adding those bars looks goofy, but whatever works to get it finished go for it
You gotta make some kind of carrier bearing for the end of the output shaft on the transmission due to it being a 4x4 that shaft in the Polaris frame goes through a small carrier in the frame to hold it in place
I know triangles are the strongest but the geometric shape of the top is what draws attention . Redesign the top box and gusset it for added strength . Make it curved somehow .
Definitely add the regular shocks for more dampening. Go kart shocks need the help lol. In the back go up at an angle to a small section that is strait up to the top trailing bars. Like a section slightly bigger than a liscense plate. The curved bar doesnt fit the rest of the build.
Your style of just imagining and then building, considering how well you bring your thoughts to life , is quite impressive bro! Very skilled at creation from your minds eye. I am like you, in that, I usually skip paper drawn plans and such............. However, A: I never really bust things out smooth like you do and more importantly B: the majority of my projects do NOT come out well enough to be passable..... Let alone not being very close to what I have in my mind eye.
I was thinking you could get dampners for the second shock mounts or just use straps in place of the second shock to keep the arm from dropping too low when jumping.... It's already there and it would work great, it would keep you from wasting them or having to remove those cool mounts. I wish I could find someone like this where I live because I want to build crazy vehicles like this.... My town hasn't had a crazy vehicle person since the last paragliding guy got lost and crashed, I feel like I need to take up the challenge and build fast electric bikes and other weird stuff then ride them all over town. 😁😂
I really like how you made the rear suspension totally adjustable. it is crucial that the primary and secondary clutches line up properly. because the sheaves on one close together. and the sheaves on the other spread apart. and the belt has to stay straight between the two clutches. tough the operation of the CVT system. something that I'm curious about is weight gain on the rebuild of this project? I'd leave the extra shock mounts since you went all the extra work to make them. and like you said you could add a second set of regular shocks. and it won't hurt the rigidity of the frame and the control arms. you may have to add a disconnectable sway bar for high speed cornering. I like it, the ground clearance is fantastic. this is more in line with something I was hoping I would see you build. not quite a buggy, and not quite a go-kart. I have a feeling this one is going to be AWESOME when it's finished I can't wait.
I would have brought the bottom two tubes together like the top two in the rear and done one single curve tube in the center with a little thicker wall tube. Add a couple aggressive dimple die gussets....(the bottom 2 tubes would be slowly tapered in after the engine plate)
Just a thought. Maybe consider a lil mixing on shock placement to test different handling and in your case clearance s. Some times you find stuff works better. So with dual shocks maybe a bit of stagger between them .or different geometry hole placement .you know outside ones all the way last holes. Then it twin next to it maybe top hole same bottom hole center hole. And there's your dinner
Put the shocks in a single row front & back so that you don't have to worry about clearance or messing up your pulley when chewing into it on the lathe.
Chris for the back of your buggy make a big hoop a big round circle that goes from one tire to the other and connects the top and the bottom with just a big round hoop it's something different
If you want an extra damper, just take the springs of the second set of coilovers, as they are coil over dampers... so then you just have the dampers 👍
That's what I was thinking.
Chris's point here is that these gokart dampers are not good quality. He said he would seek quality dampers to use in this role. A good plan .👍
i was going to recommend a set of basic truck shocks, no spring just dampening.
@@Ghandisgarage i think car dampers would be overkill so i'd imagine truck dampers would be a lot like installing solid steel girders
Coming along nicely Chris. Good idea to leave mounts as like you said you may need to add dampners.
This kid is a GENIUS when it comes to scratch building. So when/if there will ever be a TWO-SEATER long travel 4x4 with reverse buggy build? That would be fantastic build to see.🤔🤔
3 seater lol something different
@@mostlymotorized huh
I really would like to him try to build Halo Warthog style vehicle, as in how its front suspension is essentially this vehicles rear suspension but in front as well and of course as 4x4 using chains.. Essentially just build rear end of this buggy mirrored in front and add steering knuckles on front. That would be pretty damn cool build and i haven seen anyone do it, nor cant recall any that had 4x4 built even remotely similiar.
@@Hellsong89 sounds pretty sick, or get 4 snowmoble tracks, 1 for each tire spot, and have tracks instead of tires
I love so much the new way of starting videos. Casual showing the progress and doing a voice-over as an introduction to the episode is so so so top-notch. Love your work mate Keep it up
The intro is the thing that breaks him off the other youtubers
i also like that he takes us with, into his thought process, i thinks he does more of that, in the last videos, and as i said , like that very much
he is an artist!!!
Definitely the best RUclips channel in this sort of diy go kart fabrication category
Bro it’s crazy to see how far you came from 8 years man!!!!! Cheers too you for doing what you love !!!!!!
25:00 A top tip:
Buy some quarter inch plastic tubing at the local hardware store... bend them with a heatgun and tape them with ducttape to mock up your frame ideas... Save them for reuse at the next project or use them as ducts for electric wires on the build....
Its a cheap easy way to visualize something before spening many hours building someting wrong...
I love this idea
Glad you went with the curved tube in the back. I think it was the best choice. I do like the added damper idea. like others say, just take the spring off the ones you removed. they are the same fit / already made for them. Another bad ass build!
Pretty cool. I like the comment of removing the springs from the other shocks and use them for dampeners.
2 'L"shaped torsion bars,acting as a sway-bar will help solve the additional dampening for the rear,plus help with the lean in corners.It's looking good Chris.
Always enjoy watching! Excellent fabrication love the single engine better than than 2 engines setup
I think you'll find that the top bracket position has a lot more effect on the spring rate than the lower ones. On the lower brackets, as you move the connection point rearward, you're changing the angle in favor of softness, but at the same time, you're giving the shock more leverage because it's closer to the wheel. In other words, the bottom mount points are effectively giving an advantage and taking it away at the same time. Once you fiddle around with it, you might save some weight by just picking a position and sticking with it for the bottom mount. Always fun to watch you go through the process.
That small bend that you put in the rear frame looks great.
If you are worried about dampening, you could maybe use the second shock without a spring.
That's exactly what he said, using incorrect terminology
I missed that, thanks! He is a very clever guy and would not miss that option!
A work of art . Not only cool engineering but really cool looking . Worry a little about taking stiffness from the cv pulley for clearance.
I’m loving the revamp it shows how far you have come and what is possible, it’s definitely more of a beast now! Keen to see it ripping at Red Beard’s.
Those "pairs" of shocks have different springs, make sure you use a set thats a matched PAIR- then just compress the springs and remove the clips from the tops of the spare pair and remove the springs and just use the Dampener -on the inside where you were having problems with the shock spring hitting the clutch anyways! solves everything
Chris, you should really consider making larger sprockets from shaft to shaft. like from the engine to the jack shaft. the smaller you make them although the same size the more stress you put on those parts while turning. it could ruin the bearings. the farther from the shaft the chain is placed the less shaft to shaft load you get. the gear ratio will stay the same but a lot less stress on those components and less chain stretch.
Cross the curves in the back and add a cross behind the drivers seat. Focus on symmetry, parallels, and extending body lines through multiple pieces.
It's cool watching an old project evolve. Seeing that suspension travel, have you considered a sway bar?
for the tail, use a piece of 4" pipe about 18"-24" long, centered vertically in the rear and have all the tubes blend into that. It would look kind of like the old boattail. Needs bigger wheels and tires.
For the rear frame make it look like a Sprint car rear end look at a Sprint car and see what you think get rid of the boxy look !! Thanks for a great video again
Great work Chris! Perhaps for the rear, you can make the "verticle" tubes behind the motor with a mitered joint in the middle. So from the side you'd see two shallower angles framing the motor to blend with the rest of the angles you've got in the chassis. Hope another perspective helps, keep up the great content!
Just take the springs off the other shocks, or swap two of the front with two of the rear if they are the same length so that it’s a little stiffer in the front and uniformed all around. Also those shocks on the rear have rubber bump stops on them already. I don’t see a reason to add more unless you remove the original ones for more travel. I’m sure it’ll turn out awesome as all your builds do.
I love the simple look of this buggy, more a sand rail build, would love to see the driveline from the rock crawler swapped to this buggy and the driveline from this to the rock crawler. The Green Meany would then absolutely fly at Busco beech
The fact that you would build all those brackets for two extra rear coilovers before even trying it with just two coilovers... epic.
Looking Awesome.
You could maybe try a couple off sets on the braces behind the engine. Or some type of bend on them , to go with the flow of the rest of the build.
Your a really smart dude. I'm sure you'll come up with something cool looking and functional. Lol.
The more I look at the build now with what you have changed. I would love to see it with a much more powerful engine now. Maybe a sportsman 850 or something like that. Or a type of motorcycle engine. Something with far more power and speed.
I like that you gave yourself 35° (positions ?)
of options for the suspension. Genius.
Awesome build mate, a set of bypass shocks would be beautiful in those second mounts and really let you soak up the bumps
I think the bow facing to the outside is a neat look; mix that with the x-brace and throw a ~4”diameter THICK wall tube in the center of the “X” for the exhaust to come through. That also opens up more a central point to weld bracing, and it’ll look sick imo
Hy, waouhhh, in the garage, the shocks seem working good. And the ground clearance is super, you wiil pass over big rocks without trouble. Kris
Looks like a Grasshopper!
I mean that in a good way. Great work! 👍
That’s actually a good name for this buggy
i didn't bother to read through all the comments to see if anyone had suggested this, but you could use the inner shock mounts for an adjustable limiting strap so that you could synch down or... preload, the springs more so if he wanted a real low stance for flat tracking it could help lower the CG significantly, and stiffen the ride for less body roll.... i hope you read this whatever your name is lol. Im sure i have heard someone mention your name before in other videos and feel kinda crappy i cant remember🤔. KEEP UP THE AMAZING WORK MAN YOU INSPIRE US ALL! PS cant wait to see the 1 man crawler. i built one a couple years back and need to finish the fine tuning and little things but it runs great otherwise. its always the details that take the most time and i appreciate you in your search to always take your time and just make it right even if it means cutting up what you jus spent days building. Its that mentality that keeps me coming back👌👏
I have always liked your projects, and you are a very skilled fabricator. My only suggestion is that you gotta take it easy with how much weight you add to your builds. You always start with a great plan, but then you go overboard with how much tubing you add. You build stuff that looks like it's gonna be a race car roll cage! Haha.
The shock mounts you fabricated are really just some next level stuff, they are super impressive, I love them!
It looks like you're definitely going to need some sway bars front and rear to get rid of the body roll.
As for the rear frame, what about an oval shape, kinda like the iconic Bugatti front grill? That might look pretty good on the rear.
Keep up the beautiful work, it's just great!
Adjust the shocks were there laid down more at an angle and the trailing arms will have more leverage on them and you might be able to run both plus it could lower it some in the back
Suspension travel and damping on the rear looks great, I think you need to put those other 2 red shocks up front and beef the front up if you are going to jump etc. Nice progress
Definitely the best at what you do, and that thing got a means stance. Looks good..your idea about the dampeners is solid also i would suggest putting some sort of covers by the top mounts on the inside by where your head is going to be.. like a flat plate over it or just plate the whole back behind the seat depending on where the radiator will be.
Super cool machine you are building there, Chris! If You want tips on the suspension, look at how Tim Cameron makes his stuff.
Hey dude. Just a thought. Use your other coil over and pull the spring off it. Bolt it in place. It still has the dampening and it’s already built for the mounts. Build a rubber bump stop on the shaft of the shock
For your rear tubing connecting to the top. If you start closer to the motor and kick it at about a 45° angle up and back. Then, after about 12" to 16" change the angle to go straight up. Almost like if you flipped the front over and used it for the rear.
Making brackets like that looks SOO simple buts its really so hard to get all them holes lined up and straight! Been there done that!
Chris, I have been watching your videos since the beginning and love how far your skills have come. Have you tried reaching out to some of the CNC plasma companies to see about getting a small table? It would help when you are making multiples of the same brackets as the ones you did for the shocks and the hub mount. Keep up the great work!
You might be further ahead if you check out A and A manufacturing for things like shock brackets tabs and assorted chassis brackets that won't break the bank
@@rodtedrow7315 He makes all his stuff from scratch, and I really think a CNC would step up his game.
That’s pretty rad! I dig the different train of thought compared to the rear spool that you normally see. May need to think of some kind of sway bar.
Its the lateral bracing, that runs behind the seat to aft section of the cage. Its this huge straight piece of tubing. If you do something with it, it will change the the entire look of the back of the cage.
Ton of work this week. Nicely done. The second shock could also be reserved for jumping…
That cart is gonna GLIDE man. Good call on the single rear shocks, and I think you'll find the single set up will be MORE than strong enough for jumping. Your back will THANK YOU.
If it's still not stiff enough, you can also just change the inner shock mounts to their first mounting holes and mount a smaller shock beside the larger one.
Looking good! I see someone already suggested a torsion bar, so...
Looking forward to seeing it rip!
You need to think outside the box!
It would be a little more work but way cooler for the rear section to be made out of thin sheet welded together like a modern car chassis. You could make an organic shape of whatever you like! You could even holesaw some holes and have some pipe running through like a crush washer.
Awesome builds. Been waiting for the upload
Great idea of sticking to the original shape of it
You do tremendous work, maybe with the rear of the frame put the top of at more of a slope and make like a cone or spiked look for the rear.
The shock adjustment pieces are really nice look to frame and style.
Keep up the Fantastic work and great ideas 💡
You could use the second shock mount for your bump stop. Bar in a tube, with desired travel in between the ends of the bar inside the tube holding them in place.
if you're gonna be jumping that thing you might want to get Air Bump Stops, they'll prevent slamming and damage from impact. A lot of the baja trucks use those for that reason. Plus it might save your spine as well!
You got some mad fabrication skills chris , two thumbs up .
my 2 cents, the back bars from top bar at the very end to bottom engine frame bars in straight pipe but with the crossover like you suggested. Also yeah maybe 1 shock either side but more towards the back of trailing a bit more? anyway bloody awesome work and she looking real good✌
Great job inner mounts would make great limit strap points .
This thing is really coming along and looking great , can’t wait to see when you get it done and jumping! I think you’re going to have a masterpiece on your hands keep up the great work awesome video👍🏼🤩
By far the best RUclipsr right now…and I watch a lot of RUclips
Summitt racing sales a roll bar connector. Its called a Trail Gear interconnecting clamp . He could fabricate one easy. Allow easy removal of engines. Next build he should use a big bore forwheeler engine. Fairly light. Most don't have troublesome cvts . Plus tons of power . And usually a reverse on most . Just my opinion.
I think what could be cool for the back of the frame is if you did a fairly sharp bend that starts all the way up under the engine pulley, and then just straight back and up from there intersecting the very back of the frame. This would make the back end in kind of a point rather than a box because of the angle of the tubes. Just my two cents, and that is some serious suspension travel!
Thanks looks like it's going to jump real good and always I love your stop drop done animation keep working hard you're one of my favorite channels
Always interesting to see a first or second iteration. What was the need for the intermediary sliding piece for shock location? Wouldnt the multiple holes and shock eye accomplish the same adjustment with many less parts? Yes, it would. KISS is still an age old moniker.
Instead of the shocks side-by-side you could mount them over-under. It would take some creative bracketering but they would also be dual rate.
It kinda looks like a water bug , I think it would look cool with a pickup style backside with no top bars . Panel it, and all you will see from the side is the red shocks and top of motor sticking out. As much as it’s a new style is still looks kinda like the other project . Still going to be a ripper either way . Keep up the killer work !!
for the RBG 420 race you should just build some little yard cart with big tires. also nice belt grinder!
Dampeners should work great.
Awesome build bro can't wait to see it rip 🔥 Can't wait to see ya finish the mini rock crawler also 👍✌️
i like your projects and your upload time schedule. always in time for a nice sunday evening in central europe.
AND you need a plasma table ! what could you achive with that !
Great work Chris you never cease to amaze 👏
Ya some shock absorbers for a car would work perfectly for that looks great keep up the great work
If you bring the 2 frame rails up in a curve to the top part in the back would make it better.. adding those bars looks goofy, but whatever works to get it finished go for it
I think you need to shorten the tubes on the top rear to make it look better , that'll help with connecting the top to the bottom be more aesthetic
Dude its amazing how good your skills are😎
You gotta make some kind of carrier bearing for the end of the output shaft on the transmission due to it being a 4x4 that shaft in the Polaris frame goes through a small carrier in the frame to hold it in place
It looks like a mantis from the front with the green frame! It’s cool! Maybe that can be it’s name!
Always love seeing a video from your builds bro keep it up.
Like the rebuild. May look into lowering it a bit for cornering . Dont wan to roll it trying to drift.
So glad you went to two shocks. Looked silly with two.
That belt sander looks new and a nice!!
For the rear bracing, do a curved cross brace or S shaped cross brace.
I know triangles are the strongest but the geometric shape of the top is what draws attention . Redesign the top box and gusset it for added strength . Make it curved somehow .
Definitely add the regular shocks for more dampening. Go kart shocks need the help lol.
In the back go up at an angle to a small section that is strait up to the top trailing bars. Like a section slightly bigger than a liscense plate. The curved bar doesnt fit the rest of the build.
rear axle shocks for a truck would probably fit perfect
Try using a cantilever for adjusting suspension, gives you more length variation in less space and no angle change.
Your style of just imagining and then building, considering how well you bring your thoughts to life , is quite impressive bro! Very skilled at creation from your minds eye. I am like you, in that, I usually skip paper drawn plans and such............. However, A: I never really bust things out smooth like you do and more importantly B: the majority of my projects do NOT come out well enough to be passable..... Let alone not being very close to what I have in my mind eye.
Cross bracing looks the best in my opinion. Either way great vid
I was thinking you could get dampners for the second shock mounts or just use straps in place of the second shock to keep the arm from dropping too low when jumping.... It's already there and it would work great, it would keep you from wasting them or having to remove those cool mounts.
I wish I could find someone like this where I live because I want to build crazy vehicles like this.... My town hasn't had a crazy vehicle person since the last paragliding guy got lost and crashed, I feel like I need to take up the challenge and build fast electric bikes and other weird stuff then ride them all over town. 😁😂
Suggestion for your next go cart project. All electric battery powered 2 wheel, 2 seat with reverse. Name it E-GO cart
Now you have mounts for another awesome project
depending on how fast you want to go with this one you might want a sway bar like the bigger one you built
A bit squished oktogon as a tailgate maybe. Just a thought. You can mount taillights in it too.
I really like how you made the rear suspension totally adjustable. it is crucial that the primary and secondary clutches line up properly. because the sheaves on one close together. and the sheaves on the other spread apart. and the belt has to stay straight between the two clutches. tough the operation of the CVT system. something that I'm curious about is weight gain on the rebuild of this project? I'd leave the extra shock mounts since you went all the extra work to make them. and like you said you could add a second set of regular shocks. and it won't hurt the rigidity of the frame and the control arms. you may have to add a disconnectable sway bar for high speed cornering. I like it, the ground clearance is fantastic. this is more in line with something I was hoping I would see you build. not quite a buggy, and not quite a go-kart. I have a feeling this one is going to be AWESOME when it's finished I can't wait.
I would have brought the bottom two tubes together like the top two in the rear and done one single curve tube in the center with a little thicker wall tube. Add a couple aggressive dimple die gussets....(the bottom 2 tubes would be slowly tapered in after the engine plate)
Just a thought. Maybe consider a lil mixing on shock placement to test different handling and in your case clearance s.
Some times you find stuff works better.
So with dual shocks maybe a bit of stagger between them .or different geometry hole placement .you know outside ones all the way last holes. Then it twin next to it maybe top hole same bottom hole center hole.
And there's your dinner
you can set the skocks on different angles with your setup that gives you more tuniblity meaning changing angles on one side
This ride height and clearance would be perfect for where I'm at in southern AZ.
Put the shocks in a single row front & back so that you don't have to worry about clearance or messing up your pulley when chewing into it on the lathe.
jump jump jump....going to get soft landing,,,,looking good
Chris for the back of your buggy make a big hoop a big round circle that goes from one tire to the other and connects the top and the bottom with just a big round hoop it's something different
Love you stuff keep It up !!! Any advice for a first buil???
Really enjoy your vids man, helps take my mind of stuff