As others have said most just unplug the sensor. However if the motor is level that shouldn’t be necessary. Just from the looks of your video you are running the prop way to deep. You need to adjust your trim bolt where the prop actually breaks the surface when you’re on plane. It will have capability of running much faster as well. You’re prob not needing to go faster but it will drastically unload your motor and throttle needed to to plane out and that tank of gas should get you 10+ miles in a boat that size. Also a 2 blade 7 or 7.5 inch prop will also be much more efficient.
I run these engines on TroyBuilt tillers. The oil level sensor does this on them as wel , because when its tilling deep the engine is way off level. Running it too full can burn the engine up. Take the oil sensor loose ,.or just cut it like i do. Nut keep a close eye on your oil.
I have this same motor on my boat, as far as the motor, the only time it doesn’t run right is when I’m at about 1/4 tank. It keeps cutting off. I didn’t remove my sensor or anything. Apparently it likes to have a lot of gas in the tank
GO get a 2blade prop! -tap it for m16x.2.0 ad 2 m16 machine washers, re-use the 8mm set screw, 8mmx? tap and bit. (CHECK YOU PROP SHAFT SIZE AND THREADS FIRST, AS THEY DID CHANGE IT I HEARD) BUT No bs, it will almost tripple the speed depending were you set your plane/trim screw...and the engine hardly struggles, youl be able too leave the setup more level and wont have as many oil shutoff issues either. I got a 2blade 7" longtail prop on a 200cc clone twister kit, (came with a 3blade prop) 6-7mph top speed.. I got it up too 15mph, just by changin props.. The 2blade props bite better, cruise along surface better too, likes shallow water.. The 3 blade props like deep water, slow and styeady rpm (be good for big heavy boats w/ small engine) Theres also a kit adapter you can buy on there site too run the 2blade kkk Props.. But i did what another guy did, and just tapped my 2blade 7" prop, reall easy too do.. just get the tap and props. Id go with the 6" threw too-7" 2 blade props too start. ther like 39$ for a pack of 3x,sizes.
@@KayakKid lol yeam i imagine. well, even if you did ie: a 6.25"-6.5" prop, it wouldnt gain too much more speed, BUT, it will work alot better closer too the surface.. letting you get thre real shallow stuff.. Were i run myne its on a river, moving water, sometimes very fast and swift shallow rocxky bottom river, So i gotta keep the boat moving or on plane' and the 2 blade props, grab alot better near surface, even at 1/4-1/2 throttle... I tried myne on a flat back 'ghanoe' and it was awesome.. Bit tippy and sketch but only when in fast shallow river water.. The flat bottom jon is bit better for shallow fast moving water like rivers.. heres a video i made on moddifications and some info on what you can do too these.. ruclips.net/video/I1Mvr4iTDyE/видео.html
Just unplug the oil level sensor it's not going to hurt it and bypass the governor or completely take it out, I have the 212cc and the 420cc never had a problem with either one
Unplug the oil sensor, as long as you have oil in it you’ll be fin I have one on a long tail I use all duck season and river ripping in the summer. I use the throttle on the motor, easier to me just to set it like with a regular outboard
Would like to give you some advice on your mud motor first unhook your governor on your motor and go direct to throttle. This will increase your speed and power of your motor about 50%. Second unhook the oil sensor. You do not need it. You will thank me for this later.
I have the 7hp... I had all kinds of problems. Same issue as you - had to remove the sensor. But mine can't go through mud... literally if I get in less than two feet of water and the fin touches bottom it stalls immediately...
I ran it today in about 1 foot of water/mud and it acted like it was going to stall but never did. I do think I need to adjust the trim bolt to make it run a little shallower. I had it deeper trying to get it to plane out a bit when I didn’t have all my duck hunting stuff in the kayak. I recently unplugged the sensor and it’s ran pretty good since then!
how is the transom holding up? that combination weighs close to 60 pounds right? I have a s-15 sportspal canoe coming and was looking at putting one of these on it. But i feel like that is alot of weight.
Yup it weighs around 50-60lbs. I actually have a special bracket on my Nucanoe F12 transom to help it hold up. So far it’s done well. I don’t have any experience with a s-15 sports pal canoe so I’m not sure how it would handle it…
@@KayakKid I also added an inline fuel shutoff valve. Just a simple petcock. It made a world of difference. My carb seems to leak while in transit on the trailer. It wasn’t uncommon for it to leak out a 1/2 tank while in transit. Apparently those engines don’t like being at odd angles.
@@genekind6099 thanks for the advice! I’ve noticed mine leaking even when I have the stock shut off valve closed. I’ll have to try that out and see if it helps stop the leaking!
I honestly haven't taken it up many rivers. My local river doesn't have chutes or strong currents, so it handles it just fine. It's better than paddling up them, but I think a current moving 5+ miles per hour would be too much for it to keep up with.
@The Kayak Kid: Wesley Littlefield Yeah, I have a bassyaks 33lb trolling motor setup and it can't either. Starting to think an electric mud drive might.
I also have the pivot drive. I have pondered removing the pedals and placing a DC motor there because the rear prop arm can be unlocked for bumps. Not sure if the drive cable could handle the speed though. I feel like the 13hp is definitely enough but that might be too heavy. Lol
I’ll try to get a shot of it for you! The transom mount just “screws” onto the transom. My kayak does have a special attachment on the transom to give it more strength to support the motor.
The only issue I’ve had with the kit is the screw that holds the throttle in place came loose. I’ve ran it extremely shallow and hit stumps going full speed and barely scratched the paint. Overall I’ve been really impressed with the kit!
@@KayakKid nice. I need to run shallow but hate the idea of how long a conventional long tail it. Thanks for the quick reply. Picking up a 1542 tracker topper tomorrow
@@MudMotorsMax agreed. I've got a 1542 tracker and I went ahead and ordered the twister to go on my 13 HP Honda. Assembly was a piece of cake and I've had it out three times since I've bought it and it works flawlessly every time. I get 17 by myself and 14 with a friend/cooler. It's no speed demon but I've already ran it up a creek until I bottomed out in probably 6 in of water and I've had it in flooded farm fields from the local River overflowing. 100%, pleased with my purchase
@@donduck6195 I’m thoroughly addicted man these things are amazing I go in rivers that nobody else has around here makes people pretty surprised it’s pretty satisfying getting outdoors to you know
@@KayakKid what would just the motor and bracket weigh? Do you feel like motor and weight and cost is a better value than an equivalent outboard? I have a basstender that I want to go 15mph on so I'm exploring options.
@@FishHeadsIV I seriously doubt this motor will go 15mph… I top out at 6 maybe 7 going with the wind… the motor and bracket probably weigh 35-40lbs. I take it on and off my kayak every trip and can do it by myself it’s just a little awkward.
As others have said most just unplug the sensor. However if the motor is level that shouldn’t be necessary. Just from the looks of your video you are running the prop way to deep. You need to adjust your trim bolt where the prop actually breaks the surface when you’re on plane. It will have capability of running much faster as well. You’re prob not needing to go faster but it will drastically unload your motor and throttle needed to to plane out and that tank of gas should get you 10+ miles in a boat that size. Also a 2 blade 7 or 7.5 inch prop will also be much more efficient.
Thanks for the tips!
Think you Nailed it
I run these engines on TroyBuilt tillers. The oil level sensor does this on them as wel , because when its tilling deep the engine is way off level. Running it too full can burn the engine up. Take the oil sensor loose ,.or just cut it like i do. Nut keep a close eye on your oil.
That’s what I ended up doing! Thanks for the help!
I have this same motor on my boat, as far as the motor, the only time it doesn’t run right is when I’m at about 1/4 tank. It keeps cutting off. I didn’t remove my sensor or anything. Apparently it likes to have a lot of gas in the tank
If you cut the wires for the oil sensor it’ll stop doing that and it won’t harm the motor unless u forget to add oil
Yup that's what I finally did and so far so good!
GO get a 2blade prop! -tap it for m16x.2.0 ad 2 m16 machine washers, re-use the 8mm set screw, 8mmx? tap and bit.
(CHECK YOU PROP SHAFT SIZE AND THREADS FIRST, AS THEY DID CHANGE IT I HEARD) BUT No bs, it will almost tripple the speed depending were you set your plane/trim screw...and the engine hardly struggles, youl be able too leave the setup more level and wont have as many oil shutoff issues either.
I got a 2blade 7" longtail prop on a 200cc clone twister kit, (came with a 3blade prop) 6-7mph top speed.. I got it up too 15mph, just by changin props..
The 2blade props bite better, cruise along surface better too, likes shallow water..
The 3 blade props like deep water, slow and styeady rpm (be good for big heavy boats w/ small engine)
Theres also a kit adapter you can buy on there site too run the 2blade kkk Props.. But i did what another guy did, and just tapped my 2blade 7" prop, reall easy too do.. just get the tap and props. Id go with the 6" threw too-7" 2 blade props too start. ther like 39$ for a pack of 3x,sizes.
Thanks for the help! I'm gonna have to try that out! Although, IDK if I wanna go that fast in a kayak! 😅
@@KayakKid lol yeam i imagine. well, even if you did ie: a 6.25"-6.5" prop, it wouldnt gain too much more speed, BUT, it will work alot better closer too the surface.. letting you get thre real shallow stuff.. Were i run myne its on a river, moving water, sometimes very fast and swift shallow rocxky bottom river, So i gotta keep the boat moving or on plane' and the 2 blade props, grab alot better near surface, even at 1/4-1/2 throttle... I tried myne on a flat back 'ghanoe' and it was awesome.. Bit tippy and sketch but only when in fast shallow river water.. The flat bottom jon is bit better for shallow fast moving water like rivers.. heres a video i made on moddifications and some info on what you can do too these.. ruclips.net/video/I1Mvr4iTDyE/видео.html
Just unplug the oil level sensor it's not going to hurt it and bypass the governor or completely take it out, I have the 212cc and the 420cc never had a problem with either one
That's my next step if it keeps acting up!
Your right I unplugged mine only problem I had with the 212
I have the the 420 cc never had any issues with any of that put around 200 hours on it until I upgraded to a vanguard 18 hp
Unplug the oil sensor, as long as you have oil in it you’ll be fin I have one on a long tail I use all duck season and river ripping in the summer. I use the throttle on the motor, easier to me just to set it like with a regular outboard
Yup, that's what I've done, and it's been working much better!
Would like to give you some advice on your mud motor first unhook your governor on your motor and go direct to throttle. This will increase your speed and power of your motor about 50%. Second unhook the oil sensor. You do not need it. You will thank me for this later.
Thanks for the tips!
I have the 7hp... I had all kinds of problems. Same issue as you - had to remove the sensor. But mine can't go through mud... literally if I get in less than two feet of water and the fin touches bottom it stalls immediately...
I ran it today in about 1 foot of water/mud and it acted like it was going to stall but never did.
I do think I need to adjust the trim bolt to make it run a little shallower. I had it deeper trying to get it to plane out a bit when I didn’t have all my duck hunting stuff in the kayak.
I recently unplugged the sensor and it’s ran pretty good since then!
Just add yourself a Robertsons Torque Tube or get a wildcat 223cc
After market carb was 15 bucks no fuel issues
I’ll look into that!
Cant you disconnect the oil indicator ? unplug it maybe????
Yes that’s what I’ve done 👍🏼
how is the transom holding up? that combination weighs close to 60 pounds right? I have a s-15 sportspal canoe coming and was looking at putting one of these on it. But i feel like that is alot of weight.
Yup it weighs around 50-60lbs.
I actually have a special bracket on my Nucanoe F12 transom to help it hold up. So far it’s done well.
I don’t have any experience with a s-15 sports pal canoe so I’m not sure how it would handle it…
I had the same issue with my oil sensor. I ended up deleting it altogether.
That’s what I’ve done too. I got tired of messing with it!
@@KayakKid I also added an inline fuel shutoff valve. Just a simple petcock. It made a world of difference. My carb seems to leak while in transit on the trailer. It wasn’t uncommon for it to leak out a 1/2 tank while in transit. Apparently those engines don’t like being at odd angles.
@@genekind6099 thanks for the advice! I’ve noticed mine leaking even when I have the stock shut off valve closed. I’ll have to try that out and see if it helps stop the leaking!
Flooding is caused by float needle valve.
Thanks for the help!
Did you foam the inside of your transom for more support at all?
Nope that kayak is heavy enough without adding foam haha
It might help the rear of the kayak a bit but I don’t think it needs it
Put a 2 blade on there
Thanks for the advice!
How much faster will I go with a 2 blade?
@@godslittleman5451 I haven't tried it yet, so I'd be interested in knowing as well!
Not sure depends on which prop you have .I have a sps kit I have a 6.25 -6.5 - 7.5 I hit 19 mph with the 7.5
The three blades cause a cavitation to much disturbance in water hurting your performance if that helps
You gotta cut out the oil sensor holmes.
Yup that’s why I did 👍🏼
How do you get the attachments like the set up for the motor I already have the motor but I can’t find The shaft or the bracket to put on the boat
Like where do you find the kit
mud-skipper.com/twisters.html
I bought it directly from mud skippers website!
What kind of up river capability? Can it overcome current in chutes? I have a NuCanoe Flint.
I honestly haven't taken it up many rivers. My local river doesn't have chutes or strong currents, so it handles it just fine. It's better than paddling up them, but I think a current moving 5+ miles per hour would be too much for it to keep up with.
@The Kayak Kid: Wesley Littlefield Yeah, I have a bassyaks 33lb trolling motor setup and it can't either. Starting to think an electric mud drive might.
@@JB-dy3mi I've seen some guys use a torqueedo with a rock guard on it but idk that it could handle that kind of beating.
I also have the pivot drive. I have pondered removing the pedals and placing a DC motor there because the rear prop arm can be unlocked for bumps. Not sure if the drive cable could handle the speed though. I feel like the 13hp is definitely enough but that might be too heavy. Lol
@@JB-dy3mi haha yeah I think a 13hp would be a little heavy for a Flint!
Can you show a picture of the transom mount? Thanks
I’ll try to get a shot of it for you! The transom mount just “screws” onto the transom. My kayak does have a special attachment on the transom to give it more strength to support the motor.
I understand the issues with the motor, but what about the actual twister kit itself? Any issues with breakage or complaints?
The only issue I’ve had with the kit is the screw that holds the throttle in place came loose. I’ve ran it extremely shallow and hit stumps going full speed and barely scratched the paint.
Overall I’ve been really impressed with the kit!
@@KayakKid nice. I need to run shallow but hate the idea of how long a conventional long tail it. Thanks for the quick reply. Picking up a 1542 tracker topper tomorrow
@@donduck6195 no way man long tails are boss
@@MudMotorsMax agreed. I've got a 1542 tracker and I went ahead and ordered the twister to go on my 13 HP Honda. Assembly was a piece of cake and I've had it out three times since I've bought it and it works flawlessly every time. I get 17 by myself and 14 with a friend/cooler. It's no speed demon but I've already ran it up a creek until I bottomed out in probably 6 in of water and I've had it in flooded farm fields from the local River overflowing. 100%, pleased with my purchase
@@donduck6195 I’m thoroughly addicted man these things are amazing I go in rivers that nobody else has around here makes people pretty surprised it’s pretty satisfying getting outdoors to you know
Unplug the senser that's what everyone else does.
That’s my next step if it acts up again but so far it’s running good!
What's something like that weigh?
My kayak weighs 80ish pounds plus my gear, the motor, and myself, it might total 300lbs or so.
@@KayakKid what would just the motor and bracket weigh? Do you feel like motor and weight and cost is a better value than an equivalent outboard? I have a basstender that I want to go 15mph on so I'm exploring options.
@@FishHeadsIV I seriously doubt this motor will go 15mph… I top out at 6 maybe 7 going with the wind… the motor and bracket probably weigh 35-40lbs. I take it on and off my kayak every trip and can do it by myself it’s just a little awkward.
Is that a nucanoe f12?
Yes it is, Kevin!
Bring a small bottle of oil next time
My next step on mine is trying a diesel engine
Hmmm I never thought of that! Let me know how that works out!
Just get yourself a wildcat 223cc
Thanks for the recommendation!
@@KayakKid definitely
@@KayakKid ruclips.net/video/GzwsGgc8X04/видео.html here’s me with my wildcat 223cc best engines so far and I’ve been doing this for 3 years now
@@KayakKid Also no oil sensor to worry about
@@MudMotorsMax haha that’s nice!