Thanks man, I appreciate you acknowledging the axel hitting the sub frame on the RHS, though dropping the wishbone was a pain as all three nuts ended up sheering. Replaced the ball joint and it’s working really well now.
I saw a couple of videos at start with the right side.. I endup stay blocked and your video show me the solution.. Tomorrow will unbolt those three bolts and finish the service. Thanks
Just done this,after a lot of head-scratching..decided to jack up the bottom of the spring with a piece of box section on the trolley jack...worked a treat ;-)
@@TheDutchGarage the only thing is the special equipment which is necessary for removal and adjustment of the springer. But I think it can be done too with two straps and ratchers. ;)
Just done this. The bottom gall joint tip was useful, but protect the driveshaft from scratches, it's still tight and takes some wiggling of the steering & loose ball joint. Other tips: A sparkplug socket will fit the spring cap. Some have external hexes you can turn. You'll likely need a long torx 45 bit to fit through it. Fit the boot to the bottom plastic retainer thingy BEFORE fitting them to the damper and it'll stay in place without needing a cable tie.
the new lower makes a rubber sound when turning the steering wheel. probably rubber to metal sliding. Do you think it will go away on its own later? the top rubber
@@TheDutchGarage Only the right bearing has been replaced with a new one and it makes the noise. The left side is old, which is good. maybe an idea to reassemble the old one. After a WD40 spray the noise is gone but I'm afraid it will come back
@@TheDutchGarage just take a look. If I have to take everything apart, I put the old ones back on, they were still fine and no sound. thank you for your response
Surely no need to remove Scuttle panel, as the rubber strip ends can be pealed back and there is enough flexibility in the panel ends for access to the top mountings?
Thanks for the video was very helpful for (Skoda Fabia 1.2tsi Estate 2015) identical in every way and explained well had use vice grips as had the same problem as you worked fine will invest in a proper tool bit just to check its done up to correct torque though 👍😀
Mijn Engels is niet helemaal goed , maar bij de rechterkant maak je dus de draagarm los en draai je de hele boel opzei zodat die langs het subframe kan correct ? De steekas hoeft dus niet los
For passenger side, cant you just jack up under hub using trolley jack, then clamp spring using spring compress then undo strut pinch bolt and release jack and that will give enough room to hammer out strut?
At 13:00, where you remove the shock and the spring from the car, I am not able to get it off. It will only go down by about 1 centimeter, and it's impossible to get further down. What should i do? I do exactly all the steps as you do
The axles are probably binding or the swaybar is being a ass. Be sure to lift both front wheels from the ground. If you still can't get them off. The only thing you can do is remove the whole shock assembly. So undo the axle and brake caliper and ball joint.
KYB Excel-G are good (they are as good as new on my passat after 40.000 km). I just replaced my original VW shock absorbers which only lasted 40.000/2 years on my Polo 6R. So, don't even think to buy original vw parts.
Scared the hell out of me at 2:35 -> DONT TRY THIS FOR A START IS MY ADVICE, VERY DANGEROUS IF JACK FAILS, VERY NOT PROFESSIONAL! Better remove axle and (or strut together with hub also) losen hub and swivel joint instead, this way u could damage your axle and more...I would not recommend this video.....very amateurish.
Thanks for your concern, that is the moment he put the stand under the car. there is always a IF factor even with jack stands. And yes i'm just a guy in a garage shooting videos en hopefully it helps someone out. And sometimes we do some stupid stuff without realizing the danger.
I wish more tutorial videos were as thorough and properly well shot as yours. Spectacularly done, lads, hats off.
Thank you sir, it just takes al lot of time to make that is the downside.
This video also works for Skoda Fabia Mk2. Very instructive, clear and useful video. Thanks guys!
No problem, glad it was useful.
Thanks man, I appreciate you acknowledging the axel hitting the sub frame on the RHS, though dropping the wishbone was a pain as all three nuts ended up sheering. Replaced the ball joint and it’s working really well now.
Yes those bolts are a nightmare. And are one time use only also! Fortunately ball joints arent that expensive.
loved this.... Just changed springs on my 2013 6r gti... Was so easy with this guide... even as a person that never tried it before :)
It is really not complicated. Did you also need to change the top bearings?
good to see these videos shows exactly what you need before you start and save s
you time and money if you choose to do it. thanks to the Dutch Garage
That is exactly why I do this videos. Thank you for your kind words.
I saw a couple of videos at start with the right side.. I endup stay blocked and your video show me the solution.. Tomorrow will unbolt those three bolts and finish the service. Thanks
Just done this,after a lot of head-scratching..decided to jack up the bottom of the spring with a piece of box section on the trolley jack...worked a treat ;-)
Creative, I like it ! just be careful it is not worth busting your teeth out for it.
thanks for explaining. your video is much clearer than some other vid's.
No problem, glad that it helped you out.
@@TheDutchGarage the only thing is the special equipment which is necessary for removal and adjustment of the springer.
But I think it can be done too with two straps and ratchers. ;)
Sure sure, but please be save. I be leave that the set I have here is maybe 20 usd. So not to bad for a special tool.
Just done this. The bottom gall joint tip was useful, but protect the driveshaft from scratches, it's still tight and takes some wiggling of the steering & loose ball joint.
Other tips: A sparkplug socket will fit the spring cap. Some have external hexes you can turn. You'll likely need a long torx 45 bit to fit through it.
Fit the boot to the bottom plastic retainer thingy BEFORE fitting them to the damper and it'll stay in place without needing a cable tie.
I'm hopefully doing this tomorrow, as a happy amateur, thanks for the video.
It's not a difficult job. Just be careful with the spring.
Nicely presented! Well done and thanks for making the video.
"Hoe zeg je dat nou?" Reasonably 😂 geweldig
the new lower makes a rubber sound when turning the steering wheel. probably rubber to metal sliding. Do you think it will go away on its own later? the top rubber
Maybe it has to settle 🤔 but the top bearing can also be at fault.
@@TheDutchGarage Only the right bearing has been replaced with a new one and it makes the noise. The left side is old, which is good. maybe an idea to reassemble the old one. After a WD40 spray the noise is gone but I'm afraid it will come back
@erenoglu no rust in the strut tower? Maybe rub them in with some silicone paste. To help them seat.
@@TheDutchGarage just take a look. If I have to take everything apart, I put the old ones back on, they were still fine and no sound. thank you for your response
Great video, the panel where the wipers are is called a scuttle panel.
Thanks that's good to know.
Surely no need to remove Scuttle panel, as the rubber strip ends can be pealed back and there is enough flexibility in the panel ends for access to the top mountings?
I have seen guys do that and broke the windshield in the progress. So be careful.
Thx for the turtorial man. Saved me from allot of cursing 😂
Great to hear!
Thanks for the video was very helpful for (Skoda Fabia 1.2tsi Estate 2015) identical in every way and explained well had use vice grips as had the same problem as you worked fine will invest in a proper tool bit just to check its done up to correct torque though 👍😀
Thanks for not saying that you have removed the driveshaft. Only after going back 10000 times i seen it off
Really? I'm almost sure that I didn't remove the driveshaft.
Mijn Engels is niet helemaal goed , maar bij de rechterkant maak je dus de draagarm los en draai je de hele boel opzei zodat die langs het subframe kan correct ? De steekas hoeft dus niet los
Mijn engels is ook je al te best😅. Maar klopt, je hoeft de steekas niet te verwijderen.
@@TheDutchGarage top bedankt de schokbrekers zitten er onder 👍 af en toe hoor ik de vering nog een beetje zetten zegmaar is dat normaal ?
Mooi man! Kan, maar heb je de veren wel weer goed tegen de stop rand gezet?
@@TheDutchGarage ja dat wel
Iv got a creaking sound when i go over bumps or unever roads, is that the top bearings do you think?
It is possible, but first check you silent blocks of your front controle arm. Sometimes sway-bar bushings also can start squeaking.
hi, to remove the right side shock absorber is it enough unscrew the 3 bolts as you do? Thanks a lot.
Hallo, you also need to undo the bolt in the hub en try to wiggle it out of there. Just as in de video.
@@TheDutchGarage ok, the same work done for the left side and also unscrew the 3 bolts. Thank you for your help!
For passenger side, cant you just jack up under hub using trolley jack, then clamp spring using spring compress then undo strut pinch bolt and release jack and that will give enough room to hammer out strut?
You probably can but getting the tools to clamp the springs in there will be a challenge.
At 13:00, where you remove the shock and the spring from the car, I am not able to get it off.
It will only go down by about 1 centimeter, and it's impossible to get further down.
What should i do? I do exactly all the steps as you do
The axles are probably binding or the swaybar is being a ass. Be sure to lift both front wheels from the ground. If you still can't get them off. The only thing you can do is remove the whole shock assembly. So undo the axle and brake caliper and ball joint.
The left side isnt complicated but the right side is a bloody pain.
I think the proper way is to remove it from the driveshaft, but you'd need a socket for the hub nut.
Buona sera.
Desidero sapere quali sono le chiavi che necessitano per la sostituzione dei 4 ammortizzatori della polo 6r?.
grazie.
Hi there I do mention all the tools you need in the video's I don't have a list on hand what you need.
@@TheDutchGarage non so l'inglese ma grazie lo stesso
Thanks for the video, going to change the springs on my Ibiza cupra this weekend, just what i needed :)
No problem, good luck this weekend!
Fantastic job I love this channel
Thank you! I hope it will only gets better.
Which shocks did you buy? KPX??
Sorry, it is the Dutch way to say KYB.
KYB Excel-G are good (they are as good as new on my passat after 40.000 km). I just replaced my original VW shock absorbers which only lasted 40.000/2 years on my Polo 6R. So, don't even think to buy original vw parts.
Originals are Sachs if i'm not mistaking. But your right KYB is defensively not a bad brand especially for the price!
FYI the replacement shocks I bought (KYB 339763) had 6mm hex and 22mm replacement top nut. Luckily I've spotted this before stripping out the car.
Really? I hate it when they do that. My OCD kicks in so hard then.
Are KYB 339763 or 339741 the correct ones for a vw 1.4 polo
I bought my 2012 mk6 in 2019 and it has these shocks i have driven 49.000km and they are still good i guess. A bit firm on the bad roads but ok
Potrei sapere i codici degli ammortizzatori?
This video saved me! Thanks😊
Great to hear! dont forget to order the top bearing also. Most of the time there shot.
22:40 do you know where i can get these nuts from? Thanks
I think you have to go to the dealership for that.
@@TheDutchGarage i managed to get some off ebay, thanks for the reply though!
Thanks for the info!
No problem, thanks for watching.
Danke !
Graag gedaan.
I made this yesterday both sides, 35 min
That's quite fast!
Good
Thanks!
WLL COME SIR MY FROM INDIA
180'000 km to miles 111'856 polo vw mk5
Thank you.
@@TheDutchGarage seen video need some with wheel bearing tool wv polo 1. 4 9n 2004 how long would job take
@@movesky6696 Front wheel bearing you can do it in about 1 or 2 hours.
Punto 1.6 SR Kadam
Thank you for whatching!
Scared the hell out of me at 2:35 -> DONT TRY THIS FOR A START IS MY ADVICE, VERY DANGEROUS IF JACK FAILS, VERY NOT PROFESSIONAL! Better remove axle and (or strut together with hub also) losen hub and swivel joint instead, this way u could damage your axle and more...I would not recommend this video.....very amateurish.
Thanks for your concern, that is the moment he put the stand under the car. there is always a IF factor even with jack stands. And yes i'm just a guy in a garage shooting videos en hopefully it helps someone out. And sometimes we do some stupid stuff without realizing the danger.
@@TheDutchGarage therefore u have people like me who warn u for this kind of crazy shit...
Too much talk
That's absolute true.