In most contemporary instructions on the use of this type of guide, it is recommended that it be held on the top plate and the depth gauge at the same time (e.g. Stihl, Vallorbe). In contrast, Oregon's instructions rather suggest that the guide should only be run on the surface of the top plate, which certainly results in more file protrusion. In the original patent for such a guide (Atkins/Borg-Warner) both ways were mentioned. In the good old days, Stihl also recommended for 3/8 using a 5.5 mm file. Once the top plate reached half its length, they said to use a 4.8 mm file. At that time, 5.2 mm files for chain sharpening were probably not yet manufactured. It is interesting to note that at that time a guide with a different part number was intended for sharpening Rapid Super chains (full chisel). And it was unlikely to be about a 10° down angle, as at that time they still recommended a file tilt for all their chains except Rapid Standard (chipper). Nowadays Stihl only has one type of that guide for Rapid Super and Micro, which matches the part number of the former one for Rapid Standard and Micro. If one has a vise fixed near the corner of the table, a good method for more even left and right teeth is not to change hands during sharpening, but to use one body position on one side of the corner of the table for sharpening the left (or right) teeth and then change the body position by 90° (the other side of the corner of the table) for sharpening the right (or left) teeth.
I like the standard file guide but I do hand file in the paddock. File guides work well. In fact, I recommend them. Fun Fact : The human finger(s) is more accurate at feeling a burr than any machine short of a scanning electron microscope.
Hi and thanks for sharing, appreciated. Oh yes. Guides, used right help so much! Why? _(rhetorical)_ I recently watched _"Dan Tilton Chainsaw Safety"._ It has some good info. He said 85% of the performance of a chainsaw is the chain. There is some truth in that. Your vid on the leading edge and 1st mm or so of side plate gives a big part of why. Sharpness starts with getting the following right on each tooth: 1. The leading edge pointy (to penetrate wood fiber) 2. Side plate sharp (to cut the fibers) 3. Top plat sharp (to chisel out the cut fibers) and 4. Depth gauge height (to set angle of attack and depth of cut) Hitting 1, 2 and 3 are *precision* actions. If one swipe hits them, no need for more and if 10 hasn't then more are needed. When people come to their chain without the why, they are without power and often blindly following what others told them to do. _(Time indexed link: ruclips.net/video/WwO0CDYxyxc/видео.html )_ 4. Depth gauge height has *dynamic and precise* requirements. One swipe too much can be the difference between smooth or bumpy cutting. (Note: If I use the Stihl FG2 on a chain and don't change it's file height then after a few tanks cutting, the semi chisel chain can be brought back on many teeth with just 1 or 2 strokes. Because the FG2 sets up exactly the same, the file profiles each tooth the same as the last time. BUT when sharpening for a new chain many more stokes are usually needed because the factory grind was not with a file so it's profile has to be filed in. Thanks again for sharing Cheers sincerely d
hi@@ChainsawUsers It's good for my needs. I did 4 chains yesterday all with teeth at similar length. So it was a simple matter to set it up and do 4 chains one side then do the fiddly turning the FG2 around and the file and 5deg down and going through them on the other side. Will be falling and bucking 5 trees at nearby property soon so I needed to do it. FG2 is too fiddly and slow for some. Lots find the Dremel type tools quicker and less fiddly. Or a grinder of some sort. The linked vid is by a professional chainsaw user/employer. He sets a machine and comes back later to sharp chain. ruclips.net/video/HEnx4oLxRlY/видео.html&pp=ygUedG9wIGJyYW5jaCBjaGFpbnNhdyBzaGFycGVuaW5n FG2 great for me not for him. Going to do some brushcutting today. Need to trim some tracks and knock back some lantana. Cheers and have a great day sincerely d
Love my therapeutically hand filling, and my mental diagram never lets me down. Muscle training benefit!
In most contemporary instructions on the use of this type of guide, it is recommended that it be held on the top plate and the depth gauge at the same time (e.g. Stihl, Vallorbe). In contrast, Oregon's instructions rather suggest that the guide should only be run on the surface of the top plate, which certainly results in more file protrusion. In the original patent for such a guide (Atkins/Borg-Warner) both ways were mentioned.
In the good old days, Stihl also recommended for 3/8 using a 5.5 mm file. Once the top plate reached half its length, they said to use a 4.8 mm file. At that time, 5.2 mm files for chain sharpening were probably not yet manufactured.
It is interesting to note that at that time a guide with a different part number was intended for sharpening Rapid Super chains (full chisel). And it was unlikely to be about a 10° down angle, as at that time they still recommended a file tilt for all their chains except Rapid Standard (chipper). Nowadays Stihl only has one type of that guide for Rapid Super and Micro, which matches the part number of the former one for Rapid Standard and Micro.
If one has a vise fixed near the corner of the table, a good method for more even left and right teeth is not to change hands during sharpening, but to use one body position on one side of the corner of the table for sharpening the left (or right) teeth and then change the body position by 90° (the other side of the corner of the table) for sharpening the right (or left) teeth.
I can file left or right handed but prefer right handed. I like the Atkinson file holder have a few pictures of it wish they still made it.
I like the standard file guide but I do hand file in the paddock. File guides work well. In fact, I recommend them.
Fun Fact : The human finger(s) is more accurate at feeling a burr than any machine short of a scanning electron microscope.
Yes the finger works well
I hand file, but then touch up with this guide. Takes away human error.
Hi and thanks for sharing, appreciated.
Oh yes. Guides, used right help so much!
Why? _(rhetorical)_
I recently watched _"Dan Tilton Chainsaw Safety"._ It has some good info. He said 85% of the performance of a chainsaw is the chain. There is some truth in that.
Your vid on the leading edge and 1st mm or so of side plate gives a big part of why.
Sharpness starts with getting the following right on each tooth:
1. The leading edge pointy (to penetrate wood fiber)
2. Side plate sharp (to cut the fibers)
3. Top plat sharp (to chisel out the cut fibers)
and
4. Depth gauge height (to set angle of attack and depth of cut)
Hitting 1, 2 and 3 are *precision* actions. If one swipe hits them, no need for more and if 10 hasn't then more are needed. When people come to their chain without the why, they are without power and often blindly following what others told them to do. _(Time indexed link: ruclips.net/video/WwO0CDYxyxc/видео.html )_
4. Depth gauge height has *dynamic and precise* requirements. One swipe too much can be the difference between smooth or bumpy cutting.
(Note: If I use the Stihl FG2 on a chain and don't change it's file height then after a few tanks cutting, the semi chisel chain can be brought back on many teeth with just 1 or 2 strokes. Because the FG2 sets up exactly the same, the file profiles each tooth the same as the last time. BUT when sharpening for a new chain many more stokes are usually needed because the factory grind was not with a file so it's profile has to be filed in.
Thanks again for sharing
Cheers
sincerely
d
Can't beat the FG2 great aid.
hi@@ChainsawUsers
It's good for my needs.
I did 4 chains yesterday all with teeth at similar length. So it was a simple matter to set it up and do 4 chains one side then do the fiddly turning the FG2 around and the file and 5deg down and going through them on the other side.
Will be falling and bucking 5 trees at nearby property soon so I needed to do it.
FG2 is too fiddly and slow for some. Lots find the Dremel type tools quicker and less fiddly. Or a grinder of some sort.
The linked vid is by a professional chainsaw user/employer. He sets a machine and comes back later to sharp chain. ruclips.net/video/HEnx4oLxRlY/видео.html&pp=ygUedG9wIGJyYW5jaCBjaGFpbnNhdyBzaGFycGVuaW5n
FG2 great for me not for him.
Going to do some brushcutting today. Need to trim some tracks and knock back some lantana.
Cheers and have a great day
sincerely
d