Recipe For A Hot, Low Budget 318 Mopar
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2024
- We have about 700 bucks wrapped up in our happy little Small Block. Here's everything you need to duplicate it at home.
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Uncle Tony is a legit genius /mad scientist. The way he gets so much out of an engine for so little is art. Guys like him are a dieing breed.
he takes stock parts and applies a little elbow grease to them, in the right places, to improve their function... old school/ratrodder style
Research Tony Defao and see who he is
And he puts in a language that beginners like me can actually follow and learn from..
This build is like a “Sloppy Mechanics” channel build. But instead of a modern LS engine, using an old, old looked down on Mopar small block. Way more fun!
I don’t think the small block mopar is looked down on. It’s pretty common knowledge that they make TONS of torque and pretty good horsepower easily. I think the problem is everyone thinks they’re very expensive to build. Which they can be. But they don’t have to be.
@@67buick barely more expensive then a sbc or a ford. Unless your getting shit like alluminum blocks and rods and custom cranks
@corine colt holy run-on sentence Batman! Just because something has a blower, doesn’t mean it has 675 hp. You can obviously make that with a junkyard engine and boost, but it’s gonna take a decent amount of psi. That can be said for almost every engine tho.
here comes the uncle tony tax on 318's haha
@Jared a junkyard build is gonna be basically the same price. Barely more. But even rockers and aluminum heads and intakes are more. And less places make that stuff too
Oh my God, I’d almost forgotten the trick of swapping pistons and rods in the 318. You’re so right about the porting work. Good old fashioned shade tree hot rod ding from the late 60’s. You bring tears to the eyes of an old geezer like me (72).
Good to see you hear with us dear sir
That piston flipping goes back to Ford flathead days.. real old school stuff..best gear head channel on you tube.
@@shorty808100 you a hater bro, because if you're doing it you'd have your own channel.
I had forgotten all about that old trick to squeeze a little more power out of an engine
I still don't get it? Excuse my ignorance.
Hotwheel66 piston pins are off set slightly to reduce piston slap on cold startups. Putting them in backwards increases the dwell time at TDC...if I remember correctly good for a couple of horse power.. old Ford flathead trick.
@@shorty808100 how about do some research lol, you can find studies done on that old "myth" and they conclude that it does give a small boost in power.
I've been a 318 believer for 40 years. They may not be the most powerful engines out there but they are reliable and buildable. My old '76 Dodge B200 with the original 164k mile 318 just made a 3664 mile trip to Colorado and back, no sweat. It's never been opened up since I've owned it; I'm 2nd owner and that's all the way back to 42k miles. However it may be time to tinker! Tony proves you don't have to break the bank to run better!
"A loose motor is a happy motor " I'm convinced that more street strip engines are lost due to tight factory clearances than due to weak parts or to much power adder.
Exactly!
Can’t believe how many grenades I saw from guys with a blueprint boner .... loose ( to a point) is fast.
Yep, when Harley motors star running reaaaaaal good they're gettin' ready to let go, enjoy it while it lasts.
Agreed
Ever question yourself on why an
Engine always runs like hell right before it lets go...
Love the fact that your videos tend to show people how to budget build engines like the Slant six and the humble 318 for maximum effect. These are the type of things that the average guy can Aspire and relate to. Always look forward to your videos.
I cut my teeth on a 318 in the 80's. . '73 Challenger I bought for 500 bucks. Had an anemic 318 with a 2brl. I threw a cam, 360 heads, 4brl and intake and a set a headers and had a blast for years in that car.
In '81, I bought a sub 20K mile, '73 Challenger Rallye (mint), for $400. 318 / 2bbl, slap Stik in console, dk green,w/green interior and vinyl top, magnum 14s with white walls,...And the performance hood. Took out the screws in the scoops, and block plates (coolness). Played AC/DC BackInBlack at Max volume (factory AM/FM -Cassette), and drove the whitewalls off it. Popped the Sears radials, one by one.(NOT good for wheel openings or trim). Single exhaust, so clean, I could open up first connection after theY pipe, by downshifting.,....to Open exhaust.(VERY COOL). Used Centerline rims and tires off my other Mopars at the time, and added T/A ßtripes and hood blacklut. Put gas in it for WEEKS.....and left it in the desert, Southeast of San Diego. True story, too many cars/ too cheap. Age 20. Stupid is as stupid does. o
I build motors all the time and there is a saying in the motor building industry - "too loose and only you will know, too tight and everybody will know". A few tips for those who will be building.
When your crank is being ground, ask for it to be ground to low limits. This is the extra clearance Tony was talking about.
If you are getting your rod bolts replaced, resize the rods and have them resize them to the middle clearances if possible. Too tight will reduce rod journal bearing clearance, but increase bearing crush. Too loose will increase rod journal bearing clearance, but reduce bearing crush. With the crank ground to low limits, and the rods in the center of their allowable size, your rod clearances usually end up real close to where you want them for a performance street build. For any performance motor, I replace the rod bolts and resize the rods. Once you have done it enough, you can tell how round the big ends of the rods are by how the rod caps come off.
Stock parts are actually pretty tough when setup correctly. The two weak points in most motors are the oiling system and the valve train.
I like to replace the valves with new one piece valves. Its cheap insurance because the factory 3 piece valves like to break off the heads at the worst possible moment. This is especially important for a head that has loose guides. Hardened valve locks are a must as soon as you go up in spring pressure. Luckily they are cheap. Older Mopars have a really strong shaft rocker setup and strong pushrods, so little is needed to be done there. For other motors you may not be so lucky.
For any motor, pay attention to the oiling system. Clean it, make sure that all of feed holes line up properly, that there is no leaks, clearances are set correctly, and that the pickup is set correctly in the pan. Any of these are wrong and your motor will not last long. A high volume pump may be needed in a motor that is built really loose to keep acceptable idle oil pressure but it takes more power to drive and oil drainback can be an issue. A high volume pump can pump a stock oil pan dry because the oil can't drain back to the pan fast enough. A high volume pump is not always needed, or wanted.
With stock parts, stock or stock replacement bearings are fine. The stock pistons/rods/oiling system will fail before the bearings are overloaded.
Thanks for being explicit. Love the advice.
When Uncle Tony uploads I stop what I'm doing and watch.
Your dammn skippy
So do I glad to hear I'm not the only one
Same
Just how I like my women; hot, low budget, and loose
Fast and loose.......
Prostitute
Hey, now
Can't have her leaving the block
I like girls 24-35, blonde or brunette!😎😀
At least one thing should be Tight, Wet, and Hot!
The video length is 7:27.
I see you being clever with the mopar references.
I noticed that too
This project takes me back to when I was younger it makes me want to do it again great job brothers
My Thoughts Exactly, I don't think you ever out grow it!
Hundreds of thousands of dollars is spent by the major companies in Research and Development including the engines and the tolerances they calculate to take into account the oil type and squash rates, viscocities and additives to acquire healthy coverage, bleed and running temps where its needed. Big clearancing can lead to unwanted materail passage through sacrifial bearing areas which pass through to more crucial and vulnerable areas also leading to catastrophic failure, at worst. I used to remember hearing high strength Magnets on the block and sump, in areas, can help catch unwanted material movement, old computer hard drive magnets work great and the look very fitting as i recall, bust em open, grab the magnets 😉. Its a banger Uncle Tony i just hope its a gear banger on the strip, all the best 😊
I put a magnet in every engine I build. And that's been over 400 of them. Its some scary shit to take an engine apart and see how much metal is on a magnet.
Stick the magnets on the oil filter and throw away the metal shavings when you change oil.
I love the light fixture tip! You know you're a car guy when everything you see could be modded for horsepower.
Smooths the airflow into the carb. The smoother the turn radius/arc the better.
Remember Tony cut the choke horn off also.
This also works under your air filter.
Years ago there was a cone thing pointed down that fit over the filter stud to help shape airflow.
Works.
We did it in 1960.
Dakota Bethune the more you can get air flowing downward and smoothly toward the carb the better. That why drop base air cleaners are bad for hp. But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
@@67buick exactly. Motortrend did a test on air filters and found that even just flipping the lid on the air cleaner is about 10hp
I love this build. Watching it makes me feel like a teenager again and brings back a lot of good memories from street rodding when I was young. Pure old school. Uncle Tony is still young at heart. I come back to watch it every now and then because it puts a smile on my face. Thanks again for posting.
Man, I wish I lived by Uncle Tony. It makes me wonder how much power I’m losing by not doing simple things to my B body Mopar. His knowledge is awesome. I’m addicted to these videos!
You never cease to amaze.. it's pretty cool to see someone else has the same thoughts. Chevy isn't the only cheap horsepower. You just gotta know your machine. Well done man!
i'd love to see a dyno run of this thing. love these no-nonsense builds.
Exactly no bs imo best gearhead wrencher on boobtube!
No its not 350hp + lol . It's not magic it's a basic build it's still just a 318 . 🤣😂😅
@@jimbotheassclown go look up the 400hp 10:1 318 build. its easy to get 350hp from a 318.
Block: 1968 Plymouth Barracuda 318 block - zero decked (pistons flush with the block at TDC), line honed
Crank: Forged 273 crank
Rods: 73-and-up LA connecting rods with ARP rod-bolts.
Pistons: Keith Black KB 167 hypereutectic
Rings: Federal Mogul pre-gapped moly rings
Windage tray: Factory 318 police car windage tray
Heads: Magnum heads (59 cc closed chambers, 1.92" intake/1.625" exhaust, 1.6:1 rocker ratio)
Head gaskets: .040" head gaskets
Compression: 10:1 compression with Magnum heads, zero-deck short-block and .040" head gaskets.
Cam: Comp Cams 280H Magnum camshaft, single-pattern, 280* adv. duration, 230* duration @ .050", .512" lift with the 1.6:1 Magnum heads (normally .480" lift with 1.5:1 LA heads).
Pushrods: Comp Cams #7960 pushrods (7.650"
Intake: Mopar Performance M1 single-plane for Magnum heads
Exhaust: TTI 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" step headers
Ignition: MSD distributor, box and wires
Carburetor: Mighty Demon 750 CFM
Carburetor Spacer: Wilson 1-inch tapered spacer
Engine oil: Royal Purple 10w-30
LOL little more to it than flipping the pistons .🤣😂😅🙄
@@jimbotheassclown thats the 400 hp 10:1 build. a 5.2 magnum with a bigger cam, better intake, a little porting, and headers could do 35hp, i think.
I'm blown away by this channel. I've spent about $2,000 in the last month on repairs to a Nissan Murano and a Ford F150. I went out and bought a floor jack and jack stands after I watched the money slip away on things I should have done myself...then I saw this channel. I know I've read your articles because all we read in high school was mopar/hot rod mags and here you are busting off the line like a bandit. This stuff is so raw and straight forward. When you said one of your favorite music genres was punk rock it all made sense. Keep up the good work. Don't change a thing.
The 318 has always been my fav, vastly under rated
by many IMO. I had an old 80s van that passed a 350 Camaro (WFO side by side and he didn't want to be passed) on the highway and the guy followed me until I stopped, to see what I had under the hood. He was choked to learn he was outrun by a tired 318 with a Carter Thermoquad and no other mods.
I guess your old 318 van (with it's rinky dink cam, lousy heads, tiny valves, low compression ratio (but that super duper Carter 4 barrel) and restrictive exhaust manifolds was faster this THIS 350 Camaro (14.2 second @ 100.3 MPH quarter mile, stone stock):
www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a15141878/1970-chevrolet-camaro-z-28-road-test-review/
Heck, I bet your van was faster than my '99 1LE LS1 6 speed Z28. After all, that was only a 346 CID (smaller than a 350 Chevy) engine.
LOL
The 318 was never intended to be a performance engines. Rather, it was designed for cheap family cars and taxicab service. That's been common knowledge for more than half a century. Getting one to make a whole 200 HP at the rear wheels requires lots of well matched and properly installed aftermarket parts. Given the large variety of viable alternatives, it's basically a waste of time.
I'l note that I honestly appreciate the spirit of this video, though observed the lack of any empirical evidence (e.g., documented chassis dyno or drag strip results.
And truth is, your van was nothing more than an upright 17 seconds (in the quarter mile) vehicle at best.
All the specs (incl 99 Camero specs) are nice however, the "average" Camero from 77 had at best 165 hp...
Loose is smart, heavy load and high rpms = more heat = more swelling of the metal. The tolerances listed are for daily drivers, Tony's on point for getting the most from his nearly stock motor. Also he is expecting to break some stuff having fun, not get 300,000 miles driving to work. It's just like filing your piston ring end gap, heat swells the metal. Tolerances allow for the swelling so you don't have to measure a hot crank, and oil not only lubricates but transfers heat like coolant. In full on murder mode that crank will swell, and the added oil will keep it from going too far
"Gear it until you fear it" will make any small cube engine scream. Nice low budget build. $250 a month spent over a year can make for a nice toy.
Sam Hagins I ran 3.91 gears with my 318. Ran great.
Uncle Tony is an old school hot rodder and I enjoy every one of his videos. He knows his stuff and I would love to chat with him for hours on old V8’s and tips and tricks!! You da man Uncle Tony👍
You and Steve dulcich need to get together. Both in love with a 318 and both old school tips and tricks. Love it
Might wanna watch it. A lot of people around here don’t like the mtod guys lol
dubc60 they’re mad because they spent all their money on a mopar and can’t afford mtod
Id rather see tony and freiburger
Dulcich is the king of the 318. No doubt.
@@67buick Skylark how are you bud? What does mtod stand for? Cheers mark.
I used to be a Mopar nut back in the day. Good to see someone still running them. Mopar used to sell a performance book w/"recipes" for different builds- B, RB, Slant 6, A and Hemis, I think. The hot tip back then was using parts from the 340 and 360 to open up the flow and strengthen things a bit.
Tbh, my B body early 70s car had a 318 and it was a dog, until I split the single exhaust downpipe which was 1 5/8 dia. (and was pinched in half @ the turn at the bottom of pipe where it starts backwords...) I truly believe this is what choked the motor. To make dual exhaust, I used adapters on the downpipe from 1 5/8 to 1 7/8, then 1 7/8 to 2 inch diameter. Then used 2" turn at the bottom, then 2 1/4 adapter then pipes to a set of Cherry Bomb mufflers. Then 2 1/2 pipes out to the sides. This REALLY opened up things and made it a different car. Set the point gap tight by the specs, dwell longer than usual and wider plug gap. Aftermarket air cleaner and adapter. It ran like a scalded ape! And kept the gas mileage reasonable too.
Totally agree, these engines have a lot more potential than given credit for.
In case you haven't been around Mopar engines a lot of power can be Found within the stock Heads, like Our Uncle Tony said it's grinding away here and there.. Peace
For my street stock car on a 1/2 mile high bank (Lebanon Valley Speedway) in upstate ny I ran a 72 Duster body. 318 block, 360 heads and intake with a 2bbl carb and a 340 purple cam straight up. Electronic ignition. 3.23 gears and ran auto trans in 2nd. It had pretty good low and top end. All junk yard parts as my friend owned the yard and he raced as well. There were 7 of us that ran Mopars that came out of that yard every week to race in the early to late 80s. What a time we had. Love watching your channel as it just brings back so many memories.... Mike from Upstate N.Y.
My hat's off to Circle Track Mopar guys
@@briansignorelli7090 thanks. Not to many of us Mopar circle trackers anymore at least at my local track. Glad to see someone appreciates us lol..
I'm impressed Uncle Tony knows how to make a carburetor so responsive....because 9 times out of 10 most "classic project weekend cruisers" don't run as well as they could, for many obvious reasons.
Seems like his recipe with the carb was "don't fuck with it" which works pretty well a lot of the time
@@RobertJeffersonBased the word carburetor is actually French for "don't mess with it" ;)
@@lonniecavenee6201 I'll be honest. I've never jetted a carb, or worked on an automobile carb. Just cleaning/rebuilding small engine carbs.
How to tune a carb:
Step one: Make sure it isn't completely worn out garbage, IE a carb from 1972 that's never been rebuilt
Step two: Don't fuck with it. No really, just don't fuck with it.
Step three: make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. Dear lord, the number of times I have heard "I put a new carb on and it runs rough, i think the jets are wrong" and there is a rubber line laying on top of the intake that goes to nothing....... yeah, just make sure there aren't any holes on the base of the carb or in the intake that are supposed to have a hose stuck on them.
Step four: ummm..... profit? No wait, do awesome burnouts, that's more fun.
Outside of the obvious, set the idle mix correctly and never screw with it. Dont screw with the secondary linkage
Cars, recipes, tater tots, low budget, 4 phrases I love Uncle Tony
like em loose too once they go tight they stay tight, engines that is,,
So true lol
Uncle Tony is the REAL DEAL! He's not one of those publisher keyboard warriors working in the industry who is going to preach theory in a written article.
Right about loose motors. We used to pull complete 455 buicks from the junk yards for $150ea. Almost always were 100,000 plus. Add the cam, intake, carb, nitrous. No bearings. No rings. They ran great for about 20 runs. When they let go, just go get another. Now people want $1000 for a core
tony and tony's garage is the living embodyment of the soul of hot rodding mopars and other cars as well and we are living it right now and it shall live on forever and forever, come on and be a part of it 🙂
It never fails. Everytime I watch a video of yours I get so excited that I go out to the garage just to tinker around. Love the content, knowledge and your enthusiasm. 👊
What a coincidence! I just got a photo of my uncle Tony from about 1940 when he was about 20 then your videos popped up. Being a Mopar fanatic since 1977 [I had to watch] when I got my first car(bought with my own money) a 68 Satellite B5 blue, 383, 4 speed, 292 Crower cam, headers, Ebrock intake, AFB etc. Shortly after I put 12.5 TRW, Milidon pan, adjustable D Connection rockers and push rods,Zoom clutch, Accel dual point, Weiand tunnel ram, 2 Holleys, Hooker fenderwells, Mr Gasket V gate etc. I had just bought a Dana 60 and sent it to Mark Williams Enterprises in Louisville Colorado for shortening to 44 inches with forged axles and large studs to go along with my 15 x 13 Centerlines and Firestone 500 slicks all this in high school then the bottom fell out when I found myself 18 and homeless after my parents divorce was final and I had to liquidate everything and put myself through architecture school driving a ratty Vega(yuck). Any way awesome work you do and I look forward to seeing more of it!
You can do almost the same with a SBC too. The best part of everyone going Gaga over a LS these days is all of the CHEAP small blocks that are floating around. I recently picked up a nearly new ProSystems carb setup for NOS for $100. I couldn't walk past the deal even though I had no use for it.
Plenty of small block Chevy engines made more power from the factory (100% production line stock form) than this 318 makes with all the mods. I've now doubt that the same can be said of the hotter 283 small block Chevys, not to mention many of the 327s.
This video is essentially meaningless without hard numbers (either chassis dyno video with posted results or a full drag strip run depicting ET and Trap Speed.
I'd be amazed if this car could out down more than 175 HP at the wheels or run anything better than an upper 15 second/83 MPH quarter.
Tony, you are the real deal.
Not many of us left.
Hey uncle tony, I've been watching you a while and I'm one of the "dreamers" you talk about. A couple months ago I actually got a job so I could buy a real man's car next summer. Thanks for the inspiration to get off my ass.
Actually glad to see someone respect and rebuild the 318. Had one in a 73 Road Runner back in 1975 when I was 18, and my brothers and I tweaked that engine. Stop light to stop light, I never lost!
The “lowly” 318 is often overlooked as a performance engine.
Not so. Back in the 60’s the 318 was the next step up from the base 273 that was the first step up from the 225 slant six.
Art Tafil True. But the 360 overshadowed it by the mid 70’s. Then with 360 crate motors, the 318 was left for Aunt Zelda to drive. 😁
@@raoulcruz4404 people just enjoy the aftermarket support of the 340 and 360 finding stuff for the 318 is a pain but with a little ingenuity and somethings most mechanics would advise against you can get the same power out of them
That is one thing that I really enjoy about your channel Tony, you make it clear that anyone can build an engine. Some of those channels are pumping so much money into their projects that it starts to get a bit intimidating. One of the reasons I was so pissed when they discontinued Popular Hot Rodding magazine and started sending me Hot Rod. I had Hot Rod for years and years but found PHR more valuable because it was full of tech, and things you could do yourself. HR is all sky is the limit budget stuff, no average joe stories any more.
Bawls out! Another great Tony Production. Keep them coming. This information is invaluable.
Glad to see people still showing 318s love
Thank you Uncle Tony. This is more or less what I’m gonna do to the 318 in my 72 Fury for sure. I’m impressed with how that engine puts out for being relatively stock and simple. Well done guys.
Dad bought a '72 Fury II with a 318. Those old motors would last forever.
Man , I Love that deep throaty sound of a MOPAR !! CAN’T BEAT IT !!!
Kudos to Lambchop and Tony on all the prep, I'm pretty certain that played a role in the turn out.
I'm with Tony all the way. I bought a '65 Valiant convertible 273 for $2,000 in L.A. back in '05.
Tore out the front suspension and replaced it with 70's Mopar knuckles and upper controls, offset bushings for radial tires, single pot slider discs, 340 torsion bars, koni shocks and then threw in a 8 1/4 rear end. Mostly recon'd junkyard parts. I then removed about a 100 lbs of bad bondo, and primed her.
The engine I followed what Tony did, all stock internals, added a Isky cam, spitfire headers, 302 heads with 3 angle grind, hardened valve seats and bronze guides, topped it with an Edelbrock manifold and 500 CFM edelbrock Carb.
In the interior I got a BMW 3 series interior for $300 added an Audi A4 center console with full gauges, and reconfigured the dash to fit a big tach and speedo.
I'm in this car cheap probably under $12,000 and it will certainly outlast me. I can roll it at 90 mph down the freeway with no hands on the wheel. Good for another 50 years I always say.
Just one question; what does bottle rocket idle at?
That's my dream car. 318 rocks.
The little engine that could.
trillrif axegrindor ...Yes. My true dream car is a 1965 Ford Fairlane (non 500), a one year only model. I owned one and should never have sold it. I would take one over a Ferrari any day of the week.
Who has seen major Payne. You will never look at that story again
My Brother had a nice 318 street racer build, he used a stock 318 short block with a MP Purple shaft .484"/284* (only change from stock on SB) with a set of 360 stock heads (stock valve/springs) no porting with an Edelbrock Torker intake and i think a 650 DP holley (cheap rebuild). this was put in a '77 aspen R/T with an 833 (not hemi splined) 4 speed w/stock autozone clutch and a B&M Vertigate Shifter (basically the Hurst Ram Rod shifter, for those who are old enough to remember them). all power went back to a 3.55 geared mopar 10 bolt (8.25") rear w/ traction bars and a pinion snubber.. As off the wall as the combo appears, it worked surprisingly good. BTW everything was spared from my dad, he was a major league pack rat and never threw anything away. Now the heads had weak valve springs so the cam floated at 6k RPM, but the car needed 5k RPM to launch. He used to street race in The Athens area, this was in the 1990's. The area was ruled by a Hemi Cuda the two cars behind him was a fox bodied mustang and an Impala (both tunnel rammed BB's). there were two types of racing streetlight and. back road (street outlaws style). my brother preferred streetlight (no excuses, wait for green). He beat the Impala (#3 car) with this car, nobody believed it was essentially a cam swapped 318. Yeah sure they saw the casting marks, but swore he had it sleeved. I helped him build it and can verify, it had an under 4" bore and stock stroke. That car was something else
Flashback to the early nineties when at least 4 high schoolers in my small town pilfered 318 drivetrains from junkyard station wagons and transplanted them into Dodge D50 mini-trucks. Zero to gearbound in 3 seconds. Wild times.
hahahha, in my little town it was 351W in a Ranger shortbox, and one crazy bastard put a 351 cleveland into a Bronco II. And all the yuppies in the 90's thought the explorers were unstable....hahahaha, that bronco had a wheelbase of like 3 feet I swear. they both went through those garbage ford 7.5 rears roughly 4k miles. Was a tad too early to find all the 8.8's in the junk yet.
Looking forward to trying out these tips on the 318 in my 66 Fury.
Thanks, UTG, for sharing your knowledge with us. 👍
Great advice as always I'd love to build a simple 318 like this myself one day would of course some help since I'm legally blind so I can't wait to see what this combination runs at the track
Everyone needs a uncle Tony.
I had to laugh…. The next video suggested by RUclips is a $2,500 budget 360 build on Horsepower TV. I saw the expensive bolt-on stuff in the thumbnail and said PASS. Uncle Tony's Garage is REAL building!
All those network channels are for the rich yuppies that wouldn't build their own anyway, they just want a parts list to hand to their shop. Those people with more money then brains are the reason a "new" small block with some goodies lists for $5K and up nowdays. It's why the ratrod scene has come back so hard, normal people don't have $11k to put into just the drivetrain of an old car to use all new stuff.
I seen that tv show episode too. They have more money than I do
We duplicated this build before I started flouring uncle Tony, pretty close to there build fund, except i already had and used silver light hyper pistons, little hotter summit cam and 202 J heads, 74 360 block 30 over, made about 340 HP.
I was introduced to the piston trick in the late 80’s by another mechanic in his 80’s. He handed me an old Mopar Performance book with a bunch of old info developed by the Ramchargers and forgotten by most people today. Used this on my Magnum series 360, did a port job on the heads, Thorley tri-y headers, M-1 intake, one of the bigger lift purple shaft cams from MP with roller lifters and rocker tips. Already been 100k on the engine and still super strong. Revs quicker than stock and surprises a lot of people thinking its old junk. Up til now using stock EFI everything, in process of upgrading to Mega Squirt with sequential coils.
360 Magnum is under rated. I had a 2001 ram, it was the off road edition so it had 4:10 locking rear end. Those rich boys in their shiny new Chevy LTZ's sure got butthurt when they couldn't keep up off the line with my old rusty 2nd gen dodge hahaha. They would pass me by at around 50-60 mph but that's the speed limit around here anyway. I miss that truck sometimes, sold it to my brother in law.
Take some foam or a old wet vac filter and rubber band it and or zip tie over the intake when your not at the track.
Panty hose
@@johnpassmore8176 Thats not a bad idea, but this eng's temps are likely to melt that.
@@Tech-NO-City pussy don't and they get hot.lol
I put a 1970 318 and 727 torqueflite from my father inlaws rusted out truck in a 1982 ram short bed miser pickup with a 3:91 83/4 posi rear stuffed a crane 68 340 automatic repop cam , 1980 trooper car 318 steel intake and thermoquad carb ,a mopar performance electronic ignition kit to replace the lean burn setup a set of black jack cheap headers with sonic turbo mufflers a carter high volume mechanical fuel pump stock converter and that little thing was so impressive whipped up on my cousin’s 360 dodge pick up easily I changed out the 3;91 it got real noisy to a 3:23 rear and showed my cousin 5000 rpm in high gear with a 27 “ tall tire which I believe was well over 120 mph it started hunting the road so I backed out of it the 318 is definitely one under appreciated little performer !!!!
Cool. Looking forward to shifter mods you were talking about because i just found one after to long of looking.
One step closer
Love the video. Just recently picked up a 97 Ram Van with the 5.2 Magnum. 260 thousand miles and even on the massive BF Goodrich street tires it still has the balls to break them loose and get sideways!
Nothing wrong with a loose motor, just keep some extra oil on ya cause it will consume it, at least in my case!
UTG That intro has a healthy sound!
I got lotsa hassle for my LA’s and Poly’s
Back in the 80’s .... made me love them even more , I’m in good company here.
Uncle Tony, I tell my other Uncles that YOU are my favorite Uncle. You've helped so much with my Cordoba and GTX, I hope I get to meet you one day for a fist bump and a Car Guy Hug!!!! Best Channel on RUclips!
Oval track guys run a looser engine for a reason . to be able to hammer on them . this is a perfect example of a everyday guys hotrod , not breaking the bank can use swap meet stuff and have fun.
Bottle Rocket series...I like it! Great vid, Ty. Mopar or No car!
'Tis, a wonderful thing!
Amazing stuff Tony. Thanks for sharing your recipe for some fast and cheap fun. Those Purple Hornies sound absolutely amazing, now I want some. See you tomorrow!
You should lift up the rear of the Hood by the windshield with some shims probably welded to the hinges so they don't go flying when you're going high speed but lift up the back of the hood so you got kind of like a hood scoop back there
We accomplished that by chopping out the rear bracing and opening the top of the firewall cowl. Zero chance of trapped air in there
Always Honest, Straightforward and to the point.. Thanks Boss Oi..
My 1971 Charger with a stock 2 bll that I used to have sounded a lot like your's... when I was driving it in the rain, lol, BAAAAAAAAaaaaa bAAAAAAAA. Couldn't kill that thing if you tried.
I agree. That Rocket burn-out should be the "musical" intro to all of your Bottle Rocket videos. Hell, use its as the musical intro for ALL of your videos.
Joe Sherman was flipping pistons many years ago, nice seeing someone remembered!
As though the engineers who originally designed the engines didn't know any better and were instead forcing production line workers to install pistons "the wrong way."
LOL
Piston flipping increases operating friction (rings to cylinder walls), increases engine wear and reduces fuel economy. Only on the rarest of occasions will it quantifiable improve engine output. And in the rare cases where it does, the other issues I've mentioned are still quite real.
@@peteshea8010 no shit. Flip pistons crack the skirt.
I absolutely cant wait to see what times this thing puts down. Real deal budget cars that work are the best.
When I was a kid my dad had a 67 Fury III with 318 never any problems .
My parents had a Dodge with a 383 with 220,000 before it started to lose power,make a slight rod knock etc..Then again my Dad really drove that car hard the last 40,000 miles ,burnouts,flooring it racing people and would kick Muscle Cars buts! Ford/GM cars many,many lost to the big C body Dodge!! He had a 65 Ford Galaxie with a 390 4bbl that was babied mostly by my Mom and it needed a rebuilt as #7 was low compression! Wasnt as quick as the 383 4bbl Dodge either! It was like the 383 using only 2 bbl-3bbl of its 4bbl,both were 4bbl,duel exhaust axle ratio as close as you could get!!
I have never seen any issues with a 318 and I have seen them run burning oil on low compression and the thing would still smoke the tires and you can get some good rpm out of them
Our Grandfather's and Fathers built good stuff....
I had the Sports Fury with 318. Lord I’d love to have that back.
Folks had a 67 Fury I w/318. Put well over 100,000. Last I heard it was circle track racing.
Man, sure wish I have you around right now for my 360 home build. I have so much cash into this engine and it's all sitting in the boxes still. Got a set of J and X heads that need valve guides. I also have 1 rod bearing that for some reason came out siezed? My issue is, I have no good shop around that I trust to do the work. So I'm now saving my Penny's to purchase a set of aluminum heads.
Man that pos sounds good shes definitely a screamer good job uncle tony if ever go 8 cylinders this would be the route i would go 👍👍👍👍👍
Back again, 2 years later tony is the smartest person I know of
The secret to this setup is the light fixture. Can we get the part number for that?
That long rod rev happy 318 is my favorite motor for building.
Compression does wonders, I just did a small port high compression motor and although only about 350 hp it's a very responsive and snappy motor.
Factory electronic ign with msd coil, small diameter long tube headers, underdrive crank pulley with a hi flow water pump and Howe aluminum radiator.
Comp 224°/ 230° @ .050 low lift hydraulic cam.
Pulls hard to valve float.
Fun street motor
Another great vid UT.
Here's this weeks tech tip folks;
Homemade GoJo,
Take an empty hand soap bottle with a "pumper" on the top, put vegetable oil in it (cheapest you can buy, don't make no difference), place it on your sink next to a pumper bottle of regular hand soap, just like with GoJo don't wet your hands, one pump veg oil, 3 pumps hand soap, rub all over your hands just like you would with GoJo, rinse with water (warm/hot works better like with GoJo).
Much cheaper than GoJo and it works just as well, don't bother trying to pre-mix it, it'll separate overnight then it won't work at all.
Duke Craig I just use starting fluid. Best hand cleaner in the world .. been doing it for years
Or two slices of pizza with pepperoni and a paper towel. Dinner is out of the way too.
@@bobm9509
Good idea, damn, you just made me hungry.
@@bentrishaleemartin926
Kind of expensive, the whole idea is it's cheap, regular GoJo costs less then that, besides when you reach for starter fluid when you need it it'll be gone.
Duke Craig guess I’ve never been so broke i couldn’t afford a can of starting fluid. And I buy it by the case I never run out. I use it all the time
Tony has a good handle on these early Mopars... He really knows quite a bit about the Slant -6's and the early LA engines .... A good guy to listen to...
Mopars... Damn Spell incorrect check!!!
Uncle T love this man! I have a 318 LA in my 1978 power wagon w 200 4x4 I had it decked and put 360 heads and cam. would I still be able to flip pistons?
Yup...but, you would have been better off porting the smaller heads. Compression loss with the bigger 360 chambers really hurts.
I have the old heads, and thanks a bunch for the reply, I love that little 318. I’m 39 and it’s easy to work on and very reliable. Wish they wouldn’t make things so electronic now days
Watching that first drive was soooo satisfying! Can't wait to see what it'll do at the track.
That motor runs great for 213°/226° @ 0.050"...i think it's the tight LSA, seems to really wake up a smaller cam.
What are the degrees your referring too ?
@@whatyoumakeofit6635
Uncle Tony mentioned the camshaft was a Hughes "whiplash" for 318ci and those are its specs.
The degrees tell you how long the valves are open intake/exhaust respectively; the bigger the number, the more aggressive the cam is and shifts the powerband to higher RPM...0.050" is lift at it was measured, it's an industry standard so you can compare cams from different manufacturers.
LSA is the "lobe separation angle", it describes the relationship of between the intake and exhaust lobes. All things being equal a "tighter" LSA (107° in this case) results in a more peaked torque curve and typically sounds more racy.
Picked up a 73 satellite sedan in extremely solid condition today. Its got a 318 and im really excited to get some power through that engine. Gonna be following this for a cheap and good time!!
Now. To do this with a 440. Yup
We did...it's in our 67 Charger.
Love the small block LA mopar. High cam location in block allows for huge crank strokes.
I wish he was my neighbor I would love to take in some of his knowledge in person
This engine build is entirely wrong. The stock heads fitted with the stock (tiny) valves are poor match for the relatively aggressive cam and single plane intake manifold. The carburetor is also too large.
A good "tight budget street build" would employ a dual plane intake, a a decent 550 cfm (or so) 4 barrel, otherwise stock heads but milled for a true 9.2 or so compression ratio, a proper 3 angle valve job and a real world, nicely matched cam kit like this:
www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-206-212-hydraulic-flat-cam-k-kit-for-chrysler-273-360.html
While it would still fall some 50 HP shy of a stock 1968 - 1971 340, such a build would produce something on the order of 205 SAE Net HP (compared to the 1971 318's 155 SAE Net) and make relatively good power from idle through 5,100 RPM or so. The total area "under the curve" would be far more respectable than the build featured in this video, while peak horsepower would be nearly identical.
Idle quality and fuel economy would also be much better.
@@peteshea8010 if it's so wrong, why does it work so well?... "if it's stupid, but works, is it really stupid"???
@@paulhhayward7121 We have no idea how "well" it works because there's no empirical data (e.g., dyno results, 1/4 mile trap speed) to tell us. All I see is a car that's making a lot of noise while making relatively little progress in forward motion.
@@peteshea8010 One of my favorite engines thru the experience of ownership is the Buick 425 Nailhead. Mine had the Rivera dual quad setup. Ran like a musclebound pitbull. I have read that the thinking was to utilise lift of the valves to aid flow with smallish valves with the Buick reputation for longevity remaining intact. So the likelihood of one or more burnt valves is not a big issue as long as the valves spend the time fully closed as needed. I'm not sure i would just dismiss the philosophy and having more cfm follows the theory that breathing will be aided by camshaft/rocker combo creating lift and duration beyond stock spec. It's thinking outside the box and one big reason dynos exist.
people were talking shit saying a 318 is too weak, “ls swap it” mopar is mopar the only thing going in the duster is a 340 or 318 im glad i saw this
Best feeling in the world you smoke some hot shit with there expensive car with the car grammy gave you from late 60 early 70
Chevy guy here but I recently bought a rust free and dent free 67 d100 step side for 400 bucks and I. Am definitely going to try this combination in this truck.thanks for the tips
If you don't mind me asking Tony, how high are you winding it too? Very impressive sounding 318, money only spent where needed. I like it!
It's out of heads and cam at 6000
318s are God's blessings to people who know budget but can get eventually better as you go 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
HA - "Hand valve job" -- HA - sorry to sound like a 'naughty schoolboy' with that comment. Have a nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
You're a Mopar fans dream come true.. seriously though, thanks for all of your tips.. Definitely my favorite channel now.! 👍👍
I have flashbacks of the 12.99 for $1299 article....
Yes! Super Stock and Drag Illustrated did that. Great article...
I love the build and the lil details to what you did to it , it sounds so awesome . We need more burnouts . Cheers
Damn that's cool 👌
I’ve loved watching this build, even scraping the underside with a scraper, of course I wasn’t the one down there doing the work. 👍👍☮️
Frankenbeast !!
Exactly!
Can't wait to see what this thing does at the track! Best part is this is only the beginning!