Thank you for the video! I have a disintegrating fiber washer on my pan now, and got the same "wonderful" assortment of gaskets you display, with the exception of the dual-material gasket, which I'd stay away from anyway, simply because I cannot imagine the two materials wouldn't react to stress differently and then tear apart from each other. I'm going with the copper crush washer, and the reason is, I have seen old refrigerators and appliances that used these types of washers exclusively, and after many decades of service, they aren't leaking. I might be old-fashioned, but I think that sometimes the old methods were the best methods.
Thanks Quentyn73 for a very nice short and sweet summary of the different types of washers you have experience with. I found your video clear and to the point. I am having a leak issue with a new drain pan that came with a solid copper 12mm washer, keeps dripping even with high torque (30+ ft. lbs) applied to the plug. I was considering trying one of the blue nylon ribbed washers as I had read multiple reports of excellent results replacing the copper washer with the nylon and applying only medium torque. Your video confirmed that the nylon washers work well and for the price of a washer I am going to give it a shot. Best regards!
Used a nylon washer, the blue one, for close to 6 months and 5000 miles of usage, mostly in the winter. When I removed the drain plug, I noticed that the washer seemed intact, but was very brittle. Obviously it shrunk significantly, because the drain plug came off almost without any resistance. I could've unscrew it by hand. Trying to get it off, it crumbled to pieces. My personal advice is - avoid the nylon at all costs. I used the composite before, the red one and it is ok, it retains some flexibility and does not shrink. Maybe the best is copper, then aluminum, then all the rest...
As I understand this, it is because nylon (and fiber) washers do not compress, or atleast much less than copper, then there is much less tension and drain plug loosens with less torqe (not good in my opinion, drain plug on outboad gear box cam off so easy it makes me almost worry about it coming loose by it self).
I had same experience trying the nylon washer on my Honda's plug. I was stunned that I could remove the plug by hand. Glad I didn't let the oil go any longer. Never using nylon again. Yesterday when I changed it made sure it was aluminum washer
Somehow rock Auto made me eat my thumbs up. They said fiber but ended up with 2 clear nylon ones. Arrrrghhhhhhh. Grrrrrrr. Only out $1.10 and I know not to use them for oil. The original Toyota black Bakelite ones or whatever fiber is King. Next to Nissan copper.
@@marshmower Thanks for watching! It's not the end of the world. I used those nylon washers before. They work but become crumbly and crack after 6 months and disintegrate in an year. You're better off just getting the stock aluminum washers from Walmart - the crumple and fill nicely and are dirt cheap. Copper are good but not too many stores carry them. Amazon also has aluminum washers with felt sides, which are nice - they don't stick and can be removed easily.
Got a kit that came with the rubber center ones but they aren’t brass, magnets like them, for mine; it really relies on that rubber to seal since the steel isn’t going to crush
The last one is typically used on high pressure hydraulic systems and is extremely good. It was designed that way to not only create a positive high temperature seal, but the steel also acts as a crush washer that creates it's own seal!... As good as they are, they are not reusable. Once removed, they need to be thrown out and replaced each time!
Ziji! All of them are really designed to be one time use. It's always always best to change them every time although I have and you can sometimes get away with using the standard aluminum kinds a few times. But they're $0.50 so don't do it cause it's not worth the trouble of trying to drain your clean oil and getting it back into the engine clean. I've used the blue nylon and aluminum ones and never really had problems unless reusing the aluminum because I forgot to get and didn't have another around. Nylon work great so far on my ATV. I did notice you have to be careful when you tighten the nylon cause they don't seem to hold up to as much torque and can start squashing out so I just tighten them until they're starting to squash out a good bit and then quit. Not sure if that's the correct way but it hasn't leaked. And no nylon won't melt under the engines operating temperature so don't worry there. Nylon is what spatulas are made of and a skillet gets way way hotter than you're oil pan.
True, I re-used the copper/rubber seal thincking it was better than the new copper only one. First time I ever do that : Re-use, and sure enough 1.5 year latter I've got a noticable leak, which was probably there from day one but very tiny at the time.
having said that MOSTLY it IS overkill to replace every single time ....yes good insurance but 99.999% of the time you can get away with not changing newer crush washers/gaskets ....like so many things that are technically "not right" yet honestly pretty safe....good maintenance is based on MAJOR overkill .....Especially for particularly special vehicles you plan to keep long term....on the other hand? There are high mileage junkers we tend to not pamper by "doing it up right" ....whatever might keep the old beast chugging another 5k miles? IF cheap enough/easy enough? ....then?....well then perhaps?...maybe LOL
Never had an issue with the rubber getting 'eaten' or disintegrating. Don't Overtorque your damn drain plugs and you won't have issues with that 'high end washer' which costs about the same as all the other washers. I've used them for Years.
I worked for a finish carpentry company and one of the younger guys accompanied the general foreman to a hardware store and when they tried to charge him 30 cents for a washer he dropped his washers on the counter and told him he will drill holes in quarters before he paid 30 cents for their washers
I have to think the one with the rubber (PLASTIC) insert has to have medium temp resistance just like the rubber washer on your filter...so I question all the info....
Thanks for the vid!. I totally agree with the rubberized insert on being a bad choice. I wondered if the torque needed to be so light that crushing it was the problem. Kind of hard not to put at least a little torque on such an important part of a vibrating machine. The last plastic one has the circular rings which will crush to conform which is good. I would only use once though. Aluminum and copper are about the same in hardness depending on which alloy if any. Copper is typically more malleable and workable. The fiber one is probably micarta linen phenolic. Never tried but interesting material in machine shops and makes sense for this. Different nylons are probably safe but I only stick to one use for any considering cost.
I don’t know why this video has so many dislikes. You give so much info on each, warn against the “fancy” one. Not one of them may be the best for all, yes you have to do some thinking for yourself. For those unsure of what to use, safest would be copper or nylon. Copper is soft and will squish to be flush, nylon basically does the same thing, requiring less force to crank down on, but may also be a little more frail. Copper may also get softer under heat, so make sure you check it from time to time
I'm sorry, but I've used the washer with the rubber inserts for years on cars in my shop and never once had any of the issues you've mentioned. They are easily one of the best choices.
@@liveandletlive2894 yes the two surfaces just have to be flush. you would need to sand each side of the coin. You could resand an old washer flat so it will conform to a new surface again.
I have a leak situated by sump plug. I can't tell if the surface of the sump has changed shape or if the washer isn't sealing properly. Any suggestions as to which washer might be suitable to try. As I say I just wish to try and start with a decent washer that will flex enough to stop oil leaking between pan and plug. Ty in advance.
I'd try with aluminum; it is soft and fills any small gaps pretty well. The version with the rubber insert may also work for you. Some people also successfully use teflon tape for pluming on the thread, as long as you make sure it doesn't get inside the pan.
I dont trust any plastic or rubber washer on the oil drain plug because of the temperature difference (even though nylon melting temp is more than twice of the engine oil temp), i fear the internal stress. Fiber ones ive never seen for oil drain plug (only for the hot water pipes for central heating...and those disintegrate when old) That leaves Cu and Al, ive only used copper never thought of aluminium but now that you mention it makes sense because they are both soft metals and will bend, twist, extrude into the gaps between the screw and oil pan (thats one reason should change it everytime you open it ) You can reuse 2nd maybe 3rd time if you turn it to the other side each time but the greaves that form into it are dictated by the steel from the oil pan and screw so you wont get away forever. So change it!
Hi, silly question but are the washers one size fit all? How would I know if it will fit/compatible with my oil drain plug? I have a 2003 toyota highlander.
@@leediana3179 just look up online ...put your vehicle inamazonebay parts house etc and search compatible parts ...likely be from 12mm to 16mm ....mine all seem to be 14 at the moment appears yours is the smaller 12 mm according to one ebay seller ....buy a "lot" of them rather than one at a time ....toss em in the glove box and always have a new one ready !
Nylon crush washers will always be the best. I buy a big pack and just replace every oil change. Metal washers will not seal as good as a nylon crush washer. I will say that metal washers are fine and if torqued correctly should not leak as well. The Nylon is easier on the oil pan and you will be less likely to strip the pan, you can see the washer compress.
@@RamBam84I never used nylon before, and am thinking about using it since some guy cross threaded my mom's drain plug, and he oversized the bolt with a bigger size which is now M14*1.5. the previous bolt was M12*1.5. but now it leaks from the washer. I've tried many different bolts, copper crush washer thickness still didn't work. Soo I've decided now get a bigger size head went from a 13mm head size to a 16mm head size with the same M14*1.5 bolt and was thinking about using the nylon washer, but I don't know how long nylon washer last? Will they hold up for 8000 km at a time? Or would they become brittle by 4-5000km?
It's also called a "Bonded Seal" washer - 2-part construction consisting of a structural metal ring and an interference fit NBR rubber seal to ensure proper centering. When compressed, they create a pressure tight seal. Commonly installed in high pressure hydraulic applications, these gaskets can be used in static sealing connections including drain plugs.
I used the same one for 4 years and about 12 oil changes on one of my cars. Just keep an eye on it or spend the little money and buy a new one from the dealership or if you feel lucky buy a multi pack of the correct size from a local parts store.
pospc2 bought three from auto zone for like 5 bucks I think. Kind of expensive considering their pretty much pennies lol I’ll hit up my local dealership and see what they’ll charge me but damn 4 years with the same washer that’s cool I feel more comfortable about mine being there for almost a year now. What type of car is it that you have?
@@raftika1 I left mine on for so long it looked nothing like it was supposed to. I was too lazy to hit the dealership.i did it that experiment on my infiniti G35. That was before the rebuild.now I change it frequently. My VW GTI I change every 2-3 times. My Lexus gets changed every time because we'll i came across a good price on them and have a lot. A little tip. If you order from Rock Auto and they have the washers and they ship from the same location as the other part(s) buy a bunch of them. They are usually around 20cents each.
Honestly everyone says replace it either every oil change, or every other oil change. But I say, only replace it when you see it damaged, or once it starts to leak.
This is a case of overthinking. A good old regular crush washer does the job just fine even if reused. If it don't leak after an oil change, it won't leak.
Not necessarily.. if they are used in hydraulic break or clutch systems you will get Leaks and air into your system. Even with an oil change.. just because it doesn’t leak after an oil change doesn’t mean it is gonna hold up with the car running and driving. A lot more pressure in the oil pan when car is driving.. it’s worth replacing a 2$ washer and not a motor..
That's what I use too. Aluminum is good and most importantly - reusable for a time or two. Copper is harder to squash and fill in those gaps, but on the flip side it expands and contracts better with the steel.
@@Quentyn73 after 8 years of purchase of my bike, I have to change my drain 🔩 bolt 17 to 19 no. Because of leakage, at that time they give me a cotton or rubber washer (confuse of both of them, actually I forgot) that washer work well until for 9 months, & then they gave me a copper washer & worked for 2 years, you think about 9 months or 2 years or 8 years, huge difference between of them, aluminium washer is GOAT.
Normally motorcycles run hotter. I've always used a coper crush washer on mine, until I switched to the generic type sold everywhere - aluminum with thin felt cover.
I don't think so, they are nylon, they never stick, insulate well, but with the heat-cold cycles can become brittle and develop a crack and gradually come loose in pieces. This is one washer you don't want to use if you don't plan changing oil after 5k miles.
If the package says Dorman, Run! Made to look like the correct oil washer yet always ends in heartache. My 88'toy p/u has the original fiber washer and it's a question whether the dorman version replacement is more likely to fail. All of those types of washers work great when they are original equipment on the corresponding vehicle. Aftermarket versions are constructed without understanding or concern for material science and functionality of the original... In something so critical as this part, spend the extra $5 at the dealership and replace it with a factory part. Or goober some RTV on there and roll :)
I disagree, but if u use a dorman crush washer, id say, you need to change it out every single time as they tend to somehow rust or harbor rust even though its supposedly aluminum? So they work, i never had one leak, byt do stay away from buying them from bulk suppliers that tend to use a brands name, however, they're not actually made by that brand and just claim to be said washer. Ive found most people dont even know what way to orient a crush washer and also, you dont need to keep cranking on it a s if the purpose is to mke it completely flat, they'd just sell you a flat washer. So it's meant to fill any small unevenness and fully seal the surface. So with a crush washer dont over tighten, that ur enemy with those
@Joe Brone no onr ever torques an oil drain bolt to spec, just an fyi. I know ur gonna say u do, thats great. There is not 1 lube shop or dealer thats doing, maybe a lambo dealer or super high end, but i even doubt that. Most people (that regularly use a wrnech) know what 30 lbs feels like give or take a little.
@Joe Brone I'll be honest i dont have a technical favorite. Id personally say, if it calls for copper. Than absolutely use it. The only plig that called for copper in my tacoma was 1 of the diff plugs idr which potentially even the tranfer case but idr. So they got exactly what it called for. As for the oil plug, if for some reason it calls for something specific use it obv, if not, u can always experiment with what u like. Ive used the nylon washers with good success, dont remember using the rubber ones, although if they are high quality id suppose they are like the nylon. The standard aluminum crush washers are fine, its just a matter of changing them out every change. Do you absolutely need to, ofcourse not. Its piece of mind imo. Ive never had one leak changing them every time. Also, id imagine its possible to gwt away with multiple changes with the same nylon or rubber gasket but like u say, to each their own. I just very much prefer them to be changed and if ur going to do it everytime, you can cheaply do it with aluminum crush washers. For some reason the ones that advanced sells, for me anyway, never leak, but absolutely corrode. N i drive mt car often n change the oil more frequently than most. I drive about 40 miles 1 way and im changing my oil about every 2 months it seems.
@joebrone5908torque it, it's only 18-30ft lbs. Usually 2 finger on the ratchet does the trick every single time, you get the right tightness and feel for the bolt.
I tried the nylon washer, it didn’t work. I torqued it down to spec and it leaked. So I tightened it a little more and it like stretched out and still leaked.
@@digi3218 hey man, I just went with a regular aluminum one that had rubber on both sides on my Kawasaki Ninja and Volvo S60. Different sizes of course. I got them both from Orrielys auto parts and they don’t leak at all.
Thank you Quentyn73, you've pushed me over the edge...I am now definitely committing suicide...I don't want to have to ever again take a stab in the dark and select a washer that actually works. Quentyn73, you were my last hope...a true professional with a solid scientific analysis of washerdom...totally failed me and left me completely desperate!!
Thanks so much for ur prompt reply. One more quick question: do u get it at any particular part store, or the dealer? (I will be using it on a toyota). Thanks again
What amazes me is how many times a washer CAN be reused without failure ...probably not a good idea but I confess for decades I did not know any better ...I almost never replaced them unless physically damaged .... just saying ...IF you lack one and have dumped your oil already? Statistically you will be fine reusing old one ...think of a new one as extra low cost insurance ...overkill even
Хобби
Thank you for the video! I have a disintegrating fiber washer on my pan now, and got the same "wonderful" assortment of gaskets you display, with the exception of the dual-material gasket, which I'd stay away from anyway, simply because I cannot imagine the two materials wouldn't react to stress differently and then tear apart from each other.
I'm going with the copper crush washer, and the reason is, I have seen old refrigerators and appliances that used these types of washers exclusively, and after many decades of service, they aren't leaking. I might be old-fashioned, but I think that sometimes the old methods were the best methods.
ols school cooper you cant go wrong with old tech. cheers
Thanks Quentyn73 for a very nice short and sweet summary of the different types of washers you have experience with. I found your video clear and to the point. I am having a leak issue with a new drain pan that came with a solid copper 12mm washer, keeps dripping even with high torque (30+ ft. lbs) applied to the plug. I was considering trying one of the blue nylon ribbed washers as I had read multiple reports of excellent results replacing the copper washer with the nylon and applying only medium torque. Your video confirmed that the nylon washers work well and for the price of a washer I am going to give it a shot. Best regards!
How’d the nylon washer work out for you?
Very usefull and didatical video, Quentyn; I use copper and aluminum, they are soft and reliable;Thks for sharing, oscar
So, after 4 minutes and 40 seconds of listening, I still don't know which is "the best"
LOL, its not good video
J. Wilson It was very sketchy and you had to catch it LOL but he prefers copper, then aluminum washers.
old school cooper, you can reused lots of times...
@@lew708 thank u, I missed it.
@@pedromesquita2780 c
Thank you sir for posting this video! You answered my question.
My oil pan plug has a factory rubber o-ring and ive never had a problem nor replaced it. It looks like new. The car is 20 years old.
Used a nylon washer, the blue one, for close to 6 months and 5000 miles of usage, mostly in the winter. When I removed the drain plug, I noticed that the washer seemed intact, but was very brittle. Obviously it shrunk significantly, because the drain plug came off almost without any resistance. I could've unscrew it by hand. Trying to get it off, it crumbled to pieces. My personal advice is - avoid the nylon at all costs. I used the composite before, the red one and it is ok, it retains some flexibility and does not shrink. Maybe the best is copper, then aluminum, then all the rest...
As I understand this, it is because nylon (and fiber) washers do not compress, or atleast much less than copper, then there is much less tension and drain plug loosens with less torqe (not good in my opinion, drain plug on outboad gear box cam off so easy it makes me almost worry about it coming loose by it self).
I had same experience trying the nylon washer on my Honda's plug. I was stunned that I could remove the plug by hand. Glad I didn't let the oil go any longer. Never using nylon again. Yesterday when I changed it made sure it was aluminum washer
Somehow rock Auto made me eat my thumbs up. They said fiber but ended up with 2 clear nylon ones. Arrrrghhhhhhh. Grrrrrrr. Only out $1.10 and I know not to use them for oil. The original Toyota black Bakelite ones or whatever fiber is King. Next to Nissan copper.
@@marshmower Thanks for watching! It's not the end of the world. I used those nylon washers before. They work but become crumbly and crack after 6 months and disintegrate in an year. You're better off just getting the stock aluminum washers from Walmart - the crumple and fill nicely and are dirt cheap. Copper are good but not too many stores carry them. Amazon also has aluminum washers with felt sides, which are nice - they don't stick and can be removed easily.
Got a kit that came with the rubber center ones but they aren’t brass, magnets like them, for mine; it really relies on that rubber to seal since the steel isn’t going to crush
I use and reuse nylon crush washers. They work fine by me...
So which one is best ??
I think leather washers should work.Just make them from a solid leather cowhide belt. I see some else stated this,lol.
i used oring +washer type fore my pulsar 220cc for long time. works good . i tried aluminuim and has leakage but oring washer stops oil draining
They're not hollow..
I'm pretty sure they are just made of soft copper and deform easily..
Could i use an O’ring for the drain plug or it would melt??
The copper crush washer is not hollow. It is soft copper (annealed). It squishes when you tighten the bolt
Not this one. This is rolled copper
The last one is typically used on high pressure hydraulic systems and is extremely good. It was designed that way to not only create a positive high temperature seal, but the steel also acts as a crush washer that creates it's own seal!... As good as they are, they are not reusable. Once removed, they need to be thrown out and replaced each time!
Lisa b are you talking about the fiber one?
Ziji! All of them are really designed to be one time use. It's always always best to change them every time although I have and you can sometimes get away with using the standard aluminum kinds a few times. But they're $0.50 so don't do it cause it's not worth the trouble of trying to drain your clean oil and getting it back into the engine clean. I've used the blue nylon and aluminum ones and never really had problems unless reusing the aluminum because I forgot to get and didn't have another around. Nylon work great so far on my ATV. I did notice you have to be careful when you tighten the nylon cause they don't seem to hold up to as much torque and can start squashing out so I just tighten them until they're starting to squash out a good bit and then quit. Not sure if that's the correct way but it hasn't leaked. And no nylon won't melt under the engines operating temperature so don't worry there. Nylon is what spatulas are made of and a skillet gets way way hotter than you're oil pan.
True, I re-used the copper/rubber seal thincking it was better than the new copper only one. First time I ever do that : Re-use, and sure enough 1.5 year latter I've got a noticable leak, which was probably there from day one but very tiny at the time.
having said that MOSTLY it IS overkill to replace every single time ....yes good insurance but 99.999% of the time you can get away with not changing newer crush washers/gaskets ....like so many things that are technically "not right" yet honestly pretty safe....good maintenance is based on MAJOR overkill .....Especially for particularly special vehicles you plan to keep long term....on the other hand? There are high mileage junkers we tend to not pamper by "doing it up right" ....whatever might keep the old beast chugging another 5k miles? IF cheap enough/easy enough? ....then?....well then perhaps?...maybe LOL
Never had an issue with the rubber getting 'eaten' or disintegrating. Don't Overtorque your damn drain plugs and you won't have issues with that 'high end washer' which costs about the same as all the other washers. I've used them for Years.
I worked for a finish carpentry company and one of the younger guys accompanied the general foreman to a hardware store and when they tried to charge him 30 cents for a washer he dropped his washers on the counter and told him he will drill holes in quarters before he paid 30 cents for their washers
I have to think the one with the rubber (PLASTIC) insert has to have medium temp resistance just like the rubber washer on your filter...so I question all the info....
Thanks for the vid!. I totally agree with the rubberized insert on being a bad choice. I wondered if the torque needed to be so light that crushing it was the problem. Kind of hard not to put at least a little torque on such an important part of a vibrating machine. The last plastic one has the circular rings which will crush to conform which is good. I would only use once though. Aluminum and copper are about the same in hardness depending on which alloy if any. Copper is typically more malleable and workable. The fiber one is probably micarta linen phenolic. Never tried but interesting material in machine shops and makes sense for this. Different nylons are probably safe but I only stick to one use for any considering cost.
I'd go with soft metals.
I don’t know why this video has so many dislikes. You give so much info on each, warn against the “fancy” one. Not one of them may be the best for all, yes you have to do some thinking for yourself.
For those unsure of what to use, safest would be copper or nylon. Copper is soft and will squish to be flush, nylon basically does the same thing, requiring less force to crank down on, but may also be a little more frail. Copper may also get softer under heat, so make sure you check it from time to time
I don't think it matters which one you use as long as it works with your drain plug and you change it at every oil change.
I'm sorry, but I've used the washer with the rubber inserts for years on cars in my shop and never once had any of the issues you've mentioned. They are easily one of the best choices.
I just drill out a penny! Old farmers trick....
Thanks very helpful!
Does that actually work?
@@liveandletlive2894 yes the two surfaces just have to be flush. you would need to sand each side of the coin. You could resand an old washer flat so it will conform to a new surface again.
@@screamfingers think I'll just go with a rubber 1 as my 03 civic is leaking oil
Too small.
i heard that leather works best for an oil drain plug washer
Wouldn't the leather disintegrate over team with the heat, and plug up the oil filter?
paper towel is even better
Think the copper one is the best
I think aluminium is the best. Cheaper than copper, can be reused, and doesnt leak :)
AwesomenessIskey yea aluminum can be reused sometimes but I wouldn't. Not worth all the trouble it causes if it does leak. They're real cheap anyway.
I have a leak situated by sump plug. I can't tell if the surface of the sump has changed shape or if the washer isn't sealing properly. Any suggestions as to which washer might be suitable to try. As I say I just wish to try and start with a decent washer that will flex enough to stop oil leaking between pan and plug. Ty in advance.
I'd try with aluminum; it is soft and fills any small gaps pretty well. The version with the rubber insert may also work for you. Some people also successfully use teflon tape for pluming on the thread, as long as you make sure it doesn't get inside the pan.
I dont trust any plastic or rubber washer on the oil drain plug because of the temperature difference (even though nylon melting temp is more than twice of the engine oil temp), i fear the internal stress.
Fiber ones ive never seen for oil drain plug (only for the hot water pipes for central heating...and those disintegrate when old)
That leaves Cu and Al, ive only used copper never thought of aluminium but now that you mention it makes sense because they are both soft metals and will bend, twist, extrude into the gaps between the screw and oil pan (thats one reason should change it everytime you open it )
You can reuse 2nd maybe 3rd time if you turn it to the other side each time but the greaves that form into it are dictated by the steel from the oil pan and screw so you wont get away forever.
So change it!
fiber washers come with Fumoto oil drain valves. After 14 years in my car, it finally started to leak through the fiber washer.
Hi, silly question but are the washers one size fit all? How would I know if it will fit/compatible with my oil drain plug? I have a 2003 toyota highlander.
@@leediana3179 Yes, many are. Inner diameter is roughly 1/2 inch.
2003 Toyota should be the same.
@@Zeppelinlv2007 Awesome, thank you so much for responding!
@@leediana3179 just look up online ...put your vehicle inamazonebay parts house etc and search compatible parts ...likely be from 12mm to 16mm ....mine all seem to be 14 at the moment appears yours is the smaller 12 mm according to one ebay seller ....buy a "lot" of them rather than one at a time ....toss em in the glove box and always have a new one ready !
Nylon crush washers will always be the best. I buy a big pack and just replace every oil change. Metal washers will not seal as good as a nylon crush washer. I will say that metal washers are fine and if torqued correctly should not leak as well. The Nylon is easier on the oil pan and you will be less likely to strip the pan, you can see the washer compress.
I didn't like mine. Taking them off during an oil change, I saw they have become hard and brittle.
I agree. The blue nylon washer seals better on my vehicle. The aluminum always has a tiny amount of seepage.
@@RamBam84I never used nylon before, and am thinking about using it since some guy cross threaded my mom's drain plug, and he oversized the bolt with a bigger size which is now M14*1.5. the previous bolt was M12*1.5. but now it leaks from the washer.
I've tried many different bolts, copper crush washer thickness still didn't work.
Soo I've decided now get a bigger size head went from a 13mm head size to a 16mm head size with the same M14*1.5 bolt and was thinking about using the nylon washer, but I don't know how long nylon washer last? Will they hold up for 8000 km at a time? Or would they become brittle by 4-5000km?
@@j.rjunior5584 try it out. Won't know until you try. You can always replace the oil pan if it doesn't stop leaking
the one with the rubber is called a dowty washer and they are the best you can buy for oil and the rubber does not break up
It's also called a "Bonded Seal" washer - 2-part construction consisting of a structural metal ring and an interference fit NBR rubber seal to ensure proper centering. When compressed, they create a pressure tight seal. Commonly installed in high pressure hydraulic applications, these gaskets can be used in static sealing connections including drain plugs.
How often should you replace the copper washers? I have been using the same one for about 3 oil changes and no leaks yet
I used the same one for 4 years and about 12 oil changes on one of my cars. Just keep an eye on it or spend the little money and buy a new one from the dealership or if you feel lucky buy a multi pack of the correct size from a local parts store.
pospc2 bought three from auto zone for like 5 bucks I think. Kind of expensive considering their pretty much pennies lol I’ll hit up my local dealership and see what they’ll charge me but damn 4 years with the same washer that’s cool I feel more comfortable about mine being there for almost a year now. What type of car is it that you have?
@@raftika1 I left mine on for so long it looked nothing like it was supposed to. I was too lazy to hit the dealership.i did it that experiment on my infiniti G35. That was before the rebuild.now I change it frequently.
My VW GTI I change every 2-3 times. My Lexus gets changed every time because we'll i came across a good price on them and have a lot.
A little tip. If you order from Rock Auto and they have the washers and they ship from the same location as the other part(s) buy a bunch of them. They are usually around 20cents each.
Honestly everyone says replace it either every oil change, or every other oil change.
But I say, only replace it when you see it damaged, or once it starts to leak.
I have no luck with the metal washers, seem to leak
Did you try a thread sealant. I use one made by AGS on every oil change and I don't have any leak of oil.
Christian M. I have not but thank you for the suggestion
This is a case of overthinking. A good old regular crush washer does the job just fine even if reused. If it don't leak after an oil change, it won't leak.
Not necessarily.. if they are used in hydraulic break or clutch systems you will get
Leaks and air into your system. Even with an oil change.. just because it doesn’t leak after an oil change doesn’t mean it is gonna hold up with the car running and driving. A lot more pressure in the oil pan when car is driving.. it’s worth replacing a 2$ washer and not a motor..
@@Turtlefarm HAHAHAHAHA! "Oil pressure in the oil pan". You win dumbest comment of the day. Congrats.
For 14mm or 1/2" Diameter Bolts, a slice of 1/2" HeaterHose works as a Drain Plug washer.
Thanks for the tip, but I'd rather be sure I won't leak. So I'm gonna go with a legit washer
I think aluminium washer is best, I tried copper washer & got 2 years service time.
That's what I use too. Aluminum is good and most importantly - reusable for a time or two. Copper is harder to squash and fill in those gaps, but on the flip side it expands and contracts better with the steel.
@@Quentyn73 after 8 years of purchase of my bike, I have to change my drain 🔩 bolt 17 to 19 no. Because of leakage, at that time they give me a cotton or rubber washer (confuse of both of them, actually I forgot) that washer work well until for 9 months, & then they gave me a copper washer & worked for 2 years, you think about 9 months or 2 years or 8 years, huge difference between of them, aluminium washer is GOAT.
Use whichever, replace it with new, at every oil change, no big deal.
the blue plastic one, ive tried on my motorcycle and it melted... leaks were present.
Normally motorcycles run hotter. I've always used a coper crush washer on mine, until I switched to the generic type sold everywhere - aluminum with thin felt cover.
Don't think those washers will disintegrate - that's not even butyl - it's very tough material.
the color blue if it is recommended or not
I don't think so, they are nylon, they never stick, insulate well, but with the heat-cold cycles can become brittle and develop a crack and gradually come loose in pieces. This is one washer you don't want to use if you don't plan changing oil after 5k miles.
@@Quentyn73 thanks for the information
I like copper the best and they last many, many oil changes.
If the package says Dorman, Run! Made to look like the correct oil washer yet always ends in heartache. My 88'toy p/u has the original fiber washer and it's a question whether the dorman version replacement is more likely to fail. All of those types of washers work great when they are original equipment on the corresponding vehicle. Aftermarket versions are constructed without understanding or concern for material science and functionality of the original... In something so critical as this part, spend the extra $5 at the dealership and replace it with a factory part. Or goober some RTV on there and roll :)
I disagree, but if u use a dorman crush washer, id say, you need to change it out every single time as they tend to somehow rust or harbor rust even though its supposedly aluminum?
So they work, i never had one leak, byt do stay away from buying them from bulk suppliers that tend to use a brands name, however, they're not actually made by that brand and just claim to be said washer.
Ive found most people dont even know what way to orient a crush washer and also, you dont need to keep cranking on it a s if the purpose is to mke it completely flat, they'd just sell you a flat washer. So it's meant to fill any small unevenness and fully seal the surface.
So with a crush washer dont over tighten, that ur enemy with those
@Joe Brone no onr ever torques an oil drain bolt to spec, just an fyi.
I know ur gonna say u do, thats great.
There is not 1 lube shop or dealer thats doing, maybe a lambo dealer or super high end, but i even doubt that.
Most people (that regularly use a wrnech) know what 30 lbs feels like give or take a little.
@Joe Brone I'll be honest i dont have a technical favorite.
Id personally say, if it calls for copper. Than absolutely use it.
The only plig that called for copper in my tacoma was 1 of the diff plugs idr which potentially even the tranfer case but idr.
So they got exactly what it called for.
As for the oil plug, if for some reason it calls for something specific use it obv, if not, u can always experiment with what u like.
Ive used the nylon washers with good success, dont remember using the rubber ones, although if they are high quality id suppose they are like the nylon.
The standard aluminum crush washers are fine, its just a matter of changing them out every change. Do you absolutely need to, ofcourse not. Its piece of mind imo.
Ive never had one leak changing them every time.
Also, id imagine its possible to gwt away with multiple changes with the same nylon or rubber gasket but like u say, to each their own. I just very much prefer them to be changed and if ur going to do it everytime, you can cheaply do it with aluminum crush washers. For some reason the ones that advanced sells, for me anyway, never leak, but absolutely corrode. N i drive mt car often n change the oil more frequently than most.
I drive about 40 miles 1 way and im changing my oil about every 2 months it seems.
I forgot about RTV?
If it still leaks, I'm definitely using RTV.
@joebrone5908torque it, it's only 18-30ft lbs.
Usually 2 finger on the ratchet does the trick every single time, you get the right tightness and feel for the bolt.
In summary go with aluminum or copper washers. Most abundant and least chance to leak
I tried the nylon washer, it didn’t work. I torqued it down to spec and it leaked. So I tightened it a little more and it like stretched out and still leaked.
What did you end up going with? Thanks
@@digi3218 hey man, I just went with a regular aluminum one that had rubber on both sides on my Kawasaki Ninja and Volvo S60. Different sizes of course. I got them both from Orrielys auto parts and they don’t leak at all.
@@digi3218 I forgot the brands through, sorry man.
@@tylerkimdura6690 Thanks might give those a try.
@@digi3218 Yes Sir.
How about a hose washer. Lol so far mines is holding with a dumb hose washer
Yeah, those are not good, they are not oil and heat resistant.
Thank you Quentyn73, you've pushed me over the edge...I am now definitely committing suicide...I don't want to have to ever again take a stab in the dark and select a washer that actually works. Quentyn73, you were my last hope...a true professional with a solid scientific analysis of washerdom...totally failed me and left me completely desperate!!
Did you take your pill this morning?
@@Quentyn73 I need a pill?? I thought I just needed a washer! Does a pill work as well as a washer...please help!!
@@sergeilutzak2479 Dude, I don't know what you need, but certainly I don't have it for you. See ya!
The best is the OEM. Don't play with washers.
+~+~+~+~+ Good video. Thanks for posting. ~+~+~+~+~+
Those rubber / metal washers are junk. Good theory but do not hold up to heat and disintegrate.
AboutMy FathersBusiness can u pls let me know which gasket are u using? I want to use a good one also on my new car. Thanks so much! Andrew
Andrew atm; I'm using the blue one he shows first in the vid. They seem to hold up the best; and ive used them all.
Thanks so much for ur prompt reply. One more quick question: do u get it at any particular part store, or the dealer? (I will be using it on a toyota). Thanks again
Andrew atm Napa sells those blue ones. I just got one there
BUY AN ECOPLUG AND CALL IT A DAY
PRODUCT IS AMAZING
And he should know, he's a sales rep for them...
A 2 inch long piece of thread tape, done.
The rubber one is the best, this guy is clueless!
What amazes me is how many times a washer CAN be reused without failure ...probably not a good idea but I confess for decades I did not know any better ...I almost never replaced them unless physically damaged .... just saying ...IF you lack one and have dumped your oil already? Statistically you will be fine reusing old one ...think of a new one as extra low cost insurance ...overkill even
Please practice few times before making the final video
Waste of 4 minutes of my life 😡 😡 😡 😡