Helped me troubleshoot my hard start, was a failed check valve. MUCH thanks for that BMW made check line replacement, never would have found that without this video.
This one of the videos on you tube to assist with fuel supply issues. Thank you for taking the time to make this. I learned a lot about fuel pressure related things now.
This video helped me to diagnose a big fuel pump failure with my 325is: today i replaced the pump, and although I couldn´t get the original part, now is working fine. thank you very much.
Loved both 1 & 2 videos... you were very thorough!! Any one new to electrical troubleshooting and or fuel pressure issues really gets it all here. I thank you sir for your efforts, time and your knowledge. This is an AWESOME knowledge dump !!!, Well done !!!!
This is the first instance where I've felt compelled to comment positively on a RUclips instructional video. This is a logical and methodical approach without all the hoopla. Truly excellent. Well done. The 5 morons who gave it the thumbs don't deserve to insulted.
That was crazy thorough and helpful. Thanks for spending the time to do that. I hope you have videos on every part of the car. Now I just need to learn how to use a voltmeter and make a relay bypass like you made.
Continued...Also try the wire wiggle test at the plug to see if that will activate the pump. A weak ground signal to the plug could also cause this, you should see direct continuity between the ground on the plug and chassis ground. I hope this heads you in the right direction, use caution when bench testing your pump, it will burn out quickly without the fuel running through it which lubricates and cools it, I would personally test it for no more than 5 seconds at a time. MyBimmerSpace
This is a good couple of videos because at the moment, I have a crank, no start problem and I bought new spark plugs. I just checked my ignition coils and they're all good.
Thank you for posting this video. It is very methodical. In my case I have an E39 (M54), and the pressure reading I am getting at the fuel rail is around only 10-12 psi. The symptoms are hard start and dying at idle and low to no power. I would appreciate your feedback if you have any thought. Thank you.
Awesome video! Finally found someone working on the same car I have. Do you have any videos on after market alarm install? I'm trying to find what wires to use for headlight flashes and alarm, Horn function . Thanks Tom
Your videos have been helping me diagnose my E36 no start problem. Turns out I have a fuel problem, no pressure is being held at the pump, so I guess the check valve has failed... thing is, it's a brand new pump! Also, when I clamped off the hose while the pump was running, it didn't raise pressure or squeak as yours did. Do check valves fail often? I installed this pump about two months ago and had the same symptoms before and after. Another weird thing - my car started and idled with the fuel pump fuse out and reading 0 psi at the upper fuel rail... vacuum effect? Got it on video and everything, blew my mind!
I have a 1995 bmw m3 e36 it starts fine when it's cold. After driving I have a hell of a time starting it then runs fine. Already replaced cam shaft positioning sensor. Any ideas?
Hi,this was quite useful.I own the same model BMW you were working on and the problem I encounter is hard starting on cold weather mornings.When it finally starts ,it stutters for a while before stabilizing. But if the weather is warm it starts the first time around.what should I check for?
Hi. I have an M Roadster (S50B32) and fuse 18 keeps blowing. All the electrics have been tested and everything is good (fuel pump was ok until I overloaded it while testing it - I've replaced it). The fuel pump (which I've just replaced as part of the search to find the fault) is stalling. It pumps, then slows down and the current rises and blows the fuse. It pumps fuel through a hose into a petrol can, but stalls (and blows the fuse) when it's plumbed into the car's fuel lines. Any ideas? I have a fuel pressure gauge on order, as I think there must be a blockage. I'm hoping that it's just the filter. If it's between the filter and the engine, is there a method for clearing the lines. Can I use compressed air to clear the lines from the filter back to the tank (via the fuel rail) - I won't use it at more than 3.5bar, even though the fuel pressure for the car is 5bar?
Continued.....The pins can lose conductivity from oxidation, Radio shack sells a cleaner called Deoxit that chemically removes oxidation and also contains a conductor improving agent. There is another product that enhances electrical properties called STABILANT 22A which is what I use most of the time, but it is not readily available
Correct me if I am wrong here.....So you did a bench test and it worked, but when you plugged the pump into the harness it did not work even though you are reading 12 volts. It is possible your pump has an intermittent fault, they can act like starters, give them a tap and they turn on. I would check your fuel pump electrical plug connection, the plug may read 12 volts but can't carry the amps.
Thank you to my question when I leave my car for a period of 5 minutes Matchetgl but in 4 or 5 attempts to check the referrer fuel tank was very thought flow that unemployed valve to I any of them who in the fuel pump or that piece of iron Mosul where sprays ..My car BMW e34 m50 Thank Antdhar reply
Companion sorry,thanks for your video,try six month crazy,my fuel pump its new,in case writed 3,5 bar,but my fuel pump out 2,5 bar why?? My pression in my 318 is of 1993 its 3,5 or 2,5?? P.d; My preassure ever fall to 0,serious I'm tired my brain blow off,help...😥
Nice job. I have a E38 2.5tds from 97 with 277.000km and my engine shakes at idle and on low rpm when accelerating slowly. It starts ok but it also has low power when pushing in 4th gear (automatic) ....
I removed the hose that connects to the filter and the fuel when back to the tank imediatly. Any sugestions? Also my automatic transmission has hard shifting, no shackes or anything just when i put it in to Drive or reverse it gives 2 jolts. And when its changing gears looks like it releases the “clutch” too fast. When i accelarete and let the rpm dropp and put it in to Drive it does not gives a jolt. Hope to ear from you soon. Thanks
My M50 is running out of fuel at 1/4 in the fuel tank gauge. That happened before and it was the fuel pump. But now the fuel pump/pressure is ok, any idea of what is going on? And I really would like to know how that sucking jet pump inside the tank works if it has anything to do with my problem. Thanks!
My M50 is 3 Bar, my car surges under load, it starts easy, idles, gets full power any ideas? the power comes on then drops off then comes on then drops off etc but only under load like going up a hill
I know this is a old video, but worth a shot, i got a 325i and im struggling with it smelling gas and shooting flames... its cool but not healthy, mine is at 3.5 bar (55psi) on idle but when i rev it up it can drop to 2.8 to 3 bar(40psi to 43psi)... will this damage the engine ? its a track car so high revs is where its living
this is fab,thanks very much,In my case the car will start if i hard wire the pump,so no power getting to the pump,my car is a 2005 e60 5 series 2.5 dont know where the fuse or relay are,anyway thanks again,this may help.eoin
I won a e36 320i 1994 m50 engine if done everything new vdo pump new coolant temp ,new spark pkugs ,new fuel injector , new maf sensor and still sometimes the car takes a while to start in the morning and feels weird u press on the gas and the car wont rev above 1500rpm then when she worms up a litlle it revs to 2500rpm max and when the water temp gauge shows at the midle turn off the car restart it and it will rev normally at any rpm and will drive smooth pls any help abt that?
And i thought it was the check valve in the pump ive installed a check valve but used for hydrolic purpous coz i didnt find for fuel and still having this issue even ive checked as u did for fuel pressure and insure that the fuel regulator is gd and all that stuff 😢
My car just stalled suddenly when i was accelerating at a traffic light, I'm pretty sure it's fuel system related since it starts sometimes but stalls right away (starter is new as well), that's more likely pump related than wiring right? Since it happened so suddenly?
Questions in the front of the car when I turn the key on goes to 50 psi then drop to 45 when prime is done what causes this I've check the psi in the tank its showing 55psi
I have a bmw 330i and I took off the fuel pump check it with a battery did work but wasn't loud ?car cranks but won't start. should I get a new pump? or is it something else
+Boba Fett I changed it and it worked make sure you check your fuel pressure if it's zero it may be your fuel pump and if low it can be fuel filter ,regulator or your fuel pump is going out and also make sure you are getting spark
What if my car bogs down after hard acceleration? I could be driving the car completely fine, everything works well. However if I accelerate hard, it'll start to bog down real bad, and hitting the pedal won't give it any acceleration. Nothing. Then I have to pull over, and the idle will be real bad. It jumps from about 100-900 RPMs, and eventually shut off. After about 15 minutes, the RPMs even out and the car will seem to drive normally again.
Why are you not testing pressure just before it enters fuel rail. It’s more accurate because it’s after the fuel filter and closest to injectors. I believe there is ltessire drop.
Hi, I have x5 2007, I have problem starting only with cold weather, otherwise is good, I just replace the battery, but the problem still, it is cracking but no start. So if I put the car in garage , the car is working fine , but if I leave the car outside for 2 or 3 hours in cold weather , so will not start. Any suggestion please.
Helped me troubleshoot my hard start, was a failed check valve. MUCH thanks for that BMW made check line replacement, never would have found that without this video.
This one of the videos on you tube to assist with fuel supply issues.
Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I learned a lot about fuel pressure related things now.
Thank you for taking time to explain all the different issues and how to resolve them.
2021 and this guy is helping me. What a man!! Thank you
This video helped me to diagnose a big fuel pump failure with my 325is: today i replaced the pump, and although I couldn´t get the original part, now is working fine. thank you very much.
Loved both 1 & 2 videos... you were very thorough!! Any one new to electrical troubleshooting and or fuel pressure issues really gets it all here. I thank you sir for your efforts, time and your knowledge. This is an AWESOME knowledge dump !!!, Well done !!!!
This is the first instance where I've felt compelled to comment positively on a RUclips instructional video. This is a logical and methodical approach without all the hoopla. Truly excellent. Well done. The 5 morons who gave it the thumbs don't deserve to insulted.
It's now 15 Morons lol..
That was crazy thorough and helpful. Thanks for spending the time to do that. I hope you have videos on every part of the car. Now I just need to learn how to use a voltmeter and make a relay bypass like you made.
I just learned what all the other fittings in my fuel pressure gauge are for. Great video. Thanks and God bless.
This is the Greatest video i have ever watched on Fuel pump®ulator Troubleshooting. Thank you very much.
Continued...Also try the wire wiggle test at the plug to see if that will activate the
pump. A weak ground signal to the plug could also cause this, you should
see direct continuity between the ground on the plug and chassis ground. I
hope this heads you in the right direction, use caution when bench testing
your pump, it will burn out quickly without the fuel running through it
which lubricates and cools it, I would personally test it for no more than
5 seconds at a time. MyBimmerSpace
This is a good couple of videos because at the moment, I have a crank, no start problem and I bought new spark plugs. I just checked my ignition coils and they're all good.
Thank you for the detailed video.
Would a bad check valve cause misfires/hesitation during idle?
Thank you again. Cheers
Thank you for posting this video. It is very methodical. In my case I have an E39 (M54), and the pressure reading I am getting at the fuel rail is around only 10-12 psi. The symptoms are hard start and dying at idle and low to no power. I would appreciate your feedback if you have any thought. Thank you.
Awesome video! Finally found someone working on the same car
I have. Do you have any videos on after market alarm install? I'm trying to find what wires to use for headlight flashes and alarm, Horn function .
Thanks Tom
Great video man! Keep on helping us.
Your videos have been helping me diagnose my E36 no start problem. Turns out I have a fuel problem, no pressure is being held at the pump, so I guess the check valve has failed... thing is, it's a brand new pump! Also, when I clamped off the hose while the pump was running, it didn't raise pressure or squeak as yours did. Do check valves fail often? I installed this pump about two months ago and had the same symptoms before and after. Another weird thing - my car started and idled with the fuel pump fuse out and reading 0 psi at the upper fuel rail... vacuum effect? Got it on video and everything, blew my mind!
Great video, one question? How do you bridge Tre tuel pump relay?What's the pins numbers,thank you and cheers from ontario ca
I have a 1995 bmw m3 e36 it starts fine when it's cold. After driving I have a hell of a time starting it then runs fine. Already replaced cam shaft positioning sensor. Any ideas?
Hi,this was quite useful.I own the same model BMW you were working on and the problem I encounter is hard starting on cold weather mornings.When it finally starts ,it stutters for a while before stabilizing. But if the weather is warm it starts the first time around.what should I check for?
Hi. I have an M Roadster (S50B32) and fuse 18 keeps blowing. All the electrics have been tested and everything is good (fuel pump was ok until I overloaded it while testing it - I've replaced it). The fuel pump (which I've just replaced as part of the search to find the fault) is stalling. It pumps, then slows down and the current rises and blows the fuse. It pumps fuel through a hose into a petrol can, but stalls (and blows the fuse) when it's plumbed into the car's fuel lines. Any ideas? I have a fuel pressure gauge on order, as I think there must be a blockage. I'm hoping that it's just the filter. If it's between the filter and the engine, is there a method for clearing the lines. Can I use compressed air to clear the lines from the filter back to the tank (via the fuel rail) - I won't use it at more than 3.5bar, even though the fuel pressure for the car is 5bar?
Continued.....The pins can lose conductivity from oxidation, Radio shack sells a cleaner
called Deoxit that chemically removes oxidation and also contains a
conductor improving agent. There is another product that enhances
electrical properties called STABILANT 22A which is what I use most of the
time, but it is not readily available
Correct me if I am wrong here.....So you did a bench test and it worked,
but when you plugged the pump into the harness it did not work even though
you are reading 12 volts.
It is possible your pump has an intermittent fault, they can act like
starters, give them a tap and they turn on. I would check your fuel pump
electrical plug connection, the plug may read 12 volts but can't carry the
amps.
This is the best I have seen to date.
Thank you to my question when I leave my car for a period of 5 minutes Matchetgl but in 4 or 5 attempts to check the referrer fuel tank was very thought flow that unemployed valve to I any of them who in the fuel pump or that piece of iron Mosul where sprays ..My car BMW e34 m50 Thank Antdhar reply
Companion sorry,thanks for your video,try six month crazy,my fuel pump its new,in case writed 3,5 bar,but my fuel pump out 2,5 bar why??
My pression in my 318 is of 1993 its 3,5 or 2,5??
P.d; My preassure ever fall to 0,serious I'm tired my brain blow off,help...😥
this video is just amazing very well made well done
One question... must pump start pumping fuel once you turn the key to "contact" position, or it won't start until the key goes all the way to "start"?
Nice job. I have a E38 2.5tds from 97 with 277.000km and my engine shakes at idle and on low rpm when accelerating slowly. It starts ok but it also has low power when pushing in 4th gear (automatic)
....
hello can you tell me what level of gasoline you recommend so as not to overflow when opening the fuel pump
You can remove fuel pump with full tank of gas although the car should be on level ground first or make sure car is level before removal.
@ 1:42 min there is a drop in pressure, my car drops to 35 psig, could you please give me the name of the valve and where is it located.
I removed the hose that connects to the filter and the fuel when back to the tank imediatly. Any sugestions?
Also my automatic transmission has hard shifting, no shackes or anything just when i put it in to Drive or reverse it gives 2 jolts. And when its changing gears looks like it releases the “clutch” too fast. When i accelarete and let the rpm dropp and put it in to Drive it does not gives a jolt.
Hope to ear from you soon.
Thanks
My M50 is running out of fuel at 1/4 in the fuel tank gauge. That happened before and it was the fuel pump. But now the fuel pump/pressure is ok, any idea of what is going on? And I really would like to know how that sucking jet pump inside the tank works if it has anything to do with my problem. Thanks!
My M50 is 3 Bar, my car surges under load, it starts easy, idles, gets full power any ideas? the power comes on then drops off then comes on then drops off etc but only under load like going up a hill
I know this is a old video, but worth a shot, i got a 325i and im struggling with it smelling gas and shooting flames... its cool but not healthy, mine is at 3.5 bar (55psi) on idle but when i rev it up it can drop to 2.8 to 3 bar(40psi to 43psi)... will this damage the engine ? its a track car so high revs is where its living
seems normal, check air fuel ratio before beating the heck out of the engine
this is fab,thanks very much,In my case the car will start if i hard wire the pump,so no power getting to the pump,my car is a 2005 e60 5 series 2.5 dont know where the fuse or relay are,anyway thanks again,this may help.eoin
I won a e36 320i 1994 m50 engine if done everything new vdo pump new coolant temp ,new spark pkugs ,new fuel injector , new maf sensor and still sometimes the car takes a while to start in the morning and feels weird u press on the gas and the car wont rev above 1500rpm then when she worms up a litlle it revs to 2500rpm max and when the water temp gauge shows at the midle turn off the car restart it and it will rev normally at any rpm and will drive smooth pls any help abt that?
And i thought it was the check valve in the pump ive installed a check valve but used for hydrolic purpous coz i didnt find for fuel and still having this issue even ive checked as u did for fuel pressure and insure that the fuel regulator is gd and all that stuff 😢
My car just stalled suddenly when i was accelerating at a traffic light, I'm pretty sure it's fuel system related since it starts sometimes but stalls right away (starter is new as well), that's more likely pump related than wiring right? Since it happened so suddenly?
Questions in the front of the car when I turn the key on goes to 50 psi then drop to 45 when prime is done what causes this I've check the psi in the tank its showing 55psi
Thanks for making these videos!
I have a bmw 330i and I took off the fuel pump check it with a battery did work but wasn't loud ?car cranks but won't start. should I get a new pump? or is it something else
I have the same issue. Hope they reply
+Boba Fett I changed it and it worked
make sure you check your fuel pressure if it's zero it may be your fuel pump
and if low it can be fuel filter ,regulator or your fuel pump is going out
and also make sure you are getting spark
+Boba Fett let me know if you have questions I might be able to help
What if my car bogs down after hard acceleration? I could be driving the car completely fine, everything works well. However if I accelerate hard, it'll start to bog down real bad, and hitting the pedal won't give it any acceleration. Nothing. Then I have to pull over, and the idle will be real bad. It jumps from about 100-900 RPMs, and eventually shut off. After about 15 minutes, the RPMs even out and the car will seem to drive normally again.
That's great! I'm glad this video helped
What about not getting power to the white connector?
GREAT vid!! Thanks for all the great information.
any resources for the external check valve? Dealer said good # but no longer available.
Best bet is to simply replace the pump.
thanks for sharing your knowledge. you're an owe some mentor.....God bless you more in life
I thought the m50 had 3,0bar fuel pressure and the m52 3,5bar, is that right?
Why are you not testing pressure just before it enters fuel rail. It’s more accurate because it’s after the fuel filter and closest to injectors. I believe there is ltessire drop.
This is a fantastic video. thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I have an e38 but this would apply with some small differences.
great video thanks for your time...
Thank you! Great video!
GRACIAS !!!!!great video,,youre a master!!!
Good job, buddy
very in depth thank you
YOU ARE PRO PERFORMANCE
my dealership just told me that the inline check valve is no-longer available....sigh
VDO fuel pump's on the BMW'S are at 100 TO 110 PSI NOT 50 LOL
YOUR PUMP IS BAD
Hi, I have x5 2007, I have problem starting only with cold weather, otherwise is good, I just replace the battery, but the problem still, it is cracking but no start. So if I put the car in garage , the car is working fine , but if I leave the car outside for 2 or 3 hours in cold weather , so will not start. Any suggestion please.