The quick way to shape classic longboard rails.
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- This is one way to get that classic 50/50 noserider rail shape. (sorry, all by eye so a bit too much looking at it) I shaped the bottom rocker and concaves complete and foiled the deck to my finish thickness. My one change from normal is that do the bottom tuck bevels before the deck rail bevels so that I am sure that I have enough rail thickness to get the amount of softness I want. Simple, easy and accurately repeatable and best of all this is possible to do with a simple surform if you don't feel comfortable with a planer.
![Surfboard Shaping [2 of 2] Rail Bands and Bottom Contours](/img/1.gif)
Very cool - you reminded me that my cross stepping got better when I started shaping
Thanks for share Mr Kazuma!
Hey Matt, you’re a wealth of knowledge. I hope you don’t mind a question for a vid you made long time ago. If I observed correctly, you attacked the bottom and deck rails differently (bottom banding outward to rail, deck banding inward to stringer), is there a reason for that? I’m assuming those are 50/50 rails, why not do the bands in the same sequence? Thank you in advance!
Sorry if this is a stupid question, I am new to this. I notice you didn't shape the rails along the tail. Is that something you just do later by hand? Also, what depth do you have your planer set to?
Simeon Flowers great questions. I only shape the rails in the tail by hand because it has to be exactly right and the proper edge will make or break the boards performance. My planer is adjustable on the fly, zero to full cut in less than 1/4 turn of the knob. I typically cut at 1/8" depth and always initiate the cut at zero cut.
Greetings all the way from Atlanta Matt,
I came across a older "surfer steve video" whereby a sort of hotwire rail-cutter could be made to basically cut the shape of a surfboard rail into the square profile smooth and instantly.....but that being the case, both the nose and tail rail will be too thick but already rounded when it's time to shape the rail bands which need to be tapered down at nose and tail of the board (because the hotwire cutter is not size adjustable). So I'm confused a little on how to achieve this blend because we are used to seeing a flat or square or 90 degree angle profile tapered or shaped down at the nose and tail, NOT one already smoothly rounded (50/50 or 60/40)....
If we remove the foam hotwire cutter before contacting the tail and nose area (leaving them square), how can we blend in and taper the rail bands from square area to the already round hotwired area?? If we continue the hot wire cutter around the nose and tail, how do we blend or taper down that already smoothly rounded railband at the nose and tail?? If we build a SMALLER hotwire cutter with same round (50/50 or 60/40) shape but exclusively for the nose and tail area only, again, how to blend or transition the smaller rounded rail cut at the nose and tail to the bigger one that is along the rest of the board's rail profile??
Here's the video (at 1:00) ruclips.net/video/juYzB7fF-DQ/видео.html
Steve always shapes his boards to 50/50. To answer you long question and if you are using Steve hot-wiring mehtod you will have to eyeball those tail and nose. If I were you just do the whole rails by sanding and stay away from the hotwire.
Surfmus ok thanks for your insight
Thanks for the awesome videos. I am leaning towards getting a power planner, the modified hitachi planner seems like a decent first start? any advice?
sorie kondi. I am glad that you find some useful information here. The Hitachi modified is great and all that you need, even at the professional level. If you want a cheap planer that can get the job done then the Wen planer is fine. At $47 on Amazon (delivered) there is no reason not to have a planer. I bought one just to see if it could work and I shaped two perfect boards with it. Not as versatile at a modified planer but still gets the job done.
Hey thanks for a reply, thats awesome. again thanks for the videos. I think I will go with the modified hitachi on shaper supply. Listen, do you by any chance offer web sessions? I think that could be a market, I am land locked right now so making it to shapers studios or what not for advice and tips is a little un-realistic. However a solid web cam and a PayPal account or something could see a quick hours/half hour profit for anyone needing advice. I am that guy I need advice, I have all the shaping material but a few pointers and q&a would be sweet. let me know if that sounds completely bat crazy.
sorie kondi. Yes, I do a ton of online training. The internet has made it quick and easy to get people in track and help with trouble areas in their shaping.
point me in the right direction, I looked at your website is it on there? I will be needing some instruction before I go to far an make a 9 3'" scrap board. Gonna build a shape room in my garage so it won't get to destroyed today.
sorie kondi. I have lots of videos here on RUclips but most of the detailed training videos are hidden. Email me what you need help with. Matt@kazumasurf.com
Hey could you show you vacuum set up? Mine tends to bind and clog and yours seems to be relatively out of the way.
Jim Bodenrader. Let me find that video, I have it somewhere
Jim Bodenrader. Here is that planer vacuum video. ruclips.net/video/wKgTExCw2SM/видео.html
How much are the nose and tail heights??
4.5" nose and 3.75" tail.. Aloha, Matt