Wow this and finding top dead center helped me rebuild my bike that i bought for 800 canadian dollars, absolutely amazing info and well explained!! Subscibed!
Thanks a lot! I couldn't find this info any where, so I made the video after it took me hours of searching and having to tear down and it all over again.
Thanks a million! Like others have said, the workshop manual sucks. Last time I adjusted the valves the chain skipped a tooth. Really anxious about doing the top end until I found this. Thanks
Remember to crank the engine by hand multiple revolutions first (use the rear wheel if you don't have a kick starter) to check that the tensioner has fully locked. It also won't put full pressure on the chain before the tensioner is filled with oil. When starting the bike, let it idle for some time without altering the revs until oil pressure is enough to reach and fill the tensioner.
Lol! Hey! I just recently did a top end on this bike.... I forgot to turn it like you said when I was done. It's something I always do, but I forgot.. Timing skipped,,, I wasn't laughing then.
It can jump if it is too loose. The tensioner can not be too tight, it is hydraulically tensioned by the engine /oil pump produced oil pressure. The internal ratcheting mechanism prevents it from collapsing.
I don't if it will jump if it is too tight, or maybe you mean if the tensioner is too tight and doesn't pop out to apply tension? That would leave the chain loose and make problems.
3:27 hate to be that guy but i don't think you compressed the tensioner enough there. 3 mm is a small amount, you can see in the manual that the shiny gold part is barely visible. I know because I just did a 350 build and it took me some time to get the correct washer to get the right final position. The manual warns your tensioner will only extend halfway if not positioned properly, which can and has caused problems for people. Not trying to be a dick but anyone watching this should be careful when installing these pesky tensioners. I've been reading a lot of bad things about the OEM tensioner, check out Dirt Tricks tensioners, they are more mechanical and not pure hydraulic like these.
If the tensioner engages and locks then it doesn't matter what the distance was. He did it perfectly correct. If it would've been the wrong distance then the tensioner wouldn't have locked in the extended position during install. The 3 mm is just a reference for the distance when it is on the "final" click before extending fully.
i followed the instruction, the sounds of the tming chain goes away after 3secs but before i opened it up to adjust the valves it was never doing that sound on start up? does it requires a few hours of riding for the tensioner to fill up with oil to keep tension while the engine is not running? thanks
I am not sure about that. Mine does make any different sound. I don't think a fee hour of riding will fix though. There must be something going on in there
Here is a link to valve shim calculator that I made if you need it: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lP_oD-kH24lT2DRmMk5_dKs38_XT_kn5BVS_8v9LqAQ/edit?usp=sharing
I don't think so. Mine has been set... 4 time actually is working fine on this KTM and doesn't seem like it is going to go bad, but if it did I would probably replace it with an after market manual can chain tensioner
I am glad it helped. I almost ruined my engine the first time I tried it. It sucked, had it all together, thought was done, then I had to take the damn thing all apart again and start over.
mine is broken, but it's weird. when pressed 90 percent pre-install, then when it extends to far and then back in a bit then it won't extend anymore, it will act like when pressing it in pre-install mode but halfway.. so i added some washers so it doesn't extend that far anymore so it stays in a good mode.
Thx, yep looks the same as the LC8 I ended up buying a CJ Designs crank Lock bolt, it's a tad longer than the KTM part and has an point to make it easier to feel the groove.
Hey @FreekinEnduro, I recently did a valve adjustment on my 1290 Super Duke LC8, I linked your vid for the CCT removal and reset, hope you don't mind. Thanks, Paul. ruclips.net/video/5kRbOfKaalQ/видео.html
I am not sure, but I would set it to TDC just in case, seems like in most cases you can't go wrong with setting it to TDC. If you need help with TDC on this engine I have a video posted for that also. ruclips.net/video/L8sFlgVpHCA/видео.html
Engine didn’t start ticking until I changed oil and filters I kicked engine over slowly a few times before starting as well so I believe it must b the tensioner failing why the noise has started.
Is this a hydraulic tensioner? Or manual, assuming it's manual as you just adjusted it yourself. But the little hole in the end of the tensioner looks like its there to hold the oil pressure of a hydraulic tensioner.
I am not exactly sure what it is considered, but I would guess manual as after it is installed it has to be "sprung", there is defiantly a fairly powerful spring in there. I think the hole allows oil to enter to keep it lubricated.
They should make Cams as well for the Katos that don’t have pressed on lobes , WTF .. not single billet like the rest of the world , , amazing cost cutting on a already overpriced bike.
You have just saved my night. Thanks so much for posting this demonstration of installing the tensioner.
Haha. I know how you feel! I searched for hours myself before making this video.
Oh my, this was worth a million. Thanks mate!
Awesome! Glad it helped
The missing details explained in simple english. I could not figure out this cam tensioner. Very helpful!
Thanks!
Wow this and finding top dead center helped me rebuild my bike that i bought for 800 canadian dollars, absolutely amazing info and well explained!! Subscibed!
Thanks a lot! I couldn't find this info any where, so I made the video after it took me hours of searching and having to tear down and it all over again.
OMG thank you. Another video said to loosen all the engine mounts to shift the motor sideways. So glad I found this.
Glad you it helped! Things like that are why I posted the video.
Perfect guide buddy!!!! fitted my tensioner but didnt release the tension så the noice didnt stop and i almost lost my mind haha!!
svernhagen yeah depends on the year but should be the same tensioner dirt tricks makes a really solid tensioner if you end up needing a new one
Thanks
Thanks a million! Like others have said, the workshop manual sucks. Last time I adjusted the valves the chain skipped a tooth. Really anxious about doing the top end until I found this. Thanks
Glad I could help out!
Great video, thank you! FYI, I could only find one 3mm washer and it was sufficient.
Glad I could help!
Remember to crank the engine by hand multiple revolutions first (use the rear wheel if you don't have a kick starter) to check that the tensioner has fully locked.
It also won't put full pressure on the chain before the tensioner is filled with oil.
When starting the bike, let it idle for some time without altering the revs until oil pressure is enough to reach and fill the tensioner.
Lol! Hey! I just recently did a top end on this bike.... I forgot to turn it like you said when I was done. It's something I always do, but I forgot.. Timing skipped,,, I wasn't laughing then.
Just the help I needed! Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback! Glad I could help
Best video on RUclips
Thanks Nick!
Thank you so much for this you just saved so much of my time thank you so much
Thanks!
Thank you man for sharing
Glad I could help
Thanks, I wish I found this video earlier today. Apparently a cam can jump a tooth if it's too tight.....
The tensioner was over tightening? How does that happen?
@@SampsonGG he has to mean too loose, if its too tight it cant jump the cam gear.
It can jump if it is too loose. The tensioner can not be too tight, it is hydraulically tensioned by the engine /oil pump produced oil pressure. The internal ratcheting mechanism prevents it from collapsing.
I don't if it will jump if it is too tight, or maybe you mean if the tensioner is too tight and doesn't pop out to apply tension? That would leave the chain loose and make problems.
Another good tip: use a vise to compress the tensioning device - so much easier.
3:27 hate to be that guy but i don't think you compressed the tensioner enough there. 3 mm is a small amount, you can see in the manual that the shiny gold part is barely visible. I know because I just did a 350 build and it took me some time to get the correct washer to get the right final position. The manual warns your tensioner will only extend halfway if not positioned properly, which can and has caused problems for people. Not trying to be a dick but anyone watching this should be careful when installing these pesky tensioners. I've been reading a lot of bad things about the OEM tensioner, check out Dirt Tricks tensioners, they are more mechanical and not pure hydraulic like these.
Thanks for the input. 118 hours on my bike since I made this video, hare scramble races and enduros. Haven't had any trouble with it all.
If the tensioner engages and locks then it doesn't matter what the distance was. He did it perfectly correct. If it would've been the wrong distance then the tensioner wouldn't have locked in the extended position during install. The 3 mm is just a reference for the distance when it is on the "final" click before extending fully.
Well done! I was looking for the answer to un set the tensioner.
Thanks for comment, glad I could help!
@@ben333river yup, its in a bin now, i made a manual adjuster!
i followed the instruction, the sounds of the tming chain goes away after 3secs but before i opened it up to adjust the valves it was never doing that sound on start up? does it requires a few hours of riding for the tensioner to fill up with oil to keep tension while the engine is not running? thanks
I am not sure about that. Mine does make any different sound. I don't think a fee hour of riding will fix though. There must be something going on in there
Many thanks for this, can the tensioner be changed without setting TDC as believe mine failing and just wish to process a direct replacement
I am pretty sure you have to set top dead center for it, but not certain.
Here is a link to valve shim calculator that I made if you need it:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lP_oD-kH24lT2DRmMk5_dKs38_XT_kn5BVS_8v9LqAQ/edit?usp=sharing
Was your bike at top dead centre to do this? Or I have a 2016 250 xcf was wondering if I have to be at top dead centre to remove/change the tensioner
I don't recall, sorry. Good question.
Where does the spring go that comes with the new one for husky
Spring? Don't know that one. Maybe give me more details.
What were you trying to fix by doing that. Is that a reset. I have a 08 450 that makes some noise from in there. Thanks
I had to adjust my valves. Removing this was part of that process.
Is it true that the tensioner can only bet set about 4 times before they are no good anymore?
I don't think so. Mine has been set... 4 time actually is working fine on this KTM and doesn't seem like it is going to go bad, but if it did I would probably replace it with an after market manual can chain tensioner
Owe you a beer, getting ready to flip out on this bike after the cam chain kept jumping after a top end rebuilt. The shop manual sucks
I am glad it helped. I almost ruined my engine the first time I tried it. It sucked, had it all together, thought was done, then I had to take the damn thing all apart again and start over.
is it possible to reapir the ktm's failed tensioner or I have to buy a new one?
buy a new one
Have to buy a new one. I wold buy an oem, but some folks buy the aftermarket manual tensioner though I have never tried one of those
mine is broken, but it's weird. when pressed 90 percent pre-install, then when it extends to far and then back in a bit then it won't extend anymore, it will act like when pressing it in pre-install mode but halfway.. so i added some washers so it doesn't extend that far anymore so it stays in a good mode.
That is weird. There are some aftermarket ones that are not spring loaded, they have manual adjustment. Might be a good alternative.
Is it the same proces with the exc 500 2016? Thanks
I believe so
Thx for the info, I'm going to do valve adjustment on my 1290, looks like this has the same type of tensioner.
Check out my top dead center video if you need to. It has some info that is hard to find as well: ruclips.net/video/L8sFlgVpHCA/видео.html
Thx, yep looks the same as the LC8 I ended up buying a CJ Designs crank Lock bolt, it's a tad longer than the KTM part and has an point to make it easier to feel the groove.
@@PRL1290 Mine hasn't failed yet, but if it does I will look into the CJ Designs, thanks for the info!
Hey @FreekinEnduro, I recently did a valve adjustment on my 1290 Super Duke LC8, I linked your vid for the CCT removal and reset, hope you don't mind.
Thanks,
Paul.
ruclips.net/video/5kRbOfKaalQ/видео.html
Good details!
Here is my top dead center video if you need info on that: ruclips.net/video/L8sFlgVpHCA/видео.html
Thank you
Is it possible to remove and reinstall the tensioner without removing the radiator hose ?
It would be a serious feat to get it in/out without removing the hose.
@@ShutdownStranger got it. Thanks for the reply 👍🏼 !
I doubt it
Really good video but do I need to set my engine to tdc to just change the tensioner or can I do it with out being tdc
I am not sure, but I would set it to TDC just in case, seems like in most cases you can't go wrong with setting it to TDC. If you need help with TDC on this engine I have a video posted for that also.
ruclips.net/video/L8sFlgVpHCA/видео.html
Yes that would be helpful I have a 2007 sxf250 cheers mate
Engine didn’t start ticking until I changed oil and filters I kicked engine over slowly a few times before starting as well so I believe it must b the tensioner failing why the noise has started.
Let me know what you find out. That would be my first guess too.
What year? I have a 17 350sxf with 27hours that knocks on start up. This the same install method?
This is for a 2013 350. I am not sure about the 2017, but it could be the same.
@@ben333river ok thanks
Is this a hydraulic tensioner? Or manual, assuming it's manual as you just adjusted it yourself. But the little hole in the end of the tensioner looks like its there to hold the oil pressure of a hydraulic tensioner.
I am not exactly sure what it is considered, but I would guess manual as after it is installed it has to be "sprung", there is defiantly a fairly powerful spring in there. I think the hole allows oil to enter to keep it lubricated.
This is hydraulic automatic tensioner. Its adjusted with oil pressure. Manual adjuster is simple screw with locking nut.
That makes sense
did you use a torque wrench or just hand feel?
I just did it by hand, its been fine, but a torque wrench would be best
Great video . Very helpful thank you very much
Thanks a lot Traves!
Yeah thanks again because I would have put it in wrong if it wasn't for your video thank you very much
Hello, do you have to drain the oil?
You don't have to. Some will come out, you will have to top it off.
@@ben333river ok, thanks.
Was this fixing ur stock tensioner or is it a new aftermarket one
Stock
Thumbs up. Great tutorial.
Thanks!
you are lucky it didnt jump a tooth and blow your engine...
Wow bro!! Thanks so F much!
np
what bike is that?
2013 KTM 350 XFC-W
Interesting cheers
Thanks!
They should make Cams as well for the Katos that don’t have pressed on lobes , WTF ..
not single billet like the rest of the world , , amazing cost cutting on a already overpriced bike.
I am always amazed at how much all these bikes cots, KTM and other brands, they all seem over priced