i´ve been looking for such a video series so long .. finaly i found you :D now that i saw ep. 15 i will start at ep. 1 and will watch everything of this 😄greetings from germany
So, from the factory i believe the top ring is like.. 0.15mm. Thats for the rated 220hp this engine makes from factory. If i make 500hp after everything is said and done, i would logically need a top gap thats more than double the original gap, so like 0.4mm. Add in some head room, for peace of mind and possible future extra boost, 0.6mm was the final choice. Some have told me that you can have huge gaps (up to 0.99mm) without much, if any, efficiency loss. I, however, dont want to just blast my gaps like that. I like to calculate and be moderate, with everything i do.
Thank you for the reply. I have a boosted M104 with bad compression test results. (should have done testing before boosting it) and i was going through the Piston ring gaps part in your video and never though it mattered that much up until now. Will be rebuiling the engine very soon. Great job with the videos man!
So glad i could help!! Also note: top ring seals compression, 3rd is oil scraper, and 2nd is actually primarily a piston cooling ring. all 3 rings cool the piston, but the 2nd's job is this primary purpose. Just a bit of extra info. p.s. Post a video on youtube of the end result when you get it rebuilt, and get first revs!
Megasquirt 2 piggy backed on stock ECU, in hopes that the TCU will function normally for my auto trans. If i have issues with the TCU, ill rewire the whole damned car, swap to manual trans, and just straight MS2.
@@JakeSublime manual swap parts are easily available in europe if you can't find them in the states. I've heard that the car has almost all the provisions for a manual pedal box and clutch master cylinder from the factory
@@mariospantouvanos4645 yes, it does. I should just be able to punch a few things out and mount everything nicely IIRC. But, Mercedes manuals are very rare over in the states. Plus, i hear poor reviews of manual Mercedes trans' (that theyre not so fun). Thats why id just swap to a more common and available BMW manual trans. Thoughts?
Im planing to buy my kit from Turbobandit, did you bought that too, or are you going for a real budget option? and if so, wanna tell us what parts you gonna use for the turbobuild on the m104 ?
No way, TurboBandit is is cool and convenient, but I'm doing this all from scratch. Saves me thousands instead of going with TB. If you follow along, you can do exactly the same. All my videos describe what to do instead of using a "kit".
@@demirdd3591 TL;DR: Soon, my brotha. Copy that, thats is something i plan on doing. However, i would do it now, except there are still parts i need. I cant have a list of for sure stuff that will work, if i dont have everything in yet. That said, i can do a video on everything you need for engine internals, another vid for turbo parts, another for ECU, etc. Although, note that I am putting all parts needed at the beginning of each video, and in the videos description. Anyways, Ill see about doing a whole engine parts guide video soon. maybe within the next 3 vids..? I just got the head done and on the block so im a bit busy with other stuff rn.
I want this build to be 100% stock, for proof of concept. There will come a day when this engine, or another m104 that i purchase, will see 1000hp. Then, i will use new rods, block girdle, and sequential trans.
i´ve been looking for such a video series so long .. finaly i found you :D now that i saw ep. 15 i will start at ep. 1 and will watch everything of this 😄greetings from germany
Nice job
Very nice and informative, may i ask why you went with a final top ring gap of 0.6mm? are you planning on high boost or different fuel?
So, from the factory i believe the top ring is like.. 0.15mm. Thats for the rated 220hp this engine makes from factory. If i make 500hp after everything is said and done, i would logically need a top gap thats more than double the original gap, so like 0.4mm. Add in some head room, for peace of mind and possible future extra boost, 0.6mm was the final choice.
Some have told me that you can have huge gaps (up to 0.99mm) without much, if any, efficiency loss. I, however, dont want to just blast my gaps like that. I like to calculate and be moderate, with everything i do.
Thank you for the reply. I have a boosted M104 with bad compression test results. (should have done testing before boosting it) and i was going through the Piston ring gaps part in your video and never though it mattered that much up until now. Will be rebuiling the engine very soon. Great job with the videos man!
So glad i could help!!
Also note: top ring seals compression, 3rd is oil scraper, and 2nd is actually primarily a piston cooling ring. all 3 rings cool the piston, but the 2nd's job is this primary purpose. Just a bit of extra info.
p.s. Post a video on youtube of the end result when you get it rebuilt, and get first revs!
Thanks
Looks great. Look at my page. I have a m104 turbo in my w124. Makes 537hp. 760nm 😁
lets goo, what ecu you will be using?
Megasquirt 2 piggy backed on stock ECU, in hopes that the TCU will function normally for my auto trans. If i have issues with the TCU, ill rewire the whole damned car, swap to manual trans, and just straight MS2.
@@JakeSublime manual swap parts are easily available in europe if you can't find them in the states. I've heard that the car has almost all the provisions for a manual pedal box and clutch master cylinder from the factory
@@mariospantouvanos4645 yes, it does. I should just be able to punch a few things out and mount everything nicely IIRC.
But, Mercedes manuals are very rare over in the states. Plus, i hear poor reviews of manual Mercedes trans' (that theyre not so fun).
Thats why id just swap to a more common and available BMW manual trans.
Thoughts?
@@JakeSublime I've read that you can adapt a bmw shifter to work on a mercedes trans
yes and there are adapter kits for m104 to bmw manual trans. i would assume everything lines up farely well.
Im planing to buy my kit from Turbobandit, did you bought that too, or are you going for a real budget option? and if so, wanna tell us what parts you gonna use for the turbobuild on the m104 ?
No way, TurboBandit is is cool and convenient, but I'm doing this all from scratch. Saves me thousands instead of going with TB.
If you follow along, you can do exactly the same. All my videos describe what to do instead of using a "kit".
@@JakeSublime Ive been watching all your vids, and still looking forwards for a buying list - so we can build it like you did.
@@demirdd3591 TL;DR: Soon, my brotha.
Copy that, thats is something i plan on doing. However, i would do it now, except there are still parts i need. I cant have a list of for sure stuff that will work, if i dont have everything in yet.
That said, i can do a video on everything you need for engine internals, another vid for turbo parts, another for ECU, etc. Although, note that I am putting all parts needed at the beginning of each video, and in the videos description.
Anyways, Ill see about doing a whole engine parts guide video soon. maybe within the next 3 vids..? I just got the head done and on the block so im a bit busy with other stuff rn.
@@JakeSublime Thanks alot for your efforts, and i cant wait to see your build done :D
Why no H-profile connecting rods ???
I want this build to be 100% stock, for proof of concept.
There will come a day when this engine, or another m104 that i purchase, will see 1000hp. Then, i will use new rods, block girdle, and sequential trans.
What cr is your engine on?