The tips about torquing bolts is spot on. I've stripped so many bolts with torque wrenches. it takes a few failures to get a good sense of hand torquing, but after you make that mistake 2-3 times, you get a good feel for it. also, cute dog at 18:57
In case anyone is interested in some of those small bolt torque specs. 12 M6 Allen bolts and single M6 hex bolt that connects pump to oil baffle are all 9Nm For the 3 M8 bolts that hold the pump down: 21Nm I find having a small, low torque wrench good for the low torques. They're used for bikes. The explanation about the torque feeling makes sense but sometimes and for some people having the number is a bit more peace of mind.
Thank you for the detailed video. I've been watching them multiple times. For inserting the pin at 7:45, I'm wondering if it would be better to insert a screw and hammer that instead of directly on the pin to avoid having to file the pin after.
@@JakeSublime great, thank you! Hindsight for a recorded video yes. It can help others in the future though. I'm planning to put my engine together in the coming month or so and will be able to use it. 👍🏼
I saw on google people commenting if it would be possible to put the head of the pagani with the m120 engine in the m104 engine, is it possible to put the head of the 6.0 v12 or 7.3 v12? What parts of the Zonda m120 are possible to install?
great video - just one question didn't notice the location of the camshaft sensor - need to replace mine on a M104 3.2 and can't locate. could you advise. thanks !!
a bit late but if youre looking at the engine from the front of the car like youre about to work on the engine, its under the little black front engine cover to the right a little bit. The front black cover with the mercedes logo on it. Its a little guy that pokes into the head, right to the right of where the intake cam advance magnet is.
One thing do not put anti-seize on these spark plugs. That is an old rule the only time that you need to is if they are black spark plugs but these are chrome. You have to over torque them to keep them in spec because the factory book literally says not to.
Well.. in my experience, ive always used antisieze on spark plugs on every engine ive ever worked on. Ive seen, and have myself, damaged spark plug threads from stuck spark plugs. This could have been due to other factors, but i learned the lesson and have used the stuff since and never had a problem. many engines, 90s-10s: chrysler, gm, toyota, honda, hyundai, -- in fact, ive run with antisiezed plugs on this exact engine, new or old plugs, for 50k miles, and never had an issue. And always hand torqued, never torque wrenched. Never seen plugs on this be loose or backed out in any way after any amount of time/distance/driving style. After inspecting the head off the engine and apart, the threads werent damaged or discolored either. I dont know why you wouldnt use AS but i always do and will continue to. However, if you have a compelling counter argument with valid reasoning against using AS, i would love to hear it. I could be wrong, im willing to admit it if i am. I just want to explain my methodology for others to learn and understand.
Quick question for you. I am rebuilding my M104 and just got the timing set. Once I installed the tensioner the engine got SIGNIFICANTlY harder to rotate. Obviously its under tension but I am concerned at how hard it is to spin, never had an engine be this hard to spin. How hard was your engine to spin by hand without plugs in but the timing set correctly?
Funny enough I just did the head gasket on my m104 and I came here to ask the same question. Everything lines up after multiple rotations and it stiffens up at tdc then gets easier. Since everything lines up I believe it’s normal until all the parts are properly oiled again. Just like to confirm this with others too though
We can talk right here if youre down with that. You can also hit me up on snapchat, my recent videos have links to me there. It should be Jake_Sublime.
So yes as far as i understand, the m120 is 2x m104's! if im not mistaken, most parts, including the head, should be interchangeable. im not 100% on that as i havent done research on it, but that should be relatively accurate. So maybe the m120 can handle 1000hp+ stock? lol maybe idk
Oil sump and oil filter housing - original paper seal should be put on totally grease free, dry,surface, not on silikone on both sides - that's a big mistake and you should not stuff like this on youtube. You will see why in time. Same with timing cover... those are aluminium surfaces, seal free, and there should not be any silicone, paper, grease oil etc. If you are in big need of use "something", you can go for loctite 518 there but not on the sump / filter housing. You also should not use oil for valve cover rubber gasket... all of it should be dry as f... and on the back on the engine there sould be a ittle bit of silicone on two rubber seals. Don't need to do something better, good is enough. Best
That was a ridiculous amount of work. How many billable shop hours do you think without explaining how/making a video? I'm getting close to 300k on my 1993 Mercedes 300TE wagon w/M104 engine and bloody CEL came on a year after getting it to pass smog last year with O2 sensor change, plugs, oil, air filter, MAF cleaning, new air intake sensor, Liqui Moly products, and lots of cussing (praying). Btw, you can put a manual transmission to that engine as I have seen wagons with it. L6 swap would've been less work. I don't trust Mercedes when it comes to meeting emissions in CA. 3rd Mercedes over 20 years and they are PIA when smog comes up. Do you still wear heavy glove for protection and a thin glove for dexterity? I should try that when playing piano. 😆
I have no clue on the hours. This was a crazy learning experience, and its hard to condense that into billable hours. I wish you luck with your mercedes problem lol. I dont have smog in AZ so i can have my entire dash lit up like a christmas tree, with my exhaust out the hood. lol Ive been steered away from OE benz manual boxes. Apparently theyre not very flattering to high output engines. I would probably go with a bmw trans. Thats what alot of people do anyways.
@@jamesfpianist1168 Oh yeah i deleted mine. Lol. That thing would wine so loud on cold start, it was crazy. And yes the BMW is ratio'd very well for my application.
The tips about torquing bolts is spot on. I've stripped so many bolts with torque wrenches. it takes a few failures to get a good sense of hand torquing, but after you make that mistake 2-3 times, you get a good feel for it. also, cute dog at 18:57
BENTLEY!
Very clear instructions & very well done! Looks great! Thank you my dear boy!
More videos on the m104 turbo please 🙏
DONE
In case anyone is interested in some of those small bolt torque specs.
12 M6 Allen bolts and single M6 hex bolt that connects pump to oil baffle are all 9Nm
For the 3 M8 bolts that hold the pump down: 21Nm
I find having a small, low torque wrench good for the low torques. They're used for bikes.
The explanation about the torque feeling makes sense but sometimes and for some people having the number is a bit more peace of mind.
Haha @ nice&tight all video )) but overall a great video man ! very nice step by step and appreciate the part numbers in the description !!!
Great job,this is so useful!
we always replaced the cam bolts when we did head gaskets on this engine. they are stretch bolts
I like how you said you were going to change out the oil pump chain then immediately said you didn’t lol you got a like for that
Discombobulation
Greate job!
Do not use gasket sealer with oil pan gasket. It does say it on VR instructions
Thank you for the detailed video. I've been watching them multiple times.
For inserting the pin at 7:45, I'm wondering if it would be better to insert a screw and hammer that instead of directly on the pin to avoid having to file the pin after.
yeah youre 100% correct. Hindsight is 20/20 though, am i right?
@@JakeSublime great, thank you! Hindsight for a recorded video yes. It can help others in the future though. I'm planning to put my engine together in the coming month or so and will be able to use it. 👍🏼
@@09JSanchez Good luck! Be sure to find me on social media and show me the project!
@@JakeSublime will do, next time I'm working on it.
I saw on google people commenting if it would be possible to put the head of the pagani with the m120 engine in the m104 engine, is it possible to put the head of the 6.0 v12 or 7.3 v12? What parts of the Zonda m120 are possible to install?
great video - just one question didn't notice the location of the camshaft sensor - need to replace mine on a M104 3.2 and can't locate. could you advise. thanks !!
a bit late but if youre looking at the engine from the front of the car like youre about to work on the engine, its under the little black front engine cover to the right a little bit. The front black cover with the mercedes logo on it. Its a little guy that pokes into the head, right to the right of where the intake cam advance magnet is.
I don’t know much but so is the 3.2 m104 the most capable with stock internals compared to the 2.8 an 3.0 m104s?
Did you change out the oil pump chain spring ?
One thing do not put anti-seize on these spark plugs. That is an old rule the only time that you need to is if they are black spark plugs but these are chrome. You have to over torque them to keep them in spec because the factory book literally says not to.
Well.. in my experience, ive always used antisieze on spark plugs on every engine ive ever worked on. Ive seen, and have myself, damaged spark plug threads from stuck spark plugs. This could have been due to other factors, but i learned the lesson and have used the stuff since and never had a problem. many engines, 90s-10s: chrysler, gm, toyota, honda, hyundai, --
in fact, ive run with antisiezed plugs on this exact engine, new or old plugs, for 50k miles, and never had an issue. And always hand torqued, never torque wrenched. Never seen plugs on this be loose or backed out in any way after any amount of time/distance/driving style. After inspecting the head off the engine and apart, the threads werent damaged or discolored either. I dont know why you wouldnt use AS but i always do and will continue to.
However, if you have a compelling counter argument with valid reasoning against using AS, i would love to hear it. I could be wrong, im willing to admit it if i am. I just want to explain my methodology for others to learn and understand.
Quick question for you. I am rebuilding my M104 and just got the timing set. Once I installed the tensioner the engine got SIGNIFICANTlY harder to rotate. Obviously its under tension but I am concerned at how hard it is to spin, never had an engine be this hard to spin. How hard was your engine to spin by hand without plugs in but the timing set correctly?
Funny enough I just did the head gasket on my m104 and I came here to ask the same question. Everything lines up after multiple rotations and it stiffens up at tdc then gets easier. Since everything lines up I believe it’s normal until all the parts are properly oiled again. Just like to confirm this with others too though
what clearance rod bearing are you using?
Great job ! Is there any way i can contact you, regarding my engine build ? Regards Erik
We can talk right here if youre down with that. You can also hit me up on snapchat, my recent videos have links to me there. It should be Jake_Sublime.
which piston rod you used?
How much power can we make on stock internals?
i hear as high as 600bhp. I would stick with 500whp personally. My build will probably daily at 450whp.
M120 v12 = 2 m104 6 inline?
So yes as far as i understand, the m120 is 2x m104's! if im not mistaken, most parts, including the head, should be interchangeable. im not 100% on that as i havent done research on it, but that should be relatively accurate.
So maybe the m120 can handle 1000hp+ stock? lol maybe idk
Oil sump and oil filter housing - original paper seal should be put on totally grease free, dry,surface, not on silikone on both sides - that's a big mistake and you should not stuff like this on youtube. You will see why in time. Same with timing cover... those are aluminium surfaces, seal free, and there should not be any silicone, paper, grease oil etc. If you are in big need of use "something", you can go for loctite 518 there but not on the sump / filter housing. You also should not use oil for valve cover rubber gasket... all of it should be dry as f... and on the back on the engine there sould be a ittle bit of silicone on two rubber seals. Don't need to do something better, good is enough. Best
🤤🤤👍
That was a ridiculous amount of work. How many billable shop hours do you think without explaining how/making a video? I'm getting close to 300k on my 1993 Mercedes 300TE wagon w/M104 engine and bloody CEL came on a year after getting it to pass smog last year with O2 sensor change, plugs, oil, air filter, MAF cleaning, new air intake sensor, Liqui Moly products, and lots of cussing (praying). Btw, you can put a manual transmission to that engine as I have seen wagons with it. L6 swap would've been less work. I don't trust Mercedes when it comes to meeting emissions in CA. 3rd Mercedes over 20 years and they are PIA when smog comes up. Do you still wear heavy glove for protection and a thin glove for dexterity? I should try that when playing piano. 😆
I have no clue on the hours. This was a crazy learning experience, and its hard to condense that into billable hours.
I wish you luck with your mercedes problem lol. I dont have smog in AZ so i can have my entire dash lit up like a christmas tree, with my exhaust out the hood. lol
Ive been steered away from OE benz manual boxes. Apparently theyre not very flattering to high output engines. I would probably go with a bmw trans. Thats what alot of people do anyways.
@@JakeSublime Turns out it was the smog pump (air injection) so no biggie. Yep, BMW gearing probably better too!
@@jamesfpianist1168 Oh yeah i deleted mine. Lol. That thing would wine so loud on cold start, it was crazy.
And yes the BMW is ratio'd very well for my application.