"this is stupid..." sounds just like me running around with a camera :) Very encouraging that you get such nice results at the end of the day! Your darkroom videos really inspire me to set up my own darkroom, hope to do that soon. Pretty cool how you combine serious printing, with having fun and all the home made stuff. Really encourages me to handle things with care and to try my best, yet not to worry too much about the 'proper' gear. Big thanks!
Great to see someone using the 6x6 zeiss ikon nettar. I now have the 6x4.5 and 6x9 versions as well and am really impressed by the image quality they all give. I've not been able to get a dark room set up yet so negatives are digitally copied and processed in lightroom or photoshop, but I can see myself using these cameras a lot.
You motivated me to buy a Zeiss folder from your earlier videos. Now I own three and they’re my go to cameras as of late. As another comment suggests the problem with the spool coming loose is the silver “fingers” not the blue metal piece, it happened on one of the cameras I received from eBay. Prying up on those tabs should fix the issue, at least it worked for me. I appreciate your hard work making these videos, thank you.
Great video! I’m a big proponent of split grade printing. I will just do two test prints, the first is graded exposed with the yellow filter to find what made the whites right. The second test print would be first exposed with that time and the yellow filter then graded exposed to find the time with the magenta filter to get the darks where I want them. Now my starting recipe is complete and I move to the first proof print. This makes for fewer test print steps and I am into dogging and burning quicker. I do split grade printing for every print. Cheers. Charlie
I am enjoying your channel. Like another commentator mentioned, your videos using the Zeiss Ikon Nettar inspired me to purchase one. It was in good shape and I just finished a roll and developed it but have not made any prints yet. What I like is its small size. I can carry it around with me anywhere unlike other medium format cameras that I have. The only challenge I have so far is that it is hard to see the film frame numbers through the red window. I have to use a flash light (torch) to make the markings visible. Best regards.
My Nettar did exactly the same thing. I bent the blue widget out a bit to put a little more pressure on the film roll on the take up side. Seems to have sorted it 👍
I have a Super Ikonta C (6x9) and the results from it are absolutely stellar.. My best friend has a Super Ikonta BX (6x6) with T* Tessar.. What an amazing pocketable rangefinder. Mine own is one of my favorite cameras, so it's a constant companion of mine. Folds up nicely and fits perfectly in my pocket. Still trying to get my hands on the correct push on Series Filter as it seems that the one I have doesn't fit properly... Want to shoot some IR on it as I have a Kodak Wratten #89a (or b or c)... whatever the R72 filter is.. Can't wait to see.. Also, tried the Ilford Ortho ... wow! love it... Thanks for your video on it, made my decision to try it easy.
.Hi Roger...being that I've learned so much from you, I thought I'd share a couple of insights I've gained from others. In between sessions with the Zeiss, it's best to keep the shutter speed at 1. I'm assuming it's to reduce stress on the shutter springs, thereby prolonging their useful life. Rather than using a digital camera for it's meter, which is a reflective meter and not the 'prefered' incident meter, take a shot with the digital camera at ASA 100 (or whichever film speed you are using) in shutter priority mode. Refer to the metadata for exposure time. Then, still using the digital camera, switch from shutter priority mode to bulb mode and expose for the same time noted in the metadata when the shutter was in priority mode. Compare the two histograms. They should be comparable. Apply the reciprocity failure factor for the film you are using, then expose for the scene with the film camera at the full time of digital estimate plus RF, and voila...it works fairly well.
Thanks I'll try that. I was in spot metering and manual mode on the DSLR and spotted on the dark area of the bridge then over exposed that reading on the Zeiss by 2 stops. (If that makes sense)
Hi Roger, I may have a bit dumb question, I got an Durst enlarger with TIM60 timer and this timer glows in the dark, I'm bit scared that this green glow will fog my prints, so i cover the timer during I handle the paper. Am I paranoid or could it be a real risk?
Okay, just a 'heads up' on film. The Power Geek film in Poundland, which was £2 for 10 exposures, then went down to £1 (still uneconomic) has now been withdrawn from sale. However, and this is where the real cheapskate comes out in me, most stores haven't removed it from the shelves. If you take any that are left from a shelf to a store manager and point out that they can't sell them its worth a punt on just asking them to give them to you rather than throw them in a bin. They check their tills, they frown, they look at your smiling expectant face and throw them in your open bag....So far I've liberated twenty rolls from various store ;-)
Top notch as always Roger, and I feel your pain on the cold... I was out at daft oclock this morning for a similar reason and even well insulated it was brassic. On another note, have you done a video on split grade printing? Its something I'm looking at, now I've started using filters for my printing. Also, have you used Microphen, and whats your opinion of it if you have?
I have a video on split grading Mads. A year or so ago. I have used microphen a few times. It's ideal for higher speed films or pushing films for achieving smaller grain. Perceptol for slower speed films. I use xtol mostly.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss awesome ill have a look. I ask about microphen as I've just used it on panf and fp4 and they've come out terribly thin. I'll look into getting some xtol, I haven't tried that yet
I have a radiator in there for winter. When it's hot Summer I don't really go in there as it's too hot to so I wait for evening. I also have a microwave for warming chems if they drop below room temp.
www.photo.net/discuss/threads/fixing-clearing-a-fogged-viewfinder-nettar-517-16.391235/ Have look at the photo in ☝️link. The arrows in that pic point to what you call the widget, I think. The two metal fingers on either side actually do most of the job providing tension to the ends of the roll. Try bending these out a bit.
Just my opinion but! DSLR's don't make particularly good 'light meters for film. If you must use one open up a stop, as they tend to give an under comparison. Better still use an incident light meter such as a Gossen. Best tip ever for general landscape, again in my opinion, always shoot through a yellow/straw filter at the very least. I personally have orange filters on all of my lens most of the time. Compensate filter factor of course.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Most of the time. If it has sky in it then yes all the time. I know they call modern films 'fully' panchromatic. but in my opinion they are still overly sensitive to blue.
Ah, you got your new filters. It’s best to soak them in beer for a few hours. Heard it helps them work better. Guys, don’t listen to me. I only give bad advice. Cheers.
Jiggery Pokery is defined as making it right. Roger you have gave the world new words for life.
You have single-handedly gotten me to order a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 6x6 camera. I’m enjoying your videos. I’m looking forward to using the Nettar.
Hope it brings you joy has it has me 😊
Stellar work. That jiggery pokery bit made a big difference in the bridge photo.
very informative clips of this amazing cam!compliments!
"this is stupid..." sounds just like me running around with a camera :) Very encouraging that you get such nice results at the end of the day! Your darkroom videos really inspire me to set up my own darkroom, hope to do that soon. Pretty cool how you combine serious printing, with having fun and all the home made stuff. Really encourages me to handle things with care and to try my best, yet not to worry too much about the 'proper' gear. Big thanks!
Great to see someone using the 6x6 zeiss ikon nettar. I now have the 6x4.5 and 6x9 versions as well and am really impressed by the image quality they all give. I've not been able to get a dark room set up yet so negatives are digitally copied and processed in lightroom or photoshop, but I can see myself using these cameras a lot.
Love the technical craftsmanship, like a Boss
Great video Roger, thanks for sharing 👌
New under the lens contrast filters! Congrats 😊
Yes Usama. They are much easier! Thanks
You motivated me to buy a Zeiss folder from your earlier videos. Now I own three and they’re my go to cameras as of late. As another comment suggests the problem with the spool coming loose is the silver “fingers” not the blue metal piece, it happened on one of the cameras I received from eBay. Prying up on those tabs should fix the issue, at least it worked for me. I appreciate your hard work making these videos, thank you.
Yes, interesting. I'll have to look at that. Thanks.
Another great video Roger
Thanks Marcel
I like the Zeiss ikon! I'm gonna pick one up tomorrow!
You'll enjoy it
So cool.
Great video! I’m a big proponent of split grade printing. I will just do two test prints, the first is graded exposed with the yellow filter to find what made the whites right. The second test print would be first exposed with that time and the yellow filter then graded exposed to find the time with the magenta filter to get the darks where I want them. Now my starting recipe is complete and I move to the first proof print. This makes for fewer test print steps and I am into dogging and burning quicker. I do split grade printing for every print. Cheers. Charlie
I also use that method Charlie. Just get enough detail with grade 0 then 5 to bring the contrast where you want it. I like using filters.
Thanks really enjoy your photography videos!
Keep up , I learn from you :)
Congratulations on your win in the Sunnies!
Just found out thanks to your message. I had no clue. Thanks.
I just hope the fame, movie and book deals that will inevitably follow don't go to your head 😘
@@kieranpicken3696 😂
👍Coffee time and another entertaining video....Thanks.
I am enjoying your channel. Like another commentator mentioned, your videos using the Zeiss Ikon Nettar inspired me to purchase one. It was in good shape and I just finished a roll and developed it but have not made any prints yet. What I like is its small size. I can carry it around with me anywhere unlike other medium format cameras that I have. The only challenge I have so far is that it is hard to see the film frame numbers through the red window. I have to use a flash light (torch) to make the markings visible. Best regards.
I also struggle to see the frame numbers, sometimes skipping frames!
Great taste in music...👍
My Nettar did exactly the same thing. I bent the blue widget out a bit to put a little more pressure on the film roll on the take up side. Seems to have sorted it 👍
I have a Super Ikonta C (6x9) and the results from it are absolutely stellar.. My best friend has a Super Ikonta BX (6x6) with T* Tessar.. What an amazing pocketable rangefinder.
Mine own is one of my favorite cameras, so it's a constant companion of mine. Folds up nicely and fits perfectly in my pocket.
Still trying to get my hands on the correct push on Series Filter as it seems that the one I have doesn't fit properly... Want to shoot some IR on it as I have a Kodak Wratten #89a (or b or c)... whatever the R72 filter is.. Can't wait to see.. Also, tried the Ilford Ortho ... wow! love it... Thanks for your video on it, made my decision to try it easy.
.Hi Roger...being that I've learned so much from you, I thought I'd share a couple of insights I've gained from others. In between sessions with the Zeiss, it's best to keep the shutter speed at 1. I'm assuming it's to reduce stress on the shutter springs, thereby prolonging their useful life.
Rather than using a digital camera for it's meter, which is a reflective meter and not the 'prefered' incident meter, take a shot with the digital camera at ASA 100 (or whichever film speed you are using) in shutter priority mode. Refer to the metadata for exposure time. Then, still using the digital camera, switch from shutter priority mode to bulb mode and expose for the same time noted in the metadata when the shutter was in priority mode. Compare the two histograms. They should be comparable. Apply the reciprocity failure factor for the film you are using, then expose for the scene with the film camera at the full time of digital estimate plus RF, and voila...it works fairly well.
Thanks I'll try that. I was in spot metering and manual mode on the DSLR and spotted on the dark area of the bridge then over exposed that reading on the Zeiss by 2 stops. (If that makes sense)
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes. That does makes sense. I wonder if CF 5 was too strong, then.
Hi Roger, I may have a bit dumb question, I got an Durst enlarger with TIM60 timer and this timer glows in the dark, I'm bit scared that this green glow will fog my prints, so i cover the timer during I handle the paper. Am I paranoid or could it be a real risk?
Ha ha, I used to do the same! No, it doesn't affect my paper.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Well so I will give it a try.
Okay, just a 'heads up' on film. The Power Geek film in Poundland, which was £2 for 10 exposures, then went down to £1 (still uneconomic) has now been withdrawn from sale. However, and this is where the real cheapskate comes out in me, most stores haven't removed it from the shelves. If you take any that are left from a shelf to a store manager and point out that they can't sell them its worth a punt on just asking them to give them to you rather than throw them in a bin. They check their tills, they frown, they look at your smiling expectant face and throw them in your open bag....So far I've liberated twenty rolls from various store ;-)
Top notch as always Roger, and I feel your pain on the cold... I was out at daft oclock this morning for a similar reason and even well insulated it was brassic.
On another note, have you done a video on split grade printing? Its something I'm looking at, now I've started using filters for my printing.
Also, have you used Microphen, and whats your opinion of it if you have?
I have a video on split grading Mads. A year or so ago. I have used microphen a few times. It's ideal for higher speed films or pushing films for achieving smaller grain. Perceptol for slower speed films. I use xtol mostly.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss awesome ill have a look.
I ask about microphen as I've just used it on panf and fp4 and they've come out terribly thin. I'll look into getting some xtol, I haven't tried that yet
Nice one, quick question though, how do you regulate the temperature in the darkroom if it's in your garden hut?
I have a radiator in there for winter. When it's hot Summer I don't really go in there as it's too hot to so I wait for evening. I also have a microwave for warming chems if they drop below room temp.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks for the reply, used to have a darkroom almost 30 years ago, thinking of maybe setting up a new one in the attic.
The film tensioner in the nettar is not the widget as you describe it, but the "fingers" on either side of it. They'll have loosened over time.
Cheers Russell. I'll have to check that. I thought the tensioner "widget" was not keeping the film tight. First time this has happened on the Zeiss.
www.photo.net/discuss/threads/fixing-clearing-a-fogged-viewfinder-nettar-517-16.391235/
Have look at the photo in ☝️link. The arrows in that pic point to what you call the widget, I think. The two metal fingers on either side actually do most of the job providing tension to the ends of the roll. Try bending these out a bit.
Just my opinion but! DSLR's don't make particularly good 'light meters for film. If you must use one open up a stop, as they tend to give an under comparison. Better still use an incident light meter such as a Gossen. Best tip ever for general landscape, again in my opinion, always shoot through a yellow/straw filter at the very least. I personally have orange filters on all of my lens most of the time. Compensate filter factor of course.
Yeah I opened up 2 stops from the DSLR. You use an orange filter all the time on your black and white scapes?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Most of the time. If it has sky in it then yes all the time. I know they call modern films 'fully' panchromatic. but in my opinion they are still overly sensitive to blue.
Ah, you got your new filters. It’s best to soak them in beer for a few hours. Heard it helps them work better.
Guys, don’t listen to me. I only give bad advice. Cheers.
They are much easier than tray filters.
I need a pinnole camera but not sure which to get.
What do you think about this innovative ONDU newcomer?
ruclips.net/video/DemlQVzAU8M/видео.html
I use the Lerouge 66 and Ranica 66. So I can only mention those but many on the market.
Yayyyyyy.......... Feet up time :-)
First