Hi all! So after all this I couldn't figure out if it was my phone app or the camera shutter. So today I tested my phone app with my DSLR and found my phone app callibration was off. After callibration reflected and incident I was getting same readings as my DSLR meter. I've yet to try it with film! Still, thanks to all that commented about the metering and advice on light meters. Much appreciated. 👍
O my God! I scream when you mention me😍 I like this video! The photos are extraordinary; I love seeing the picture appearing on the paper😍 The fun during the storm was visible! Pushing film is always something that amazes me! I'm super curious to see the next video!
'Get dahn the beach an shoot the shit aht of it!' Love to watch your channel with a glass of wine. And yes, get a light meter - much more pleasant than an app.
I really believe in shooting locally instead of feeling urged to fly to Iceland or Yellowstone. There is always Something interesting. And I'm in a similar camera situation, phone wasn't adequate, so I got an old Minolta M and everything is spot on now. Tell the boss it will save on film in the end.
You are blessed living by the sea. The coast is too expensive here so I’m in the bush. Great photography to be had there too. But there’s just something about the ocean especially when storms are about
If you're ever over the water, visit parkers photographic in Southampton. They have mountains of darkroom and film equipment for cheap. Also light meters. And nearly 100 years of expertise.
Hello! Really nice photos from the Ikon, I am intrigued! Do you mind telling us a bit more about the little range finder doo-dad you put in the flash shoe? With regards what we want you to shoot - if what you shoot is becoming a drag on your creativity, shoot something else! We know you live by the sea, so we will get more sea photos form you in future anyway - and we will all be grateful for what you share with us.
I also live on an island, I am guilty of taking it for granted. Lately I have been shooting more at the beach, I have a couple scenes I've been working on. Might do a series of shots of same scene over course of the year, why not it's right in my back yard. As always love your channel! Cheers
Hi Roger...good video as always. I noticed you burned the border differently this time. In the past you had an insert to burn all four borders at once, but this time one edge at a time. Was there a particular reason? Have you heard of the double the distance focus method? Supposedly, it's an easier and more reliable version of the hyperfocal distance method used by landscape photographers. Essentially, you decide on what the closest object you want to be in focus is. Measure that distance, then set your camera focus at twice that distance. For example, the closest object you want to be in focus is 4 feet, so set the camera focus ring at eight feet. With a closed enough aperture (F11, F16), everything from four feet to infinity will be in focus. I mention this because this could make the Zeiss easier to focus. Even if you didn't have any thing in particular 4 feet away, just set the focus ring to 8 feet, aperture to F11 or F16, and voila...never concern yourself with focus again. Of course, it would have to be Sunny, or hazy sun, still... Here's a link to the double the distance method. ruclips.net/video/gsuM3bSSwd4/видео.html Curious, near the end, when you shot into the sun barely above the horizon, do you recall your aperture? F4 maybe?
I usually hit f16 and shoot infinite on sea. Unless I have a subject in the foreground such as a Log which I focus on. And yes I used to use the insert of the mat board to make my edges but some templates I don't have the insert so I make my border that way. :) Thanks for the info!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hi Roger...Yes. that is what i've always done...F16, and infinity. As a result, objects in the immediate foreground are blurred. This is different. My Zeiss has focus markings of 3, 4, 5, 8, and up. So by selecting 8, everything from 4 feet to infinity is in focus. Worth a frame of film for the try.
I have this camera and have gotten some really good photos with it . $25 at an antique shop. I didn’t/don’t have a light meter and they still came out exposed well somehow. Definitely need to one as they are invaluable for the old cameras without one . Thanks for the video
Yet another interesting and informative video, you always produce high quality content, love George, your experimental approach is fantastic, good job...
I really love the CatLABS film. Wonderful acutance. Not had any issues like you reported with pinholes. As for light meter, let me recommend Sekonic L-208 Twin Mater Analog and Incident Light meter. About $125 US. Fits where flash would go, so it measures what your camera sees. Love your videos. Very educational
Hey Rodger! You might want to check out Sekonic's 308 series light meter. There are probably some older ones floating around on eBay. For the longest while I had a hard time dropping $100 for a proper light meter, but man it was a game changer! 🙂
Another interesting 'play' with the Nettar. Mine is loaded but I ain't daft enough to venture out in the storms. Look forward to your thoughts on the Kodak camera.
Great video, have a Nettar but it has some fungus in the front element, going to give it a blast anyway to see how it performs. Love the relaxed approach, it makes the viewing very comfortable!
After seeing your video, I'd recommend contacting CAT LABS... that is a problem at MANUFACTURE. Might be a problem with one of their machines. Definitely not your fault.
6x6 is the way I go, Keiv 6c, Rolleicord Va and a Seagull 4bi. I have a Weston 111 meter. I like HP5 and Tri x I use a 1950s Gnome rangefinder Alpha condenser enlarger with a Schneider Componon S 100mm f5.6 lens. Nice prints there. I like it that you film in the darkroom while working. Keep it up. More old camera videos please, they all give an interesting arty look.
Shanghai Gp-3 is notorious for quality control problems. I got 10 or more rolls of 120 and over 200 sheets of 4x5 that are unusable. Pin holes, backing paper numbers bleeding through.
Do you shoot your b&w thru a yellow, orange or red filter? That should give you a more contrasty neg for those landscapes. You could also rate the film at a higher speed (1 or 2 stops) and compensate by increasing the development time; that can help too. Apologies if you already know all this. I sometimes rate Delta 100 at +1 stop in flat light with good results and negligible loss of image quality.
Holes in film look like star wheel marks, definately a manufacturing defect. It might be worth checking the shutter accuracy of the Nettar. I use a phone app for metering all the time and I get decent exposures. Great video again and I love seeing the coast.
I'm wondering if the shutter speeds on your camera are accurate - that might be the issue with the overexposure as opposed to the light meter app on your phone??
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I bought the Nettar after watching you last summer, love the camera. I also had over exposure using 2 different iphone apps that suggested the same settings, as much as 2 stops on my negs. Gonna continue using the app and adjust. Great work mate
For black and white, a phone should be plenty accurate. Question is if you are using it right? Are you measuring for middle gray? Measure off the palm of your hand, or wet sand in this case, for incident metering.
Great video -- love seeing you shoot and print. And sometimes your familiar surroundings can produce great images -- as you showed us! Question -- what is the rangefinder atop your Zeiss?
Thanks Aengus. It's a ROWI Rangefinder for focusing. I use it to focus on a subject and it gives me the distance so I then dial that distance into the camera.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss -- right -- I have a cool vintage rangefinder that is similar and is really accurate under 20 feet, but not over 20 feet -- as I have a lot of vintage non-rangefinder (so viewfinder) cameras. I often have to remember the hyperfocal distance for those cameras and use that for most photos where the subject is beyond the accuracy of my add-on rangefinder. Looks like that is a vintage RF also (and hard to find) -- do you know the age?
In my experience there's not a lot wrong with phone apps for exposure, but if you want a handheld then something like the Sekonic L308 should serve you well. Even older school would be a Weston Master V with the invercone of course. They do give you more street cred (or is it beach cred?)
Hello, I have a question: can I reuse the stop bath and the fixer for printing? Btw I have just discovered your channel and I have been binging your videos.I love them all :)
Yes you can. Bottle them up after a darkroom session. I use indicator stop bath which goes purple once it is no longer effective. Fixer. That's another story. You'll only know once your final print starts to discolour, and that can take time to notice. So I usually change my fixer after a couple of darkroom sessions. The more you print you'll know when to change chems.
As I've mentioned in other videos, I love my Zeiss Ikon Nettar, great "little" medium format camera! That's a pity for the perforation in the negatives, hopefully won't happen again. Looking forward for the images taken with the Kodak soldier camera. Is it an Autographic model?
Agree with below, they are caused by pressure when the film has been made at the manufactures, as the film length gets thicker as its wound on the pressure is not enough to affect the later frames
Best meter for film (in my opinion) Gossen Lunasix F. Think on tho but, those old cameras, the Ikon etc may have inaccurate shutters. Actually not may, more like will!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I know what a viewfinder is ,I've got one but I've never heard about it and never seen it as an accessoire.What's the name of this?
Have you contacted Catlabs about your problem ,they might have a fault with there manufacturing. I had a similar problem with 120 film from cinestill (colored dots on my negatives) ,contacted them and was send a replacement rol (they said there had been a problem in there manufacturing ).
Hey mate, always enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing your experiences with the rest of us. I agree that it would be worth you owning a good light meter and I wanted to put in my 2 bob about incident VS reflected or spot meters. For the type of shooting you do I think a spot meter would be far more effective. The spot meter reads the light the camera sees so by pointing it at different parts of your intended composition, you can measure the overall dynamic range of a scene and then make very accurate and easy choices about where you want different parts to fall on the scale of greys. An incident meter seems to be easier to come by and possibly a bit cheaper but I have found that it gives little actual information about how a given negative will look because it doesn't account for the reflectance and relative brightnesses of the subject you are shooting. For studio strobes I would say the incident meter is the go but I don't believe you are shooting in that manner on a regular basis. All the best with your photography ☺️👍
Agreed I'd need a spot. I usually use my DSLR for spot metering but it's a pain to take out when shooting film especially when I'm vlogging too! Thanks for the info Dav!
Shoot Film Like a Boss that's a good way to do it with the dslr! I have a Nikon dslr and a 200mm lens so I might have to give that a go. Does it work pretty well?
@@davyboyo they have accurate meters as you know and also you can see in the DSLR screen how the light is falling. Like film in the old days and having a poloroid back. I try to venture without it though. Extra weight and all
Hi just wondering if you do not mind sharing where are you buying your cardboard frames i could see my matt printouts framed in something similar :) thank you :D
Hi Roger, I just purchased a Ikon Nettar with a 75mm, I saw you in this video with that shoe viewfinder on the top. Does it works this kind of viewfinder with any kind of lens of does it have to match with the focal of the lens in the camera? Thanks in advance
Send the film and the backing back to the maker, explaining the problem, likely they will send a new roll and maybe a couple of more to test when they find out what an influential member of the photo community you are. You have people trying cameras though would never have tried before, case in point ----- Just yesterday i picked up a Foldex camera at the local goodwill store, it is in nice shape seems to work well and has an an Ultra fast Steinhail 1:6.3 mm lens, Film should be here next week. we have a mountain man Rondevous at our gun club next weekend, everyone dresses like the 1820's fur trade era. it should make for some interesting photographs.
I will see if I can post them on the club website, otherwise i will put them on my channel, which I don't use for much anyhow , that way I can narrate the pictures.. it's a three day even 14th 15th 16th, of feb I won't have pictures ready until the next weekend, I hope! I tore my rotator cuff (surgery coming soon) so i likely won't be shooting so that will give me more time for picture taking.
I broke my Kodak Soldier Vest camera almost straight after buying it :((( belonged to a Brit officer in WW1! Beautiful prints there! Sad that something went wrong with the film! Also, I wonder how do you flatten your fibre paper?
The Ilford fibre I use I hang all four corners then flatten in heavy books once dry. I've also ironed them between photo matt board! There is lots of ways people flatten them James.
When you meter with the phone app, do you spot meter the highlight and shadow areas and decide the exposure yourself or do you use average metering and just use that? Also, thank you for all of your great content, I have been inspired and learned so much watching your videos, cheers.
Normally I'd spot highlights and shadows and take an average. Sometimes I'll take a highlight reading and close down a couple stops. This time my phone app calibration was out
Yeah, manufacturing defects aren't that common but that sure looks like something went wrong in the packaging. I think it's a Chinese manufactured film, which isn't a byword for quality, but it's still usually ok. That's too bad though. If you're looking for meters, the Sekonic 398 is a great incident meter, no batteries, handles low light, if you watch for them you can usually find one cheap. Spot meters are always good, Pentax are the best but you'll pay for it, especially the digital ones. You can find good deals on the Soligor ones, the sensor II and the digital both use 9v, and if you're willing to put up with the zinc-air batteries the sensor I (gray metal bodied) meters are a really good value.
Google is your frienamy, the basic principle is to selectively use the high and low contrast emulsions that VC paper is coated with ie grade 5 on the sky, grade 1 on the foreground and maybe another grade on some midtones.
@@JonnyRobbie that answer is what you asked for, a half cocked answer for a half cocked question. Had you done even the slightest amount of critical thinking you would have found the solution to your query.
I often start all my tests with a 2.5 Filter as my standard filter using Multigrade paper. If I need more Contrast and If I'm lucky I can simply split my time from the 2.5 filter tests using grade zero and grade 5 to get a punchier looking print. (If at 10seconds with 2.5 filter the test print looks okay but lacks contrast I can then Split times and use 5s grade 0 and 5s grade 5). If you are still not happy with the contrast try using the other filters. Use 1 instead of 0. Or a bit more time on grade five. It's all trail and error until you are happy with your contrast on your print Jonny.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok, then. I'm wondering how you chose between doing split grading and between using a single precisely graded filter? If you need punchier print, why not use single grade 3 or 3.5 filter? If you know, what I mean. Also wanted to thank for you videos, Roger, they're always nice.
There was a rumour that earlier releases of that film suffered from "backing paper inprinting". I never knew exactly what that meant but I wonder if this is it? It's enough for me to stick with my staples (Ilford etc). Great video though mate. Always enjoy your work.
TED SMITH it’s Shanghai GP3 rebranded. They use some shitty paper and if it still long enough the UV rays will imprint the text from the crap paper onto the film.
You won't regret investing in a good quality spot meter, the creative freedom it affords will make you wonder why you waited so long. I can personally recommend the Minolta Spotmeter F or M, the Pentax models are good but overpriced in my opinion as the same price will fetch you a modern digital spot meter. Either way just get one!!
I have had that many times, no idea what causes it. Makes me nuts because it's been 120, 35mm... usually on my older cameras. Never had it on my EOS camera or more modern SLRs, just the old old ones.. But even then, almost like at random, because I can shoot a dozen rolls in one, maybe one will have that issue.. Frustrating.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The worst experience I had was with Shanghai GP3 film. It's abysmal film. Great tones, don't get me wrong. But the QC is so bad. Machine marks that are impossible to deal with on the actual film; The first few sheets were fine, no issues on them.. Then after that, this flic.kr/p/ff4NYQ Missing emulsion about a half inch from side, plus another half inch (inch) of antihalation layer on it as well. Tool marks down that side where no emulsion and machine marks across the centre... I had it so often I took a few sheets out of the box to inspect, very clear that it was from factory. That's what I saw with your CATLABS film as well, it clearly had damage from factory. It was in the exact same spot, which means it happened while the machine was making the rolls.
There's a whole thread over at photrio about issues with that brand - mostly reports of the film separating from its backing paper and bunching up inside Bronica and Hasselblad backs. Your pinholes would be a new issue, but not that unexpected given that they seem to have a history of quality issues when it comes to finishing the film. I love the idea of new film brands making their way to the market, but unfortunately a fair share of them are either released prematurely (and suffer from quality issues) or are just blatant rebrandings of existing films.
They dont really have any issues. Its just the usual people getting the one of 2 odd ball rolls and making a big deal about it. I did get a defective ilford film batch once. Just once. But ive shot catlabs in 4x5 and 35mm
1) That film that you had used had to be dropped or squeezed while still in the packing or durning the production. 2) Sometimes that Zeiss pops out on my local Craigs list. However, that camera is 6x6 and I'm not a fan of square negatives. Plaubel Makina would make my heart sing. But to be able to buy one of those I'd had to sell one of my kidneys 🤣
I’ve seen that some people have had issues with catlabs films in large format, relating to imperfections in the film from factories. Might be worth contacting them about it
I definitely have to agree with Blia 100. The perforation issue definitely looks like a manufacturing defect that Catlabs should be advised of. I have 3 Zeiss Ikon Nettars and the worst I have ever experienced is scratches from the paint on the inside of the film door flaking off after 50 years.
By the way: Getting bored by your environment can be altered by changing objects. Landscapes consist of an agglomeration of millions of beautiful details that scream for being photographed too...
Hi all! So after all this I couldn't figure out if it was my phone app or the camera shutter. So today I tested my phone app with my DSLR and found my phone app callibration was off. After callibration reflected and incident I was getting same readings as my DSLR meter. I've yet to try it with film! Still, thanks to all that commented about the metering and advice on light meters. Much appreciated. 👍
Shoot Film Like a Boss how many stops was it off?
@@zapallalla it was over exposing by a couple of stops! There is a calibration setting within the app.
I have a Nikon 35mm film camera with a light meter so i just turn that on get the reading and then set my 4x5 to that reading and nail it every time.
O my God! I scream when you mention me😍
I like this video! The photos are extraordinary; I love seeing the picture appearing on the paper😍
The fun during the storm was visible! Pushing film is always something that amazes me!
I'm super curious to see the next video!
Subscribed! :-)
You can’t be a British film photographer without a dog to keep you company. Great video. Subscribed.
He's great fun Dave, Just a nightmare at the beach off lead. Thanks for the sub!
I enjoy all of your videos, no matter the photography subject. Thanks for sharing
'Get dahn the beach an shoot the shit aht of it!' Love to watch your channel with a glass of wine. And yes, get a light meter - much more pleasant than an app.
Great video, really enjoy watching your process.
I really believe in shooting locally instead of feeling urged to fly to Iceland or Yellowstone. There is always Something interesting.
And I'm in a similar camera situation, phone wasn't adequate, so I got an old Minolta M and everything is spot on now. Tell the boss it will save on film in the end.
I'll tell her right now! lol
You are blessed living by the sea. The coast is too expensive here so I’m in the bush. Great photography to be had there too. But there’s just something about the ocean especially when storms are about
Richard & Nikki at Nik & Trick are my go to film shop in the UK, looking forward to the soldier video mate.
Good. Video as always, look forward to the next one.
As Always great video Roger
Enjoyed the seascape video. Would like to see some more.
Mark. California
What a brilliant Chanel, love it. Best regards from Germany
If you're ever over the water, visit parkers photographic in Southampton. They have mountains of darkroom and film equipment for cheap. Also light meters. And nearly 100 years of expertise.
Cool. Cheers.
Fantastic channel and video as always!
Thanks Carlin
Hello! Really nice photos from the Ikon, I am intrigued! Do you mind telling us a bit more about the little range finder doo-dad you put in the flash shoe? With regards what we want you to shoot - if what you shoot is becoming a drag on your creativity, shoot something else! We know you live by the sea, so we will get more sea photos form you in future anyway - and we will all be grateful for what you share with us.
Cracking vlog roger please do more seascapes I love them. Ciara is still battering us over here since early morning.
It's picking up again here as I write this Tom!
I also live on an island, I am guilty of taking it for granted. Lately I have been shooting more at the beach, I have a couple scenes I've been working on. Might do a series of shots of same scene over course of the year, why not it's right in my back yard. As always love your channel! Cheers
That was my point. Always looking for something when it's right next door!
Hi Roger...good video as always.
I noticed you burned the border differently this time. In the past you had an insert to burn all four borders at once, but this time one edge at a time. Was there a particular reason?
Have you heard of the double the distance focus method? Supposedly, it's an easier and more reliable version of the hyperfocal distance method used by landscape photographers. Essentially, you decide on what the closest object you want to be in focus is. Measure that distance, then set your camera focus at twice that distance. For example, the closest object you want to be in focus is 4 feet, so set the camera focus ring at eight feet. With a closed enough aperture (F11, F16), everything from four feet to infinity will be in focus. I mention this because this could make the Zeiss easier to focus. Even if you didn't have any thing in particular 4 feet away, just set the focus ring to 8 feet, aperture to F11 or F16, and voila...never concern yourself with focus again. Of course, it would have to be Sunny, or hazy sun, still...
Here's a link to the double the distance method.
ruclips.net/video/gsuM3bSSwd4/видео.html
Curious, near the end, when you shot into the sun barely above the horizon, do you recall your aperture? F4 maybe?
I usually hit f16 and shoot infinite on sea. Unless I have a subject in the foreground such as a Log which I focus on. And yes I used to use the insert of the mat board to make my edges but some templates I don't have the insert so I make my border that way. :) Thanks for the info!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hi Roger...Yes. that is what i've always done...F16, and infinity. As a result, objects in the immediate foreground are blurred. This is different. My Zeiss has focus markings of 3, 4, 5, 8, and up. So by selecting 8, everything from 4 feet to infinity is in focus. Worth a frame of film for the try.
@@mosephina I'll give it a go. Thanks for the tip!👍
the storm photos were interesting! you should shoot more radical weather!
I have this camera and have gotten some really good photos with it . $25 at an antique shop. I didn’t/don’t have a light meter and they still came out exposed well somehow. Definitely need to one as they are invaluable for the old cameras without one .
Thanks for the video
Yet another interesting and informative video, you always produce high quality content, love George, your experimental approach is fantastic, good job...
Cheers Greame
I really love the CatLABS film. Wonderful acutance. Not had any issues like you reported with pinholes. As for light meter, let me recommend Sekonic L-208 Twin Mater Analog and Incident Light meter. About $125 US. Fits where flash would go, so it measures what your camera sees. Love your videos. Very educational
Catlabs is Shanghai GP3 Film which I've shot quite a bit in the past, never any issues. Thanks Jim.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Ordered 20 rolls of CatLABS. Shot and developed two rolls and no problems.
Great video! I use a light meter app on my iPhone and to me it works fine. Looking forward to a video with that Soldiers Pocket Camera. Keep it up 👍🏻
Hey Rodger! You might want to check out Sekonic's 308 series light meter. There are probably some older ones floating around on eBay. For the longest while I had a hard time dropping $100 for a proper light meter, but man it was a game changer! 🙂
Thanks mate. I was kindly sent one and I love it
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Awesome!
Funnily enough I was also out on the Somerset coast doing long exposures on film yesterday as well.
Crazy winds!
I don't live near the sea or mountains. Just flat farmland. You can only take so many pictures of cows haha. I love your images!!
I feel that way with seascapes sometimes.
Nice job great vid! 😎
Another interesting 'play' with the Nettar. Mine is loaded but I ain't daft enough to venture out in the storms.
Look forward to your thoughts on the Kodak camera.
Great video, have a Nettar but it has some fungus in the front element, going to give it a blast anyway to see how it performs. Love the relaxed approach, it makes the viewing very comfortable!
Have a look at a channel called "The Photographers Bag" He tackles those problems Shaun.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Will do thank you, looking forwards to looking at your extended content on Patreon, keep up the good work.
Please always watch Your fingers! I saw the Velbon D-700 ;-) . That can be a bloody beast, outch.
What...... No whistling in this one?? Love the storm pics bud :-)
Ha ha. I do silent whistle a lot!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :-D
After seeing your video, I'd recommend contacting CAT LABS... that is a problem at MANUFACTURE. Might be a problem with one of their machines. Definitely not your fault.
Love seeing what you can do with your Zeiss. I have a Netar, Netax and a Zeiss Super. Only problem is Which one do I use!
All of them :)
6x6 is the way I go, Keiv 6c, Rolleicord Va and a Seagull 4bi.
I have a Weston 111 meter.
I like HP5 and Tri x
I use a 1950s Gnome rangefinder Alpha condenser enlarger with a Schneider Componon S 100mm f5.6 lens.
Nice prints there. I like it that you film in the darkroom while working. Keep it up.
More old camera videos please, they all give an interesting arty look.
A lot of people rate those meters very much.
I need to buy a 6x6 camera but just have some cash saved for a intrepid 4x5 first then ill get a 6x6.
Shanghai Gp-3 is notorious for quality control problems. I got 10 or more rolls of 120 and over 200 sheets of 4x5 that are unusable. Pin holes, backing paper numbers bleeding through.
Ouch! Did you get replacement?
Do you shoot your b&w thru a yellow, orange or red filter? That should give you a more contrasty neg for those landscapes. You could also rate the film at a higher speed (1 or 2 stops) and compensate by increasing the development time; that can help too. Apologies if you already know all this. I sometimes rate Delta 100 at +1 stop in flat light with good results and negligible loss of image quality.
I have no filters for that Zeiss Mike. I'd have probably gone for Red or Orange with that blue sky had I had a filter.
Holes in film look like star wheel marks, definately a manufacturing defect. It might be worth checking the shutter accuracy of the Nettar. I use a phone app for metering all the time and I get decent exposures. Great video again and I love seeing the coast.
Good video again!
Have you had any damaged Shanghai Film eversince?
I'm wondering if the shutter speeds on your camera are accurate - that might be the issue with the overexposure as opposed to the light meter app on your phone??
Edwin1947D i second this!
Exactly what I was thinking.
Deco suspect shutter. Phone app usually pretty good
I did wonder that also. Thanks,.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I bought the Nettar after watching you last summer, love the camera. I also had over exposure using 2 different iphone apps that suggested the same settings, as much as 2 stops on my negs. Gonna continue using the app and adjust. Great work mate
For black and white, a phone should be plenty accurate.
Question is if you are using it right? Are you measuring for middle gray?
Measure off the palm of your hand, or wet sand in this case, for incident metering.
I spotted for the sky, then the dark sands and met my exposure in the middle.
Great video -- love seeing you shoot and print. And sometimes your familiar surroundings can produce great images -- as you showed us! Question -- what is the rangefinder atop your Zeiss?
Thanks Aengus. It's a ROWI Rangefinder for focusing. I use it to focus on a subject and it gives me the distance so I then dial that distance into the camera.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss -- right -- I have a cool vintage rangefinder that is similar and is really accurate under 20 feet, but not over 20 feet -- as I have a lot of vintage non-rangefinder (so viewfinder) cameras. I often have to remember the hyperfocal distance for those cameras and use that for most photos where the subject is beyond the accuracy of my add-on rangefinder. Looks like that is a vintage RF also (and hard to find) -- do you know the age?
@@aengusmacnaughton1375 I used to shoot without it but it's been invaluable for my Zeiss!
Excellent Job
Thanks Mas
Thank you for the mention. That was exciting when I saw my name lol :)
Keep vloggin' 👍
may be a piece of sand or two rolled into film canester.check the inside of camera and find it.perhaps it might help.
I love your videos!
In my experience there's not a lot wrong with phone apps for exposure, but if you want a handheld then something like the Sekonic L308 should serve you well. Even older school would be a Weston Master V with the invercone of course. They do give you more street cred (or is it beach cred?)
Hello, I have a question: can I reuse the stop bath and the fixer for printing? Btw I have just discovered your channel and I have been binging your videos.I love them all :)
Yes you can. Bottle them up after a darkroom session. I use indicator stop bath which goes purple once it is no longer effective. Fixer. That's another story. You'll only know once your final print starts to discolour, and that can take time to notice. So I usually change my fixer after a couple of darkroom sessions. The more you print you'll know when to change chems.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Ok, thank you so much!
@nin lat Thank you, I will keep that in mind
As I've mentioned in other videos, I love my Zeiss Ikon Nettar, great "little" medium format camera! That's a pity for the perforation in the negatives, hopefully won't happen again.
Looking forward for the images taken with the Kodak soldier camera. Is it an Autographic model?
Maybe it would be an interesting video how you look for a light meter. Your way, opinion, why, ... . Love your channel btw
Agree with below, they are caused by pressure when the film has been made at the manufactures, as the film length gets thicker as its wound on the pressure is not enough to affect the later frames
Interesting. All the signs were there. I just didn't notice when I was loading the film. So tiny on that black paper backing.
Commercial Cameras in Church Stretton have a good deal on light meters.
Thanks Stephen. I'll have a look!
Best meter for film (in my opinion) Gossen Lunasix F. Think on tho but, those old cameras, the Ikon etc may have inaccurate shutters. Actually not may, more like will!
Hi , still having and using the same camera. Received from my father 53 years ago. Damned good lens on it ! What's the lightmeter on the top of it?
It's a rangefinder attachment Philippe. for focusing
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I know what a viewfinder is ,I've got one but I've never heard about it and never seen it as an accessoire.What's the name of this?
@@poulouseaweed It's a ROWI Rangefinder.
Have you contacted Catlabs about your problem ,they might have a fault with there manufacturing. I had a similar problem with 120 film from cinestill (colored dots on my negatives) ,contacted them and was send a replacement rol (they said there had been a problem in there manufacturing ).
I have not yet no. I wasn't going to. Surely they would have a quality control check in place to find a manufacturing machine fault?
Hey mate, always enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing your experiences with the rest of us. I agree that it would be worth you owning a good light meter and I wanted to put in my 2 bob about incident VS reflected or spot meters. For the type of shooting you do I think a spot meter would be far more effective. The spot meter reads the light the camera sees so by pointing it at different parts of your intended composition, you can measure the overall dynamic range of a scene and then make very accurate and easy choices about where you want different parts to fall on the scale of greys. An incident meter seems to be easier to come by and possibly a bit cheaper but I have found that it gives little actual information about how a given negative will look because it doesn't account for the reflectance and relative brightnesses of the subject you are shooting. For studio strobes I would say the incident meter is the go but I don't believe you are shooting in that manner on a regular basis. All the best with your photography ☺️👍
Agreed I'd need a spot. I usually use my DSLR for spot metering but it's a pain to take out when shooting film especially when I'm vlogging too! Thanks for the info Dav!
Shoot Film Like a Boss that's a good way to do it with the dslr! I have a Nikon dslr and a 200mm lens so I might have to give that a go. Does it work pretty well?
@@davyboyo they have accurate meters as you know and also you can see in the DSLR screen how the light is falling. Like film in the old days and having a poloroid back. I try to venture without it though. Extra weight and all
Shoot Film Like a Boss bit heavy but I'll give it a try just for the sake. All the best mate 👍
Hi just wondering if you do not mind sharing where are you buying your cardboard frames i could see my matt printouts framed in something similar :) thank you :D
I cut them myself from framers mat board.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you :) will try it myself :)
Hi Roger, I just purchased a Ikon Nettar with a 75mm, I saw you in this video with that shoe viewfinder on the top. Does it works this kind of viewfinder with any kind of lens of does it have to match with the focal of the lens in the camera? Thanks in advance
It just tells you how many feet or meters a subject is from the camera. You dial that distence in on the lens you have. It'll work.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok, it make sense. thanks
Send the film and the backing back to the maker, explaining the problem, likely they will send a new roll and maybe a couple of more to test when they find out what an influential member of the photo community you are. You have people trying cameras though would never have tried before, case in point ----- Just yesterday i picked up a Foldex camera at the local goodwill store, it is in nice shape seems to work well and has an an Ultra fast Steinhail 1:6.3 mm lens, Film should be here next week. we have a mountain man Rondevous at our gun club next weekend, everyone dresses like the 1820's fur trade era. it should make for some interesting photographs.
Where can we see the images from the Gun Club?
I will see if I can post them on the club website, otherwise i will put them on my channel, which I don't use for much anyhow , that way I can narrate the pictures.. it's a three day even 14th 15th 16th, of feb I won't have pictures ready until the next weekend, I hope! I tore my rotator cuff (surgery coming soon) so i likely won't be shooting so that will give me more time for picture taking.
www.ccrpclub.org is the gun club by the way.
@@imjusttoodissgusted5620 Looks like the Wild West!
I broke my Kodak Soldier Vest camera almost straight after buying it :((( belonged to a Brit officer in WW1!
Beautiful prints there! Sad that something went wrong with the film!
Also, I wonder how do you flatten your fibre paper?
The Ilford fibre I use I hang all four corners then flatten in heavy books once dry. I've also ironed them between photo matt board! There is lots of ways people flatten them James.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks :)
When you meter with the phone app, do you spot meter the highlight and shadow areas and decide the exposure yourself or do you use average metering and just use that? Also, thank you for all of your great content, I have been inspired and learned so much watching your videos, cheers.
Normally I'd spot highlights and shadows and take an average. Sometimes I'll take a highlight reading and close down a couple stops. This time my phone app calibration was out
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you.
Only good thing about those pit holes is that if you digitize them you can edit the spots out with photoshop
Yeah, manufacturing defects aren't that common but that sure looks like something went wrong in the packaging. I think it's a Chinese manufactured film, which isn't a byword for quality, but it's still usually ok. That's too bad though. If you're looking for meters, the Sekonic 398 is a great incident meter, no batteries, handles low light, if you watch for them you can usually find one cheap. Spot meters are always good, Pentax are the best but you'll pay for it, especially the digital ones. You can find good deals on the Soligor ones, the sensor II and the digital both use 9v, and if you're willing to put up with the zinc-air batteries the sensor I (gray metal bodied) meters are a really good value.
Its not chinese made. Its actually US made.
It’s just Shanghai GP3 100 rebranded
Yep, that's what it says on the backing. It's not a bad film either.
Hi! Would you mind sharing what's the rangefinder on top of the camera? Thanks!
Sure. It's a ROWI rangefinder.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss it really suits this camera. Thanks!
Hey, quick question: what's the difference between split grading (ie with 0 and 5) and using contrast filters in the middle of the spectrum?
Google is your frienamy, the basic principle is to selectively use the high and low contrast emulsions that VC paper is coated with ie grade 5 on the sky, grade 1 on the foreground and maybe another grade on some midtones.
@@metrik2148 That's not what I asked for at all and lazily referencing google is less then helpful.
@@JonnyRobbie that answer is what you asked for, a half cocked answer for a half cocked question. Had you done even the slightest amount of critical thinking you would have found the solution to your query.
I often start all my tests with a 2.5 Filter as my standard filter using Multigrade paper. If I need more Contrast and If I'm lucky I can simply split my time from the 2.5 filter tests using grade zero and grade 5 to get a punchier looking print. (If at 10seconds with 2.5 filter the test print looks okay but lacks contrast I can then Split times and use 5s grade 0 and 5s grade 5). If you are still not happy with the contrast try using the other filters. Use 1 instead of 0. Or a bit more time on grade five. It's all trail and error until you are happy with your contrast on your print Jonny.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok, then. I'm wondering how you chose between doing split grading and between using a single precisely graded filter? If you need punchier print, why not use single grade 3 or 3.5 filter? If you know, what I mean.
Also wanted to thank for you videos, Roger, they're always nice.
There was a rumour that earlier releases of that film suffered from "backing paper inprinting". I never knew exactly what that meant but I wonder if this is it? It's enough for me to stick with my staples (Ilford etc). Great video though mate. Always enjoy your work.
TED SMITH it’s Shanghai GP3 rebranded. They use some shitty paper and if it still long enough the UV rays will imprint the text from the crap paper onto the film.
The WB photo free light meter app is prity accurate even when I compare the readings on my Nikon D850.
hi, what is the best medium format camera with a high dynamic range for you?
It's not the camera Arif. It's the film choice.
You won't regret investing in a good quality spot meter, the creative freedom it affords will make you wonder why you waited so long.
I can personally recommend the Minolta Spotmeter F or M, the Pentax models are good but overpriced in my opinion as the same price will fetch you a modern digital spot meter. Either way just get one!!
Thanks Metrik!
I have had that many times, no idea what causes it. Makes me nuts because it's been 120, 35mm... usually on my older cameras. Never had it on my EOS camera or more modern SLRs, just the old old ones..
But even then, almost like at random, because I can shoot a dozen rolls in one, maybe one will have that issue.. Frustrating.
Wow. I've never seen it before.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The worst experience I had was with Shanghai GP3 film. It's abysmal film. Great tones, don't get me wrong. But the QC is so bad.
Machine marks that are impossible to deal with on the actual film; The first few sheets were fine, no issues on them.. Then after that, this
flic.kr/p/ff4NYQ
Missing emulsion about a half inch from side, plus another half inch (inch) of antihalation layer on it as well.
Tool marks down that side where no emulsion and machine marks across the centre... I had it so often I took a few sheets out of the box to inspect, very clear that it was from factory. That's what I saw with your CATLABS film as well, it clearly had damage from factory. It was in the exact same spot, which means it happened while the machine was making the rolls.
There's a whole thread over at photrio about issues with that brand - mostly reports of the film separating from its backing paper and bunching up inside Bronica and Hasselblad backs. Your pinholes would be a new issue, but not that unexpected given that they seem to have a history of quality issues when it comes to finishing the film.
I love the idea of new film brands making their way to the market, but unfortunately a fair share of them are either released prematurely (and suffer from quality issues) or are just blatant rebrandings of existing films.
They dont really have any issues. Its just the usual people getting the one of 2 odd ball rolls and making a big deal about it.
I did get a defective ilford film batch once. Just once. But ive shot catlabs in 4x5 and 35mm
1) That film that you had used had to be dropped or squeezed while still in the packing or durning the production.
2) Sometimes that Zeiss pops out on my local Craigs list. However, that camera is 6x6 and I'm not a fan of square negatives. Plaubel Makina would make my heart sing. But to be able to buy one of those I'd had to sell one of my kidneys 🤣
I’ve seen that some people have had issues with catlabs films in large format, relating to imperfections in the film from factories. Might be worth contacting them about it
Negative. Ive shot to date 6 boxes without any issues.
17:48 yeah....thats why germans wear rubber boots at north sea :)
I definitely have to agree with Blia 100. The perforation issue definitely looks like a manufacturing defect that Catlabs should be advised of. I have 3 Zeiss Ikon Nettars and the worst I have ever experienced is scratches from the paint on the inside of the film door flaking off after 50 years.
By the way:
Getting bored by your environment can be altered by changing objects. Landscapes consist of an agglomeration of millions of beautiful details that scream for being photographed too...
Roger, playing in the surf is not clever! No photo is worth risking a change of underwear for.
Ha Ha, It wasn't that bad. Just came up to my ankles. Cheers Jim.