If it helps, PAC makes a harness so you don’t have to tap any wires. You can run all 4 channels plus a sub channels. Also has remote power and ground if you are using a LOC.
Great install. I have a 2019 Rav4 that I added an Alpine sub and amp to the factory radio. Instead of the LC2i (which I used for an Accord), I have the Kicker KEY-LOC instead. I found that Toyota’s radio doesn’t have the bass roll off that Honda has. But Toyota does attenuate super low bass frequencies at all volumes. I installed the LC2i at first, but it didn’t fix my problem. It just amped up the midbass very well but no low bass. The Kicker KeyLOC takes the facorry signal and flattens it out. This in turn boosted my low bass signal before going to the amp. The bass quality difference is night and day. I suggest drop that in as an experiment. Youll be amazed. Btw, Im not paid by Kicker, just impressed with their product!
Very nice! I actually just sold the 12w7 today and have been running a 13w7 for a few weeks. Now time to upgrade to a 1200HD amp. I honestly was thinking of going with an aftermarket head unit, but may try your way first to see if I can get even cleaner sound.
Thank you. I appreciate the work and information you did here. I ended up using the JL500/1 for my install and did not need the line level processor. The JL has enough input sensitivity to process the high level input without a problem.
helpful for novices. Good job. Really important safety piece you missed IMO. Put a fuse block close to the battery on the 4 Gauge Power wire going to the amp.
Thanks so much for this video. I will be using the Kicker 46CXA800.1T mono block amp which I think it’s more than sufficient power for an open back SUV. Also this Amp has Built in High input connections saving the need for extra adapters. I’ve used this before and they are actually very good. I will be using a size 12” sub 2 ohm DVC Kicker Sub in a Sealed box and wire it to get a 1ohm impedance to be able to pull the 800w out of the Amp as per kicker spec. This awesome Video is what I needed to help me get started.
Could you explain the steps you took to ground the amplifier? I see the ground point under the passenger seat. I know you scuffed the surfaced up, but What screw/bolt did you use to fasten it? AMAZING VIDEO BTW!! EXACTLY WHAT I'VE BEEN SEARCHING FOR!
Thanks so much! The internet was missing this one. I wish I knew the size, but I would start with buying a few metric bolts maybe an inch long. They are just $.25 or so each. 12mm x 1.25 maybe? I happened to have one laying around in my toolbox that worked and didn't have to do a Home Depot run
Great video, very thorough. My amp and LOC are in my trunk so I had to improvise while running wires but the power works perfect. Has anyone else noticed any of the door speakers distorting after splicing into the head unit? My backseat doors are clipping at mid-high volume now so I’m not sure where I went wrong but I’ll update once I find a solution.
Update: it was a classic grounding problem. Plugged everything back in correctly after sanding the paint off and the distortion disappeared. Thanks again for the help!
I literally have the same baby seat in my 4runner 😅 my only suggestion is don't have the power cable and audio cables running the same side the power will Interfere with the quality
Instead of the military splice why not use quick connect snap splice lock so there is never any wire exposed and you dont have to cut or solder anything?
I appreciate that, glad you liked it. Here is a more detailed discussion on your question. Let me know if I can help further: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/252841-factory-speaker-resistance.html
@@BtwilliasGarage Thanks man, appreciate the link. Just joined that forum a month ago. So it’s parallel in the front and series in the rear. No wonder why my rear door speakers and the hatch sound so weak. They are running at 8 ohms, while the front gets 2 ohms.
So the speaker wire length I use for my line out converter doesn’t matter? It’s easier for me to tap into the head unit and run the wires back to my line out converter than to tap into my rear speakers which are annoying to get to.
@@M3DINA187 good question. I did front and rears in case I use the LC2i Pro for door speakers in the future. Which I need honestly, especially after upgrading the box from this video. Short answer...yes, you can tap the speaker signal wherever you want and that you feel is easiest. Just be sure to get the left and right correct so that songs and movies play properly as the sound is influenced one way or another
Wassup brotha! My Gen5 is fully deadened, my 3k watt sub still vibrates the rear window a little weird depending on the song. Do you know how to stop this? Nothing else rattles or shakes accept the rear window but it’s just barely lol
So I still could not find a diagram, since I installed all new door speakers and hatch speakers I tapped into the door speakers, since I already know which ones are negative and positive!
Yeah, so many steps are skipped it's not even funny. Seriously not even funny. You just took pictures if the entire process not showing how to do anything. Theeeeen you had some autoshop dude do the rest of the job for you and still skipped steps. Hooooooow
What did I miss? This is literally the best video on RUclips for this project. If you can't figure it out with this then you need to find a reputable shop to go to
@@commenthero2514 lol ok brother. I literally showed it working before I went to the shop. Hard to film and do the wire tucking at once. Thanks for watching and good luck
@@BtwilliasGarage this is the only video on RUclips I have no where else to troll lol. I'm half way done, I'll go through what issues I ran into, and how I overcame them in a update comment. It's my first time ever doing something like this, so any detail that gets skipped hurts alot. There's too much information online sometimes, and it makes it hard to find answers. Sorry I was so hostile, but I'm sure this video helps alot for people who've done work like this, but as a brand new newbie this shit makes me wanna stroke out lmao
anyone super new to this, so i found the wiring diagram in another youtube video. ruclips.net/video/ASLwZ3gIOb8/видео.htmlsi=EfbQsIzWgFV5OAEV this is where you'll plug up the line converter. what i did was tapped into the left and right speaker wires first. then tapped into that tiny grey wire as a 12v, usually a blue wire on the converter. double check your product though. after you plug up that line converter using the video i linked, everything else in this video pretty much explains everything. i didnt drill a hole for the bass volume knob. mine didnt come with one, it's app controlled, and you can add a knob later on. dont feel its a need, more of a want, so you guys can completely skip that. save you from having to dig under your steering wheel, and more complicated wiring. at least complicated to me a newbie. it is convenient though. legit, once you have that line converter hooked up to your head unit plug up everything else, and TEST IT BEFORE PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER, AND HIDING THE WIRES!!!! i didnt make that mistake, but i have on other projects lol. if anyone has any questions holla at me, and i'll break it down into every tiny detail. took me 5 hours to fucking install this shit. if i were to do it again i promise it'd take an hour tops. GOOD LUCK! IF MY DUMBASS CAN DO IT, YOU CAN TOO! check out my other comments on this video to see my frustration lmao sorry williasgarage.
@@BtwilliasGarage did it all by myself without having to take it to a shop 🤣 mea while you drove how far to have it finished for you? I have hands in experience you had your buddy do it.
If it helps, PAC makes a harness so you don’t have to tap any wires. You can run all 4 channels plus a sub channels. Also has remote power and ground if you are using a LOC.
THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE TO KNOW WEEKS AGO! Lol just kidding. Great tip thank you for sharing
@@BtwilliasGarage Yeah I was a little late on that one😂😂
Link??
Whats the harness do you have a link ?
@@JustDrewski
PAC LPHTY01 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
Great install. I have a 2019 Rav4 that I added an Alpine sub and amp to the factory radio. Instead of the LC2i (which I used for an Accord), I have the Kicker KEY-LOC instead. I found that Toyota’s radio doesn’t have the bass roll off that Honda has. But Toyota does attenuate super low bass frequencies at all volumes. I installed the LC2i at first, but it didn’t fix my problem. It just amped up the midbass very well but no low bass.
The Kicker KeyLOC takes the facorry signal and flattens it out. This in turn boosted my low bass signal before going to the amp. The bass quality difference is night and day. I suggest drop that in as an experiment. Youll be amazed. Btw, Im not paid by Kicker, just impressed with their product!
Very nice! I actually just sold the 12w7 today and have been running a 13w7 for a few weeks. Now time to upgrade to a 1200HD amp. I honestly was thinking of going with an aftermarket head unit, but may try your way first to see if I can get even cleaner sound.
Thank you. I appreciate the work and information you did here. I ended up using the JL500/1 for my install and did not need the line level processor. The JL has enough input sensitivity to process the high level input without a problem.
I appreciate the kind feedback! Glad you are happy with your new setup!
helpful for novices. Good job. Really important safety piece you missed IMO. Put a fuse block close to the battery on the 4 Gauge Power wire going to the amp.
Good point. I did that on my side, but didn't highlight it. Thanks for the feedback
He did mention it briefly but that's really a very basic install tip. I feel like this video is for people with at least a little experience
Exactly what I was looking for…thank you.!!
Wish I had it a few months ago haha. Good luck!
Thanks so much for this video. I will be using the Kicker 46CXA800.1T mono block amp which I think it’s more than sufficient power for an open back SUV. Also this Amp has Built in High input connections saving the need for extra adapters. I’ve used this before and they are actually very good. I will be using a size 12” sub 2 ohm DVC Kicker Sub in a Sealed box and wire it to get a 1ohm impedance to be able to pull the 800w out of the Amp as per kicker spec. This awesome Video is what I needed to help me get started.
Thank you and good luck with the install!
Could you explain the steps you took to ground the amplifier? I see the ground point under the passenger seat. I know you scuffed the surfaced up, but What screw/bolt did you use to fasten it?
AMAZING VIDEO BTW!! EXACTLY WHAT I'VE BEEN SEARCHING FOR!
Thanks so much! The internet was missing this one. I wish I knew the size, but I would start with buying a few metric bolts maybe an inch long. They are just $.25 or so each. 12mm x 1.25 maybe? I happened to have one laying around in my toolbox that worked and didn't have to do a Home Depot run
Awesome!! This helped a ton.
Right on brother! Enjoy the upgrade
Great video man
Thank you sir
Great video, very thorough. My amp and LOC are in my trunk so I had to improvise while running wires but the power works perfect. Has anyone else noticed any of the door speakers distorting after splicing into the head unit? My backseat doors are clipping at mid-high volume now so I’m not sure where I went wrong but I’ll update once I find a solution.
I appreciate the compliment! I hope you get your problem sorted. I did not lose any quality or have distortion after tapping in
Update: it was a classic grounding problem. Plugged everything back in correctly after sanding the paint off and the distortion disappeared. Thanks again for the help!
@@thepunksandwich8888 very nice! Enjoy the new system!
I literally have the same baby seat in my 4runner 😅 my only suggestion is don't have the power cable and audio cables running the same side the power will Interfere with the quality
Instead of the military splice why not use quick connect snap splice lock so there is never any wire exposed and you dont have to cut or solder anything?
Absolutely, good idea. That's a good route to go, but mine worked and is problem free for months now
@@BtwilliasGarageI feel it, I was just curious.. I appreciate the time and knowledge you shared with us brother 🙏🏻
Hey, good video! Where did you ground the amp in the rear though? I'm looking for a good spot and cannot find one.
I grounded under the passenger seat where there is a open pre drilled spot. I had a bolt that fit perfectly in my tool box laying around
@@BtwilliasGarage Thanks!, also what/where do you get those extra grommets from? Want to get some in case I ruin the one I got lol.
Great video man…I may have missed this in the video, but is front channels and rear channels wired in series on the non JBL 4Runner’s?
I appreciate that, glad you liked it. Here is a more detailed discussion on your question. Let me know if I can help further:
www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/252841-factory-speaker-resistance.html
@@BtwilliasGarage Thanks man, appreciate the link. Just joined that forum a month ago. So it’s parallel in the front and series in the rear. No wonder why my rear door speakers and the hatch sound so weak. They are running at 8 ohms, while the front gets 2 ohms.
@@damon323 no worries brother! Agreed, there is a lot of room for improvement over stock
Did you screw or double sided tape the fuse for your main power wire?
I just 3m double sided it. Appears to hold fine.
Did you reconnect that radio plug? Or did you leave it unplug???
Yeah just connect them all back
So the speaker wire length I use for my line out converter doesn’t matter?
It’s easier for me to tap into the head unit and run the wires back to my line out converter than to tap into my rear speakers which are annoying to get to.
@@M3DINA187 good question. I did front and rears in case I use the LC2i Pro for door speakers in the future. Which I need honestly, especially after upgrading the box from this video. Short answer...yes, you can tap the speaker signal wherever you want and that you feel is easiest. Just be sure to get the left and right correct so that songs and movies play properly as the sound is influenced one way or another
@@BtwilliasGarage thank you!
Thanks for the video
Hi Wongdering do you open to do some sponsorship with Auxbeam?Looking to send some of our lighting kits for your car!
No thank you, I'm good on light bulbs and lighting, but appreciate you reaching out
@@BtwilliasGarage No problem:) Just let us know if you need any lighting kits in your project. We're always open a partnership with you!
I appreciate that, thank you
Great writeup, I did a similar install with a JL 8" and my JL250 amp under the passenger seat, love the attention to detail!
Very nice choice. I really appreciate it!
Tell me, did you use a factory JBL box with the 8 inch JL sub?
Good write up. But you only need to run 2 speaker wires from a loc not 4.
I have a 2024 and I cannot find what wire to tap into behind the head unit.
Do you have a JBL OEM system?
@@BtwilliasGarageno jbl system
Wassup brotha! My Gen5 is fully deadened, my 3k watt sub still vibrates the rear window a little weird depending on the song. Do you know how to stop this? Nothing else rattles or shakes accept the rear window but it’s just barely lol
I have a 2019 limited and I have no plug that has any of those colors, I’m confused now
Is yours the JBL system?
@@BtwilliasGarage yes I have JBL!
@@Greezy.Gaming gotcha, I have not worked on those but bet you can find a diagram or photo of the ones you need to tap on a forum
Perfect! Thanks I also tried looking too, I’ll look some more
So I still could not find a diagram, since I installed all new door speakers and hatch speakers I tapped into the door speakers, since I already know which ones are negative and positive!
that solder job hurt my soul
Sorry brother
Yeah, so many steps are skipped it's not even funny. Seriously not even funny. You just took pictures if the entire process not showing how to do anything. Theeeeen you had some autoshop dude do the rest of the job for you and still skipped steps. Hooooooow
What did I miss? This is literally the best video on RUclips for this project. If you can't figure it out with this then you need to find a reputable shop to go to
@@BtwilliasGarage it's the only video on RUclips lololol.
Besides you took yours to a shop to have it finished. Soooooooo yeah. Here we are.
@@commenthero2514 lol ok brother. I literally showed it working before I went to the shop. Hard to film and do the wire tucking at once. Thanks for watching and good luck
@@commenthero2514 ps. I said best video on RUclips. Troll elsewhere 😁
@@BtwilliasGarage this is the only video on RUclips I have no where else to troll lol. I'm half way done, I'll go through what issues I ran into, and how I overcame them in a update comment. It's my first time ever doing something like this, so any detail that gets skipped hurts alot. There's too much information online sometimes, and it makes it hard to find answers. Sorry I was so hostile, but I'm sure this video helps alot for people who've done work like this, but as a brand new newbie this shit makes me wanna stroke out lmao
Bro you have to show the connections the the amp and the idiot control where did u connected the spiker wires
Do I rewire the audio from the audio control to the amp! Or just with the rca cables it’s fine
Do you already have RCA cables? The audio control box is what converts standard speaker wires to RCA
anyone super new to this, so i found the wiring diagram in another youtube video. ruclips.net/video/ASLwZ3gIOb8/видео.htmlsi=EfbQsIzWgFV5OAEV
this is where you'll plug up the line converter. what i did was tapped into the left and right speaker wires first. then tapped into that tiny grey wire as a 12v, usually a blue wire on the converter. double check your product though. after you plug up that line converter using the video i linked, everything else in this video pretty much explains everything.
i didnt drill a hole for the bass volume knob. mine didnt come with one, it's app controlled, and you can add a knob later on. dont feel its a need, more of a want, so you guys can completely skip that. save you from having to dig under your steering wheel, and more complicated wiring. at least complicated to me a newbie. it is convenient though. legit, once you have that line converter hooked up to your head unit plug up everything else, and TEST IT BEFORE PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER, AND HIDING THE WIRES!!!! i didnt make that mistake, but i have on other projects lol. if anyone has any questions holla at me, and i'll break it down into every tiny detail. took me 5 hours to fucking install this shit. if i were to do it again i promise it'd take an hour tops. GOOD LUCK! IF MY DUMBASS CAN DO IT, YOU CAN TOO! check out my other comments on this video to see my frustration lmao sorry williasgarage.
EVERYONE.. PLEASE BE SURE TO HIT THIS GUY UP!!! 😂
@@BtwilliasGarage did it all by myself without having to take it to a shop 🤣 mea while you drove how far to have it finished for you? I have hands in experience you had your buddy do it.
@commenthero2514 I am so proud of you. Great work!
So u slice only 4 cables? That’s all so that’s all we need for the subs and spikers only 4 cables someone help I’m trying to finish this today