Hello. I do have a video showing how I replace the bottom seal. The trick with the Wayne Dalton retainer is that there's a notch at each end. This notch needs to be filed down. It's not easy but it is doable.
@@sosgds I wish I would've just filed down those nubs on mine when I replaced my seal a couple years ago. It was a SERIOUS pain in the arse to replace that stupid seal. As it was, I spread the "tracks" at the ends where the nubs are, thinking that I could pinch them back together enough to hold the seal in place when I was done. Boy howdy was I wrong. I did it on the door though so next time (if I don't just 86 the entire door first) I'll pull the retainer off completely and hammer the ends closed against my anvil.
Thanks for the video and for the link to the weather seal. Do you have a part number or link for the retainer? I can't seem to find this part, and Wayne Dalton Support/Customer service is very poor and no help at all. My retainer is all rusted out and if I have to replace this door, I won't be going back to a WD product.
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. This is such a challenge. Mainly because Wayne Dalton should be able to offer this product to their customers. What city/state are you located?
Hello. The seal should be available online. Unfortunately the metal retainer is not easily accessible. You might be able to reach out to a local dealer that might be able to sell you the seal with the retainer.
So, in other words you need to purchase the entire metal Wayne Dalton bottom garage door seal that already has the rubber gasket in it due to the crimped threading channels on the metal bracket. One of the two channels does not have a crimp in it and the replacement gasket slides on easily. The problem is the crimped channel that will not allow the gasket to pass more than an inch. This is extremely frustrating and I have been searching on line for a solution. Shoving a screwdriver into the channel as was suggested in another video does not work. Your solution to avoid the threading headache was to purchase a brand new metal Wayne Dalton channel at a more expensive cost than the $20 gasket? Is this the only solution???
Hello. Yes there is a solution. You can use a drill bit to flatten the crimped portion of the retainer. Just be very careful not to puncture thru the door.
@@sosgds I'm dealing with this now. Are you saying to use the drill bit to carve out the metal that's inside the channel, like finding the bit that is the size of the channel and carving it out so there is no more crimped metal. Or are you saying to drill a hole in the crimped part? Once you get the new one on, how do you secure it so it doesn't slide around, since you don't want to crimp the metal like it was done originally?
@@1simple Hello. What I use is a thin circular file to grind out as best as possible the crimp in the retainer. With a needle file and 18 volt drill I just work through the crimp till it's smooth as possible. Here's a link of what that needle file you can use: amzn.to/3Dc0WKm To secure the bottom seal I simply tuck in the excess at the ends and it should stay put for a long time. Hope this helps.
@@sosgds Thanks. Before you commented, I tried a drill metal capable bit, one that would easily fit into the non crimped channel and that worked great! Just an FYI.
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Where did you buy the retainer. I tried on internet and could not get any good link.
Nice! Thank you! My local Wayne Dalton dealer would not replace the seal! Told me I had to replace the door! Thank you again!
Would be nice to see how you were able to get the seal back into the track.
Hello. I do have a video showing how I replace the bottom seal. The trick with the Wayne Dalton retainer is that there's a notch at each end. This notch needs to be filed down. It's not easy but it is doable.
@@sosgds I wish I would've just filed down those nubs on mine when I replaced my seal a couple years ago. It was a SERIOUS pain in the arse to replace that stupid seal. As it was, I spread the "tracks" at the ends where the nubs are, thinking that I could pinch them back together enough to hold the seal in place when I was done. Boy howdy was I wrong. I did it on the door though so next time (if I don't just 86 the entire door first) I'll pull the retainer off completely and hammer the ends closed against my anvil.
Removing the spring tension would be wildly unnecessary for this job. The use of vice grips is a high value pro tip.
Thanks for this video!
Any way I can retrofit my garage door gasket with the “T” channel U + O ring type. The bead type seems weak and lets in water
I don’t have a garage door but if I did I would use your videos for guidance.
Sir could you please inform me exactly where to place the each pair of locking pliers?
Basically anywhere between a set of rollers so the door doesn't come down.
Maybe this is a stupid question, but am I supposed to detach the door from the drive chain before this repair?
Thanks for the video and for the link to the weather seal. Do you have a part number or link for the retainer? I can't seem to find this part, and Wayne Dalton Support/Customer service is very poor and no help at all. My retainer is all rusted out and if I have to replace this door, I won't be going back to a WD product.
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. This is such a challenge. Mainly because Wayne Dalton should be able to offer this product to their customers. What city/state are you located?
@@sosgds Hi, I am in Palatine, Illinois.
Where can you find the weather seal kit used in your video ? The link you provided to amazon doesn't match what you used in your video .
Hello. The seal should be available online. Unfortunately the metal retainer is not easily accessible. You might be able to reach out to a local dealer that might be able to sell you the seal with the retainer.
Nice job
Thanks Cody!!!!
Where can I buy a new retainer?
Depending where you live, Wayne Dalton sells it from their distribution centers.
How do I buy a bottom retainer
Hello. Does Wayne Dalton sell parts in your local area?
I am located in Illinois, Chicago
So, in other words you need to purchase the entire metal Wayne Dalton bottom garage door seal that already has the rubber gasket in it due to the crimped threading channels on the metal bracket. One of the two channels does not have a crimp in it and the replacement gasket slides on easily. The problem is the crimped channel that will not allow the gasket to pass more than an inch. This is extremely frustrating and I have been searching on line for a solution. Shoving a screwdriver into the channel as was suggested in another video does not work. Your solution to avoid the threading headache was to purchase a brand new metal Wayne Dalton channel at a more expensive cost than the $20 gasket? Is this the only solution???
Hello. Yes there is a solution. You can use a drill bit to flatten the crimped portion of the retainer. Just be very careful not to puncture thru the door.
@@sosgds I'm dealing with this now. Are you saying to use the drill bit to carve out the metal that's inside the channel, like finding the bit that is the size of the channel and carving it out so there is no more crimped metal. Or are you saying to drill a hole in the crimped part? Once you get the new one on, how do you secure it so it doesn't slide around, since you don't want to crimp the metal like it was done originally?
@@1simple Hello. What I use is a thin circular file to grind out as best as possible the crimp in the retainer. With a needle file and 18 volt drill I just work through the crimp till it's smooth as possible. Here's a link of what that needle file you can use: amzn.to/3Dc0WKm
To secure the bottom seal I simply tuck in the excess at the ends and it should stay put for a long time. Hope this helps.
@@sosgds Thanks. Before you commented, I tried a drill metal capable bit, one that would easily fit into the non crimped channel and that worked great! Just an FYI.
The only way to replace the infamous WD bottom seal, WITH RETAINER.
He likes to hear himself talk
"self-tapping" ≠ "self-drilling"