Would I stand a Chance in a Youth Competition? Analytic Bouldering
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- Опубликовано: 5 апр 2024
- There's some really good comp boulders in the Newton Kapfenberg right now...
Would I stand a chance in a Youth Competition? Analytic Bouldering by Mani the Monkey
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comp climber mani arc is pretty cool
Man, so glad to see the original OG making vids! When are the arm-lifting vids coming out?
Glad you enjoy, what are arm-lifting vids? :D
Nice climbing, useful comments. Thanks!
Awesome as always
Thanks!
thanks for this energetic video
I wonder if 3rd to last problem was meant to be a left hand press into the bottom of the terrible sloper and then right hand bump to the finish hold.
Maybe. You would need strong support from your feet though, which I somehow couldn't create. Maybe through a weird heel-toe hook combo or something.
Nice. I like the content. Inspires to pump hard.
Glad to hear that king let's go swole!
Warning : long story. But i could be worth your time ! Context : climber since 15 years, both outdoors and indoors, routes and boulders. i'm 35. When comp styles movements started to arrive first in competition, and then in gyms, i was pissed. I was pretty vocal about it, i didn't think it was real climbing, the usual rant.
Then i started setting routes and boulder, i started climbing in more gyms than i was used to (meaning, instead of climbing in only one gym, i've had opportunities climbing in loads of different gyms, from time to time). The fact that i started setting with an ex pro climber played a huge role in that.
Before, i thought that those moves were flashy looking, for sure, but weren't really useful for the vast majority of cases in climbing. Setters are forcing them by tuning endlessely the moves until that is the only way of doing it. I also thought that unless you trained a lot for it, you couldn't even try them, which made them very uninteresting for someone without proper technique.
Boy, was i wrong !
I started doing those boulders in gyms, completely by ego : it's pretty frustrating flashing some of the hardest color graded boulders and not move in some that are middle range. So i tried anyway, and i learned. I learned those presses, those step to step, those "rainbow rocket" style boulders, etc. The very first thing that came to my mind was "holy hell how fun is that". Really. it's like dynos, or a new skateboard trick, or surf figure, whatever. Super strong feeling of accomplishement. And the good part about it is that once you start having the basics, like with any technique, you start being able to apply it to harder versions of it. I also realized that i actually am pretty good at that style (which should have been obvious to me, but i was blind because scared !). And i started being able to do those boulders or routes that included these new kind of moves.
In my local gym, where we have a group training young strong climbers, i also felt pretty cool being able to share their boulders or work routes with them. it's super cool feeling being part of their comp world (even if you dont compete yourself) by climbing with them. it's also pretty cool seing differences in styles (i usually crush them at any route including crimps or endurance management, but can be beaten on slopers presses or dynos pretty easily !) and spending time on the same stuff.
Last weekend, i went to a gym and was able to do two boulders, coordination style, hardest color of the gym. And i realized that if i hadn't started learning that 3/4 years ago, i would have been slowly limited to less and less boulders or routes in gyms. Because, truly, we will have more and more new styles to come.
So that's my vision of it : we all know those "old climbers" that never climb the big overhangs. Or never dyno anything. You know, kinda grumpy sometimes, generally looking for crimps and pinches in vertical or slightly overhaning terrain ;) Well, i was on the path of becoming this grumpy climber for younger generations, i'm afraid. I will make sure that it doesn't happen in the future.
By the way, i still think that's it's unlikely that those very coordinated movements will be the best path outdoors. you do have to tune them very finely to make them work. However, i said unlikely, not impossible, and working those moves actually helps you in areas very much relevant to climbing : body positionning, momentum management, risk aversion, and so on.
read it all, good points!
Cheers!
You didn't answer the initial question, would you have stood a chance in the comp? Would you have placed?
Hard to tell, but I guess no (: Because there are many more boulders to try and I gassed out relatively quickly in this style.
@@ManitheMonkey Dang, it could be cool to do a simulated comp like that though.
The real challenge is not to laugh during this.
What do you even mean