Building custom exterior doors with Festool Domino XL and Festool OF2200 router
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Shop-built custom exterior doors using douglas fir lumber and marine-grade plywood with lots of detail on tools and techniques, including Festool Domino XL 700, Festool OF2200 router, Festool TS75 track saw, Hammer K3 Winner saw, and Dewalt cordless trim router.
This is part of the Garden Shed build project. A series of videos explaining the various phases of constructing your own small structure.
Links to helpful RUclips videos:
• How to: built in TV wa...
• I Built A Solid Wood D...
• The Domino XL: Making ...
Liability waiver: Finishing Touch Carpentry and Scott Earl Smith assume no responsibility for the safe usage of tools, and general safety practices. This is not a safety video and all users should research their own safety techniques prior to attempting any of the techniques shown in this video.
Interesting. First joinery video I've seen using Festool gear. Till now, I'd assumed they were cabinet and furniture tools
The Domino XL 700 is really a good tool for joinery. You can get 14mmx140mm dominos that you could potentially use for very large builds - even timber frame stuff. Thanks for the comment.
I use 2200 pluged into Festool vacum C26
Interesting. I will give that a try. I have a CT36. Thank you for the information. Scott
I have to laugh when you say metric easier than imperial. I think you mean decimal vs fractions!. I worked in a machine shop and we worked in decimal imperial. No fractions 3.500 or.020 (20 thousands) and metric was the pain. +/- 1 thousands of an inch was a good tolerance, easy to use no thermal management required. but it is ,0394thousands to a mm so working to .1mm was 4 thousands, too sloppy and .01 is to precise. Our scales read 1 thru 10 for each inch as in 100 thousands or a tenth of an inch. Calipers or mics are 4 turns to that .100 or .025/turn. But I will admit now that I am into woodworking when people say 3/16 of an inch I think .187 of an inch
I never thought of it that way. Fractions definitely have their limitations once you start adding and subtracting them. I did a metric to imperial fraction conversion yesterday on my calculator and the answer came back with a 19/64 at the end. That's when my eyes glazed over as we simply dont work in 64ths as carpenters. Thanks for the comment.
I'm about to build something similar for MN climate (boat house doors). They are wider than they are tall (5' W x 4.25' T).
My plan was to use LP SMARTSIDE for the frame and HDO for the Panel. Do you think the Domino 500 is undersized for mortising the tenons? Unfortunately I don't own the Domino XL....
Hi Matt, The max depth on a Domino 500 is 28mm and you can use a 10mm domino. So that is decent (28mm in both pieces = 56mm domino). The XL gives you 14mm x70mm depth in each piece. So that is way bigger. But if the doors are for you go with the 500. Unless you want an excuse to buy a 700. My question is: will the doors need a diagonal brace for that width of door? Cheers, Scott
Am late to the dance anyway nice clear instructions question for you what type router bit did you use in in 2200 to make grooves for panals
Many thanks
Better late than never they say! Glad to have you aboard. Enjoy the channel. The bit I am using is a freud rabbeting bit set. Here is the link. Cheers Scott www.freudtools.com/products/32-522
Scott how have the held up? I’m planning on doing the same build. Has the rails and styles stayed stable? No bowing?
David, As of yesterday, they look really good. No complaints and they operate fine. It's been very humid here this fall and it looks like the doors are rubbing a bit where they meet, so I would leave a larger gap when I hang doors double doors. Thanks for reaching out, Scott
Great to hear! Thanks for the update!
@@davidiliyn You're welcome. Hope the project goes well! Scott
Отличная работа! Я учился и учусь по видео как наших, российских мастеров, так и много смотрю видео на английском языке. Спасибо за то, что делитесь своим опытом! Сегодня заказал себе Festool Domino 700. У нас он стоит безумных денег, но надеюсь окупится в работе! Это отличная техника сильно ускоряющая работу в столярной мастерской и делающей ее приятной. Здоровья Вам! И новых работ! (Коллега из России)))
You will enjoy your Domino 700. Our favourite tool in the shop. Once you get over the price you paid, you'll enjoy it for many years. I appreciate all your positive comments. Good luck with your work. Cheers Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC I think that's how it will be! Thank you! I enjoy watching your videos!
Well, that’s the first video of yours that has come up for me to watch. The first thing must be to congratulate you wholeheartedly for both the content and the presentation - both first class; maybe that’s because it’s senior to senior but I really enjoyed the pace and lack of gimmicks.
I’ve been a woodworker for over 45 years and so, most do the doors were made with M&T joints. I still have a great Morticer in the shop but the effort it requires to make the mortises is now really too much for the shoulders. So, it’s Domino time. I make my doors in virtually the same way as you do ( sometimes I use 3 slightly smaller dominos cut in a v shape but the amount of glue area is the critical thing).
I haven’t used slow cure epoxy on complex set ups; I’ve relied upon Titebond Extend but I’m soon to build 6 internal doors for our barn conversion and so I’m going to go West. These doors each have a fancy middle rail (shaped cloud lift as in Greene and Greene). It’s not hard to get the lower panel shaped to fit that curved groove using the cloud lift template as a guided. However, the top panel is a stained glass rectangle - which makes fitting it into the top edge of the curved cloud lift less than straight forward (no point in doing things that are easy). I’ve thought of a few ways to make the “mortises” in the stiles and curved rail but each one has positives and negatives. I’ll just make mock ups of each method and see which one works the best.
All the critical elements were clearly shown by you. Preparation and precision are the keys. Don’t rush and just keep thinking. The only poster I have in my shops is just 3 words Patience, Precision, Perfection. As my body slowly declines, my working days have to be shorter; if I try and push it, then the standard of work declines because I focus more on the aches and pains than what I’m doing.
Interested in your choice of pencil. It clearly does not impact upon the accuracy of your work but Im slightly more hung up about marking than you. For really precision work, I use a knife or perhaps a 0.5mm mechanical pencil. For joinery, I use constantly- sharpened 1 H or 2H pencils for marking and then a 2B for marking references (A and A, Left and Right or whatever). Your simplicity is attractive but I’m too old to change now.
Apologies for the long post but the main point is to congratulate you. From a new subscriber
No apologies necessary! This is awesome feedback. I love to hear about people's projects. It sounds like we are cut from the same cloth. (I have a picture of a sasquatch in my shop with the words "believe in yourself when no one else will.")
I made a nice craftsman-style end table years ago with more than a dozen M&T joints. It was satisfying to see it come together over the MONTHS it took to build. Now I'm more in the "get-r-done" mode. Although I marvel at guys that make the high-end furniture (I watch their videos) I'm not quite there with my patience level. When you build things for customers, time is money - and at least in my neck of the woods there's little market for really expensive pieces. I'd love to see that stained glass door when you're done. My email is scott@scottearlsmith.com.
As for pencils I was gifted a "FatBoy" pencil from FastCap.com and I'm using that now. You can sharpen that pencil to a fine point. I have a marking knife as well, and will be putting that to use. Most important to me is that I can SEE the mark. Again another indicator of being a more "mature" woodworker. Like you I really have to pace myself. My son occasionally will call and want to work with me in the shop at 8 or 9 pm after I've already clocked a long day. My answer is "not happening at this time of night."
I'm building a door this winter for my cabin on the lake and it will have glass in it. I like the idea of stained glass too, so maybe that's a possibility (will do a video on that build).
Even though the video production process is time consuming, I'm enjoying the process so there will be lots more to come. Glad to have you on board!
Nicely done Scott , it turned out great. Gee I'm glad I don't have to deal hanging doors in the snow!!
Thanks Joey. That means a lot coming from you. Yah, it was -15 when I hung those doors. Hard on the hands!
Hi! Nice video, do you have the link for your router bit for slot cutting? Thanks
Thank you! It's a Freud depth rabbeting bit with bearings. Here's the link. They also have this bit in 1/4" shank. Cheers, Scott www.freudtools.com/products/32-522
You might as well get a big drum sander and stick that whole door through it.
Would have one if I had the room. They're awesome.
Thank you for the advice and congrats on retirement!
My pleasure Alexander. And thank you for the retirement wishes!
Which red clamps are they please?
Those are Bessey K-body Revo clamps. Cheers, Scott
www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/bar/110648-bessey-k-body-revo-clamps
Why epoxy?
Primarily because of the longer working time. Up to an hour. Thanks for your question.
I’ve thought about buying that Festool slider but I don’t like the handle in that position. Prefer the Dewalt design.
Sorry I missed replying to this. What do you mean by a "slider?" Domino?
Nice build. I wonder, did you consider putting in spaceballs in the channels to keep it more in place during winter shifts? I've hand panels get detach from the caulk from excess movement. Trying not to go the full traditional route of weeping holes here.
I appreciate your compliment. Putting the spacers in wouldn't hurt. But since the panels were marine-grade plywood, and very stable, I didn't think it was necessary and may have added another complication to the assembly and glue up. I would certainly have used spacers if the panel was a solid wood glue up like a cabinet door. Thanks for your question. Good luck with your projects.
Great video, Scott! Just subscribed :)
Thanks David!! Appreciate very much.
Nice job on the doors. I’m actually gonna try and sell building a couple of them for interior barn doors that someone I know needs. Thanks
Excellent idea. I have heard from others that custom doors are selling well in many parts of the continent. Cheers, Scott
That shed looks Alsum.
Definitely the nicest shed on the block and possibly the city. Thanks for the compliment! Cheers, Scott
I really enjoyed watching the build Scott. Thanks for sharing your tips as well!
Thank you John. I appreciate the encouraging comment!
Just what I needed to help me decide to build by the front door of my home; I just need to purchase the Festool Domino XL; I have the DF 500 Domino. Would that work? Also, showing cutting in the hinges and lick set would be helpful. GREAT VIDEO!
Glad the video was inspiring. I would think the larger dominos in the 500 would be just fine for a door build. Here's a link to my video on drilling and hinging doors. ruclips.net/video/NtYMPjko_tA/видео.html
You can glue up plywood panels. Love the breathing during glue up I do the same thing ! 😂
Haha. Yes. Glue-ups are stressful for sure.
Your passion for wood working shows in your project. Thanks for sharing this great door build. I wish I had the money to buy the tools and shop to do what you're doing. Thanks
Thank you Mike. In my case it was a slow process to get the shop equipped with the right tools over several decades. But you can do a lot of nice work with simpler tools when you start out. Enjoy the journey, Scott
As always Scott great video keep them coming sir, I always like watching your videos and learning something new.
Thank you Rick. I appreciate this very much!!
Thanks for another great video Scott!! I always learn watching you work!
Happy New Year to you and yours!
Thanks Bob. That is very encouraging. I appreciate that. Happy New Year to you as well.
Great project and good looking door.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for your videos Scott I am a carpenter from Toronto and really enjoyed your video always learn something new
Thank you very much. Toronto is a big market. I'm sure you can really specialize there.
I see you love dewalt! Lol.
Great project Sir!
Hahaha. I love them all! Thanks for the comment, Scott
No shaper and router table, costs avoided, very nice thank you.
Thank you David! Scott
Man Festool really hooks you up. Sweet !!! For you.
No sponsorship here. I bought all the Festool at full price. But yes, it's nice stuff.
Great ! 1/2" Router Bit ?
This is the rabbeting bit kit that I use to make the grooves in the rails and styles to receive the plywood panels. Thanks for the comment! www.freudtools.com/products/32-522
Your junior Felder slider is definitely a WINNER!!! 😍
Yes the Winner is a winner! Enjoy that saw immensely.
Great Job !
Thank you so much Timothy!
Well done Scott! I enjoy watching your attention to detail!!
Thank you Rob. I appreciate that very much!
Nice work sir look forward to more projects.
Thank you so much Stephen. Some more content coming very soon. Cheers, Scott
What brand is your table saw? I haven't seen that type of sliding saw before.
It's a Hammer K3 Winner. Made in Austria. Awesome saw and made for small shops. If you check out this video I talk more about it. ruclips.net/video/TPYQ1vfbeMQ/видео.html
@@scottearlsmithFTC Thank you so much
@@shaneferguson4396 You're welcome.
Thanks for the tips! Blessings!
You're welcome. Thank you for the blessing!
Thank you Scott for this very clear and pleasant video. I like the scored plywood idea and plan to use it. I’m planning to build seven 2-panel interior fir doors for a cottage. They would be stained rather than painted. What plywood type and grade would you choose, given that it’s for an interior door panel. Also, is there an actual stamped grade specified for the fir 2x6s that I could look for, other than “finish grade”. Thanks again for your helpful videos.
Thank you for the encouragement Marvin. I would choose a fir plywood (good-both-sides) so you have a nice finish on both sides of the door. I believe the fir will not have a grade stamp unless it's construction grade. Look for fir that is free of large knots and you should have a great finished product. I'm gearing up to build an exterior door for my cabin-in-the-woods so look for another door build video this winter. All the best, Scott
But doesn’t using epoxy in place wood glue kind of defeat the purpose of using dominos? Sure you get more surface area for gluing, but are you getting the benefits of long grain to long grain adhesion without using wood glue?
Thanks for reaching out. Scientifically I don't know. But based on the fact that professional furniture makers use epoxy with dominos, I don't think it's an issue. Joey Chalk is the guy I got the idea from. Andy Rawls also uses epoxy and dominos. Check out their channels if you have time.
Another great video Scott, what’s the name of the clamps you were using while dominoing the rails and stiles on the work bench? We got our full amount of snow on the Xmas weekend for the whole season, southern Georgian Bay.
Those are Bessie clamps from Woodenedge in Winnipeg. I have two that are 48" and two that are 54". They're awesome. Thanks for the comment.
Are you using framing Doug fur?
No it's a select grade from a finishing supplier. The lumber stores here in central Canada don't carry construction grade Douglas Fir except in 2x10 and 2x12. Too far from the west coast I guess.
Thanks I may use it for exterior doors I’m making if I can find it.
@@paulyanney3151 I'm sure it will work out great.
Awesome job as always!
Thank you Doug!
@@scottearlsmithFTC I just showed Karmen the new intro. She loves it too!
@@iduggitz that's awesome, Thank you! That was done by Westfort Productions. They did a great job.
I take it festool is paying for some influencing here somehow
I wish! But not one bit! I started buying my Festool collection long before I started my channel. Their tools work well for me. I'd love to have a sponsor though. That would help a lot.
I am buy machine
You won't regret it. Thank you for commenting.
Brings LOTS of bucks -- even more if you lust after a full Felder, or its even bigger brother, a Format4 Kappa -- all made by Felder. Of course, in the Format4 price point, you're in the Martin Machine or Altendorf cost category. But oooh, so sweet!!!
@@WelshRabbit I hear you. If I had a bigger shop I'd have gone with the big daddy. I follow a channel on RUclips called Manor Wood. He's got a computerized Altendorf with all the bells and whistles. Even the fence is controlled by a computer with a built in memory. Also has similar safety technology to the Saw Stop but you don't have to buy new cartridges. Anyhow, I guess when it comes to tools we'd never be quite satisfied so might was well enjoy what we have! Thanks for commenting. Scott
Thank you for the instructional video. I am going to build seven doors for my home in a farmhouse style. I was going to use pine T&G for my inserts but thought about using plywood but wanted the grooves and did not think it would work on plywood. Well, you just demonstrated a fine way of doing it which will help keeping my doors square as well. I have been thinking about the festool 500, to use for my joints using the 10mm. It will be my first Festool tool. I am also a retired police officer in the Buffalo NY area and enjoy my woodworking and retirement. I wish you well and look forward to learning more from you. Respectfully, Jim.
Thank you James. I’m out at hunt camp so hopefully this works. So great to hear from a brother in blue. My son is on the job now and it’s scary. Lots of guns and gangs since I retired. So glad you’re enjoying your retirement. Good luck with the doors. I hope to do another door video this winter. All the best, Scott
James, You won't regret purchasing a Domino machine. I have the 700 and find all kinds of uses for it. I went with the bigger machine as I don't do a lot of smaller projects. Cheers Scott
Sir, I just purchased my first tool from Festool, the TS 75 (track saw) from the Rockler store up on Transit Rd. I live outside of Jamestown and stopped in there in the way home from work in Rochester last week. The associate Jay was superb in his knowledge of the various Festool tools and totally convinced me after telling me about the Festool 3-2-1 Warranty.
@@Billy_bSLAYER That saw is a horse for doing great work. You will really enjoy it. Good for you. The TS75 was pivotal on this fireplace. ruclips.net/video/r_37kTzBcyk/видео.html
Cheers, Scott
One thing I do before I glue up my rails and stiles is hit the interior long grain edge with a sharp block plane or #4 smoother instead of sanding. Just a couple of passes removes any tear out from jointing or table saw marks. Less chance of the sander rounding the edge, especially on the 3/4" cabinet doors.
That's a great tip John. I will try that next time. Cheers Scott
Why didn’t you use any Spaceballs or spacers to allow the panel to expand and contract along with the door and not end up with a crack line after you paint it?… Assuming you are going to paint it
Thanks for your question. Marine plywood is very stable. We have big humidity fluctuations here and the paint hasn't cracked. I would have used spacers for sure on a solid wood panel, but with marine plywood it's not necessary. That said, it certainly wouldn't hurt next time.
Thank you for serving the public Sir and thank you for showing the build. Now I’m ready to use my shrink wrapped festool routers and dominoes :)
Thanks for your appreciation and for the compliment. Get those tools dusty and make some sawdust. Glad you enjoyed the video! Scott