Tally Ho Capstan Restoration: Drilling & Tapping a Bolt Hole Pattern in the Capstan Base
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2024
- Tally Ho Capstan Restoration: Drilling & Tapping a Bolt Hole Pattern in the Capstan Base
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I'd say Anchorlube is 100% suitable for working on a capstan :)
I believe in English class they called this forshadoe
I meant to say foreshadowing .
That's punny!
...are you sure that Anchorlube wouldn't be TOO HEAVY-(?)
(snucker-snucker-snucker!!!)
Sir, concerning the diameter. Half of 6.496 is 3.248. At 2:53 of the video, you entered 3.284 for the radius.
Yeah, spotted that too. Hope that he catches it.
Uh oh....
Indeed, the plans called for 165mm which is 6.496. He is off nearly 1mm
Also, it wasn't shown, but for that 7th hole is it necessary to enter the radius again on the DRO? In that case, it will be an *interesting* bolt hole pattern if the radius is different for one hole. The number is written as 3.248 on the diagram/layout. 😬
Oof I really hope there is scope to cope with this in the other parts too easy to transpose numbers especially working alone and doing video commentary etc.
The hole at the edge... Why not start with an end mill some 50 thou larger diameter, down to the lower surface, then spot drill, drill and tap?
My thoughts exactly.
I was coming to make the same comment… though I am just an armchair quarterback:)
I am not a machinist, but I think that end mill shanks and Jacob chucks are not compatible, I think they are both too hard to work without risking damaging each other.
Definitely use a bottle cutting end mill. 5/16 that way you can clean up the sidewall so the tap will riling straight 😱😱😱
I am an engineer and the engineer messed up. Bore through the web, holes on edge... These issues are a machinist following bad plans doing the best he can
Amazing to reflect that 120 years ago none of the complexity of current technology was available to the manufacturers who routinely turned out capstans in many sizes in their hundreds. I love it that Americans use inches as an apprentice we used over 60 years ago. Kind regards Tim
Keith, as others have said the bolt hole radius you drilled is wrong. You typed in 3.284” when it says 3.248” on the drawing. So you’re large by 0.036”. Hope whoever makes the motor mount sees this and compensates, and hope that it’s not a critical dimension!
On the printed diagram of the layout, you have written a diameter of 6.496 inches. That makes the radius 3.248 inches as correctly written, NOT the 3.284.inches you entered on the machine. The mounting plate will be out if it has already been made.
???????
@@MrJmBecker look at the start of the video at the paper drawing, bottom left, hand written, is the radius shown as 3.248 inches yet Keith input 3.284 on the digital display on the machine as the radius, i.e. wrong.
Thanks. I now see the difference ! Very sharp of you !
@@MrJmBecker maybe you could ask a question rather then stuttering on the ?
@@A.Hidell Can't be bothered to post a time stamp... can't be bothered to address it..
More important than machining, I see that you have decided to make a serious change in your menu in the past year and you look much better (and younger) for it......and that is a good thing.
For the tapped hole made around t=13'30", the absence of a flat surface perpendicular to the drill would have justified the preliminary use of a mill. I have the impression that the drills have moved away from the axis when drilling.
A 1/2in end mill would be perfect for 0.027"(0.7mm) clearance on a 12mm thread.
Agree: It did move. Just another blunder on this part. That's what you get when the work is for free.
Spot facing would be a good idea on a complex surface like that. Also, a set of tap socket adapters along with a sliding T-handle wrench is very handy for working in tight locations where the standard tap handle is awkward.
Just what I was thinking.
Being a very old casting I assume he was trying to keep absolutely as much material as possible?
@@weatheranddarkness No he just was being lazy. That could have easily been done with an endmill to give the tap drill clearance. If you look, the tap drill was deflecting out of location the entire time he was drilling the hole.
I have a tap holder that fits on a 3/8 ratchet that would be perfect for that app. The head has a center hole built into it as well so it can be turned by a regular combination wrench.
I was yelling at the screen to close clearance spot-face.
Why not switch the digital read out to Metric therefore avoiding the introduction unnecessary errors, after all 165 is 165.
Doesn't matter what the units are when a mistake is made keying in the numbers. 156 could have been keyed in just as easily.
Everyone makes mistakes.
What is with you clowns and your metric/imperial narratives? Your lack of education does not change the complexities of the world around you.
Older US CnC as far as I'm aware can't do Metric due to the electronics, so it's down to the machinist to do the conversion to the nearest decimal/fraction.
@@robertgarrett5009This isn’t a CNC machine - his DRO has an inch/mm readout button so easily done…
I'd like to see the motor bolted up to these holes.
13:54 Why wasn't an end mill used first for this hole?
A 1/2" end mill would have been perfect.
All of the above, but why not drill all the holes from the other side, then there would have been room for the wrench.
@@johnsherborne3245 How would he position the job on the mill with the central ‘turret’ facing downwards?
@@bobdylan7120 could be done, but would not be fun trying to get all the blocks and clamps needed to make something that top heavy stable enough, the work surface would be what 9" off the bed? Possible, but not advisable if you can avoid it.
Som of the holes are not through holes. On what side is the motor supposed to be?
Love the channel. One thing you might want to think about. Get yourself a air gun to blow those chips off your work piece. Tapping with chips in the hole can lead to some problems.
It is wonderful to see this capstan being refurbished so that it can serve for another 114 years. Today's technology being retrofitted in such a way that the outer fabric is unchanged. This is perfect.
You're fading away to a shadow, Keith! Speed has picked up, too! Congratulations!!!
I have a feeling will be seeing this video again. Repairing/re-drilling.🤔
if it was not wrong clip
and only if 166.8 vs 165 is no go
as long as the plate match it should not mater,
as it is one off piece
Great work, looking forward to seeing it mounted on deck!
You do it your way we will just watch.
Great job Keith, Just surprised you didn't spotface those 2 holes near the core with a slightly larger endmill (11/16") so you could drill and tap from a flat surface instead of along an edge.
Hi Keith! Another great video update on the Tally Ho Capstan restoration project. Learning that you are going to make a base plate to attach to the bottom of that component and seeing how the dogs were laid out on the other side gives context on why the designers of the modernization project chose how to lay out the pattern. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to the next installment!
Good to see comprehensive drawings provided, especially the note on the drawing indicating 'View from below deck'.
If there is anyone on this sight who is not 100% “Nerd” please stand up! Gentlemen (and ladies) I love this channel and it’s because of Keith and all of the rest of you. I learn as much from the comments (not trolls) as I learn from Keith. Thanks!
as a person that know nothing about machining, this is really neat to watch.
I’m about to go support you on Patreon!
.
Why? Because I’ve known of you & your website for a LONG time, 20 years? At least 15. From the days when the Internet was so much nicer, and when I actually had DREAMS (to look forward to).
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Why else? Because I TRUST you. Because you’re a VETERAN. Veterans are the best people to know! Veterans are GOOD. GOOD people deserve SUPPORT!
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To quote David Byrne, of Talking Heads, “ Any questions?!”
Fascinating!
Curious why you didn't set the DRO to metric? A separate conversion step seems like adding another door for Mr. Bozo. I regularly work in metric on my old imperial machines and the DRO is a huge help with that.
6:53
Use a 12-point ratcheting box wrench to turn the tap😂
Or just unscrew the handles and spin it holding the main body.
Or tap it from the bottom.
Or a shorter tap wrench.
Or an Irwin tap socket
@@TgWags69, I have a set of those (3/8”&1/2”) and they come in really handy for tapping and to clean old threads out.
Could you have used an end mill and made a flat bottomed surface, in that awkward hole 🕳️ on the edge of the center flange, then center drilled, drilled out to tapping size and then tapped it, it's only a suggestion, Ste 🇬🇧
I’ve seen Keith do that numerous times, I was a little surprised when he didn’t on that hole.
Great job !
Thanks Keith 😊
The lesson to be learned here is to use the measurement system specified in the drawings with a DRO there is no need or excuse to convert measurements: one can switch units and use the measurements specified in the drawings and avoid the errors made here. Lets hope there is scope to mitigate the bolt hole error.
Thank you for another great video. Cheers
Thank you Keith!
Great video thanks for sharing
As always, very interesting Kieth. Thank you.
Good morning Keith. Thanks for the videos. Have a great week!
Thanks Keith
Fascinating, as always. I recall seeing a ratcheting tap wrench on some video somewhere - seems like a good solution for the particular problem you had here.
Beautiful job.
Thanks Keith for the Video another step along the way. Can't wait until it finish.
Great work Keith thanks for sharing 🦘
Amazing work as always.
Happy Monday Georgia! 😊
Thanks
Just amazing. Patience seems to be key.
Good morning, Keith. Have a great week sir.
When this capstan was originally made, any of these steps would have been by hand and many headaches would have been “worried through. Modifying anything like this would have to be an interesting way to spend the afternoon!
Thanks Keith. That's a lot of head scratching on that project.
good job
That's a great use of the digital readout.
awesome work keith! cant wait to see it installed on the foredeck
You do nice work
Great video, waiting for lunch....cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
Life long knowledge the right man for the job thanks for your video great work
Great work Keith! And indeed, one more part off the list! Can't wait to see how the team back at the boat will tackle the install the whole affair, it's gonna be a doozie for sure.
Yeah, it'll be "some assembly required" when the shipwrights mate this thing to the deck.
Great work ? Did we watch the same video ?
Well. I am certainly inspired and improving my own machining operations. Thanks.
Thank you Keith! The capstan project is particularly interesting because of the many different steps. Looking forward to the next video.
Nice job drilling the wholes in that pattern.
Good morning from the Pacific Northwest Oregon
I like the shavings …it seems like it was a good casting.
Keith, you do great work! This brings back memories working with my Dad. He was a machinist by trade and had me working on a metal lathe at 11 years old. As he acquired more machines, I learned how to use them as well. Excellent videos!
Been a few years since I was on a Bridgeport. Nice looking shop- clean.
That "Bridgeport" is a Wells-Index. Don't insult it like that! 😁
Apparently, the screw holes are to connect to a flange holding the electric motor.
Yea, Keith said he had to make a mounting plate for the motor.
Blessings Keith. With the tap follower in place and restricted arc for tap wrench I have used a 12 point ratcheting box end wrench to drive the tap to speed things up a bit. Now to watch the rest of the video. Blessings again from Lubbock, Texas.
Patreon JOINED!
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✌🏽😉👋🏽.
Awesomeness Extreme!
Hi Kieth. I haven't watched your channel for a bit. You look fantastic! Younger and way more agile. Well done..
The "That's good enough" machinist only made the bolt circle .072" bigger than it needed to be. But "That's good enough!" 🤣
Also kids, dont use a spot drill like an endmill like he did. The spindle was deflecting the entire time. Just put an endmill in to clear material for your spot drill and drill. Do it the right way, not the "It's good enough" way.
I think I am a fan of machining .... I have done some when I was young .... ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊 ....
I was surprised that you didn't use a 1/2" end mill to relieve the casting and provide a flat spot for starting the drill on that hole near the center projection. That size would provide clearance for the M12 bolt threads, too.
Unbelievable skills Leo your very lucky to have such people in the project bless you all
I'm not sure I understand why you'd want to risk introducing errors through converting the dimensions to imperial if your DRO has a metric function...
🤷♀
Shhhhhh!
Consider that with the exception of the few digital instruments (with In/mm buttons) that Keith has, all his measuring devices and machines are imperial.
Probably more chance of mistakes when using both systems at the same time, machine using metric and check measurements with imperial.
What is with you clowns and your metric/imperial narratives? Your lack of education does not change the complexities of the world around you.
Looks very OK.....Thanks Keith and sorry i am a day late.....
Old F-4 Phantom 2 Shoe🇺🇸
I love these videos, not many Machinists these days can make anything ona manual machine. I've been a machinist, mold maker, and programmer for 22 years, always Hated the smell of anchor lube but loved results of using it. I will say i like the smell better than tap magic though.
This project has the potential to be one hell of a TAFU.
TAFU ?
@@bernardmullan9186Trans Atlantic !
If you have a ratchet where the arbor is exposed on the top you can take it apart and center drill the top side and get some tap sockets and now you have a ratcheting tap whench with a centering feature. I rarely use a tap wrench now unless I dont have a center and need even pressure.
The radius should have been 3.248 not 3.284. Hopefully there is enough clearance on the bolt holes to compensate for the difference.
Ya know Keith. It's a day late and a dollar short but on part 1 trying to find the center, you could of taken a half round file cleaned up the slag on that one spot (lightly) then put a small brake cylinder hone and just do only a several passes and that would of probably of given you a better reading on the dial indicator. Like you said with your reading you got was fairly accurate for the job you were doing. BTW I enjoy watching watching your videos. They are very enjoyable
Since you were using a tap follower, another option in tight areas could be a plain box or crescent wrench to rotate the tap.
Fun videos, but please use an end mill for drilling into radii. And buy a smaller tap wrench! I can’t believe you could tolerate doing that many half turns, haha.
Put your tap in your drill chuck, goose the spindle and let it start itself in, if you are chicken to power tap it or are using hand taps then use a hook spanner with the pin to grab a chuck key pilot on the drill chuck and bar it around. on my non quill Hardinge TM vertical head I use a straight shank drill chuck loose in a collet for alignment and bar it in and out.
Im amazed you can still hold your own by using both imperial and metric, not even NASA would do such a thing anymore. I think i get why you do it though, im just amazed is all. Cant wait to see what the end result will look like!! Very impressive work!
What is with you clowns and your metric/imperial narratives? Your lack of education does not change the complexities of the world around you.
super!
when you have a situation like that with your tape, switch from the tape handle to a wrench. i forget what size
Rock on.
You should've used an end mill for the holes up against that center boss. Would've made drilling a non issue.
Re the alignment mistake, it's feasible that the motor mounting flange will need elongated slots anyway to adjust initial gear lash and for subsequent wear. Many windlasses have that.
Will you mill this 2 half tapped hole down to the full tapped hole? Thanks, very interesting to watch. Brings back memories!
If you use a tap follower anyway I'd have no problems using a wrench on the tap.
For the holes that intersect the edge of that inner boss I'd definitely plunged down with a bigger end mill first, big enough that you don't even have to start the tap on the edge part. Makes me wonder how the motor is even supposed to get mounted there.
How crazy…. The capstan was obviously made in imperial England. The owner measured a 6.5” hole and converted it to 165mm which Keith converted back to 6.496”!!
No he did not measure a hole.
He is fitting an electric capstan drive motor which has a 165mm bolt pattern radius.
After moving that head out to reach that one leftover hole I sure as heck after centering the big bore would have double checked the hole pattern on one of the other tapped holes with a pin in my chuck.
Keith,
I've never had much luck drilling on a step surface. They always drill off center. The video shows on both those holes they were forced off center on the low side. I would have thought you would use and end mill to create a larger flat surface for the drill to start on. It would not have needed much more than just a little room for either nut or bolt head clearance. Good luck!
I agree, surely as you said, using an end mill would have relieved that flange edge and made a nice flat surface for the center drill to start, also I noticed Keith was not rotating the tap backwards a small amount each time to clear the chips and why did he not get a shorter handled tap wrench to save all that fiddling about. Cheers from the UK
Oh for the want of a ratcheting tap holder...
Keith, you have lost weight! Congrats. But don't worry, I found it. You can have it back, any time you want. Thanks for the video. See you at the Bar-Z. Jon
Keith couldnt you have put an indicator on the heqad to see how far you moved it and then added that value to the DRO?
Remember to go back with the bottom tap on those blind holes!
Did Keith address the error with the radius?
That piece of the capstan will spend a considerable amount of time actually submerged in seawater. Which is probably the reason the head was seized and broke during disassembly. I have not seen you create any grease channels or locations for grease fittings. What is the maintenance plan?
I think I would have filled those voids inside the mounting point with Devcon epoxy putty for a uniform surface and milled the whole lot flat, with a relief around the two bolt holes near the shaft boss for a bolt head and washer. But I'm not a machinist and don't know whats getting bolted onto it so what do I know.
Concerned cutting a bit hole in the rib. Why not cut through the web? Isnt that going to affect the strength?
Great video! Back in HS metal shop, we didn't have a mill so I never learned hot to use one. My only surprise on this series of videos is the lack of lubricating during cutting operations. I was trained to always use cutting oil by the late, great Mr. Waldo - our shop teacher.
Not a pro machinist either but as i understand it, cast iron, due to its high carbon content, is self lubricating.
Yep cast iron doesn’t need lube