How to prepare a room for line papering and painting
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2019
- 3 day's on the job with JoeProDecor highlighting the method's of preparing for the line papering and painting of two bedroom's.
to be continued.......... 
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Just subscribed to your channel you have gave me so much important information and help can't wait to start my living room now with a bit more confidence thanks joe!
Thanks joe , that’s a great help 👍
Good video Joe.
Thank you 👍
Hi Joe what grade abranet do you use for sanding and de_nibbing on your Mirka’s mate. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thank you 👍
I generally use 120 & 180 grits for walls and ceilings, mainly 180 on my leros for de-nibbing purposes.
I use the 80, 120, 180 on woodwork and finish with a fine sanding pad inbetween coats, 220
Can you please recommend what grade of lining paper would be best to use on a prepared wall to take paint as a finished surface?
Hi John, I use 1200 as standard on walls that have had little or no plaster repair. You can get away with 1000 grade on say new plaster, or surfaces in very good condition, but I find 1200 grade easier to manage.
Cheers, Joe
Nice work. Lots done in few days. If painting lining paper do you just line up and down. And how soon after lining can you paint it. Keep up the videos.
Yeah we do 8 hours solid at least in a day with no distractions. Regarding the lining, I line either way, usually both when painting over, which ever leaves the least joints and splice's thank you for your comments and questions, and there will be plenty more vids on the way
Also, it can be painted the day after 👍
Couldn’t see day 4 joe, when you done 2 nd cost on ceiling
Hi there , 31 minutes shows ceiling after 2nd coat applied.
All the best, Joe
Could you touch up the paint ???
Hi, are you talking about the ceiling paint?
@@JoeProDecor yes, to find a emulsion that actually touches up would be a life saver I do shop fitting (decor) and the ceilings are constantly getting knocked which is generally a full coat a it flashes otherwise
@@christopherdonnelly4218 Johnstones perfect matt, or Leyland smart matt touch up perfectly. The Johnstones gear is more expensive, but that's because you can get it tinted, whereas the Leyland gear only comes in a limited amount of of the shelf cours including the brilliant whjte of course
Thanks joe I’ll give it a try 👍
Not bad but still not a finish a professional decorator would achieve, a snap off d.i.y blade is unacceptable especially rusty , a proper expensive irwin or stanley fatmax manual knife using only heavy duty replacement blades is a must ! Also a metal straight edge is always used for knife cutting otherwise you chop into scar and ruin your plastic smoothing spatula, a smoothing brush albeit old school professional we learned in the trade is only used nowadays for blown vinyl papers and embossed papers never lining papers, a chalk line must be used after measuring your first piece from the ceiling allowing half an inch deviation of the ceiling line , also a bucket of warm water with a touch of washing up liquid must be at hand to sponge off any excess paste on ceiling walls and lining paper especially when painting is required on lining paper
Olfa snap off blades are more than capable of cutting paper for professional results, I have tried and tested all methods and find it works best for me... I think you will find most wallpaper hangers use, this method. Using a wallpaper hanging brush for all types of papers other than blown vinyl or anaglypta works best for me, as I find a hanging brush perfect for removing air pockets (which is it's intended use). Spatulas, smoothing tools ect have a tendency to push out paste, and using my preferred method insures I never have and blown seams, or dry area's (usually only spotted when painted over)... And I mean never. I just think some Dec's don't want to use both tools.
Everyone has their own way's which I understand... But being a professional for a long period of time let's you adjust your methods to suit. Also chalk lines are a bit old school for me now, and I prefer to use a, lazer level.
I'm sure your methods work for you 👍
Just to add that I have now converted to wallrock fiberliner and wallrock smooth now as an alternative to standard lining papers due to the all round versatility and strength of it.... Bit of a game changer in our trade 👌
And yes I agree with what you said about wiping excess paste away especially when painting... As paint reacts with the paste whilst drying and causes the paint to craze and crack.... It is a must!
why all the apostrophes?