UPDATE: Just found out that Sony recalled PS2 Slim power supplies made between August and December 2004 for being a fire hazard. If you have one of these, check the date on the bottom label, which will tell you the manufacture date. "Adapters considered at-risk and eligible for the recall are printed with the model number "HP-AT048H03" and have one of the following five date stamps: 2004.8, 2004.9, 2004.10, 2004.11, 2004.12"
I'm happy with the exposure levels... those who know need to know... and those who don't yet know... will probably come to know... when they need to. Clear? Clear.
@@butchdeadlift7551Those original adapters are aging, someting newer and of good quality like the PS2 PSU is safer to use. And if you count that I spent 50 euros for a newly made PSU for my C64 alone, 50+ dollars to power all your consoles is still a good deal. P.S. the European SNES adapter outputs AC current, so it cannot be used with the PS2 nor with any other console adapter.
It was awesome and exactly what I needed for my setup. I just wish they touched upon power the Atari 2600 since it uses that weird 3.5 mm looking jack.
can you please share the noise and ripple scope results? you may post imgur link here or in shmups forum (VEGETA user). thanks! i think the psu scope reading in video is not indicative as this should power a 50-60hz console which sips power according to this frequency which means more ripple.
Just so you know, the little tabs on the inside of the input jack near the negative contact are crimps that are meant to be pressed down into the shielding on the wires to give it better strength rather than having the solder be the only thing holding the wires on
Great video. There are a few comments I'd like to make on it: First off, there is zero explanation of how a switch mode (switching) power supply works. A switch mode power supply works by switching its output on and off very quickly. It's very efficient, but the downside is that it creates switching noise (as you've probably seen with bad quality third party adapters). Transformers do not use switching and while being less efficient, usually provide cleaner power. You definitely need to be pickier with switching power supplies when using vintage electronics that were not designed around them. This is a good excuse to look into recapping consoles if you haven't already, as those capacitors might already be worn out. With regards to how noise affects consoles, it's not just the video. It can definitely be the audio as well. Audio equipment is often extremely sensitive to the quality of its power supply. In Hi-Fi, you only started seeing good class D (switching) amplifiers relatively recently. Not very long ago, you needed to go class A or class AB or good quality sound (the downsides to class AB and especially class A are high power consumption). With regards to splitters and daisy chains: This can lead to interactions between the different devices connected, mainly noise. It will depend on the quality of the filtering in the various consoles. A great example of this is with guitar pedal power supplies. Cheap setups use a daisy chain (splitter) off of a single power supply, which can lead to noise, while higher-end setups will use a power supply with a large number of discrete outputs and internal circuitry to minimize interactions and noise between the pedals in the signal chain. With regards to building the adapter, those metal tabs that wrap around the wires need to be crimped around the wires. This is to provide extra support so that pulling on the cable, or even just bending it (which causes the wires to flex and stretch) doesn't directly tug on the soldering and conductors. You can easily upgrade the 7805 (the same as an LM30) if you'd like. I killed one in an old SNES of mine after adding capacitors to smooth out the vertical line issue (I ended up removing the caps as putting them on the video encoder was enough), and I upgraded it to the higher-performance LM340A which has tighter tolerances, so that's another way to improve the power circuitry of a console a bit (you could technically upgrade to a higher amperage regulator if you had a lot of power-sucking mods, but definitely be sure to manage the heat with a good heatsink at that point. Finally, for buying electronic components, Amazon is not the best go-to. Electronics parts distributors such as Mouser or Digi-Key far better choices with much larger selections and extremely detailed filtering capabilities. Great video as usual, but this one definitely had some missing details that you guys normally nail.
I learned so much from this episode. I spent the rest of the night reading about how power adapters works. Thank you for this introduction. Having Voultar as a special guest to validate what you were saying was a smart move. Again, I thank you for opening my eyes and giving me the confidence to mess with electronics and soldering.
Man this will really clean up my "hidden shame" behind the tv stand. I already used the slim power supply for my PS One with screen, now to grab some of those adapters. Really cool implementation and dont need to buy a $300 bit of kit, score!
Wow this is really useful information! I have 23 consoles hooked up with individual power supplies. Not only is this method great for the space savings, but the clean consistent power is awesome too.
This video came at the perfect time. Over the past few years, I had collected all of my old gaming stuff to just get it together, clean it all up, and test what still works. It's been a slow process with not much time I could put into it, but did recently get around to digging out the old PS2 systems. Turns out I was missing the power supply. I ordered some knockoff on Amazon and confirmed my system still works, but decided I wanted to hunt down an OEM adapter. Either by coming across one at a thrift store/yard sale or going on eBay. Hadn't found one yet shopping around, but this video showing the benefits of it motivated me to order a couple from eBay. One to keep with the PS2, and one to mess around with for older consoles. Unfortunately, they're $20/ea minimum on eBay (some $30) but I was able to find 2x ~$20 ones that seemed okay enough. They had seemingly reputable sellers and showed enough in the pictures to confirm the 70100 model and manufacture date at the bottom to avoid the recalled ones mentioned in the update posted. Hopefully there's no more issues that pop up and they are both functioning. Thanks for the video.
Another option, thanks to the USB 4 protocol, is using USB-C wall warts that can output 12V and get adaptors that can take it from USB-C connector to whatever your console needs. It's basically what they talk about here, except that are going to become more prominent as current supplies of these get taken up.
TBH, it is more complicated and you need specific PD 12V trigger cables. Also most USB-C PD chargers output up to 100W for a single port you might be hard pressed to get enough USB PD ports or properly speced USB-PD cables that could properly support that amperage. Yes, USB PD is the way forward, we need more reputable brands providing USB PD chargers and PD trigger cables.
@@timecrash85I think that in some years' time (if not even months) there will be something that takes power from a USB Type C cable and steps it down to the voltage and amperage needed for these electronics. It will become a thing, I'm sure.
@Gabriele V. that already exists. Anything with a USB-C connector has a controller that tells it how much the device can handle. It's why I can use the same connector and cable to charge my phone (30W max) and my Laptop (55W minimum). Also, internally, every console has voltage regulators that will step down the input voltage to the needed levels. It's why they don't fry when you plug them into a outlet with dirty voltage.
@@timecrash85 They make USB-PD 9v trigger cables to standard barrel jacks. 9v unlike 12v is still part of the PD spec too, so every adapter you come across should support it.
Excellent content! I’m 42 and had most of the popular systems growing up, including a Turbografx. I’m ready to start collecting, especially with this info!
It would be useful if you had a screen with a table showing the names of all retro consoles that can make use of this power supply showing which ones need larger barrel sizes and which ones need reverted center pins
Come to think of it, you can get away with NOT reversing polarity on your 4.8x1.7 F to 5.5x2.1 M adapters, because Castlemania Games sells console specific barrel adapters that reverse polarity for you if necessary (SNES being a prime example), since the Triad power supplies they sell are already Center Positive. I actually have the SNES specific barrel adapter, and just used my multimeter to confirm that it's reverse polarity.
This was a fantastic tip, I actually just finished doing my own setup using these adapters! It makes so much more sense to me to keep everything center positive and then let the console specific adapters reverse the polarity.
Great video Coury! I’ve been interested in learning more about this since I first heard Voultar mention it on Try’s setup reorganizing streams on 5.4.2017. I’m a sucker for a good setup tour 😉… Through the years I’ve used your RGB Master Class and Studio Setup/ Room Tours as a guide for how I’ve evolved my own setup. I really appreciate all the hard work you and Try have put into this channel over the years! You guys are THE reason I got back into video games, retro and modern. Keep being 2R2BR!
Man, forget everything else, this will finally be a solution for the Genesis/CD/32x! One reliable adapter for all three is wonderful. Only took 67 years, but we now have the solution; and of course it came from these guys. Great vid and info, as always! And thanks for the update in the description, that's great to know.
Wow... I never guessed a video would be made on this!! I changed the barrel connector on one of my Slim PSUs for a 5.5*2.1 a while ago so I could use it with my Mega Drive and MegaCD which I had modded internally to run off a single power supply, and saw it gave plenty of amps for it, as well as being a clean power. I have changed the polarity needs on several systems of mine to use this same PSU, and I just pull out the system I want to play at that moment and plug it into this supply, including my Sinclair micros and SMS. I even installed a barrel socket for it on my old Atari VCS/2600. I find consolidating this way much better, no old PSUs all over the place, no accidentally using the wrong polarity on a system, no issues at all.
I know this will probably be buried by now and is more of a fringe/weird case, but I wasn't able to get this to power my Atari Jaguar and CD properly. I was getting video artifacts and errors consistently, even when they were the only devices plugged into the PS2 power supply. Genesis, Super Nintendo and AV Famicom all work great, but just had issues with the Jagaur. I'm sure this will only be of benefit to a handful of Jaguar weirdos and might even be user error, but just wanted that out there. Fantastic video and very happy with how it eliminates wall warts and dodgy replacement power supplies!
Wow! This is pretty cool. Personally, I'll stick with using triads for my old consoles. However, it is really really neat that this is possible. I also always appreciate a Voultar cameo.
8:32 I don't know about the other consoles, but the NES and SNES both have an internal rectifier, which means their input is AC. This means, they will run with the correct voltage (and enough current) regardless of the polarity of the barrel plug. Maybe the models of my NES and/or SNES are somehow special, so if you're readong this make sure to check your own console's label.
This is incredibly niche but super useful. I don’t actually own anything pre-PS2 and just use MiSTer for it but I’m happy to know that if for whatever reason I get a tower of power I can just get a power splitter and go from there hahah. Keep up the good work as always. Fun to see Mr. Power Supply himself, Voultar, as well.
Finally bit the bullet and did this after putting it off for months. Was able to replace six power bricks and two power strips! I used a terminal block instead of soldering though for my adaptor/polarity reverse cable. My setup is just that much less cumbersome now. Great video!
Dang, didn't they used to charge like $50 for those retro game cave Genesis trio power supplies? I'm guessing all the Triad solutions are still fine. I'm a bit surprised they didn't even get a mention. My first thought went to them when seeing the video.
The biggest revelation is that I can indeed safely use my PS2 Slim power adapter with my 32X. It's the only system in my setup that can't be used with my awesome TRIAD PSU, which is even compatible with my 9 volt Neo Geo AES. I do plan on getting a PC Engine Duo RX at some point, so it's good to know I can safely use it with a power supply i already have lying around.
I've been powering my Duo R with a slim ps2 PSU for years but never thought to use splitters/plug adapters to power multiple systems from one PSU. Great info, thanks.
As a long time guitar player, I am already intimately familiar with checking AC adapters for miliamps, calculating loads and splitting one power supply into 8 barrels. So this is a cool idea.
@@theloach5458 most pedals are at 9v so maybe? But honestly there is an entire fucking industry of "noiseless pedal power supply" bs and you can get lost in it for hours. I bought a power supply off amazon for $10 and a splitter and never looked back, but I'm only powering 10 pedals.
@@draganandjelkovic4838 My PAL Snes "power supply" is just a transformer in a box. I thought that would be the same for the NTSC one. Thanks for clarifying
One luxury of having only Japanese import cartridge-based systems is I can use the same 9v power supply for my Famicom, PC Engine, Mega Drive, and Super Famicom. I live off grid with solar power on a 12v lithium system, so I looked into making DC-DC power supplies for all my retro consoles. But because I'm not an expert, it caused some ground loop issue that could damage the systems, so I went back to using AC Adapters running off my inverter, even though it's less efficient going from DC-AC-DC again. I also have picoPSU for my Saturn, Playstation, and Dreamcast, but again, that caused some ground loop issues, and my original stock interal PSUs are still working fine, so I went back to using an AC cable for those. The biggest thing I'd want to DC mod someday would be the CRT I use. There are 12v CRTs made for portability, but mine doesn't have that, so it'd be really nice to be able to use direct DC input on one and save some power. This is an edge case that there's not much interest in, so I've been forging my own path on this. Next step is to study the circuits in these AC adapters to see what they do with the DC output to isolate it, protect it, etc. and apply that to my own dc-dc circuit.
Never thought of this; this is amazing. I've never had the displeasure of needing a third-party PSU for my systems, but now I can certainly avoid it. This will also cleanup my CRT setup considerably.
I might be mistaken but I believe the Korg Volca is centre positive with a 4.8 x 1.7 mum barrel tip. Daisy chains for those that power multiple Volcas off of one PSU are readily available. So this might be a good alternative to doing the whole conversion to 5.5x2.2mm thing
Update - I have tested this with a korg volca daisy chain adapter and have confirmed it works perfectly. Now have my Sega megadrive and ps2 slim sharing the same PSU
@@Brdo666 Sounds cool, but does this let you use any 5.5 x 2.1mm systems? Converting to that first was because most adapters available now were made for the Triad which has 5.5 x 2.1mm center positive to start with.
@@bobrocks95 you’d still have to convert for other systems, but this is a good alternative if you’re like me and are only looking to power systems using a 4.8 x 1.7 mm barrel. I don’t own any systems that require 5.5 x 2.2mm
I made my own one of these that has a power supply that's 9VDC@5A It was years ago, so I used the original cables from the busted wall warts for each system: NES*2, Genesis (1 and 2), Atari 2600, Atari 7800, SNES. For the Nintendo consoles, their bricks supplied ~10VAC, so feeding these +9VDC center-positive (and REGULATED, unlike the originals) was no problem. They just regulate down to +5VDC after passing through a bridge rectifier. The others were originally supplied with unregulated DC. For center-positive systems, just adapt and plug in. The 7800 is an oddball. For that Genesis 1, I built my own bridge rectifier and installed it inside so that either my center-positive supply or the original center-negative one worked. I had previously swapped the cable inside so it was center-positive, but recently undid that. A bit of a torture test was indeed for me to power on every system I supported at once. My supply also has a voltmeter and ammeter so I can tell if the current draw is getting too high. I knew I wouldn't have more than a couple on at once normally, and it passed the test, so all's good.
I used this PS2 slim adapter for my DIY audio amplifier as my hands-on school project. I modified the output voltage from 8.5V to 12 Volts DC by soldering a different resistor beside a TL431 voltage reference IC inside of the power supply. And it works well! Here are some of my observations: - The circuit board has a Delta brand marking. - The entire power supply is EMI-shielded with metal sheet. - The transformer is also EMI-shielded. - The output has an inductor in series for further EMI filtering. - The output has class Y capacitors connected to each mains AC input terminal. - The capacitor (82μF 400V) of the primary side is not auto-discharged when it is not plugged in. There's NO bleeder resistor across the capacitor. It's because the switching regulator IC is powered by a separate half wave rectifier from AC input. For safety, I soldered a 2 megaohm bleeder resistor (two 1 megaohm 1/4 watt resistors in series) across it to discharge it to under 10 volts in 30 minutes when it's unplugged.
Those old school bricks are called linear power supplies, they aren't as efficient as switch mode PSUs but even mediocre linear supply will provide output cleaner from the best switch mode supplies, that's not to say switch mode supplies are bad but there's a reason why all of high precision electronics lab instruments and high end audio hardware use Linear PSUs
Thats the reason i got a Linear bech power supply instead of a cheap switching one. Is heavier, bigger and have less Amperes and was more expensive than a switching one, but i know i have a stable voltage without any noise. I connect my consoles to this bench when iam making repairs or testing a console, and iam sure if i see any noise, its not from power supply :).
When I moved a few years ago in anticipation of the birth of my daughter, the "game room" unfortunately got the boot. I've been attempting to streamline a drop in system. Packing all systems in another room with their respective cables. Having a single power adapter in the living room and small adapters on each system would absolutely better the streamline. Thanks C!
Using a single DC supply plugged into multiple consoles simultaneously can cause some weird issues sometimes, usually related to ground loops. One example is that if you use a single power supply for a tower of power *and* you're using the Genesis's AV or headphone out, you may notice the audio is a bit noisy. Using the RCA out of the sega CD or giving the CD unit its own power supply can cut that noise down. If they exist, using an A/V switch that also switches the grounds is ideal, as it can eliminate ground loops created by having the power and AV grounds of all your consoles connected together.
kind of amazed not more people knew about this, even though I don't have a Ps2 slim anymore i kept one of these power supplies as it's very useful for powering all sorts of devices
I didn't even know power supplies for the PlayStation 2 slim existed. I don't think I've ever seen one before. Back when I would go to yard sales you'd see lots of PlayStation 2 slims but you'd never find any power supplies. At one point I had five consoles without a power supply and I didn't sell any of them because I wanted to test if they were working first and I thought eventually I'd find a power supply.
Wrong polarity is always to be avoided, but for the sake of completeness, I'll give my understanding of what can *actually* happen with the consoles I'm actually familiar with: - A sega genesis or mega drive by itself has polarity protection, so you won't damage it--it just won't work - I *believe* Nintendo consoles made for the Japanese market also have polarity protection, but cannot be 100% sure - An American SNES however, absolutely *will* fry if you give it reverse polarity. - Reverse polarity into a sega CD will blow the fuse, pretty reliably - Finally, if you hook up a sega CD and a genesis with correct polarity in one but reverse polarity in the other, you short your power supply through the systems' grounds! If you're lucky your power supply will just cut out. However, if you are using something beefy like a 5A power supply this could be very bad news. - The above can also happen with two consoles that have their AV cables grounds tied together (by your video signal path). This makes reverse polarity dangerous even for consoles where it normally wouldn't be.
@@bitdevice so do US NES and PAL SNES. With PAL SNES there's an additional caveat which is that it can't generate the SCART 12V (for auto-switching) without an AC input. If you power it from DC that voltage will be lower so it may auto-switch in widescreen mode (which people don't usually want).
Always stick with official power supplies when you can. Whenever I got a generic power supply, I always measure the voltage from it. Got a generic Genesis one that was rated over 5 volts higher than it should have been. Glad to see a great alternative.
I just got done making one for this very setup. The sega cd has a loud buzzing when accessing the discs. Seems fine on the genesis and 32x though. I swapped back out for an official psu for the sega cd and the problem is gone.
Excellent video! The only improvement I can suggest is to add an overcurrent or overload protection circuit off the end of the PS2 adaptor. That way, even if you accidentally leave too many devices on, you can't accidentally damage the power supply
I have a non-functioning PS2 Slim, but kept the power supply lying around. I'm glad to have a use for it (and finally be able to hookup up all of my consoles in my CRT corner).
11:29 "The red wire is positive, the black wire is negative". I think that's a little confusing when it's a loose plug, i'd suggest saying if it's tip or sleeve instead, since that's what really matters here, the polarity comes when you hook it up, if you decided to hook it up as a straight cable or a polarity switcher. Also you should squeeze those tabs around the wire, they act as extra strain relief so a soldering joint doesn't break and short out things. Also as a precaution I'd always recommend checking with a multimeter when making a cable like that, just to be sure. You can never really be sure about which tab goes where on plugs for soldering like that.
You read my mind, my Genesis 1 power supply sucks, it haz a buzzing sound and every time I try another one I get some kind of artifact on the image, so this video is such a blessing! I'll probably modify one to chech if this solves my issues.
So I ordered one off German Ebay from a vendor that was, according to his provided images, selling an SPCH-70100; turns out it was actually just 1 model out of many he is selling without paying any attention to the revisions. What was delivered to me now is an SCPH-79100, which is extra unfortunate, because it is the only PSU model out of the bunch that delivers 38.25 watts instead of the expected 48 watts due to lower amperage, 4.5 instead of 5.65. Maybe this heads-up will prove useful to another potential buyer.
Dang this was a super helpful and insightful video! I’ve got stupid long power strips that can have 12 things plugged in and have like 3 of them. This is gonna save me so much with the absolute mess of cables I have. Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!
Power Up! Nice share ⚡⚡👋 I made a barrel adaptor for an Official Game Gear Battery pack to fit my Turbo Express BITD, saved me a fortune in batteries. 😅 I'd add a disclaimer to this type of video - any modifications at your own risk ✌️
Catching up on MLiG, and I just wanna say…the shot at 0:33 looks fantastic. Would you two be interested in doing another room/setup tour? It’s been ages since the last one. No shot is superfluous: I need explanations of the TV stands, console cubbies, docks, chargers, everything
I was very close to starting a USB C project for my older consoles (Linus Tech Tips did a video on this), but this is WAY better! Definitely gonna hunt one down for safe keeping.
This is perfect! I have a rack mountable power strip with switches on the front to keep everything clean, but that is still not enough. The Sega tower of power really is an outlet hog, but I got the parts, and now the Sega Genesis, 32x, Sega CD, plus the NES and SNES use only one outlet. Amazing solution.
hey keep us updated. I just build this for a sega tower of power but ended up using an OG psu on the sega cd as the home made cable was making the console produce a loud byzzing noise when accessing the disc.
I've spent so much effort on getting all my AC wiring just right with strips and extensions and adaptors.... I can't wait to do it all again but better this way, haha. Also; ah yeah Truck Heck shirt! -Hello- from a fellow Goblin Bunker dweller.
This is great to know. I have one of these power supplies but don't actually have a PS2 Slim. Just need to check that it's not one of the fire hazard ones haha.
This is awesome! I just hooked up moat of my consoles (NES, SNES, Genesis 1, 32X, N64, PSX, Dreamcast, PS2, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS3, Wii, Wii U, PS4, Switch) and it's a mess of wires, making a couple adapters should clean it up quite a bit.
With respect to the voltage discussion: The PS2 power supply's voltage isn't going to be too high for anything since most of the consoles in question are designed for 9-10V. It's worth mentioning however that *some* consoles use the power supply voltage directly without a regulator in between. E.g. the SNES uses the input voltage for its audio circuitry, the Sega CD uses it for the disc drive actuators.
This is so cool, I do have one of those just laying around. I guess this means is time to bring out the soldering Iron and to store away those gigantic power supply bricks to clean up my setup
FYI the original NES power adapter output a/c rather than d/c and the rectifier is built into the console. This means that the NES will work fine with center positive or center negative as the rectifier will adapt the phasing.
Para los que tengan una fuente de PS2 la pueden aprovechar pero es una mala opción para alimentar consolas antiguas, la mejor opción es usar las fuentes de alimentación lineales originales. En consolas antiguas como la Snes, NES, Mega Drive, Atari, etc... que se diseñaron para fuentes de alimentación lineales es recomendable usar lineales antes que conmutadas por su señal más limpia, da igual lo buena que sea una conmutada siempre tendrá muchas más interferencias que una lineal regulada.
If you can get by with 5v, 12v, 18v and 24v, the Middle Atlantic PD-DC-125R works great. Tripp Lite has a 16-port USB rack mountable charging station too. I’ve been on a bend to get rid of as many wall warts as possible, and have been buying these used on eBay. For the times I have to use a transformer, I use Triad Magnetics. After having a cheap transformer catch fire, I take these things seriously now.
Thats so great. I Builded my adapter this week. Now I only need 1 power suply for most of my consoles. My consoles sit on a shelf and I take them to my tv when I play them. Thats make the hook up process much easier.
i use ps2 slim and psp chargers for tons of things in my gaming setup! super easy to just swap over when i want to play another console or need to use a different upscaler/converter.
UPDATE: Just found out that Sony recalled PS2 Slim power supplies made between August and December 2004 for being a fire hazard. If you have one of these, check the date on the bottom label, which will tell you the manufacture date.
"Adapters considered at-risk and eligible for the recall are printed with the model number "HP-AT048H03" and have one of the following five date stamps: 2004.8, 2004.9, 2004.10, 2004.11, 2004.12"
Phew saved my bacon with eBay there
Might want to pin this
Im just wondering... Is this Works with mister fpga too ?
@@secretaccount2565 No, MiSTer uses 5v. This would fry it.
one of my 3 was 2004.10 so thanks for the update!
I wish more people understood what a treasure this channel is to retro enthusiasts.
I'm happy with the exposure levels... those who know need to know... and those who don't yet know... will probably come to know... when they need to. Clear? Clear.
@gengar2816 rude
@Gengar go film yourself on camera and I'll be ready to judge ;)
It's a pretty great feeling when the best solution is something you already own. I never would've even considered this. Nice work.
Yeah, with the caveat that you have to spend $50+ on cables to make it work.
@@butchdeadlift7551It worked! I spent about $40 but definitely worth it
@@butchdeadlift7551Those original adapters are aging, someting newer and of good quality like the PS2 PSU is safer to use. And if you count that I spent 50 euros for a newly made PSU for my C64 alone, 50+ dollars to power all your consoles is still a good deal.
P.S. the European SNES adapter outputs AC current, so it cannot be used with the PS2 nor with any other console adapter.
This was a great video. The PS2 Slim PSU is a fantastic general purpose power supply for pretty much all "wall wart" consoles.
It was awesome and exactly what I needed for my setup. I just wish they touched upon power the Atari 2600 since it uses that weird 3.5 mm looking jack.
Is it the same deal with the SCPH-79100 psu?
can you please share the noise and ripple scope results? you may post imgur link here or in shmups forum (VEGETA user). thanks!
i think the psu scope reading in video is not indicative as this should power a 50-60hz console which sips power according to this frequency which means more ripple.
@@LegendaryK4 im using it in my 2600, I just bought a 3.5mm plug and soldered it correctly, absolutely no problem
@@chaosdimension6433 I was able to find on Amazon a 5.5 mm x 2.1 mm to 3.5 mm jack adapter, no soldering required. Thank you though!
Just so you know, the little tabs on the inside of the input jack near the negative contact are crimps that are meant to be pressed down into the shielding on the wires to give it better strength rather than having the solder be the only thing holding the wires on
also easy to say don't tug on any cable wires period.. always unplug and plug using the solid connector
@@TheKayliedGamerChannel-RUclips Agreed, but when giving a tutorial on how to make cables, it should be ensured that all steps are properly followed.
Great video. There are a few comments I'd like to make on it:
First off, there is zero explanation of how a switch mode (switching) power supply works. A switch mode power supply works by switching its output on and off very quickly. It's very efficient, but the downside is that it creates switching noise (as you've probably seen with bad quality third party adapters). Transformers do not use switching and while being less efficient, usually provide cleaner power. You definitely need to be pickier with switching power supplies when using vintage electronics that were not designed around them. This is a good excuse to look into recapping consoles if you haven't already, as those capacitors might already be worn out.
With regards to how noise affects consoles, it's not just the video. It can definitely be the audio as well. Audio equipment is often extremely sensitive to the quality of its power supply. In Hi-Fi, you only started seeing good class D (switching) amplifiers relatively recently. Not very long ago, you needed to go class A or class AB or good quality sound (the downsides to class AB and especially class A are high power consumption).
With regards to splitters and daisy chains: This can lead to interactions between the different devices connected, mainly noise. It will depend on the quality of the filtering in the various consoles. A great example of this is with guitar pedal power supplies. Cheap setups use a daisy chain (splitter) off of a single power supply, which can lead to noise, while higher-end setups will use a power supply with a large number of discrete outputs and internal circuitry to minimize interactions and noise between the pedals in the signal chain.
With regards to building the adapter, those metal tabs that wrap around the wires need to be crimped around the wires. This is to provide extra support so that pulling on the cable, or even just bending it (which causes the wires to flex and stretch) doesn't directly tug on the soldering and conductors.
You can easily upgrade the 7805 (the same as an LM30) if you'd like. I killed one in an old SNES of mine after adding capacitors to smooth out the vertical line issue (I ended up removing the caps as putting them on the video encoder was enough), and I upgraded it to the higher-performance LM340A which has tighter tolerances, so that's another way to improve the power circuitry of a console a bit (you could technically upgrade to a higher amperage regulator if you had a lot of power-sucking mods, but definitely be sure to manage the heat with a good heatsink at that point.
Finally, for buying electronic components, Amazon is not the best go-to. Electronics parts distributors such as Mouser or Digi-Key far better choices with much larger selections and extremely detailed filtering capabilities.
Great video as usual, but this one definitely had some missing details that you guys normally nail.
All of a sudden, PS2 slim power supplies on ebay became more expensive than the PS2 slims they used to be bundled with.
And That is Corey’s eBay account selling them
$20 chill people will always try to capitalize on value in a product. Thats when you dont buy it till the price goes to actual value.
Meh not really I checked when the video first went live and they still went for 14 to 20 bucks
I learned so much from this episode. I spent the rest of the night reading about how power adapters works. Thank you for this introduction. Having Voultar as a special guest to validate what you were saying was a smart move. Again, I thank you for opening my eyes and giving me the confidence to mess with electronics and soldering.
Man this will really clean up my "hidden shame" behind the tv stand. I already used the slim power supply for my PS One with screen, now to grab some of those adapters. Really cool implementation and dont need to buy a $300 bit of kit, score!
Black Spaghetti
Wow this is really useful information! I have 23 consoles hooked up with individual power supplies. Not only is this method great for the space savings, but the clean consistent power is awesome too.
This video came at the perfect time. Over the past few years, I had collected all of my old gaming stuff to just get it together, clean it all up, and test what still works. It's been a slow process with not much time I could put into it, but did recently get around to digging out the old PS2 systems. Turns out I was missing the power supply. I ordered some knockoff on Amazon and confirmed my system still works, but decided I wanted to hunt down an OEM adapter. Either by coming across one at a thrift store/yard sale or going on eBay.
Hadn't found one yet shopping around, but this video showing the benefits of it motivated me to order a couple from eBay. One to keep with the PS2, and one to mess around with for older consoles. Unfortunately, they're $20/ea minimum on eBay (some $30) but I was able to find 2x ~$20 ones that seemed okay enough. They had seemingly reputable sellers and showed enough in the pictures to confirm the 70100 model and manufacture date at the bottom to avoid the recalled ones mentioned in the update posted. Hopefully there's no more issues that pop up and they are both functioning.
Thanks for the video.
Another option, thanks to the USB 4 protocol, is using USB-C wall warts that can output 12V and get adaptors that can take it from USB-C connector to whatever your console needs.
It's basically what they talk about here, except that are going to become more prominent as current supplies of these get taken up.
TBH, it is more complicated and you need specific PD 12V trigger cables.
Also most USB-C PD chargers output up to 100W for a single port you might be hard pressed to get enough USB PD ports or properly speced USB-PD cables that could properly support that amperage.
Yes, USB PD is the way forward, we need more reputable brands providing USB PD chargers and PD trigger cables.
@@timecrash85I think that in some years' time (if not even months) there will be something that takes power from a USB Type C cable and steps it down to the voltage and amperage needed for these electronics. It will become a thing, I'm sure.
@Gabriele V. that already exists.
Anything with a USB-C connector has a controller that tells it how much the device can handle. It's why I can use the same connector and cable to charge my phone (30W max) and my Laptop (55W minimum).
Also, internally, every console has voltage regulators that will step down the input voltage to the needed levels. It's why they don't fry when you plug them into a outlet with dirty voltage.
@@timecrash85 They make USB-PD 9v trigger cables to standard barrel jacks. 9v unlike 12v is still part of the PD spec too, so every adapter you come across should support it.
That is one of the single most useful instructional videos for retro gaming outside your outstanding RGB Video Master Class series. Thank you!
The amount of work that went into this episode must have been massive!
Excellent content! I’m 42 and had most of the popular systems growing up, including a Turbografx. I’m ready to start collecting, especially with this info!
It would be useful if you had a screen with a table showing the names of all retro consoles that can make use of this power supply showing which ones need larger barrel sizes and which ones need reverted center pins
Come to think of it, you can get away with NOT reversing polarity on your 4.8x1.7 F to 5.5x2.1 M adapters, because Castlemania Games sells console specific barrel adapters that reverse polarity for you if necessary (SNES being a prime example), since the Triad power supplies they sell are already Center Positive. I actually have the SNES specific barrel adapter, and just used my multimeter to confirm that it's reverse polarity.
This was a fantastic tip, I actually just finished doing my own setup using these adapters! It makes so much more sense to me to keep everything center positive and then let the console specific adapters reverse the polarity.
avoid castlemania games, they are skummy. check their 1 star BBB rating
Great video Coury! I’ve been interested in learning more about this since I first heard Voultar mention it on Try’s setup reorganizing streams on 5.4.2017. I’m a sucker for a good setup tour 😉… Through the years I’ve used your RGB Master Class and Studio Setup/ Room Tours as a guide for how I’ve evolved my own setup. I really appreciate all the hard work you and Try have put into this channel over the years! You guys are THE reason I got back into video games, retro and modern. Keep being 2R2BR!
Man, forget everything else, this will finally be a solution for the Genesis/CD/32x! One reliable adapter for all three is wonderful. Only took 67 years, but we now have the solution; and of course it came from these guys. Great vid and info, as always!
And thanks for the update in the description, that's great to know.
Umm… 67?
@@happyspaceinvader508 You're right, it's probably closer to 68 or 69 years now; but when I round up years it makes me feel even older.
Wow... I never guessed a video would be made on this!! I changed the barrel connector on one of my Slim PSUs for a 5.5*2.1 a while ago so I could use it with my Mega Drive and MegaCD which I had modded internally to run off a single power supply, and saw it gave plenty of amps for it, as well as being a clean power. I have changed the polarity needs on several systems of mine to use this same PSU, and I just pull out the system I want to play at that moment and plug it into this supply, including my Sinclair micros and SMS. I even installed a barrel socket for it on my old Atari VCS/2600.
I find consolidating this way much better, no old PSUs all over the place, no accidentally using the wrong polarity on a system, no issues at all.
I know this will probably be buried by now and is more of a fringe/weird case, but I wasn't able to get this to power my Atari Jaguar and CD properly. I was getting video artifacts and errors consistently, even when they were the only devices plugged into the PS2 power supply. Genesis, Super Nintendo and AV Famicom all work great, but just had issues with the Jagaur. I'm sure this will only be of benefit to a handful of Jaguar weirdos and might even be user error, but just wanted that out there. Fantastic video and very happy with how it eliminates wall warts and dodgy replacement power supplies!
Wow! This is pretty cool. Personally, I'll stick with using triads for my old consoles. However, it is really really neat that this is possible. I also always appreciate a Voultar cameo.
Ya I'm all set up with the triad also. Works great
would love to see an updated video detailing y’all’s current setup for recording/streaming!
8:32
I don't know about the other consoles, but the NES and SNES both have an internal rectifier, which means their input is AC. This means, they will run with the correct voltage (and enough current) regardless of the polarity of the barrel plug. Maybe the models of my NES and/or SNES are somehow special, so if you're readong this make sure to check your own console's label.
Careful- from what I've seen ONLY the PAL SNES accepts AC. Everything I've read indicates the US SNES expects 10V Center Negative DC.
I've been using splitter cables and adaptors on a 9 V brick for years. It's about time somebody made a video about such a thing.
This is incredibly niche but super useful. I don’t actually own anything pre-PS2 and just use MiSTer for it but I’m happy to know that if for whatever reason I get a tower of power I can just get a power splitter and go from there hahah. Keep up the good work as always. Fun to see Mr. Power Supply himself, Voultar, as well.
The info you propose in this video is gold for presevation point of prespective. Thanks!
Finally bit the bullet and did this after putting it off for months. Was able to replace six power bricks and two power strips! I used a terminal block instead of soldering though for my adaptor/polarity reverse cable. My setup is just that much less cumbersome now.
Great video!
Oh yeah baby! It’s a good day when MLiG releases a new video!
Dang, didn't they used to charge like $50 for those retro game cave Genesis trio power supplies? I'm guessing all the Triad solutions are still fine. I'm a bit surprised they didn't even get a mention. My first thought went to them when seeing the video.
This might be the only time I'm sad I have a PS2 Fat, haha. Ahh well. What a cool video, thanks for sharing!
The biggest revelation is that I can indeed safely use my PS2 Slim power adapter with my 32X. It's the only system in my setup that can't be used with my awesome TRIAD PSU, which is even compatible with my 9 volt Neo Geo AES. I do plan on getting a PC Engine Duo RX at some point, so it's good to know I can safely use it with a power supply i already have lying around.
If I didn't already have Triad PSUs for most of my systems I would definitely do this. Great video.
Nice to see Coury repping Truck Heck.
I've been powering my Duo R with a slim ps2 PSU for years but never thought to use splitters/plug adapters to power multiple systems from one PSU. Great info, thanks.
As a long time guitar player, I am already intimately familiar with checking AC adapters for miliamps, calculating loads and splitting one power supply into 8 barrels. So this is a cool idea.
That gives me an idea, do you think that the 8.5V would be enough to use it for guitar pedal board purposes?
@@theloach5458 most pedals are at 9v so maybe? But honestly there is an entire fucking industry of "noiseless pedal power supply" bs and you can get lost in it for hours. I bought a power supply off amazon for $10 and a splitter and never looked back, but I'm only powering 10 pedals.
@@OnslaughtSix nice! Thanks for the reply! :)
Nes and Pal Snes have an internal bridge rectifire, that means that they will accept
AC, DC center positive or DC center negative
Forr NES that is thrue but NTSC SNES dosen`t have bridge rectifier.
@@draganandjelkovic4838 My PAL Snes "power supply" is just a transformer in a box. I thought that would be the same for the NTSC one. Thanks for clarifying
One luxury of having only Japanese import cartridge-based systems is I can use the same 9v power supply for my Famicom, PC Engine, Mega Drive, and Super Famicom. I live off grid with solar power on a 12v lithium system, so I looked into making DC-DC power supplies for all my retro consoles. But because I'm not an expert, it caused some ground loop issue that could damage the systems, so I went back to using AC Adapters running off my inverter, even though it's less efficient going from DC-AC-DC again. I also have picoPSU for my Saturn, Playstation, and Dreamcast, but again, that caused some ground loop issues, and my original stock interal PSUs are still working fine, so I went back to using an AC cable for those. The biggest thing I'd want to DC mod someday would be the CRT I use. There are 12v CRTs made for portability, but mine doesn't have that, so it'd be really nice to be able to use direct DC input on one and save some power. This is an edge case that there's not much interest in, so I've been forging my own path on this. Next step is to study the circuits in these AC adapters to see what they do with the DC output to isolate it, protect it, etc. and apply that to my own dc-dc circuit.
Never thought of this; this is amazing. I've never had the displeasure of needing a third-party PSU for my systems, but now I can certainly avoid it. This will also cleanup my CRT setup considerably.
Never trust a guy who wears sunglasses indoors
😂💯%👊
🎵Don't trust the guyyyy, in shadessss oh nooooo!!! 🎵
And a cool mic. 🎤
👍😎👍
Straight up!
That's a great idea - I suggest getting some blue masking tape to label each cord so you know you're plugging it in to the right system.
Now you gave me probably the best reason why to love my PS2 slim 😊
I might be mistaken but I believe the Korg Volca is centre positive with a 4.8 x 1.7 mum barrel tip. Daisy chains for those that power multiple Volcas off of one PSU are readily available. So this might be a good alternative to doing the whole conversion to 5.5x2.2mm thing
Update - I have tested this with a korg volca daisy chain adapter and have confirmed it works perfectly. Now have my Sega megadrive and ps2 slim sharing the same PSU
@@Brdo666 Sounds cool, but does this let you use any 5.5 x 2.1mm systems? Converting to that first was because most adapters available now were made for the Triad which has 5.5 x 2.1mm center positive to start with.
@@bobrocks95 you’d still have to convert for other systems, but this is a good alternative if you’re like me and are only looking to power systems using a 4.8 x 1.7 mm barrel. I don’t own any systems that require 5.5 x 2.2mm
I made my own one of these that has a power supply that's 9VDC@5A
It was years ago, so I used the original cables from the busted wall warts for each system: NES*2, Genesis (1 and 2), Atari 2600, Atari 7800, SNES. For the Nintendo consoles, their bricks supplied ~10VAC, so feeding these +9VDC center-positive (and REGULATED, unlike the originals) was no problem. They just regulate down to +5VDC after passing through a bridge rectifier.
The others were originally supplied with unregulated DC. For center-positive systems, just adapt and plug in. The 7800 is an oddball. For that Genesis 1, I built my own bridge rectifier and installed it inside so that either my center-positive supply or the original center-negative one worked. I had previously swapped the cable inside so it was center-positive, but recently undid that.
A bit of a torture test was indeed for me to power on every system I supported at once. My supply also has a voltmeter and ammeter so I can tell if the current draw is getting too high. I knew I wouldn't have more than a couple on at once normally, and it passed the test, so all's good.
I used this PS2 slim adapter for my DIY audio amplifier as my hands-on school project. I modified the output voltage from 8.5V to 12 Volts DC by soldering a different resistor beside a TL431 voltage reference IC inside of the power supply. And it works well!
Here are some of my observations:
- The circuit board has a Delta brand marking.
- The entire power supply is EMI-shielded with metal sheet.
- The transformer is also EMI-shielded.
- The output has an inductor in series for further EMI filtering.
- The output has class Y capacitors connected to each mains AC input terminal.
- The capacitor (82μF 400V) of the primary side is not auto-discharged when it is not plugged in. There's NO bleeder resistor across the capacitor. It's because the switching regulator IC is powered by a separate half wave rectifier from AC input. For safety, I soldered a 2 megaohm bleeder resistor (two 1 megaohm 1/4 watt resistors in series) across it to discharge it to under 10 volts in 30 minutes when it's unplugged.
Got any schematic of your work, I think that a 12V modded psu with a reDream PSU might be good
This video has been such a huge help to me. I think it's my favorite video this year. Thanks for the quality content.
Nice! Never knew this. I am still just amazed by MLiG’s video production quality. I wish you guys would do a video on your production setup.
Those old school bricks are called linear power supplies, they aren't as efficient as switch mode PSUs but even mediocre linear supply will provide output cleaner from the best switch mode supplies, that's not to say switch mode supplies are bad but there's a reason why all of high precision electronics lab instruments and high end audio hardware use Linear PSUs
Thats the reason i got a Linear bech power supply instead of a cheap switching one. Is heavier, bigger and have less Amperes and was more expensive than a switching one, but i know i have a stable voltage without any noise. I connect my consoles to this bench when iam making repairs or testing a console, and iam sure if i see any noise, its not from power supply :).
When I moved a few years ago in anticipation of the birth of my daughter, the "game room" unfortunately got the boot. I've been attempting to streamline a drop in system. Packing all systems in another room with their respective cables. Having a single power adapter in the living room and small adapters on each system would absolutely better the streamline. Thanks C!
Using a single DC supply plugged into multiple consoles simultaneously can cause some weird issues sometimes, usually related to ground loops.
One example is that if you use a single power supply for a tower of power *and* you're using the Genesis's AV or headphone out, you may notice the audio is a bit noisy. Using the RCA out of the sega CD or giving the CD unit its own power supply can cut that noise down.
If they exist, using an A/V switch that also switches the grounds is ideal, as it can eliminate ground loops created by having the power and AV grounds of all your consoles connected together.
kind of amazed not more people knew about this, even though I don't have a Ps2 slim anymore i kept one of these power supplies as it's very useful for powering all sorts of devices
A wild Voultar appeared! ❤
I didn't even know power supplies for the PlayStation 2 slim existed. I don't think I've ever seen one before. Back when I would go to yard sales you'd see lots of PlayStation 2 slims but you'd never find any power supplies. At one point I had five consoles without a power supply and I didn't sell any of them because I wanted to test if they were working first and I thought eventually I'd find a power supply.
Wrong polarity is always to be avoided, but for the sake of completeness, I'll give my understanding of what can *actually* happen with the consoles I'm actually familiar with:
- A sega genesis or mega drive by itself has polarity protection, so you won't damage it--it just won't work
- I *believe* Nintendo consoles made for the Japanese market also have polarity protection, but cannot be 100% sure
- An American SNES however, absolutely *will* fry if you give it reverse polarity.
- Reverse polarity into a sega CD will blow the fuse, pretty reliably
- Finally, if you hook up a sega CD and a genesis with correct polarity in one but reverse polarity in the other, you short your power supply through the systems' grounds! If you're lucky your power supply will just cut out. However, if you are using something beefy like a 5A power supply this could be very bad news.
- The above can also happen with two consoles that have their AV cables grounds tied together (by your video signal path). This makes reverse polarity dangerous even for consoles where it normally wouldn't be.
PAL NES uses AC input so in that case polarity doesn't matter. It's converted to DC internally and DC power supply will work equally good.
@@bitdevice so do US NES and PAL SNES.
With PAL SNES there's an additional caveat which is that it can't generate the SCART 12V (for auto-switching) without an AC input. If you power it from DC that voltage will be lower so it may auto-switch in widescreen mode (which people don't usually want).
Always stick with official power supplies when you can.
Whenever I got a generic power supply, I always measure the voltage from it. Got a generic Genesis one that was rated over 5 volts higher than it should have been.
Glad to see a great alternative.
This is the content I subscribed for back in the day. Super useful my dudes. 🎉
Nice one. I think the Megadrive/MCD/32X power brick combo alone warrants giving this a try.
I just got done making one for this very setup. The sega cd has a loud buzzing when accessing the discs. Seems fine on the genesis and 32x though. I swapped back out for an official psu for the sega cd and the problem is gone.
Excellent video! The only improvement I can suggest is to add an overcurrent or overload protection circuit off the end of the PS2 adaptor. That way, even if you accidentally leave too many devices on, you can't accidentally damage the power supply
I have a non-functioning PS2 Slim, but kept the power supply lying around. I'm glad to have a use for it (and finally be able to hookup up all of my consoles in my CRT corner).
I never knew that the PS2 slim had such a good cable. Great video as always!
11:29 "The red wire is positive, the black wire is negative". I think that's a little confusing when it's a loose plug, i'd suggest saying if it's tip or sleeve instead, since that's what really matters here, the polarity comes when you hook it up, if you decided to hook it up as a straight cable or a polarity switcher. Also you should squeeze those tabs around the wire, they act as extra strain relief so a soldering joint doesn't break and short out things. Also as a precaution I'd always recommend checking with a multimeter when making a cable like that, just to be sure. You can never really be sure about which tab goes where on plugs for soldering like that.
You read my mind, my Genesis 1 power supply sucks, it haz a buzzing sound and every time I try another one I get some kind of artifact on the image, so this video is such a blessing!
I'll probably modify one to chech if this solves my issues.
So I ordered one off German Ebay from a vendor that was, according to his provided images, selling an SPCH-70100; turns out it was actually just 1 model out of many he is selling without paying any attention to the revisions. What was delivered to me now is an SCPH-79100, which is extra unfortunate, because it is the only PSU model out of the bunch that delivers 38.25 watts instead of the expected 48 watts due to lower amperage, 4.5 instead of 5.65.
Maybe this heads-up will prove useful to another potential buyer.
I bought a bunch of those PS2 slims power supplies to use on of my systems several years ago. It works great.
Dang this was a super helpful and insightful video! I’ve got stupid long power strips that can have 12 things plugged in and have like 3 of them. This is gonna save me so much with the absolute mess of cables I have. Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!
Never thought I'd see a Skygunner disk in a random video that came across my feed. But you know, I'm pleasantly surprised.
Bummer to hear about the video noise from the trio for the tower of power. I can't see it myself though, especially on CRT's, so I'll still keep it.
Power Up!
Nice share ⚡⚡👋
I made a barrel adaptor for an Official Game Gear Battery pack to fit my Turbo Express BITD, saved me a fortune in batteries. 😅
I'd add a disclaimer to this type of video - any modifications at your own risk ✌️
The last thing I need right now is another rabbit hole like this to fall down 😭 extremely cool use for this though. Thanks for spreading the info
A 17+ minute video about a power supply from my favourite channel? Heck yes, I'll watch it! =D
Catching up on MLiG, and I just wanna say…the shot at 0:33 looks fantastic.
Would you two be interested in doing another room/setup tour? It’s been ages since the last one.
No shot is superfluous: I need explanations of the TV stands, console cubbies, docks, chargers, everything
I was very close to starting a USB C project for my older consoles (Linus Tech Tips did a video on this), but this is WAY better! Definitely gonna hunt one down for safe keeping.
Great Video as always, extra kudos for the Truck Heck Shirt 🤘
This is perfect! I have a rack mountable power strip with switches on the front to keep everything clean, but that is still not enough. The Sega tower of power really is an outlet hog, but I got the parts, and now the Sega Genesis, 32x, Sega CD, plus the NES and SNES use only one outlet. Amazing solution.
hey keep us updated. I just build this for a sega tower of power but ended up using an OG psu on the sega cd as the home made cable was making the console produce a loud byzzing noise when accessing the disc.
I've spent so much effort on getting all my AC wiring just right with strips and extensions and adaptors.... I can't wait to do it all again but better this way, haha.
Also; ah yeah Truck Heck shirt! -Hello- from a fellow Goblin Bunker dweller.
This is great to know. I have one of these power supplies but don't actually have a PS2 Slim. Just need to check that it's not one of the fire hazard ones haha.
finally back to videos why I subbed you guys instead of live videos of you playing classics
This is awesome! I just hooked up moat of my consoles (NES, SNES, Genesis 1, 32X, N64, PSX, Dreamcast, PS2, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS3, Wii, Wii U, PS4, Switch) and it's a mess of wires, making a couple adapters should clean it up quite a bit.
Well happy days I have a 70100 already! This is great info and I'll be using this a lot more it now, time to free up some plug sockets! Thanks dude!
Sony bricks in general are SUPER useful. Never throw one away!
Already got triads, but this is perfect for spare for work benches or traveling without messing setup or spending money
With respect to the voltage discussion: The PS2 power supply's voltage isn't going to be too high for anything since most of the consoles in question are designed for 9-10V. It's worth mentioning however that *some* consoles use the power supply voltage directly without a regulator in between. E.g. the SNES uses the input voltage for its audio circuitry, the Sega CD uses it for the disc drive actuators.
Dang this is rad. I think I have one in my basement cables box, I’ll probably try to do this. Thanks for the video!
this is a great PSA, cant wait to set this up and declutter my power bar area around the PVM setup!
Took me almost a year to get around to tackling this project, but here we go!
Wow...this is why I love RUclips. I will be fixing the mess of wires I have behind my entertainment center. You made my wife happy.
This is so cool, I do have one of those just laying around. I guess this means is time to bring out the soldering Iron and to store away those gigantic power supply bricks to clean up my setup
Wonderful, I've got my Turbo Duo R today, just using my old ps2 power supply adapter did the trick!, thanks for the video!
FYI the original NES power adapter output a/c rather than d/c and the rectifier is built into the console. This means that the NES will work fine with center positive or center negative as the rectifier will adapt the phasing.
Para los que tengan una fuente de PS2 la pueden aprovechar pero es una mala opción para alimentar consolas antiguas, la mejor opción es usar las fuentes de alimentación lineales originales. En consolas antiguas como la Snes, NES, Mega Drive, Atari, etc... que se diseñaron para fuentes de alimentación lineales es recomendable usar lineales antes que conmutadas por su señal más limpia, da igual lo buena que sea una conmutada siempre tendrá muchas más interferencias que una lineal regulada.
If you can get by with 5v, 12v, 18v and 24v, the Middle Atlantic PD-DC-125R works great. Tripp Lite has a 16-port USB rack mountable charging station too. I’ve been on a bend to get rid of as many wall warts as possible, and have been buying these used on eBay. For the times I have to use a transformer, I use Triad Magnetics. After having a cheap transformer catch fire, I take these things seriously now.
Can’t wait for Michael Kerwin's TRUCK HECK! Ain’t no seat belts on this ride!
ALL the experts I trust wear sunglasses indoors, sport Pokémon bracelets, and speak from a pink microphone. It's how I've survived this long.
This is fascinating, I'll look for this adapter
Wonder how it stacks up against the Triad PSUs, as per FirebrandX
I can highly recommend Retro Game Supply, been using them since 2017. No video noise or audio hum.
Seems a versatile piece of kit.
Thats so great. I Builded my adapter this week. Now I only need 1 power suply for most of my consoles.
My consoles sit on a shelf and I take them to my tv when I play them. Thats make the hook up process much easier.
i use ps2 slim and psp chargers for tons of things in my gaming setup! super easy to just swap over when i want to play another console or need to use a different upscaler/converter.
Now to watch this 17 times...