Great vid Sean. Its also good practice to go over the mating surface on the hubs with a soft wire brush to make sure there is no rust causing a potential problem with the new rotors not sitting flat.
Turns out the brakes were operating fine after I finished filming this video, so I think I got very lucky. So definitely don't take this job on if you're not up for a challenge!
Maybe its because you didn't clean the rotor surface, it has a thin film of grease to mitigate rusting. Also, did you release the handbrake when doing the rears?
DBA zinc coated or RDA using a similar sacrificial coating with a gun metal finish are my go-to. In terms of pads, I either use Repco RCT ceramics general or HD version, RDA extreme pads or my now favourite Bremtec Evolve hybrid carbon pads. The AU is so old, I would get the calipers rebuilt. Wouldn't spend more than $150 each end, front and rear. That's about the going rate, anyone quoting more is probably taking you for a ride. If you can buy rebuilt calipers cheaper online, do that.
Can’t fault your job there, in fact you’ve done a better job than a lot of so called “mechanics” with the certificate on their workshop wall (because their customers need reassurance). Also will vouch for the Bendix GCT pads for daily use and abuse. I tried Ultimates once but all they did was trash my wheels and I was cleaning them more often!
Nice job Sean, you mentioned you would do a brake bleed soon which will complete the task. That will give you the piece of mind knowing the job is done as far as you can take it. I always do new brake fluid when changing rotors/pads. Doesn't take much more time and saves having to go back and remove wheels again. Not a criticism at all. I like watching a guy have a go, not an expert but doesn't purport to be one. It shows keen but inexperienced people that they too can have a go. I would like to see the brake booster adjustment video if you have time. Keep up the good work.
@MotoringBox The issue with AU to BF brakes is that the brake booster rod winds out through time and keeps the front brakes on, making them overheat. This warps the disc slightly and usually causes steering wheel vibration/shudder. The fix is to wind the booster back in and replace discs and pads. Machining will only be temporary, the issue will happen again. Do a quick internet search for "BA/BF brake shudder". This happens at around 100km/h+. Many people confuse it with wheels needing a balance. Peace.
Great video Sean! I love how you are fully honest with any issues that you have with the job you’ve done. Anybody could lie and release a video of a job that goes as smooth as silk but the reality of working on old cars is that it rarely happens that way! Keep up the great work!
Love your videos Sean. Biggest myth on the internet is Falcon's warping rotors. 99.9% of the time is due to run-out caused by poor installation - must ensure you thoroughly clean the mating surface between hub and rotor. I have a BF and an AU and none of them have ever suffered "warping" in over 500,000ks combined. Get those calipers seen to - it will come back and bite you :-)
Certainly not a myth at all. it's the reason NSW Police fitted DBA rotors to the EF & EL XR8 HWP cars before they were put into service. My EF XR6 developed brake shudder before the 10,000km service. At the 20,000km service they had warped, cracked and hot spotted. Ford machined the rotors (despite telling me they were replaced) Before 25,000km they were totally stuffed. I went to DBA Slotted rotors & the issue went away.
My boss was complaining of this issue on his 06 Territory, we tried cleaning and re-lubing the slide and cleaning everything the first time, second time we adjusted the master cylinder rod and didn't help much. Third time we bought second loved callipers (I serviced and lubed), new rotors, pads, 1,5L brake fluid and went to work on redoing the whole lot. Couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the old brake fluid come out - 16 years old and was black and full of god knows what - full flush blowing it all out... He's happy it works now, car seems to drive better too...
Good on you for being honest, some would've posted the 1st half of the video and said it's an easy job. DIY'ing an old car is always a lottery of things breaking or going wrong. I do work on my 2003 car but I don't touch brakes and suspension in case I stuff up something and it's off the road for days.
I just did the pads+rotors on my BA ute yesterday which turned out to be the exact same process! I was also doing mine to address vibration and brake shuddering issues. From the driving around I did afterwards I'm very happy with the Bendix pads (I'm pretty sure I used the exact same pads+rotors that you did!).
Hi Sean. Also easier to use the old brake pads to push the piston back in. Can then be sure the piston is pushed perfectly straight back. If putting the g-clamp straight on the piston have the potential to push with a slight angle and can damage it.
Great video mate, I had the same problem with my AUII Fairlane, it had a violent shudder on braking especially when going down hill. A set of new pads and discs fixed it right up. I will comment though on the technique for adjusting the park brake, the park brake adjuster is actually between the shoes (on the other side of the spring you mentioned) and can be tightened through an access hole, the idea is to tighten the adjuster with the disc on until you can’t turn the rear axle hub, then back it off 3 clicks and then spin it and make sure there is no drag. I find the cable adjuster in the cabin is just to take out the slack in the cable. Anyway, good job. Cheers buddy.
Hi Sean, just a little tip here for you. It really is quite imperative that after you have removed the old rotor it is important to give the surface of the wheel Hub a thorough clean. Usually a good soak of brake cleaner and a very carefull scrub with a scotch pad or similar to remove all that old surface rust that has built up., Although it doesn;t look like much but a small build up of grime here can really interfere with how well the new disc rotor locates against the hub itself. If this isn't cleaned off it can lead to run out and earl;y advanced warping and shuddering of the new disc. I noticed you commented on some drag with the new disc by rectifying the above this may well greatly improve those symptoms. Hope this is helpful Also with retracting the pistons in the calipers I'm sure you remembered to take the cover of the Brake Master Cylinder as this allows air to escape as you compress them Nick
Better still, undo the bleed valve so the dirty fluid is discharged to waste instead of sending it back to the master cylinder or worse, into the ABS controller if it has one.
Good to see your rotors came off easily - I did the rotors on my VX a couple of months back and had to buy a 5 ton gear puller to get the rotors to move, they were rusted on that badly. Obviously hadn't been done for a long time.
Ah yes the old brake booster!! I warped a set of rotors, then almost another set 😳. Every oil change I spin the wheels after a drive to make sure it's not binding and happy days 👌
I had to replace my front rotors not long after buying my AU because they warped. I bought DBA slotted and cross drilled rotors for all four wheels which also improved the vehicles braking ability
Wouldn't hurt to do a decent video on adjusting the booster. There are a few and they ain't great was going to do this myself but I'm not really in the making video game. So much of the issues with warping is blamed on the bad brakes but this is actually the root cause. Never had an issue on my Turbo since setting it up correctly 2 years and 60 thou kms ago.
I recently did the front pads on my KE Laser and found the sliding pins seized and they are not as easy to work on as the Falcon's. I had to resort to reattaching the caliper and using a hammer to get one to move so I could take it out to lube it up. I actually watched a Polish video without translation available as it was the only one I could find on unbinding the pins on the BF Mazda Familia/323 /KE Laser 1986 -1990 models. Watching how he lubed these peculiar pins turned out a great help as well as consulting two different workshop manuals!!
Did this and yes the front pistons on the calipers were making the brakes stick on ,rather than rebuild the calipers I put new on ,so if your changing rotors and pads , definitely rebuild the calipers so that they open and close properly
I have learnt to pump my brake pedal (to compress the caliper over the pads) before tightening the slide pin bolts. Failing to do so can warp new rotors cause the slide pins might not adjust in parallel on the first compression. I learnt the hard way :(
I've replaced one caliper on mine and replaced all the rotors still have to replace the other 3 but the car hasn't had any issues since I replaced the caliper so just been waiting to get the $$.
Some manufacturers say not to, but it's a good practice. I used a hand towel and acetone and a fair amount of black stuff came off a brand new out of the bag rotor.
I noticed you have sensors on your new pads. Had a ve commodore and they have inner and outer pads. They have to be the correct type. Just a thought. Great vid sean.
Nice Job Sean but as others have commented, you did miss a few pieces to make up the video. I would have gone for front DBA slotted and cross drilled rotors for better braking performance. A good video for someone who's on a budget who wants to take on the job themselves.
Cross drilled rotors crack. They also reduce the surface area of the brake pads, thus reducing the rotor's ability to do its job as a heat sink. Why do you think supercars and other serious race cars only use slotted rotors?
@@doug-core8850 The only similarity with a super car to a normal car is body panels. I've used slotted and cross drilled rotors for years and I swear by them for better braking under normal driving conditions. A few metres of better stopping distance can mean the difference of a major accident or saving lives. We dont drive supercars on the street.
Awesome vid bro. Quick question, have you considered going with upgraded/braided brake lines? They sell them in sets of four on eBay and apparently they're one of the best things you can do with an AU. Especially a series 1. The brakes on them are bit of a joke standard.
@@MotoringBoxTV Fair enough. Being a series 2 it would be a better performance out of the braking system than my 1999 series 1. At least it stops, let's put it that way. 😂
Lines alone dont effect braking performance. They're only ment to replace rubber lines that would be subjected to alot of heat. Rubber expands with heat and actually decreases line pressure under load when the lines are hot. But you're probably never going to get your fluid hot enough to melt the lines or feel the changes in the peddle on the street.
Job done well.a d you really dont need to have the caliper sent away just a little compressed air in the line when removed will pop rhose pistons out and then some very very fine emery cloth to clean rhem and there cups up then reinstall taking care not to damage the o rings..and good to go...john...Willaura..😎
Awesome I just did the rear rotors brakes and wheel bearings on my 4wd, lots of fun, I do not recommend doing this again........Maybe the front will be easier? 🤣
I haven't gotten to the end yet but I don't think you told us to remember to release the handbrake before trying to remove the rear rotor? That's definitely important to know. And in some cars is required before removing the caliper... But, besides that and cleaning up the hub before fitting the new rotor (it can sometimes be a source of vibration or noise, less of an issue here in Aus but in rusty countries it's important) I can't fault the first 8.5 mins :-) now to finish it off
My other little top tip with changing brakes is keep an eye on the fluid level - if it's been topped up at any point in the life of the current brakes, when you push the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads, the reservoir could well overflow. I know because it's happened to me. That was a fun mess to clean up. But, good video mate and +1 for making the adjustment video, that's one thing I haven't done before.
I did all my brand new rotors and pads for wof myself. I had a bitch of a time doing them the first problem was adjusting the handbrake in the hole of the rotor with a small flathead breaking my neck trying to do it. Tap it too much it's too tight tap it other way it's to loose🤦. And then I just saw you say You can adjust it where the handbrake boot is lol. 2nd problem I put one of my break pads on the other way went to bed them in and it was just making horrible squeaking thinking it's just the bedding process but I knew I stuffed up somewhere. So went back home jacked up car and behold pads on wrong way and another hour of adjusting hand break 🤦😆.
Hey man, it's possible to free up a sticking caliper by repeatedly pushing the piston in with a G clamp and then using the brake pedal to extend it again a few times. Did it with my old BMW with 4 pot calipers which were sticking really badly due to car sitting for years. Thanks for all the videos
On a side note, If you have a shudder in your brake pedal it probably the rear rotors, if you have a shudder in your steering wheel its probably the front rotors 👍
It's funny iv been watching this video recently done my rotors and brake pads on my s2 fairlane vct and the same thing is happening on the same side definitely just going to go with new calipers haha. 😅
DBA Street performance pads would be a much better pad than bendix CT, almost zero dust, waynless wear, and an upgraded friction material that can handle more heat if required.
To get this done on just the front end caliper rebuild new rotors pads fluid. It's about 1008.00 as my caliper is seized and so the mechanic wants to replace both even though one side already has a brand new caliper done :/ anyway once it's done my au3 should be good as gold
Hey mate, I had a similar problem on my AU Falcon just a few months back. One of my front callipers seized and started dragging. I needed to get it fixed because the brakes were burning. Pads and discs were new so that wasn't the problem. Turns out the calliper pistons were stuck due to poor maintenance from the previous owner. It only cost me about $250 at my local garage to have the front callipers overhauled. You can get an overhaul kit from Repco for cheaper but I wasn't confident in doing that myself. Keep an eye on them because due to it's age the callipers may be on their way out. I think HubNut had a similar problem too! ruclips.net/video/2RygIA9H64Y/видео.html
I replaced the pads But now the new pads rubbing on the old disc like a grinding noise So gonna get new disc This probably doesn’t make any sense but u probably under stand the issue
I'm currently at college doing mechanics, my tutor says you don't have to as new cars coming off the assembly line don't have any, in some cases it can be detrimental as some pad designs don't have clips instead relying on a double sided tape style adhesive which of course wouldn't work with the grease at all, anyway
Interesting video. I just replaced my FGs master cylinder and booster. Can't find new parts anywhere at the moment (and for some time apparently). I was forced to install parts from a wreck. Not ideal. Hopefully these parts come back online soon. Then I will replace them again.
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Great vid Sean. Its also good practice to go over the mating surface on the hubs with a soft wire brush to make sure there is no rust causing a potential problem with the new rotors not sitting flat.
Turns out the brakes were operating fine after I finished filming this video, so I think I got very lucky. So definitely don't take this job on if you're not up for a challenge!
My brother did the breaks on his AU
Also when are you going to show us your new wheels
Maybe its because you didn't clean the rotor surface, it has a thin film of grease to mitigate rusting. Also, did you release the handbrake when doing the rears?
DBA zinc coated or RDA using a similar sacrificial coating with a gun metal finish are my go-to.
In terms of pads, I either use Repco RCT ceramics general or HD version, RDA extreme pads or my now favourite Bremtec Evolve hybrid carbon pads.
The AU is so old, I would get the calipers rebuilt. Wouldn't spend more than $150 each end, front and rear. That's about the going rate, anyone quoting more is probably taking you for a ride.
If you can buy rebuilt calipers cheaper online, do that.
I wouldn’t mind seeing that brake booster adjustment. There are not a lot of videos out there on that fix.
Theres a tonne of videos on it look up videos for BA they use same brake booster same as territorys you'll find a video it's such an easy fix
Can’t fault your job there, in fact you’ve done a better job than a lot of so called “mechanics” with the certificate on their workshop wall (because their customers need reassurance).
Also will vouch for the Bendix GCT pads for daily use and abuse. I tried Ultimates once but all they did was trash my wheels and I was cleaning them more often!
Nice job Sean, you mentioned you would do a brake bleed soon which will complete the task. That will give you the piece of mind knowing the job is done as far as you can take it.
I always do new brake fluid when changing rotors/pads. Doesn't take much more time and saves having to go back and remove wheels again.
Not a criticism at all.
I like watching a guy have a go, not an expert but doesn't purport to be one. It shows keen but inexperienced people that they too can have a go.
I would like to see the brake booster adjustment video if you have time.
Keep up the good work.
@MotoringBox The issue with AU to BF brakes is that the brake booster rod winds out through time and keeps the front brakes on, making them overheat. This warps the disc slightly and usually causes steering wheel vibration/shudder. The fix is to wind the booster back in and replace discs and pads. Machining will only be temporary, the issue will happen again. Do a quick internet search for "BA/BF brake shudder". This happens at around 100km/h+. Many people confuse it with wheels needing a balance. Peace.
Great video Sean! I love how you are fully honest with any issues that you have with the job you’ve done. Anybody could lie and release a video of a job that goes as smooth as silk but the reality of working on old cars is that it rarely happens that way! Keep up the great work!
It was very frustrating!
Love your videos Sean. Biggest myth on the internet is Falcon's warping rotors. 99.9% of the time is due to run-out caused by poor installation - must ensure you thoroughly clean the mating surface between hub and rotor. I have a BF and an AU and none of them have ever suffered "warping" in over 500,000ks combined. Get those calipers seen to - it will come back and bite you :-)
Certainly not a myth at all. it's the reason NSW Police fitted DBA rotors to the EF & EL XR8 HWP cars before they were put into service.
My EF XR6 developed brake shudder before the 10,000km service. At the 20,000km service they had warped, cracked and hot spotted. Ford machined the rotors (despite telling me they were replaced) Before 25,000km they were totally stuffed.
I went to DBA Slotted rotors & the issue went away.
I dont even own a falcon yet find these videos really entertaining all the time. I gotta do the brakes on my WH soon as well
Cheers mate. WH's are awesome!
My boss was complaining of this issue on his 06 Territory, we tried cleaning and re-lubing the slide and cleaning everything the first time, second time we adjusted the master cylinder rod and didn't help much.
Third time we bought second loved callipers (I serviced and lubed), new rotors, pads, 1,5L brake fluid and went to work on redoing the whole lot.
Couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the old brake fluid come out - 16 years old and was black and full of god knows what - full flush blowing it all out...
He's happy it works now, car seems to drive better too...
Good on you for being honest, some would've posted the 1st half of the video and said it's an easy job. DIY'ing an old car is always a lottery of things breaking or going wrong. I do work on my 2003 car but I don't touch brakes and suspension in case I stuff up something and it's off the road for days.
I just did the pads+rotors on my BA ute yesterday which turned out to be the exact same process! I was also doing mine to address vibration and brake shuddering issues. From the driving around I did afterwards I'm very happy with the Bendix pads (I'm pretty sure I used the exact same pads+rotors that you did!).
Good job mate! Enjoy the smoothness!
I think your right with caliper overhaul and it's not as hard or expensive, so give it a go
Hi Sean. Also easier to use the old brake pads to push the piston back in. Can then be sure the piston is pushed perfectly straight back. If putting the g-clamp straight on the piston have the potential to push with a slight angle and can damage it.
Great video mate, I had the same problem with my AUII Fairlane, it had a violent shudder on braking especially when going down hill. A set of new pads and discs fixed it right up.
I will comment though on the technique for adjusting the park brake, the park brake adjuster is actually between the shoes (on the other side of the spring you mentioned) and can be tightened through an access hole, the idea is to tighten the adjuster with the disc on until you can’t turn the rear axle hub, then back it off 3 clicks and then spin it and make sure there is no drag. I find the cable adjuster in the cabin is just to take out the slack in the cable.
Anyway, good job. Cheers buddy.
Another very informative vid Sean, nice one! The ‘give it to me all night baby’ soundtrack did push me over the edge though😂😂😂😂👍🏼
Hi Sean,
just a little tip here for you.
It really is quite imperative that after you have removed the old rotor it is important to give the surface of the wheel Hub a thorough clean.
Usually a good soak of brake cleaner and a very carefull scrub with a scotch pad or similar to remove all that old surface rust that has built up.,
Although it doesn;t look like much but a small build up of grime here can really interfere with how well the new disc rotor locates against the hub itself.
If this isn't cleaned off it can lead to run out and earl;y advanced warping and shuddering of the new disc.
I noticed you commented on some drag with the new disc by rectifying the above this may well greatly improve those symptoms.
Hope this is helpful
Also with retracting the pistons in the calipers I'm sure you remembered to take the cover of the Brake Master Cylinder as this allows air to escape as you compress them
Nick
Better still, undo the bleed valve so the dirty fluid is discharged to waste instead of sending it back to the master cylinder or worse, into the ABS controller if it has one.
DBA Slotted rotors & Bendix Ultimate pads are a great combo on every Falcon since the EF.
Good to see your rotors came off easily - I did the rotors on my VX a couple of months back and had to buy a 5 ton gear puller to get the rotors to move, they were rusted on that badly. Obviously hadn't been done for a long time.
Ah yes the old brake booster!! I warped a set of rotors, then almost another set 😳. Every oil change I spin the wheels after a drive to make sure it's not binding and happy days 👌
I had to replace my front rotors not long after buying my AU because they warped.
I bought DBA slotted and cross drilled rotors for all four wheels which also improved the vehicles braking ability
Bendix ultimates or advance are the better upgrade on the big rigs. love the channel
Wouldn't hurt to do a decent video on adjusting the booster. There are a few and they ain't great was going to do this myself but I'm not really in the making video game. So much of the issues with warping is blamed on the bad brakes but this is actually the root cause. Never had an issue on my Turbo since setting it up correctly 2 years and 60 thou kms ago.
I recently did the front pads on my KE Laser and found the sliding pins seized and they are not as easy to work on as the Falcon's. I had to resort to reattaching the caliper and using a hammer to get one to move so I could take it out to lube it up.
I actually watched a Polish video without translation available as it was the only one I could find on unbinding the pins on the BF Mazda Familia/323 /KE Laser 1986 -1990 models. Watching how he lubed these peculiar pins turned out a great help as well as consulting two different workshop manuals!!
If you ever do it again use the Bandix blue ceramic based brake calliper lube.
hey mate just a tip with the brake grease, put a little on the outer tabs of the brake pad to help it slide in & out
Cheers!
Did this and yes the front pistons on the calipers were making the brakes stick on ,rather than rebuild the calipers I put new on ,so if your changing rotors and pads , definitely rebuild the calipers so that they open and close properly
I have learnt to pump my brake pedal (to compress the caliper over the pads) before tightening the slide pin bolts. Failing to do so can warp new rotors cause the slide pins might not adjust in parallel on the first compression. I learnt the hard way :(
I've replaced one caliper on mine and replaced all the rotors still have to replace the other 3 but the car hasn't had any issues since I replaced the caliper so just been waiting to get the $$.
Lovely video mate, insightful as all get out :) Hope she rides smooth/er for you now :)
Absolutely beautiful now mate.
I hope you cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner to get off the oil off them first :)
Some manufacturers say not to, but it's a good practice. I used a hand towel and acetone and a fair amount of black stuff came off a brand new out of the bag rotor.
I noticed you have sensors on your new pads. Had a ve commodore and they have inner and outer pads. They have to be the correct type. Just a thought. Great vid sean.
Nice Job Sean but as others have commented, you did miss a few pieces to make up the video. I would have gone for front DBA slotted and cross drilled rotors for better braking performance.
A good video for someone who's on a budget who wants to take on the job themselves.
Cross drilled rotors crack. They also reduce the surface area of the brake pads, thus reducing the rotor's ability to do its job as a heat sink. Why do you think supercars and other serious race cars only use slotted rotors?
@@doug-core8850 The only similarity with a super car to a normal car is body panels. I've used slotted and cross drilled rotors for years and I swear by them for better braking under normal driving conditions. A few metres of better stopping distance can mean the difference of a major accident or saving lives. We dont drive supercars on the street.
Awesome vid bro. Quick question, have you considered going with upgraded/braided brake lines? They sell them in sets of four on eBay and apparently they're one of the best things you can do with an AU. Especially a series 1. The brakes on them are bit of a joke standard.
I haven't really got any issues with the brake performance - they do the job! Just the slight shudder that was developing.
@@MotoringBoxTV Fair enough. Being a series 2 it would be a better performance out of the braking system than my 1999 series 1. At least it stops, let's put it that way. 😂
Lines alone dont effect braking performance. They're only ment to replace rubber lines that would be subjected to alot of heat. Rubber expands with heat and actually decreases line pressure under load when the lines are hot.
But you're probably never going to get your fluid hot enough to melt the lines or feel the changes in the peddle on the street.
Perhaps also the brake shims weren't allowing the pad to slide properly? from what I could see they were bone dry along with the pad ears.
My God! I did my front brakes Ford Fairmont Ghia AU 1 this week! With Bendix and Repco Rotors $195.00 total, which I thought was pretty cheap……………..
Job done well.a d you really dont need to have the caliper sent away just a little compressed air in the line when removed will pop rhose pistons out and then some very very fine emery cloth to clean rhem and there cups up then reinstall taking care not to damage the o rings..and good to go...john...Willaura..😎
Awesome I just did the rear rotors brakes and wheel bearings on my 4wd, lots of fun, I do not recommend doing this again........Maybe the front will be easier? 🤣
I haven't gotten to the end yet but I don't think you told us to remember to release the handbrake before trying to remove the rear rotor? That's definitely important to know. And in some cars is required before removing the caliper... But, besides that and cleaning up the hub before fitting the new rotor (it can sometimes be a source of vibration or noise, less of an issue here in Aus but in rusty countries it's important) I can't fault the first 8.5 mins :-) now to finish it off
My other little top tip with changing brakes is keep an eye on the fluid level - if it's been topped up at any point in the life of the current brakes, when you push the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads, the reservoir could well overflow. I know because it's happened to me. That was a fun mess to clean up. But, good video mate and +1 for making the adjustment video, that's one thing I haven't done before.
Handbrake shoes should be adjusted before any cables to save stretching cables.
I like to use the old pad to clamp the pistons back in.
I did all my brand new rotors and pads for wof myself. I had a bitch of a time doing them the first problem was adjusting the handbrake in the hole of the rotor with a small flathead breaking my neck trying to do it. Tap it too much it's too tight tap it other way it's to loose🤦. And then I just saw you say You can adjust it where the handbrake boot is lol. 2nd problem I put one of my break pads on the other way went to bed them in and it was just making horrible squeaking thinking it's just the bedding process but I knew I stuffed up somewhere. So went back home jacked up car and behold pads on wrong way and another hour of adjusting hand break 🤦😆.
Hey man, it's possible to free up a sticking caliper by repeatedly pushing the piston in with a G clamp and then using the brake pedal to extend it again a few times. Did it with my old BMW with 4 pot calipers which were sticking really badly due to car sitting for years. Thanks for all the videos
I did that previously and it helped, but the issue came back again sadly. Has been perfect ever since I fitted the new ones!
On a side note, If you have a shudder in your brake pedal it probably the rear rotors, if you have a shudder in your steering wheel its probably the front rotors 👍
It was through the wheel a bit - pretty sure it was the fronts. Either way it's gone now hahah
any videos on the hand brake pad replacement
shoes
It's funny iv been watching this video recently done my rotors and brake pads on my s2 fairlane vct and the same thing is happening on the same side definitely just going to go with new calipers haha. 😅
Well worth it mate.
Next episode is fixing the curb rash on those rear wheels lol.
DBA Street performance pads would be a much better pad than bendix CT, almost zero dust, waynless wear, and an upgraded friction material that can handle more heat if required.
To get this done on just the front end caliper rebuild new rotors pads fluid. It's about 1008.00 as my caliper is seized and so the mechanic wants to replace both even though one side already has a brand new caliper done :/ anyway once it's done my au3 should be good as gold
I usually put a flat piece of metal to go between the piston and the clamp to avoid damage to the piston face…………😳
Mr hubbut are you watching this from wales.
You mean Hub Nut
Sweet video i Throgth u said u got Tickfords rims there giha rims ones in video
They're not on the car!
@@MotoringBoxTV are they star shape ones or 5 spoke ones i got set them
Or if you mean the wheel pickup video.. that was another set of wheels. It looks like I'm stockpiling them haha
@@brockmacckie9905 they are the thick 5-spoke ones, AU2 XR.
@@MotoringBoxTV awsome
Where is the Temperature sender unit? Its not on coolant tank.
No idea. All I know is some AU's don't have one there.
Brake booster video please.
Hey mate, I had a similar problem on my AU Falcon just a few months back. One of my front callipers seized and started dragging. I needed to get it fixed because the brakes were burning. Pads and discs were new so that wasn't the problem. Turns out the calliper pistons were stuck due to poor maintenance from the previous owner. It only cost me about $250 at my local garage to have the front callipers overhauled. You can get an overhaul kit from Repco for cheaper but I wasn't confident in doing that myself. Keep an eye on them because due to it's age the callipers may be on their way out. I think HubNut had a similar problem too!
ruclips.net/video/2RygIA9H64Y/видео.html
I replaced the pads
But now the new pads rubbing on the old disc like a grinding noise
So gonna get new disc
This probably doesn’t make any sense but u probably under stand the issue
I'm currently at college doing mechanics, my tutor says you don't have to as new cars coming off the assembly line don't have any, in some cases it can be detrimental as some pad designs don't have clips instead relying on a double sided tape style adhesive which of course wouldn't work with the grease at all, anyway
Put b series ones on
Interesting video.
I just replaced my FGs master cylinder and booster. Can't find new parts anywhere at the moment (and for some time apparently). I was forced to install parts from a wreck. Not ideal. Hopefully these parts come back online soon. Then I will replace them again.
Was that from ford or aftermarket?
Never sell your mighty au
U gotta wear The pads in a bit too drive with the breaks on
Anyone else hear a sneaky skid at the end of the video ahaha
I save money by not having brake calipers on the rear at all on my falcon. but this Is for track/pad use only.
What car does your misses drive
Secret. You wouldn't like it.
@@MotoringBoxTV Nissan Micra
@@MotoringBoxTV I reckon a Holden astra
First
coolant looks better!
Dont need your rotors overhauled, maybe your calipers....
Just source a secondhand caliper.
hand brake "shoes", not pads
The plastic pistons inside your calipers needs to be replaced,i had the plastic ones removed and replaced with steel ones.