Future of Mower Blades? Ballard Blades vs others! Initial Impressions.
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- @BriansLawnMaintenance
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Hey, so I am a grounds keeper for a school district in Michigan for 3 years . we have similar soil to you. We will run a set of blades 2 weeks, then get another set, and sharpen the set just taken off. We have 4 sets we use year-round per mower. The reason for not making it razor-sharp is because the blade is spinning so fast if you hit something it can take a big piece out if the blade makes it useless.
Extra sharp edge starts to roll down and chip after just a few minutes of cutting where a butterknife sharp edge holds longer and is easier to maintain over time
I had a set of blades like that on my previous mower and they were great.
The angular momentum of the blade probably does a lot of the cutting, so it makes sense that they don’t have to be razor sharp.
Would love to see how those Ballard blades perform. I live in San Antonio area and know how the sand eats up the blades very quickly. I replace mine pretty much yearly but am interested if these will last longer.
I'm going to say this, even on Brian's chanel, he has stated in the past more sand use lower lift blades. Many YT channels in Florida state the same. Use lower lift blades in sandy conditions. Seeing the progression of your property since you got it i would say go with low lift cause they are going to cut grass at the height you set them at. Since you have the tractor another thing you could do is to use a drag to help smooth out the gofer holes, or float either forward or back drag the bucket over the mounds a day or two before mowing. Time allowing of course. I'd probably seed 1 time a year for 5 years to thicken the lawn up like crazy. Some thoughts. Take care
I have a Massey Ferguson GC1720TLB tractor with a 60-inch mid mount mower deck that I use to cut my yard. I have tried various manufacturers of blades. However, I have found that the best cutting blades have been from Massey Ferguson. The blades are not razor sharp, but they are sharp to the touch. They are a thicker blade and have about the same blade angle as the gold colored ones you showed in your video. I think you will like the gold ones yge best.
Glad to see the package arrived A-O-K! Great unboxing on those brother, hope you like!
high-lift blades are primarily for bagging.
Sharpness of the blade depends on what you're cutting. If it's a well-maintained lawn without trash and good soil, go sharp (slice paper easy, but not shave with it) with the 30 degree cutting angle. If you're cutting a prairie, stick with the 45 degree edge that is sharp enough to be uncomfortable.
Do they make them for Ventrac mowing decks?
Have you thought about not using high-lift blades? I would think the high-lifts pull up more sand in the cutting deck.
True but aren't they supposed to cut grass better?
I'm thinking that I agree with the idea of a flatter blade in those conditions. Here's why: I am running a JD 855 with a 72" deck, and stock JD blades. These blades look almost like Brush Hog blades, almost dead flat, just a mild lip. And they are nearly 3/8" thick. So they provide no mulching ability, BUT, the edge last forever. If nobody hits any rocks, can Easily run 60-80 hrs without sharpening.
Those ballard blades are the best but the cost is a ton higher
Just out of curiosity why don't you try the John Kavli blades. I know your friend Brian is extremely reluctant even to talk about them because I think he knows they are the best mowing blade on the market.
From what I have learned over the years and my past experiences, is that you want your blades to be about “butter knife” sharp. I use a sanding flap disc on my angle grinder so I don’t remove too much material at a time and use the butter knife sharp as a general rule of thumb. You should be good to go.
Should have a 30 degree angle
U do not want a super sharp blade
Depends on what type of grass/cut you're looking for. Rotory mowers don't need to be super sharp because of height/type of grass. Reel mowers cut much finer/way shorter grass. We always shapen the blades to a very sharp edge.
I mow in very sandy soil too and have found the Gravely Laseredge blades to be very good.
Heavier rotational mass is more strain on the system to start. Hard blades transmit a solid hit to the spindles. My biggest issue with most blades is they wear out on the ends becoming shorter and leaving an uncut area between the blades. A three blade system would last longer if the over lap of the blades were more than they are, at least on my mower.
I go razor sharp every 8-10 hours on OEMs, On my timemaster Oregon blades they hold a better edge than the oem. I just went to Ballard Golds and after 10 hours of scalping dirt (bermuda lawn resets) they still have an ok edge. I did put back on the razor edge so the fescue lawn route could get a sleek cut.
Ballard hold an edge great. Oregon not bad, oem trash. I go with RAZOR sharp because i run < 20hp engines for lightness and don't want the engine to be anymore over worked than it has to and razors just slice everything.
Think the golds are dual metal so as the softer tip metal wears, sharper metal is behind it. Kind of "self-sharpening" also, razor sharp edge is a no go. There is a proper angle and I think actually 1/64 edge is what is wanted. No go a point. Lastly, there are blades designed for sandy soil.
I haven't tried those particular ballard blades. I'm currently running their regular "razor" blades or whatever they're called on my ferris isx800. I haven't looked at them to see how they're holding up but cut quality is good. I wouldn't say its noticeably better than the original blades. They have survived a couple rough rock hits. I tried running their x blade setup with the mulcher and razor but my mower didn't like it. Starting the deck was rough on it from the extra weight and the mower would bog down in situations it never bogged down in before. Also even with brand new blades the cut quality was crap. It was too much air flow or something and really showed up in the cut leaving rows where the blades over lap. None of this is necessarily ballards fault or bad design or anything. Some have had good luck with the x blade setup with different mowers just mine didn't like it.
Think of a butcher cleaver vs a chef knife. The edge on the cleaver is much more blunt to take abuse where the chef knife is precision and will chip, crack or break much easier because the steel has been honed down super thin.
I have a John Deer mower, which requires blades sold by John Deer with a star pattern hole. So I can’t use any other blades.
Them gold blades are overrated