Thank you for this! Not many others talk about their blade setups on RUclips. I'm going to have to try your favorite blade combo. We've got crazy growth here in Ohio too.
The best info on youtube about this subject. Addressing the very points I've been wanting to know. Cutting fast growing Spring and early Summer grass, whether bagging or side discharge, can be a real hassle. Plugged chutes or clumps of clippings all over the lawn. This may be the answer for my business to try in order to alleviate or reduce those problems on many of my lawns. Thanks for the info.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Very good video! I did want to just pause it to say. Not buying something from someone because you dislike them or because you don't want to support them is a very good reason not to buy something from somewhere. Many things that exist and we complain about are there because people kept buying a thing from someone they probably shouldn't have.
I weld the 4 corners of the X.. just the corners. Mine is just a 42", only 4 blades, not 6. Welding keeps the two blades closer together. A little rough on the Clutch and belt when starting, but no failures yet. Big Fan of the X blades, huge improvment in leaf suction. Mine has been heavily modified for Super Vac suction. 4 high lifts and the trailer hitch chrome is coming off.
Randy's new motto (I can fix a lot of things, stupidity is not one of them) This is great information for the people that want to run X blades. Great video!!! BTW Keep the classic intro.
Great job showing and telling, never used x blades I’ll try it sometime. Well thanks for showing telling have a good one see ya on the next video see ya bye.
After this video I just ordered the kit and new blades. I know you say not to use the gator blades, but with what you and a few other videos I have seen say it seems to be what I am looking for. I don't mow for a living just my yard. I got some chemicals from my work last year. one of the things my work makes is all that stuff. But I put it on my yard last year and now the grass grows like weeds the whole yard so it clogs and spits out big piles and I'm sick of it with my rider. So I'm getting them to try and save me time while mowing. So if it shoots out as pretty much saw dust and doesn't clump and clog I will be super happy. But if it acts up I will try the combo of blades you suggest.
I can relate to the S__T talk. I hear it all the time about going from conventional oil to synthetic (AMSOIL), and I even triple the time between oil changes. There are guys out there that wouldn't dare switch, but I have a 4Runner with almost 300K on it and have been running the AMSOIL since 2008 and changing the oil at 15K instead of 5K, it's a 2007. Glad I came across this, never have ran the X Blade setup, but I will now!! Thanks!! One more thing, that 4Runner, still runs like a new one!
Been tinkering with dual blade setups I made and bought since the 70's on riders,zero turn and even push mowers and often drilled them for 2- 1/4" bolts to hold in place.Never really found a combo that really made a difference. I now have a Scag Cheetah 61"deck with mulch kit that is the best I've seen on leaves as long as they are dry here in PA but is worthless if the least bit wet even with the side discharge open.
Oddly enough i have a 22 bad boy maverick hd efi honda and the dealer said the opposite never engage the blades from full throttle it's set up to do so i would engage half throttle and it would engage pretty rough so i addressed it and they ask was i using part throttle or less they said no that's hard on it lol im tempted to run x blades but unsure still but appreciate the detailed info it helped
thank you so much. I learnt so much. I ran my x blades this past weekend and o man beautiful! I also think sharp blades are another factor that is very important. Im going to save up and buy the Rbg 712.
Thanks for that great tutorial on x blades I’ve been a Walker man for the last 13 years and haven’t even run versa blades which I need to but now I have the Scag v ride 2 and now I see the benefit of running those!! Thanks again oh and nice cameo appearance by Billy 🤣🤣😎
Have you ever experimented with the Meg-Mo or Cutlass bush hog type of blade? Their style of blade is pretty similar to the x-blade setup and they claim substantially improved mulching performance with their system.
When I clicked I never knew people were stacking blades and was thinking the blades are at different height so I am not understanding how you will get a better cut. But the point is not about the cut it is about getting a better broadcast on discharge. Now I get it.
I use x blades on my 61 inch bobcat I use too sets of gator blades works for me I blow down side walks and drive ways with them it mulches anything that gets under the machine I love them mine are from Ballard love them
I mowed with Dixie Chopper mowers from 1994 to 2016. I used x-blades quite often. DC had a manual blade clutch then which allowed blade engagement at low RPM. I run Hustler & Wright now and seldom use the x-blades.
Welding also changes the molecular composition of the metal and it can fracture at the weld with high centrifugal force. If the blades are not balanced it can be a higher risk.Use the adapter and be safer.
Bit like when you over heat a set of blades in the sharpening process ,the bit that goes blue or gets the hottest will wear out the quickest or chip out.heat is not good for blades .
Just put a set on my 36 Wright. Going to have to switch to 2 medium lift blades. Right now I have a medium and a gator. Have to say the moment I had 4 blades instead of 2 I was blow away by the cut quality improvement. Very please with x blades so far
WOW a wealth of information here. I'm just now hearing of this X blade thing. I have an older Yazoo/Kees 48 inch deck and want to run X blades. Where can I get the different types of blades you mentioned. I'm in Apex,NC near Raleigh.and I'm fixin to start mowing grass yea I'm runnin a little behind on my mowing so my grass is longer than what you mentioned. I normally get my blades from a regional company called Agri Supply. I was going to get the Gator blades but you mentioned you didn't think it made a difference. Anyway I hope you read this and let me know where you get your blades THANKS!!
The advantage of not using the bracket is that if you hit something, the blade gives, and you save your mower. The brackets do give some desirable vertical displacement of the blades. The welding is so close to the center of rotation that it does not impact much, but it still completely removes your ability to sharpen your blades on a real sharpener.
Thank you for the video it was extremely informative to me I have a Toro 34 in zero-g mower that I just bought last year I put the mulching kit on it because I like to chop everything up into a fine powder and return it to the soil I live in Florida so the grass I cut St Augustine a much thicker hearty or grass then the Kentucky Bluegrass and fine Fescue that you have up where you are my question is my mower is a two blade mower are the x-blade as effective on my type of mower as they would be on one of your commercial mowers I just mow my own yard I'm not in the business thank you again for all the information
hello all. yall. i bought a bad boy with a 54 inch deck back in 2014 new. i never liked the cut it gives. allways going over to get a clean look. i just installed the x blade set up from ballards and its like i bought a new mower.im not bull shitting. i cut my acreage in half the time and it looks good too. the hassel of going over it looks to be gone. only used once, but i have more to mow out back around the pond. im impressed, to put it mildly. 115.00 for the set i would buy again. was not paid to review....
With the Ballard dual blade adaptors I added high lifts on the lower and mulch blades on the upper later last summer on a 52” deck on my Toro 522xi garden tractor. A cold engine is NOT going to get 6 blades spinning without dying. A local mower mechanic about 5 years without asking me bypassed all of the safety switches. So what I do is release the tensioner lever on the tractor mule drive, turn on the PTO, get off again and close the tensioner lever on the mule drive slowly and get on and mow. Once the engine is warmed up I can just restart the deck with the PTO. The deck blades are 18” long with 1/2” center bolts. The Ballard dual blade adaptors have a 5/8” hole. The spindle bolts is what centers the blades. Two weeks ago I hit the mushroom top of a water utility pipe and the lower blade on the left spindle spun about 30 degrees and bent. I removed the lower blade and put just one blade back on that left spindle and now it’s easier to start the deck. I have a few videos on them on my channel. I mow a rural lawn twice a month and the grass gets really tall in the spring.
One thing iv noticed here in Wisconsin is that I found was that it was pulling up grass grass clippings from the week before and And throw back on top. I used medium lift with gator on top. Also noticed it pick up stones and throw them using the mower to blow off.
They aren't kidding when they say "not for residential machines". I tried them on a raptor SD 42". The extra weight and tendency for one side to scalp as the bottom blade will be lower caused the spindle bearings to wear out. The difference in cut quality wasn't enough to warrant the added wear and tear. A set of good high lift blades work just about as well. But, your mower and the grass you're cutting will make the difference. I cut thick grass, sandy yards, weedy yards, healthy yards...Basically every type of grass/yard. If your business works yards that are mostly the same type of grass or quality, then a certain blade setup will work better. If your customers have every kind of yard under the sun, then no one setup will be the best.
Great information! I don't have a commercial zt, I have a 54 inch Toro my ride timecutter, 24 hp Toro motor, do you think this equipment would handle x blade setup? I'm in west central Fl. and the sand will blast and cut right through the lift blades, cutting bahia grass, sharpening 2 possibly 3 times and replacement needed. Usually using gator blades be cause the lift blades last a bit longer. I know it isn't your area but your feed back would be great, I'm open to other`s experiences in my area.Thanks for the review and sharing your experience
Yep you guys go through blades like crazy down there my uncle owns a lawn care business he's had for over 40 years in Clearwater Florida. I'm not sure because I don't know who makes that engine on Toro I know Toro does not make their own engines they just put their stickers on them but it really doesn't have that much to do with the engine it's more of that type of spindles you have of whether they can handle the abuse like that. I can't say for sure but knowing me I would try it anyway just to find out the important thing with running explains is that you always engage at half throttle
@@CountrysideStrong Thanks for the reply, yep Tampa area, reply blast the blades, The Toro I have has the fab deck with sealed bearings, heavy home owner, or light commercial mower. My first zt, 54 inch cut. Replaced 42 inch 13 year craftsman lawn tractor lol, still smokes and runs, 1/3 the time for 2 acre property. Blades are definitely an issue no matter the mower down here. Thanks again for the review, and response. I will experiment with the x blade setup...I didn't know about such a setup, but now that I do, lol
I bought a set of x blade adapters last year, ran them on my hustler x-one on 2 yards, accidentally hit a couple tree roots that were sticking up too high and ended up bending 2 of the blades and sheared the side tabs that hold the blade in place off of the adapters.
i run the gator blades on my jd s130,and i think the xblades it will just cut the grass more and cut the clippings down is all i think the gator blades already cut the grass up finer with a mulching cover,but good idea for less clippings,thanks
Last year I had bought a yard machine zero turn mower 42 in cut deck. And I've been thinking about doing a x blade setup on it. The high lift n low lift I'd like to do. But I do have one question about it. How well would a yard machine zero turn mower be with x blades before I even invest within doing so.
Very informational video, I have a toro 5030 zero turn I have a lot of grass build up under my belt guards Do nu think that I should take them off or what?
Late to the party here, Long ago, I was given an old Heckinger (?spelling?) 20 inch push mower that didn't have a normal blade, but a disc with 4 cutters attached onto angled sections (for lift) and LOVED the way that thing cut. Ever since, I have wanted to try doing this on a larger machine. I never dared to try due to the fear of the blades shifting, or damaging other deck driveline components (clutch, belts spindles) But my fear of that has been put to bed. Now I have a new Husqvarna 54 inch ZTR, with a 23 or 24 HP Kawasaki V-twin with less than 30 hours on the clock. Would you recommend attempting a X-blade setup with that? Also I have an older, 50 inch, 17 hp, Gravely Pro-50 walk-behind. I want to try it on that, but that has a 2-belt system. The main 5/8 belt comes from the clutch and runs the center and inner (non discharge side) blade. A secondary 1/2 belt runs from the center spindle to the outer blade. Weird. That worries me. I think the pulley on the outer spindle has been changed to the 1/2 width, as the info I have seen says it's supposed to be another 5/8 belt. Once I sort that out, how about X-blades on that? I just don't want to f--k anything up, or myself, or others. On a side note: What monster engages the deck at full throttle? That's like revving up a stationary truck to 6 grand, and dumping the clutch. YIKES! I get to between 1/3 and half throttle before pulling the button, then slowly throttle up. Hell, I even slowly throttle down to at least half before disengaging the deck..
They definitely have a time and place, not something I'd run all year round though. My one issue when I did run them was the vibration, I thought I was balancing my blades well enough.. pretty sure I need to up my game there by the sounds hah
I run Hi lift and Gators atop. Benefits really show when blasting leaves or post dethatch. Was hoping this would slow any blade wear and tear. They wear just as fast as only one blade. Overall, I have found that running 'X-Blades' and finding that sweet spot on the RPMs delivers a superior cut to just one blade and WOT. Great video!! Stay safe.
Do you think a cheap residential grade riding mower could handle x blades? I have a 17.5hp 42 inch MTD POS. I’m wondering if it has enough power to run them, or if the spindles, belt, and deck would hold up the the additional stress?
Like I said in the video it's not for everybody but in extreme conditions it helps out a lot if you run them you'll see what I'm talking about it mulches stuff up way smaller and shoot stuff out way further so it makes it easier if you're not bagging
Great video. Recently purchased bagger for my Scag TT2 and not impressed with results. Thinking about trying x blades. What combination do you suggest running with the bagger for maximum pickup?
I work for stupid is and stupid does at an HOA in western rural Washington and they had me wait till the end of April to start mowing so now I'm mowing five to six foot tall grass in a lot of places. I was wondering if this setup would be good for roadside banks and for the tall grass and what would be the least amount of horse power that should be used. I have two kubota zero turns, 48 and a 54 with Kohler engines and 22.5 and 23.5 horses. Anyway, this is what I've been wondering about this season so many thanks my friend.
Have any experience or recommend setup for new scag 30 “ push mower don’t like the cut with the original blades cut st Augustine and left a lot of stragglers and uneven torn grass. This was first use.
Good morning,CountrySide Strong have a question? I got a Great Dane Stand up 52’and walk behind Bunton 36’ and a 61’ Zero Bunton which blades would be great for all these mower running the X Blades style?
So on our 36 inch walk behinds we ran all sorts of blades. Best one we've found is the Snapper ninja blade. It's essentially a factory x style blade. We run them on every walk behind we run and have neve had an issue with them. You may want to look at them just to try.
Great video. I have had the hardest time on Toro’s website trying to figure out which one is short tail and long tail for my 40” grandstand. These 14” blades are a hassle to find.
You probably had other issues along the way or a very old clutch but I've been doing this over 23 years and probably 30 different mowers without an issue
Have you ever gone back after a few days to check the cut of the straw? For me this is an eye opening moment. I discovered that even with a new blade sharp as can be the straw was torn and flossed not "cut". I had a lot of trouble keeping the blades sharp since the area would take about 1-2 days to mow and after 2-3 weeks the blades were rounded and in dismay. I spend a lot of time and money on blades so my boss was not very happy. Thinking to my self.....hummm experiment! I took a triplet of old "worn out" blades, no outer corner and completely trashed for this experiment. Doing a "sharpening" with a remaining edge about 1-2 mm but straight. To my surprise they cut better than new and lasted twice as long. Now you know my little secret. This is with a triple rotor mulching deck where a stone smashes all rotors ,-)
@@CountrysideStrong Yes because you use a side discharging deck..! Very different with a true mulching deck. I had to work in an area with 8 rows of apartment blocks and a lot of trees, playgrounds and glass every where etc. nearly impossible to use a side deck. I did have the option for a small exit out the back but never used it because it left thick stripes.
Have you ever ran a offset blade on the top? So that both cutting edges are at the same exact height? Only reason I ask is because my bobcat walk behind uses 1/2" offset blades and most mowers run a flat blade. Between the thickness of that x-adapter and the thickness of the bottom blade, you can get a 1/2" offset blade on top and have both cutting edges at the same exact height. It worked freaking amazing on my Bobcat. Only problem was its a 15 horse kawi and a 52" cut. Not much power to spin all that metal.
Hi great information. What x blades do you run on your Walker? I have a 48 inch Walker 26 hp 9 bushel mower. It has the high speed pulley for drive. Do you have to get a longer bolt? Do the blades come with a timming hole cut into them. Do they have small holes for the center cone cover. Thanks for your help. Ernest Pribula
I just brought a Ex-mark Radius S 60". It doesn't have the lift or discharge that my old Lazer-X 52" commercial deck mower had. The blades on my new mower have the hexagon spindle, 20-1/2" long x 2-1/2" wide with a 15/16" center hole. I need help on deciding what to do Countryside. I would really like cut up all the leaves I in the fall but still keep lawn striped. Please help me decide what blades run. Gators, Super Hi-lift, regular lift, X-Blades and/or Combination of all.
High lifts will give you the best stripe and stripe is 90% what height you cut at. The higher the better. You're gonna have to give and take. You're not gonna get both as good as you want
Can I ask what brand high lift you’re using. I struggling finding 18”. 5/8 hole .203 thick. And what is the lift 1.25” or bigger. Standard is 1”. Thanks love the video
I've noticed mulching blades can tend to be loud. Does using these x blade adapters make the mower significantly louder since it's 2x the blades (all things equal)?
I would love some advice. I need to replace the blades on my scag 52" soon (i've sharpened them to oblivion). I usually sharpen on a bench grinder and don't really have a good means to balance my blades. I mow about 3 acres weekly and some times some relatively long long or thick grass on my back lot. Do you have a suggestion for a blade setup?
@@CountrysideStrong Thank you! Do you know if those are offered through Scag, or would there be another manufacturer that you would recommend? The factory blades have done very well, would like equal or better quality.
No you can only buy them aftermarket and I'm pretty sure they're made by Oregon you have to do a search for them on eBay if you look I have videos on them and it shows exactly what they look like so you don't make a mistake of getting the wrong ones
I use x-blades on my Wright Standers religiously almost year round. I half-throttle to engage, then throttle up to full power. You mentioned this, but l didn't hear you say that you half-throttle before disengaging the PTO. Do you half-throttle before turning off your PTO.
No it doesn't have any affect on it. The point of half throttle is to avoid the sudden jerk on the belt. When you disengage, you're taking the tension away from the belt so there's no point
I have a 23hp kawasaki engine 52" zero turn. I'm going to try this xblade setup at some point. Just to clarify, when you say it's not recommended to run at full throttle, what are you looking for to know it's at the right speed. Are you listening for engine noise, vibration, or what? Great video, thanks for posting.
5:05 this crazy rant about balance balance balance weight. 5:50 proceeds to wire wheel material off the balanced adapter. Didnt check to see if it is balanced now
There is no balance adapter. It's literally a spacer and that's it 🤦, I literally took built up grass off the blade because it'll never balance correctly with built up grass and mud. Think before you comment.
Everyone has their own opinion he just got into ox blades a year ago I've been doing it for 20 years. Korey's a smart guy and he knows his stuff I'm not disregarding him and maybe he has to say that for insurance reasons but I've never had an issue doing it this way.
I hear what you are saying about the spindles, and greasing them, but the only mower I know that uses roller bearings is Skag. I have grease fittings on my mower, but it as sealed bearings. What's the point of wasting grease?
If it has grease fittings and you don't grease them you're going to find out what the point is eventually. A lot of manufacturers now are going to greaseless mowers and I'm just not a fan I would rather grease them and know it's in there
Countryside I agree with what you are saying. However my point was that you can't grease a sealed bearing through a Zert fitting the grease falls into the chamber, and lays there until it melts on top of the bottom sealed bearing. I squirt grease in mine in hopes that it may cool the bearing a bit.
Won’t be using them again, used for about a year and had to replace all my spindles on my Graverly 60. Loved the cut and discharge but the cost benefit doesn’t work for me
@@CountrysideStrong Not a bigger issue just didn’t see value in replacing spindles once a year just to run 6 blades when the graverly cuts well without it.
@@CountrysideStrong not saying it’s not possible but from all my research and even working with gravely it all pointed to to the blades being the source fortunately for me after covering the cost on the front end graverly did reimbursed me out of what they a good faith program but I but that’s bc the mower was only 14 months old
What type of machines do you think would be compatible, the site I'd seen probably over a year ago said not to be used on "residential tractors", would you agree with that or do you think it'd be fine? I'd tried it (without the adapters) on my resi tractor (46" ariens) with a gator and a dethatch blade and wasnt to impressed, then again maybe I'm just not use to the dethatching blades (purpose of the gators were more for lift and throw of the dethatch).
Do you run these spring to fall? Im hoping not to bag at all this year up in the N.W. Wondering what discharge looks like in the spring when the grass is thick tall and wet?
Will running super hi lift blades in wet grass make my deck clog more or less?? Running a 60” Lazer Z and a 52” Staris. Trying to decide to get more exmark blades from the dealer or order ballards new super hi lift blade. Looking forward to your response. Thank you
@@CountrysideStrong, thanks for getting back so soon, 1st time using the x blade adapters from Ballard's, and took your suggestions on short tail on bottom with factory toro blades on top on my 36 grandstand night and day it stripes alot better and no clumping better than the extra high lifts I had on. but it does uses more fuel, but again with only single blades going to make 2 or 3 passes for clean up anyway. going to try the x blades adapters on the z master with the bagging system. I'm hoping with the vac belt and the cross blades will not cause any issues. fingers crossed 🤞
thank you for this review. actually i am looking to change blades for my New Husqvarna z560X (its arriving tomorrow). which blades would you reccomend from Ballard? also which blade grinder would you advice to get? (PS. i Leave in Greece - Europe). thanks in advance for all your replies...💪
I have a Dixie chopper 2250 magnum. It has never discharged grass worth a flip. With that said I’m not mowing perfect yard I have weeds Bahia and Bermuda grass. Live in the country of east Texas what blade type would you recommend for my type of mowing
Thank you for this! Not many others talk about their blade setups on RUclips. I'm going to have to try your favorite blade combo. We've got crazy growth here in Ohio too.
Yes Ohio is very similar to me
@@CountrysideStrong who manufacture x blade kits?
@@darrelldundee7198 no idea
@@CountrysideStrong okay I just found out who thanks for your help
@@CountrysideStrong Ballard makes them I just checked their website
The best info on youtube about this subject. Addressing the very points I've been wanting to know. Cutting fast growing Spring and early Summer grass, whether bagging or side discharge, can be a real hassle. Plugged chutes or clumps of clippings all over the lawn. This may be the answer for my business to try in order to alleviate or reduce those problems on many of my lawns. Thanks for the info.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Very good video! I did want to just pause it to say. Not buying something from someone because you dislike them or because you don't want to support them is a very good reason not to buy something from somewhere. Many things that exist and we complain about are there because people kept buying a thing from someone they probably shouldn't have.
Dude. You are legit. I tried the blade with the mulching blade and didn't like it. Km gonna try your setup. Thanks for keeping it real.
Thanks buddy. 👍👍
I weld the 4 corners of the X.. just the corners. Mine is just a 42", only 4 blades, not 6. Welding keeps the two blades closer together. A little rough on the Clutch and belt when starting, but no failures yet. Big Fan of the X blades, huge improvment in leaf suction. Mine has been heavily modified for Super Vac suction. 4 high lifts and the trailer hitch chrome is coming off.
Yea it can be tough on parts. Gotta make sure you’re engaging at half throttle
Great info , i'm going to try the x blade set up for this fall. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the information on xblades, tall, wet grass. exactly what I needed to hear. I'll give your advise a try. Thank you.
No problem, good luck
Thanks for sharing your years of experience with this setup. Experience is worth its weight in gold.
Thank you for watching
Randy's new motto (I can fix a lot of things, stupidity is not one of them) This is great information for the people that want to run X blades. Great video!!! BTW Keep the classic intro.
Thanks
Great job showing and telling, never used x blades I’ll try it sometime. Well thanks for showing telling have a good one see ya on the next video see ya bye.
lol you’re welcome
After this video I just ordered the kit and new blades. I know you say not to use the gator blades, but with what you and a few other videos I have seen say it seems to be what I am looking for. I don't mow for a living just my yard. I got some chemicals from my work last year. one of the things my work makes is all that stuff. But I put it on my yard last year and now the grass grows like weeds the whole yard so it clogs and spits out big piles and I'm sick of it with my rider. So I'm getting them to try and save me time while mowing. So if it shoots out as pretty much saw dust and doesn't clump and clog I will be super happy. But if it acts up I will try the combo of blades you suggest.
Right on, brother, I admire a man who tells it like it is. I used to be stationed at Fort Drum, NY, back in the late 80s!
Awesome thanks for your service
I can relate to the S__T talk. I hear it all the time about going from conventional oil to synthetic (AMSOIL), and I even triple the time between oil changes. There are guys out there that wouldn't dare switch, but I have a 4Runner with almost 300K on it and have been running the AMSOIL since 2008 and changing the oil at 15K instead of 5K, it's a 2007. Glad I came across this, never have ran the X Blade setup, but I will now!! Thanks!! One more thing, that 4Runner, still runs like a new one!
Thanks buddy
Been tinkering with dual blade setups I made and bought since the 70's on riders,zero turn and even push mowers and often drilled them for 2- 1/4" bolts to hold in place.Never really found a combo that really made a difference. I now have a Scag Cheetah 61"deck with mulch kit that is the best I've seen on leaves as long as they are dry here in PA but is worthless if the least bit wet even with the side discharge open.
Yes that's where I hate the scag decks. I try to use my walker or Toro when they're wet as much as possible. They both do great
Oddly enough i have a 22 bad boy maverick hd efi honda and the dealer said the opposite never engage the blades from full throttle it's set up to do so i would engage half throttle and it would engage pretty rough so i addressed it and they ask was i using part throttle or less they said no that's hard on it lol im tempted to run x blades but unsure still but appreciate the detailed info it helped
thank you so much. I learnt so much. I ran my x blades this past weekend and o man beautiful! I also think sharp blades are another factor that is very important. Im going to save up and buy the Rbg 712.
Ya that's a given on any machine for sure
Thanks for that great tutorial on x blades I’ve been a Walker man for the last 13 years and haven’t even run versa blades which I need to but now I have the Scag v ride 2 and now I see the benefit of running those!! Thanks again oh and nice cameo appearance by Billy 🤣🤣😎
Lol thanks
Have you ever experimented with the Meg-Mo or Cutlass bush hog type of blade? Their style of blade is pretty similar to the x-blade setup and they claim substantially improved mulching performance with their system.
When I clicked I never knew people were stacking blades and was thinking the blades are at different height so I am not understanding how you will get a better cut. But the point is not about the cut it is about getting a better broadcast on discharge. Now I get it.
Spot on. The cut always does look nicer tho because with double the blades you literally leave no stragglers.
I use x blades on my 61 inch bobcat I use too sets of gator blades works for me I blow down side walks and drive ways with them it mulches anything that gets under the machine I love them mine are from Ballard love them
Awesome, different set ups with for different people. Gotta go with whatever works for you
I mowed with Dixie Chopper mowers from 1994 to 2016. I used x-blades quite often. DC had a manual blade clutch then which allowed blade engagement at low RPM. I run Hustler & Wright now and seldom use the x-blades.
Yea it's not for every situation for sure but they come in handy at times
Thanks for ur quick reply and information
Anytime buddy. Have a great weekend
Welding also changes the molecular composition of the metal and it can fracture at the weld with high centrifugal force. If the blades are not balanced it can be a higher risk.Use the adapter and be safer.
I've been welding over 20 years and I've never sun l seen that happen. Could it, possibly but highly unlikely
Bit like when you over heat a set of blades in the sharpening process ,the bit that goes blue or gets the hottest will wear out the quickest or chip out.heat is not good for blades .
@@troymeredith9528blades are bolted to spindle..if crack they will just wigle it and will be shown with high vibrations
Very informative and well made video. A lot of very good information from someone who knows what they are talking about. TWO THUMBS UP 👍.
Than you I appreciate that. Thanks for watching👍👍
Just put a set on my 36 Wright. Going to have to switch to 2 medium lift blades. Right now I have a medium and a gator. Have to say the moment I had 4 blades instead of 2 I was blow away by the cut quality improvement. Very please with x blades so far
That's awesome. I've had great luck with them over many many years
WOW a wealth of information here. I'm just now hearing of this X blade thing. I have an older Yazoo/Kees 48 inch deck and want to run X blades. Where can I get the different types of blades you mentioned. I'm in Apex,NC near Raleigh.and I'm fixin to start mowing grass yea I'm runnin a little behind on my mowing so my grass is longer than what you mentioned. I normally get my blades from a regional company called Agri Supply. I was going to get the Gator blades but you mentioned you didn't think it made a difference. Anyway I hope you read this and let me know where you get your blades THANKS!!
Thank you and i order all blades from Amazon
The advantage of not using the bracket is that if you hit something, the blade gives, and you save your mower. The brackets do give some desirable vertical displacement of the blades. The welding is so close to the center of rotation that it does not impact much, but it still completely removes your ability to sharpen your blades on a real sharpener.
Thank you for the video it was extremely informative to me I have a Toro 34 in zero-g mower that I just bought last year I put the mulching kit on it because I like to chop everything up into a fine powder and return it to the soil I live in Florida so the grass I cut St Augustine a much thicker hearty or grass then the Kentucky Bluegrass and fine Fescue that you have up where you are my question is my mower is a two blade mower are the x-blade as effective on my type of mower as they would be on one of your commercial mowers I just mow my own yard I'm not in the business thank you again for all the information
I have a toro time cutter 50 and I started running dual blades it's a big difference
hello all. yall. i bought a bad boy with a 54 inch deck back in 2014 new. i never liked the cut it gives. allways going over to get a clean look. i just installed the x blade set up from ballards and its like i bought a new mower.im not bull shitting. i cut my acreage in half the time and it looks good too. the hassel of going over it looks to be gone. only used once, but i have more to mow out back around the pond. im impressed, to put it mildly. 115.00 for the set i would buy again. was not paid to review....
That's awesome👍👍
With the Ballard dual blade adaptors I added high lifts on the lower and mulch blades on the upper later last summer on a 52” deck on my Toro 522xi garden tractor. A cold engine is NOT going to get 6 blades spinning without dying. A local mower mechanic about 5 years without asking me bypassed all of the safety switches. So what I do is release the tensioner lever on the tractor mule drive, turn on the PTO, get off again and close the tensioner lever on the mule drive slowly and get on and mow. Once the engine is warmed up I can just restart the deck with the PTO. The deck blades are 18” long with 1/2” center bolts. The Ballard dual blade adaptors have a 5/8” hole. The spindle bolts is what centers the blades. Two weeks ago I hit the mushroom top of a water utility pipe and the lower blade on the left spindle spun about 30 degrees and bent. I removed the lower blade and put just one blade back on that left spindle and now it’s easier to start the deck. I have a few videos on them on my channel. I mow a rural lawn twice a month and the grass gets really tall in the spring.
Sounds like allot of crap to deal with just to run x blades
Great video.
I agree with you 100%.
Thank you
One thing iv noticed here in Wisconsin is that I found was that it was pulling up grass grass clippings from the week before and And throw back on top. I used medium lift with gator on top. Also noticed it pick up stones and throw them using the mower to blow off.
Ya it blows allot of force for sure. I didn't have that problem with grass tho
Thank you for sharing ! Appreciated 👍
Thanks for watching
They aren't kidding when they say "not for residential machines". I tried them on a raptor SD 42". The extra weight and tendency for one side to scalp as the bottom blade will be lower caused the spindle bearings to wear out. The difference in cut quality wasn't enough to warrant the added wear and tear. A set of good high lift blades work just about as well. But, your mower and the grass you're cutting will make the difference. I cut thick grass, sandy yards, weedy yards, healthy yards...Basically every type of grass/yard. If your business works yards that are mostly the same type of grass or quality, then a certain blade setup will work better. If your customers have every kind of yard under the sun, then no one setup will be the best.
That’s right it varies for every application
You ARE the Blade King!!!
Lol research for all you guys lol
Thank you for the knowledge, new subscriber.
Sweet thank you
Great information! I don't have a commercial zt, I have a 54 inch Toro my ride timecutter, 24 hp Toro motor, do you think this equipment would handle x blade setup? I'm in west central Fl. and the sand will blast and cut right through the lift blades, cutting bahia grass, sharpening 2 possibly 3 times and replacement needed. Usually using gator blades be cause the lift blades last a bit longer. I know it isn't your area but your feed back would be great, I'm open to other`s experiences in my area.Thanks for the review and sharing your experience
Yep you guys go through blades like crazy down there my uncle owns a lawn care business he's had for over 40 years in Clearwater Florida. I'm not sure because I don't know who makes that engine on Toro I know Toro does not make their own engines they just put their stickers on them but it really doesn't have that much to do with the engine it's more of that type of spindles you have of whether they can handle the abuse like that. I can't say for sure but knowing me I would try it anyway just to find out the important thing with running explains is that you always engage at half throttle
@@CountrysideStrong Thanks for the reply, yep Tampa area, reply blast the blades, The Toro I have has the fab deck with sealed bearings, heavy home owner, or light commercial mower. My first zt, 54 inch cut. Replaced 42 inch 13 year craftsman lawn tractor lol, still smokes and runs, 1/3 the time for 2 acre property. Blades are definitely an issue no matter the mower down here. Thanks again for the review, and response. I will experiment with the x blade setup...I didn't know about such a setup, but now that I do, lol
I’ve heard that common sense is so rare nowadays that it’s considered to be a super power.
😂😂 that’s a fact
Thank you Randy...good video and appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thanks
Interesting and informative video,man. Thanks for your time.Subscribed.Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you, we appreciate the support
I bought a set of x blade adapters last year, ran them on my hustler x-one on 2 yards, accidentally hit a couple tree roots that were sticking up too high and ended up bending 2 of the blades and sheared the side tabs that hold the blade in place off of the adapters.
Holy crap. Yea sometimes I forget the blades are down allot further
Good content thank you
i run the gator blades on my jd s130,and i think the xblades it will just cut the grass more and cut the clippings down is all i think the gator blades already cut the grass up finer with a mulching cover,but good idea for less clippings,thanks
Thank you
Last year I had bought a yard machine zero turn mower 42 in cut deck. And I've been thinking about doing a x blade setup on it. The high lift n low lift I'd like to do. But I do have one question about it. How well would a yard machine zero turn mower be with x blades before I even invest within doing so.
I wouldn’t do it on any machine that’s not commercial personally
The y.m zero turn mower I have has a 22hp engine on it tho
Do you have the link for the 2 different blades you use for the top and bottom for X blades? I have a 72inch RT HD spartan
I don’t. I just search Amazon until i find them
💯 % agree. Tried em all. Great video 👍🏼
Thank you
Very informational video, I have a toro 5030 zero turn I have a lot of grass build up under my belt guards
Do nu think that I should take them off or what?
Yeah it happens to every mower we take them off so they're easy to blow off after each lawn
Late to the party here, Long ago, I was given an old Heckinger (?spelling?) 20 inch push mower that didn't have a normal blade, but a disc with 4 cutters attached onto angled sections (for lift) and LOVED the way that thing cut. Ever since, I have wanted to try doing this on a larger machine. I never dared to try due to the fear of the blades shifting, or damaging other deck driveline components (clutch, belts spindles) But my fear of that has been put to bed. Now I have a new Husqvarna 54 inch ZTR, with a 23 or 24 HP Kawasaki V-twin with less than 30 hours on the clock. Would you recommend attempting a X-blade setup with that? Also I have an older, 50 inch, 17 hp, Gravely Pro-50 walk-behind. I want to try it on that, but that has a 2-belt system. The main 5/8 belt comes from the clutch and runs the center and inner (non discharge side) blade. A secondary 1/2 belt runs from the center spindle to the outer blade. Weird. That worries me. I think the pulley on the outer spindle has been changed to the 1/2 width, as the info I have seen says it's supposed to be another 5/8 belt. Once I sort that out, how about X-blades on that? I just don't want to f--k anything up, or myself, or others.
On a side note: What monster engages the deck at full throttle? That's like revving up a stationary truck to 6 grand, and dumping the clutch. YIKES! I get to between 1/3 and half throttle before pulling the button, then slowly throttle up. Hell, I even slowly throttle down to at least half before disengaging the deck..
Some people just don't get it and you can't teach them anything. Those are the full throttle people🤣👍
They definitely have a time and place, not something I'd run all year round though. My one issue when I did run them was the vibration, I thought I was balancing my blades well enough.. pretty sure I need to up my game there by the sounds hah
Yea def not an all the time thing. Yea it's def check that balance again I don't get any vibration
Thanks for the vid. Helpful. Would you run a gator as one of them if you ran a mulcher?
I've tried it, didn't work too well
What about extremely tall grass and weeds scag 32 walk behind mower to belt drive???????
Belt drive is an absolute no in the commercial world
I run Hi lift and Gators atop. Benefits really show when blasting leaves or post dethatch. Was hoping this would slow any blade wear and tear. They wear just as fast as only one blade. Overall, I have found that running 'X-Blades' and finding that sweet spot on the RPMs delivers a superior cut to just one blade and WOT. Great video!! Stay safe.
Thanks buddy and thanks for the feedback👍👍
Do you think a cheap residential grade riding mower could handle x blades? I have a 17.5hp 42 inch MTD POS. I’m wondering if it has enough power to run them, or if the spindles, belt, and deck would hold up the the additional stress?
I wouldn't do it
I have to ask why? I get why to have mulch blades when you don't bag but this makes more work to sharpen and balance.
Like I said in the video it's not for everybody but in extreme conditions it helps out a lot if you run them you'll see what I'm talking about it mulches stuff up way smaller and shoot stuff out way further so it makes it easier if you're not bagging
can you use this set up on a walk behind toro recycler 22 inch
I’m not sure I’ve never tried it. I would say it’s mostly for commercial mowers
Could you please let me know where I can get the brackets for that
Ballard products online
Hey thanks brother
Great video. Recently purchased bagger for my Scag TT2 and not impressed with results. Thinking about trying x blades. What combination do you suggest running with the bagger for maximum pickup?
Exactly the same as i described in the video. It’s the only thing that i found works good enough
If you had to use the combo of regular high lift and a gator blade, which would you put on top and which one on bottom?
Gator on the top def.
Have you ever run the 2 outside blades double but not the middle?
I work for stupid is and stupid does at an HOA in western rural Washington and they had me wait till the end of April to start mowing so now I'm mowing five to six foot tall grass in a lot of places. I was wondering if this setup would be good for roadside banks and for the tall grass and what would be the least amount of horse power that should be used. I have two kubota zero turns, 48 and a 54 with Kohler engines and 22.5 and 23.5 horses. Anyway, this is what I've been wondering about this season so many thanks my friend.
I think it'll work for you. Sounds like you have good enough equipment. It's gonna be a battle no matter what you use in those conditions
I think a flail mower would be better for stuff like that. That is, if you could run one behind a tractor.
Have any experience or recommend setup for new scag 30 “ push mower don’t like the cut with the original blades cut st Augustine and left a lot of stragglers and uneven torn grass. This was first use.
I haven't used one yet. Will Rice would have feedback. Wills mowing on RUclips
Try high lift blades that's what people are running on the Toro and exmark push mowers
Good morning,CountrySide Strong have a question? I got a Great Dane Stand up 52’and walk behind Bunton 36’ and a 61’ Zero Bunton which blades would be great for all these mower running the X Blades style?
I’ve done it with the Great Danes not the others. Worked great
@@CountrysideStrong So which style of blades did you run?
I listed them in the video
@@CountrysideStrong okay is that the vid I just saw are is it a different one? And TY for your feedback
@@DirtySwampEnt should be that one
Thank you for the great information I’m gonna try your set up
You'll love it
Cheers mate ill order them ASAP
So on our 36 inch walk behinds we ran all sorts of blades. Best one we've found is the Snapper ninja blade. It's essentially a factory x style blade. We run them on every walk behind we run and have neve had an issue with them. You may want to look at them just to try.
I've heard of them before
I have a 36" Toro walk behind, where can I find these snapper ninja blades?
Great video. I have had the hardest time on Toro’s website trying to figure out which one is short tail and long tail for my 40” grandstand. These 14” blades are a hassle to find.
Short tail are aftermarket only
We used X blades on big wheel mowers a long time ago .
Heck yea, been doing it for many many years
the extra weight from those blades puts more strain and ware on the PTO clutch when you engage the blades I crossed that bridge already
You probably had other issues along the way or a very old clutch but I've been doing this over 23 years and probably 30 different mowers without an issue
Have you ever gone back after a few days to check the cut of the straw?
For me this is an eye opening moment. I discovered that even with a new blade sharp as can be the straw was torn and flossed not "cut". I had a lot of trouble keeping the blades sharp since the area would take about 1-2 days to mow and after 2-3 weeks the blades were rounded and in dismay. I spend a lot of time and money on blades so my boss was not very happy. Thinking to my self.....hummm experiment! I took a triplet of old "worn out" blades, no outer corner and completely trashed for this experiment. Doing a "sharpening" with a remaining edge about 1-2 mm but straight. To my surprise they cut better than new and lasted twice as long. Now you know my little secret. This is with a triple rotor mulching deck where a stone smashes all rotors ,-)
Never had an issue. Sharpen at a perfect 30° angle and perfect cut everytime
@@CountrysideStrong Yes because you use a side discharging deck..! Very different with a true mulching deck. I had to work in an area with 8 rows of apartment blocks and a lot of trees, playgrounds and glass every where etc. nearly impossible to use a side deck. I did have the option for a small exit out the back but never used it because it left thick stripes.
Ok
Have you ever ran a offset blade on the top? So that both cutting edges are at the same exact height? Only reason I ask is because my bobcat walk behind uses 1/2" offset blades and most mowers run a flat blade. Between the thickness of that x-adapter and the thickness of the bottom blade, you can get a 1/2" offset blade on top and have both cutting edges at the same exact height. It worked freaking amazing on my Bobcat. Only problem was its a 15 horse kawi and a 52" cut. Not much power to spin all that metal.
I haven't. I think them being at different heights is what takes care of stragglers in tall stuff
Hi great information. What x blades do you run on your Walker?
I have a 48 inch Walker 26 hp 9 bushel mower. It has the high speed pulley for drive. Do you have to get a longer bolt? Do the blades come with a timming hole cut into them. Do they have small holes for the center cone cover. Thanks for your help.
Ernest Pribula
Versimow system. They only come one way
@@CountrysideStrong
Thanks. What about longer bolts and timming so blades don't hit each other on the over lap.
@@ernestpribula7949 nope, no need it's designed for it. Look for my video on Versimow it'll tell you everything you need to know
@@CountrysideStrong
Thanks I did. Little expensive at $260.00 plus shipping.
Sure is, wouldn't run my Walker without it
I just brought a Ex-mark Radius S 60". It doesn't have the lift or discharge that my old Lazer-X 52" commercial deck mower had. The blades on my new mower have the hexagon spindle, 20-1/2" long x 2-1/2" wide with a 15/16" center hole. I need help on deciding what to do Countryside. I would really like cut up all the leaves I in the fall but still keep lawn striped. Please help me decide what blades run. Gators, Super Hi-lift, regular lift, X-Blades and/or Combination of all.
High lifts will give you the best stripe and stripe is 90% what height you cut at. The higher the better. You're gonna have to give and take. You're not gonna get both as good as you want
@@CountrysideStrong Thxu for help.
Can I ask what brand high lift you’re using. I struggling finding 18”. 5/8 hole .203 thick. And what is the lift 1.25” or bigger. Standard is 1”. Thanks love the video
I use Oregon, not sure of the details
Try searching for Ferris 36 in srs1 blades they are 18 x 2.5 with 5/8 Hole
Thank you for sharing ! 👍 Great information .......
Thanks
0:21 - Damn, man! You sound like my wife! Ha, ha!
You wish I was🤣🤣🤷
@@CountrysideStrong Great reply! You are hot and all, but not my type.
I've noticed mulching blades can tend to be loud. Does using these x blade adapters make the mower significantly louder since it's 2x the blades (all things equal)?
Sounds like a helicopter
I would love some advice. I need to replace the blades on my scag 52" soon (i've sharpened them to oblivion). I usually sharpen on a bench grinder and don't really have a good means to balance my blades. I mow about 3 acres weekly and some times some relatively long long or thick grass on my back lot. Do you have a suggestion for a blade setup?
I would run high lift short tails but you're always gonna have issues if you don't get those blades to a perfect 30° angle and balanced
@@CountrysideStrong Thank you! Do you know if those are offered through Scag, or would there be another manufacturer that you would recommend? The factory blades have done very well, would like equal or better quality.
No you can only buy them aftermarket and I'm pretty sure they're made by Oregon you have to do a search for them on eBay if you look I have videos on them and it shows exactly what they look like so you don't make a mistake of getting the wrong ones
@@CountrysideStrong Thank you
You made a very helpful video 🙏❤️🙏
Thank you
Good info thanks
Thank you
Great video!! Thank you!!
No problem, thanks for watching
Great Info, never heard of x blades before. What are your thoughts on the Ballard Aluminum bagger ?
I stick with the accelerator. It's the best in my opinion
I use x-blades on my Wright Standers religiously almost year round. I half-throttle to engage, then throttle up to full power. You mentioned this, but l didn't hear you say that you half-throttle before disengaging the PTO. Do you half-throttle before turning off your PTO.
No it doesn't have any affect on it. The point of half throttle is to avoid the sudden jerk on the belt. When you disengage, you're taking the tension away from the belt so there's no point
I have a 52 inch wright zk , what's your xblade setup for your wright?
I have a 23hp kawasaki engine 52" zero turn. I'm going to try this xblade setup at some point. Just to clarify, when you say it's not recommended to run at full throttle, what are you looking for to know it's at the right speed. Are you listening for engine noise, vibration, or what? Great video, thanks for posting.
Don't engage at full, run it at full tho
@@CountrysideStrong gotcha. Thanks.
5:05 this crazy rant about balance balance balance weight. 5:50 proceeds to wire wheel material off the balanced adapter. Didnt check to see if it is balanced now
There is no balance adapter. It's literally a spacer and that's it 🤦, I literally took built up grass off the blade because it'll never balance correctly with built up grass and mud. Think before you comment.
@@CountrysideStrong the spacer "adapter" joining the 2 blades keeping them in position is balanced before you removed material.
What about when you bag leaves? Have you tried a mulch blade when you have a bagger on to reduce size and increase capacity?
Yup
Thought Ballard said no high lift blades ? Just ordered but saw on website.
Everyone has their own opinion he just got into ox blades a year ago I've been doing it for 20 years. Korey's a smart guy and he knows his stuff I'm not disregarding him and maybe he has to say that for insurance reasons but I've never had an issue doing it this way.
I hear what you are saying about the spindles, and greasing them, but the only mower I know that uses roller bearings is Skag. I have grease fittings on my mower, but it as sealed bearings. What's the point of wasting grease?
If it has grease fittings and you don't grease them you're going to find out what the point is eventually. A lot of manufacturers now are going to greaseless mowers and I'm just not a fan I would rather grease them and know it's in there
Countryside I agree with what you are saying. However my point was that you can't grease a sealed bearing through a Zert fitting the grease falls into the chamber, and lays there until it melts on top of the bottom sealed bearing. I squirt grease in mine in hopes that it may cool the bearing a bit.
@@garyburchett9060 it will def help keep things lubricated reducing wear and heat. I would agree with that
Won’t be using them again, used for about a year and had to replace all my spindles on my Graverly 60. Loved the cut and discharge but the cost benefit doesn’t work for me
You had a bigger issue then admit it or not.
@@CountrysideStrong Not a bigger issue just didn’t see value in replacing spindles once a year just to run 6 blades when the graverly cuts well without it.
@@mjsgameworldbeta4814 oh I can understand that I'm just saying the x-blades aren't what destroyed the spindles
@@CountrysideStrong not saying it’s not possible but from all my research and even working with gravely it all pointed to to the blades being the source fortunately for me after covering the cost on the front end graverly did reimbursed me out of what they a good faith program but I but that’s bc the mower was only 14 months old
What type of machines do you think would be compatible, the site I'd seen probably over a year ago said not to be used on "residential tractors", would you agree with that or do you think it'd be fine? I'd tried it (without the adapters) on my resi tractor (46" ariens) with a gator and a dethatch blade and wasnt to impressed, then again maybe I'm just not use to the dethatching blades (purpose of the gators were more for lift and throw of the dethatch).
I wouldn't use them on residential equipment
where else can you buy them besides Ballard ? my blades are 2-1/4 wide and the dont make them.
Do you run these spring to fall? Im hoping not to bag at all this year up in the N.W. Wondering what discharge looks like in the spring when the grass is thick tall and wet?
Used x blades on my 60” zero turn gravely In wet grass and heavy grass they bogged my motor down. 22 horse motor
I haven’t had that issue. Does burn allot more fuel tho
Will running super hi lift blades in wet grass make my deck clog more or less?? Running a 60” Lazer Z and a 52” Staris. Trying to decide to get more exmark blades from the dealer or order ballards new super hi lift blade. Looking forward to your response. Thank you
No it'll clog allot less but I would run just super high lifts from eBay they're no different than Ballards and cheaper
@@CountrysideStrong okay thanks. So it won’t just slap the wet grass underneath the deck? Happy Father’s Day to you as well I appreciate your help
No mine doesn't and thanks boss, same to you
@@bigkeatin394 nope
Great tip on the x blade set up I wish I could use them on my craftsman LT mower see you later young man
👍👍
@@CountrysideStrong 👍👍👌👌
great video on x blades. 👌 do u think they will work on my Toro z master 4000 52in with the ez vac bagging? will it help with more suction
Thank you. I've never used them with an actual bagging system but the machine itself it will work well
@@CountrysideStrong, thanks for getting back so soon, 1st time using the x blade adapters from Ballard's, and took your suggestions on short tail on bottom with factory toro blades on top on my 36 grandstand night and day it stripes alot better and no clumping better than the extra high lifts I had on. but it does uses more fuel, but again with only single blades going to make 2 or 3 passes for clean up anyway. going to try the x blades adapters on the z master with the bagging system. I'm hoping with the vac belt and the cross blades will not cause any issues. fingers crossed 🤞
@@MyF-qx1tp I think you'll be alright. I don't really foresee anything bad happening
@@CountrysideStrong thanks have a great evening
You too👍👍
thank you for this review. actually i am looking to change blades for my New Husqvarna z560X (its arriving tomorrow). which blades would you reccomend from Ballard? also which blade grinder would you advice to get? (PS. i Leave in Greece - Europe). thanks in advance for all your replies...💪
I order from eBay for blades and I use the RBG712
how about serated blades?
Nice...se texas bahia keeps me from running at faster speeds often....do you think xblade set would solve that!??
Its a tough stalk after just a week
It could def help
I have a Dixie chopper 2250 magnum. It has never discharged grass worth a flip. With that said I’m not mowing perfect yard I have weeds Bahia and Bermuda grass. Live in the country of east Texas what blade type would you recommend for my type of mowing
I would say try a high lift with the short tail. If that doesn't work, try a standard high lift