Great part 2 as well. Just watched it. The tube on top was leaking. I pulled it out and put it right back and it seemed to seal but I’m ordering the valve and tube to be safe. My steamer was not steaming, it seems the pulsating pump action, the water was coming out of the tube/T connection.
Yes, in part 2 I found I was missing a sealing washer, but the top tube could leak as well, likely because the little o-ring was out of position or worn out. Do have o-rings available.
I don’t have any available but I ordered a new safety valve and tube, so I’ll get it then. Do you think that a leaking “top tube” - the one that goes from the Safety Valve to the thermocoil would cause the steamer to not steam that well? It seems to have fixed it but not sure why.
@@tonycampanella4597 Yes, that tube takes the full flow out of the pump and puts it into the thermocoil. Any leak there will reduce flow to the rest of the machine: ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.htmlsi=9UHYcDme_sHm3-cd
Well to me the best way to test a pump is to run it for a set time and see how much it will pump. It appears that leak is your problem. Say though take pump 1 and pump into a bucket for 1 minute. Mark the height of water. Empty the bucket and repeat with pump 2.
Good suggestion. At the time, I couldn't find any specs on the pump output but I finally found some this morning. I should be able to test out the flow rate and see how that stacks up once I round up some more parts to do that testing with.
@@The4Crawler well I'm a water plant operator so I have to test flow rates on regular basis mainly as it applies to chemical delivery for water treatment.
Struggling with mine. Looking in to the same valve but on a different model. Also the size of the little ball in the pump is important like you said. They make some out of glass but some say they are too hard for the metal. There is another valve with a ball or mushroom shaped with a spring at the exit of the pump to prevent the hot water from the boiler to go back in the pump when it stops. A small loss in pressure makes a big difference in how the coffee comes out and it is hard to detect what can cause it. I also wonder if coil packs become weaker over times as the windings can deteriorate. The diode should be in series and in that case if it opens the pump should stop functioning. If it whould weld shot a a short the pump should go twice the vibrations and one would notice also. So basically it is about just a few components but they must work perfectly. It would be easier to fix if one had components to swap ready.
Thanks for the question. I don't think the pressure would be that high in this test. It's just the small Teflon tube on the outlet for a restriction. I did later set up a test with a valve and pressure gauge that I need to make a video about.
so the machine has 15bars but in your video you mentioned maybe 10-11 bars. were you able to install a gauge between the pump to the group head to see what the psi really was going at?
Hello, First, thanks for your helpful videos. I have low pressure problem on my Breville. When initially turned on, the water pump noise seems to be less noisy than usually. I checked the Solenoid valves they seems to be ok turning on and off on time. I also checked the water filter and inline filter, and low pressure was even when bypassing them. Before buying the water pump and check a new one, do you have any other idea? All the pipes looks open, the O-rings looks ok visually. The safety valve is not leaking when the water pump is on. The water pump looks pumping ok, but not sure if it got tired over the years to not produce the right pressure. When doing the water pressure test, I was able to get high pressure but not toward the end of the dial, so I am thinking it is the water pump but looking for second opinion :)
The pumps do seem to wear over time. There's a little ball inside the pump head that works as a check valve. It wears out and that can cause the pressure to drop as water leaks back into the pump. In my case a new pump restored the pressure to the normal range. I plan to order a rebuild kit for my old pump and want to compare what a new ball looks like to the older one.
@@The4Crawler I've been looking for a rebuild kit for my pump, which works fine when just turned on and after being on for 10 minutes, fails to pump at all. If you could provide a link to a rebuild kit, we'd all appreciate it, thanks!
Have you solved your problem? I think my BES870 has the same problem. When turn on the machine , the water pump is getting less noisy and when I tried to press the 1 cup and 2 cup button, almost no pump noise and also no water flow. I tried to contact Malaysia’s Breville and they asked me to send back to the store I’ve purchased from. Sadly I bought from Sydney, no reason to ask me send back to Sydney. Quite helpless now
Did you ever find out why your safety valve was leaking? Everywhere I look I find these valves are discontinued and no longer available. I just bought a used 870XL off eBay and it comes with low pressure so I am really curious about what is the problem. It may be the same problem as you were having. Your videos are so helpful and detailed. Great Job!!! Thank you so much for all your hard work!
I need to finish up the video where I took a look at this subject. Short answer is no. I first hooked up my pressure test setup and notice the valve was dripping a bit, then it stopped and seems to be fine. I suspect it may have had a bit of debris stuck inside that was preventing it from fully sealing. I need to open up that valve for a look inside, but I think all it has is a ball and a spring with a threaded plunger to adjust the pressure it opens at.
Mike. Great Videos! I have an 870 XL that has me frustrated. I have replaced main operating board, solenoid assembly unit, and the coil unit. I have water out the steam wand and the hot water, but I cant get any water to come out of the group head. Can you help me here?
@@hirschyfamily Check out this video if you haven't done so: ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.html And follow the water. Check all the connections, see if any lines are clogged, make sure the solenoid valves are hooked up right and not hanging up partly open. Those all will cause water to flow up to the hot water/steam valve as that's the default path if everything isn't perfect.
@@The4Crawler I watched that video so many times and checked water flow. Great video. There is a tube in front of the coil unit that does not remove. It seems to go to the pressure valve. I took out the valve and it’s all good. The only thing I can think is that this unremovable line is blocked somehow. I’m going to part out the machine and get something new. Any suggestions for a new machine?
@@hirschyfamily Try disconnecting the line at the pressure valve and see if you can blow air through it. That line feeds water from the pump, through the thermo-coil and down to the side of the solenoid valve assembly. Since you get water out the hot water valve, the line from the pressure valve is likely fine because if it wasn't, then no water would go out the hot water valve. Most likely it's the 3-port valve not fully opening and that will let water leak out the top and into the hot water valve and down to the drip tray. THE only way hot water can get to the group head is IF that 3-port valve opens fully AND seals off the top port to allow hot water to flow out the side of the valve and up the tube in the middle. It could also be the 2-port solenoid on the side is stuck open and that will allow hot water to pass right to the drip tray.
@@The4Crawler I'm having the same issue as this person. Water out of the steam and hot water outlets but not the grouphead. Everything was backordered in the states. Tried disassembling the 2/3 solenoid and cleaning. Didn't work. Finally ordered a new 2/3 solenoid from germany. They had the 120volt version but after installing it no water from anywhere except straight into the reservoir. Next day my backordered valve kit shipped... Installed that when it arrived. Didn't work either. I'm back to square 1. Have checked every hose and I can blow air and water through them. I tried putting the 2/2 colored wire on the 2/3 solenoid to see what would happen, because I can hear the 2/2 solenoid activating. Finally got water to come out of the grouphead but it's just the sputtering last bit because it's activating at the end of the cycle after all the water has flushed to the reservoir. Any ideas?
What device are you using to test the pump? I have an espresso machine, and I am not sure if the pump has an issue, or if the machine's circuit is not able to power the pump. This looks like a useful device!
My stupid machine won't stop extracting shot, pulling shot on its own. I have to manually stop it. Any ideas on what the problem is? Thanks for your work man.
My guess is either the flow meter isn't connected or is not working: ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.html Or the main circuit board has a problem. You could try reprogramming the volume setting per the instructions in the manual. Or contact Breville customer support and see if they have any other ideas.
@@The4Crawler That's for the tip. Will look into it. Machine is 2 yrs old so it's past warranty. Called Breville and they want me to pay $180 to send it in for repairs and won't discuss what may be wrong with the machine. I don't want to do that if I can help it.
Hi Andrew, I have the same issue. What I did was first try to descale the machine and it usually helps for some time but it only lasted for couple of weeks recently(It was lasting for longer). What I guess is the flow meter might have some sediment which can't be easily descale. So, I replace the flow meter and it works fine so far. This is what I order: www.ereplacementparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=629903#RepairInstructions Thanks for the amazing video to show how to dissemble the machine.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great part 2 as well. Just watched it. The tube on top was leaking. I pulled it out and put it right back and it seemed to seal but I’m ordering the valve and tube to be safe. My steamer was not steaming, it seems the pulsating pump action, the water was coming out of the tube/T connection.
Yes, in part 2 I found I was missing a sealing washer, but the top tube could leak as well, likely because the little o-ring was out of position or worn out. Do have o-rings available.
I don’t have any available but I ordered a new safety valve and tube, so I’ll get it then. Do you think that a leaking “top tube” - the one that goes from the Safety Valve to the thermocoil would cause the steamer to not steam that well? It seems to have fixed it but not sure why.
@@tonycampanella4597 Yes, that tube takes the full flow out of the pump and puts it into the thermocoil. Any leak there will reduce flow to the rest of the machine:
ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.htmlsi=9UHYcDme_sHm3-cd
Thanks this fixed my machine that wasn't frothing milk properly anymore
Glad you were able to get your machine working!
Well to me the best way to test a pump is to run it for a set time and see how much it will pump. It appears that leak is your problem. Say though take pump 1 and pump into a bucket for 1 minute. Mark the height of water. Empty the bucket and repeat with pump 2.
Good suggestion. At the time, I couldn't find any specs on the pump output but I finally found some this morning. I should be able to test out the flow rate and see how that stacks up once I round up some more parts to do that testing with.
@@The4Crawler well I'm a water plant operator so I have to test flow rates on regular basis mainly as it applies to chemical delivery for water treatment.
Fantastic video. Nice work. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Nice channel bud! Very useful videos! Thanks
Glad you like them!
Struggling with mine. Looking in to the same valve but on a different model. Also the size of the little ball in the pump is important like you said. They make some out of glass but some say they are too hard for the metal. There is another valve with a ball or mushroom shaped with a spring at the exit of the pump to prevent the hot water from the boiler to go back in the pump when it stops. A small loss in pressure makes a big difference in how the coffee comes out and it is hard to detect what can cause it. I also wonder if coil packs become weaker over times as the windings can deteriorate. The diode should be in series and in that case if it opens the pump should stop functioning. If it whould weld shot a a short the pump should go twice the vibrations and one would notice also. So basically it is about just a few components but they must work perfectly. It would be easier to fix if one had components to swap ready.
This is 15 bar correct?
Thanks for the question. I don't think the pressure would be that high in this test. It's just the small Teflon tube on the outlet for a restriction. I did later set up a test with a valve and pressure gauge that I need to make a video about.
Could you please do a video taking apart the pump?
Keep it going 🙌
Would it be possible for you to please make a video taking apart the pump?
I hope to when I get the time. Will also show how to rebuild the pump with new internal parts.
so the machine has 15bars but in your video you mentioned maybe 10-11 bars. were you able to install a gauge between the pump to the group head to see what the psi really was going at?
I'm working on a new video where I make a test jig to see what the pump pressure is, so stay tuned for that.
Looking forward to that! Keep up the good work!
@@The4Crawler Me too! I am still having issues with low pressure.
If all else fails that pump could be a pretty cool watergun if battery operated somehow :)
Hello, First, thanks for your helpful videos. I have low pressure problem on my Breville. When initially turned on, the water pump noise seems to be less noisy than usually. I checked the Solenoid valves they seems to be ok turning on and off on time. I also checked the water filter and inline filter, and low pressure was even when bypassing them. Before buying the water pump and check a new one, do you have any other idea? All the pipes looks open, the O-rings looks ok visually. The safety valve is not leaking when the water pump is on. The water pump looks pumping ok, but not sure if it got tired over the years to not produce the right pressure. When doing the water pressure test, I was able to get high pressure but not toward the end of the dial, so I am thinking it is the water pump but looking for second opinion :)
The pumps do seem to wear over time. There's a little ball inside the pump head that works as a check valve. It wears out and that can cause the pressure to drop as water leaks back into the pump. In my case a new pump restored the pressure to the normal range. I plan to order a rebuild kit for my old pump and want to compare what a new ball looks like to the older one.
@@The4Crawler I've been looking for a rebuild kit for my pump, which works fine when just turned on and after being on for 10 minutes, fails to pump at all. If you could provide a link to a rebuild kit, we'd all appreciate it, thanks!
Have you solved your problem? I think my BES870 has the same problem. When turn on the machine , the water pump is getting less noisy and when I tried to press the 1 cup and 2 cup button, almost no pump noise and also no water flow. I tried to contact Malaysia’s Breville and they asked me to send back to the store I’ve purchased from. Sadly I bought from Sydney, no reason to ask me send back to Sydney. Quite helpless now
Did you ever find out why your safety valve was leaking? Everywhere I look I find these valves are discontinued and no longer available. I just bought a used 870XL off eBay and it comes with low pressure so I am really curious about what is the problem. It may be the same problem as you were having. Your videos are so helpful and detailed. Great Job!!! Thank you so much for all your hard work!
I need to finish up the video where I took a look at this subject. Short answer is no. I first hooked up my pressure test setup and notice the valve was dripping a bit, then it stopped and seems to be fine. I suspect it may have had a bit of debris stuck inside that was preventing it from fully sealing. I need to open up that valve for a look inside, but I think all it has is a ball and a spring with a threaded plunger to adjust the pressure it opens at.
@@The4Crawler Hey! Thanks for getting back to me. Great information! Cheers!
Mike. Great Videos! I have an 870 XL that has me frustrated. I have replaced main operating board, solenoid assembly unit, and the coil unit. I have water out the steam wand and the hot water, but I cant get any water to come out of the group head. Can you help me here?
i have also replaced the entire pump assembly.
@@hirschyfamily Check out this video if you haven't done so:
ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.html
And follow the water. Check all the connections, see if any lines are clogged, make sure the solenoid valves are hooked up right and not hanging up partly open. Those all will cause water to flow up to the hot water/steam valve as that's the default path if everything isn't perfect.
@@The4Crawler I watched that video so many times and checked water flow. Great video. There is a tube in front of the coil unit that does not remove. It seems to go to the pressure valve. I took out the valve and it’s all good. The only thing I can think is that this unremovable line is blocked somehow. I’m going to part out the machine and get something new. Any suggestions for a new machine?
@@hirschyfamily Try disconnecting the line at the pressure valve and see if you can blow air through it. That line feeds water from the pump, through the thermo-coil and down to the side of the solenoid valve assembly. Since you get water out the hot water valve, the line from the pressure valve is likely fine because if it wasn't, then no water would go out the hot water valve. Most likely it's the 3-port valve not fully opening and that will let water leak out the top and into the hot water valve and down to the drip tray. THE only way hot water can get to the group head is IF that 3-port valve opens fully AND seals off the top port to allow hot water to flow out the side of the valve and up the tube in the middle. It could also be the 2-port solenoid on the side is stuck open and that will allow hot water to pass right to the drip tray.
@@The4Crawler I'm having the same issue as this person. Water out of the steam and hot water outlets but not the grouphead.
Everything was backordered in the states.
Tried disassembling the 2/3 solenoid and cleaning.
Didn't work.
Finally ordered a new 2/3 solenoid from germany. They had the 120volt version but after installing it no water from anywhere except straight into the reservoir.
Next day my backordered valve kit shipped...
Installed that when it arrived. Didn't work either.
I'm back to square 1.
Have checked every hose and I can blow air and water through them.
I tried putting the 2/2 colored wire on the 2/3 solenoid to see what would happen, because I can hear the 2/2 solenoid activating. Finally got water to come out of the grouphead but it's just the sputtering last bit because it's activating at the end of the cycle after all the water has flushed to the reservoir.
Any ideas?
What device are you using to test the pump? I have an espresso machine, and I am not sure if the pump has an issue, or if the machine's circuit is not able to power the pump. This looks like a useful device!
That's a Cliff Quick Test, very handy gadget for doing these sorts of tests safely:
ruclips.net/video/pFY22kP61NU/видео.html
My stupid machine won't stop extracting shot, pulling shot on its own. I have to manually stop it. Any ideas on what the problem is? Thanks for your work man.
My guess is either the flow meter isn't connected or is not working:
ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.html
Or the main circuit board has a problem. You could try reprogramming the volume setting per the instructions in the manual. Or contact Breville customer support and see if they have any other ideas.
@@The4Crawler That's for the tip. Will look into it. Machine is 2 yrs old so it's past warranty. Called Breville and they want me to pay $180 to send it in for repairs and won't discuss what may be wrong with the machine. I don't want to do that if I can help it.
Hi Andrew, I have the same issue. What I did was first try to descale the machine and it usually helps for some time but it only lasted for couple of weeks recently(It was lasting for longer). What I guess is the flow meter might have some sediment which can't be easily descale. So, I replace the flow meter and it works fine so far. This is what I order: www.ereplacementparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=629903#RepairInstructions
Thanks for the amazing video to show how to dissemble the machine.