I had the same problem. No water. The plastic ball in my pump had a diameter of 3,1mm (16 years of wear). New one is much bigger. Why they do not make them in other material? But now my pump is working again.
Wow Leo 16 years is an incredibly long time. Was that with the original parts? Ulka expects a decline in performance after 12 to 18 months, so 16 years without maintenance is almost unbelievable. It proves once again that these pumps can last a very long time. Especially when you maintain them properly. I do have old pumps in machines that I maintain, but the O-ring is replaced every year and the valves every four years or sooner if necessary. I think the ball is made of this plastic because it meets the desired conditions. Namely that it is reasonably durable, that it is tough (it does not break and no shards break off), it is food safe because it is not porous and, most importantly, it is lightweight (40 milligrams). The ball "hits" the axle 50 times per second (in the USA 60 times per second). There is a pyrex glass ball offered on the internet, but it is more than twice as heavy and it is so hard that it will damage the piston shaft and the spring. So with a glass valve your pump will never last 16 years or come close to that age. So if it is necessary to replace the plastic ball every few years to ensure that your pump lasts that long, it is not such a bad design in my opinion. 😉 Cheers, Marc.
From my experience, just replacing just the [2 x 4.5] oring fixed the pump. While 2x4.5 is the size of the oring, the actual measurements are 4.5 mm I.D. x 8.5 mm O.D. x 2 mm cross section. It's about a 1-hour job and requires (Rocket Appartmento) a 7mm socket for many of the screws. The replacement of just this one oring compensates for the wear on the ID by the piston shaft.
Thanks for sharing your experience @Had2Ask. You are absolutely right that the O-ring is usually worn out and is therefore the first part that causes the "leakage" in the pump. But that is certainly not always the only thing. For example: I have overhauled almost new pumps where the rubber valve was stuck. And I have also helped many people where this was also the problem in somewhat older pumps. Both type 4 and type 5 Ulka pumps. Moreover, this is an important valve because it is the seal to warm water. And heat is an absolute no go for these pumps. But leakage of this valve is very rare fortunately. However, the valve being stuck is more common. The ball in the type 5 pump wears out slowly, but does wear out and will eventually need to be replaced at some point. My experience with the overhauls is that the 5x2mm O-ring (and 4x2 for the type 4 pump) works perfectly, even during a pressure test. But a 4.5x2mm O-ring will probably work for the type 5 as well because the O-ring is in a pre-formed space in the pump (with a diameter of 8.65mm) where the 4.5mm O-ring is stretched (the shaft of the piston pin is 5mm) and the 5mm O-ring is pressed in (because of the 8.65mm space in the pump). This makes the cross-section of the 5mm O-ring a bit thicker and that of the 4.5mm O-ring a bit thinner. That's why I prefer the 5mm O-ring. But hey, if the 4.5x2mm O-ring works for you, it works for me. After more than a hundred successful revisions, I stick with the 5x2mm O-ring. The full revision in this video is to show people that you can do a revision yourself. Guys (or girls) who regularly overhaul pumps themselves know that you don't always have to replace all parts. But a do-it-yourselfer who wants to overhaul his pump once (or a company that carries out a repair) wants to be sure that the overhaul is successful. And probably does not want to run the risk of having to take the machine apart again because it was not just the O-ring. And a company does not want a machine to come back to replace a small part (or an entire pump). Then it makes sense to play it safe and replace all three parts. And because the costs of the parts are low, that is easy to do. But again, you are right that in many cases the problems would have been solved by just replacing the O-ring. May we overhaul many more pumps, because a pump lasts much longer than these wear parts. Cheers, Marc.
Hey there, thanks for the video. My EP4FMGW/SP does not have a ball and a spring, is that normal? Everything else is exactly as shown in your video. The coffee machine was working properly but then suddenly stopped. I opened it and saw that there was no ball and spring there. Also there was a small white cap in between the channel of the ball and the other channel with the black round thing (the one you have in your replacement kit). Is that normal?
Hi @SipanTseliker, Yes, that's absolutely right. The type 4 has an internal valve (the white you see) and therefore does not need a ball. The O-ring is 4 millimeters for type 4 and 5 mm for type 5. The mushroom-shaped rubber valve is the same for types 4 and 5. Here you can find a picture of the cross-section of a type 4 pump: photos.app.goo.gl/cYPh1k4heYDRiK8X8
well done very easy to follow. I am currently fixing the same water pump installed in a steamer/vacuum IBER 2000 and has the same exact pump. From your vid, I noticed that my pump has some missing parts in it unfortunately.
Xin chào bạn, tôi cũng tìm thấy chiếc bơm này trong máy hấp của hãng Melag. Tôi đang thắc mắc là cái tuabin cũng rất hay phải thay mà tôi chưa hiểu tại sao nó bị hỏng. Tôi thực sự biết ơn nếu được ai đó chỉ dẫn
Hey Marc, I have the same pump that has a great reassure, but the issue with it is after some rest, lets say in the morning, when I switch on the water is not flowing for 2-3 sec, but after it starts and has a great pressure. If I restart the pump then works perfectly. Has this waiting only after some rest. Do you think replacing these o-rings and ball could solve this problem? Thanks
Hi Tamas, This sounds a lot like the mushroom-shaped rubber valve gets stuck every now and then. Then the pump makes noise and tries to pump but there is no water flow. This often starts after the machine has been turned off for a few hours and continues to happen more and more often until it remains stuck. You can then take the pump apart and loosen the valve, but this is usually a temporary solution and the problem will return. But if the pump remains completely silent, the problem may be electrical. It is of course difficult to diagnose the problem with 100% certainty from a distance, but I think, based on your story, that with an overhaul set (including the mushroom shaped valve) your pump will work again. But, of course, I can't guarantee it. Cheers, Marc.
Hello . Unfortunately , in my case, the rubber gasket shows no wear, but there is no pressure! the solenoid is humming, water is passing through the boiler, all boiler outlets have been flushed by disassembling, the required pressure has not appeared... This is the new Gaggia Classic . Only 1.5 years old!!!
Hi Wladimir, It is very difficult to observe the wear of the O-ring. I would still try to see what happens when you replace the O-ring. You can try an O-ring with size 5x2mm (IDxCS) for this. This is slightly thicker than the original ring and should work well. If the piston does not move and remains stationary, there must be a blockage. This can be in the machine, but it can also be one of the valves of the pump. If you have already replaced the O-ring and the pump does not want to move, this may be because the rubber of the O-ring provides too much friction. A tiny bit of silicone grease will help to start the pump dry. Once the pump is filled with water, this problem will not occur. According to Ulka, the pump has a lifespan of 12 to 18 months (depending on use) before performance decreases. To ensure that the pump in the machines I maintain continues to function 100%, I replace the O-ring every year. Good luck with the repair. Cheers, Marc.
@@MarcSchiedam Hi , Marc! The service - life is only 1.5 years... this is just terrible..., I thought 3-5 years... ) It requires food-grade silicone , and I have already ordered it. Thanks! Regards
Hi @Velrod77, I can send you such a set. Ulka does not supply spare parts, so I put together these sets of 3 pcs myself. They are exactly the same parts as the manufacturer used. Hundreds of pumps have now been overhauled with such a set, so if the pump is otherwise in good condition, an overhaul works fine. I haven't come across these sets with the rubber valve anywhere else, so I don't know if you can get them elsewhere. If you are interested send me an email, the email address is on the label in this video. Cheers, Marc.
Greetings. It is possible to make a video on how to replace a pump on the de Longhi EC 201CD.B coffee machine since there is no video of this type anywhere on the web. Thank you
Hi Roberto, I don't have such a machine in maintenance, so I can't make a video of it in the short term. I can probably get hold of the machine and make a video of it, but that will be long term. So that won't help you now. Cheers, Marc.
Ok, I think that's the problem I have. I'm going to tell you what happened. The coffee maker is a year and a half old and has hardly been used but I made the mistake of putting pure vinegar in it and leaving it for several hours. then the problems began. first releasing little steam. Finally the piston stopped moving and although the coil can be heard vibrating when it does not move, the piston does not draw water. Based on your video and others, I just disassembled the bomb and each of its parts as in your video and dried everything and put it back together by blowing through all the buildings (this was very difficult because some of them seemed covered). After assembling everything, the piston moved again and worked for about 15 seconds and water came out. It stopped and started again. Then it stopped again and you can again hear the coil vibrating but the piston not moving. Do you think that the white ball and the black rubber have been worn out by the vinegar and that is why the piston does not move because the necessary vacuum is not formed? In the explanation of your video written below you refer to it still making a humming sound. This is what I hear but clarifying that I do not hear the typical noise of the pump working with the piston moving.
The silicone grease is to get the rubber valve out of the spring more easily, not to lubricate the pump. It's always difficult to give advice from a distance and I don't know which machine it is, but I'll share my thoughts on this. Just a warning in front: I don't know you so don't know what you can and can't do so only do work for which you have the competence or don't do it or ask for help. Only work on the machine when unplugged and allow the machine to cool down before working on it. Everything you do is at your own risk. It is a well-known problem that after descaling, by flushing the entire machine, blockages occur. Most often in (or just after) the thermoblock or boiler (depending on the machine). Descaling releases pieces of limescale that cause the clogging. I would advise you to disconnect the pipes to and from the thermoblock (or boiler) and descale this part. I ALWAYS descale a thermoblock separately. By the way, I wouldn't do it with vinegar because it only works moderately and leaves a taste in your machine that is difficult to get out. I use citric acid or (sometimes prescribed by the manufacturer) lactic acid. These products work faster and do not leave any taste after rinsing with water a few times. Using vinegar is not wrong, it just doesn't work as well and doesn't taste good. Parts do not wear out due to vinegar. Assuming there is no over pressure valve in the machine, the following: when there is a blockage in the machine, and your pump is working properly, the pump will come to a halt because there is a huge pressure in the pipes and there can be no water flow. If the pump were not functioning properly, it would not be able to build up such high pressure and therefore continue pumping because the O-ring and/or valves are leaking. So the way I read your story, I first think of a blockage somewhere than worn parts of the pump. But it could be a stuck valve of the pump (the rubber mushroom-shaped valve). It would be very coincidental that this happens right after a decalcification, but it is possible and that problem gives the same characteristics. You can easily check this by detaching the hose at the outlet of the pump (or at the other end of the hose at entrance of the next element after the pump) and checking whether water comes out of it when you test the machine. Before testing take a picture of the wiring and disconnect the wires from the thermoblock (or boiler) if there is no water flowing through it. To be on the safe side, because a thermoblock does have a thermal protection, but without water it quickly gets very hot. A heating element in a boiler should never be heated when the boiler is not filled with water at all. I once helped someone on a forum to find a blockage in a Philips machine, maybe that will help you. You can find it here: www.home-barista.com/repairs/ulka-ep5-pump-replacement-t87226.html Some more comments about your post: -When a pump comes to a standstill, turn off the machine immediately to prevent damage to the pump. A pump quickly gets too hot. -Steam is probably created because there is stagnant water (no flow) in the thermoblock that will boil. -When you disassemble the pump, the pressure is off and most of the water is out of the system, so it can take up to 15 seconds for the system is filled up again, the maximum pressure is reached and therefore the pump comes to a stop. -With "humming sound" I mean the coil is working so the pump "wants" to work but is not building up pressure. If there is an electric problem, the pump is silent and is beyond repair. These are my thoughts on this with the information I got from your post. But again, it's hard to give advice from a distance, so I could be completely wrong. Figuring out where things are going wrong step by step is the best way to figure out what the problem is. Good luck with it. Cheers, Marc.
Hello Marc, I greatly appreciate and appreciate your comments. I tell you that I was finally able to repair the machine by changing the oring with a new one of the same size. Evidently the vinegar and the passage of 2 years of use caused the original oring to wear out as it seemed somewhat sticky to the touch, very different from the completely smooth and shiny new one. I understand that what happened was several things at the same time: using pure vinegar for several nights caused clogs in the boiler and degraded the oring. The white ball and black mushroom-shaped rubber retainer are in good condition. Once I was able to change the oring, I found that the pump revived, before it only vibrated but the piston did not move, I understand that with the new oring it had sufficient pressure again. But the boiler was clogged in the inlet and outlet ducts, as well as the valve/relay that allows water to pass through to generate pressure for the milk. I uncovered the inlet and outlet ducts, blew hard to unclog them. The water began to flow. Then I proceeded to descale, but this time, as many recommend in these parts, with the vinegar diluted by half with water. After several hours, everything returned almost to normal, let's say 90%. I still need to do a deep descaling with citric acid, which I will do in the next few days, but I already have coffee with milk again for breakfast. Thank you very much for your video, it was very useful for me to understand the problem of the worn oring!!@@MarcSchiedam
Hi Marcelo, Thank you very much for your response and sharing the results of your work. I appreciate that a lot. 👍 Problems are often a combination of different things. In the event of a (partial) blockage, the pump has to work harder, the water flow is slower, more lime enters the system, which causes more blockage, etc. The O-ring must have been stuck in your pump to make it stop. If the O-ring only leaks, the pump will continue to run because the water is "pumped" back and forth in the pump. So you see, sometimes you encounter surprising problems. By the way, I replace the O-ring of the pump on the machines I maintain every year during major cleaning and descaling. But good to hear that it turned out well for you. May you enjoy your coffee for a long time. Cheers, Marc.
Hi piotr @piotrkowalcyk2363, Because I get this question often, I put the set on eBay: www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130 If you want to order parts separately, you can send me an email and we will see if we can arrange something. My email address is marc.schiedamATgmailDOTcom (this is also mentioned in the details of my RUclips channel). Cheers, Marc.
I don't have a store but try to help people repair their machines. If you want me to help you with an overhaul set, send me an email and we will work something out. My mail address is in the info of my/this RUclips channel. And also on the label in the video. I have previously helped someone from Canada and shipped to Toronto Ontario.
Hello Tamer, I put the set together myself. To help people I put the set on eBay. www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130 If you want the set and live outside Europe, please send me an email, the email address is in the information of this RUclips channel. I wish you a nice day. Cheers, Marc.
Hi @toddjones2084, If you send me an email I will help you. My email address is in the information of this RUclips channel and on the label in the video.
Olá Marcio, Eu não falo português, então isso é feito através do Google Translate, então peço desculpas se minha mensagem não estiver totalmente correta. Tudo o que você pede (também via eBay) é possível. Mas para discutir isso pode ser mais útil se você entrar em contato comigo por e-mail. Meu endereço de e-mail está incluído nas informações do meu canal no RUclips. Obrigado Atenciosamente, Marc.
Hi Marc, thanks for your videos! I would like to buy some repair kits. Can’t find your email on your RUclips info. I understand you have an eBay account?
Vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht. Soweit ich weiß, kann eine Ceme-Pumpe nicht überholt werden. Daher kenne ich keinen Lieferanten für Ceme-Teile. Ich weiß auch nicht, ob die Teile mit denen der Ulka-Pumpe übereinstimmen. Und wenn man die Pumpe öffnen kann, kann ich die Teile für eine Ulka-Pumpe liefern, weiß aber nicht, ob sie in eine Ceme-Pumpe passen. Gruß, Marc.
@mladenm.3696 Hi, I can supply you with the set of 3 pcs (as shown in the video). Or if you are just looking for the O-ring and the ball, I can also supply that, but you can also find such a set of 2 pcs elsewhere, on eBay for example. When you buy on eBay, please note that it is a set with a plastic ball and NOT a glass ball. A glass ball will damage your pump. If you want me to help you, just send me an email. My email address is in this channel's information and on the label in the video. Cheers, Marc.
Hi @paquitoperez2116 No, that's right. I'm sorry but it was a bit too popular so I got into trouble with eBay as an individual for selling too much. But I do want to help you, if you send me an email I will help you further. My email address is on the label in the video
@iar3270 Hola, si quieres un kit así te lo puedo proporcionar. En ese caso puedes enviarme un correo electrónico. Mi dirección de correo electrónico está en la información de este canal de RUclips y en la etiqueta del set del vídeo. Entonces te ayudaré más. Hello, if you want such a kit I can provide it to you. In that case you can send me an email. My email address is in the information of this RUclips channel and on the kit label on the video. Then I will help you further.
Hi, I can help you. Please contact me via email, my email address is in the information for this RUclips channel. Hola, puedo ayudarte. Por favor contácteme por correo electrónico, mi dirección de correo electrónico se encuentra en la información de este canal de RUclips.
That is a persistent story, but complete nonsense. Because what do you think will go wrong in those "few months"? Of course, once a pump has suffered damage due to overload or overheating, you cannot repair it with an overhaul kit. But if the coil is in good condition, after an overhaul you will have a pump that is just as good as a new one. And it lasts just as long, if not longer. Ulka notes that a pump's performance will decrease after 12 to 18 months. And I have machines in maintenance with a pump that is more than 15 years old that work as if they were new (I test them for pressure). In those 15 years, parts worth €19.50 (sales price) have been replaced. If you maintain these pumps properly, they will last a very long time. So I don't know what exactly your "experience" is worth, but it certainly doesn't match mine. But hey, if you want to buy a new pump every few years, it is something that everyone can decide for themselves, but it is certainly not cost-effective. Moreover, before you replace the pump after a few years, it has probably not worked 100% for a while.
@@MarcSchiedam sorry For not making it clear. Whether it’s cost-effective or not will depend on the price and quality of these parts. I purchased the overhaul kit for 4 usd and my ulka pump built up pressure again in just 2 months and then it failed. So I decided to replace with a new ulka pump for 10 usd and it has been working smoothly for 1 year and still in good condition. That is my experience and I take it as cost effective , hope it makes sense
That's what I thought. Your response " _It wouldn't last long after overhauling, just a few months._ " is not correct. I'm sorry that your project was not successful, but this could be for various reasons. With all due respect, it is impossible for you to say on that basis that overhauling a pump wouldn't last. My experience is based on more than 200 overhauled pumps. For my curiosity: Do you have a link to the overhaul kit you used? And which part of the pump "failed" after two months?
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much. This was very helpful indeed.
You are welcome. Glad it's of some use to you.
Moin Marc, welche Mühe Sie sich machen, klasse. 👍👍👍
Gruss aus Hamburg
👍
I had the same problem. No water. The plastic ball in my pump had a diameter of 3,1mm (16 years of wear). New one is much bigger. Why they do not make them in other material? But now my pump is working again.
Wow Leo 16 years is an incredibly long time. Was that with the original parts? Ulka expects a decline in performance after 12 to 18 months, so 16 years without maintenance is almost unbelievable. It proves once again that these pumps can last a very long time. Especially when you maintain them properly. I do have old pumps in machines that I maintain, but the O-ring is replaced every year and the valves every four years or sooner if necessary.
I think the ball is made of this plastic because it meets the desired conditions. Namely that it is reasonably durable, that it is tough (it does not break and no shards break off), it is food safe because it is not porous and, most importantly, it is lightweight (40 milligrams). The ball "hits" the axle 50 times per second (in the USA 60 times per second). There is a pyrex glass ball offered on the internet, but it is more than twice as heavy and it is so hard that it will damage the piston shaft and the spring. So with a glass valve your pump will never last 16 years or come close to that age. So if it is necessary to replace the plastic ball every few years to ensure that your pump lasts that long, it is not such a bad design in my opinion. 😉
Cheers, Marc.
Amazing! Thanks from Brazil 🤜🤛
🙂
From my experience, just replacing just the [2 x 4.5] oring fixed the pump. While 2x4.5 is the size of the oring, the actual measurements are 4.5 mm I.D. x 8.5 mm O.D. x 2 mm cross section. It's about a 1-hour job and requires (Rocket Appartmento) a 7mm socket for many of the screws. The replacement of just this one oring compensates for the wear on the ID by the piston shaft.
Thanks for sharing your experience @Had2Ask. You are absolutely right that the O-ring is usually worn out and is therefore the first part that causes the "leakage" in the pump. But that is certainly not always the only thing. For example: I have overhauled almost new pumps where the rubber valve was stuck. And I have also helped many people where this was also the problem in somewhat older pumps. Both type 4 and type 5 Ulka pumps. Moreover, this is an important valve because it is the seal to warm water. And heat is an absolute no go for these pumps. But leakage of this valve is very rare fortunately. However, the valve being stuck is more common.
The ball in the type 5 pump wears out slowly, but does wear out and will eventually need to be replaced at some point.
My experience with the overhauls is that the 5x2mm O-ring (and 4x2 for the type 4 pump) works perfectly, even during a pressure test. But a 4.5x2mm O-ring will probably work for the type 5 as well because the O-ring is in a pre-formed space in the pump (with a diameter of 8.65mm) where the 4.5mm O-ring is stretched (the shaft of the piston pin is 5mm) and the 5mm O-ring is pressed in (because of the 8.65mm space in the pump). This makes the cross-section of the 5mm O-ring a bit thicker and that of the 4.5mm O-ring a bit thinner. That's why I prefer the 5mm O-ring. But hey, if the 4.5x2mm O-ring works for you, it works for me. After more than a hundred successful revisions, I stick with the 5x2mm O-ring.
The full revision in this video is to show people that you can do a revision yourself. Guys (or girls) who regularly overhaul pumps themselves know that you don't always have to replace all parts. But a do-it-yourselfer who wants to overhaul his pump once (or a company that carries out a repair) wants to be sure that the overhaul is successful. And probably does not want to run the risk of having to take the machine apart again because it was not just the O-ring. And a company does not want a machine to come back to replace a small part (or an entire pump). Then it makes sense to play it safe and replace all three parts. And because the costs of the parts are low, that is easy to do. But again, you are right that in many cases the problems would have been solved by just replacing the O-ring.
May we overhaul many more pumps, because a pump lasts much longer than these wear parts.
Cheers,
Marc.
Hey there, thanks for the video. My EP4FMGW/SP does not have a ball and a spring, is that normal? Everything else is exactly as shown in your video. The coffee machine was working properly but then suddenly stopped. I opened it and saw that there was no ball and spring there. Also there was a small white cap in between the channel of the ball and the other channel with the black round thing (the one you have in your replacement kit). Is that normal?
Hi @SipanTseliker,
Yes, that's absolutely right. The type 4 has an internal valve (the white you see) and therefore does not need a ball. The O-ring is 4 millimeters for type 4 and 5 mm for type 5. The mushroom-shaped rubber valve is the same for types 4 and 5.
Here you can find a picture of the cross-section of a type 4 pump:
photos.app.goo.gl/cYPh1k4heYDRiK8X8
well done very easy to follow.
I am currently fixing the same water pump installed in a steamer/vacuum IBER 2000 and has the same exact pump. From your vid, I noticed that my pump has some missing parts in it unfortunately.
Hi Matthew, Are you sure it's an Ulka type 5? And if so, what parts are you missing?
Xin chào bạn, tôi cũng tìm thấy chiếc bơm này trong máy hấp của hãng Melag. Tôi đang thắc mắc là cái tuabin cũng rất hay phải thay mà tôi chưa hiểu tại sao nó bị hỏng. Tôi thực sự biết ơn nếu được ai đó chỉ dẫn
Hey Marc, I have the same pump that has a great reassure, but the issue with it is after some rest, lets say in the morning, when I switch on the water is not flowing for 2-3 sec, but after it starts and has a great pressure. If I restart the pump then works perfectly. Has this waiting only after some rest. Do you think replacing these o-rings and ball could solve this problem? Thanks
Hi Tamas,
This sounds a lot like the mushroom-shaped rubber valve gets stuck every now and then. Then the pump makes noise and tries to pump but there is no water flow. This often starts after the machine has been turned off for a few hours and continues to happen more and more often until it remains stuck. You can then take the pump apart and loosen the valve, but this is usually a temporary solution and the problem will return. But if the pump remains completely silent, the problem may be electrical.
It is of course difficult to diagnose the problem with 100% certainty from a distance, but I think, based on your story, that with an overhaul set (including the mushroom shaped valve) your pump will work again. But, of course, I can't guarantee it.
Cheers, Marc.
Hello . Unfortunately , in my case, the rubber gasket shows no wear, but there is no pressure! the solenoid is humming, water is passing through the boiler, all boiler outlets have been flushed by disassembling, the required pressure has not appeared... This is the new Gaggia Classic . Only 1.5 years old!!!
Hi Wladimir,
It is very difficult to observe the wear of the O-ring. I would still try to see what happens when you replace the O-ring. You can try an O-ring with size 5x2mm (IDxCS) for this. This is slightly thicker than the original ring and should work well. If the piston does not move and remains stationary, there must be a blockage. This can be in the machine, but it can also be one of the valves of the pump. If you have already replaced the O-ring and the pump does not want to move, this may be because the rubber of the O-ring provides too much friction. A tiny bit of silicone grease will help to start the pump dry. Once the pump is filled with water, this problem will not occur.
According to Ulka, the pump has a lifespan of 12 to 18 months (depending on use) before performance decreases. To ensure that the pump in the machines I maintain continues to function 100%, I replace the O-ring every year.
Good luck with the repair.
Cheers, Marc.
@@MarcSchiedam
Hi , Marc!
The service - life is only 1.5 years... this is just terrible..., I thought 3-5 years... ) It requires food-grade silicone , and I have already ordered it. Thanks! Regards
@WladimirZhel
I agree with you Wladimir. When Ulka reported an expected lifespan of 12 - 18 months, I was shocked too.
Cheers, Marc.
Hi friend, where can I get those spare parts for my coffee maker pump?
Best regards
Hi @Velrod77,
I can send you such a set. Ulka does not supply spare parts, so I put together these sets of 3 pcs myself. They are exactly the same parts as the manufacturer used. Hundreds of pumps have now been overhauled with such a set, so if the pump is otherwise in good condition, an overhaul works fine. I haven't come across these sets with the rubber valve anywhere else, so I don't know if you can get them elsewhere.
If you are interested send me an email, the email address is on the label in this video.
Cheers, Marc.
Greetings. It is possible to make a video on how to replace a pump on the de Longhi EC 201CD.B coffee machine since there is no video of this type anywhere on the web. Thank you
Hi Roberto,
I don't have such a machine in maintenance, so I can't make a video of it in the short term. I can probably get hold of the machine and make a video of it, but that will be long term. So that won't help you now.
Cheers, Marc.
Ok, I think that's the problem I have. I'm going to tell you what happened. The coffee maker is a year and a half old and has hardly been used but I made the mistake of putting pure vinegar in it and leaving it for several hours. then the problems began. first releasing little steam. Finally the piston stopped moving and although the coil can be heard vibrating when it does not move, the piston does not draw water. Based on your video and others, I just disassembled the bomb and each of its parts as in your video and dried everything and put it back together by blowing through all the buildings (this was very difficult because some of them seemed covered). After assembling everything, the piston moved again and worked for about 15 seconds and water came out. It stopped and started again. Then it stopped again and you can again hear the coil vibrating but the piston not moving. Do you think that the white ball and the black rubber have been worn out by the vinegar and that is why the piston does not move because the necessary vacuum is not formed? In the explanation of your video written below you refer to it still making a humming sound. This is what I hear but clarifying that I do not hear the typical noise of the pump working with the piston moving.
The silicone grease is to get the rubber valve out of the spring more easily, not to lubricate the pump.
It's always difficult to give advice from a distance and I don't know which machine it is, but I'll share my thoughts on this. Just a warning in front: I don't know you so don't know what you can and can't do so only do work for which you have the competence or don't do it or ask for help. Only work on the machine when unplugged and allow the machine to cool down before working on it. Everything you do is at your own risk.
It is a well-known problem that after descaling, by flushing the entire machine, blockages occur. Most often in (or just after) the thermoblock or boiler (depending on the machine). Descaling releases pieces of limescale that cause the clogging. I would advise you to disconnect the pipes to and from the thermoblock (or boiler) and descale this part. I ALWAYS descale a thermoblock separately. By the way, I wouldn't do it with vinegar because it only works moderately and leaves a taste in your machine that is difficult to get out. I use citric acid or (sometimes prescribed by the manufacturer) lactic acid. These products work faster and do not leave any taste after rinsing with water a few times. Using vinegar is not wrong, it just doesn't work as well and doesn't taste good. Parts do not wear out due to vinegar.
Assuming there is no over pressure valve in the machine, the following: when there is a blockage in the machine, and your pump is working properly, the pump will come to a halt because there is a huge pressure in the pipes and there can be no water flow. If the pump were not functioning properly, it would not be able to build up such high pressure and therefore continue pumping because the O-ring and/or valves are leaking. So the way I read your story, I first think of a blockage somewhere than worn parts of the pump. But it could be a stuck valve of the pump (the rubber mushroom-shaped valve). It would be very coincidental that this happens right after a decalcification, but it is possible and that problem gives the same characteristics. You can easily check this by detaching the hose at the outlet of the pump (or at the other end of the hose at entrance of the next element after the pump) and checking whether water comes out of it when you test the machine. Before testing take a picture of the wiring and disconnect the wires from the thermoblock (or boiler) if there is no water flowing through it. To be on the safe side, because a thermoblock does have a thermal protection, but without water it quickly gets very hot. A heating element in a boiler should never be heated when the boiler is not filled with water at all.
I once helped someone on a forum to find a blockage in a Philips machine, maybe that will help you. You can find it here: www.home-barista.com/repairs/ulka-ep5-pump-replacement-t87226.html
Some more comments about your post:
-When a pump comes to a standstill, turn off the machine immediately to prevent damage to the pump. A pump quickly gets too hot.
-Steam is probably created because there is stagnant water (no flow) in the thermoblock that will boil.
-When you disassemble the pump, the pressure is off and most of the water is out of the system, so it can take up to 15 seconds for the system is filled up again, the maximum pressure is reached and therefore the pump comes to a stop.
-With "humming sound" I mean the coil is working so the pump "wants" to work but is not building up pressure. If there is an electric problem, the pump is silent and is beyond repair.
These are my thoughts on this with the information I got from your post. But again, it's hard to give advice from a distance, so I could be completely wrong. Figuring out where things are going wrong step by step is the best way to figure out what the problem is.
Good luck with it.
Cheers,
Marc.
Hello Marc, I greatly appreciate and appreciate your comments. I tell you that I was finally able to repair the machine by changing the oring with a new one of the same size. Evidently the vinegar and the passage of 2 years of use caused the original oring to wear out as it seemed somewhat sticky to the touch, very different from the completely smooth and shiny new one. I understand that what happened was several things at the same time: using pure vinegar for several nights caused clogs in the boiler and degraded the oring. The white ball and black mushroom-shaped rubber retainer are in good condition. Once I was able to change the oring, I found that the pump revived, before it only vibrated but the piston did not move, I understand that with the new oring it had sufficient pressure again. But the boiler was clogged in the inlet and outlet ducts, as well as the valve/relay that allows water to pass through to generate pressure for the milk. I uncovered the inlet and outlet ducts, blew hard to unclog them. The water began to flow. Then I proceeded to descale, but this time, as many recommend in these parts, with the vinegar diluted by half with water. After several hours, everything returned almost to normal, let's say 90%. I still need to do a deep descaling with citric acid, which I will do in the next few days, but I already have coffee with milk again for breakfast. Thank you very much for your video, it was very useful for me to understand the problem of the worn oring!!@@MarcSchiedam
Hi Marcelo,
Thank you very much for your response and sharing the results of your work. I appreciate that a lot. 👍 Problems are often a combination of different things. In the event of a (partial) blockage, the pump has to work harder, the water flow is slower, more lime enters the system, which causes more blockage, etc. The O-ring must have been stuck in your pump to make it stop. If the O-ring only leaks, the pump will continue to run because the water is "pumped" back and forth in the pump. So you see, sometimes you encounter surprising problems. By the way, I replace the O-ring of the pump on the machines I maintain every year during major cleaning and descaling.
But good to hear that it turned out well for you. May you enjoy your coffee for a long time.
Cheers, Marc.
Hello! Where were you buy this parts? In my country (Poland) i can only buy rubber o-ring and a plastic ball.
Hi piotr @piotrkowalcyk2363,
Because I get this question often, I put the set on eBay: www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130
If you want to order parts separately, you can send me an email and we will see if we can arrange something. My email address is marc.schiedamATgmailDOTcom (this is also mentioned in the details of my RUclips channel).
Cheers, Marc.
Does this work for Breville Barista Express EP5FM pump? It's just EP5FM no extra letters or numbers.
Yes, that works exactly the same for the EP5FM.
Your store doesnt appear to be available for shipping to canada, big bummer. 👎@@MarcSchiedam
I don't have a store but try to help people repair their machines. If you want me to help you with an overhaul set, send me an email and we will work something out. My mail address is in the info of my/this RUclips channel. And also on the label in the video.
I have previously helped someone from Canada and shipped to Toronto Ontario.
What do you use on the brush to lubricate?
That's food grade silicone grease.
Impecable... gracias..desde Argentina...la ciudad de Pigüé..
De nada, disfruté haciéndolo. Gracias por tu mensaje. 👍
Saludos cordiales desde Schiedam, Holanda.
🍻 Marc.
From where did you get the repair set ?
Thank you.
Hello Tamer,
I put the set together myself. To help people I put the set on eBay.
www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130
If you want the set and live outside Europe, please send me an email, the email address is in the information of this RUclips channel.
I wish you a nice day.
Cheers,
Marc.
How can I buy your ex5 3ps overhaul kit?
Hi @toddjones2084, If you send me an email I will help you. My email address is in the information of this RUclips channel and on the label in the video.
Ok grazie Marc.
👍
Bom dia , como posso comprar o kit de reparação da bomba? Muito obrigado pela partilha de conhecimentos
Olá Marcio,
Eu não falo português, então isso é feito através do Google Translate, então peço desculpas se minha mensagem não estiver totalmente correta.
Tudo o que você pede (também via eBay) é possível. Mas para discutir isso pode ser mais útil se você entrar em contato comigo por e-mail. Meu endereço de e-mail está incluído nas informações do meu canal no RUclips.
Obrigado Atenciosamente,
Marc.
@@MarcSchiedam obrigado pela resposta. Ja enviei mensagem pelo ebay.
Hi Marc, thanks for your videos! I would like to buy some repair kits. Can’t find your email on your RUclips info. I understand you have an eBay account?
ich suche auch nach Teilen für die Ceme dge-Pumpe aus Tchibo. Wo kann ich die Teile kaufen?
Vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht.
Soweit ich weiß, kann eine Ceme-Pumpe nicht überholt werden. Daher kenne ich keinen Lieferanten für Ceme-Teile. Ich weiß auch nicht, ob die Teile mit denen der Ulka-Pumpe übereinstimmen.
Und wenn man die Pumpe öffnen kann, kann ich die Teile für eine Ulka-Pumpe liefern, weiß aber nicht, ob sie in eine Ceme-Pumpe passen.
Gruß,
Marc.
Very nice video, where can I order spares seal and a ball.? Thks and rgds
@mladenm.3696
Hi, I can supply you with the set of 3 pcs (as shown in the video). Or if you are just looking for the O-ring and the ball, I can also supply that, but you can also find such a set of 2 pcs elsewhere, on eBay for example. When you buy on eBay, please note that it is a set with a plastic ball and NOT a glass ball. A glass ball will damage your pump.
If you want me to help you, just send me an email. My email address is in this channel's information and on the label in the video.
Cheers,
Marc.
@@MarcSchiedam
Have really odd problem with Delonghi coffee machine, would like to get your opinion.thks
@mladenm.3696
Is the problem pump related?
I am not a DeLonghi expert, but I will try to help you.
Hola buenas donde concigo la reparacion
Hola Juan Carlos @user-em3ct7cu1k. En que país vives?
Hi, I don't see your repair set on Ebay anymore 😲
Hi @paquitoperez2116 No, that's right. I'm sorry but it was a bit too popular so I got into trouble with eBay as an individual for selling too much.
But I do want to help you, if you send me an email I will help you further. My email address is on the label in the video
Buenas, dónde de pueden comprar esas piezas? Gracias
@iar3270
Hola, si quieres un kit así te lo puedo proporcionar. En ese caso puedes enviarme un correo electrónico. Mi dirección de correo electrónico está en la información de este canal de RUclips y en la etiqueta del set del vídeo. Entonces te ayudaré más.
Hello, if you want such a kit I can provide it to you. In that case you can send me an email. My email address is in the information of this RUclips channel and on the kit label on the video. Then I will help you further.
Thank's
You are welcome. 👍
I have replied to your email. Cheers.
gracias.
You're welcome. (de nada?)🙂
¿Dónde puedo comprar el kit? soy de México
Hi, I can help you. Please contact me via email, my email address is in the information for this RUclips channel.
Hola, puedo ayudarte. Por favor contácteme por correo electrónico, mi dirección de correo electrónico se encuentra en la información de este canal de RUclips.
Silicone grease on the brush?
Yes, this makes it easier to remove the rubber from the spring.
It wouldn’t last long after overhauling , just a few months. Better to replace the whole pump, that is cost-effective solution, from my experience
That is a persistent story, but complete nonsense. Because what do you think will go wrong in those "few months"? Of course, once a pump has suffered damage due to overload or overheating, you cannot repair it with an overhaul kit. But if the coil is in good condition, after an overhaul you will have a pump that is just as good as a new one. And it lasts just as long, if not longer. Ulka notes that a pump's performance will decrease after 12 to 18 months. And I have machines in maintenance with a pump that is more than 15 years old that work as if they were new (I test them for pressure). In those 15 years, parts worth €19.50 (sales price) have been replaced. If you maintain these pumps properly, they will last a very long time. So I don't know what exactly your "experience" is worth, but it certainly doesn't match mine. But hey, if you want to buy a new pump every few years, it is something that everyone can decide for themselves, but it is certainly not cost-effective. Moreover, before you replace the pump after a few years, it has probably not worked 100% for a while.
@@MarcSchiedam sorry For not making it clear. Whether it’s cost-effective or not will depend on the price and quality of these parts. I purchased the overhaul kit for 4 usd and my ulka pump built up pressure again in just 2 months and then it failed. So I decided to replace with a new ulka pump for 10 usd and it has been working smoothly for 1 year and still in good condition. That is my experience and I take it as cost effective , hope it makes sense
That's what I thought. Your response " _It wouldn't last long after overhauling, just a few months._ " is not correct. I'm sorry that your project was not successful, but this could be for various reasons. With all due respect, it is impossible for you to say on that basis that overhauling a pump wouldn't last. My experience is based on more than 200 overhauled pumps.
For my curiosity:
Do you have a link to the overhaul kit you used? And which part of the pump "failed" after two months?
obrigado
🙂
tanx
👍
Чудо мастер 😢
😕
а где это купить?
Здравствуйте Сергей Назаров!
Я продаю наборы в Европе через eBay, но, к сожалению, не знаю адреса в России. Извини.
Спасибо понял .
thanks
👍 Cheers, @AzkaTiko.