I participate in the machining of these jl audio speakers and its an amazing feeling reading all this positivity. We strive for excellence and precision
You strive for excellence? That's hilarious. Pop quiz... Is the use of Kapton voice coils because of: A: "Performance"? B: Because it is cheap and does not make noise when it rubs? If you work for JL, you will know first hand why it is called Jail Audio within the industry. What a rip-off company. I have repaired and rebuilt more Jail Audio W6 and W7 drivers than I care to count, and I'm far from impressed by that 25+ old design.
It's real easy to get caught up in looks. A lot of people whether they admit or not shop for magnet size and a million watts. I used to be that kid. Now it's all about efficiency and sound quality. Keep up the good content.
Yes thats what its always been about this whole time, actual sound quailty WHILE still trying to maintain built quality, that takes more engineering, research, and decades of experience, and thus more 🧀, its what separates the el cheapos from the Deep bros.
@@alexloeragallos bigger beefier magnets usually means it can handle more power. However I've seen smaller magnet subs have just as much spl dbs as those big magnet subs. So sometimes it's just a gimmick, you know bigger is better. The most important factor seems to be is how efficient is the subwoofer and not necessarily magnet size.
Been running JL Audio since the W6 18” and 500/1 debuted. Still my favorite as far as reliability and efficiency. They cost, but so do the finer things in life!!
@@annihilationindustries1990Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? JL Audio, CT Sounds or DD Audio? I hope someone will reply because i want to buy one of those before christmas'
My JL Audio 500/1 has been running now for 2 decades efficiently in many different vehicles on multiple brands of subs. I have even tried other 500 watt brands of amps and always end up back to this one!#JLAudio#🔊❤️#Slash500/1#Truth#👑
Respect. I had the first line of the 15”JL WO’s / two of them in a 3 cube wedge sealed box. I had the loudest and cleanest system per watt. My amp was a California 4 channel and I bridged ch 1-2 for one sub and bridged ch 3-4 for the other sub. Even tho it was not supposed to be bridged, it gave me years of enjoyment all through high school back in late 90’s-2000’s / haha, now I’m remembering that I used a battery operated Walkman CD player with a cassette adapter to play my music!! I had then and I still have tons of respect for JL Audio ! Thank you for posting this video and keeping it out there on your channel! Peace!
Preach it brother! I've been a JL customer for 25 years. I currently have 4 12w6v3's. Sound quality is amazing and they will get very loud with the right setup.
Thanks for being honest. Everyone knows if you got JL Audio, you got real quality sound. JL has always advertised real sound and power. Never bragged on over wattage advertising. Just real power with little space so you don't have to tear up your ride apart. Their subs sound amazing even in sealed boxes.
Being honest? Are you kidding? Do you know why JL uses those shitty Kapton voice coils? It has shit all to do with performance. They retain heat and lack rigidity. They use them because the advantage is as follows. They are dirt cheap, and they don't make noise when they rub. Any industry insider and builder out there with half a brain, are laughing their ass off every time they see people waste their money on JL. Go and see what a guy like Stereo Integrity can do for you if you pay him the same money. You'll be shocked.
Id disagree. You pay over what you get. JL’s for their price is ridiculously high, and there are a lot of other products that are cheaper, that deliver just as it even better sound quality. You’re basically paying for the name if you’re buying JL’s.
Jl did pay for the design patients though I’ll give them a lil that But yeah I will totally smash a pair a W sixes with some power acoustic Gothic’s any day for less than A quarter of that price
People always bring up price to justify disliking JL audio subs. My first JL audio sub was a 10w6v2 and it’s still one of my favorite subs even till this day. I’m not a number chaser but the only time I’ve heard a JL sub sound bad was due to poor install or user error. The equipment just last, I have a 300/4 and 500/1 gen one still in working condition.
There is a big difference between brands these days and always has been in the old days. The original w6’s even by today’s standards they are excellent subwoofer. Not rated to take a great deal of power but you would be hard pressed to find a driver that is capable of their output with just 300w rms each and able to go as low as they do in frequency. The original w6’s proved to be some of the lowest hitting subs in sealed enclosures. Today many subs and amps are designed by a brand but then out sourced to be built in China. This makes a tremendous difference in quality in the final product and many times doesn’t always translate into a full 100% copy of the design the brand was going for. For example, Dayton makes the Max x but to keep cost down they have them built in China. The subs actually do not have a 2.5” coil like advertised but instead have a 2.38” coil. The gluing that is done to the cone to coil is actually pretty mediocre quality, I have dissected a 15 and laughed at how terrible it was done! Now I have to build a sub off the motor for it not to go to waste. JL audio built its subs right in Florida for the most part and the quality shows it! They have some products that are out sourced but for the most part the subwoofer lines are built right in the USA.
As I stated they do out source lower lines. Quality control is great for finding duds but it’s never gonna fix the use of inferior quality parts, adhesives, and building techniques.
I heard two JL Audio 10s in a Chevy Cavalier back in @'97 on a small Alpine V12 amp and it was shaking my vehicle from the opposite side of a KFC building. Went to go see it for myself and it happen to be a buddy of mine. Stock GM radio, 2 JL 10s, old medium size Alpine V12 amp and that was it. Stuff was just laid in the trunk and quaked!!! It doesn't take much y'all but quality does make a difference.
People who hate on JL are clueless. They either can’t afford it or haven’t heard their stuff. Once you have heard them you won’t want to go back to anything else. Currently inning two 13w7s and I love them
A lot of people like to talk smack about JL because they're more expensive than other high end subs but what most fail to realize is that the magnet/motor structure is unique and appropriately sized for the driver size. If you put a 10W7, 12W7, and 13W7 next to each other, you'll see that the motor gets bigger as the driver size increases, and that's because JL put the time and R&D budget into designing the right size motor for each driver. If you do the same thing with another "super" sub like a Sundown something something, you'll see a 10 and a 12 with these ridiculously large motors, a 15 with a large motor, and an 18 with what looks like a small motor.... because they all use the same motor. This obviously helps cut down on cost, but what is the right motor size with respect to the driver size? Did they engineer the sub using the 12 as a template, and then scale it up to the 15 and 18, or did they design it around the 18 and scale it down for the 12? Is the Sundown a lot louder and a lot cheaper? Definitely. Does it sound as good as the JL? Not in a million years. When you buy a 12W6 or 12W7 from JL, you know you're getting a sub that was built from the ground up to be the best 12 it can be. You get what you pay for with JL, which is why they'll always be my sub of choice.
Man.....Whatever you were explaining..... Is the Gospel!!!!! When I moved to Detroit in 1998, a "D" Boy (you know what he was") had 3 JL 12's in a sealed box facing the rear with the the deck lid open, (it was in an 80 something Grand National) with the trunk facing away from the building. The enclosure was the approximately size that you have there w/o the port section. It actually had the brick wall of the building in front of the car vibrating as well as the windows in the laundry mat across the street behind the car flexing. JL Sub Woofers are NOT to be taken lightly at all !!!!! Yes another excellent video telling it like it is. Thanks again Man and keep killin' em'.
I currently have tow 12w3v2 in a box running on about 400w rms and it puts systems with more wattage to shame. I’ve had a lot of people ask me what I’m running and they don’t believe me. JL audio is really efficient and sound quality is impeccable.
Awesome video! I had TWO W7 12's and now I have a single 12W6 in the JL H.O. prefab box and it is astonishing. I was just at a lowrider show and people were like, "that's ONE 12" on 600 watts?!?!?" YEP. For what I can see, the 12W6 is just a scaled-down version of the 12W7. 33% down. Pound for pound, it may be one of the best JL subs ever!
@@tonywarren2549 for my application, the w6 works. It is lighter and requires less power to utilize its entire envelope. Both are amazing drivers though.
I've owned both and the w6 for price and for what it is, is an all around great sub. Personally, I prefer the w7. Both are musical af, in the right box you will hear sounds most subs just can't reproduce. My next setup will be focused on sq however, using w7s it's also going to give me the slam I want
@@tonywarren2549 to me w7 is just a better sounding subwoofer. W6 is good but not better than W7. I am not just talking about output either, W7 is much cleaner and sounds better to my ears.
I love this guys enclosures. He makes it look easy. Box is just as, if not more important then the subs being that the subs are decent not half burned up and are mechanically sound.
Thanks for the info, ive noticed the only ones that hate on JL Audio can't afford JL Audio, plain and simple if JL was more affordable no one would purchase anything else!
I have a JL W6v2 that I bought a long time ago.. maybe 10 or 12 years ago. It’s been in its ported box in the closet for probably 7 years. I can’t bring myself to part with it since I traded my car for a truck. When I had it hooked up, people couldn’t believe it was only a single 12. That sub is amazing.
1994, two JL W4s pushed by 2 hccas, .5 stable. The club owner would come outside to ask me to turn it down. Never got a noise violation and won 2 competitions. 149-150db daily. All stock btw
Hello, dear friend. Thank you for the informative and beautiful clip. Thank you for guiding me to make a ported enclosure for 2 subwoofers 8w3v3 jl audio. Thank you.
i had my w6v3 in a 2.5 cube box. i think it hit lower notes better and was louder overall than the jl spec box. i did it cuz the box i had was too big to remove from the trunk so i just swapped out the sub
Right on, brother. I'm 44 and still using A/D/S/ (Massachusetts-made), PPI Art Series (Arizona), and JL Audio 12" subs since the mid-90's lol. This shit STILL rules to this day. Boi, gunna LOOK NIIICE, boi!
I habe a single jl w3v3 4 and its sounds so great with electronic music. I switched from a skar sub and had no idea how much music was in my music unitl i switched to JL
Have 2 jlw6V2 12S from 2003. Best subs ever in my opinion. Ann's that's on a jl 1000/1......installed new surround about 2 years ago for $20 they hit just as hard as in 2003. My new alpine type x come pretty close to the sql of my jls
i have owned the 12w6v2 ,12w3's, and 12w0's. growing up i loved JL audio and all i ever ran in my rigs. i have respect for JL, they are the godfather of modern day spl. that being said the sundown sa12v1 or v2 will kill all of them i listed. sundown is for real and there coming for the crown, like it or not. i love your content MB. keep doing what you do for us and thank you for your time.
You talking about 2 whole diff subs tho! Sundown is a Spl sub an not great for just listening if you will. Get a new JL W6v3 or w7 an the dub only needs half the power plus half the space💯 you right Sundown beating the block! But can’t never be fooled what 3 JLs can do with only 1500 true what’s. When it takes sundown all the 1500. But just throwing that out there tho but glad you mentioned you ran them all that time cause they are the best sounding subs
I still have my 8.3 microsub box , sold the 8W6's that were I'm there but man they beat for some 8"s . Rated for 600RMS but I ran a memphis 1000d @ 1ohm pumping 1100wrms and they took it all day , twice over....two 10w3s in a co workers tacoma down firing in a extended cab truck got me hooked on JL Audio
reminds me of my old Hollywood Excursions. their motor, was very small by todays standards. they were 12's rated for 225 wrms per subwoofer. they were in 2.5 cubes sealed, ran by a 900 watt amp, from the trunk. and it was so loud that you were in pain while you were in the back seat. you wanted out. so yeah. there's a definite science to the motors here. as well as enclosure and type of vehicle.
@@curtg5654 man youre trippin type r's are savage af. you can throw all kinds of power at them. alpine does compare. if I had to pick type r or a w3 Im sorry Id pick type r in a heart beat. and Ive owned w3's so dont get me wrong, theyre dope subs for sure. but cannot knock the type r's man
Good vid bro very knowledgeable because alot of us bassheads get caught up with the wrong idea about how some of this works thanks for the content keep it up
After reading some of the comments, I see their is a lot of JL hate in here. It's mostly because ignorant minds. JL is the top ranked for all around equipment for daily use across all vehicle platforms without needing massive amounts of power and current. When installed properly, ran properly, tuned properly, you will never have an issue. User error made JL haters.
@@mrjetlife27 agreed! And JL is just more on the tech side of it. Knowing how new cars are with the sensitive electrical they have, soon people will be paying JL money for long term in these new cars. Look what Steve Meade had to do just to run his amps in his Caddy. It’s tech that takes over today. But really, I could do a build with anything and come up with something impressive. All on the installer.
I agree JL audio equipment just works, you know what you are getting and the results are always repeatable. You have to work hard to make a JL audio subs sound bad.
I had some w0 way back and they never seemed loud they got to say 125db and no matter how much power or what I changed they wouldn't get louder but on the good side they never blew up
To me the W6 is one of the best sql subwoofers of all times and spectacular balance of grace and sheer output I love my W7s and wanted to run them but u didn’t wana build me a box for it in this build lol so I went with 10” L7 q-class. Not to mention my 13w7 have and shelf expiration date due to the cheap foam surrounds and which are built to fail And don’t have much of a Uv treatment as is …
Back in like '05 I had 3 JL 10s in a jl sealed box with an old Alpine amp think it was about 500 watts I remember that sounding extremely good. It was in the trunk of a 01 Impala.
I’m patiently waiting for the new kicker solo x’s to drop to replace my old 12” solo x that the tinsel lead ripped out long ago. My old rare Rockford type rf x7 is wanting to push something big. First box I’ve ever built and took pride in was for that sub, 3.25 cu ft tuned to 32. Still have the box after a decade since running a real system. Currently prepping a more sq setup atm and delving into the dsp world. I almost pulled the trigger on a kicker l7 q class but decided to wait for the solo x. Love the videos man, keep em coming!
I can’t wait till he reviews the L7 Q class 15s!! With a ported box for two of them Speaking it into existence! and if he ever reviews the new solo X’s that’s coming out in the 15” version in a dual 15 box im going to lose it
I recently bought 2 L7Q 12’s, and was extremely disappointed. I’m a big Kicker supporter/fan and I’ve only had L7’s in my last 4 vehicles. Looking back I should’ve gone with 10’s, as the parameters between Q-10’s and 12’s are extremely similar, and I was using 1.5 cubic feet per sub(sealed). IMO L7R or L7S is the way to go overall when you weigh the scale and look at the specifications. That being said, I had 2 Solo X 12’s, and will HAVE to buy the new ones when they come out!!!
I've owned a bunch of JL stuff over the years and would agree that JL makes great products, BUT you'll need to refinance your home, sell off a kidney or some such in order to buy an amp and a couple subs.
Yeah true. Same with jbl home theater or dj speakers. They are expensive but like you said you get what you paid for. Scratches seem smooth by ear of sound.
Yeah true. Same with jbl home theater or dj speakers. They are expensive but like you said you get what you paid for. Scratches seem smooth by ear of sound.
I'm running 4 10w6s on 2 rockford 1200s in a 3 cubic sealed box in my 19 f150 and I haven't heard a better underseat setup yet. They only need .55 cubes per sub so it's a little over spec and plays surprisingly low.
Many can get loud but few get loud while being an SQ sub. JL sound so nice in the proper box with proper amp. Sure, others can sound just as good and get even louder but at that point they cost same as JL. Like sundown x series etc
The JL 13W7 is one heck of a sound quality monster and the bass is so deep and rich. I fell in love with the Fi Neo 3.5 12 inch too. Fi does make the baddest meanest subs for both SPL and SQ, and anywhere in between.
Yep I had 2 13.5 w7s and I upgraded for spl to some neo 3.5 18s, the w7s sound alot cleaner but the fi sound pretty good, only thing is they have no backplate venting so they make alot of mechanical noise
I'm running 4- 13W7AE-D1.5 and 4 jl audio rd1500 amps in a astro van it's really the best sounding stereo I have ever heard in my life I set off my neighbors car alarm on the next block not kidding
IN 1995 I had a 94 Blazer with 4 15inch JL Audio subs running off 2 PP Pro Mos 50's walled sealed boxed and still had the back seat. Thing would do low to mid 150's db on music not burbs and still finish top 5 in SQ. First 2 numbers I look at when buying stuff is signal to noise and efficiency. So what if your sub can handle 3000 watts if it's s/n is only 86db when this other brand only handles 1500 but has a s/n of 96 db. I'm taking the 96 db one all day. I don't know how JL tech support is today but at the time my installer called JL about box design for best results and they called back the next day with a complete design with all cut lengths and angles.
I seen your other video about clean bass and running more watts than rms ratings. I have A rockford T1000-1BD pushing 2 JL 12 TW3's rated at 400 rms each wired to 1 ohm. Would that be over powering the subs? Or would it produce clean bass? Custom sealed enclosure made by MTI Acoustics. 1.7 cubic feet. Should I wire it down to 2 ohms or keep at 1 ohm?
I have all jl Audio system front doors C3 650 and rear doors C5 650X powered by the XD400/4V2 a CS112TG-TW3 powered with the XD3001V2 my second CS112TG-TW3 powered with the XD500/3V2 powering another set of C3 650 sound quality is amazing
I had two Jl audio w3 v2s running on a Rockford fosgate p1000 BD and even though those woofer's were only rated 300 watts RMS they both would take that thousand Watts with no problem whatsoever the pole piece wasn't even ventilated on the subs that I had and I never felt the cone get hot I've ran them in a sealed box I ran them in a custom ported box tuned to about 35 Hertz and they never missed a beat I ended up upgrading to some different subs not going to mention the name cuz I don't want to bash nothing but by looking at the specs on the subs I replaced it with you would have thought it would have been louder given the same power but honestly I didn't notice a difference in loudness what I did notice was the sound quality difference and those Jl audios even though they were in a different class they were actually considered to be lower quality than what I replaced them with those new subs could not beat the sound quality the other ones played a little lower but the punch that the jls had was not there
I have 2 jl w6v3 both in a separate h.o box they come in with the jl 1200/1 hd.. but want a custom sealed box.. with 1.3 cube airspace per sub.. would love for you to build me a custom box.. I like your work and also the knowledge on jl.
Hey MB I'm curious what your thoughts are of the Memphis VIV14" subwoofer.. 7.5" voice coil technology that lets it play flat with high power. I have seen it compared to a JL Audio 13W7. It looks and sounds pretty promising.
after being out of the car audio game for 15 years. I jumped back in. I have a little more money than I use to. I had limited in space in my 09f350. this shit hits harder than my old w15. crazy clean and loud. the TW3 is for real.
I know it's not JL audio quality but what's your opinion on the budget friendly single 12" Sundown E12 in a down4sound profab box? Is that box the proper size for that speaker? I know it's a budget set up but I'm curious because they say that box was designed specifically for the Sundown E12. I ask because I know how you preach how important box is.
I’ve been running Alpine since like 2003, and vouching/spending on them ever since. Always been an SQ vs SPL fan, but still like my shit to hit, and these are many of the same reasons why I’ll always run Alpine, would like to get your opinion on them, especially the Type-X and the new F#1 gear.
I've heard 2 x 10" Alpine type S in sealed separate truck enclosures about a month ago and I must say I was very impressed. In was ran by Alpine 5 channel amp. The entire system was alpine and the sound quality was amazing.
@@lamar5021 ya that’s what got me stuck on Alpine for so long, and why I think it’s the perfect brand for beginners/intermediate car audio fans. It held me for almost 20 years, same with kicker (except they don’t make headunits) but ya I run Orion now, never going back! #OrionArmy 🦾💀🔊
I used to be a JL fan boy, I started with the w5 duel 8ohm in box built to specs( it took up the whole trunk in a 90 cougar) then I got the w3's when they hit the market in 99 00, anyway over the years you collect car audio, so in the early 00 I had two 15in kicker comp (dvc) but sill collected JL when I found a good deal. Around 2012 I sold my park ave, and sold my 15's and just left car audio alone, but still have my wall of amps ( ppi a 600.2 mtx jack hammer eclipse xa1000 first gen punch 150hd just to name a few, I'm looking at the wall as I'm writing so I'm trying not to leave my favorite's out, like my very first real amp kenwood 921, but back to JL so last year I decided to build another vehicle and I took out two JL 10w0 boxes, one was a triple stack and the other duel. Both boxes had the JL grills ( the metal grills with the rubber u push in) they've been in the garage for 10plus years and when I put power to them the surrounds blew off all 5 speaker's, I call JL and they basically said the grills had a design flaw that condensation from the elements would build up around the metal and soaked up by the foam surrounds, but unfortunately they don't carry the surrounds for that gen any more and basicly go f myself. I had two 12in p1 that I had to use and they were in the garage two but they were fine, hell I got two 10 in Optimus pro in kicker boxes that have cloth surroundings, no damage. Anyway I came across two 12in l7 in separate boxes for two hundred used and honestly I don't think I'll ever go back to Jl audio, or a round sub again
Coming from the view point of someone who’s studying how to build subwoofers from the ground up, ya JL is a good brand BUT there’s no magic to them it’s just that there price point on the “higher end “ subwoofers is so much that people who can afford the higher and stuff already have the batteries and aftermarket alternators to power there equipment to the point that the subwoofers they use really don’t matter. And those that can afford to put real money into there systems tend to be older/more mature and know how to use the equipment they have. On the flip side some of those people that can afford higher end equipment tend to be Snobs about it and tend to talk down on less expensive brands and the people who use them. In all reality name brand equipment is just that a NAME BRAND and the more overhead they have the more there equipment will cost and most subs are either made in China or the parts come from China and are just assembled over here. A 1200$ JL is worth about 100$ in parts it’s the labor to put them together that costs $$. Also the fact that JL warranty’s or lack of will keep only those who can keep forking out the $$ to keep buying the same equipment. So In the end as long as you have a proper power supply the amps and drivers you use should not fail unless seriously abused. Motor,coils,leads,spiders,CA glue,cone,surround and terminals=a speaker,driver,woofer,subwoofer
100% agree, if you truly look into JL they done even own there patents and all there stuff is made overseas in the same build houses that makes the other so-called cheaper brands. Facts, go check them out
You could never build a w7 for $100 or any sub on par for that matter as the motor alone is easily gonna cost $400 plus. I’ve been building subs by hand for years and the parts on a w7 (except the coil) are not available. They are not off the shelf parts like a company like sundown or skar will use. All those others brands that cost significantly less are not assembling their product either. They are out sourcing it to China and in many cases the quality of the build is not even close and they use inferior materials. Brand hype definitely exists and not always do you get what you pay for. In some cases though, you actually do! Look at all the amplifiers today, majority are built over seas and is why it cost 15 cents or less a watt. Hand built USA made amps that cost over a $1 watt the sound quality was incredible, the quality was amazing, and you could pass those amps down to your grand kids 😂
I participate in the machining of these jl audio speakers and its an amazing feeling reading all this positivity. We strive for excellence and precision
I've been waiting for a good while to be able to "employee purchase" from my workplace lol. Are you guys really that back ordered?
You participate? So you don't get paid to make JL audio speakers?
You strive for excellence? That's hilarious.
Pop quiz...
Is the use of Kapton voice coils because of:
A: "Performance"?
B: Because it is cheap and does not make noise when it rubs?
If you work for JL, you will know first hand why it is called Jail Audio within the industry.
What a rip-off company.
I have repaired and rebuilt more Jail Audio W6 and W7 drivers than I care to count, and I'm far from impressed by that 25+ old design.
@@AB-80X What do you do exactly and how does JL get people to buy when they are that bad? And what would you recommend better than JL?
@@AB-80X I'd like to hear your thoughts on the question someone used to reply to your comment also. Don't forget about us. 👍🏾
It's real easy to get caught up in looks. A lot of people whether they admit or not shop for magnet size and a million watts. I used to be that kid. Now it's all about efficiency and sound quality. Keep up the good content.
Yes thats what its always been about this whole time, actual sound quailty WHILE still trying to maintain built quality, that takes more engineering, research, and decades of experience, and thus more 🧀, its what separates the el cheapos from the Deep bros.
I am very confused..i always think that a big beefy sub with beefy magnet was the real deal
@@alexloeragallos bigger beefier magnets usually means it can handle more power. However I've seen smaller magnet subs have just as much spl dbs as those big magnet subs. So sometimes it's just a gimmick, you know bigger is better. The most important factor seems to be is how efficient is the subwoofer and not necessarily magnet size.
@@JAM-ur8tj exactly..ive been learing alot with this channel
Yes me too
Been running JL Audio since the W6 18” and 500/1 debuted. Still my favorite as far as reliability and efficiency. They cost, but so do the finer things in life!!
Trust me, broaden your horizon. It's far from what it is cranked up to be.
@@AB-80X 100 % I guarantee you that I can slap kicker and jl in there face with 20 other brands for cheaper
@@annihilationindustries1990Which brand has cleaner and softer thumping bass? JL Audio, CT Sounds or DD Audio? I hope someone will reply because i want to buy one of those before christmas'
You can easily put SPL JL Audio, but that's not what they were designed for. They are more SQ oriented and honestly configured for lower wattage.
My JL Audio 500/1 has been running now for 2 decades efficiently in many different vehicles on multiple brands of subs. I have even tried other 500 watt brands of amps and always end up back to this one!#JLAudio#🔊❤️#Slash500/1#Truth#👑
Respect. I had the first line of the 15”JL WO’s / two of them in a 3 cube wedge sealed box. I had the loudest and cleanest system per watt. My amp was a California 4 channel and I bridged ch 1-2 for one sub and bridged ch 3-4 for the other sub. Even tho it was not supposed to be bridged, it gave me years of enjoyment all through high school back in late 90’s-2000’s / haha, now I’m remembering that I used a battery operated Walkman CD player with a cassette adapter to play my music!!
I had then and I still have tons of respect for JL Audio ! Thank you for posting this video and keeping it out there on your channel!
Peace!
Preach it brother! I've been a JL customer for 25 years. I currently have 4 12w6v3's. Sound quality is amazing and they will get very loud with the right setup.
had my w7 since early 2000s. sent back once for a surround refoam. still running strong. love it. solid ass sub
Thanks for being honest. Everyone knows if you got JL Audio, you got real quality sound. JL has always advertised real sound and power. Never bragged on over wattage advertising. Just real power with little space so you don't have to tear up your ride apart. Their subs sound amazing even in sealed boxes.
Being honest? Are you kidding?
Do you know why JL uses those shitty Kapton voice coils? It has shit all to do with performance. They retain heat and lack rigidity. They use them because the advantage is as follows. They are dirt cheap, and they don't make noise when they rub.
Any industry insider and builder out there with half a brain, are laughing their ass off every time they see people waste their money on JL. Go and see what a guy like Stereo Integrity can do for you if you pay him the same money. You'll be shocked.
An FI Btl also sounds great in a well made sealed box with good power. Enclosure is priority then good clean power, then woofer. IMO.
Sealed box is the way to go with JL.
I’ve been running JL SINCE THE 90’s you get what you pay for. The quality has always been their.
Id disagree. You pay over what you get. JL’s for their price is ridiculously high, and there are a lot of other products that are cheaper, that deliver just as it even better sound quality. You’re basically paying for the name if you’re buying JL’s.
Jl did pay for the design patients though I’ll give them a lil that But yeah I will totally smash a pair a W sixes with some power acoustic Gothic’s any day for less than A quarter of that price
@@fuckgoogleandyou8779 not in SQ you won't....
I remember when a combination of 3 JL Audio subs, MB Quart, Precision Power, and Audio Control ruled in SQ!
Back when they were black and red and could be purchased with a clear plexi glass bottom. That was a great era
Damn MB you dropping videos like nolimit albums, good stuff though
Can’t stop, won’t stop
😂😂😂 Righttttt
Make em say uuuuuhhhh
Because he's bout it, bout it!😂😂😂😂
JL makes really good stuff, and their subs are great. Even a W0 outperforms other subs at twice the power. They just are expensive.
I’m lovin how much you’ve been posting lately! Big ups bro respect ✊
People always bring up price to justify disliking JL audio subs. My first JL audio sub was a 10w6v2 and it’s still one of my favorite subs even till this day. I’m not a number chaser but the only time I’ve heard a JL sub sound bad was due to poor install or user error. The equipment just last, I have a 300/4 and 500/1 gen one still in working condition.
There is a big difference between brands these days and always has been in the old days. The original w6’s even by today’s standards they are excellent subwoofer. Not rated to take a great deal of power but you would be hard pressed to find a driver that is capable of their output with just 300w rms each and able to go as low as they do in frequency. The original w6’s proved to be some of the lowest hitting subs in sealed enclosures. Today many subs and amps are designed by a brand but then out sourced to be built in China. This makes a tremendous difference in quality in the final product and many times doesn’t always translate into a full 100% copy of the design the brand was going for. For example, Dayton makes the Max x but to keep cost down they have them built in China. The subs actually do not have a 2.5” coil like advertised but instead have a 2.38” coil. The gluing that is done to the cone to coil is actually pretty mediocre quality, I have dissected a 15 and laughed at how terrible it was done! Now I have to build a sub off the motor for it not to go to waste. JL audio built its subs right in Florida for the most part and the quality shows it! They have some products that are out sourced but for the most part the subwoofer lines are built right in the USA.
Jl audio also had equipment assembled in China. Not just cus its made in China its bad. Jl Audio Quality control is key
As I stated they do out source lower lines. Quality control is great for finding duds but it’s never gonna fix the use of inferior quality parts, adhesives, and building techniques.
Infinity kappa perfect 10.1
Been a fan of JL Audio since the beginning. I started with their low end products and eventually worked my way up to the W6 and W7 later on.
I heard two JL Audio 10s in a Chevy Cavalier back in @'97 on a small Alpine V12 amp and it was shaking my vehicle from the opposite side of a KFC building. Went to go see it for myself and it happen to be a buddy of mine. Stock GM radio, 2 JL 10s, old medium size Alpine V12 amp and that was it. Stuff was just laid in the trunk and quaked!!! It doesn't take much y'all but quality does make a difference.
Great video!!! As I 35yr master installer, I carried JL,RF,petras,alpine...way before today's budget products.you are spot on!!
People who hate on JL are clueless. They either can’t afford it or haven’t heard their stuff. Once you have heard them you won’t want to go back to anything else. Currently inning two 13w7s and I love them
A lot of people like to talk smack about JL because they're more expensive than other high end subs but what most fail to realize is that the magnet/motor structure is unique and appropriately sized for the driver size.
If you put a 10W7, 12W7, and 13W7 next to each other, you'll see that the motor gets bigger as the driver size increases, and that's because JL put the time and R&D budget into designing the right size motor for each driver.
If you do the same thing with another "super" sub like a Sundown something something, you'll see a 10 and a 12 with these ridiculously large motors, a 15 with a large motor, and an 18 with what looks like a small motor.... because they all use the same motor. This obviously helps cut down on cost, but what is the right motor size with respect to the driver size? Did they engineer the sub using the 12 as a template, and then scale it up to the 15 and 18, or did they design it around the 18 and scale it down for the 12?
Is the Sundown a lot louder and a lot cheaper? Definitely. Does it sound as good as the JL? Not in a million years.
When you buy a 12W6 or 12W7 from JL, you know you're getting a sub that was built from the ground up to be the best 12 it can be. You get what you pay for with JL, which is why they'll always be my sub of choice.
Man.....Whatever you were explaining..... Is the Gospel!!!!! When I moved to Detroit in 1998, a "D" Boy (you know what he was") had 3 JL 12's in a sealed box facing the rear with the the deck lid open, (it was in an 80 something Grand National) with the trunk facing away from the building. The enclosure was the approximately size that you have there w/o the port section. It actually had the brick wall of the building in front of the car vibrating as well as the windows in the laundry mat across the street behind the car flexing. JL Sub Woofers are NOT to be taken lightly at all !!!!! Yes another excellent video telling it like it is. Thanks again Man and keep killin' em'.
I currently have tow 12w3v2 in a box running on about 400w rms and it puts systems with more wattage to shame. I’ve had a lot of people ask me what I’m running and they don’t believe me. JL audio is really efficient and sound quality is impeccable.
Awesome video! I had TWO W7 12's and now I have a single 12W6 in the JL H.O. prefab box and it is astonishing. I was just at a lowrider show and people were like, "that's ONE 12" on 600 watts?!?!?" YEP. For what I can see, the 12W6 is just a scaled-down version of the 12W7. 33% down. Pound for pound, it may be one of the best JL subs ever!
Are u saying u prefer the W6 over a W7 or would a single W7 preform better in the set up u currently have?
@@tonywarren2549 for my application, the w6 works. It is lighter and requires less power to utilize its entire envelope. Both are amazing drivers though.
I've owned both and the w6 for price and for what it is, is an all around great sub. Personally, I prefer the w7. Both are musical af, in the right box you will hear sounds most subs just can't reproduce. My next setup will be focused on sq however, using w7s it's also going to give me the slam I want
You were using in a box they designed and made. I’m sure that’s a very big factor.
@@tonywarren2549 to me w7 is just a better sounding subwoofer. W6 is good but not better than W7. I am not just talking about output either, W7 is much cleaner and sounds better to my ears.
dual 12 W3s in a sealed box one of the cleanest system Ive heard
I've had many JL Subs. The W6 with the right power and enclosure will beat your back!
I like how you explain things. You make it make sense.
I love this guys enclosures. He makes it look easy. Box is just as, if not more important then the subs being that the subs are decent not half burned up and are mechanically sound.
I was right there with you.
Keep dropping that knowledge learning something new from your videos all the time 💯
Fan of the channel watch your videos daily you should do a video on the tools needed to build a sub box for beginners
Thanks for the info, ive noticed the only ones that hate on JL Audio can't afford JL Audio, plain and simple if JL was more affordable no one would purchase anything else!
Thanks for the clarity on subwoofer motor quality and strength and justified price for better quality subs👍🇺🇸
I have a JL W6v2 that I bought a long time ago.. maybe 10 or 12 years ago. It’s been in its ported box in the closet for probably 7 years. I can’t bring myself to part with it since I traded my car for a truck. When I had it hooked up, people couldn’t believe it was only a single 12. That sub is amazing.
1994, two JL W4s pushed by 2 hccas, .5 stable. The club owner would come outside to ask me to turn it down. Never got a noise violation and won 2 competitions. 149-150db daily. All stock btw
Hello, dear friend. Thank you for the informative and beautiful clip. Thank you for guiding me to make a ported enclosure for 2 subwoofers 8w3v3 jl audio. Thank you.
i had my w6v3 in a 2.5 cube box. i think it hit lower notes better and was louder overall than the jl spec box. i did it cuz the box i had was too big to remove from the trunk so i just swapped out the sub
Right on, brother. I'm 44 and still using A/D/S/ (Massachusetts-made), PPI Art Series (Arizona), and JL Audio 12" subs since the mid-90's lol. This shit STILL rules to this day. Boi, gunna LOOK NIIICE, boi!
I habe a single jl w3v3 4 and its sounds so great with electronic music. I switched from a skar sub and had no idea how much music was in my music unitl i switched to JL
Have 2 jlw6V2 12S from 2003. Best subs ever in my opinion. Ann's that's on a jl 1000/1......installed new surround about 2 years ago for $20 they hit just as hard as in 2003. My new alpine type x come pretty close to the sql of my jls
i have owned the 12w6v2 ,12w3's, and 12w0's. growing up i loved JL audio and all i ever ran in my rigs. i have respect for JL, they are the godfather of modern day spl. that being said the sundown sa12v1 or v2 will kill all of them i listed. sundown is for real and there coming for the crown, like it or not. i love your content MB. keep doing what you do for us and thank you for your time.
You talking about 2 whole diff subs tho! Sundown is a Spl sub an not great for just listening if you will. Get a new JL W6v3 or w7 an the dub only needs half the power plus half the space💯 you right Sundown beating the block! But can’t never be fooled what 3 JLs can do with only 1500 true what’s. When it takes sundown all the 1500. But just throwing that out there tho but glad you mentioned you ran them all that time cause they are the best sounding subs
nate0 great point..can’t deny that💯
Sundown slams no doubt. Can't argue. But you WILL NOT get the range of frequencies with sundown that you can get with jl 🤷♂️
How was the 12w3 compared to the 12w0?
I wish JL would make a classic series and bring back the original 12w6 as a 12w6 classic. I would insta-buy 6 12's. A trio of w6's =pure magic!
I still have my 8.3 microsub box , sold the 8W6's that were I'm there but man they beat for some 8"s . Rated for 600RMS but I ran a memphis 1000d @ 1ohm pumping 1100wrms and they took it all day , twice over....two 10w3s in a co workers tacoma down firing in a extended cab truck got me hooked on JL Audio
reminds me of my old Hollywood Excursions. their motor, was very small by todays standards. they were 12's rated for 225 wrms per subwoofer. they were in 2.5 cubes sealed, ran by a 900 watt amp, from the trunk. and it was so loud that you were in pain while you were in the back seat. you wanted out. so yeah. there's a definite science to the motors here. as well as enclosure and type of vehicle.
Growing up my uncle had two 12 kickers in sealed box with KENWOOD amp I remember how freaking clean it sounded In his 98 accord.
Alpine is great also, I love the type R series, the look of the box and how it absolutely rattles your car. And Orion is awesome also
Alpine does not compare to jl
@@curtg5654 man youre trippin type r's are savage af. you can throw all kinds of power at them. alpine does compare. if I had to pick type r or a w3 Im sorry Id pick type r in a heart beat. and Ive owned w3's so dont get me wrong, theyre dope subs for sure. but cannot knock the type r's man
Agree 100 % back in 2010 I had two 10 inch JL audio W6 V2 subs in a sealed box and man I still can’t find a subwoofer with cleaner bass
Why didn't you keep them , I've got a 10w6v2 looking for another
Good vid bro very knowledgeable because alot of us bassheads get caught up with the wrong idea about how some of this works thanks for the content keep it up
After reading some of the comments, I see their is a lot of JL hate in here. It's mostly because ignorant minds. JL is the top ranked for all around equipment for daily use across all vehicle platforms without needing massive amounts of power and current. When installed properly, ran properly, tuned properly, you will never have an issue. User error made JL haters.
You can get stuff half the price and perform just as well installed properly
@@mrjetlife27 agreed! And JL is just more on the tech side of it. Knowing how new cars are with the sensitive electrical they have, soon people will be paying JL money for long term in these new cars. Look what Steve Meade had to do just to run his amps in his Caddy. It’s tech that takes over today. But really, I could do a build with anything and come up with something impressive. All on the installer.
I agree JL audio equipment just works, you know what you are getting and the results are always repeatable. You have to work hard to make a JL audio subs sound bad.
I had the jl audio w6 12's 3 of them back in 99 in a 96 z71 Chevy truck took the back seat out custom box that thing hit hard
I had some w0 way back and they never seemed loud they got to say 125db and no matter how much power or what I changed they wouldn't get louder but on the good side they never blew up
clean sounding subs that are great for an sq build but definitely not meant for the spl lanes.great content on your channel.
To me the W6 is one of the best sql subwoofers of all times and spectacular balance of grace and sheer output I love my W7s and wanted to run them but u didn’t wana build me a box for it in this build lol so I went with 10” L7 q-class. Not to mention my 13w7 have and shelf expiration date due to the cheap foam surrounds and which are built to fail
And don’t have much of a Uv treatment as is …
Back in like '05 I had 3 JL 10s in a jl sealed box with an old Alpine amp think it was about 500 watts I remember that sounding extremely good. It was in the trunk of a 01 Impala.
I had a single jl 13w6 on a rockford fosgate t1000 , it was the best sounding hardest hitting system i ever had!
I’m patiently waiting for the new kicker solo x’s to drop to replace my old 12” solo x that the tinsel lead ripped out long ago. My old rare Rockford type rf x7 is wanting to push something big. First box I’ve ever built and took pride in was for that sub, 3.25 cu ft tuned to 32. Still have the box after a decade since running a real system. Currently prepping a more sq setup atm and delving into the dsp world. I almost pulled the trigger on a kicker l7 q class but decided to wait for the solo x. Love the videos man, keep em coming!
I can’t wait till he reviews the L7 Q class 15s!! With a ported box for two of them Speaking it into existence! and if he ever reviews the new solo X’s that’s coming out in the 15” version in a dual 15 box im going to lose it
I recently bought 2 L7Q 12’s, and was extremely disappointed. I’m a big Kicker supporter/fan and I’ve only had L7’s in my last 4 vehicles.
Looking back I should’ve gone with 10’s, as the parameters between Q-10’s and 12’s are extremely similar, and I was using 1.5 cubic feet per sub(sealed).
IMO L7R or L7S is the way to go overall when you weigh the scale and look at the specifications. That being said, I had 2 Solo X 12’s, and will HAVE to buy the new ones when they come out!!!
Since I’m here, any recommendations on a good SQ/SPL subwoofer for .9 - 1.15cu ft sealed?
Also, thoughts on Skar audio amplifiers?
You said the truth brother. Thank you. I just subscribed to your channel. I look forward to watching back your videos to learn from you.
I've owned a bunch of JL stuff over the years and would agree that JL makes great products, BUT you'll need to refinance your home, sell off a kidney or some such in order to buy an amp and a couple subs.
lol
You DO get what you pay for. Check out their home theater subs. Throw on a pair of depends first - you'll thank me later!
Yeah true. Same with jbl home theater or dj speakers. They are expensive but like you said you get what you paid for. Scratches seem smooth by ear of sound.
Yeah true. Same with jbl home theater or dj speakers. They are expensive but like you said you get what you paid for. Scratches seem smooth by ear of sound.
JL W6 12 was always my favorite the one from the 90’s era back then couldn’t afford them then good video G
I am new in diy and love watching your videos learning a lot god bless you sir
Much respect for the knowledge n the build can’t wait to get it installed gonna make that shit bang 4 sho LV702 west up 👊🏽👊🏽
I'm running 4 10w6s on 2 rockford 1200s in a 3 cubic sealed box in my 19 f150 and I haven't heard a better underseat setup yet. They only need .55 cubes per sub so it's a little over spec and plays surprisingly low.
Many can get loud but few get loud while being an SQ sub. JL sound so nice in the proper box with proper amp. Sure, others can sound just as good and get even louder but at that point they cost same as JL. Like sundown x series etc
I have 2 10W3s. They're awesome! I want to get a posted box for them, tho.
JL’s sound is like no other! Their is couple SQ subs that cost double might sound as good but JL is the “Goat”
I had a 13.5w7 in ported box at 32hz an 1000/1 years ago. Best I ever had
Same here 8 yrs ago
Funny in the latest video I asked about JL then this popped up randomly good stuff brotha
I have a date v2 and bass box pro and can vouch the accuracy on JL audio ts parameters and box specs. Very rare
Man the last words got me laughing man. Time for em voice coils 😂hahahaha 👍
That's some hi tech speaker talk ! 👍🏻 any idea ,if a w7 13 motor on a 18 basket would work for a home system ?
The JL 13W7 is one heck of a sound quality monster and the bass is so deep and rich. I fell in love with the Fi Neo 3.5 12 inch too. Fi does make the baddest meanest subs for both SPL and SQ, and anywhere in between.
Yep I had 2 13.5 w7s and I upgraded for spl to some neo 3.5 18s, the w7s sound alot cleaner but the fi sound pretty good, only thing is they have no backplate venting so they make alot of mechanical noise
I've never heard a w7 that sounded good. Only loud. W6 is another story.
@@sterlingcampbell2116 w6 better than w7???
You don't got to tell me, my two w3s crushing everything on my block My guy!!
I'm running 4- 13W7AE-D1.5 and 4 jl audio rd1500 amps in a astro van it's really the best sounding stereo I have ever heard in my life I set off my neighbors car alarm on the next block not kidding
Awesome! Video like always 😍 it's crazy how much I learned from all your videos
loved the info provided but my fav part was the ending gassing up wifey "looking like a government cheque...yes lawd." hahaha
That's a beautiful box in the background
The W0 was my first subs at 12 years old, so I can relate, and yes they better in threes..... somewhat recommended
IN 1995 I had a 94 Blazer with 4 15inch JL Audio subs running off 2 PP Pro Mos 50's walled sealed boxed and still had the back seat. Thing would do low to mid 150's db on music not burbs and still finish top 5 in SQ. First 2 numbers I look at when buying stuff is signal to noise and efficiency. So what if your sub can handle 3000 watts if it's s/n is only 86db when this other brand only handles 1500 but has a s/n of 96 db. I'm taking the 96 db one all day. I don't know how JL tech support is today but at the time my installer called JL about box design for best results and they called back the next day with a complete design with all cut lengths and angles.
I run JL audio W6 with 500 watts in a 0.6 cube box in my Audi it hits hard
I have lots of JL old school stuff and I wouldn't trade it for anything
I seen your other video about clean bass and running more watts than rms ratings. I have A rockford T1000-1BD pushing 2 JL 12 TW3's rated at 400 rms each wired to 1 ohm. Would that be over powering the subs? Or would it produce clean bass? Custom sealed enclosure made by MTI Acoustics. 1.7 cubic feet. Should I wire it down to 2 ohms or keep at 1 ohm?
I have all jl Audio system front doors C3 650 and rear doors C5 650X powered by the XD400/4V2 a CS112TG-TW3 powered with the XD3001V2 my second CS112TG-TW3 powered with the XD500/3V2 powering another set of C3 650 sound quality is amazing
Would love to know the dimensions of the box to see if it would work in my car
I had 3 original 12w6s and they were impressive for 300 watts rms.
You gotta do a solo X review.
Much respect from everyone you are like the god of car audio😎💪🏽👍🏽
I had two Jl audio w3 v2s running on a Rockford fosgate p1000 BD and even though those woofer's were only rated 300 watts RMS they both would take that thousand Watts with no problem whatsoever the pole piece wasn't even ventilated on the subs that I had and I never felt the cone get hot I've ran them in a sealed box I ran them in a custom ported box tuned to about 35 Hertz and they never missed a beat I ended up upgrading to some different subs not going to mention the name cuz I don't want to bash nothing but by looking at the specs on the subs I replaced it with you would have thought it would have been louder given the same power but honestly I didn't notice a difference in loudness what I did notice was the sound quality difference and those Jl audios even though they were in a different class they were actually considered to be lower quality than what I replaced them with those new subs could not beat the sound quality the other ones played a little lower but the punch that the jls had was not there
I have 2 jl w6v3 both in a separate h.o box they come in with the jl 1200/1 hd.. but want a custom sealed box.. with 1.3 cube airspace per sub.. would love for you to build me a custom box.. I like your work and also the knowledge on jl.
Thanks for the class teach
I love the way you explain shit.
Hey MB I'm curious what your thoughts are of the Memphis VIV14" subwoofer.. 7.5" voice coil technology that lets it play flat with high power. I have seen it compared to a JL Audio 13W7. It looks and sounds pretty promising.
after being out of the car audio game for 15 years. I jumped back in. I have a little more money than I use to. I had limited in space in my 09f350. this shit hits harder than my old w15. crazy clean and loud.
the TW3 is for real.
Lol check the voice coil!!!! 🤣 Your gonna need a bigger alternator. Great video as always. Keep on keeping on .
I know it's not JL audio quality but what's your opinion on the budget friendly single 12" Sundown E12 in a down4sound profab box? Is that box the proper size for that speaker? I know it's a budget set up but I'm curious because they say that box was designed specifically for the Sundown E12. I ask because I know how you preach how important box is.
I’ve been running Alpine since like 2003, and vouching/spending on them ever since. Always been an SQ vs SPL fan, but still like my shit to hit, and these are many of the same reasons why I’ll always run Alpine, would like to get your opinion on them, especially the Type-X and the new F#1 gear.
I've heard 2 x 10" Alpine type S in sealed separate truck enclosures about a month ago and I must say I was very impressed. In was ran by Alpine 5 channel amp. The entire system was alpine and the sound quality was amazing.
@@lamar5021 ya that’s what got me stuck on Alpine for so long, and why I think it’s the perfect brand for beginners/intermediate car audio fans. It held me for almost 20 years, same with kicker (except they don’t make headunits) but ya I run Orion now, never going back!
#OrionArmy
🦾💀🔊
I used to be a JL fan boy, I started with the w5 duel 8ohm in box built to specs( it took up the whole trunk in a 90 cougar) then I got the w3's when they hit the market in 99 00, anyway over the years you collect car audio, so in the early 00 I had two 15in kicker comp (dvc) but sill collected JL when I found a good deal. Around 2012 I sold my park ave, and sold my 15's and just left car audio alone, but still have my wall of amps ( ppi a 600.2 mtx jack hammer eclipse xa1000 first gen punch 150hd just to name a few, I'm looking at the wall as I'm writing so I'm trying not to leave my favorite's out, like my very first real amp kenwood 921, but back to JL so last year I decided to build another vehicle and I took out two JL 10w0 boxes, one was a triple stack and the other duel. Both boxes had the JL grills ( the metal grills with the rubber u push in) they've been in the garage for 10plus years and when I put power to them the surrounds blew off all 5 speaker's, I call JL and they basically said the grills had a design flaw that condensation from the elements would build up around the metal and soaked up by the foam surrounds, but unfortunately they don't carry the surrounds for that gen any more and basicly go f myself. I had two 12in p1 that I had to use and they were in the garage two but they were fine, hell I got two 10 in Optimus pro in kicker boxes that have cloth surroundings, no damage. Anyway I came across two 12in l7 in separate boxes for two hundred used and honestly I don't think I'll ever go back to Jl audio, or a round sub again
I’ve run the 13” W6v2 with a 500.1 slash series on each sub.
There’s nothing like that setup with quality and power
I have 2 JL Audio w3 13’s in my Cadillac Escalade..been having them for a little over a month..I love them but I move up to the W7’s..
Please look into Audiomobile subwoofers and see how they compare to JL Audio?
Love Jl Audio for years, but really fell in love with JBL gti subs also
I need to box built for 3 jl w3v3 tens. Would I get the best sound from a ported or sealed enclosure?
Coming from the view point of someone who’s studying how to build subwoofers from the ground up, ya JL is a good brand BUT there’s no magic to them it’s just that there price point on the “higher end “ subwoofers is so much that people who can afford the higher and stuff already have the batteries and aftermarket alternators to power there equipment to the point that the subwoofers they use really don’t matter. And those that can afford to put real money into there systems tend to be older/more mature and know how to use the equipment they have. On the flip side some of those people that can afford higher end equipment tend to be Snobs about it and tend to talk down on less expensive brands and the people who use them. In all reality name brand equipment is just that a NAME BRAND and the more overhead they have the more there equipment will cost and most subs are either made in China or the parts come from China and are just assembled over here. A 1200$ JL is worth about 100$ in parts it’s the labor to put them together that costs $$. Also the fact that JL warranty’s or lack of will keep only those who can keep forking out the $$ to keep buying the same equipment. So In the end as long as you have a proper power supply the amps and drivers you use should not fail unless seriously abused. Motor,coils,leads,spiders,CA glue,cone,surround and terminals=a speaker,driver,woofer,subwoofer
100% agree, if you truly look into JL they done even own there patents and all there stuff is made overseas in the same build houses that makes the other so-called cheaper brands. Facts, go check them out
You could never build a w7 for $100 or any sub on par for that matter as the motor alone is easily gonna cost $400 plus. I’ve been building subs by hand for years and the parts on a w7 (except the coil) are not available. They are not off the shelf parts like a company like sundown or skar will use. All those others brands that cost significantly less are not assembling their product either. They are out sourcing it to China and in many cases the quality of the build is not even close and they use inferior materials. Brand hype definitely exists and not always do you get what you pay for. In some cases though, you actually do! Look at all the amplifiers today, majority are built over seas and is why it cost 15 cents or less a watt. Hand built USA made amps that cost over a $1 watt the sound quality was incredible, the quality was amazing, and you could pass those amps down to your grand kids 😂
Love my w7 12s I blow them up all the time just to rebuild them
It would be nice if dealers had loaner boxes. I'm torn between a sub that performs well in sealed box and the JL Audio W6.