Honda Civic Intake Air Hose Replacement Change 2013 and Others like it and How to Remove Air Cleaner
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2023
- Wasn't difficult but very annoying to get to it. Follow along as we change out the intake hose and fiqure out how to remove that darn Air Cleaner Assembly...
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This was really helpful and I did it today my self and it worked like a charm. Thank you for posting the video.
Excellent and thanks for watching too...
Thanks to this video I did it!
It was my first time to ever work on my car even an oil change.
Thats Excellent and great to hear..and thanks for watching too...
How did you remove the sensor plug? Mine doesn't move at all when trying to pull it off
@@timdao3456 there is a little tab that you can push in with a screw driver or something. push in while pulling the sensor out.
its tight but doable.
I did it my self. The rubber intake boot is only $20 bucks , At the dealer $250 plus tax parts and labor to get it done.
There you go, nothing more satisfying than getting it done yourself ..and thanks for watching too...
Just did my 2015. The rip was at the throttle body side towards the firewall so it was not easy to see it but was half the circumference long. During strong acceleration when the engine moved in a specific way, the hole opened up resulting in a major hesitation and hickup. No error codes. Had 8.3L/100km in the city which I thought was a little too high. Will see, now, that it is fixed, if it runs more efficiently.
It should solve your problems for sure..thanks for watching too...
how long did it take for you to change and it was 8.3l/100kms, now what is your gas efficiency like?
@@mortgagedavid... about 45mins or so but mostly figuring out how to remove the airfilter box :). It fixed the hesitation but the gas mileage stayed about the same :(
apply some battery corrosion jelly to those battery terminals and use corrosion X on all the fasteners to prevent rust and it will be alot easier to remove later Al.
Good tip John
Any video on cleaning the throttle body on these Civics? I can't find any. I can on both the older, newer, and the si's but not this style. Looking to see what I need to do to clean it while the hoses are off.
Cleaning this style is no different, you have to open the throttle plate manually...
Thank u for this video. I was wondering how to pull that air is out
You're welcome and thanks for watching too...
thank u very very much i just notice my hose is ripped from both side and after i replaced it solved P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold civic 2013 hatchback
Yes it will, more air not metered will force the computer to add more fuel to the injectors to make it run to specs, but it adds too much and can't keep up..thanks for watching and I'm glad it worked out for you...
Like the way you work
Thank you, I try to be straight to the point, no fluff about subscribing, thumbs up, and Merchandise..😆
And Thanks for watching..thats what I do, thank everyone that thanks me ❤😊
Really fun to do in the winter without a heated garage... was going to change the tranny filter, but the hoses are too tight and too cold. Save that for the summer...
I know what you mean, I had to buy a propane heater for those kind of days...
I have the same crack was yours throwing a code that was related to your evap? I have an EVAP code and I change the purge solenoid but the one that I changed seems to be working fine in the new one was making a ticking noise when I replaced it so I put the old one back on. I also have a p420 code saying that my catalytic converter is below threshold. Last year I use cataclean and it made the light go away this year it doesn't seem like it wants to go away when I put the cataclean in.
No codes will come on with the cracked hose, just a stutter or buck in the engine while driving
Evap codes is a different system
The cat is bad but you can do a bypass on the o2 sensor with a oil fouled tip..you see it on line...I don't post that since its illegal
Thanks for the video. How did you remove the sensor plug? Having a hard time removing it. Do you need to compress anything prior pulling it off or using any special tools? Thanks.
It has a center lock clip piece that you push in or down in this case and then pull
Great job man. Just one tip: use silicon spray when removing rubber parts, you'll see how easier the job is.
Gonna try that next time...thanks for the tip and thanks for watching too...
I would recommend to clean trottlebody on the inside as well the mof sensor if you doing this work it’s will make car run better
That is correct, I cleaned at 7:50 on the video too..and thanks for watching too...
You're awesome brother! 👊
@@MattG77NY thanks and thanks for watching too...
Thank You! Honda quoted me 270!
That's nuts..but that is a dealership price..lol
Quoted me the same
Brother, let me ask. How many inches is the screen installed on the car? Thank you.
Not sure what you mean by a screen?
Is there a way to diy test to make sure there aren’t any other broken hoses/tubes?
You would have to purchase a smoke machine..it applies smoke thru the hoses and any leaks will leak out thru the cracks..but the old saying goes, if in doubt, change it out..rubber does get old, dry, brittle. If the vehicle is in great shape. You change things before it breaks and you will get more years and miles out of it..change all your radiator hoses. Heater hoses etc..all these things can blow at any time.
How did u 15:12 fit the tube in. I can’t do it properly I only got half way in but the bottom is coming out. I tightened it up but is it gonna come out when I drive
I put the bottom in 1st then you can grab the hose top to fit it in..you can also use a screwdriver to pry up the rubber up and over
I did mine and the sluggish issues still continue but almost slightly different than before. My initial symptoms came on about a week ago, and they were sluggish acceleration about 2/3 of the time from a stop and then accelerating and just slower, and it got reallly noticed on turns after being at a stop. It reminded me of when i first bought the car back in late 2020 but that time around it also had a slight wheel jerk and sound added to the sluggish acceleration that seemed eapecially pronounced on turns after being at a stop. The thing that happened 4 years ago I got lucky with as I bought the car used at a dealership and it had a 2 week warranty. They found my cause was I needed to have my torque converter replaced and they did have it replaced and paid the bill for the torque converter to be fixed at a Honda Dealership down the road from them.
This time around it is having almost the identical sluggish issues that seem most pronounced intermittently at turns. After today when the hose and air filter was replaced it seemed to get better for a minute but than started up again. But didnt seem as sluggish for the most part as it did before the replacement of the cracked hose. But there was one time today on a turn where it got worse than any of the instances in the last week where I was really testing it by doing fast turns and on one of those turns was a left turn from a stop light where i had a green arrow going onto a freeway on ramp and at last second some dipshit from oncoming traffic cut me off and did a slow right turn and then went super slow onto the on-ramp so i had to slow down but when i had to brake you could really feel a major jolt because of instead of giving a weak acceleration more gas I had to brake on it instead to slow down and then after that instance it ran back and forth between way smoother after stops than anytime it ran before i replaced the hose in the last week to also being a little sluggish also but in most cases not as bad as the last week with the exception of where the one dipshit got in my way.
My transmission fluid is pink, doesnt smell weird to my knowlege as the fluid was changed 5 months ago about 40,000 miles after it was all replaced when they put the new torque converter in.
My 2013 Civic has 165k on the odometer, I bought it with 110k on the odometer, and it has ran pretty dang good after the torque converter was replaced pretty much right after I first bought the. This is infuriating me. I thought I hit a gold mine when i found the crack in the hose yesterday after watching this video is what prompted me to check the hose and sure enough found 2 cracks in it and thought good, not torque converter again. I guess what my question is is has anyone noticed my exact symptoms , like especially at turns but also while accelerating from straight stops too?? Did anyone do this fix and experience these symptoms like I am where the sluggishness is there still but for the most part something different about the sluggishness?? And if you did how long did it take to go away?? I drove the vehicle on and off many times running a bunch of errands and doing activities after throughout the rest of the day and this has been my experience for it all day since the fix. Again my car is throwing zero codes from the cheap OBD Scanners from Oreilly so I guess if there isnt a somewhat signifigant amount of time to give it for the computer for it to reset itself what other direction should I be looking?? I put about another additional 50 miles on the vehicle today after the fix and i watched the person who did it for me and they did it identical to how exactly you did it and he seemed to tighten everything very well and the finished product looks identical to yours. Does the computer need more time to reset?? Should i disconnect the battery and try that??? I have a feeling that wont change squat. I couldnt see any other cracked hoses. Thank You
Since it is a 4cyl, do you do your oil changes at the correct times, have you ever not changed your oil and went past the required miles?
I do change my oil every 5 to 7k sticking with 5k as my main number I go buy. This is semi synthetic so I am told I can go 5 to 7k between changes. I go more on the 5k end. Not sure why your leaning towards the maybe the oil changes are being neglect route.
@@anthonykirkwood4112 because Hondas have a vvt solenoid that will give you the same symptoms and a dirty screen or clogged screen can give you that with no codes.why, you think I'm picking on you on oil changes? You asked for help and I'm trying to help ya..look it up, its a common thing
Right, I have definetly never went much above 6000 miles and 6000 is perfectly allowable between semi or synthetic. Is it possible the Valvoline guys when I had it done a month ago or so put the wrong kind of oil in??
Look, I never said you were picking on me, I just don't think this is an oil problem. Like I said I have never skipped oil changes or went on for excessive amounts passed the mileage. So where else to look?
@@anthonykirkwood4112 different grade oil wouldn't affect it, its more of dirt passing a filter and blocking it..Hyundai and nissan has the same problems..if you look up the vvt solenoids and a screen gasket you can see what it looks like. Variable Valve timing affects the camshaft timing and on certain cars when on turns, the oil pressure for some reason messes that up.
What are symptoms of this being broken? Are there any? Mine is cracked too
Hesitation or a bucking while moving..gives you the feeling of a bad transmission shifting
Hi! I have a 2012 civic, I did exactly what you did, changed the exact same part and i used the exact same replacement you used, dorman, but i have a question, once i did the change the vsa, check engine and power steering lights turned on, i turned on and off the car 3 times and all 3 came off, but the car now has delays when i accelerate, feels like it drowns, and hesitate a lot when it shifts (is automatic), i just want to know if thats normal and will fix itself with time or the car has issues… thanks btw…
If you didn’t have these problems before,check your work, you either do not have the hose properly on the throttle body or air filter outlet, you left off or not properly attached the extra hoses or your connection or connecter to the sensor is off. Look around your area to see if you knocked something off.
Do you have any update on this? I’m having the exact same issue.
@@willjohnson9981 i think it solved itself, maybe air went inside when i replaced the hose and the engine was burning it, once the excess got burned the engine came back to normal. In my case the mechanic cleaned the throttle system, accelerated the car without the hose, a lot of air came in, maybe the excess came from that… but it solved itself for me. Check the connections in case you left a hole or something
@@willjohnson9981 Any update on yours? I have to do the same to mine soon.
@@FabioPerez_ Sill working fine? I have to do the same to mine soon.
6:21 I was not able to disengage the air cleaner housing grommet from the stud because later was hardened from the engine heat, so I managed to put new hose by squeezing its bellows.
Tight fit for sure
Best to put the air filter in the air box while it is removed. The Dorman hose fit over the airbox is tight, it is best to stretch it on like an undersized military grade condom and then install the clamp, a bit of silicone lube helps. A good hose clamp is helpful over the OEM and garbage Dorman clamps. A bit of grease on the airbox lower rubber mount will make it easier next time. Like you stated, it's a pretty annoying design to service, no wonder they lost the war lol.
Any tips of how to stretch it on other than lube and elbow grease? After hours of trying I took off the lid, lubed it up and finally got the Doman hose over the box. Now I am hoping it stretches the hose so I can take off, quickly put the rest of the filter box back in, and hope the hose remembers that it fits.
Figured it out. Thanks for the tips, especially installing the clamp after everything is on.
Changed mine on my 2012 and encountered the same issue. Clamp at throttle body snapped and I gave up on trying to get that air cleaner out lol.
I thought I was the only one..Thanks for watching too...
Lol just changed that clamp too. no way it was ever going to go on The air filter housing because the cheap dorman clamp only opens to 76mm and the original clamp opens up to 80 mm I should have watched your video entirely before doing the job would've saved me 30 mins and a lube job
@@Nitrogeek101 cheap clamps.lol
Those clamps and especially the screws on them are really weird. I was able to reuse them. Put some grease on before reinstalling. Mind that it's much easier to screw and unscrew them using a socket,not a screwdriver. I figured 5.5 mm one it's a perfect fit, after trying quite a few sizes.
@@ivoandonov clamps are definitely not good quality...
The hose is too narrow for the air filter box. How did you slide it on? Any tips ?
I was able to get the Doman part on. First, I lubed it with a small amount of Vaseline. Then, just to prove to myself that it does in fact fit, I installed it with the lid only so there was more space to work with. I left it for a while and then came back and practiced sliding it on b/c there was a technique. Finally, I put the whole box back in and got the hose over. It solved the hiccups during acceleration on my ‘13 Civic manual transmission. Thanks for the video!
Awesome and its right what they say, practice makes perfect..it gets easier as you do more than once..😆
Ive seen so many of these with the break in that exact spot
Rubber ages and gets brittle, common problem on a part that flexes alot for sure.
@@alyoungcuda youre talking about a vehicle that is already 12 years old; whether that’s a Honda or not if that’s your biggest issue with the vehicle at that point consider yourself lucky…. My fiancé has this year model civic, just hit 200,000 miles…last month I had to replace all the motor and transmission mounts…other than that no major issues….this im not counting as major I didn’t even know it was split until I was going to start doing some preventative maintenance stuff she needed.
This guy's accent is off the charts
New Yorker..😆
Never thought a little hose was going to such pain is ass!
Definitely un a bad spot for sure..
Honda should have a recall on this intake hose. It seems like this happens to all 9th generation. Same flaw like all other videos here of the same generation. I just replaced my wife’s(2015 civic) and the cut is exactly at the same spot. Who knows how long it’s been like that? I noticed it was choking a bit when accelerating. The cut wasn’t visible and not an easy find. My other 20yr old Toyota car doesn’t have this issue. I lost the rubber grommet at the back of the air filter assembly during installation and who knows where it went. I put everything back without it lol.
Definitely a common problem, rubber does get old and brittle.
Yup dealing with the same rip on my 2012 coupe right now
@@alyoungcuda well, not my 20 year old Toyota.
@mattmurray3327 you just jinxed yourself 😆
Would this cause CEL to come on?
Not really, it will cause a slight surge from the turbulence of air coming in from the unfiltered area but then that could cause a light if it affects the oxygen sensors because of too much air coming in and the computer can feed more fuel and give a lean code...
@@alyoungcudaI got CEL with code P1129. Ended up finding this broken hose. Havent fixed it yet. Was just wondering. Thank you.
@@MrKkpain that's a throttle plate code, I would try cleaning it out once you remove the hose to it
@@alyoungcuda just cleaned it today. We'll find out once i drive it around 100 miles. Usually it throws that code after around 100 miles.
@@MrKkpain that's very weird...good luck
exact thing happened to my 2013 honda civic.
Common defect as they get older
Probably all the times I changed the air filter and forced the hose is what causes the tear
Just plain old age too
found mine torn the other day, have to replace mine,,,,,your brake fluid looks low :)
Fluid gets low as your brakes wear down, its a good indicator unless you have a brake leak..😆
@@alyoungcuda i know that, i keep the fluid at the max, and check the pads at my tire rotaiobs
7/32 or 5.5
Definitely smaller size
@@alyoungcuda what size did you use? Doing the replacement tonight when I get home
@@heBereal standard size for me
@@alyoungcuda im referring to the hose clamp not intake box, I may also try a flathead as I see the screw is slotted for flathead
@@heBereal of course that depends if it has ever been changed before, those clamps are odd sizes sometimes in-between metric and standard
Thank God Saturn is only a memory. Terrible engineering
I agree