Electrician here: I usually don't use WAGO connectors due to cost, but there is one scenario in particular where they are a lifesaver. If for whatever reason you have a very short conductor inside of a box that's maybe 1-2 inches long, it is very hard to get a solid and reliable connection with a wirenut to extend that wire. The end to end connector is great for this scenario. (most often the case if drywallers knick your wire). Also works great if you have to do a splice in an LB
Wago is sooooo good for commoning 4 or more conductors to keep them nice and straight in the box. They are also a lifesaver for when you're high on a ladder working overhead to replace a light fixture. The splice is just so much faster and arguably superior, especially as light fixtures use stranded wire and I've always hated splicing stranded to solid using wirenuts.
Same here. I personally prefer wire nuts for reasons I will not get into here (they cause arguments by people who prefer Wagos), but these are perfect for last resort wire extensions (in lower power applications) as you state.
I've gotten a handfull of electric repaired calls over the years that were just failed wagos. . They weren't cooked or looked look like they had gotten moister... Just failed..I don't trust um. Don't use um
I would still prefer the 2 wire connectors for light fixtures, but the breaker panel sounds like a good application. The one thing that I found them extremely valuable for was troubleshooting two different Lutron smart 3-way switches. I was quickly able to swap the switch around with the secondary accessory switch and get them working. Nothing is more annoying that doing and undoing wire nuts with stranded wires on smart switches. Would also be nice to one day see houses built with something like Wagos as it could make electrical work more plug and play if basically none of the copper wire was exposed.
Crazy that you made a video on this cause I was browsing Amazon last Saturday and ordered these for upcoming light fixture upgrades. That light you were hanging are the same ones I ordered from Home Depot on Saturday as well... Thanks for all your tips.
I love these wago connectors! I recently installed a few light fixtures (ceiling fans, flush/semi flush mount lights etc) and these made install a breeze as some were replacement fixtures and some were new fixtures. I wish I had saw these single connectors before I started my project but that's on me! I have a few left over but if I were to need more I'm checking your Amazon store for sure! Thank you!
Great product update. Also great for pigtailed extensions on short wires. Hope Wago adds an in-line 3-in/ 6-out connector for splitting off from a branch line without needing to pull slack from existing line (e.g., cutting into an 12/3 to feed an additional 12/3 branch). Such things are available from their competitors, but I prefer Wago.
The Wago lever type connectors are IMHO the best option for stranded wire. The lever on the sheet metal conductor inside the Wago flattens the strands out for a better connection, way better than wire nuts which were well demonstrated in this vid
Thanks to you making me aware of these a couple years back I used these to connect a 12v wiring harness to an FM repeater where the company that took it out of service cut the wires very close to the enclosure. It was such an easy and clean fix where you wouldn't ordinarily use a wire nut, you'd have to do some soldering and repair it like you did those cell phone charging cables. So it's not just good for high voltage. These buttsplice connectors would be even better.
The temporary light is better than what I used to do. I would jus5 stick the wires into a plug to socket adapter and tape it in. Not particularly safe, so this is a much better idea. Thanks for the tip.
I sometimes use the inline connectors when making automotive wire repairs/additions. Especially for things like audio equipment, where components may be swapped out at a later date, and there’s little room for a crimping tool. For more permanent/weatherproof connections, I’ll side on a piece of shrink tubing over the connector.👍
I'm the electrical lead of one of my local highschool FRC robotics teams and we actually use these wagos a lot for our canbus connections. For our power connections we use Anderson powerpoles though.
Thanks for the feedback, I actually used to work on CANbus daily. Used to take a TON of data on Caterpillar heavy equipment. Was a data 🤓 for many years.
So agree on the Wagos being a live saver. Just changed a light switch and the old one had really short wires screwed to it (house was built in 1910 and it's knob and tube wiring). Wagoed (spell check says it is a word) the K&T onto some extensions made from Romex scraps. As for the inline splices, I have not yet used them but one spot I can see them being handy is on a portable stereo I have. The charger cord fatigued where the charger's barrel plug entered the stereo's charging port. Spliced a new plug onto the cord but since I suck at soldering, used the old school Wago's to make the connections. (wish Wago made something that had four ports but the bus bar was broken in the middle)
Love the Wago’s, when you have a 4 square box with 2 outlets in the middle of a run that’s a lot of ground wires and multiple wire nuts to make it all up. I don’t need to tell you that takes up a lot of space, gets kinda tight in there 😅. One thing, I also put a bit of tape around the levers just as a precaution.
Had to replace both wireing looms that go to the trunk in my BMW e61 Touring. You have to cut the old looms right behind the hinch above the speakers on the roof laying on your back. Both looms had about 15 individual wires. I have a bad back an they where a lifesaver in that monent. I know they are not really meant to be used in cars but it´s been almost a year and everything works fine. No malfunctions, no error messages .
Excellent ! I added the in-lines based on your previous video. I needed to upgrade a couple of receptacles in very tight outlet boxes where the leads weren't a full 6 inches. But I know they will come in handy for the other applications mentioned. At the time i couldn't find a reasonably small quantity of the 12 Ga ( 221-2401 supports 20-12 AWG solid, 18-12 AWG stranded). So i bought the 14Ga (221-2411 supports Solid 20-14 , Stranded 18…14 ). I don't really understand why they bother to make the 14 Ga, so make sure you buy the right ones
Good question on the 14 gauge. I think maybe those are targetted a bit more to markets running 240V for most fixtures which would lower the standard current and increase the use of 14 gauge. 🤷♂️ I think for the US market now that the product is more available 2401 is the go to but there for about 12 months 2401 and 2411 were really tough to get in the states.
Scott, I just ordered some of the 6-series because there are some 10ga wires I need to use for long home runs. But I also ordered some of Wago's 2773 connectors for two reasons: 1) I wanted a few 4-conductor, 6-conductor, and 8-conductor options that don't exist in the 221 lineup. 2) If you're "designing as you go" --- maybe because it's not yet clear where and how you can run lines in a renovation --- and want temporary use of a circuit or otherwise have not finalized all your home runs and feeder runs, you can finish up with the non-level 2773 style and save quite a bit of money. Supposedly you CAN remove a solid wire from a 2773 connector with a twist and pull, for the inevitable times when that'll be needed. But hey, especially for things like junction boxes, you shouldn't really need to build in disconnects anyway. The only downside is that Wago has not yet released a larger version of the 2773's that will accommodate 10ga.
An 8 conductor wago seems unnecessary, 8 hot, neutral, and grounds is 24 wires and a standard box is only allowed 9 14 awg wires. Or 8 12 awg. Just keep that in mind when neprking on your project, good luck
@@billy9075 Hi Billy. I have several metal J-boxes, at 4 11/16" by 2 1/8". These are represented in the 314.16(a) chart of standard sizes. The NEC says these are 42 cu in boxes. In one example, I'll use 14ga for short runs to 7 room receptacles fed by a long 10ga home run. 14 hots and 14 neutrals of 14ga = 28 cu in, and the two 10ga conductors = 5 cu in. Add another 2 cu in to represent the largest (10ga) ground (the other grounds aren't counted; all grounds = "1 conductor") and I'm still under 36 cu in, with room to spare for the splicer. :)
That's what I've been using now they are nice specially when you have a bunch of wires you accidently cut or rewiring someone else's mess and aren't positive to connections are what in a wiring harness
For me I want to put in a Reliance generator transfer switch on a few critical loads in my house. This requires you to remove the black hot from the breaker, route it over to the transfer box, and then return to the breaker. The transfer box comes with the wires to/from the box, but you still have to connect it to the original black hot somehow. These inline Wago's seem like the perfect item to do that.
I used six inline Wago connectors in my breaker panel when I put a generator transfer switch in. 2 connectors for extending the neutral and ground to the terminal bars, 4 to connect one side of each transfer switch to the load circuits.
That's where they really shine. I always hated the loop back from using the standard Wagos, or even wire nuts. The inline connectors make it simple, and it just looks better. I also use them for pulling circuits from my breaker box to a sub panel that is powered by solar.
I like the concept of the inline and your second and third use cases, but the first use case, if we're talking in a box, I would think the standard connector uses less space when you tuck it back in. I recently ordered a starter kit before they offered the inline, so I just bought the 20-piece from your list. Thank you!
I added some inline Wagos for garage door opener sensors. The sensors don't come with much wire so needed to splice them into a longer wire to then run to the opener itself. Since it's 18 guage wire, the Wagos were perfect for this.
I like these a lot, after I saw videos on them I bought a couple of boxes of each size and replaced all of my wire nuts in junction boxes etc in my house that I installed years ago
Great video EHR. I was wondering about those. I purchased a kit and some refills on your Amazon store, but I haven't had occasion for those yet. They seemed to me that it would be "longer" and take up more room, however, the use, especially in a circuit breaker panel box would be ideal. Running out of room myself but need to replace 2 breakers. Thinking of staying with 15 amps even though I've upgraded the wiring to 12 / 2 with ground and am using 20 amps outlets... I will be glad when 14 gauge is no more. Getting tired of rewiring houses. Hope one day I can have a house built to my specs. All 12/2 instead of 14/2 and I am also considering an extra wire just for grounding the box itself to bond with the panel. The less splices, the better. Having all wires connect directly to a socket receptacle, or light fixture or switch, all the better too. Without pigtails even on grounds. Hell just make them all isolated grounds so you're ensured that electronics and stereo equipment is properly grounded regardless of where connected.
If you're using 12/2 why use 15 amp breakers? There's no up side, I'd go with 20 amp breakers and 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacles. 20 amp receptacles offer no advantage either.
@@surferdude642 Because I haven't yet upgraded the breakers. If it isn't broken, I don't want to fix it. 2o amps receptacles allow for a weird plug, which I actually had on a computer power supply unit I had many moons ago. While I haven't encountered them since, I like to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
@@michaeljavert4635 Ok then, but keep in mind that equipment that uses a 20 amp plug is extremely rare and if you ever come across one it's likely to be a fixed appliance and/or require a dedicated circuit meaning a single 20 amp receptacle, not the common duplex.
As a master electrician and the safety supervisor for an electrical contractor I'll say this. We don't use WAGOs. We hate them. I've seen more than a few fire jobs where wagos were used and not installed correctly. Its really easy to not seat the wire properly causing arching or have it pop out entirely.
I have been using their push ins for years but these are a step above. I tried them and am hooked. I wish they would make a six bay connector. I just bought the splice connectors which will be very useful and easier to use over the push in version.
Scott, some commenters on here mention Wago 2773s. Would be great to see these added to your test to see how they hold up. On your pull test for stranded/solid connection under a wire nut, past experience seems to result in better pull test results when the stranded wire is inserted into the wire nut and the stranded wire is bottomed out, firmly seated in the end of the nut before placing the solid conductor. However, the Wago really takes the potential concern out of the installation when stranded wire is part of the install.
i love wago when connecting solid to stranded too. however, you get a better connection using a wire nut when you line up the stranded wire about 1/8 inch or so longer than the solid.
Photovoltaic / Solar Thermal Technician here: stranded wire to solid wire has to be done correctly. stranded wire should not be parallel but 1/8 further than solid wire, then you put the wire nut. i too twist the wire so it doesn't pull. but that Wago on that application is *very nice* 👍
Good video I have never used them before but looks like it would be a good way to connect a volt ohm meter to a circuit when trouble shooting a circuit by placing the meter probes in one end of the device and the circuit wires in the other this would leave your hands free for other task. .
Another use is for smart switches. They take up a lot of space in the box and usually have stranded pigtail wire connections. Need a solid to stranded connection in a tight space.
I actually just picked up my first samples the other day and giving them a try. Initial impression is they look like a cheaper attempt by IDEAL to copy the WAGO 221 but willing to give them a go 👍
Just noticed that the 221-2401 is rated for 20-12 wire size where the 221-412 is rated for 24-12, so there may be a case where you would still need the 221-412 to get a good connection.
Have you ever done a test with waco connectors? Voltage and heat test ! I seen some people on RUclips do not like them. I like them a lot. I used use quick connections in the post office. I was a electronic technician
Several RUclips videos are out there and for both the Wagos and wire nuts the wires would melt and burst into flames well before either connector would fail. Also, someone did a strength pull test and the Wago would hold upwards of 25 ponds.
Wago is fine... probably the best bet for the home gamer. One should learn how to make a solid connection and properly size wire nuts as well. They are not going away any time soon.
Can you talk or comment on an example where you would be making such a connection in a metal box and how to go about grounding the box? Or you don't need to in this case?
The inline connector sound great. Is there any word if they are going to make an Inline connector with the ability to have the 2,3, or 5 connectors attached? I am running a BUSS wire and am using IDC connectors and they are a pain to use, but I need the branch circuits and the through wire.
How would this work as a temporary cap? Last time I was installing a lamp I needed something for the hardware store so I capped it with a wire nut. This does have an open side so would that not be advisable?
oversize hole in granite backsplash - you show a box accessory that made the hole smaller so the tab on the outlet would not fall into the hole where can i find the item used in the video
If you could, please do a video on "Sawdust Enhanced Concrete" I just heard of it, I'm gonna look more into it but it seems like it can be useful by first impressions.
there are no enclosures where this can be used effectively save for stacked square extensions/octagons, gutters, panels and some masonry boxes. A home gamer has very little to gain from a straight unless they are splicing in a gutter or a large enclosure. If you find you have less than 6 inches of conductor in a box you must remedy that per code, splices do not pass.
Great video, thanks for posting it. Questions: Up to what AWG size can WAGO connectors accommodate? Also, can WAGO connectors be used to splice 3 wires or more together? (such as the need to splice several ground wires together). Thanks, Richard
Pretty much anywhere with stranded cu wire, rewiring light fixtures, installing light fixtures, and on l*ve circuits to disconnect and hook up lighting. Great for pre-wiring receptacles with pigtails. Complete access to the screws and getting everything tightened up. They want pigtails now anyway. Sit down at a table, bench, whatever. Wire a bunch up the right way with the screws, no backstabbing, no worrying about tightening in the field. And then all you have do is hook up to the wires in the box with the Wagos, fold some wires, and screw everything down. The giant mass of ground wires. Several wires coming out from a junction box. Anywhere you don't want to use one of those giant wire nuts that, don't work really well. anyway. Short little wires in the back of the box. Old knob-and-tube wire, where you need to handle it as little as possible. Ceiling fans, machinery, etc where having a vibration resistant connector is good. Conductors of different gauges, and/or stranded, that don't twist together well. Shallow boxes and any other tight situation where flipping a lever is more convenient, where space is limited, or where manipulation might loosen a wire nut.
Electrician here: I usually don't use WAGO connectors due to cost, but there is one scenario in particular where they are a lifesaver. If for whatever reason you have a very short conductor inside of a box that's maybe 1-2 inches long, it is very hard to get a solid and reliable connection with a wirenut to extend that wire. The end to end connector is great for this scenario. (most often the case if drywallers knick your wire). Also works great if you have to do a splice in an LB
Great point, thanks for the feedback!
Wago is sooooo good for commoning 4 or more conductors to keep them nice and straight in the box. They are also a lifesaver for when you're high on a ladder working overhead to replace a light fixture. The splice is just so much faster and arguably superior, especially as light fixtures use stranded wire and I've always hated splicing stranded to solid using wirenuts.
I have a hard time accessing your store. My usual password doesn't work. Is there another way?
Same here. I personally prefer wire nuts for reasons I will not get into here (they cause arguments by people who prefer Wagos), but these are perfect for last resort wire extensions (in lower power applications) as you state.
Ideal makes a connector called SpliceLine that solves this problem.
If I’ve gotten nothing else from this channel, I got WAGO connectors. Greatest thing for me! Of course, there a many other reason I like this channel!
Right on! Thanks for the support 🙌
I've gotten a handfull of electric repaired calls over the years that were just failed wagos. . They weren't cooked or looked look like they had gotten moister... Just failed..I don't trust um. Don't use um
WAGO connectors and that special Milwaukee screwdriver for the receptacle screws for me.
I would still prefer the 2 wire connectors for light fixtures, but the breaker panel sounds like a good application. The one thing that I found them extremely valuable for was troubleshooting two different Lutron smart 3-way switches. I was quickly able to swap the switch around with the secondary accessory switch and get them working. Nothing is more annoying that doing and undoing wire nuts with stranded wires on smart switches. Would also be nice to one day see houses built with something like Wagos as it could make electrical work more plug and play if basically none of the copper wire was exposed.
Ever since I heard about wago connectors on youtube, I've been using them exclusively over wire nut. Definitely worth its cost.
The temporary light fixture is a great idea. I never used this product but seems it is a breakthrough. Thank you for sharing
You bet, definitely an upgrade from the default wire nut.
Crazy that you made a video on this cause I was browsing Amazon last Saturday and ordered these for upcoming light fixture upgrades. That light you were hanging are the same ones I ordered from Home Depot on Saturday as well... Thanks for all your tips.
Nice, great minds think alike.
I love these wago connectors! I recently installed a few light fixtures (ceiling fans, flush/semi flush mount lights etc) and these made install a breeze as some were replacement fixtures and some were new fixtures. I wish I had saw these single connectors before I started my project but that's on me! I have a few left over but if I were to need more I'm checking your Amazon store for sure! Thank you!
Great product update.
Also great for pigtailed extensions on short wires.
Hope Wago adds an in-line 3-in/ 6-out connector for splitting off from a branch line without needing to pull slack from existing line (e.g., cutting into an 12/3 to feed an additional 12/3 branch). Such things are available from their competitors, but I prefer Wago.
Those are so worth buying just for the temporary lighting. Thanks for keeping us updated with your videos.
The Wago lever type connectors are IMHO the best option for stranded wire. The lever on the sheet metal conductor inside the Wago flattens the strands out for a better connection, way better than wire nuts which were well demonstrated in this vid
The wires should have been pre twisted so the wire nut doesn’t push the stranded out.
Thanks to you making me aware of these a couple years back I used these to connect a 12v wiring harness to an FM repeater where the company that took it out of service cut the wires very close to the enclosure. It was such an easy and clean fix where you wouldn't ordinarily use a wire nut, you'd have to do some soldering and repair it like you did those cell phone charging cables. So it's not just good for high voltage. These buttsplice connectors would be even better.
I just recently used the line connectors for extending speaker wires. Very easy and solid connection. Much better than braiding and taping.
The temporary light is better than what I used to do. I would jus5 stick the wires into a plug to socket adapter and tape it in. Not particularly safe, so this is a much better idea. Thanks for the tip.
I sometimes use the inline connectors when making automotive wire repairs/additions. Especially for things like audio equipment, where components may be swapped out at a later date, and there’s little room for a crimping tool. For more permanent/weatherproof connections, I’ll side on a piece of shrink tubing over the connector.👍
I'm the electrical lead of one of my local highschool FRC robotics teams and we actually use these wagos a lot for our canbus connections. For our power connections we use Anderson powerpoles though.
Thanks for the feedback, I actually used to work on CANbus daily. Used to take a TON of data on Caterpillar heavy equipment. Was a data 🤓 for many years.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs impressive, just like the rest of your channel
So agree on the Wagos being a live saver. Just changed a light switch and the old one had really short wires screwed to it (house was built in 1910 and it's knob and tube wiring). Wagoed (spell check says it is a word) the K&T onto some extensions made from Romex scraps.
As for the inline splices, I have not yet used them but one spot I can see them being handy is on a portable stereo I have. The charger cord fatigued where the charger's barrel plug entered the stereo's charging port. Spliced a new plug onto the cord but since I suck at soldering, used the old school Wago's to make the connections. (wish Wago made something that had four ports but the bus bar was broken in the middle)
Love the Wago’s, when you have a 4 square box with 2 outlets in the middle of a run that’s a lot of ground wires and multiple wire nuts to make it all up. I don’t need to tell you that takes up a lot of space, gets kinda tight in there 😅. One thing, I also put a bit of tape around the levers just as a precaution.
Electrical tape across the levers is brilliant and everyone should do it actually 🙂
i use these for testing lights for buzzing/humming with varying dimmers and overall light/dimmer functionality. you should too.
Great tip, I have started using these since I watched an earlier video of yours and they have made my wiring project much easier! Thanks
Had to replace both wireing looms that go to the trunk in my BMW e61 Touring. You have to cut the old looms right behind the hinch above the speakers on the roof laying on your back. Both looms had about 15 individual wires. I have a bad back an they where a lifesaver in that monent. I know they are not really meant to be used in cars but it´s been almost a year and everything works fine. No malfunctions, no error messages .
Excellent ! I added the in-lines based on your previous video. I needed to upgrade a couple of receptacles in very tight outlet boxes where the leads weren't a full 6 inches. But I know they will come in handy for the other applications mentioned. At the time i couldn't find a reasonably small quantity of the 12 Ga ( 221-2401 supports 20-12 AWG solid, 18-12 AWG stranded). So i bought the 14Ga (221-2411 supports Solid 20-14 , Stranded 18…14 ). I don't really understand why they bother to make the 14 Ga, so make sure you buy the right ones
Good question on the 14 gauge. I think maybe those are targetted a bit more to markets running 240V for most fixtures which would lower the standard current and increase the use of 14 gauge. 🤷♂️ I think for the US market now that the product is more available 2401 is the go to but there for about 12 months 2401 and 2411 were really tough to get in the states.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs good evening,
Dude where do you purchase your wago?
Used the Wago's this past weekend ... They're awesome ... Thx for all you do ...
You bet, thanks for the support!
Scott, I just ordered some of the 6-series because there are some 10ga wires I need to use for long home runs. But I also ordered some of Wago's 2773 connectors for two reasons:
1) I wanted a few 4-conductor, 6-conductor, and 8-conductor options that don't exist in the 221 lineup.
2) If you're "designing as you go" --- maybe because it's not yet clear where and how you can run lines in a renovation --- and want temporary use of a circuit or otherwise have not finalized all your home runs and feeder runs, you can finish up with the non-level 2773 style and save quite a bit of money.
Supposedly you CAN remove a solid wire from a 2773 connector with a twist and pull, for the inevitable times when that'll be needed. But hey, especially for things like junction boxes, you shouldn't really need to build in disconnects anyway. The only downside is that Wago has not yet released a larger version of the 2773's that will accommodate 10ga.
An 8 conductor wago seems unnecessary, 8 hot, neutral, and grounds is 24 wires and a standard box is only allowed 9 14 awg wires. Or 8 12 awg. Just keep that in mind when neprking on your project, good luck
@@billy9075 Hi Billy. I have several metal J-boxes, at 4 11/16" by 2 1/8". These are represented in the 314.16(a) chart of standard sizes. The NEC says these are 42 cu in boxes.
In one example, I'll use 14ga for short runs to 7 room receptacles fed by a long 10ga home run. 14 hots and 14 neutrals of 14ga = 28 cu in, and the two 10ga conductors = 5 cu in. Add another 2 cu in to represent the largest (10ga) ground (the other grounds aren't counted; all grounds = "1 conductor") and I'm still under 36 cu in, with room to spare for the splicer. :)
I really like the WAGO Lever nuts and use them on a fairly regular basis.
I liked your well organized test and presentation!
Well done!
I used them to quickly extend the antenna on my remote controlled gate. Saved me a few minutes in the south texas heat using wire nuts.
That's what I've been using now they are nice specially when you have a bunch of wires you accidently cut or rewiring someone else's mess and aren't positive to connections are what in a wiring harness
For me I want to put in a Reliance generator transfer switch on a few critical loads in my house. This requires you to remove the black hot from the breaker, route it over to the transfer box, and then return to the breaker. The transfer box comes with the wires to/from the box, but you still have to connect it to the original black hot somehow. These inline Wago's seem like the perfect item to do that.
I used six inline Wago connectors in my breaker panel when I put a generator transfer switch in. 2 connectors for extending the neutral and ground to the terminal bars, 4 to connect one side of each transfer switch to the load circuits.
That's where they really shine. I always hated the loop back from using the standard Wagos, or even wire nuts. The inline connectors make it simple, and it just looks better.
I also use them for pulling circuits from my breaker box to a sub panel that is powered by solar.
I like the concept of the inline and your second and third use cases, but the first use case, if we're talking in a box, I would think the standard connector uses less space when you tuck it back in.
I recently ordered a starter kit before they offered the inline, so I just bought the 20-piece from your list. Thank you!
The Wago connectors are absolutely the best way to connect solid house wiring to stranded fixture wires.
💯
wagos are great like you said, espec. if you plan on adding a circuit later on
👍
I added some inline Wagos for garage door opener sensors. The sensors don't come with much wire so needed to splice them into a longer wire to then run to the opener itself. Since it's 18 guage wire, the Wagos were perfect for this.
I'm getting ready to install an opener and was just wondering if these would work for that purpose. Thank you!
I like these a lot, after I saw videos on them I bought a couple of boxes of each size and replaced all of my wire nuts in junction boxes etc in my house that I installed years ago
The 613 was a huge lifesaver for me seeing it can do 10 AWG. and the inline splice I made a test cord for myself.
Great video EHR. I was wondering about those. I purchased a kit and some refills on your Amazon store, but I haven't had occasion for those yet. They seemed to me that it would be "longer" and take up more room, however, the use, especially in a circuit breaker panel box would be ideal. Running out of room myself but need to replace 2 breakers. Thinking of staying with 15 amps even though I've upgraded the wiring to 12 / 2 with ground and am using 20 amps outlets... I will be glad when 14 gauge is no more. Getting tired of rewiring houses. Hope one day I can have a house built to my specs. All 12/2 instead of 14/2 and I am also considering an extra wire just for grounding the box itself to bond with the panel. The less splices, the better. Having all wires connect directly to a socket receptacle, or light fixture or switch, all the better too. Without pigtails even on grounds. Hell just make them all isolated grounds so you're ensured that electronics and stereo equipment is properly grounded regardless of where connected.
Yeah, depending on the application I bounce between the inline splice (2401) and the standard 412 WAGO lever nut.
If you're using 12/2 why use 15 amp breakers? There's no up side, I'd go with 20 amp breakers and 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacles. 20 amp receptacles offer no advantage either.
@@surferdude642 Because I haven't yet upgraded the breakers. If it isn't broken, I don't want to fix it. 2o amps receptacles allow for a weird plug, which I actually had on a computer power supply unit I had many moons ago. While I haven't encountered them since, I like to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
@@michaeljavert4635 Ok then, but keep in mind that equipment that uses a 20 amp plug is extremely rare and if you ever come across one it's likely to be a fixed appliance and/or require a dedicated circuit meaning a single 20 amp receptacle, not the common duplex.
As a master electrician and the safety supervisor for an electrical contractor I'll say this. We don't use WAGOs. We hate them. I've seen more than a few fire jobs where wagos were used and not installed correctly. Its really easy to not seat the wire properly causing arching or have it pop out entirely.
Thanks, That was a real nice informative video.
I really like those inline ones.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I just ordered 60 of them today!
@@davidh.8513 👊
I just bought the 10 awg one. It is so hard to twist those wires together, much easier to use the wago
I have been using their push ins for years but these are a step above. I tried them and am hooked. I wish they would make a six bay connector. I just bought the splice connectors which will be very useful and easier to use over the push in version.
Scott, some commenters on here mention Wago 2773s. Would be great to see these added to your test to see how they hold up.
On your pull test for stranded/solid connection under a wire nut, past experience seems to result in better pull test results when the stranded wire is inserted into the wire nut and the stranded wire is bottomed out, firmly seated in the end of the nut before placing the solid conductor. However, the Wago really takes the potential concern out of the installation when stranded wire is part of the install.
Life is getting easier!
They look like a good option to use.
i love wago when connecting solid to stranded too. however, you get a better connection using a wire nut when you line up the stranded wire about 1/8 inch or so longer than the solid.
Solid to stranded very important
Photovoltaic / Solar Thermal Technician here: stranded wire to solid wire has to be done correctly. stranded wire should not be parallel but 1/8 further than solid wire, then you put the wire nut. i too twist the wire so it doesn't pull. but that Wago on that application is *very nice* 👍
Good video I have never used them before but looks like it would be a good way to connect a volt ohm meter to a circuit when trouble shooting a circuit by placing the meter probes in one end of the device and the circuit wires in the other this would leave your hands free for other task. .
All WAGOs actually have built in test ports where you can just test with the connector in place using a standard probe
I hate doubling back on wires. Often the electrons get clogged up in the curved part
Love these connections my go to now in my project
Nice 🙌
I have single bulb fixtures on alligators clips for temp lighting. I like the Wagos better.
super handy 👍
Wago for the WIN
Another great video Scott. Love all of yours. Thanks
Thanks so much for the support 👍
Not gonna lie, these Wago connector are a good life saver.
I have been using these WAGO connectors and like them. Could you do a video on the different colors they offer and what they stand for?
Another use is for smart switches. They take up a lot of space in the box and usually have stranded pigtail wire connections. Need a solid to stranded connection in a tight space.
For sure, nice add!
Ideal also has lever connectors. Called Insure. Don’t have to open the lever to insert wires. Sold at Home Depot too.
I actually just picked up my first samples the other day and giving them a try. Initial impression is they look like a cheaper attempt by IDEAL to copy the WAGO 221 but willing to give them a go 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Not a cheap knock off. I think you’ll be impressed with the quality.
These are a total game changer!!!
Amen
Just ordered the 90, thanks!
Boom 👊 Enjoy!
Ok, I’m in ! No more wire nuts.
Welcome to the team 😁
Thank you.
You bet 👍
Can these WAGO connectors be re-used? For example, if replacing a ceiling fan?
One thing to keep in mind about wire nuts is they are TECHNICALLY considered single use. WAGO can be reused.
Just noticed that the 221-2401 is rated for 20-12 wire size where the 221-412 is rated for 24-12, so there may be a case where you would still need the 221-412 to get a good connection.
Have you ever done a test with waco connectors? Voltage and heat test ! I seen some people on RUclips do not like them. I like them a lot. I used use quick connections in the post office. I was a electronic technician
Several RUclips videos are out there and for both the Wagos and wire nuts the wires would melt and burst into flames well before either connector would fail. Also, someone did a strength pull test and the Wago would hold upwards of 25 ponds.
Yours eyes are so cool! Mine are like yours but blue, my wife always says they stand out.
Great news real WAGO finally made a copy of Chinese wago copy.
Wago is fine... probably the best bet for the home gamer. One should learn how to make a solid connection and properly size wire nuts as well. They are not going away any time soon.
That shirt is great. Please tell me it finishes with “tape their receptacles” or something
Absolutely LOVE this little puppies!!! I've bought a variety for different scenarios at home (DIY) stuff.
Can you talk or comment on an example where you would be making such a connection in a metal box and how to go about grounding the box? Or you don't need to in this case?
I picked up a box just for use as extensions when wires are too short. Perfect application for them.
The inline connector sound great. Is there any word if they are going to make an Inline connector with the ability to have the 2,3, or 5 connectors attached? I am running a BUSS wire and am using IDC connectors and they are a pain to use, but I need the branch circuits and the through wire.
Can the be used on outdoor sconce fixtures without a box?
How would this work as a temporary cap? Last time I was installing a lamp I needed something for the hardware store so I capped it with a wire nut. This does have an open side so would that not be advisable?
I would use a WAGO 221-412 which is just the standard 2-wire lever nut
@@EverydayHomeRepairs good to know. Thanks!
Unfortunately, I have an old house I have a aluminum wiring should I pigtail and use these connectors to replace an outlet
4:18 A 100 watt LED bulb?! The most I've seen in stores (in my country) is 20 something watt (~2,000 lumen).
How do you recommend splicing/connecting 2/4/6 awg wires? (Eg for EV charger)
I purchased the battery screwdriver you recommended in a video. Can you use bits other than the long dual end that comes with it?
oversize hole in granite backsplash - you show a box accessory that made the hole smaller so the tab on the outlet would not fall into the hole where can i find the item used in the video
I've often wondered why there wasn't a butt connector for 110v.
If you could, please do a video on "Sawdust Enhanced Concrete" I just heard of it, I'm gonna look more into it but it seems like it can be useful by first impressions.
if installing a new circut and my ground bus bar is full can I do an inline splice with the ground wire
Are these rated for high power
Scott is a stealth Wago marketing employee. Lol
No doubt, I need a raise 😂
Hi: Can I use the single wire connector to repair my 12 gauge extension cord?
Wago now makes connectors designed to attach to electronic circuit boards (like the kind you find in your computer, not in the walls). Pretty neat.
there are no enclosures where this can be used effectively save for stacked square extensions/octagons, gutters, panels and some masonry boxes. A home gamer has very little to gain from a straight unless they are splicing in a gutter or a large enclosure. If you find you have less than 6 inches of conductor in a box you must remedy that per code, splices do not pass.
What if the stranded wire doesn’t fit in the connector and a few strands won’t go in?
If you know how to properly wrap a solid & stranded wire together, there is no problem with a wire nut pulling off.
Great video, thanks for posting it.
Questions: Up to what AWG size can WAGO connectors accommodate? Also, can WAGO connectors be used to splice 3 wires or more together? (such as the need to splice several ground wires together).
Thanks, Richard
Do you also use the Wago's on outdoor porch or wall lights?
Can you figure out how to get the Wago gel boxes over here? I'd love to use these for my outdoor lighting instead of those awful goo-filled wire nuts.
Wago vs Ideal connectors?
why don't they have an 2401 inline for 10AWG or a 10AWG 4 wire? those are the ones I need.
Wish WAGO made something for 6/3 wire.
Nice
Pretty much anywhere with stranded cu wire, rewiring light fixtures, installing light fixtures, and on l*ve circuits to disconnect and hook up lighting.
Great for pre-wiring receptacles with pigtails. Complete access to the screws and getting everything tightened up. They want pigtails now anyway. Sit down at a table, bench, whatever. Wire a bunch up the right way with the screws, no backstabbing, no worrying about tightening in the field. And then all you have do is hook up to the wires in the box with the Wagos, fold some wires, and screw everything down.
The giant mass of ground wires. Several wires coming out from a junction box. Anywhere you don't want to use one of those giant wire nuts that, don't work really well. anyway.
Short little wires in the back of the box.
Old knob-and-tube wire, where you need to handle it as little as possible.
Ceiling fans, machinery, etc where having a vibration resistant connector is good.
Conductors of different gauges, and/or stranded, that don't twist together well.
Shallow boxes and any other tight situation where flipping a lever is more convenient, where space is limited, or where manipulation might loosen a wire nut.
Nice list 👍 Thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate the help!
can I install AFCI/GFCI recepticles in every outlet in a older home that has open ground ?
Most common use of these, for me, is cleaning up jerks who shove 2 or 3 wires on one terminal in electrical outlets and making clean connections.
O heard your comment about their use in an electrical pannel. Can these Inline wagos be used in wall without a junction box?
If I wore a shirt like that, people would invite me over to do electrical work for them.
Get them while they last everyday-home-repairs.creator-spring.com/listing/don-t-tape-outlets-t-shirt
I just recently started putting 20 layers of 130C tape on my receptacles just to piss off the anti tapers😅