Wago Connectors Compared | What Wire Connectors Are The Best?
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2024
- In this video i will be comparing wire connectors and we will check out what wago connectors are best. We will also look at how to use the wagobox junction box. If you like the content leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.
Product Links Below;
Wagobox Junction Box - amzn.to/3EuSbKe
Wago Connector Set - amzn.to/3nEP6R1
Wago 221 Connector Set - amzn.to/3BsdjyT
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Funny story, I had access to a tensiometer machine a few years back and we tested a wago 222 connector. We wern't supposed to but we had a play on it during our lunch break. We used a bit of tinned 1.5mm multicore wire and clamped it into the wago connector.
We then put it into the tensiometer and let her rip.
We applied 80kg of force to the wire before it finally let go!
That's like hanging a washing machine from it! very impressive.
Todd would agree!!
I installed three Sunco 4 Inch Ultra Thin LED lights in my kitchen above the sink. The light units only last several months before they radically dim. It was a pain to replace all three lights the other day because the one in the middle has 2 sets of 4 wires under wire nuts. I want to thank you for your video because it shows you can release the lever if you need to pull a wire loose. This will make it so much easier to replace the lights in the future.
Excellent video, need to remove piping and cut electrical wires ready for my steel beam to go in then re route and join again. This really helped me 👍🏼👌
So well explained and the Wago lever method is the one I will use along with the Box thing.Thank you
Thanks for the comments 👍
I've been using wago 221's for the last few years and wouldn't go back to anything else. The amount of time they save easily outweighs the extra cost. Great video as usual
Absolutely. Thanks for the comments!
I couldn't agree more, I rarely get into doing electrics but when I do, the Wago 221's are excellent for all the reasons you've stated.
Lets be honest they aren't even that expensive. £20 for a box of 50 3-ways.
The amount of time you'll save faffing around with the screw in type connectors is well worth the extra expense. Plus it actually makes a job enjoyable, rather than a pain. Not a fan of the push connectors because you can't undo them.
Great tips
( Those Wago Lever connectors are EXACTLY what I need to wire in my Ham Radio Transceiver in my Truck )
Cheers 🤗
Glad it helped
Amazing comparisons, thanks for the pros and cons
These wire connections are brilliant saves so much time I'm pleased I'm watching your videos .
Thanks for watching
Fantastic video, I am beginner at electrical, but my old man is an electrical engineer, I feel like a pain in the ass calling for his help so finding something like this really helps. I recently bought 4 x10w floodlights from amazon with the intention of connecting as many as I can per plug, I couldn't visualise how it was done until I seen this. For the record the lights are being fitted above aquariums. And will eventually all run off a timer.
Thanks a lot glad it helps
Your comparison videos are really helpful, thanks
Glad you like them 👍
Helped me make up my mind. Thanks for posting.
Glad it was helpful
Learning loads from your channel - you explain things really clearly and always cover the topic thoroughly. Will get some of these in the DIY arsenal as they will come in handy. You have given me the confidence to give electrical tasks around the house a go - keep up with the great videos, look forward to more. Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks, I'm glad you like the channel and it's helping you learn.
Very clear and simple. Great video
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful comparison thank you. Wago kit ordered 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant was looking for comparisons this video hits the spot
Glad you find the video helpful
Thanks for sharing your expertise many taskers don't like to talk during an estimate or explain things to novices .thumbs up 😅
Found the wago 221's last year, best thing ever, so easy
They are very good 🙂
Just what I needed to know. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful ! Thank you.
Brilliant as usual. Thanks for another sensible and useful topic (others please note!) 👍
Thanks I'm glad you enjoy my videos! And if there's anything else in particular you'd like to see please let me know.
Love watching your videos very helpful thank you
You are so welcome
I prefer the 221 for the visibility and the compactness.
What I like about the chocolate block is the hole (where you snap them) in the middle that you can use a screw in the middle to secure down.
More often than not, the plastic used for choc blocks is soft and does not snap. This soft plastic is also more likely to become very brittle over many years and can simply fall off the inner metal joint.
Brilliant video, really helpful. I am fitting an in-line extractor fan in my attic, which I need to connect to my lighting circuit, I was dreading fitting a connector block as they are hard t to to, I have just ordered these off the back of your video, thank you 🙏
Glad it helped
Really useful information thank you. I want to extend the power cord on some table lamps and will definitely use the wagos.
Glad it was helpful!
I used two 5 gang Wago lever connectors on my motorbike to wire in accessories. I used a switched live to one block and earth terminal to the other block. They are low profile making them ideal for wiring in accessories under the seat on a motorcycle. I think they are fantastic.
Excellent idea about wiring under the motorcycle seats I have some of these I'm going to work on my wife's trike, she needs some cleaning up under there
It's look very easy. I'll use that wago connectors. Thank's
Anytime
Wago is the connector I've mostly used. Excellent.
Brilliant m8 I've just started to use these wago connectors they are awesome 👌
Yes they are! Thanks
good explanation DIY Guy
great info. thanks for sharing
Thanks a bunch
Hi mate ,
Fantastic bit of information , nice one 👍
Hi, glad you enjoyed it. If there's anything else you'd like to see please let me know 👍
Nice video. I generally use uninsulated Ferrules on stranded cable. makes for a more solid connection and easier to terminate.
Very well done!
Thank you very much!
Great video man
Thanks, glad you liked it
Didn’t even know block connectors existed. Looks so much easier👍
👍
thanks for sharing the knowledge, would be good to hear your views on waterproof connection options! :)
The grey lever connectors are my favorite, they clamp harder than the transparent ones and can tollerate more moisture before they fail. I use these a lot in the automotive work since they can and will be outside a vehicle in boxes under the cars etc, even inside a caravan during winter you will get a lot of condensation during winter and I never needed to replace a grey one but many times the transparent ones. however both are good and beyond if you compare to a sugar cube or even just flat pin connectors as they often use in the HV terminals as well inside these vehicles. caravans are a complete jungle of standards when you compare to houses and everyone uses everything they get their hands on for the cheapest price without a care in the world
👍
They look so easy to use!
They are 😊
Hi, just want to add, for stranded(flexible) cables, only the 221 are suitable as is. For the screwed terminal blocks and most connectors with screws(there are some exemptions) you really need wire end ferrules for a good secure connection, or soldering for direct connection to printed circuit board and such. The 2nd type connector you showed are really just for solid wires.
The 222 as well
@@IAmThe_RA and 224 for lights 👍
The second can be used for stranded wire as well. Not fine-stranded though.
thanks for the video
Your welcome 👍
Awesome Video
- It is often not clear what the current carrying capacity of the screw terminals is. This is often only 1 or 2 amps.
- Push fit connectors are not approved for flexible wires. The wire can be removed by twisting.
- With lever clamps, a rigid wire can be inserted without opening the lever. If the wires are flexible, the lever must be opened.
But the disadvantage is that these are only suitable up to 4mm ² and 32A.
There is also the larger 221 variant up to 6mm² and 41A
Total nonsense
You can also put things like resistors between two inline wago 221s.
Brilliant video 🎉
Thanks 😀
Great demonstration
There was a bare wire showing coming out of one of the primary gray lg wires?😊
Great video
Glad you found it helpful
Super vlog again, for stranded if I have no other solution I use bootlace ferrules/ends wroks for me or would have to use a choc bloc
👍
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
My favourite are the Wago 221, use them all the time. Realistically they are not that expensive when you look at time saved
Absolutely. Time is money 💰
Thank you
You're welcome
The lever WAGO's are the best for lighting because at a light fitting you often have solid core and multi strand cable of different sizes so you can easily terminate a 1.5 mm and a 0.75mm in different terminals within the same connector block
👍
Thanks. 👍
Your welcome 👍
Hi great video very informative,
Does the junction box except larger connectors, 3/4 way connecting blocks .
Thanks.
Hi. Thanks. Yes they do.
Thanks
Your welcome
I’m not sure if the 222 Wago does this but I know the 221 have a nice feature where you don’t even have to lift the lever to insert your cable. You can just push solid core in and they’ll lock and only release with the lever. Love this feature.
👍
You should open the lever especially with stranded. If you watch WAGO 221 ad you are advised to open the lever before inserting conductor.
@initial post the 222 does not have that feature. you must open the Lever for every type of Wire.
@@IAmThe_RA The Manual for the 221 specifiaclly states that you can use them like push-in connectors for solid Wire (but only for these)
Thanks Mate..!! Gave a like ✍)))
Thank you too!
Have you guidance on the most effective solution for splitting 1 to 4 for stranded for cables in a rack (not inwall)? I've a task that needs a splitter cable as a distribution panel will not fir.
I definitely agree on the issues with screw down on stranded. Still need screws on the plug terminations however at least I can twist and then bend double for those.
There's something about the wago connectors that most people seem not noticing. It is: when you intend to test their terminals for voltage, it's almost impossible to do this, when the terminals are possibly live.
every wago connector has at least one hole specifically for inserting test probes (they just provide accass to an voltage carrying part, but dont clamp down on the test leads)
For the 222s is is the rectangular hole above the Levers,
for the push-ins there is a round hole on the opposite side where the wires are inserted.
In case of the 221s they have at least two test lead holes - one is next to the holes for the Wire, and the other is on the opposite side
Yes
I found out the hard way that twisted wires don;t engage in the push fits on the job. I wish screwfix mentioned this on their sales page and saved my money.
Absolutely
Go Wago-go-go! Game changers,
I used wago connectors when I replaced my mates bathroom light. Never again will I have to stand on a ladder connecting up wires in chocolate box connectors and wishing I had a third hand. The only annoyance is having to make the hole in the ceiling bigger to take the junction box.😊
Stranded wire in the bus bar type should have a ferrule crimped on the wire before putting it in the terminal and tightening the screw.
The push in Ideal and Wago's style connectors are also reusable. Twist back and forth while pulling on the wire. It will come out. The thin stranded wires can be tinned with solder and they will push in easily.
The WAGO connector without the lever can actually be disconnected by twisting and pulling 😊
Wago the best. All your videos are the best
Thanks
The lever connectors are brilliant.
They certainly are
The stranded wire should be used with ferrule. If the ferrule is used then there is no problem using a stranded cable with Wago PushWire connectors like 773 or 2273.
Wago 221 for life.
I might be old school but electrically, for cables above 1.5 I think that two cables both long enough to have 2 screws biting down on them in an appropriate size connector block is a better connection. This way you end up with copper against copper which must be better than copper-wago spring-wago spring-copper. I'd welcome feedback on this.
Just FYI: the Spring in the Wago Connectors is never designed to carry current, it is purely to provide the necessary tension to push the wire against the bus bar (which is made from Copper afaik)
also screw terminals screw up the wire. especially if you over-torque them.. (if you torque them to maximum compression and have temperature cycles you might end up with a loose connection: when the connection expands it has to shove the material to the sides, and since it was compressed to the maximum before the copper lost its elasticity so when it cools down and shrinks you now have a tiny gap)
Although the Wagos appear to be good I’m very sceptical about long term use . Just a bit of plastic and a springy bit of steal . Time will tell
I've never had an issue but I value your opinion and concerns 👍
you forgot about the Copper Bus Bar.. the springy bit of Steel is only to push the wire against said bus bar but it is not intended to carry the current.
And how long is long term for you? cause we are currently at almost 50 Years since Market Introduction of the original Wago 273
Great video. I'm currently putting up a stud wall away from a party wall to reduce sound coming from the neighbours. Will need to bring the existing electrical cabling through the partition wall and fit a surface mounted electrical socket on the new wall. Would the push fit connector be okay? The junction will be in the gap between the existing party wall and the first layer of plasterboard. Hope that makes sense Cheers
Wago connectors can be used in “maintenance free” situations such as your stud wall where access will not be available later. However, there are some conditions firstly you cannot simply leave the wires and conductors just loose in the cavity, they need to be in an enclosure ie. a Wago box. If using a Wago box you need to seal it with a cable tie through the loop provided. Furthermore if the circuit is a ring circuit there is only one Wago push fit type of connector you are allowed to use the code escapes for the moment but it is detailed on the instruction sheet that comes with the Wago box.
So for example, let’s say I want to create a socket a meter above my current one, I’d have to use 3 wire connector, and just plug “main”live and two “new” lives, and that too for neutral and ground?
I have a 3 gang light switch. There's so many wires back up in there. Can I use a wago 221 5pin connector to, for example, utilize 1 single neutral wire into it, and 3 wires out of the wago 221 into the 3 switches? Same with 1 ground going in, 3 grounds coming out to the switches? And same with the hot? 1 in, 3 out? If I can, what do I do with the old wires in the box?
Nothing beats soldering period.
How would you choose between the Wago 221 and 222 connectors? Ie how do you know which one to select?
221 is smaller and clear bodied. This helps eliminate mistakes and saves you space inside a junction box.
Are there any options for fixing the connectors to a housing? Instead of leaving them loose, I am looking for alternatives to the old fashioned black colored two way screw type terminal blocks
The wagobox and lighting wagobox are great for this
Which amp connector block would you recommend for 1mm lighting cable? Im installing downlights. Would 15A connector blocks be ok? Or are they too big??
Hi, 15a will be fine 👍
If you were changing a light fixture and using the wago connectors, is it safe to just tape them as you would with a traditional junction, or do you need to put the wago connectors in the wago box? Just seems like the wago box would be huge and i’d need to cut a hole in my ceiling to put it in!
The best thing to use is a wago lighting box. It is a lot smaller than the standard wagobox
Hiya great video!! Can you comment or do a video on wago or ideal jbs/ connectors used to tackle maintenance free applications on radial circuits/ final ring circuits only the right choice of jbs/ connectors! Lightings fine all low amps ! What step up on final ring and radial ? ? Bit misty here ! Cheers catch ya soon/ bob
Great suggestion! Thanks
I only go with the Wago lever connectors, now.
I do in most applications
Some of the Wago push fit connectors are only for solid wire, and others take solid or stranded.
You didn’t mention that Wagos can be used in inaccessible locations as there are no screws to come loose. Also the spring type are not reusable.
Correct, Wagos can be used, as long as in a box. inside stud walls where they are not accessible. Any screwed connection must be accessible.
At least for Wago they are reuseable. Just pull the Wire you want to remove and twist it in alternating directions. Though the amount of reuses is limited (i wouldnt reuse one with unkown history) it does work.
(obviously only works for solid wire, not for stranded, but the push ins are only intended for solid wire anyway)
He did mention they are very easy to use in confined space
I think the cheap ones are fine. They also take up way less space.
The colors for the Wago terminals are:
double = white
triple = orange
quadruple = red
quintuple = yellow
octuple = white
Can you unmount the ideal connectors? I would assume if your couldnt, it would be in the cons of them? I would really like to know if they can be or not, i thiught i spotted a slot for an electrical driver to be inserted, perhaps for dismounting?
if you refer to push fits and if its like wagos that slot is for inserting test probes. You remove single wires from them by pulling on it and twisting in alternating directions, and with each twist you pull it out a tiny bit more
Wago👍
Stranded wire use bootlace ferrules better connection on any connector block
The wago lever connector is the way to go
👍
Are you from Norfolk? & @4:25 put a Ferrell/bootlace on it
This info is not available on the wago site. In this form anyway. Or I could not find it. Thanks.
I've recently started replacing all of the sockets and switches in my house and I've had one troublesome one in the kitchen. It's an inch from the ceiling above the cooker (used for the extractor fan) and so trying to put the new socket on is hurting my brain.
The cables are really short, they won't stay seated in the terminals because I'm having to twist everything just to get the screwdriver in, and twisting it back pulls them out.
Would the lever connectors be the best option to extend the cables and get a quick, safe connection? Also what size/rating should I use?
sounds like a perfect fit for the wago 221-2411 to extend the wires. although a 3way might be be better if you have more than one cable in there (just a tiny bit less ideal to use, if you have the option)
Is it possible to buy a pack of wago connectors that would cater for a number of different tasks like for lighting jobs
Sure is 👍
Terminal strips do need to be used by adults because there is always access to live conductors via the screw holes when in use. Other than that they are cheap and cheerful and have been in sucessful use for years.
They should be installed inside an 'outer box' so this isn't an issue.
Brilliant Insight ...!!!
Do you use the same WAGO connectors for 1.5mm & 10.5mm cables? I know connector strips vary in size for different gauges of cable.
Wago specifies the 221 for 0.2 to 4 mm^2 wire. 24 - 12 AWG.
There is also a (rail mounted) type that goes from 0.5 - 16 mm^2, (20 - 6 AWG)
At 2:40 the push fit wago... How do you get the wire out again after if you need to?
Thanks.
When using pushfit wagos you can twist and pull the cable to release it.
@@TheDIYGuy1 ahh thanks. Mine is bent over like a U shape crimped? For single wires. Will that work..?!
Is it allowed to use wago in UK? He in Brasil it bacame so popular then soccer. I have some untrustness on this connector wago, its main piace that hold the wire in place is a sprim. My fear is to pass of time this sprim may fail and cause fire deal a loose conection.
That's not how we use the terminal connectors in Spain, here, we use a much bigger connector than the section of the cable that we need to connect, for example if you're connecting 3 2,5mm2 cables, then you would use a 16mm2 connector. You simply twist the copper of the cables together and you put it in the connector, but you must make sure that BOTH screws are holding the connection in place. And of course, once the job is done, you give it a tug, and it should not be loose, and of course, there should be no copper strands loose... Considering the price, I think the "chocolate" connectors are the best, obviously, when used properly, and primarily for threaded cable. IMO.
I think the block connectors are the beat and cheapest
Situation dependant but certainly the cheapest
Maybe in the UK, but not in North American junction boxes.