This a great video, I have a 100 series 4.2, it was driving fine, parked up, then the morning after, would not start, not even try, I checked everything, and no fuel coming out of the injector pipes at the pump, so I swap the injector pump, it cam complete with the spill valve and still has no injection out when I loosen pipes, the spill valve is working.
Haha, I had almost the same problem! With my HDJ100 it was a simple loose contact on the connector socket/plug for the injection pump. But that's how it is with these loose contacts... sometimes they are there, sometimes not, and therefore difficult to reproduce and find. In the case of my HDJ100, it initially only manifested itself in the fact that it started worse and worse, and then that the engine repeatedly stopped. First it started after a few seconds, then minutes. Until the restart went worse and worse, until it didn't start at all. In the meantime I replaced the pump head on the diesel filter, I checked all the lines, I almost replaced the injection pump. Until I wiggled the cable at some point. Then it was clear where the problem was.
bonne nouvelle juste a ressoudé les files electrique, moi j'ai une fuite de gazole au niveau de la fiche electrique orange marron il y a un joint ici a changé ou cest plus complique ?? j aimerait avoir votre avis merci
good news just resoldered the electrical files, I have a diesel leak at the orange brown electrical plug there is a seal here has changed or is it more complicated?? I would like to have your opinion thank you
I have now ascertained there I have no power to the EDU which powers the spill valve. Next to check is the Spill Valve Relay which will be a nightmare to access.
Good luck with the fix. Under the large plastic cover on the pump, (if it’s still in place) there should be two wires running to the top of the spill valve on the pump. Try testing that for voltage (not sure what the voltage should be as the data I found said anything from 5 to 150 volts?)and or checking for continuity from and to the spill valve controller module. I removed the spill valve from the pump, and tested it.. I should no have done that as I had no idea how to test it. I put 12 volts to it and still no change. I didn’t really know what I was doing, just trying to eliminate or track down the issue.
Thanks for the detailed descriptions. It helped greatly. In my case the SCV wires are ok but I have no power to the white plastic connector ( another "valve"? on top of the pump) when the key is turned to ON position. Do you please know what it is called and what function it has?
You are not supposed to have any power to that plug as it is the engine speed sensor which is vital in conjunction with the crank sensor to determine when to power on the spill control valve which determines injection volume. Find the manual online and download it. It makes it much easier to fault search the system and also have detailed troubleshooting guides that would easily have determent the wire break Sean experienced. From the manual: The engine speed sensor is attached to the roller ring in the injection pump to detect the engine speed. The timing rotor is attached to the drive shaft. Missing 3 teeth at each of the 6 locations, the timing rotor generates a signal every 7.5° (crankshaft angle) with its 78 teeth.
@@Mr.Engineer. What a disappointment - I thought I managed to locate the problem. I have now managed to find and download the manual (using advanced search and one phrase from the manual cited by you). I will have to dive deeper into it. I wish it would be easier than that. Many thanks !!!!
@@janhonza4770 Electrical gremlins can often just be as pleasant as opening a can of worms 🙃 There are a few different manuals available online, you should get the largest ones with all pages as some of them just are a few pages on a specific topic. Follow the troubleshooting guide step by step and you will find your fault. Alternatively convert it to a fully mechanical pump and it will just run 😁 You will however need to also change the oil pump plate the pump mounts to as the mechanical pump has different mounting bolt spacing. A good tip to point you in the right direction is to get Techstream and read the fault code, that often leads you to the component/unit/sensor that is causing the fault. Tip again; it might not be the component giving the fault code faults, but a broken wire going to that component. The troubleshooting guide will help you to pin point the fault.
On my car the engine innitially stopped after some 5 minutes of driving and wouldn't start. It later started an hour later. This happened twice in a row. Prior to that I have noticed that a longer time cranking was required to start. After these 2 engine hut downs I had to go away and when I returned 2 months later batteries were completely drained (could not find why). After fixing the batteries they seem to hold ok but engine does not start.
I have a denso electronic pump on my year 2000 colorado 90 land cruiser. 1kzte engine. Vehicle sat idle for a year while i did a chassis repair. It now wont start. I replaced the spill valve but no better. Fuel is getting to the pump but not out the four injector ports. Im at a loss as to whats wrong. Any help appreciated. Paul in ireland.
@@pauleng883 just heard from my mate. He says, based on your diagnostics that it sounds like it’s a driver fault ( the gizmo that tells the spool valve what position it should be in) or wiring/ computer fault. Anything from throttle position sensor to computer not operating and or fault with a wire, like mine was. I spent about $1500 replacing parts only to find it was a crook wire. Damn frustrating these faults can be. Mind you, they are better wagons than the shite being churned out by manufacturers these days. Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on. Good luck.
This a great video, I have a 100 series 4.2, it was driving fine, parked up, then the morning after, would not start, not even try, I checked everything, and no fuel coming out of the injector pipes at the pump, so I swap the injector pump, it cam complete with the spill valve and still has no injection out when I loosen pipes, the spill valve is working.
Thanks mate, I'm walking down to the car to have a look fingers crossed this is my issue.
@@Rubibi-saltwaterjim try wiggling the wires and that plug. Try wiggling the spill valve wires as well. Good luck.
Haha, I had almost the same problem! With my HDJ100 it was a simple loose contact on the connector socket/plug for the injection pump. But that's how it is with these loose contacts... sometimes they are there, sometimes not, and therefore difficult to reproduce and find.
In the case of my HDJ100, it initially only manifested itself in the fact that it started worse and worse, and then that the engine repeatedly stopped. First it started after a few seconds, then minutes. Until the restart went worse and worse, until it didn't start at all.
In the meantime I replaced the pump head on the diesel filter, I checked all the lines, I almost replaced the injection pump. Until I wiggled the cable at some point. Then it was clear where the problem was.
Am having the same issue now,after replacing clutch plate,the engine won’t start pls help by sending me the line diagram.
bonne nouvelle juste a ressoudé les files electrique, moi j'ai une fuite de gazole au niveau de la fiche electrique orange marron il y a un joint ici a changé ou cest plus complique ?? j aimerait avoir votre avis merci
Hey mate,
Also from new zealand my scv is measuring 0.5 ohms and im pulling am engine code relating to it would you say its worth changing? Cheers
Mine was a wire, not the spill valve. I should have taken it to an auto sparky, but they were flat out for weeks..
My 1HD-FTE had a small problem. it’s coming white smoke only at 3000rpm and it doesn’t pass 3000 rpm. what do you think ?
Turbo.
good news just resoldered the electrical files, I have a diesel leak at the orange brown electrical plug there is a seal here has changed or is it more complicated?? I would like to have your opinion thank you
How are u getting on. Did u fix your issue?
I have a weakness in the car when you are in the sand you press the diesel pedal it does not respond
A cuantos voltios se alimenta la válvula, o cómo es la conexion..
I have now ascertained there I have no power to the EDU which powers the spill valve. Next to check is the Spill Valve Relay which will be a nightmare to access.
Good luck with the fix. Under the large plastic cover on the pump, (if it’s still in place) there should be two wires running to the top of the spill valve on the pump. Try testing that for voltage (not sure what the voltage should be as the data I found said anything from 5 to 150 volts?)and or checking for continuity from and to the spill valve controller module. I removed the spill valve from the pump, and tested it.. I should no have done that as I had no idea how to test it. I put 12 volts to it and still no change. I didn’t really know what I was doing, just trying to eliminate or track down the issue.
Thanks for the detailed descriptions. It helped greatly. In my case the SCV wires are ok but I have no power to the white plastic connector ( another "valve"? on top of the pump) when the key is turned to ON position. Do you please know what it is called and what function it has?
You are not supposed to have any power to that plug as it is the engine speed sensor which is vital in conjunction with the crank sensor to determine when to power on the spill control valve which determines injection volume.
Find the manual online and download it. It makes it much easier to fault search the system and also have detailed troubleshooting guides that would easily have determent the wire break Sean experienced.
From the manual:
The engine speed sensor is attached to the roller ring in the injection pump to detect the engine speed.
The timing rotor is attached to the drive shaft. Missing 3 teeth at each of the 6 locations, the timing rotor
generates a signal every 7.5° (crankshaft angle) with its 78 teeth.
@@Mr.Engineer. What a disappointment - I thought I managed to locate the problem. I have now managed to find and download the manual (using advanced search and one phrase from the manual cited by you). I will have to dive deeper into it. I wish it would be easier than that. Many thanks !!!!
@@janhonza4770
Electrical gremlins can often just be as pleasant as opening a can of worms 🙃
There are a few different manuals available online, you should get the largest ones with all pages as some of them just are a few pages on a specific topic.
Follow the troubleshooting guide step by step and you will find your fault.
Alternatively convert it to a fully mechanical pump and it will just run 😁
You will however need to also change the oil pump plate the pump mounts to as the mechanical pump has different mounting bolt spacing.
A good tip to point you in the right direction is to get Techstream and read the fault code, that often leads you to the component/unit/sensor that is causing the fault. Tip again; it might not be the component giving the fault code faults, but a broken wire going to that component.
The troubleshooting guide will help you to pin point the fault.
@@Mr.Engineer. Thanks again. I have actually started with Techstream but it showed no fault at all.
On my car the engine innitially stopped after some 5 minutes of driving and wouldn't start. It later started an hour later. This happened twice in a row. Prior to that I have noticed that a longer time cranking was required to start. After these 2 engine hut downs I had to go away and when I returned 2 months later batteries were completely drained (could not find why). After fixing the batteries they seem to hold ok but engine does not start.
Can driver spill valve control be repaired?
Not that I am aware. Deisel experts just say to replace it. Might be work taking apart and trying if yours is faulty?
هذا العطل يحدث كثير وكثير من الناس يتعب للحصول على حل المشكله بعد خسارة كثير من القطع والمشكله تكون من اهتراء السلك
Hope it is a easy fix for you.
I have a denso electronic pump on my year 2000 colorado 90 land cruiser. 1kzte engine. Vehicle sat idle for a year while i did a chassis repair. It now wont start. I replaced the spill valve but no better. Fuel is getting to the pump but not out the four injector ports. Im at a loss as to whats wrong. Any help appreciated. Paul in ireland.
@@pauleng883 hi Paul, I’ll ask a mate, who rebuilds pumps and injectors for a living. Hopefully he might have some knowledge. Will be in touch soon.
@@pauleng883 just heard from my mate. He says, based on your diagnostics that it sounds like it’s a driver fault ( the gizmo that tells the spool valve what position it should be in) or wiring/ computer fault. Anything from throttle position sensor to computer not operating and or fault with a wire, like mine was. I spent about $1500 replacing parts only to find it was a crook wire. Damn frustrating these faults can be. Mind you, they are better wagons than the shite being churned out by manufacturers these days. Hope that helps. Let me know how you get on. Good luck.
Ask your mate if the spill valve on the pump needs set. I have fitted a new spill valve.
I am convinced its an electrical issue. Do you know how I could test if the spill valve is getting a pulse? I dont think it is
Not start coaster 1 HD fte
I had e problem with my Toyota coaster 1hd fte engine not start
I have the same problem
Do u think it is that plug/wire problem that I had?
@@seanlittlefair105 no, it's the pressure sensor that's leaking diesel, I'm going to change the seal and I'll check