Me a very crotchety-ex-GM field engineer, JR is correct, pay attention to his information on torque, very important. I would emphasize the importance of a well made factory quality part. You are riding on the Wheel Hub so junky light weight pieces here are a recipe for disaster when you least expect or need it. If you do not know what you are doing or do not have the proper tools, get the needed well made tools and torque wrench and proper information. I use spray lube 24 hours to disassembly and let it soak over night. Spray it like you own the chemical company. I love my Chicago P, air 1/2" impact and use it on the dash if I could get it in there. I use a series of wobbly adapters and can take bolts out from across the yard with enough extensions. Remember that each extension added reduces your torque and changes the tightening turns and possibly the sequence. I always recheck the bolts the next day or after a 'stunt-girl' test drive. Sometimes in the day of repair, try to tighten the slightest amount on very rusty and then let it soak, then you can remove, use Loctite as required and spray lube as you may take it apart again in a couple years or a month if you are a stunt driver like me...keep the dirtysidedown, stungirl
Good video....but 2 things. 1. When installing the control arm....always start with the rear 1st. It is much easier to navigate where you need it to go. Also...you can use the bolt and the deep socket to line it up in the hole. No need to pry on anything. 2. You do not have to have pressure on the parts you are torquing. (The jack being under the ball joint) Machanics use Lifts more than not to do these types of repairs. As long as you are torquing it to spec...you are good.
For point 1- never use the bolt to line things up, you'll destroy your threads and be looking to replace those too. Using the pry bar gets you in the ballpark so it can wiggle into place and not have to be hammered in destroying your threads. That sounds like the commission-based 'get it out the door quick' method. For point 2 - If you torque the bolts in the full down position and not with the weight on the car the rubber in the bushing will fail much quicker because when weight is put on the car to regular ride height the rubber will twist. Mechanics may use lifts but they also have screw jacks to do this as well. If they aren't, then they are doing you a disservice looking for that repeat customer for a failed part down the road. Quality over quantity.
I love you're attitude of do the thing right. Great rant I agree 100%, I was a certified mechanic/technician for more than 30 years. Wore out 3, 1/2" drive torque wrench's. You can only calibrate them so many times, then you have to replace them if you want to be accurate and safe. Keep ranting my man, it needs to be heard and learned.
I had a wheel come off a 64’ Ford F600 on the highway because some idiot mechanic forgot the axle cotterpin on the front drivers side… Thank you for your rant…I can appreciate it personally…every gives me a hard time about my use of a torque wrench…but my bolts don’t fall out and come off when their supposed to…Thank you for the video…
Thanks for watching. I've owned a ton of cars and it amazes me(or maybe it doesn't anymore) when I give them a once over how many things are either completely loose or so tight they are about to snap. 'mechanic serviced' lol that doesn't mean anything anymore.
Thanks for the video! How do you check the torque and make sure they’re on properly? I’m a fan of fixing things on my own because of how expensive mechanics can be but I do want to make sure it’s done properly and safely.
You could always put a torque wrench on it and retorque them but the best way if you suspect an issue it's best to loosen the bolt/nut, then torque them down again.
Dude. You are awesome. I’m looking at an ‘’08 SSR, and outside of the automatic transmission, the other thing repeatedly mentioned is the control arms. The automatic transmission? Yeah, no. 6 speed manual please. It’s nice to see that this doesn’t seem to be an impossible task. Any other glaring issues of which you can think as to why this would be a total no go? Thanks for making a video of such comprehensively quality content.
Me a very crotchety-ex-GM field engineer, JR is correct, pay attention to his information on torque, very important. I would emphasize the importance of a well made factory quality part. You are riding on the Wheel Hub so junky light weight pieces here are a recipe for disaster when you least expect or need it. If you do not know what you are doing or do not have the proper tools, get the needed well made tools and torque wrench and proper information. I use spray lube 24 hours to disassembly and let it soak over night. Spray it like you own the chemical company. I love my Chicago P, air 1/2" impact and use it on the dash if I could get it in there. I use a series of wobbly adapters and can take bolts out from across the yard with enough extensions. Remember that each extension added reduces your torque and changes the tightening turns and possibly the sequence. I always recheck the bolts the next day or after a 'stunt-girl' test drive. Sometimes in the day of repair, try to tighten the slightest amount on very rusty and then let it soak, then you can remove, use Loctite as required and spray lube as you may take it apart again in a couple years or a month if you are a stunt driver like me...keep the dirtysidedown, stungirl
Stunt driving is the only way 😄
Good video....but 2 things.
1. When installing the control arm....always start with the rear 1st. It is much easier to navigate where you need it to go. Also...you can use the bolt and the deep socket to line it up in the hole. No need to pry on anything.
2. You do not have to have pressure on the parts you are torquing. (The jack being under the ball joint) Machanics use Lifts more than not to do these types of repairs. As long as you are torquing it to spec...you are good.
For point 1- never use the bolt to line things up, you'll destroy your threads and be looking to replace those too. Using the pry bar gets you in the ballpark so it can wiggle into place and not have to be hammered in destroying your threads. That sounds like the commission-based 'get it out the door quick' method.
For point 2 - If you torque the bolts in the full down position and not with the weight on the car the rubber in the bushing will fail much quicker because when weight is put on the car to regular ride height the rubber will twist.
Mechanics may use lifts but they also have screw jacks to do this as well. If they aren't, then they are doing you a disservice looking for that repeat customer for a failed part down the road. Quality over quantity.
Doing this on my daughters 2010 HHR. Replacing bushings and ball joints. Already cut off the ball joints. Factory rivets.
Sh*t happens, Captain America..."Sh*t happens."
I love you're attitude of do the thing right. Great rant I agree 100%, I was a certified mechanic/technician for more than 30 years. Wore out 3, 1/2" drive torque wrench's. You can only calibrate them so many times, then you have to replace them if you want to be accurate and safe. Keep ranting my man, it needs to be heard and learned.
I had a wheel come off a 64’ Ford F600 on the highway because some idiot mechanic forgot the axle cotterpin on the front drivers side…
Thank you for your rant…I can appreciate it personally…every gives me a hard time about my use of a torque wrench…but my bolts don’t fall out and come off when their supposed to…Thank you for the video…
Thanks for watching. I've owned a ton of cars and it amazes me(or maybe it doesn't anymore) when I give them a once over how many things are either completely loose or so tight they are about to snap. 'mechanic serviced' lol that doesn't mean anything anymore.
Excellent video! Thank you. Semper Fi, USMC.
Great video you help me, thank you.
Excellent JOB!
Many repair shops should be named THIRD TIMES A CHARM !
Great video, thanks a bunch sir!
Very well done
Great video bro..
🔥
Thanks for the video! How do you check the torque and make sure they’re on properly? I’m a fan of fixing things on my own because of how expensive mechanics can be but I do want to make sure it’s done properly and safely.
You could always put a torque wrench on it and retorque them but the best way if you suspect an issue it's best to loosen the bolt/nut, then torque them down again.
Dude. You are awesome. I’m looking at an ‘’08 SSR, and outside of the automatic transmission, the other thing repeatedly mentioned is the control arms.
The automatic transmission? Yeah, no. 6 speed manual please.
It’s nice to see that this doesn’t seem to be an impossible task.
Any other glaring issues of which you can think as to why this would be a total no go?
Thanks for making a video of such comprehensively quality content.
10:14 Thats a “Subscribe” from me…
Is it hard to change
It would have been nice to see you installing it, no need to make a video if you're not showing the process.
15mm 16mm and 21mm
Clueless !
Thanks for watching 😄