If you do any quilting, you can almost do that. I have a bag I keep under my cutting table where all my leftovers go. Every so often, when it gets full enough, I give it to a friend who enjoys quilting and she uses my scraps to make crazy quilts. She's got quite an eye for color and texture, and they usually turn out beautifully.
I recently started trying to get into the habit of making hexagons out of any scraps too small for practicing techniques, before cutting out the next project. I suspect after the box is full I will discover that paper piecing is not my forte, but it makes me feel thrifty now so I'm going with it.
The trick of using a different fabric for facings and bias binding for hems (sometimes you can use bias binding instead of a facing) was used back in the great depression and during war times. my girl scout uniforms ion the 60's were all made this way. I had forgotten about that. The double fold is also very useful. I've done that many times. Thanks for the reminders.
Most times I have limited yardage and will squeeze out a pattern by not following the layouts. I kinda look at layouts as a guideline, but not a requirement. Also, cutting pieces individually helps me when I need to match patterns or want to have a design feature of the fabric in a certain spot (like not on the boob area or pointing at girly parts!). Mom taught me to sew at a young age and winging it from what you have can save fabric for sure! 👍❤️
I cut out a pair of flowy shorts with a lovely geisha fabric. I only sewed up the side seams and inner seam. Sure enough there was a geisha face right smack in the middle of my "girly parts" I couldn't have planned itbetter if I tried. So that fabric will have to be used for another project. :)
This is what my Mother taught me to do as well (though not at a young age). I always trace off two sides and lay it out on the floor at 114cm and 150cm before I even start looking for fabric. I'd like to say I save money but I usually end up springing for a nicer fabric than I would have got if I had to buy the full amount.
That is an excellent suggestion and point to make...now the old brain has hit high gear...what a great idea for those fabrics that offer certain challenges when cutting. I tend to be very conservative and slavishly follow rules when following a pattern layout...I really need to try this...so thank you!
I do a lot of crafts; drawing, sculpting, miniatures, cardboard crafts, sewing, crocheting... I think all crafters are very thrifty and often downright cheap (because we have to! 😂), but sewing is what brings out my inner greedy goblin the most! No wonder, it's an expensive hobby! I absolutely do everything you talked about in this video, Evelyn. Especially the folding and fabric mixing. I usually cut one piece at a time so that I can fold the fabric juuust the right amount. If the print allows for it I'll also flip pieces that are wider at one end, like pants and raglan sleeves, up side down. I often use different fabric for facings, linings, pockets and so on, but I'm also fond of color blocking; side panels, contrasting sleeves, cuffs and so on. I also do a lot of piecing as I've found that those extra seams adds interest to the garment. Another thing I do is harvesting fabric from various sources, for example cheap t-shirts are perfect for making sleeves, trim and binding and also mock ups. Sheets, curtains, old clothes, kitchen towels and so on, also find their way to my fabric stash! Lastly I pay a lot of attention to what I'm doing as to avoid mistakes. Mistakes will happen of course, but I highly recommend making it a habit to double check everything and to not skip steps that will prevent mistakes; measuring multiple times, making sure pattern pieces are mirrored, holding on to the threads when starting a seam, tacking tricky seams (hand sewing is your friend!), testing seams on scrap fabric, trying on the garment throughout the process, doing mock ups and working on it until it's perfect ("Ok, it doesn't fit perfectly but I'll do the required alteration when I sew the garment". Yeah... 😅). These are all things that will make a massive difference, for your wallet as well as your mental state. Thank you Evelyn for yet another great video! I began my sewing journey last December and your videos has been extremely helpful! In fact, I do believe most of what I've learned is thanks to you! 💖
I don't think I have followed a pattern cutting layout since sewing classes in high school. Sometimes cutting on the fold costs fabric, so I will create the other half of the pattern piece and cut single layers. Other times, especially where the back of a top is supposed to be cut on the fold, I'll add a seam allowance and cut the back in two pieces. I also like to cut yoke linings, facings and pocket bags from contrasting fabrics.
I fold the fabric by sections so pattern piece fits on the fold with as much as possible on a single layer (see her video at 10:30 through about 12:00 for an example) Like this ..... ===______
Evelyn, excellent tips! My father (the tailor) used the bias tape when I messed up a pair of pants once. It showed his talent because I really messed them and they looked beautiful when he was done!
Thanks for sharing what my mom taught me many years ago. It's a good reminder. I had to get her approval first before cutting so there wasn't any kind of waste. I'm always thrilled when I can save a small amount of fabric. I feel like I'm beating the system. We also did the double fold. Very clever ideas all around and very important to know. Thanks for sharing all that you know.
My mum was the same, this was despite her working in a fabric/haberdashery shop with a staff discount. I think it went back to fact that she learned to sew at the end of WWII when fabric was being rationed.
My mother was very frugal and that was one of the first things she taught me when I was learning to sew. It's always been a fun challenge for me to see how much fabric I could save for scrap projects later!
Mother found that she did not have near enough fabric to make the dress she wanted; so, she cut out the dress from the desired fabric. Then she cut out the sleeves, collar, interfacings and hidden pockets from a light pink solid. The finished dress looked like a jumper with a light pink blouse under it. It looked very nice on her. I have crossed the side seams of the patterns pieces over each other on the seam lines, while matching up the grain lines on the pattern pieces, extended the top, and cut out pants (front and back together) by folding the fabric raw edge to raw edge (when I did not have enough fabric to make them the correct way). I had to use the fold line to match the grain line. I have noticed that a lot of scrub pants are made this way. The extra fabric in the top is for making the casing for eastic. If you need a pocket, make a cargo pocket and put it above the knee bend on the side you need it on. This only works for plain solid fabrics.
This is INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT! Thank you! SOOO many people need to hear this! My favorite was the one of both ends toward the center to get 2 cut on the fold pieces in. And save fabric by cutting linings out of a different fabric -- sometimes this is the thing that saves you!
I, too, Evelyn, see all the waste of these manufacturers fabric layouts. I have begun folding just what is needed for the largest pieces, leaving several inches with the opposite selvage... and then I make a scarf!!! Or a belt!!! Instead of sending odd bits to the scrap bin or scrap pouf. It has worked out well!!!
I’m known as the queen of tetris! Grocery in bags, fridge, dishwasher, clothing in suitcases, stuff in cupboards, if there’s stuff, it gets the tetris treatment!
I learned most of these tips from my mother many years ago. I've used bias tape for hems before, however, I don't often think about removing the hem allowance when laying out patterns on fabric. I'll definitely remember it the next time I'm trying to squeeze all of the pattern pieces on to a small amount of fabric. Thank you for this great video, Evelyn!
When making shirts I have at times made contrasting collars and cuffs and even a contrasting back yoke to squeeze the most out of a fabric. On waistcoats I often use knit fabric for the back so I don't need to make the small belts. This has the added benefit of making the fronts sit neatly. Knit fabric for collars and cuffs on casual jackets also saves the main fabric. Choose the same or a contrasting colour. I have one jacket where the sleeves were entirely hand-knitted to pick up a highlight colour in the main fabric. Knitted fabric for the yoke of a skirt can also look fabulous.
I quite often cut several different things from the same fabric (while never ignoring the grainlines!). For instance, my husband wanted me to make him a nightshirt from a fabric that had smiling frogs on it and I thought our three sons (at that time aged 2, 4 & 6) would look adorable with shirts made in the same fabric. I'd only bought enough for the nightshirt but as my husband is a very big man there was going to be heaps of fabric left over. So I placed his pattern pieces. Then I placed the pieces for the shirts for the boys. As there was still quite a lot of fabric (I'd not cut anything yet) I then placed patterns for a shirt for an 18" rag doll. With the scraps left I was able to place pattern pieces for a Ken doll. By the time I'd laid out all those pieces I had very little left in the way of scraps. Another time I was making rag dolls for my nieces for Christmas (I had 3) and I was asked to make a fourth. I'd only bought enough calico to make the four dolls but by ignoring the layouts with the patterns the 8th! doll was minus a leg! I think I did super well. These days, when cutting fabric for anything, I look to see what else I might like to make and then place those pattern pieces to make sure I'm using as much of my fabric as I can as I simply can't afford to waste anything. It might be years before I get to the other things I cut out, but I'm not wasting fabric. And these days I am now cutting the leftover fabric up for things like quilts, or as stuffing for toys, pillows or hat forms, etc. Waste not want not.
Perfect Explanation of everything i want to know and search high and low for. Most people leave out the “ minor details” which makes a lesson make sense and understandable. Great work!,,
I've added to my sewing repertoire by watching historical dress CosTubers... Using the selvage as a seam allowance is as old as time because fabric has always been expensive. These ladies also cut their fabric conservatively most of the time as well. I'm so happy that the algorithm added Evelyn to my watch list; I'm adding so much more to my skills! Thank you from a fellow Aussie 🙏
I don’t know how I missed this video but it had some of your better sewing tips. Top to bottom and folding the material differently. Thanks so much for those tips.
Hated a dress mock-up I sewed last week, then found changing the grain line of the bodice and sleeves made it into a whole new dress in a good way! It wasn’t just any different direction though, I had to be careful about mirroring the same grain line change for each side and it did eat up more fabric 😬
Perfect timing and advice for this beginner. I bought a lovely piece of fabric from the thrift store and bought a pattern to sew some trousers. I just read the pattern instructions and gasped, oh no, I might not have enough fabric!!! After watching this video, I will adhere to the grain-line and tip to top rules, but shift pattern pieces around thinking outside the box. A fun challenge! Thanks so much 😊
All the tips in this video are helpful, but the one that gave me a bit of an "Aha!" moment was when you laid the fabric out whole & then folded it from the sides so that both pieces could have their own fold. The tip towards the end. That was a cool one to learn about, & it makes great sense. Thanks for all your videos. I find them very helpful, & I've learned a lot from you. This year - 2021 - since I got my sewing machine last January, has been one of me practicing sewing tips I've received from you & others, although I've only sewn one garment - the easiest thing ever, a beach cover up from an oversized scarf with just two seams. The rest of my projects have been napkins & a few other really easy things. In January, though, I shall start to sew clothes that I can wear for every day, starting with a circle skirt & a shell top, very simple things to give me confidence. I shall use your videos, as well as other reference tools, to help me in these, & I look forward to using what I've learned to start getting the clothes I want & that fit me, as well as in fabrics that I like, instead of having to rely on what's in the stores or online. Thanks for your tips & tricks & for making things very clear. You're an excellent teacher, & I shall continue to learn more from you, Evelyn. 😊🤗
Great tutorial.😊 I very rarely follow the pattern layouts. Unless after completely reading the entire directions it and some pieces have to be directional......nope.....lay the pieces to have the least amount of wastage😊
The best thing in my sewing journey is to have spent the money and purchases a 12" set of shears. I had been using an 8" pair of craft scissors for cutting out and they never gave the best results but with the new shears cutting is quite enjoyable. The shears cut so much smoother and give so much more control so if you are the same as me and on a budget then for sure to get a pair of high quality scissors to make your efforts worthwhile. I am a fan of rotary cutters but a proper set of shears will make you wonder why lol
Hi, I have been struggling with this on and off again for some time. As late as earlier today actually. Thank you, I think you just helped me to make a decision. Yours, Ann
I like your tip of using contrast facings/pockets! My mother had a home-ec degree from back in the 1940’s, and she was a fabulous seamstress, cook, and baker. One of her best tips that still sticks with me is to not throw 13:2613:26 away any single little scrap until you’re finished because you might need it!
When I get super layz and the garment has straight seams along the grain, I put those edges on the selvage and don't need to cut them and don't finish them. I lay out my pattern differently most of the time because the width of the fabric variates. The patterns usually have layouts for 114 and 140 cm wide bolts. But some fabrics are 150 or 160 cm wide. And I'm not going to throw away that 10 or 20 cm strip of fabric.
Tip #3 rocked my world. Using a different fabric for pockets, facings, all those inside pieces, is something I never thought of. Not only saving fabric but making a garment better! Imagine a fun stripe just barely peeking out of a pocket of a solid color dress. Also love tip #4, trimming the hem allowance down to a seam allowance. Thank you so much :)
I've also done the opposite - cut one on the fold instead of two separate pieces to save the seam allowance in say a skirt where it doesn't matter if less panels - only slight design change.
I don't follow the layout, I may look at it occasionally just to see, but I almost always purchase a quarter yrd less fabric that the pattern calls for and still have left over. I cut the largest piece that needs to be on the fold first, folding the fabric only as wide as needs to be, then the smaller pieces that need to be on fold, then using a single layer of fabric, to lay out the rest of the pieces.
If the pocket is inseam & hidden, I sometimes cut it from a lighter weight fabric altogether. Or I will use a contrasting fabric and perhaps edge cuffs/collar similarly - so not having enough fabric looks like I chose the 2nd fabric "on purpose".
Clever girl! How silly of me to be so lockstep about pockets being on straight of grain, when they really don't have to be. Thanks for this useful tip!
Thank you! Our parents, grandparents, and/or great-grandparents were survivors of the Great Depression. They taught us to always lay out patterns to never water fabric. Fabric pieces can be pieced together to make doll clothes, bags, and other things. So, watching RUclipsrs wasting fabric, while laying out patterns, makes me face-palm.
Yes! Like you, I was taught to sew by a Depression/WWII mother. We always laid out patterns to use the least amount of fabric, every time! We also reworked our dresses as fashions and hemlines changed. Watching sewing videos that waste fabric and ignore grainlines and mismatch fabric nap are so cringy!
I saw one YT seamstress use leftover pieces to stuff a handmade poof and she also uses it for dog bed stuffing - dog bed is made of old towels and stuffed - to donate to shelters for animals. Her and her mom quilt and sew and have tons of scraps.
@@ashlynnheller8400 Who said I hated anyone? The truth is that wrinkled fabric makes cutting out less accurate. I just feel that those who don't iron their fabric are making life harder for themselves.
I started sewing using offcuts and also making my own patterns (with the help of my teacher), so I've become good at fabric tetris! I don't think I've actually looked at cutting layouts, honestly. I try to use selvedges as much as I can because I'm lazy and it's less edges to finish, and I've definitely done the double fold trick!
Recently I realized that I have been sewing for over half a century (doing my own designs for over three decades) and do many of these things you mention automatically. I was watching this video with an idea about whether it would be useful for textiles students. Your videos are aimed at students but as a teacher I still need to preview videos before showing. And adding my two cents worth to the discussion...occasionally, when I am having to squeak a design out of less than an optimal amount of fabric, some of the seam allowances of my interior pieces (eg. facings) may wind up with a small chunk missing if a main pattern piece needs that fabric more. The “chunk” never extends within 1/4” of the sewing line or (God forbid) across the sewing line. Usually these pieces require fusible, which can be cut exactly, and this helps smooth that edge and remove any construction guesswork. Additionally a corner might not be a corner (eg. under arm on side seam) as long as it does not shorten the sewing line in either direction. It is helpful to mark where the sewing lines meet in this instance.
I just used the double fold for some neck pillows was cutting out. I needed 2 of the same on a fold but still needed to have enough of the fabric to make the tote bag. Worked perfect!
You are so right about the top and tail rule. I have always had light-sensitive eyes, so I never go outside without my polarised sunglasses (even in winter). Whilst wearing these, it is very obvious which manufacturers have cut corners by top-and-tailing their pattern pieces - it makes some pieces look darker and mismatched. Upholstered seats in cars, trains, planes, etc are the main culprits; but also some of the cheaper "non-branded" clothing stores. If the price seems to be too good to be true - try it on and look for colour/shade matching with sunglasses on, and check for pattern matching and symmetry of the garment. I've even found garments that were not cut on the straight grain - there is no fix for that. Whilst being worn, the grain line of a finished garment should be vertical, from shoulder to hip, center front staying where it should be - this helps the garment sit correctly with no warping of seam lines after the first wash, and it will drape evenly. I've seen hems that are higher on the left compared to the right, but when taken off and measured are actually the same length. With regard to using the woven selvedge; I have done it, but I prefer to clip it as for a curved seam; my reason being that if fabric is going to shrink, it will be most noticeable at the selvedge as the fabric is more tightly woven so shrinkage will be magnified here, creating a rippled seam after washing.
When I cut a pattern of multiple pieces like a blouse or dress. I always lay down the largest pieces first. Many times I can get facings etc from the scraps. It is so important to pay attention to the grain. I have seen so many vloggers here who never seem to measure for the grain of the fabric on a pattern they are about to cut. They just guess what looks straight. I lay them out for what I think is straight and when I check it with the measuring tape, no I was off. Even a little matters. Don't guess, always measure. Also when you fold both selvedges to the center, measure to be sure it is on the grain. I so seldom hearing that mentioned or demonstrated. Good video.
Your videos are so helpful to this new to sewing clothing person. My biggest challenge with cutting fabric is just lack of space. We have dogs, so if I use the floor then I risk getting fur in my fabric. Our dining table has a bumpy and uneven top, so that's not an option. I'm trying to rearrange furniture so i can fit a bigger flat table in somewhere. Personal problems aside, you explain everything so nicely and your videos show everything so clearly. Thank you!
Sometimes fabric stores will let you cut your pattern out in their class room. Or use a folding cardboard cutting board on your table or bed. I have to shut my bedroom door to keep my dog and cat out if I use my bed...kills my back, but it gets the job done.
You can buy cutting mats. You can recycle large pieces of cardboard appliances, etc come in. Store them upright behind a door or couch or table next to a wall.😄
I am new to sewing, I am going to make my own pattern following grain line. Your knowledge and skill inspire me. Easy to listen and you explain so clearly each step. I do wish more knowledge on settings on machines though for fabric sewing, and tips. I wish you the best of health with your treatments, and hope you beat this and come back as vibrant as usual. Great style you have.
I honestly didn't know people still followed those cutting layouts 🤣 I usually slide my pattern pieces all over so that I can put armscythes up under collar cut outs and really use every cm of fabric I can get
As an enthusiastic self-taught sewer, I do believe everything that could be done incorrectly, I’ve done. I was so proud of my sewing though, and unstoppable until...I flipped my pattern pieces end-for-end on an A-line skirt being constructed from a beautiful soft PLAID wool. My backside was going in 4 different directions when I walked that day! Lol I quietly put that mess away never to be seen again.
I used to make a lot of pleated shorts/pants. I loved making the pockets in a super soft old bed sheet also facings. So when I put my hands in my pockets it felt nice, and it wasn't bulky. I remember making a t-shirt top when I was a teenager. It turned out great except for the fold line not never came out. So after that, anytime I made something with knit fabric I would refold it so I had two folded edges and the original fold line wasn't part of the garment.
I can't tell you how educational this video was for me! I'm a seasoned sewist but I have often wondered how far out of the instructions I could actually get away with. Fabric is so expensive nowadays! Long time viewer, but just wanted to give you a big THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge.
An easy way to "copy" your grain-lines in your paper pattern pieces, when you want to flip the pattern piece...is folding the paper pattern along/on the grain-line. So you don't have to have to redraw that information. And it's so nuch more easy to see that your pattern pieces are still are on the correct grain of the fabric. ✌🏻
I was shown the double fold technique at high school in the 70s. I was surprised that I had never seen it in pattern layout once I started to buy patterns. Because it is such a handy hint I always share this tip with anyone that will listen. Thank you for letting me know that it is a real tip and not something that I was starting to think I was the only one to know it. I like all your tips, tricks and techniques and thank you for sharing them.Regards Christine 🙋♀️🇦🇺👍🏻😊
I have seen it in a pattern layout - my most recent project was a T-shirt pattern. And it specifically stated to fold the fabric sides to middle before cutting out the front and back pieces. It saved so much fabric I was able to get 2 T-shirts from the fabric instead of the 1 I was planning to make.
I'm someone else who ignores layouts... other than the cardinal rule of the grainline! I often use printed fabrics, so the pieces need to go one way for that (although I do flip head-to-tail on plain fabrics, or two-way patterns, as they tend to be jerseys not woven). I also save the cabbage from one project, and use it for things like pocket linings for the next.
Thank you! You've clarified something for me in #5, cutting on the fold. I cut out a little summer/sun dress yesterday in accordance with the pattern placement instructions and I've got sooooo much left over fabric !!! So I'm really glad you covered this issue. I'm definitely gonna put that tip into action next time. Also I'm only 5 foot tall, so I'm always gonna have too much fabric if I buy the amount directed on the pattern.
I have also (to ensure I don't end up with big flowers right on my boobs) cut in a single layer. If you do this you have to remind yourself to flip the pattern piece over or you won't have a mirror image.
Excellent point not only for seeing but just for buying already made clothes. Went to a school concert my daughters were involved with. Conductor of the orchestra was a chubby middle aged teacher. She had her back to the audience as she was conducting wearing a white dress with multi colored circles throughout. Problem was one was right over her backside “perfectly” centered. Big distraction!!
I have recently taken up sewing again and am buying secondhand and vintage fabrics on eBay for sustainability reasons. These tips will really help me get the most out of my fabric.
I am saving meters of fabric by deliberately ignoring the layout. It's millimetre work but so much more worth it because you'll collect so much less cabbage
I think some Burda patterns are very guilty of creating a lot of cabbage. I didn't use them much, but i have several copies of this magazine, and i look at the instructions/layouts and i sometimes wonder WHY do they leave so much unused fabric..... a waste of money! And to add insult to the injury, sometimes, the garments they show don't look very professional/couture/expensive. In couture fashion, if you watch some documentaries, you'll see how much cabbage they produce. But if they can make clothes that look expensive and are of high quality, then i find it more acceptable.
@@marshwetland3808 cabbage is an old fashion word for fabric scraps of all possible sizes, for some it is tiny snippets, for others 50cm worth of fabric
I take apart extra-large tshirts and recut them to fit me in a more feminine style. I try to use the hem of the garment, and especially the sleeves. Saves a lot of time.
My biggest trick is piecing things together. If an extra seam in the garment makes it easier to cut out, I adjust the pattern so it has an extra seam. Either in a place that still looks good or seams in places that nobody will notice. Facings and pockets I piece together of the leftover fabric. And skirt patterns I usually make up myself according to how much fabric I have and what design fits best. On my last project I slimmed down the skirt pieces of the dress and instead made extra gores to make up for the lost width. Piecing is period. More and smaller pieces I find saves more fabric than a few huge pieces.
O-o-o-o goodie! No more feeling guilty that I've used a smidgen of selvage in a seam allowance! When short of fabric I've even used a lengthwise bit of the selvage in my seam allowance for a lining piece or somewhere else where it wouldn't be seen or felt. That used to bother me so much, I've done it for as long as I can remember and it always felt a bit like cheating. Thank you so much - now I feel validated! One little caveat though - don't use selvage as seam allowance if it's very thick (it can be scratchy) or if you haven't washed your fabric first - some selvages will shrink. (DON'T ask me how I know this) I haven't used the exact layout of a pattern for years; especially for knits. I DO stay on-grain always though, that was a hard and fast rule my mother taught me and I can never break it or I'd sense her spirit looking over my shoulder and frowning at me - talk about guilt! 😁
I use the selvedge in the seam allowance all the time. In fact I prefer it, since it means that seam is already finished. I've also used the double fold and bias binding methods. I'm thinking to try a method for changing the pattern layout that I've never done before: adding seams. I have a dress pattern that calls for 60" fabric and I want to use a longer 45" fabric from my stash. So my plan is to break it down into smaller pieces. Looking at the pattern, it looks like a fairly straightforward fix--possibly as simple as cutting the skirt pieces in half--but I'm definitely going to make up my altered pattern with an old sheet before I use it on the unique fabric!
Thanks for this, especially the suggestion on hem allowances. I usually refold my fabric into the narrowest sections that fit the pa ttern pieces that need to be on the fold. I have also cut skirts on the cross-grain.
I have used the refold idea to get two pieces with a fold in them on my fabric. I love to use vintage fabric so I don't always have the option of enough yards.
Wow! I am so proud of myself. I have been doing this forever! The problem solving aspect of sewing really motivates me. (it's OK, my friends think I'm a freak. I taught myself to read at 3yrs of age. I thought everyone did that!) LOL. Love your channel. Thank you for sharing. You're a great teacher!
Well I remember picking up a pattern when I was 19 my father passed away got me a sewing machine from him I was overweight and I need an outfit for something and I used a oversized pair of men's pinstripe suits pants and made it two piece outfit out of a pattern skirt and vest followed it properly because it came out perfect for Christmas. didn't realize that people don't know how to read these things. Must of did a good job useing the whole pants and not waisting or needing more . Cool to know.
Great video! I’ve always found it bizarre that the pattern companies seem to want users to place the fabric right sides together and then lay out the pattern pieces. I like to pattern match, or at least choose where I want elements to be visible, so I always lay my fabric with the design print on the outside.
I NEVER follow the layout. It wastes SO MUCH fabric. It helps a newer sewer with grainlines and such but once you figure things out you can just ignore the layouts.
I consider it a guide. I do the pieces that go on the fold first, esp the ones that start on one side of the fold and wrap around, (usually neck facings) I have also refolded my fabric in another direction, cut ends together. I use this method when using a border print. My nephew picked out a bunch of fabric for shorts, he was four. Most of the prints were all over prints, which took 1/2 yard each. Then he found a shark border print. I think that I had to get a yard in order to cut it out. I had a lot of left over fabric on that one. I do not remember what I did the the left over fabric, I probably just used it as an all print for shorts or a pillow for camping.
Several times I've had the grain line of a part be 90° off the fabric print. This caught me off guard a couple of times when I was getting started. Now I always examine the print before I trust the cutting instructions and sometimes this means buying more fabric than the envelope suggests.
I’ve never followed the pattern layout. One tip I’ve recently learned is your last one. I’ve always folded the fabric selvage to selvage and cut out my pieces. Doing a half fold will often work if it’s a narrow piece and saves so much fabric! A real eye opener. Love it when you give us useful tips, I’m an older sewer but I’m still learning new things! Thank you!
I usually have to shorten my patterns, so if I can, I lay the shortened pieces on my cutting board in my new layout, then measure how much fabric I need. Depending on the item, I can save 1/4 to 1/2 yard/meter. Layouts are often the same for several sizes. If you're making a small size in the group, chances are you can tighten up the layout quite a bit. Some pieces can be laid off grain, like pocket bags, back neck facings, welts ... if you're not sure it will work, don't! This is a pretty advanced technique, needing expert sewing and fabric knowledge. Also, sometimes you can switch crosswise for lengthwise grain. I often do this for waistbands. Finally, as another commenter said, check your fabric width. Even an inch / couple of centimeters can help!
I love these tips. Especially using a bit of selvage and folding to the center to get two folds. Thank you for the great information. I really love your videos and have learned so much.
I use self drafted patterns and stretchy or printed fabrics so when I lay my pattern down, I find the greater stretch or the direction of the prints since I want to make them look the best and it would look as flattering like a professional garment. If I was to use a fabric or print that has a very obvious direction or nap or something, I would lay the fabric flat so I could cut on one layer or separate my pattern pieces so I can probably keep the directions going the same way.
It did not occur to me as a beginner that cut on fold also means towards the grainline. So yeah, I folded it lengthwise and lost all the good stretch in my fabric. Lucky for me it still fits, so I will get some use out of it. I am about 2 weeks late to use the tip accurately, but will in the future.
Similar to the double fold but sometimes i will fold a single fold narrower and cut a single layer piece on the other side if there are many single layer pieces and a lot of waste on the fold.
Great tips Evelyn, especially the one about contrasting fabric for pockets, facings and such...that never occurred to me. My mother taught me to use other fabric to make facings for hems in pants...that has been a game-changer for my son who is 6 ft 6 inches tall.
So, how do YOU like to save fabric on sewing pattern layouts? ✂️✂️ If you want to lean more about making great quality garments with me, join me online at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I am going to use that double-fold trick today, for a very different reason. I bought an entire roll of muslin at 120" wide, about a year ago, without realizing how *utterly obnoxious* it is to try and cut anything out, at that width. Getting two fold lines at once is great! I'm actually going to be able to lay things out somewhat *closer* to how the stated layout looks (which in my case is also going to save some fabric). I also have a pair of pants that I might just be able to get right, if I supplement the hem. I was going to do piecing at the waist, because it's partly covered by a wide belt, but I am super nervous about it.
Creating more folds is a life hack if I ever saw one! I do that a lot. For my next project with a ready made pattern I wanted to follow the suggested layout, thinking they they suggest the best way but now I will assess it first using your guidelines. Thanks!
I had often wondered why commercial patterns seem to provide generous amounts of fabric for cutting layouts. I recently read an article that explained the fabric amounts included are to accommodate all sizes of the pattern. A person who is sewing the largest size will need the full amount, but one who is sewing a smaller size may not. Definitely try Evelyn's great tips and you may be able to save some fabric you can use for another project. Happy sewing.
Hi Evelyn, this brings back memories from way back, when I used to do a lot of sewing. Juggling things round to try find that extra little bit ! It was so satisfying when it happened. Thankyou for sharing this, a great reminder and so useful to know about.
Sometimes when having to squeeze - it might only work with multiple pieces after cutting out strategically some pieces and then use the "gaps" and remainders to cut out smaller pieces after unfolding whats left. But I do recognise that takes confidence and experience. I am the queen of squeeze, and I am a boundary pusher, but beginners tend to use so much more than they need to if allowed. I ve never thought about following cutting guidelines since high school! But I think it shows how well we were taught back then. The only younger ppll today who Ive met, and who are really competant sewers, are ones who went to design school. Who is even teaching young people today??
Every time I lay out the pattern pieces I always wish fabric was like dough and you could just squish the leftover together and roll it out again.
😂😂😂 Now I do too!
If you do any quilting, you can almost do that. I have a bag I keep under my cutting table where all my leftovers go. Every so often, when it gets full enough, I give it to a friend who enjoys quilting and she uses my scraps to make crazy quilts. She's got quite an eye for color and texture, and they usually turn out beautifully.
I recently started trying to get into the habit of making hexagons out of any scraps too small for practicing techniques, before cutting out the next project. I suspect after the box is full I will discover that paper piecing is not my forte, but it makes me feel thrifty now so I'm going with it.
A perfect description!
i can't get that out of my head now!!
This is one of those occasions I realize I know more than I know. Didn't even remember learning this as a kid.
The trick of using a different fabric for facings and bias binding for hems (sometimes you can use bias binding instead of a facing) was used back in the great depression and during war times. my girl scout uniforms ion the 60's were all made this way. I had forgotten about that. The double fold is also very useful. I've done that many times. Thanks for the reminders.
Yes! A very vintage trick!
Most times I have limited yardage and will squeeze out a pattern by not following the layouts. I kinda look at layouts as a guideline, but not a requirement. Also, cutting pieces individually helps me when I need to match patterns or want to have a design feature of the fabric in a certain spot (like not on the boob area or pointing at girly parts!). Mom taught me to sew at a young age and winging it from what you have can save fabric for sure! 👍❤️
Yes! I forgot to mention the single layer layout! That has saved me heaps too! 😀
I cut out a pair of flowy shorts with a lovely geisha fabric. I only sewed up the side seams and inner seam. Sure enough there was a geisha face right smack in the middle of my "girly parts" I couldn't have planned itbetter if I tried. So that fabric will have to be used for another project. :)
This is what my Mother taught me to do as well (though not at a young age). I always trace off two sides and lay it out on the floor at 114cm and 150cm before I even start looking for fabric. I'd like to say I save money but I usually end up springing for a nicer fabric than I would have got if I had to buy the full amount.
@@judyjennings-gunther4022 🤣
That is an excellent suggestion and point to make...now the old brain has hit high gear...what a great idea for those fabrics that offer certain challenges when cutting. I tend to be very conservative and slavishly follow rules when following a pattern layout...I really need to try this...so thank you!
I do a lot of crafts; drawing, sculpting, miniatures, cardboard crafts, sewing, crocheting... I think all crafters are very thrifty and often downright cheap (because we have to! 😂), but sewing is what brings out my inner greedy goblin the most! No wonder, it's an expensive hobby!
I absolutely do everything you talked about in this video, Evelyn. Especially the folding and fabric mixing. I usually cut one piece at a time so that I can fold the fabric juuust the right amount. If the print allows for it I'll also flip pieces that are wider at one end, like pants and raglan sleeves, up side down. I often use different fabric for facings, linings, pockets and so on, but I'm also fond of color blocking; side panels, contrasting sleeves, cuffs and so on. I also do a lot of piecing as I've found that those extra seams adds interest to the garment. Another thing I do is harvesting fabric from various sources, for example cheap t-shirts are perfect for making sleeves, trim and binding and also mock ups. Sheets, curtains, old clothes, kitchen towels and so on, also find their way to my fabric stash!
Lastly I pay a lot of attention to what I'm doing as to avoid mistakes. Mistakes will happen of course, but I highly recommend making it a habit to double check everything and to not skip steps that will prevent mistakes; measuring multiple times, making sure pattern pieces are mirrored, holding on to the threads when starting a seam, tacking tricky seams (hand sewing is your friend!), testing seams on scrap fabric, trying on the garment throughout the process, doing mock ups and working on it until it's perfect ("Ok, it doesn't fit perfectly but I'll do the required alteration when I sew the garment". Yeah... 😅). These are all things that will make a massive difference, for your wallet as well as your mental state.
Thank you Evelyn for yet another great video! I began my sewing journey last December and your videos has been extremely helpful! In fact, I do believe most of what I've learned is thanks to you! 💖
I don't think I have followed a pattern cutting layout since sewing classes in high school. Sometimes cutting on the fold costs fabric, so I will create the other half of the pattern piece and cut single layers. Other times, especially where the back of a top is supposed to be cut on the fold, I'll add a seam allowance and cut the back in two pieces. I also like to cut yoke linings, facings and pocket bags from contrasting fabrics.
I fold the fabric by sections so pattern piece fits on the fold with as much as possible on a single layer (see her video at 10:30 through about 12:00 for an example)
Like this ..... ===______
Same!!
Lol. Same here.
Evelyn, excellent tips! My father (the tailor) used the bias tape when I messed up a pair of pants once. It showed his talent because I really messed them and they looked beautiful when he was done!
Thanks for sharing what my mom taught me many years ago. It's a good reminder. I had to get her approval first before cutting so there wasn't any kind of waste. I'm always thrilled when I can save a small amount of fabric. I feel like I'm beating the system. We also did the double fold. Very clever ideas all around and very important to know. Thanks for sharing all that you know.
My mum was the same, this was despite her working in a fabric/haberdashery shop with a staff discount. I think it went back to fact that she learned to sew at the end of WWII when fabric was being rationed.
My mother was very frugal and that was one of the first things she taught me when I was learning to sew. It's always been a fun challenge for me to see how much fabric I could save for scrap projects later!
Right! I've think it is a great challenge too!!
Mother found that she did not have near enough fabric to make the dress she wanted; so, she cut out the dress from the desired fabric. Then she cut out the sleeves, collar, interfacings and hidden pockets from a light pink solid. The finished dress looked like a jumper with a light pink blouse under it. It looked very nice on her.
I have crossed the side seams of the patterns pieces over each other on the seam lines, while matching up the grain lines on the pattern pieces, extended the top, and cut out pants (front and back together) by folding the fabric raw edge to raw edge (when I did not have enough fabric to make them the correct way). I had to use the fold line to match the grain line. I have noticed that a lot of scrub pants are made this way. The extra fabric in the top is for making the casing for eastic. If you need a pocket, make a cargo pocket and put it above the knee bend on the side you need it on. This only works for plain solid fabrics.
This is INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT! Thank you! SOOO many people need to hear this! My favorite was the one of both ends toward the center to get 2 cut on the fold pieces in. And save fabric by cutting linings out of a different fabric -- sometimes this is the thing that saves you!
Bonus of using the selvage is less cutting and less finishing of raw edges. 😀
I, too, Evelyn, see all the waste of these manufacturers fabric layouts. I have begun folding just what is needed for the largest pieces, leaving several inches with the opposite selvage... and then I make a scarf!!! Or a belt!!! Instead of sending odd bits to the scrap bin or scrap pouf. It has worked out well!!!
It took me a while to learn why patterns had to be placed a certain way. Thank you for sharing the importance of this!
Yes! I always play pattern tetris on my fabrics!! Great tips!!
Pattern tetras!! YES! I think you have just named this process and I'm going to use this next time, thank you! 😁
Ok,
Hi ??
I’m known as the queen of tetris! Grocery in bags, fridge, dishwasher, clothing in suitcases, stuff in cupboards, if there’s stuff, it gets the tetris treatment!
@@jameschang3100 Hi James, I see you. Are you all right? Yours, Ann
@@annlidslot8212 yes I'm good how about you??
I learned most of these tips from my mother many years ago. I've used bias tape for hems before, however, I don't often think about removing the hem allowance when laying out patterns on fabric. I'll definitely remember it the next time I'm trying to squeeze all of the pattern pieces on to a small amount of fabric. Thank you for this great video, Evelyn!
Your welcome! I how that bias tape just saves you one day!
When making shirts I have at times made contrasting collars and cuffs and even a contrasting back yoke to squeeze the most out of a fabric. On waistcoats I often use knit fabric for the back so I don't need to make the small belts. This has the added benefit of making the fronts sit neatly. Knit fabric for collars and cuffs on casual jackets also saves the main fabric. Choose the same or a contrasting colour. I have one jacket where the sleeves were entirely hand-knitted to pick up a highlight colour in the main fabric. Knitted fabric for the yoke of a skirt can also look fabulous.
I quite often cut several different things from the same fabric (while never ignoring the grainlines!). For instance, my husband wanted me to make him a nightshirt from a fabric that had smiling frogs on it and I thought our three sons (at that time aged 2, 4 & 6) would look adorable with shirts made in the same fabric. I'd only bought enough for the nightshirt but as my husband is a very big man there was going to be heaps of fabric left over. So I placed his pattern pieces. Then I placed the pieces for the shirts for the boys. As there was still quite a lot of fabric (I'd not cut anything yet) I then placed patterns for a shirt for an 18" rag doll. With the scraps left I was able to place pattern pieces for a Ken doll. By the time I'd laid out all those pieces I had very little left in the way of scraps.
Another time I was making rag dolls for my nieces for Christmas (I had 3) and I was asked to make a fourth. I'd only bought enough calico to make the four dolls but by ignoring the layouts with the patterns the 8th! doll was minus a leg! I think I did super well.
These days, when cutting fabric for anything, I look to see what else I might like to make and then place those pattern pieces to make sure I'm using as much of my fabric as I can as I simply can't afford to waste anything. It might be years before I get to the other things I cut out, but I'm not wasting fabric. And these days I am now cutting the leftover fabric up for things like quilts, or as stuffing for toys, pillows or hat forms, etc. Waste not want not.
Sure,
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Perfect Explanation of everything i want to know and search high and low for. Most people leave out the “ minor details” which makes a lesson make sense and understandable. Great work!,,
I've added to my sewing repertoire by watching historical dress CosTubers... Using the selvage as a seam allowance is as old as time because fabric has always been expensive. These ladies also cut their fabric conservatively most of the time as well. I'm so happy that the algorithm added Evelyn to my watch list; I'm adding so much more to my skills! Thank you from a fellow Aussie 🙏
I love these baby step video's as they untangle the language of sewing. Thank you!
Yes. I do the fabric placing game every time. Great tips.
Bias tape trick is GENIUS
You are so good at explaining. I have sewed for 30 years and find your videos good. Thank you x
I don’t know how I missed this video but it had some of your better sewing tips. Top to bottom and folding the material differently. Thanks so much for those tips.
I always look forward to watching your videos ... FIESTA 🪅
Hated a dress mock-up I sewed last week, then found changing the grain line of the bodice and sleeves made it into a whole new dress in a good way! It wasn’t just any different direction though, I had to be careful about mirroring the same grain line change for each side and it did eat up more fabric 😬
True
Hello??
Perfect timing and advice for this beginner. I bought a lovely piece of fabric from the thrift store and bought a pattern to sew some trousers. I just read the pattern instructions and gasped, oh no, I might not have enough fabric!!! After watching this video, I will adhere to the grain-line and tip to top rules, but shift pattern pieces around thinking outside the box. A fun challenge! Thanks so much 😊
All the tips in this video are helpful, but the one that gave me a bit of an "Aha!" moment was when you laid the fabric out whole & then folded it from the sides so that both pieces could have their own fold. The tip towards the end. That was a cool one to learn about, & it makes great sense.
Thanks for all your videos. I find them very helpful, & I've learned a lot from you. This year - 2021 - since I got my sewing machine last January, has been one of me practicing sewing tips I've received from you & others, although I've only sewn one garment - the easiest thing ever, a beach cover up from an oversized scarf with just two seams. The rest of my projects have been napkins & a few other really easy things.
In January, though, I shall start to sew clothes that I can wear for every day, starting with a circle skirt & a shell top, very simple things to give me confidence. I shall use your videos, as well as other reference tools, to help me in these, & I look forward to using what I've learned to start getting the clothes I want & that fit me, as well as in fabrics that I like, instead of having to rely on what's in the stores or online.
Thanks for your tips & tricks & for making things very clear. You're an excellent teacher, & I shall continue to learn more from you, Evelyn. 😊🤗
Great tutorial.😊
I very rarely follow the pattern layouts. Unless after completely reading the entire directions it and some pieces have to be directional......nope.....lay the pieces to have the least amount of wastage😊
The best thing in my sewing journey is to have spent the money and purchases a 12" set of shears. I had been using an 8" pair of craft scissors for cutting out and they never gave the best results but with the new shears cutting is quite enjoyable. The shears cut so much smoother and give so much more control so if you are the same as me and on a budget then for sure to get a pair of high quality scissors to make your efforts worthwhile. I am a fan of rotary cutters but a proper set of shears will make you wonder why lol
Hi, I have been struggling with this on and off again for some time. As late as earlier today actually. Thank you, I think you just helped me to make a decision. Yours, Ann
I like your tip of using contrast facings/pockets! My mother had a home-ec degree from back in the 1940’s, and she was a fabulous seamstress, cook, and baker. One of her best tips that still sticks with me is to not throw 13:26 13:26 away any single little scrap until you’re finished because you might need it!
When I get super layz and the garment has straight seams along the grain, I put those edges on the selvage and don't need to cut them and don't finish them.
I lay out my pattern differently most of the time because the width of the fabric variates. The patterns usually have layouts for 114 and 140 cm wide bolts. But some fabrics are 150 or 160 cm wide. And I'm not going to throw away that 10 or 20 cm strip of fabric.
Right!! So often the have a different width fabric and it's nice to know we make our own layouts right!
Tip #3 rocked my world. Using a different fabric for pockets, facings, all those inside pieces, is something I never thought of. Not only saving fabric but making a garment better! Imagine a fun stripe just barely peeking out of a pocket of a solid color dress. Also love tip #4, trimming the hem allowance down to a seam allowance. Thank you so much :)
Great video 👌😊
I've once even decided to cut a pattern piece that was supposed to be cut on fold in two separate pieces just to squeeze it in 🙈
Same here! As far as I am concerned, it was a "design choice", and I will always justify it as such ahah
I have done this,too. Just be sure to add seam allowance.
Oh yes! Me too! Just remember to add seam allowance though right! 😁
I've also done the opposite - cut one on the fold instead of two separate pieces to save the seam allowance in say a skirt where it doesn't matter if less panels - only slight design change.
So many great tips! I love that double fold idea, so clever!
You have such a comprehensive and useful set of sewing tips!! I learn so so much from you-- thank you 😊
I don't follow the layout, I may look at it occasionally just to see, but I almost always purchase a quarter yrd less fabric that the pattern calls for and still have left over. I cut the largest piece that needs to be on the fold first, folding the fabric only as wide as needs to be, then the smaller pieces that need to be on fold, then using a single layer of fabric, to lay out the rest of the pieces.
Even if I do have enough fabric I like to use the smallest amount possible. I also think some small pieces like pockets can be cut on the cross grain.
If the pocket is inseam & hidden, I sometimes cut it from a lighter weight fabric altogether. Or I will use a contrasting fabric and perhaps edge cuffs/collar similarly - so not having enough fabric looks like I chose the 2nd fabric "on purpose".
Clever girl! How silly of me to be so lockstep about pockets being on straight of grain, when they really don't have to be. Thanks for this useful tip!
🤯🤯🤯create two fold lines....brilliant!
Thank you! Our parents, grandparents, and/or great-grandparents were survivors of the Great Depression. They taught us to always lay out patterns to never water fabric. Fabric pieces can be pieced together to make doll clothes, bags, and other things.
So, watching RUclipsrs wasting fabric, while laying out patterns, makes me face-palm.
Me too. It also makes me wince when they use wrinkled fabric, all those wrinkles add up.
Yes! Like you, I was taught to sew by a Depression/WWII mother. We always laid out patterns to use the least amount of fabric, every time! We also reworked our dresses as fashions and hemlines changed. Watching sewing videos that waste fabric and ignore grainlines and mismatch fabric nap are so cringy!
I saw one YT seamstress use leftover pieces to stuff a handmade poof and she also uses it for dog bed stuffing - dog bed is made of old towels and stuffed - to donate to shelters for animals. Her and her mom quilt and sew and have tons of scraps.
@@expatpiskie
You can't hate young people for not ironing. If it werent for this channel I wouldn't have even thought of ironing while sewing.
@@ashlynnheller8400 Who said I hated anyone?
The truth is that wrinkled fabric makes cutting out less accurate. I just feel that those who don't iron their fabric are making life harder for themselves.
I like to thrift fabrics, so there's not always enough to make the garment I have in mind - so these ideas are really helpful for me - thank you!
I started sewing using offcuts and also making my own patterns (with the help of my teacher), so I've become good at fabric tetris! I don't think I've actually looked at cutting layouts, honestly.
I try to use selvedges as much as I can because I'm lazy and it's less edges to finish, and I've definitely done the double fold trick!
Recently I realized that I have been sewing for over half a century (doing my own designs for over three decades) and do many of these things you mention automatically. I was watching this video with an idea about whether it would be useful for textiles students. Your videos are aimed at students but as a teacher I still need to preview videos before showing.
And adding my two cents worth to the discussion...occasionally, when I am having to squeak a design out of less than an optimal amount of fabric, some of the seam allowances of my interior pieces (eg. facings) may wind up with a small chunk missing if a main pattern piece needs that fabric more. The “chunk” never extends within 1/4” of the sewing line or (God forbid) across the sewing line. Usually these pieces require fusible, which can be cut exactly, and this helps smooth that edge and remove any construction guesswork.
Additionally a corner might not be a corner (eg. under arm on side seam) as long as it does not shorten the sewing line in either direction. It is helpful to mark where the sewing lines meet in this instance.
I just used the double fold for some neck pillows was cutting out. I needed 2 of the same on a fold but still needed to have enough of the fabric to make the tote bag. Worked perfect!
You are so right about the top and tail rule. I have always had light-sensitive eyes, so I never go outside without my polarised sunglasses (even in winter). Whilst wearing these, it is very obvious which manufacturers have cut corners by top-and-tailing their pattern pieces - it makes some pieces look darker and mismatched. Upholstered seats in cars, trains, planes, etc are the main culprits; but also some of the cheaper "non-branded" clothing stores. If the price seems to be too good to be true - try it on and look for colour/shade matching with sunglasses on, and check for pattern matching and symmetry of the garment. I've even found garments that were not cut on the straight grain - there is no fix for that. Whilst being worn, the grain line of a finished garment should be vertical, from shoulder to hip, center front staying where it should be - this helps the garment sit correctly with no warping of seam lines after the first wash, and it will drape evenly. I've seen hems that are higher on the left compared to the right, but when taken off and measured are actually the same length. With regard to using the woven selvedge; I have done it, but I prefer to clip it as for a curved seam; my reason being that if fabric is going to shrink, it will be most noticeable at the selvedge as the fabric is more tightly woven so shrinkage will be magnified here, creating a rippled seam after washing.
When I cut a pattern of multiple pieces like a blouse or dress. I always lay down the largest pieces first. Many times I can get facings etc from the scraps. It is so important to pay attention to the grain. I have seen so many vloggers here who never seem to measure for the grain of the fabric on a pattern they are about to cut. They just guess what looks straight. I lay them out for what I think is straight and when I check it with the measuring tape, no I was off. Even a little matters. Don't guess, always measure. Also when you fold both selvedges to the center, measure to be sure it is on the grain. I so seldom hearing that mentioned or demonstrated. Good video.
That double-fold tip blew my mind! Thank you!
Your videos are so helpful to this new to sewing clothing person. My biggest challenge with cutting fabric is just lack of space. We have dogs, so if I use the floor then I risk getting fur in my fabric. Our dining table has a bumpy and uneven top, so that's not an option. I'm trying to rearrange furniture so i can fit a bigger flat table in somewhere.
Personal problems aside, you explain everything so nicely and your videos show everything so clearly. Thank you!
Sometimes fabric stores will let you cut your pattern out in their class room. Or use a folding cardboard cutting board on your table or bed. I have to shut my bedroom door to keep my dog and cat out if I use my bed...kills my back, but it gets the job done.
You can buy cutting mats. You can recycle large pieces of cardboard appliances, etc come in.
Store them upright behind a door or couch or table next to a wall.😄
I am new to sewing, I am going to make my own pattern following grain line. Your knowledge and skill inspire me. Easy to listen and you explain so clearly each step. I do wish more knowledge on settings on machines though for fabric sewing, and tips. I wish you the best of health with your treatments, and hope you beat this and come back as vibrant as usual. Great style you have.
I honestly didn't know people still followed those cutting layouts 🤣 I usually slide my pattern pieces all over so that I can put armscythes up under collar cut outs and really use every cm of fabric I can get
Hmmm,
Hi ??
As an enthusiastic self-taught sewer, I do believe everything that could be done incorrectly, I’ve done. I was so proud of my sewing though, and unstoppable until...I flipped my pattern pieces end-for-end on an A-line skirt being constructed from a beautiful soft PLAID wool. My backside was going in 4 different directions when I walked that day! Lol
I quietly put that mess away never to be seen again.
The last tip is awesome. So simple but I wouldn't though about it
I used to make a lot of pleated shorts/pants. I loved making the pockets in a super soft old bed sheet also facings. So when I put my hands in my pockets it felt nice, and it wasn't bulky. I remember making a t-shirt top when I was a teenager. It turned out great except for the fold line not never came out. So after that, anytime I made something with knit fabric I would refold it so I had two folded edges and the original fold line wasn't part of the garment.
I can't tell you how educational this video was for me! I'm a seasoned sewist but I have often wondered how far out of the instructions I could actually get away with. Fabric is so expensive nowadays!
Long time viewer, but just wanted to give you a big THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks. Save a lot of fabric these ways!
An easy way to "copy" your grain-lines in your paper pattern pieces, when you want to flip the pattern piece...is folding the paper pattern along/on the grain-line. So you don't have to have to redraw that information. And it's so nuch more easy to see that your pattern pieces are still are on the correct grain of the fabric. ✌🏻
I was shown the double fold technique at high school in the 70s. I was surprised that I had never seen it in pattern layout once I started to buy patterns. Because it is such a handy hint I always share this tip with anyone that will listen. Thank you for letting me know that it is a real tip and not something that I was starting to think I was the only one to know it. I like all your tips, tricks and techniques and thank you for sharing them.Regards Christine 🙋♀️🇦🇺👍🏻😊
I have seen it in a pattern layout - my most recent project was a T-shirt pattern. And it specifically stated to fold the fabric sides to middle before cutting out the front and back pieces. It saved so much fabric I was able to get 2 T-shirts from the fabric instead of the 1 I was planning to make.
I'm someone else who ignores layouts... other than the cardinal rule of the grainline! I often use printed fabrics, so the pieces need to go one way for that (although I do flip head-to-tail on plain fabrics, or two-way patterns, as they tend to be jerseys not woven). I also save the cabbage from one project, and use it for things like pocket linings for the next.
Thank you! You've clarified something for me in #5, cutting on the fold. I cut out a little summer/sun dress yesterday in accordance with the pattern placement instructions and I've got sooooo much left over fabric !!! So I'm really glad you covered this issue. I'm definitely gonna put that tip into action next time. Also I'm only 5 foot tall, so I'm always gonna have too much fabric if I buy the amount directed on the pattern.
I have also (to ensure I don't end up with big flowers right on my boobs) cut in a single layer. If you do this you have to remind yourself to flip the pattern piece over or you won't have a mirror image.
Yes!! I forgot to mention single layer!! And your right, it's always a good idea to check your print placement!
True ,
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Excellent point not only for seeing but just for buying already made clothes. Went to a school concert my daughters were involved with. Conductor of the orchestra was a chubby middle aged teacher. She had her back to the audience as she was conducting wearing a white dress with multi colored circles throughout. Problem was one was right over her backside “perfectly” centered. Big distraction!!
I have recently taken up sewing again and am buying secondhand and vintage fabrics on eBay for sustainability reasons. These tips will really help me get the most out of my fabric.
Easy listening,simple explanations.Thank you. I now follow.
I am saving meters of fabric by deliberately ignoring the layout. It's millimetre work but so much more worth it because you'll collect so much less cabbage
I think some Burda patterns are very guilty of creating a lot of cabbage. I didn't use them much, but i have several copies of this magazine, and i look at the instructions/layouts and i sometimes wonder WHY do they leave so much unused fabric..... a waste of money! And to add insult to the injury, sometimes, the garments they show don't look very professional/couture/expensive.
In couture fashion, if you watch some documentaries, you'll see how much cabbage they produce. But if they can make clothes that look expensive and are of high quality, then i find it more acceptable.
I love cabbage, but I don't think that's what you mean by cabbage. What is this cabbage?
@@marshwetland3808 cabbage is an old fashion word for fabric scraps of all possible sizes, for some it is tiny snippets, for others 50cm worth of fabric
I often use thrifted items such as curtains for fabric so try to keep the finished hem for the hem on my garment.
I take apart extra-large tshirts and recut them to fit me in a more feminine style. I try to use the hem of the garment, and especially the sleeves. Saves a lot of time.
My biggest trick is piecing things together. If an extra seam in the garment makes it easier to cut out, I adjust the pattern so it has an extra seam. Either in a place that still looks good or seams in places that nobody will notice.
Facings and pockets I piece together of the leftover fabric. And skirt patterns I usually make up myself according to how much fabric I have and what design fits best. On my last project I slimmed down the skirt pieces of the dress and instead made extra gores to make up for the lost width.
Piecing is period. More and smaller pieces I find saves more fabric than a few huge pieces.
Definitely! I've got jumpers whose bodice backs have 3or4 pieces with lengthwise seams.
O-o-o-o goodie! No more feeling guilty that I've used a smidgen of selvage in a seam allowance! When short of fabric I've even used a lengthwise bit of the selvage in my seam allowance for a lining piece or somewhere else where it wouldn't be seen or felt. That used to bother me so much, I've done it for as long as I can remember and it always felt a bit like cheating. Thank you so much - now I feel validated! One little caveat though - don't use selvage as seam allowance if it's very thick (it can be scratchy) or if you haven't washed your fabric first - some selvages will shrink. (DON'T ask me how I know this)
I haven't used the exact layout of a pattern for years; especially for knits. I DO stay on-grain always though, that was a hard and fast rule my mother taught me and I can never break it or I'd sense her spirit looking over my shoulder and frowning at me - talk about guilt! 😁
I use the selvedge in the seam allowance all the time. In fact I prefer it, since it means that seam is already finished. I've also used the double fold and bias binding methods. I'm thinking to try a method for changing the pattern layout that I've never done before: adding seams. I have a dress pattern that calls for 60" fabric and I want to use a longer 45" fabric from my stash. So my plan is to break it down into smaller pieces. Looking at the pattern, it looks like a fairly straightforward fix--possibly as simple as cutting the skirt pieces in half--but I'm definitely going to make up my altered pattern with an old sheet before I use it on the unique fabric!
Thanks for this, especially the suggestion on hem allowances. I usually refold my fabric into the narrowest sections that fit the pa
ttern pieces that need to be on the fold. I have also cut skirts on the cross-grain.
Good tip about using bias binding for hem allowance
I have used the refold idea to get two pieces with a fold in them on my fabric. I love to use vintage fabric so I don't always have the option of enough yards.
Wow! I am so proud of myself. I have been doing this forever! The problem solving aspect of sewing really motivates me. (it's OK, my friends think I'm a freak. I taught myself to read at 3yrs of age. I thought everyone did that!) LOL. Love your channel. Thank you for sharing. You're a great teacher!
Well I remember picking up a pattern when I was 19 my father passed away got me a sewing machine from him I was overweight and I need an outfit for something and I used a oversized pair of men's pinstripe suits pants and made it two piece outfit out of a pattern skirt and vest followed it properly because it came out perfect for Christmas. didn't realize that people don't know how to read these things. Must of did a good job useing the whole pants and not waisting or needing more . Cool to know.
Great video! I’ve always found it bizarre that the pattern companies seem to want users to place the fabric right sides together and then lay out the pattern pieces. I like to pattern match, or at least choose where I want elements to be visible, so I always lay my fabric with the design print on the outside.
I NEVER follow the layout. It wastes SO MUCH fabric. It helps a newer sewer with grainlines and such but once you figure things out you can just ignore the layouts.
I dont either. Usually too much waste.
I totally agree!!
I consider it a guide. I do the pieces that go on the fold first, esp the ones that start on one side of the fold and wrap around, (usually neck facings) I have also refolded my fabric in another direction, cut ends together. I use this method when using a border print. My nephew picked out a bunch of fabric for shorts, he was four. Most of the prints were all over prints, which took 1/2 yard each. Then he found a shark border print. I think that I had to get a yard in order to cut it out. I had a lot of left over fabric on that one. I do not remember what I did the the left over fabric, I probably just used it as an all print for shorts or a pillow for camping.
I haven't even looked at these guides. Often I even skip cutting on double fabric. Understand it's faster, but still a bit wasteful.
Several times I've had the grain line of a part be 90° off the fabric print. This caught me off guard a couple of times when I was getting started. Now I always examine the print before I trust the cutting instructions and sometimes this means buying more fabric than the envelope suggests.
I’ve never followed the pattern layout. One tip I’ve recently learned is your last one. I’ve always folded the fabric selvage to selvage and cut out my pieces. Doing a half fold will often work if it’s a narrow piece and saves so much fabric! A real eye opener. Love it when you give us useful tips, I’m an older sewer but I’m still learning new things! Thank you!
I usually have to shorten my patterns, so if I can, I lay the shortened pieces on my cutting board in my new layout, then measure how much fabric I need. Depending on the item, I can save 1/4 to 1/2 yard/meter.
Layouts are often the same for several sizes. If you're making a small size in the group, chances are you can tighten up the layout quite a bit.
Some pieces can be laid off grain, like pocket bags, back neck facings, welts ... if you're not sure it will work, don't! This is a pretty advanced technique, needing expert sewing and fabric knowledge.
Also, sometimes you can switch crosswise for lengthwise grain. I often do this for waistbands.
Finally, as another commenter said, check your fabric width. Even an inch / couple of centimeters can help!
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@@jameschang3100 Hi!
@@lizcademy4809 how are you doing today
@@jameschang3100 Quite well. How about you?
Thanks so much for these tips Evelyn, great info! Also I love the embroidery on your top (taking a blackwork embroidery class).
I love these tips. Especially using a bit of selvage and folding to the center to get two folds. Thank you for the great information. I really love your videos and have learned so much.
I use self drafted patterns and stretchy or printed fabrics so when I lay my pattern down, I find the greater stretch or the direction of the prints since I want to make them look the best and it would look as flattering like a professional garment. If I was to use a fabric or print that has a very obvious direction or nap or something, I would lay the fabric flat so I could cut on one layer or separate my pattern pieces so I can probably keep the directions going the same way.
Done it this way forever! I normally reduce fabric purchase by a fourth by finding my own layout.
You. Are. A. Teacher. Fun!
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LOVED this!!!!! Thank you @Evelyn Wood!!!!
Excellent idea on the double fold!
Great tips....thank you....I have used some of the tips you mentioned.
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Excellent tip on folding our fabric! I definitely could use that tip. Thank you Evelyn!
Love the top you're wearing!! Super! And thanks for the amazing tips!
It did not occur to me as a beginner that cut on fold also means towards the grainline. So yeah, I folded it lengthwise and lost all the good stretch in my fabric. Lucky for me it still fits, so I will get some use out of it. I am about 2 weeks late to use the tip accurately, but will in the future.
Thanks evelyn your tips are so useful.especially those on cutting the pattern and saving fabric.
Tips and tricks are fantastic.thanks again.ann
You're most welcome Ann! 😁
Similar to the double fold but sometimes i will fold a single fold narrower and cut a single layer piece on the other side if there are many single layer pieces and a lot of waste on the fold.
Thank you! This is very informative.
Great tips for me as a beginner sewist. Thank you, Evelyn 🇬🇧🧡
Great tips Evelyn, especially the one about contrasting fabric for pockets, facings and such...that never occurred to me. My mother taught me to use other fabric to make facings for hems in pants...that has been a game-changer for my son who is 6 ft 6 inches tall.
So, how do YOU like to save fabric on sewing pattern layouts? ✂️✂️
If you want to lean more about making great quality garments with me, join me online at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I am going to use that double-fold trick today, for a very different reason. I bought an entire roll of muslin at 120" wide, about a year ago, without realizing how *utterly obnoxious* it is to try and cut anything out, at that width. Getting two fold lines at once is great! I'm actually going to be able to lay things out somewhat *closer* to how the stated layout looks (which in my case is also going to save some fabric).
I also have a pair of pants that I might just be able to get right, if I supplement the hem. I was going to do piecing at the waist, because it's partly covered by a wide belt, but I am super nervous about it.
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you.
Creating more folds is a life hack if I ever saw one! I do that a lot. For my next project with a ready made pattern I wanted to follow the suggested layout, thinking they they suggest the best way but now I will assess it first using your guidelines. Thanks!
I had often wondered why commercial patterns seem to provide generous amounts of fabric for cutting layouts. I recently read an article that explained the fabric amounts included are to accommodate all sizes of the pattern. A person who is sewing the largest size will need the full amount, but one who is sewing a smaller size may not. Definitely try Evelyn's great tips and you may be able to save some fabric you can use for another project. Happy sewing.
@@laurajones4088 that makes sense! Thanks for pointing that out
Wonderful Melissa. I can't wait to hear about your results!😀
Hi Evelyn, this brings back memories from way back, when I used to do a lot of sewing. Juggling things round to try find that extra little bit ! It was so satisfying when it happened. Thankyou for sharing this, a great reminder and so useful to know about.
Sometimes when having to squeeze - it might only work with multiple pieces after cutting out strategically some pieces and then use the "gaps" and remainders to cut out smaller pieces after unfolding whats left. But I do recognise that takes confidence and experience. I am the queen of squeeze, and I am a boundary pusher, but beginners tend to use so much more than they need to if allowed. I ve never thought about following cutting guidelines since high school! But I think it shows how well we were taught back then. The only younger ppll today who Ive met, and who are really competant sewers, are ones who went to design school. Who is even teaching young people today??