WHY DON"T MY SEAMS MATCH? Is it a pattern tracing, fabric cutting or pinning issue? Sewing Q&A
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- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2024
- If you're a beginner sewer, you might find that your seams don't match up? Or the pattern pieces don't match up when you pin then together? Let's talk about if it's a pattern tracing, fabric cutting or pinning issue causing you sewing problems!
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But the real question is, why do mistakes always add up? Why do they never seem to cancel each other out? That’s what I want to know! 😆😂😉
It never cancels out, that’s why there’s no answer. Any crafter of any craft, knows this. Ever see a table or bookcase with one edge longer than another? Ever see a couch with one side longer than another? Ever see a TV with one side longer? Think of a baker, if they add too much of this, or too less of this… that’s why they have recipes or percentages, no baker sells a bad loaf because they forgot something. But, the main point here, is, learn from your mistakes, make lemonade out of lemons. Turn the mistake into a contrasting feature, there are lots of ways to cover up mistakes.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@SparkyOne549 That is how I ended up with a patchwork skirt with a lot of pockets.. 😂😂🤗
Because it needs to be exactly balanced to even it out. Any imbalance will mean it doesn’t match. As an artifact that’s not good odds. If you want that unicorn balance it’s really best to just be exacting. And iron iron iron. Iron pattern and fabric and then iron them together.
I think if it evens out, then we may not notice. So we have a sample bias of only noticing the (likely more plentiful) situations in which the errors do not cancel out.
Yeah! My pattern pieces never fit together like they are shown in the videos. Very timely Evelyn. Thank you for the video.
I'm watching this 3 years after you posted it. Well, I recently found out about your medical challenges. I am praying for you everyday and we are all looking forward to seeing you again.
As I heard someone say in another video for quilting: “ a hair here and a hair there adds up to a full ponytail pretty quick!”
Watching your video was like watching a highlight reel of all my usual mistakes from rushing and just not taking the time I should 🤣🤣 love your videos! You’re such a wonderful teacher!
you're a lovely teacher, the kind of person that make us want to learn more and improve instead of feeling silly about our mistakes 😁 thank you so much, dear evelyn
Aww thankyou so much! Your kind comments let me know I'm on the right track! 😄
Loved that video! It was like a murder mystery but sewing edition. And you're such a amazing sleuth, I mean, teacher !
🤣🤣🤣 Ha ha Ive never thought of it like that! But I think your right! It is about solving the mystety! And if the sewing problem/mystery is not solved, someone or something may end up hurt for sure🤣🤣 ❤
@@Evelyn__Wood You're the Miss Fisher of sewing mysteries!
Yes!!!!! I will take that job! 😃
You look like Snow White in this video.
The first thing I thought!
I did NOT think of that at all, but now that ya mention it... absolutely! She looks exactly like “Snow White”! What a nice compliment for her to receive. Let’s see... it’s the hair style with the headband today, and the color, also, ...obviously, the skin tone is spot on (& looks like flawless bone porcelain (Oh, this lady enviable!🤩😳🙄🤩), the “rose colored lips”, rosy cheeks, and lastly, the navy royal blue color is fantastic today! You go girl! 👍 👏👏👏👏😁😁😁
I just said that to my daughter. And as you can see, I know Snow White!
Lessons we can take beyond the sewing room: To make progress in life we must seek to learn from our mistakes, take one step at a time, study where we got off track and where we stayed on course, seek help and wisdom from your fellow travelers, and most of all, keep trying. Thank you!
ABSOLUTLY words to live by there!! ❤❤
In my learning process the Main reason Form different length at the end was the sewing. The presser foot pushes the upper fabric in a small wave. While I remove the pin, the wave runs to the next pin. At the end the sum of these tiny waves are the amount of too much fabric. To fix this you have to support the upper fabric in the sewing process.
So, that doesn’t just happen to me? I was beginning, to question my sanity....😄
Same lol 😂
No, I've had it happen to me a few times, but I tend to stretch the fabric or cut of the excess to get them together while sewing on the machine. My method isn't a good one. I like this better. An askew garment isn't what I want.
Same
Nope! Every stage of construction will make ANY margin of error magnify itself thru every stage. Also - remember youre matching SEAM lines, NOT cut edge. SO, when i doubt, get your measuring tape and measure the actual seam line on the pattern (1.5 cm in from the cut edge) and if they match, its the angle of the cut end edge that can make it look like its too long. Also different seams have different ease built in. And for those who dont, when I do skirt seams, I pin the top, the hem - hold it out straight, pin the very centre and then graduate the seam along gently. SOmetimes if a cut edge on a skirt fro example is cutting across the grain of the fabric, it can easily stretch, so just ease that seam line in. Took me years to get the hang o fthis. And yes - some patterns really are crap...but you wont often now if its you or the attern until youre really experienced! But when in boubt - just blame the patterning gods!! LOL
Coming to this late, but this is really helpful! Only left out "cat and/or toddlers running across the fabric you have to lay out on the floor." 😆
😂
Cutting pieces on the fold is always tricky and can easily give one piece grain's askew, like in the photo. How many times do we buy fabric and find that the assistant cut the fabric off-grain, I always buy a little extra to allow for that happening. In woven materials my tip is, always prewash the fabric and then do the pulling of one thread near the top of fabric, along the cross grain (weft of fabric, i.e. from selvedge to selvedge); getting harder to do as I grow older and the eyes are not as good as they used to be, LOL. Then it leaves you with a straight line, that you can trim along. Pin along top/sides, iron it, and that assists the grain being straight and flat prior to folding, layout of pattern and cutting.
That said, Evelyn, thank you so much for the tracing, pinning, measuring tips when back-tracking and finding our mistakes. Reading the comments have given further great suggestions, as well. I hoped that mine has helped someone too. Would love to see a similar video on how to layout pattern pieces, so, fabric patterns match when assembling a garment. Nothing worse than finding your beautiful floral pattern on your back piece is 2cm out of alignment to the front panel, when assembling. I think that would also be a great video for beginners. I hope that you haven't done that already, and I have missed it. Have a wonderful day, Evelyn, and I hope the rain is bringing a smile to your face; one month's in one week, per BOM for Qld. Wow...
Most beginning sewists try to save money by buying only what the envelope calls for. I'm like you. I buy extra and prewash. It is so worth it! Buying extra fabric is cheaper than therapy. Folding on grain is hard especially when the piece of fabric is large. One trick is to cut a piece of fabric larger than the pattern piece doubled and pull threads at the edges of that piece. Then match up the lines left behind. The fold is then parallel to the lines so it's on grain too. If I need 2 pieces cut on fold I cut them separately. When I was starting out I would double the fabric and then fold it into 4 layers. It never occurred to me that the outer layer has farther to travel around the fold and will always come out wider than the inner layer.
I’d forgotten that trick about pulling a thread from selvage to selvage thanks!
I have been sewing for a long time, and one of the reasons I gave up garment sewing was problems with the patterns. Years ago, I took a tailoring class at a local university, spent a lot of money on my fabric, and when I went to cut it out there was a pocket that crossed a princess seamline that just didn’t make sense. Fortunately I had a professor to ask, and she said it was a mistake in the pattern, and that it happens all the time. If I had been on my own, I might have ruined my project. I now occasionally teach sewing, and I see the patterns tripping people up all the time. If the pattern companies want to encourage people to sew, they need a lot better editing and oversight.
I always figured I just screwed up. So I adjust and move on. 90 per cent of my sewing is adjusting. I have a short round figure so "standard" is way beyond me so I got real good at adjusting early on. If you lower your expectations, you raise the reward factor when it works out for you.
Let me know your biggest takeaway, which do you think your main issue is? And how you liked the Q&A style video, if it's popular I'll do it again! 😄
Thank you so much. I love learning from you! I am in the throws of starting over with pant muslin #3, because sizing down was causing havoc with incremental measurement mistakes. Starting from scratch and exact measurements should bring the joy back into this project.
All of your comments match my experience as a pattern maker and seamstress. My training matches your answers. I do enjoy your presentations very much.
Phyllis
Canada
Evelyn, I am glad you talked about the grainline here. I talked about it in my Jacket video a few weeks ago. Pattern pieces with grainlines should be the same length from top to bottom helping to reduce the problem your student has. As a beginner sewer ions ago I learned this lesson the hard way.
Thanks for the q&a , more information is always helpful, and this is the stuff not in the books
Start cutting just inside the lines you draw on the fabric, to decrease the slight scaling up of the pattern!
Walking the tape ? So that’s how you measure a curve. I’m so pleased to learn that today as I’ve struggled with that very problem. Thank you for helping me to not pull all my hair out. 💕
Great reminder sewing tips. I forgot that pinning could create some sewing issues such as pattern walking. Thank you for this important reminder!
My pleadure!! 😃
I have just really discovered your channel. I have been reading books by Adele Margolis and other experienced seamstresses and pattern makers of the 40s - 70s and I was excited to see the way you explained things. It is very similar. A lot of making clothes is art and problem solving. You are bringing back techniques I have really only seen in vintage books. Thank you for giving hands on examples of these ideas and techniques.
Thank you for this! I sew pants and my hems would rarely match. I ended up just cutting them to match, but never considered the reason for it. My take away is to enjoy the process of cutting, take a little care, and don't let small irregularities stop you from finishing a project.
Never thought about all those little tips you gave. Thanks so much Evelyn. You make so much sense. I will be viewing your pinning videos soon. I have been sewing for many years and I love learning new techniques. Thanks again.
Darleen There are always new things to learn right! I'm glad this gave you a few things to think about next time! ❤
It amazes me how clearly you explain everything!
Yes yes yes , it happens all the time and I thought it’s just me. Thanks for pointing that out , small details like this are not talked about often enough
Thank you for sharing Evelyn. It is really kind of you to share free on RUclips even though you have a professional business. You are truly one of a kind.
I will make sure to align the arrows on my pattern pieces with the self edges in future.
The first person to address this! I seriously was starting to think it was only happening to me 😂 thank you for covering this
I use a lot of the free PDF patterns from the net. Each one seems to come out different somehow so measuring and aligning the pattern helps. Mechanical pencils are a must as the lead stays at the same .05 diameter
Never thought of that. Great tip.
Wise words! I’m only a beginner, but I’ve found a couple of mistakes in patterns, such as seamlines that aren’t the same length, or a dart that hasn’t been trued.
I found this very interesting, thank you. I thought I was always just being slapdash with my sewing. I have been sewing on and off for over 60 years and there are little "issues" like this with nearly everything I make - it saps the confidence.
I recently made a doll's shirt; working with scrap fabric and an unsteady hand one of the pieces for the torso ended up slightly off-grain. The first side seam I simply sewed directly top to bottom, I figured it was so small it wouldn't matter, but by the end due to the manipulation I had about 3-4 mm difference; on such a small scale it was quite notorious, and gives an idea of how much it would have become distorted on a full-sized shirt. On the other side I pinned at the start, at the end, and at the middle before sewing, and it stabilized the fabric well enough to match perfectly. So do take your time to match up the seams properly, and pin them to secure the layers, the precaution will be worth it.
One way I keep my students from ending up with one pattern piece longer than the other because of cutting is notching the beginning or crossing point seam lines on their actual pattern pieces so that they can pin those beginning and end points first.
Yes! More Q+A! Very informative video, it makes sense that small variations here and there add up. Thanks for sharing
I have done the same thing quite a few times and with me it's the cutting of the pattern and fabric . Great tips thank you
I love all your videos it help me so much since I’m slow learner and I don’t have self confidence
So glad to see this. It happens to me all the time, and I am very careful.
My tip for not making mistakes in your pattern tracing is that I use very thin nib illustration ink pens. Since I started to do this most of the time my tracing is spot on. Primary using vintage patterns I always trace mine onto medium weight tracing paper. I think my problem was using rotary cutters. I'm truly terrible at using them.
When I was sewing, I had the same problem. Another that is probably related is that I always ended up sewing a little pucker in the seam. Love your videos. I may take up sewing again in the near future. Thanks.
I really appreciate your videos and especially the ones on these little mistakes we all have made. Thank you!
Thank you for this information. Yes all the little things add up.
I love this type of video. You are such a good teacher. I could watch you all day😊. I’ve often had this problem with seams not being the same length. Now I know to back up and check. I think I’m always in a hurry to get to the actual sewing part!
Your thinking in whether or not to make this video was spot on - this is the kind of info that really helps, and you are very good at making it simple & kind. Thank you xxx
I’m always psycho about ironing whenever I sew. When I used to use patterns I noticed that ironing the pattern paper was a really really important step. The paper they use is a bit like seersucker and ironing flat fixes that. Don’t let things get wet from steam since both paper and fabric stretch oddly. Really watch the grain of fabric. Fabric stretches differently depending on the angle of the grain. The pattern should tell you what to do with the grain. Iron iron iron.
And I love Q&A.
Very interesting especially about the way you pin a garment together. I like the way you did the question and answered it in such detail.
OMG yes. Little bits add up over the course of the process. Pattern fitting is important, all these procedures matter. That’s why we’re here. Getting better at our skills so we can accomplish what we envision!
This was really helpful! Especially walking the pattern!
Follow all of Evelyn’ tips, but, there is often “unknown ease” built into the pattern. McCalls patterns often have this issue. I ALWAYS pin from the hem up and ease in any extra fabric into the hip area. Works out every time.
I loved this video - really informative! I've had this problem more than I'd like to admit and I think it's a pinning issue as it seems to mostly happen with fabric that has a pile, although I don't think the fabric sliding over itself helps either.
I hate working with pile, or slippery fabric. Then you've got the pile has to all go the same direction.....
I love love your videos....ive been sewing off and on for nearly 50 years and im still learning how to do it better
I don't think we ever stop learning! 😄
Thank you for sharing all your sewing tipes and hints. After watching your videos, I always want to go to my sewing machine to finish or start a project. I love sewing by hands but a sewing machine is often a better choice for larger projects. Thanks again.
Hi Evelyn!
First I want to make you a compliment: you explain everything so nice and with a lot of patience. It is really easy to follow. And I really can see the effort that you put in to make this videos to teach us something. It is very enjoyable I have to say.
Now here is my question: if the seam allowance is a little bit off, does it matter? Because you can cut it down after sewing both pieces together and before finishing the seam?
I hope you understand what I mean, because english is not my language and I‘m new to sewing (don‘t know the right vocabulary yet).
Have a great day!
Wonderful video. Makes sense all the added mm. Also re assuring that I'm not alone with this issue.
Definitely not alone Ramona! 😄
Thank you so much Evelyn this was a huge problem for me I now know what to do and will pay more attention to each steps. 😊
This very helpful, instructive video reminds me so much of my Needlework teacher at school banging on about meticulous accuracy at each step. If she’d started from the problems that happen if you aren’t, then I might have listened better! Mind you, I have learned from my mistakes. 🤪
🤣🤣 I agree it is hard to know why it's important to cut straight, until you've have to deal with uneven pattern pieces!
This was a lot of information, but very helpful. I am soooo glad this question was asked. I was getting frustrated! this happens to me every TIME!!
I found the whole video quite informative. But, when you started answering the question about why the pattern pieces don't match up, that was very interesting to me. TY for sharing your knowledge and techniques with us.
Loved the advice on how to pin. Will definitely be using that method going forward
SO helpful! Thank you. I've been sewing for quite a while but I still have these issues. I'm trying to up my game, and this information was very helpful.
I'm happy to help! It's little things like this that will up your sewing game for sure! 😀
I liked this vidio. What I learned was pinning top edge and bottom edge . Then easing in. Thank you. Velma. Ps. I am 93 and I am still learning.
loved having this q&A. it never occured to me that how I pinned (order) would affect the length! off to watch that video!
🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦 my seams never ever EVER match!! But this video has explained to me every reason they don't! Thank you so so much. I cant wait to make another garment using your tips!! I'm so chuffed!! Thanks again. Xx
I sew small projects more often than clothes, but your videos are useful even there. This one I need, and the one about pre-washing fabric, and the one about squaring up material. I especially appreciaited the one about finding the selvage on scraps. Keep up the good work.
These videos saved me and made me keep going. God bless you!
I'm happy to hear that 😄😄
Omg, mg my brain is like SERIOUSLY!?!? I ALWAYS end up with mismatched seams. It's totally because of pinning wrong and pushing the fabric. Thank you so much for explaining so clearly. Also my cutting leaves MUCH to be desired. I can never seem to cut fabric properly, especially knit or rayon. I'll go search through your videos for proper cutting techniques. THANK YOU!!!!! I just found your channel and have already learned so much. 💜
thank you Evelyn, I've been having this issue too, now I know how to figure out what I did wrong, and how to fix the problem.
Wonderful!! I hope it helps you!!
Yes! This constantly happened to most my long seams when I started sewing!! I was using the bodice part and lengthening to make it full length.. it was the bias as I pinned since they were cut at the same time. The rayon fabrics walked as I sewed. Walking foot and a very long cutting/pinning board helped solve the problem.
Great question from Marcie and fantastic walk through. I thought it was just me :D Fabric cut on the bias looks stunning when the garment is finished, but one must be very careful not to stretch it while pinning/basting/sewing or it will warp and stretch. Sometimes steaming with an iron can help a bit. x
Oh my gosh, thank you, thank you, now I know how to correct this problem. It has happened to me more times than I can count.
I’m starring in awe at the dress in the background! I need to make that!
Somehow I missed some of your lovely videos! I’m so busy in your Vintage Sewing School, I missed a treasure trove of videos. Yeah, me! More to love and learn.
Don't the feed dogs also pull the bottom fabric at a very slightly different rate than the top fabric?
Yes!! Always sew with the most stable fabric on top!
That is the problem I have sometimes.
I usually sew with my IDT engaged (if sewing on my Pfaff) or use my MuVIt™ Foot (if sewing on my Brother) for this very reason if I am using dissimilar fabrics; for other machines - use a walking foot. This will keep the top and bottom fabrics feeding at the same rate.
This would have been my first and primary reason I would have suggested. On a long skirt it can easily make a half inch difference if you aren't pinning and holding the fabric or using a walking foot. Used to frustrate me all the time when making garments. Finally figured out out when I became a quilter!!!
That has always driven me crazy. My walking foot is worth it's weight in gold. Also silky fabric always has layers that seem to fight each other. Tear away stabilizer between the layers usually makes them behave.
I think I added mm to many things, including pleats, for a total of 1 cm off. Tho I did not stay stitch my round skirty bit, it may have stretched on the curve, too. I can definitely pin differently to eat more of that up properly.
Watched this in time to help me with my first woven cloth sleeves.
Thank you!
I have had this happen to me on occasion. Never thought about the grain line being off a bit. Pretty sure that's what happened. From now on I'll be extra careful. Thanks, Evelyn! Please do more of these videos.
Thanks for watching!
Same here. I always thought that the grainline on the top would be the same on the bottom. I guess would have to pin them together before cutting??
I just found this channel-as I’ve just gotten more interested in seeing. One of my main issues is always the fabric itself seems to warp and stretch when I’m just trying to cut it out!!!! I hope that will be addressed in another video! And I mean chiefly Upholstry fabric for curtains.
Thank you. Great video! It was very helpful - especially regarding measuring and pinning. Probably the take away is for me to not give in and keep looking to improve on my process. Which I will 😊
Hi Evelyn!! Great vlog.. I’ve had this happen to me a couple of times.. Fabulous information to find out why this happened....
💜💜🧵🧵
Glad you found it useful!!
Thank you! So informative! Love your channel.
Loved it! Thank you.
Thank you, this is so helpful!!
Very helpful--thank you
Thank you for all the information! It’s been very helpful
Firstly, I love your videos. So many are ruined by the voice of the presenter but your voice is so pleasant to listen to and your explanations are wonderfully clear. One question, though - I have always pinned my pattern pieces and cut out around them while they're pinned to the fabric. Is this wrong? This is the first time I've ever heard of tracing around the pattern. I did sewing at school (early 60s) and I was never taught that.
Thank you for telling us about these things. (I have been a bit sloppy without realizing that it would make so much difference.) I need to cut more accurately.
You are fantastic and so knowledgeable. I love your videos and learn so much. Thanks very much
Fantastic! Please keep doing these! I am a beginner, hoping to become a seamstress one day. Definitely looking into your sewing school! 😁
Very nice lesson, thank you!
Great teaching videos invaluable advice , thank you so much 🥰
Thank you! !! Now I have something that can be fixed! !!
Brilliant!
My beautiful teacher 🙏🙏
Aww that's so sweet! I hope you found it useful!
Wow good explanations Evelyn! I wholly agree because each scenario one faces can differentiate. I found in many instances that patterns are not 100% perfect and have improvised to make it work. Also materials matter too. I like to pin my projects in the center as well to keep my material from slipping and I definitely stay away from roller blades, too risky and I think they are a dangerous sewing tool. Great job in explaining some of the mystery behind the perfection of sewing! Happy sewing everybody!! 🧵👗✂️
So glad you liked it Mary! The ability to improvise is what makes you talented dressmaker I think! ❤
I just finished making a pair of potholders without a pattern and...there was a lot of re-teimming the same pieces as none of them ended up quite the same size. I guess it's time to really sit down and learn the basics
Love it!
So helpful! Thank you!
Thanks so much! That’s so helpful!
Thank you!
This happens to me all the time and unfortunately I'm a visual learner. I need to see you do it to help!
Good video. Just what I needed to know.
Goodness me! I never even knew about all these small little things! Especially that it can be the patterns themselves sometimes. That is soooo helpful, girl! Definitely do more of those types of videos! :) What a shame I can't be part of your "club"! :p
It's rare, but yes, the patterns might not be correct, or you've slightly cut little bits of the pattern without realizing! Vintage Sewing School is online at www.vintagesewingschool.com so you can join us from anywhere 😄 If you have any question just email me at info@evelynwood.com.au
I have recently just discovered your channel and I LOVE YOU!!! One other thing you have not mentioned which I have discovered in home décor projects is - SADLY - that the woven fabric itself could be the problem. I have been doing a lot of home décor sewing and quilting in the last few years - hope to be able to garment sew again some day - but I thought I would share this and maybe you can comment on this. (Bear in mind, these problems could and hopefully are unique to home décor and quilting fabric.) I have found that sometimes the grain is not only off slightly - or a lot - but the "off grain-ness" if I can use that word - it is also not consistent throughout the fabric itself. It is a real pain the butt to do this but what I do with home décor fabric when I discover this is I cut the fabric bigger for each piece, square that piece up then put the pattern down and cut it out. An even bigger problem - and again this could be just in home décor fabric or quilting fabric - that is printed is that the print is off grain. Meaning you have to decide if you want the print to line up or the fabric to be on grain. Oh yes... I wish I were kidding. I ALWAYS buy more fabric than what I need in case I have to compensate for these off grain issues.
Yes I was today, I’m a new sewer
I have this problem now as I am sewing pjs for my 1yr old niece. It's flannel that was cut crooked, & seems to be warped. The front & back of the top are off by almost 1". I prewashed it so maybe this happened as it was drying. The top is going to be long, so i will even the hemline. Its a toile that she will wear & will be warm & cozy. Thats how we learn.
I looked up this video because I just traced my dress pattern onto linen fabric and could tell straight away that the length was different on each side. The shiftiness of the linen seems to be the main culprit in this case. Maybe I should be pinning my linen onto paper first and then tracing my pattern? It just moves around so much! Similar to working with silk!
I am 72 for many years fabrics were "True" the Warp and Weft correctly aligned. You could cut through the selvedge and start a cut line by pulling the thread to get a straight cut line. With many fabrics you could start the cut and tear across from selvedge to selvedge perfect straight line. Oh my distress the first time I used this method and it totally failed and the length on both selvedge's was inches off.