MacGregor Venture 21 Keel Repair
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- How To Repair Your Swing Keel, is a video of my keel repair job. In the process of restoring my 1966 MacGregor Venture 21 I had to remove and repair part of my keel. The fiberglass repair work and bondo filling work is partly shown here in as descriptive and visually educational a way that I can provide for you the viewer. I hope you will have the confidence to tackle this job on your own after seeing me do it, and if you have any questions about removing or repairing a movable keel from your sailboat, please don't hesitate to message me. I'll answer to the best of my knowledge. Thank you for viewing and subscribe if you'd like to see video's of how I painted my sailboat!
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](/img/1.gif)
Exactly what I get to do on mine. Thank you for the video!
Feel free to reach out with questions. I'll be happy to answer whatever I can! I love that boat!
@@MrAngus21ism I picked up a 1976 venture 21 for myself last week. Trailer was really nice but they were using it as a motor boat for the last several years. The keel is completely rusted in place. I can't find any diagram for rigging, and the pictures in the manual for the mast look like they were scanned with a potato. The main sheet makes sense from the text document I found but all of the standing rigging was in a bag. I've watched 2 videos for the 21 keel repair and one had a solid cast keel. I think mine is like yours with bars of it welded together. All of the deck hardware was loose including the bow u bolt which is almost torn through.
@@benjaminnevins5211 when I first got mine, the keel was also Frozen in place. We ended up using hacksaw blades attached to an pneumatic high speed airsoft which is basically an air hacksaw. The blade was thin enough to get in between the hall and the keel material and create a void just right to drop the keel. I took a three-quarter inch flat sheet of plywood, and 4x4s screwed to that piece of plywood the width of the keel with a 2x4 screwed to the top of the 4x4s cut out in notches of one by one distance. The plywood and the 4x4s were the cradle for the keel when it dropped to keep it in the right position. The 2x4 is above the 4x4s with the notches, were there so that I could lift the keel up at different angles and do different work on different places. My keel weighed about 400 lb. You can see the cradle there in that video. After getting the keel down I I slid it onto that furniture dolly for easier movement. Another thing that I did with the hull boys use two 2x6s about 10 ft wide screwed together and set on end perpendicular to the front of the boat, and made another cradle for the back side of the boat and lifted the boat up on cinder blocks off of the trailer. That allowed me to get around the boat a little bit better and to roll that keel in and out a little more. You definitely don't have to do that. But if you're looking at doing paint work it's an easy way to lift the boat. If that is all confusing, please feel free to ask and I will try and re-explain LOL
@@benjaminnevins5211 as for the deck hardware, I put 8 in aluminum backing plates behind all of the screws and used lock washers and new screws. That helped with the support and strength of each of the deck fasteners. I think the rigging should be a three-stay system one forward to a fastener just forward of a bronze loop on the bow. And two somewhere in the middle of the side windows just adjacent to the perpendicular line of the mast side to side on the boat. I don't think it had an aft stay. I know that mine did not. There will be one floating wire on the AFT of the mast and that goes to your boom.
1/8th inch backing plate
Thanks for sharing!! Nice home made resin roller. Wish I lived in California
+Islander Sailboat
It is tought without the sunlight. Heat lamps and indoor work areas are some times able to get through some of the cooler weather, but if it's moist it's hard to make the resin go off. And if using a heat lamp be careful not to be to close and catch the work on fire. It's all very flamable but in the curing stage after a little tacky feeling is had it is a useful way to get it to cure. If no indoor space a coverd space and lots of time with a release agent will allow the resin to cure even in the worst weather. It's all about how much catilyst is added to the mix. Thanks for watching and comenting. Have a great rest of your month!
done this job 3 times on my 67 Venture hull #40. Crack comes back every time. Repairs seem good for a few years then I go at it again. I actually ran in to MacGreagor at a boat show years ago and explained my problem and he said "Yea I Know. That's the end of the boat" . Well obviously I disagree. I have sailed this boat all the way from Santa Barbara to Mexico and back and out to Anacapa Island over 100 times. Having rebuilt everything on the boat, it's now a tough little boat.
Thanks for sharing. I agree with you, it's a little annoying but doesn't stop the boats use or value. Other have to do bottom paint every few years, we do Keep repair ha ha! Hit me up again. I live in Ventura now, I'd love to see your boat! And meet you.
Thanks I plan on putting several layers of fiberglass over the steel ive welded up .the boat will be used in salt water primarily and kept on the trailer when not in use will sent some photos when im done .
Awesome good luck. Be safe and have fun! I look forward to pictures of the finised product!
THANKS IM BEGINNING TO BUILD A WHOLE NEW KEEL FOR MY 1972 VENTURE 2-24 HULL # 4 GOT EVERYTHING WELDED UP AND JUST WAITING FOR IT TO COOL OFF ABIT TO START GLASSING IT MIDDLE OF SUMMER IN FLORIDA .Steve stewart of the good ship JADE AMANDA.
Wow that's ambitious. Good luck. I have heard that one of the years had full steel keel and may not have been glassed. You might want to just coat it heavily with good marine paint and go! send me a link to a picture when your done. Good luck.
One last rememberance. If the head of the keel, that pivots inside the hull, is not the same width as when it came out; you will have side to side wobble. So if your not going to glass it, you can weld a washer on either side to make up the difference. Make sure to have a good second top locator hole in your keel head, and in the inside cavity where the keel sits strait down. Use a bolt to hold the keel in the down position and that should minimize all unnecessary movement of the keel. Hope your project is going well!
I'm currently restoring a 22ft spaceship 1975 the whole cast iron keel ...not the part that goes down the main cast iron part is totally rusted I'm having to grind the whole thing it's crazy work I'm glad to know you can use Bondo I'm going to use red oxide rusty metal primer to coat the metal first before I cover it with Bondo and then I'm just going to paint the crap out of it I don't think I'm going to use fiberglass other than against where the Keel meets up to where the fiberglass of the sailboat is
Michael, the bondo I used is not the Home Depot bondo. I bought it from an Automotive paint store. It's less apt to soak up water than regular bond. The bondo was just the filler and the Fiber glass is the safty net/ strength to keep the bondo in place. Bondo is glass when it's hardened. Any contact by a pointed or blunt object will chip if not break off the bondo completely. I would highly recomend fiberglassing the outside of the whole thing. This will give it some rigidity when you trailer, if that's what your planning. And also if you were to have any movement in the keel under the boat. Which is very likely. Again any contact by any other substance to the bondo may chip crack or completly remove the bondo through breakage. Let me know what you have done and seen. Good luck. Sorry if I didn't get back to you sooner.
Grrrrrr grrrrrrr. Goes the doggy lol.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for making the instructional videos
@@goofy4birds my pleasure! Have a great rest of your winter!
Personally I would have gone with a epoxy system and a marine bottom paint.better adhesion other wise you did a fantastic job.
Kevin Crawley Thank you sir. As the boat sits on a trailer for the main part of it's life I figure the Materials used were what I have knowledge of and have used before so I stuck with what I knew. I agree it would be better to use an epoxy system as long as the epoxy is compatible with the origional left behind structure, then it's all good. Thanks for your post. Have fun and fair winds.
I am currently sailing a 1971 Venture 21, the keel had split apart and the previous owner had it welded together, a new bolt and cable put in. What is disconcerting is the the keel, when in the lowered position, tends to slop around in a seaway. It sways port and starboard when I am hitting some waves. There is play between the keel and trunk and I was wondering if this is a common occurrence on a Venture 21? Any feed back from Venture 21 owners would be greatly appreciated.
My keel does have a little sway. It is almost impossible to get the keel to fit perfectly without getting it stuck, or not being able to fit it in the cavity. A great deal of slop is probably not good but if it is just a small amount, it should not hurt the hull. That is the strongest Part of the boat. Now, to lessen the slop, if there is not already a top through bolt in the center cavity when the keel is down, that holds it from swinging back and forth for and aft, add a through bolt. That will cut back on most of the slop. Please continue messaging me if I am not making sense. I hope this helps. Have a great night and fair winds my friend! These boats are great!
Looks like you are using polyesther resin instead of epoxy, correct? Do you find this works about the same? BTW Great job on this video, very nice and imformative.
I have not used much epoxy resin and so don't know how it matches up in cure time, or mixing qualities. But yes the polyester resin I use is easy to use and fairly easy to clean up. It cures in about a day, with good sun it will cure in time for a second layup in one day. I have not had many loads that went off before I could get the repair work I needed to do, finished. My boat is not constantly on the water so for constant water exposure you may want to research the differences and qualites of expoxy over polyester and choose the one that best fits your needs. I have not experienced any blistering or softening in over 17 years and have had a lot of use of this boat. Good luck and thanks for commenting.
there's an old boy down this way that had done tons of fiberglass work, including lay up, transom and tons of boat repair and he swears by polyester and I know guys that swear by epoxy... seriously, I don't think it makes that much difference... I just read on a boat forum that expoxy is porous and needs to be sealed good... go is gel coat.. hmmmm
Yep that's the truth. It all lies in what you figure is best for your needs. I have had no trouble with this and the gelcote I've used and I have a solid boat with solid repairs!
Here is the first video and beginning of the Keel Repair Teaching Video, copy and past the link and you'll get to see the first part of the repair and then come back to this video to finish learning how to repair your drop keel (swing Keel)
Final MacGregor Venture 21 Keel Bondo, and Fiberglass Glass Repair
MrAngus21ism why didn't he use red oxide rusty metal primer before you put Bondo on
The origional metal had the bondo material applied directly to it. I scuffed it completely with both the sand paper and the grinder. I have been told a paint like Por 15 which would be about the same as the red oxide primer, if applied and allowed to dry, may not adhear to anything else. I wanted my bondo to adhear and be similar to the origional installation. I might have benifitted with a primer, but the metal is sealed with both the bondo material, and the fiberglass that covers it. The metal is solid and hasn't been negatively affected. I am sorry for my slow reply. I hope this helps.
Use scuba diving mask and tank..... :-)
If you want to spend alot of money on replacement parts sure that would work. But one touch of the resin on the scuba equipment and it's junk. Be safe and good luck!
The most important part you didn't film unbelievable the bondoing
ruclips.net/video/3Xe9KEnsNfs/видео.html
this is the last part of the video that I filmed. I thought that I had filmed more and completely captured the repair work but I missed something of lost footage somewere and so these are the best i've got for now. Thanks for watching though and I hope my explainations help you. Good luck!
I would have just painted it you will never keep that water out
+Greg H
So far so good. The boat stays on the trailer when not sailing so it's the best way to keep the metal away from the harsh environment, and it lasts much longer in the salt water covered than it would without a heavy layer. 1966 to today is pretty good longevity. Thanks for comenting though and have a great Easter!
+MrAngus21ism thanks happy Easter also. i stripped mine to bare metal the use por15 not sure if it will work but a least i know i have no water between the glass and the steel .fiberglass i found over the years always forms a pocket layer of water.
That's a good way to do it to im sure and you can more easily get it in and out that way so repair is quick and cheep! Good luck. If I have to do it again I may go that way but I'm pretty sure this will last a while longer! Ha ha
@@ufodude1000 did you strip the whole keel to bare metal and cover with POR 15 or just strip the repair area and cover with POR 15 ??
Ricky Baker mine never had fiberglass over iron i honesty dont remember this comment.