Hey Jimmy, I just want to throw out the idea that it might be cool to run one or two of your trains in the background when you're recording in front of your layout in these videos. Just food for thought assuming it doesn't cause to much noise while recording. Keep up the good work. And God bless
On the question of ribbon rail modeling. I've suggested using weed whacker cord. There is a variety that is sold at Lowes that has a kind of I-beam configuration. Although I have never run a ribbon rail train myself, I believe this would make a good, low resistance anolog
My favorite DCC system is NCE. However, I purchased a TCS CS-105 this past summer. I have not operated yet. It was pricey with extras such as LCC compatable with many other DCC systems and JMRI.
On the topic of DCC on a DC layout: A few months ago, someone hit the changeover switch at the local N club while we were all running DCC. Dropped the track to DC. (We now leave the key OUT of the switch unless we're making the change.) Most locos stopped cold. A couple took off. That's not particularly good! We did eventually find the issue, switch back to DCC, and continue with the run session. (Oh, and Jimmy: if you're heading out to the NMRA convention next summer, mention that and I'll let you know which club.) My home layout goes from DCC to DC by changing whether the SPROG or DC controller is plugged into the Unitrak. (Kato Unitrak, using the stock plugs.) All I have to do is unplug, plug. Might set up a switch later, but for now it just works. (Note to self: take pictures, submit for next December's layout tour video.)
thanks for all the info. Thanks for answering my questions. Sometimes I think they might be dumb questions that "everyone" knows the answers. But I'm fairly new to model RR'ing and have lots of questions.
For the ribbon rail I read on a discussion site some time back that there is a supplier in Britain that has a product. It is a type of rubber that can be cut to length and painted to resemble the ribbon rail. From the discussion it seems it takes a couple of hours to string the rails through the supports on all the cars. Hope this helps
Hi Jimmy, can you maybe cover a discussion about boosters in your layout? When you need them and how you incorporate/wire them into your layout. I will be running 100’ track with 3 engines simultaneously and a digitrax Zepher DCS52 controller. Thanks for your efforts and valuable information Jimmy!
I love Q&A! Drinking Maxwell House Columbian coffee! Onward to December 2023! One time, my police asked me to move while railfanning because they were looking for a suspect! I thanked him and moved to another place.
Hello Jimmy. On the topic of running DC locomotives using a DCC system, I note that DCC-EX version 5 with TrackManager allows one to designate a district as DC and run a DC locomotive as if it has a DCC decoder. I haven’t tried it yet, so I don‘t know how well it works.
On the ribbon rail one could look at the various "O" ring materials in different sizes from bearing houses or McMaster Carr. there is a lot of specialty gasket material available. or one could even make a hard mold and make with pourable silicone. sort of like making soft fishing baits. Second thought make a hard mold using a single rail from a flex track and make it the length you need. Make sure you use a lot of mold release on the track.
The best system I've found works on 3 rail HO, and is by Marklin. I run a BR 74, 86, & 52 on the same layout with this system, and they run great...though I had to add a few "details" because I'm modeling post-war Western Europe. I got my DCC system with the Starten mit Marklin Digital set (that's literally the name), which came with a large (for starter sets with small trains) oval of Marklin C-track, the BR74, a boxvan, open top wagon, and stake car. That's excluding my new N scale train, which will be strictly DC, and WILL have a single SD70m (Southern Pacific), a rapid discharge hopper, a gondola with railroad tie load, air-slide hopper, 3 boxcars, 2 covered hoppers, 1 tank car, and a caboose (if I can find an Southern Pacific one), and will be used mainly just as a quick set-up & take-down loop.
On the figures moving in the dining car for Polar Express. Lionel is large enough -- the thought of mounting some video screens, think cell phone size, in landscape orientation, then play the desired video. In a dining car, i'd start with the screens back to back in the center, static head/shoulder and tables between screens and windows. Put the controlling hardware in the space above the windows.
MERG self build dcc controller nase Station boosters if needed (10a) and District our out system. Yes you have to be a member but they do other kits as well but very cheep for what you get plus very easy to use and all function can be made momentary or change over .
I started with the NCE Power Cab and love it. I have the SB5 and a Cab06 as well. If the current offerings from Digitrax were out I'd have considered them more, but I didn't like the previous throttles. TCS now has a starter set that is somewhat similar to a Power Cab, I think it's called the LT50... Something I am looking to add to my NCE system is a panel from Wifitrax, but while I was looking up Wifitrax i found that they have a wifi setup that is also a 5A command station/booster , and it's cheap... I may end up giving that a try at some point, for a small diorama or switching layout that could be put on a few shelf brackets... it i had experience with that setup I'd feel more confident in recommending that to people in certain situations. I'm drinking Yuban with vanilla caramel creamer this morning, the only thing that typically changes is what creamer I am using that day....lol Cheers....
Re: cheap and simple DCC, DCC-EX is unbeatable value and I found it easy to install and set up even though I have no coding or electronics background. Personally, I find the Engine Driver and DCC-EX Toolbox apps much easier for operations and programming than any of the traditional throttles which remind me of VCR remote controls from the 80s. DCC is inevitably more complex than DC but with complexity come benefits. If you want really cheap and simple DCC there's the Fleischmann Lok Boss which I picked up used for £25. Dial-style throttle which controls up to four locos on addresses 1-4 and up to ten functions. You can have a lot of fun with that running light and sound-equipped locos on a small layout, but of course no programming and no accessory control.
I bought Walthers ethanol series of buildings for HO scale years ago. They were limited runs. You can check for information on the Web or books for pictures of the buildings needed. Research time.
The MRC tech 6 is pretty cool, I first experienced it at the Amherst show in Jan 23. Looking forward to going back this year to see what's coming soon from them (new products!)
@@lonluna721 I believe it is limited to a single loco but I'd have to check the user guide for it. One thing I do remember is the base unit will only use DCC address #3 when in DCC mode, to use other addresses requires the handheld controller.
For the Ribbon rail.... I have seen one in N-Scale, and it was at the 2022 or 2023 N-Scale Altoona Show (search here on RUclips, lots of videos for it) -- it was on the freemo layout I believe (if that helps) ... Sorry, I never did ask that guy what he used (My layout it way too small for such a thing, so it never dawned on me to ask LOL)
NCE systems cannot run a DC locomotive, only Digitrax systems have that option (address 0). Running a DC loco on a DCC system works just fine, just do not leave the locomotive on the track like you can with DCC locomotives. Reason for this is the slight voltage that runs through the track will try and turn the DC locomotives motor (you will hear a buzz from the motor from the DCC signal running through it while its idle). This can cause the motor to heat up since its not quite able to turn, but is still trying. This is fine when the loco is running but when its idle its not. So yes you can run DC on DCC, just don't leave the locomotive idle in the yard/track/engine house and take the locomotive off the track when your done with it. Again this only works with Digitrax DCC command stations (all versions).
Jimmy, you said to post questions. What is your opinion of the Dr Duino kit that is advertised by Innovative Electronic Solutions LLC? I have not gotten into that part of the hobby yet and not sure if I want to.
DCC is ok but there needs to be a system that is one touch for CV's and auto speed matching. Seen RailPro by Ring Engineering and it's a fantastic radio control system but expensive. I hear they are working on N scale too.
Considering installing a round table. Must it be electrically isolated maybe using an auto reverser? Should I have axseparate on off switch or a rotary switch?
Drinking some Maxwell House Dark Silk this morning while enjoying the video. Question, i have a DC “layout” and am thinking of converting to DCC. I have one BLI with Paragon 3 and looking at others with different decoders in them but am wondering will all of the decoders out there work with any dcc controller or do i need to be careful with controllers and decoders? Thanks!
All of the major DCC systems and decoders are built against a set of standards set by the NMRA, which means that all major decoders work 100% with all major DCC systems interchangeably. The only caveats/exceptions I can think of might some proprietary DCC-like starter sets, which have sound and other features similar to proper DCC, but aren't set to the NMRA standard. However, your Paragon 3 loco with run with any of the proper DCC systems just fine. You can mix and match different loco decoders as well on the same system without issues.
Hey Jimmy! In terms of HO DCC systems what are the differences from N scale, including voltage, boosters and so fourth? I'm building a HO layout soon and would like to know in depth on how to do the DCC system. The layout will be larger so would the specs of the system be different from MRR two? Thanks.
I have a question. I will be building my model railroad switching layout in my garage. I live in New Jersey. I was thinking of using KATO Uni-Track. Would this limit the expansion and contraction of the track? Would it be better than Atlas Flex Track? Thanks.. Mike
You mention digitrax, bachman and kato, NEC.. Why havent you talked about ESU? I use ESU and find it fantastic and simple to use. Do you have something against ESU?
Just because I talk exclusively about pancakes doesn’t mean I have anything against cupcakes… also what part of the “cheap starter dcc system” did you not understand? Cheapest systems from ESU start around 400 quid, their decoders are top of the line though!
On the ScaleTrain they installed a proprietary crap that stop you for using anything but ESU decoder even if you get the locomotive without the installed ESU decoder. They force you to change the board that you already bough when you got the loco. They lost my business on locos for that reason, beside Athern Genesis, and others are as good anyway, and some time cheaper.
OK, When you buy any locomotives with a non installed decoder, the board has a 8, 9, 18 or now days a 21 pin socket. ScaleTrain has a proprietary chip that stop you from using anything but an ESU decoder. So one way or the other they force you to either buy an ESU decoder from the get go or an after market unit. Option two, then you need to replace the board with an other from you choice requiring some surgery. The problem that I have with ScaleTrain is when I buy their loco I am paying for their board in the first place, that I can't use, and now I have to pay again for an other board. I like Soundtraxx best. Like I said, They lost my money for their locomotives, I still buy some time their rail cars if I judge that the extra cost is worth it. I am not a 100% rivet counter guy. Just piss-off guy.
I´m a Swede and you know that we love our coffey really strong and espresso does not meke it so for my go to coffey as allways as I live in the south of Sweden Zoegas Skånerost :)
Hi Jimmy - new subscriber. I recently purchased an HO scale 70 Ton GE diesel engine that I want to convert to the colors and decals of the Washington & Old Dominion RR. Does anyone do this or is there a place where I can purchase decals for a long lost RR company?
Railfanning / photography / filming, from a rail driver's perspective: Take photos, take film, fantastic. But STAY OFF THE TRACKS AND RAIL RESERVE. It is not safe. I've had railfans jump on the track to take pics while I'm stuck at a red. They have no idea when I'm going to move, and I also can't sit there all day when it goes green. I've had people on the ballast with a tripod, thinking they're ok because they're wearing hivis. Don't do this. If you trip, twist your ankle, you are on the ballast in front of a rail vehicle. Take pics, but stay safe ❤
What is the advantages of dcc compared to dc all my trains are dc most of my ho is tyco and Mantua some atlas Bachmann and walthers my o gauge is limited to two starter sets combined
DCC allows more precise running of locos. You can combine two or more locos and pull longer trains. Headlights remain constant like on a real loco instead of going brighter or dimmer on DC depending on how much power you give it which isn't realistic. Less wiring. You can have it so you can keep other engines on your layout parked instead of worrying about them leaving the siding or spending more money on isolating/wiring like you would in DC. If you like sound, DCC is better since you can control what sounds are being used. You can run more than one loco at a time on the same layout as different trains depending on how big your layout is. As for O Scale, DCC in O is very niche and very expensive. Unless you are a hardcore modeler, kit basher, and have lots of money I would avoid it since it is not for beginners and it does not use O's traditional 3-rail track, it uses 2-rail like HO. For traditional 3-rail track you are stuck with either MTH's DCS system or Lionel's multitude of systems starting with TMCC and now on Odyssey. TMCC is the older system and Odyssey is the current one. You cannot run MTH and Lionel systems on the same layout unless A) two separate tracks isolated from each other or B) buy MTH's TIU system that combines MTH and Lionel systems in one but is a very expensive setup C) run Lionel trains conventionally on MTH's system but you cannot do the same vice versa.
Today I'm drinking Papa Nicholas Black Velvet, with some Bailey's and french vanilla in it.... cheers... It's not an affordable system, but I just noticed some new things from NCE. It looks like they have a new command station now, with USB built in... they have also come out with a DCC meter and something called a Power Cab Partner that has a dedicated program track output, USB built in, etc... nice to see them coming out with some new products, even if they're not my cup of coffee... I still think for most people, the best NCE route is a Power Cab, then SB5 when they need more power(for small-med layouts that won't need a super large number of operators), and a Cab06 is nice if you want a simple cab with a knob. Beyond that, Wifitrax is something I think that adds on really nice to an NCE powered layout. Speaking of Wifitrax, they apparently have a wifi system that is a self contained 5A system, and it's really cheap! I'd love to see more Chan cover some wifitrax stuff. Another one I'd like to see some channels cover, the new TCS stuff. A few channels covered the expensive wifi throttles and command station , but I haven't seen many videos about their LT50, which is quite similar to a Power Cab ... Cheers
"Affordable" often means that inner quality and safety are reduce to minimal. When you purshase a digital system the real question is not the price of it but it safety for your layout and your locomotives, functionality and reliability. Most of DCC system are stuck in 80's with deprecated command, low quality electronics and awful ergonomy...
Hey Jimmy, I just want to throw out the idea that it might be cool to run one or two of your trains in the background when you're recording in front of your layout in these videos. Just food for thought assuming it doesn't cause to much noise while recording. Keep up the good work. And God bless
That would be so cool!
Absolutely!
I would pay attention more if there was a train running in the background
Do it! Dooo iiiittt!
It’s a good idea but might be too loud for his audio.
Where is the Christmas layout content I desperately need!! Lol keep em coming. Happy holidays.
8 minutes? Wow I’m new to model railroading and I’ve already started getting these notifications. Hey, I don’t mind it!
On the question of ribbon rail modeling. I've suggested using weed whacker cord. There is a variety that is sold at Lowes that has a kind of I-beam configuration. Although I have never run a ribbon rail train myself, I believe this would make a good, low resistance anolog
My favorite DCC system is NCE. However, I purchased a TCS CS-105 this past summer. I have not operated yet. It was pricey with extras such as LCC compatable with many other DCC systems and JMRI.
Thanks for the DCC controller ideas. I will look into the MRC. Excited to get the track plan done and lay some track. Pictures will come!!
On the topic of DCC on a DC layout: A few months ago, someone hit the changeover switch at the local N club while we were all running DCC. Dropped the track to DC. (We now leave the key OUT of the switch unless we're making the change.) Most locos stopped cold. A couple took off. That's not particularly good! We did eventually find the issue, switch back to DCC, and continue with the run session. (Oh, and Jimmy: if you're heading out to the NMRA convention next summer, mention that and I'll let you know which club.)
My home layout goes from DCC to DC by changing whether the SPROG or DC controller is plugged into the Unitrak. (Kato Unitrak, using the stock plugs.) All I have to do is unplug, plug. Might set up a switch later, but for now it just works. (Note to self: take pictures, submit for next December's layout tour video.)
thanks for all the info. Thanks for answering my questions. Sometimes I think they might be dumb questions that "everyone" knows the answers. But I'm fairly new to model RR'ing and have lots of questions.
For the ribbon rail I read on a discussion site some time back that there is a supplier in Britain that has a product. It is a type of rubber that can be cut to length and painted to resemble the ribbon rail. From the discussion it seems it takes a couple of hours to string the rails through the supports on all the cars. Hope this helps
Hi Jimmy, can you maybe cover a discussion about boosters in your layout? When you need them and how you incorporate/wire them into your layout.
I will be running 100’ track with 3 engines simultaneously and a digitrax Zepher DCS52 controller. Thanks for your efforts and valuable information Jimmy!
I love Q&A! Drinking Maxwell House Columbian coffee! Onward to December 2023! One time, my police asked me to move while railfanning because they were looking for a suspect! I thanked him and moved to another place.
Hello Jimmy. On the topic of running DC locomotives using a DCC system, I note that DCC-EX version 5 with TrackManager allows one to designate a district as DC and run a DC locomotive as if it has a DCC decoder. I haven’t tried it yet, so I don‘t know how well it works.
On the ribbon rail one could look at the various "O" ring materials in different sizes from bearing houses or McMaster Carr. there is a lot of specialty gasket material available. or one could even make a hard mold and make with pourable silicone. sort of like making soft fishing baits. Second thought make a hard mold using a single rail from a flex track and make it the length you need. Make sure you use a lot of mold release on the track.
My question was answered! Plus it got a short! Thanks Jimmy :)
The best system I've found works on 3 rail HO, and is by Marklin. I run a BR 74, 86, & 52 on the same layout with this system, and they run great...though I had to add a few "details" because I'm modeling post-war Western Europe. I got my DCC system with the Starten mit Marklin Digital set (that's literally the name), which came with a large (for starter sets with small trains) oval of Marklin C-track, the BR74, a boxvan, open top wagon, and stake car. That's excluding my new N scale train, which will be strictly DC, and WILL have a single SD70m (Southern Pacific), a rapid discharge hopper, a gondola with railroad tie load, air-slide hopper, 3 boxcars, 2 covered hoppers, 1 tank car, and a caboose (if I can find an Southern Pacific one), and will be used mainly just as a quick set-up & take-down loop.
On the figures moving in the dining car for Polar Express. Lionel is large enough -- the thought of mounting some video screens, think cell phone size, in landscape orientation, then play the desired video. In a dining car, i'd start with the screens back to back in the center, static head/shoulder and tables between screens and windows. Put the controlling hardware in the space above the windows.
mrc tec 6 hand held, I could only find on ebay, they are back ordered. but the tec 6 main unit, works wonderfully well.
MERG self build dcc controller nase Station boosters if needed (10a) and District our out system. Yes you have to be a member but they do other kits as well but very cheep for what you get plus very easy to use and all function can be made momentary or change over .
I started with the NCE Power Cab and love it. I have the SB5 and a Cab06 as well. If the current offerings from Digitrax were out I'd have considered them more, but I didn't like the previous throttles. TCS now has a starter set that is somewhat similar to a Power Cab, I think it's called the LT50...
Something I am looking to add to my NCE system is a panel from Wifitrax, but while I was looking up Wifitrax i found that they have a wifi setup that is also a 5A command station/booster , and it's cheap... I may end up giving that a try at some point, for a small diorama or switching layout that could be put on a few shelf brackets... it i had experience with that setup I'd feel more confident in recommending that to people in certain situations.
I'm drinking Yuban with vanilla caramel creamer this morning, the only thing that typically changes is what creamer I am using that day....lol
Cheers....
Re: cheap and simple DCC, DCC-EX is unbeatable value and I found it easy to install and set up even though I have no coding or electronics background.
Personally, I find the Engine Driver and DCC-EX Toolbox apps much easier for operations and programming than any of the traditional throttles which remind me of VCR remote controls from the 80s.
DCC is inevitably more complex than DC but with complexity come benefits.
If you want really cheap and simple DCC there's the Fleischmann Lok Boss which I picked up used for £25.
Dial-style throttle which controls up to four locos on addresses 1-4 and up to ten functions.
You can have a lot of fun with that running light and sound-equipped locos on a small layout, but of course no programming and no accessory control.
I bought Walthers ethanol series of buildings for HO scale years ago. They were limited runs. You can check for information on the Web or books for pictures of the buildings needed. Research time.
The MRC tech 6 is pretty cool, I first experienced it at the Amherst show in Jan 23.
Looking forward to going back this year to see what's coming soon from them (new products!)
Sounds good, I had never heard of that system before. I am only going to run 2 maybe 3 locos. Any issues there?
@@lonluna721 I believe it is limited to a single loco but I'd have to check the user guide for it.
One thing I do remember is the base unit will only use DCC address #3 when in DCC mode, to use other addresses requires the handheld controller.
@@atanisoftware ok, good to know. Thanks
Always interesting Jimmy.
I went with the Digitrax Zephyr DC52. It was an affordable price with the best amp output. No one else has a 3 amp starter set.
The MRC Prodigy Express is a great starter system if you can find it cheap or used.
I use prodigy xpress and am very satisfied with it. I run 3 trains at a time on a 11 ft by 5 ft layout with no problems
model railroader, had in ho scale, an ethanol facility on their MR&T layout.
For the Ribbon rail.... I have seen one in N-Scale, and it was at the 2022 or 2023 N-Scale Altoona Show (search here on RUclips, lots of videos for it) -- it was on the freemo layout I believe (if that helps) ... Sorry, I never did ask that guy what he used (My layout it way too small for such a thing, so it never dawned on me to ask LOL)
NCE systems cannot run a DC locomotive, only Digitrax systems have that option (address 0). Running a DC loco on a DCC system works just fine, just do not leave the locomotive on the track like you can with DCC locomotives. Reason for this is the slight voltage that runs through the track will try and turn the DC locomotives motor (you will hear a buzz from the motor from the DCC signal running through it while its idle). This can cause the motor to heat up since its not quite able to turn, but is still trying. This is fine when the loco is running but when its idle its not.
So yes you can run DC on DCC, just don't leave the locomotive idle in the yard/track/engine house and take the locomotive off the track when your done with it. Again this only works with Digitrax DCC command stations (all versions).
Jimmy. Have you heard any updates on on the ex motor shield you had spoke about in your video a month ago
Jimmy, you said to post questions. What is your opinion of the Dr Duino kit that is advertised by Innovative Electronic Solutions LLC? I have not gotten into that part of the hobby yet and not sure if I want to.
Another great show. Thanks for sharing.
DCC is ok but there needs to be a system that is one touch for CV's and auto speed matching. Seen RailPro by Ring Engineering and it's a fantastic radio control system but expensive. I hear they are working on N scale too.
Considering installing a round table. Must it be electrically isolated maybe using an auto reverser? Should I have axseparate on off switch or a rotary switch?
Any tips on sound for DC layouts? I have a DC layout and am not interested in DCC currently, but I want to have some sound other than the wheels.
Drinking some Maxwell House Dark Silk this morning while enjoying the video. Question, i have a DC “layout” and am thinking of converting to DCC. I have one BLI with Paragon 3 and looking at others with different decoders in them but am wondering will all of the decoders out there work with any dcc controller or do i need to be careful with controllers and decoders? Thanks!
All of the major DCC systems and decoders are built against a set of standards set by the NMRA, which means that all major decoders work 100% with all major DCC systems interchangeably. The only caveats/exceptions I can think of might some proprietary DCC-like starter sets, which have sound and other features similar to proper DCC, but aren't set to the NMRA standard. However, your Paragon 3 loco with run with any of the proper DCC systems just fine. You can mix and match different loco decoders as well on the same system without issues.
@@cymrych79 fantastic thank you! Looks like ill be saving up for the Power Cab setup!
Hey Jimmy! In terms of HO DCC systems what are the differences from N scale, including voltage, boosters and so fourth? I'm building a HO layout soon and would like to know in depth on how to do the DCC system. The layout will be larger so would the specs of the system be different from MRR two? Thanks.
Hey Jimmy, This has been bugging me for a while now. What is the blue box on the facia of your layout behind you to your left?
I knew I recognized that map! That’s home!
I have a question. I will be building my model railroad switching layout in my garage. I live in New Jersey. I was thinking of using KATO Uni-Track. Would this limit the expansion and contraction of the track? Would it be better than Atlas Flex Track? Thanks.. Mike
How are you mounting the ardwinos on your setup? Especially the switches
Dunkin’ cafe Americano. I’m thinking the old Lionel horse and cattle car loading technique might work for Polar Express figures: vibrating children.
So could I simply replace my old Lionel LW transformer with a Tech6 and have it run old DC trains?
You mention digitrax, bachman and kato, NEC.. Why havent you talked about ESU?
I use ESU and find it fantastic and simple to use. Do you have something against ESU?
Just because I talk exclusively about pancakes doesn’t mean I have anything against cupcakes… also what part of the “cheap starter dcc system” did you not understand? Cheapest systems from ESU start around 400 quid, their decoders are top of the line though!
Starbucks Bold! Love it!
Ribbon rail suggestion - some heavy shoes laces - die them "steel"
On the ScaleTrain they installed a proprietary crap that stop you for using anything but ESU decoder even if you get the locomotive without the installed ESU decoder. They force you to change the board that you already bough when you got the loco. They lost my business on locos for that reason, beside Athern Genesis, and others are as good anyway, and some time cheaper.
OK, When you buy any locomotives with a non installed decoder, the board has a 8, 9, 18 or now days a 21 pin socket. ScaleTrain has a proprietary chip that stop you from using anything but an ESU decoder. So one way or the other they force you to either buy an ESU decoder from the get go or an after market unit. Option two, then you need to replace the board with an other from you choice requiring some surgery. The problem that I have with ScaleTrain is when I buy their loco I am paying for their board in the first place, that I can't use, and now I have to pay again for an other board. I like Soundtraxx best. Like I said, They lost my money for their locomotives, I still buy some time their rail cars if I judge that the extra cost is worth it. I am not a 100% rivet counter guy. Just piss-off guy.
I´m a Swede and you know that we love our coffey really strong and espresso does not meke it so for my go to coffey as allways as I live in the south of Sweden Zoegas Skånerost :)
Hi Jimmy - new subscriber. I recently purchased an HO scale 70 Ton GE diesel engine that I want to convert to the colors and decals of the Washington & Old Dominion RR. Does anyone do this or is there a place where I can purchase decals for a long lost RR company?
Railfanning / photography / filming, from a rail driver's perspective:
Take photos, take film, fantastic. But STAY OFF THE TRACKS AND RAIL RESERVE. It is not safe.
I've had railfans jump on the track to take pics while I'm stuck at a red. They have no idea when I'm going to move, and I also can't sit there all day when it goes green.
I've had people on the ballast with a tripod, thinking they're ok because they're wearing hivis. Don't do this. If you trip, twist your ankle, you are on the ballast in front of a rail vehicle.
Take pics, but stay safe ❤
hi i am working on a ho scale layout what track brand do you recommend?
Interesting and informative video👍🏻
What is the advantages of dcc compared to dc all my trains are dc most of my ho is tyco and Mantua some atlas Bachmann and walthers my o gauge is limited to two starter sets combined
DCC allows more precise running of locos. You can combine two or more locos and pull longer trains. Headlights remain constant like on a real loco instead of going brighter or dimmer on DC depending on how much power you give it which isn't realistic. Less wiring. You can have it so you can keep other engines on your layout parked instead of worrying about them leaving the siding or spending more money on isolating/wiring like you would in DC. If you like sound, DCC is better since you can control what sounds are being used. You can run more than one loco at a time on the same layout as different trains depending on how big your layout is.
As for O Scale, DCC in O is very niche and very expensive. Unless you are a hardcore modeler, kit basher, and have lots of money I would avoid it since it is not for beginners and it does not use O's traditional 3-rail track, it uses 2-rail like HO. For traditional 3-rail track you are stuck with either MTH's DCS system or Lionel's multitude of systems starting with TMCC and now on Odyssey. TMCC is the older system and Odyssey is the current one. You cannot run MTH and Lionel systems on the same layout unless A) two separate tracks isolated from each other or B) buy MTH's TIU system that combines MTH and Lionel systems in one but is a very expensive setup C) run Lionel trains conventionally on MTH's system but you cannot do the same vice versa.
Is there a good video or someone that knows how to get dcc on katos n scale uni track? Tried looking for some tutorials on it and haven't found many.
Today I'm drinking Papa Nicholas Black Velvet, with some Bailey's and french vanilla in it.... cheers...
It's not an affordable system, but I just noticed some new things from NCE. It looks like they have a new command station now, with USB built in... they have also come out with a DCC meter and something called a Power Cab Partner that has a dedicated program track output, USB built in, etc... nice to see them coming out with some new products, even if they're not my cup of coffee...
I still think for most people, the best NCE route is a Power Cab, then SB5 when they need more power(for small-med layouts that won't need a super large number of operators), and a Cab06 is nice if you want a simple cab with a knob. Beyond that, Wifitrax is something I think that adds on really nice to an NCE powered layout.
Speaking of Wifitrax, they apparently have a wifi system that is a self contained 5A system, and it's really cheap! I'd love to see more Chan cover some wifitrax stuff.
Another one I'd like to see some channels cover, the new TCS stuff. A few channels covered the expensive wifi throttles and command station , but I haven't seen many videos about their LT50, which is quite similar to a Power Cab ...
Cheers
The NCE Power cab can not run a DC locomotive.
3D print rails might be flexible enough
Just about ready for bed, so just water right now.
Best computer option is to just run your track off a x box one
"Affordable" often means that inner quality and safety are reduce to minimal. When you purshase a digital system the real question is not the price of it but it safety for your layout and your locomotives, functionality and reliability.
Most of DCC system are stuck in 80's with deprecated command, low quality electronics and awful ergonomy...
I heard you say it again, if your going to part with your current layout, please let me know, I don't live far from you...
Hello
I’m drinking hot cocoa
Water
👍☕️🫡
Wierd one but snake discovery coffee from a chanel on yt