I'm about to do this on my 1986 C10, this looks super easy, but as working on old cars usually goes for me I'm sure I'll find a way to turn it into a multiple day job lol
quite the mechanic I am....I wrestled with the column forever trying to loosen it so I could get the steering box out....when all I needed to do was remove the bumper bracket and it would slide right out! This was when I rebuilt my stock box. Buying one of these quick ratio boxes, so at least now it will be easier this time. Great video for that bit of knowledge alone.
I really wish the video included you using a torque wrench to finish the pitman arm nut. We both know that's a big deal to tighten that properly. Otherwise great video, I just did this job on my 60 C10 🍻👍🏻
The torque is not as important as the tapered cut splines with a spring steel lock washer. Use a light application of anti-seize so it will come off 50 years from now and reduce the factory torque by 30%. Use a standard length breaker bar and call it a day! I have never had one come loose on a school bus, 2 ton farm truck, passenger car or pickup. Math = Load X Stretch. Look it up and quit stretching the bolt to the yield point we’re it breaks! No one owns “Crows” feet sets or “Flare Nut Crows” feet spanners and a torque wrench because they never use them in the videos! Why? I own 4 sets of SnapOn both Imperial and Metric. Do you? The load in these is tightening the hard to reach fasteners or seating the pipe end like a gasket! These are way more important than pitman arm torque if you have removed one. DK. ASE Master Tech since 1978.
Awesome, thanks for the quick video, I'm off to change mine out in my 1980 chevy k5 in the morning, wish me luck!!...lol small job but never know with these rigs..lol
@@CJClassicTrucks All done, also added another shim to starter since I was already getting dirty.....lol my pitman arm pissed me off a bit, but I won!.....
Just a note.. My 85 High Sierra had a 12mm 12 point pinch bolt holding the steering coupler. I damn near rounded it off using a regular socket. Was too caked with years of crap to see.
How much attention should I pay to the position of the pitman (splines) so I don't change the steering - or is this not an issue? Also, same with the rag joint. It's splined too. Just don't want to get in the truck and see my steering wheel is 1 o'clock or something.
Both the pitman and rag are keyed they are supposed to fit in only one spot. For the rag joint you are looking to line the set screw on the flat part of the splines
Larry, With the flexible coupler installation even with the pitman arms splines lined up, it still can be off by one tooth either direction. The steering wheel mount can be moved very easy and should be expected, as nothing is perfect but one tooth is easily corrected. Besides, an alignment is highly recommended after installing a new steering part especially if moving from a manual to power steering gear box. 68 and up have a indention in the frame for gear box housing clearance where the 67 did not. 66 and down have a different frame in front of the steering and have no indention which was common for tooling at the Fremont, CA plant were 70% were built. Best of luck but no big deal. Try using a bungee cord from the steering wheel to the brake pedal. This too can help.
Does anyone know what size and style fittings the steering box has for those 2 lines? I want to convert mine to AN lines but don’t know the size or style fittings for the inlet and outlet
What about the 1967 C10? Will your tiny piston diameter work on the frame using grade 8 pipe spacers and really long grade 8 bolts? At least place the gearbox in place, install shims or washers to get the correct alignment with the intermediate shaft on the vertical axis as the frame holes actually line up the 800 series Saginaw gear box on the horizontal axis. I would not use the 500 series because it is smaller piston diameter, thinner case and less frame to bolt thread engagement. It is 11 pounds less of a long lasting 800 series, which has way more parts, torsion bar selections and heavier case for a pickup use and lateral impact forces it see’s when transmitted to the pitman arms case. The case will oblong and create looseness that has to be machined and new bearing installed 40-50 more often than the larger diameter contact found in the 800 series. I don’t understand unless it is an patent or intellectual properties legal issue. DK. ASE Master Tech since 78. Former instructor for UTI and ACDelco.
How different is the steering feel? Borgeson says this box is faster, but has a firmer feel than stock. Is this true? I think the stock is much too over-boosted and too light.
Will this work on a 4 wd, 72 k5 blazer if I change the pitman arm to the nut and washer style (like it is on 2wd)? I believe that is the only difference
You lost me at pounding/prying on the old rag joint to remove it. Surely loosened something up top, partially evidenced by all the clearance you have for the new box and rag.
The 67 frame is flat and the box will crush on the frame without angled pipe like spaces inside and out. Plus the bolts are much longer and will hit the steering gear box. I took photos of mine when off, then measured the spacers to cut at an angle to be straight with the intermediate shaft were the rag joint connects. The 66 and 68 are different with raised bolt holes and an indentation in the frame to clear the cross shaft / housing of the gear box. It is completely different.
@LJ Padilla. - 1967 frame is flat where the steering box mounts. It comes with manual only and held away from the frame with pipe like spacers. The spacers would have to cut at an angle about 3/8” off the rear cab side and 5/16” off front spacers at front near bumper. This places the box at an angle with the frame but straight to the input shaft. Use the cut part inside the frame to keep the bolts fully flat to the frame. In the video, when the box is off, look at the bolt holes that are raised while the frame is dished inward. Careful measurements and cutting will keep the box from touching the frame except at the bolt mount pads. Basically, the 1967 is different from either a 66 or 68. This is why there are no listings for a 1967 C10. The bolts are much longer because of the spacers but can be done.
I thought it was pretty expensive, too, but I'm hoping it's worth it to get rid of the vague steering feel of the old style boxes. They weren't built to have a performance feel
Kept rocking out to that sweet music that came back over and over.
I'm about to do this on my 1986 C10, this looks super easy, but as working on old cars usually goes for me I'm sure I'll find a way to turn it into a multiple day job lol
quite the mechanic I am....I wrestled with the column forever trying to loosen it so I could get the steering box out....when all I needed to do was remove the bumper bracket and it would slide right out! This was when I rebuilt my stock box. Buying one of these quick ratio boxes, so at least now it will be easier this time. Great video for that bit of knowledge alone.
Thank you for watching
I really wish the video included you using a torque wrench to finish the pitman arm nut. We both know that's a big deal to tighten that properly. Otherwise great video, I just did this job on my 60 C10 🍻👍🏻
Yeah I had to wait for the socket to come in to torque it down
Thank you for watching
@@86hyperstang what is the torque for the pitman arm nut?
So....what is the torque for the pitman arm nut? I'm about to do this on my C10
The torque is not as important as the tapered cut splines with a spring steel lock washer. Use a light application of anti-seize so it will come off 50 years from now and reduce the factory torque by 30%. Use a standard length breaker bar and call it a day! I have never had one come loose on a school bus, 2 ton farm truck, passenger car or pickup. Math = Load X Stretch.
Look it up and quit stretching the bolt to the yield point we’re it breaks!
No one owns “Crows” feet sets or “Flare Nut Crows” feet spanners and a torque wrench because they never use them in the videos! Why? I own 4 sets of SnapOn both Imperial and Metric. Do you? The load in these is tightening the hard to reach fasteners or seating the pipe end like a gasket! These are way more important than pitman arm torque if you have removed one.
DK. ASE Master Tech since 1978.
How precise does the position of the pitman need to be to achieve a straight steering wheel? I assume the new box output shaft is centered, yes?
Awesome, thanks for the quick video, I'm off to change mine out in my 1980 chevy k5 in the morning, wish me luck!!...lol small job but never know with these rigs..lol
You can do it!
@@CJClassicTrucks All done, also added another shim to starter since
I was already getting dirty.....lol my pitman arm pissed me off a bit, but I won!.....
Just a note.. My 85 High Sierra had a 12mm 12 point pinch bolt holding the steering coupler. I damn near rounded it off using a regular socket. Was too caked with years of crap to see.
oooo that would have been bad
Good video
You mentioned it will fit 68-86, what about 1967?
What else can I do to improve my steering setup in terms of spares quality and functionality? Best
How much attention should I pay to the position of the pitman (splines) so I don't change the steering - or is this not an issue? Also, same with the rag joint. It's splined too. Just don't want to get in the truck and see my steering wheel is 1 o'clock or something.
Both the pitman and rag are keyed they are supposed to fit in only one spot. For the rag joint you are looking to line the set screw on the flat part of the splines
Larry, With the flexible coupler installation even with the pitman arms splines lined up, it still can be off by one tooth either direction. The steering wheel mount can be moved very easy and should be expected, as nothing is perfect but one tooth is easily corrected. Besides, an alignment is highly recommended after installing a new steering part especially if moving from a manual to power steering gear box. 68 and up have a indention in the frame for gear box housing clearance where the 67 did not. 66 and down have a different frame in front of the steering and have no indention which was common for tooling at the Fremont, CA plant were 70% were built.
Best of luck but no big deal. Try using a bungee cord from the steering wheel to the brake pedal. This too can help.
Does set screw go on flat part of input shaft?
Does anyone know what size and style fittings the steering box has for those 2 lines? I want to convert mine to AN lines but don’t know the size or style fittings for the inlet and outlet
My steering column is too long to install on my new gear box any suggestions?
What about the 1967 C10? Will your tiny piston diameter work on the frame using grade 8 pipe spacers and really long grade 8 bolts? At least place the gearbox in place, install shims or washers to get the correct alignment with the intermediate shaft on the vertical axis as the frame holes actually line up the 800 series Saginaw gear box on the horizontal axis.
I would not use the 500 series because it is smaller piston diameter, thinner case and less frame to bolt thread engagement. It is 11 pounds less of a long lasting 800 series, which has way more parts, torsion bar selections and heavier case for a pickup use and lateral impact forces it see’s when transmitted to the pitman arms case. The case will oblong and create looseness that has to be machined and new bearing installed 40-50 more often than the larger diameter contact found in the 800 series. I don’t understand unless it is an patent or intellectual properties legal issue.
DK. ASE Master Tech since 78. Former instructor for UTI and ACDelco.
Great informative video! Thanks
How different is the steering feel? Borgeson says this box is faster, but has a firmer feel than stock. Is this true? I think the stock is much too over-boosted and too light.
I have driven the truck for a few hundred miles the new box feels great
Is the same pitman arm used or would I need to purchase a separate one?
the old one will work
Which way do you seat the adapters?
Just curious as to why this wouldn’t work on a 1967? Seems like it would bolt right up.
What was the part number on the steering coupler you used?
For 100 bucks total cost i decided to install toyota or Hyundai electric power steering ( both are dirt cheap)
Would this upgrade work on a 63 c10???
What is the torque for the pitman arm bolt?
Will this work on a 4 wd, 72 k5 blazer if I change the pitman arm to the nut and washer style (like it is on 2wd)? I believe that is the only difference
Did you have to remove the steering wheel and or listen it to allow the shaft to be hammered up? Thank you. About to do this on my 68 c10.
I did not have to remove the steering wheel all you have to do is unbolt at the box the the steering shaft will collapse so you can take the box out.
@@CJClassicTrucks perfect. Thanks bud. Appreciate it.
What size are the bolts connected to frame
I need aleftside cross shaft for bus
Why will this steering box not work on an 87 year model?
Good stuff
will this box work if you are converting over from a manual steering
Will this same box work on a 72 K20 4x4?
What is the part number for the steering linkage
You lost me at pounding/prying on the old rag joint to remove it. Surely loosened something up top, partially evidenced by all the clearance you have for the new box and rag.
I can't to put a Borgeson 800 on my '71 Chevelle.....
Great video. Where can I get the compression fittings for the hoses?
you Can call borgeson for the fittings
I’m paying a shop to do this? Too bad I’m not mechanically inclined
You forgot to put the bumper bracket back on
i did that part off camera
why won't it work for the '67 c10 ?
it will work for 67
The 67 frame is flat and the box will crush on the frame without angled pipe like spaces inside and out. Plus the bolts are much longer and will hit the steering gear box. I took photos of mine when off, then measured the spacers to cut at an angle to be straight with the intermediate shaft were the rag joint connects. The 66 and 68 are different with raised bolt holes and an indentation in the frame to clear the cross shaft / housing of the gear box. It is completely different.
why wont this fit a 67?
@LJ Padilla. - 1967 frame is flat where the steering box mounts. It comes with manual only and held away from the frame with pipe like spacers. The spacers would have to cut at an angle about 3/8” off the rear cab side and 5/16” off front spacers at front near bumper. This places the box at an angle with the frame but straight to the input shaft. Use the cut part inside the frame to keep the bolts fully flat to the frame.
In the video, when the box is off, look at the bolt holes that are raised while the frame is dished inward. Careful measurements and cutting will keep the box from touching the frame except at the bolt mount pads.
Basically, the 1967 is different from either a 66 or 68. This is why there are no listings for a 1967 C10. The bolts are much longer because of the spacers but can be done.
Ogxpa
500$ for that box?? Thats too steep for my pocket
I thought it was pretty expensive, too, but I'm hoping it's worth it to get rid of the vague steering feel of the old style boxes. They weren't built to have a performance feel
The box works great i like the quicker ratio.
You can get a quick ratio from LMC Truck for $300.
Ogxpau