Thanks for video doing front end on 63 C10 especially details about marking shims little things like that help someone doing it for first time Thanks again
Great video, this is exactly how i did my ball joints and whole front suspension, even added a sway bar while i was there. I had just as fun doing it on my 72. I was rolling around like a 12 year old and in my 30s 🤣. Inspect and change anything while you have it disassembled.
Saw this video when first posted and then started gathering all new front end parts over a year or so, I'm using the original control arms and drag link, will be replacing everything in the front end as after 92,000 miles of good service its time.
Great job David. Very clearly explained and demonstrated. I did this to my '65 gmc and just like you I had to have some help with someone doing the jack work while I held the spring. Thanks for doing this for us rookies. It's hard to be a rookie at 73.
I loosened the A arm shaft endcaps before removing from truck. Easier for me than off the truck. They were original oem, so they were TIGHT. Then I'll do a final torque when they are re-installed... after I gather the correct torque info. Thanks Dave and @BROTHERS Truck Parts !
Great video the only thing I would like to note is how stressed that front brake hose was and it may blow from the extra stress it received. Time stamp roughly 26:55 I like to separate the caliper from the spindle and use a bent up welding rod to support just the caliper. I even did this taking mine apart knowing it was getting new brake hoses since I wanted to not tear the lines apart until i had a chance to actuate the brakes pushing the pistons out of the bore for rebuilding
At the same time stamp you'll notice there is a coat hanger attached to the caliper. The assembly up until that point was suspended and no stress was on the hose. It wasn't until Dave started to try and line up the ball joint that the hose got tugged on. Ideal, probably not, but it didn't get tugged enough to compromise it or we would have changed it out. Thanks for watching and for the suggestions!
Nice work as always Dave. I am getting ready to rebuild my front and rear suspension on my 69 c2500, has 96k miles and appears all original so it's time! Working to keep my classics on the road. One thing I'd suggest Dave; get a rubber kneeling pad! Man, I cringe and my knees hurt every time I see you kneel on concrete for these shoots!
I installed wheel bearings without grease back in my younger days. Made it about 5 miles. Dad laughed at me the whole time I was tearing it back down and said something about having taught me better. lol
I just want to say..spluge and wickiy wacky. Great job. You make it look easy. I have one to do and I will set a day aside to try it myself. Thanks again.
As a retired auto mechanic I feel your pain. I really dislike working on the ground like that, especially now that I'm 60 with a bad back and bad knees.
Can you give a quick lesson on how to remove and install the rivets for the lower A-arm guide? Reason i ask, there aren't any videos of installing them. The rivets I have in mine are not all round and do not fit in the A-arm guide holes. I can try grinding the rivets to round them out and hopefully that solves my issue.
To be honest, we've never run into that problem before so we can't be much help with the solution. We'll look at a set and see if we can make a video about this.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thanks for the reply. My other solution (which could be wrong) was to chisel out the rivets and put grade 8 bolts small enough to fit the guides on the lower A-arm shaft.
@@frankie4speed818 Honestly, that might be the way to go, but without tearing into one ourselves and seeing what options we think would work, we're listening to you for direction! Good luck with the project and let us know what you decide.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV well I just got under the truck to test fit the A-arm and it doesn't even make contact with any rivets. I'm just going to mount them & tighten them to spec. I'll definitely keep you informed
Hi Dave watched your very helpful video on rebuilding upper and lower control arm on my C10 , my question is I have the upper control arm shaft in place and torqued to spec but the shaft is very stiff ? Notice before I removed and replaced the shaft grease boot it was moving freely by hand . Your input would be appreciated. Thank you
Do you have a video on how to properly tighten the rotor spindle nut, the nut that's in the center of the rotor that uses a cotter pin and is hidden by the dust cap? I'm not sure if I'm using the right terminology. Thanks.
We have a video about converting to tapered bearings and Dave explains how to properly load the nut in that video. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/JxF22CTFQN0/видео.html
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Where could we find this torque info? I have heard two other sources say 100 ft/lbs and service manual says 95-130 ft/lbs. I've scoured the Google machine and these sources are just people stating this in their own how-to vids.
@@neilfoster980 Our mistake, misread the question and assumed your were referring to the u-bolts on the shafts. Yes, the correct torque for the Caps is 95-130ft lbs as the manual suggests. Thank you for bringing this back up again.
Mostly.... some of the components are interchangeable and some are not. For example, 71-72 have different ball joints. If you have a specific question you can always call our tech guys at 800-977-2767 and we'll help you out.
I really appreciate all the content I am rebuilding a 70’ C20 and want to lift it 4”. Seeming pretty hard to get a kit. Do you have any suggestions or work arounds?
C10 arms won't work, the C20 ball joint is a different size (larger) and you can't press a C20 joint into a C10 arm. You COULD convert the entire front end to C10/Half ton, but that would require doing the upper and lower arms plus spindles brakes, etc... Ebay, Craiglist and Salvage yards are your best shot at finding C20 arms.
Great video! What type of grease did you use on the shaft bushings? I just switched out the shift linkage on my 72 and discovered that one of the bushings is missing on my upper control shaft, and has zero grease around the threads. I got the new bushings coming in and want to make sure I dont make the same mistake the first installer made.
DAVE BOUGHT A 1963 CHEV STEP SIDE FROM CAL HAS ALL NEW FRONT END DOES NOT STEER AS SHARP TO THE RIGHT AS IT DOES TO LEFT HAVE ANY IDEA THANKS GREAT VIDEOS
Over the years as your alignment has been adjusted, they have more-or-less adjusted it too far to one side. Take it to an alignment shop and tell them the issue and they will re-align it in the center again.
They are on there, search "wheel" and you'll find them. You can't order them online though, so you'd need to give us a call once you decide what you're interested in.
Your videos are some of the best how to videos on RUclips!!!
I had professors in college that weren't as articulate and as informative as you are great video thank you
Thanks for the kudos, and thank you for watching!
You the man, David nice job .. a very good teacher.
Watching this guy work on the floor herts my back.
Thanks for the refresher, doing this job today or tomorrow, parts come-in.. yay!❤ 1963 Chevy C10, Hot Rod, 383 Stroker w/ 4 speed manual transmission.
Dave you are the Man !!!
Best video on front end rebuild I have ever seen.
I feel confident that I can do my 67
Thank you.
Thanks for video doing front end on 63 C10 especially details about marking shims little things like that help someone doing it for first time Thanks again
Our pleasure, thanks for watching!
Fantastic video! Thank you.
Thank you,Beautiful explanation
Our pleasure!
Man, I just did this to my 70! You did it the way I did, on the ground of my driveway. You didn't swear as much as I did, though! Love the videos!
To be really honest, we try to do our project videos the way we figure most people at home will be doing it. Thank you for watching!
Man I was sweating like a sailor 😂
Great video, this is exactly how i did my ball joints and whole front suspension, even added a sway bar while i was there. I had just as fun doing it on my 72. I was rolling around like a 12 year old and in my 30s 🤣. Inspect and change anything while you have it disassembled.
Im about to do this again on my 87, btw you need a raise brother 😅
Awesome! Good to hear that people are doing this on their own and actually enjoying the process. Good luck with the '87!
Saw this video when first posted and then started gathering all new front end parts over a year or so, I'm using the original control arms and drag link, will be replacing everything in the front end as after 92,000 miles of good service its time.
Excellent video, very well explained, good camera angles this guy is very informative and a very good teacher
Great job David. Very clearly explained and demonstrated. I did this to my '65 gmc and just like you I had to have some help with someone doing the jack work while I held the spring. Thanks for doing this for us rookies. It's hard to be a rookie at 73.
Thanks for the feedback and for watching!
Thanks!
Dave I’m glad that I’m not the only one who gets out of breath working on cars ! Lmao
Thanks David.
Our pleasure!
Great work.
Thanks for watching!
I loosened the A arm shaft endcaps before removing from truck. Easier for me than off the truck. They were original oem, so they were TIGHT. Then I'll do a final torque when they are re-installed... after I gather the correct torque info. Thanks Dave and @BROTHERS Truck Parts !
Great tip!
Thanks David appreciate all the help
Our pleasure!
Great video the only thing I would like to note is how stressed that front brake hose was and it may blow from the extra stress it received. Time stamp roughly 26:55
I like to separate the caliper from the spindle and use a bent up welding rod to support just the caliper.
I even did this taking mine apart knowing it was getting new brake hoses since I wanted to not tear the lines apart until i had a chance to actuate the brakes pushing the pistons out of the bore for rebuilding
At the same time stamp you'll notice there is a coat hanger attached to the caliper. The assembly up until that point was suspended and no stress was on the hose. It wasn't until Dave started to try and line up the ball joint that the hose got tugged on. Ideal, probably not, but it didn't get tugged enough to compromise it or we would have changed it out. Thanks for watching and for the suggestions!
You helped me out so much thank you
Our pleasure!
Nice that this is done on the floor, like most of us will do it.
That's exactly Dave's philosophy, show it the way most viewers will be doing it. Thanks for watching!
I want to see my 1968 C20 back road worthy as well!
Thanks David I find all your videos very helpful
My pleasure!
Probably one of the best hands on explained videos, thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching!
Hi from Brazil. Thanks again!!! As always very well teachead and explained. Good fortune to you!
Thank you for watching!
Great show! I can’t thank you enough!
Absolutely our pleasure!
Nice work as always Dave. I am getting ready to rebuild my front and rear suspension on my 69 c2500, has 96k miles and appears all original so it's time! Working to keep my classics on the road. One thing I'd suggest Dave; get a rubber kneeling pad! Man, I cringe and my knees hurt every time I see you kneel on concrete for these shoots!
Haha, we hear that all the time. Dave refuses to use "comfort" gear.
Life saver!
Hey Dave, it's Bruce. I'm using some of your videos in my "online" automotive suspension/steering/alignment classes this semester. Good job!
Thanks for the positive feedback!
thank you David as always helpful..God bless
My pleasure!
I installed wheel bearings without grease back in my younger days. Made it about 5 miles. Dad laughed at me the whole time I was tearing it back down and said something about having taught me better. lol
Great story!
About to do a power steering conversion and front suspension. Thanks for the hard work!
Our pleasure!
Beautiful truck 😎👍
I just want to say..spluge and wickiy wacky. Great job. You make it look easy. I have one to do and I will set a day aside to try it myself. Thanks again.
Good luck with your project!
I always take the nuts all the way off then put them back on just over finger tight so they come off easy after the joints are popped free
Tearing front suspension apart is one of my least favorite tasks. I'm so glad this is no longer on my to-do list. Great video.
Thanks for commenting and watching!
Should you be able to turn the cross shafts by hand after tightening?
Not easily. It will take some significant effort.
Wanna get my two sons the pwr frnt disc brakes for the 2024 Christmas ! One has a 55 3100 p.up !other 68 C10 ! 👍
As a retired auto mechanic I feel your pain. I really dislike working on the ground like that, especially now that I'm 60 with a bad back and bad knees.
I'm getting there quickly!
Can you give a quick lesson on how to remove and install the rivets for the lower A-arm guide? Reason i ask, there aren't any videos of installing them. The rivets I have in mine are not all round and do not fit in the A-arm guide holes. I can try grinding the rivets to round them out and hopefully that solves my issue.
To be honest, we've never run into that problem before so we can't be much help with the solution. We'll look at a set and see if we can make a video about this.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thanks for the reply. My other solution (which could be wrong) was to chisel out the rivets and put grade 8 bolts small enough to fit the guides on the lower A-arm shaft.
@@frankie4speed818 Honestly, that might be the way to go, but without tearing into one ourselves and seeing what options we think would work, we're listening to you for direction! Good luck with the project and let us know what you decide.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV well I just got under the truck to test fit the A-arm and it doesn't even make contact with any rivets. I'm just going to mount them & tighten them to spec. I'll definitely keep you informed
Hi Dave watched your very helpful video on rebuilding upper and lower control arm on my C10 , my question is I have the upper control arm
shaft in place and torqued to spec but the shaft is very stiff ? Notice before I removed and replaced the shaft grease boot it was moving freely by hand . Your input would be appreciated. Thank you
It should be very tight. The reason it wasn't tight when you pulled it apart is because it was worn.
Do you have a video on how to properly tighten the rotor spindle nut, the nut that's in the center of the rotor that uses a cotter pin and is hidden by the dust cap? I'm not sure if I'm using the right terminology. Thanks.
We have a video about converting to tapered bearings and Dave explains how to properly load the nut in that video. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/JxF22CTFQN0/видео.html
Great video. Only thing I’ll recommend is not hang that spindle by just the brake line.
We didn't, the spindle is hanging by two large Zip Ties as you can see in the video at 10:24.
I thought the end caps on the control arms bushings had to be torqued? I could be wrong. Thank you for the great videos
We do torque these to about 40lbs.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Where could we find this torque info? I have heard two other sources say 100 ft/lbs and service manual says 95-130 ft/lbs. I've scoured the Google machine and these sources are just people stating this in their own how-to vids.
@@neilfoster980 Our mistake, misread the question and assumed your were referring to the u-bolts on the shafts. Yes, the correct torque for the Caps is 95-130ft lbs as the manual suggests. Thank you for bringing this back up again.
I have a 67 c20, do they share the same components for the front suspension? like are the control arms the same, ball joints etc
Mostly.... some of the components are interchangeable and some are not. For example, 71-72 have different ball joints. If you have a specific question you can always call our tech guys at 800-977-2767 and we'll help you out.
Great video, but that poor brake hose.
I really appreciate all the content I am rebuilding a 70’ C20 and want to lift it 4”. Seeming pretty hard to get a kit. Do you have any suggestions or work arounds?
Really kind of tough because of the control arms. Check with the guys at Tough Country
Great video but I'm having trouble getting my spindle off of the lower control arm. Any suggestions?
What type of tool are you using to pop the lower ball joint?
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV I've used the same as in the video but it will not spread wide enough for my lower, even switching holes on the tool.
@@ronaldsteveson76 Try a pickle fork or a larger "commercial" ball joint popper.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV LoL bought one and will try after work. Thanks
Do the 63 to 72 use the same ball joints and tie rods thx
No sir, 71-72 use different parts than the 67-70.
I have a 1969 C20. I can not for the life of me find the C20 lower control arms. Where should I be looking, or can I use C10s and be ok?
C10 arms won't work, the C20 ball joint is a different size (larger) and you can't press a C20 joint into a C10 arm. You COULD convert the entire front end to C10/Half ton, but that would require doing the upper and lower arms plus spindles brakes, etc... Ebay, Craiglist and Salvage yards are your best shot at finding C20 arms.
Great video! What type of grease did you use on the shaft bushings? I just switched out the shift linkage on my 72 and discovered that one of the bushings is missing on my upper control shaft, and has zero grease around the threads. I got the new bushings coming in and want to make sure I dont make the same mistake the first installer made.
High pressure grease works best. We use one from Lucas Oil, but you can use whatever is available locally.
Wish could have done this to my dad 67 short bed c10 back in 2000 but I was 9 years old then before he got someone made terrible front clip job before
Bummer.
DAVE BOUGHT A 1963 CHEV STEP SIDE FROM CAL HAS ALL NEW FRONT END DOES NOT STEER AS SHARP TO THE RIGHT AS IT DOES TO LEFT HAVE ANY IDEA THANKS GREAT VIDEOS
Over the years as your alignment has been adjusted, they have more-or-less adjusted it too far to one side. Take it to an alignment shop and tell them the issue and they will re-align it in the center again.
Do you have a list for 1976 c10 everything that is needed
All the parts for the 73-87 trucks are sold separately so you have some flexibility.
I was checking in your shop to see wether you have wheels for 69/72 chevy C10 truck but i cant find any are you not selling them?
They are on there, search "wheel" and you'll find them. You can't order them online though, so you'd need to give us a call once you decide what you're interested in.
Can you do the lowers only without taking everything apart?
You'd still have to pop the lower ball joints off, but yeah, we think you could just do that job without dismantling everything else.
What ball joint press kit was used for the lower ball joints ?
We used a inexpensive Pittsburg brand kit from Harbor Freight. It was around $50-$60 bucks.
Good ol' rent-a-tool at the local parts store is my go to. I don't do enough ball joints to justify even a HF when I can basically rent it for free.
Title on the video says 63 to 87. The suspension looks similar to my '74 C10. Is there anything different? Is there another video specific to my year?
63-87 is all basically identical. There is no video specifically for the '74.
"splungin out"
When I tighten the ball joint on the upper control arm, the shaft is spinning. Any suggestions?
Can you get the nut down far enough to stick something through the cotter pin hole to hold it in place?
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV great idea...I’ll give that a try...thanks. Love your videos by the way!
@@jeff8704 Thanks for watching!
Does that truck have Drop Spindles ?
Yes, 2.25" drop.
He was pissed that there was no grease on it
Sploogin’ 😂😂 I’m immature
they need to buy you a lift so alot of that isnt you on the floor
We have a lift, but Dave insists doing the work like the majority of our viewers will be doing it, which is on the floor.
Los videos esta chispa pero no graban muy bien deberían :: gravar más cerca
Where can I get the torque specs for a 79 C10 ?
Wondered the same thing so I just ordered a Haynes manual on eBay for the 67-87 trucks.