Nice work, actually EPA608 compliant. You probably know this, but the aluminum fins are slipped over the copper tubes in a fixture, then a steel ball is hydraulically pushed through to expand the copper tube, so it is in tight fit for heat flow to the fins. That's probably where the thin wall is damaged. Small micro scratches, and the pulsations from the compressor cause them to open up. And I bet there's no quality control in the factory to even test for leaks. I now have 4 of these failed R410a dehumidifiers. I get about 2 years from them, and the warrantee is 90 days I think.
I remember reading a comment where after 2-3 years of working dehumidifier, it broke-down (when out of warranty). So what's a consumer to do who thinks you should get more than 3 years for your money? SO ...the man went to the box store, purchased the same model...a working model! Later returned the broken model, as defective and got his money back to reimburse his resent repurchase! Brilliant!
I have a Fridgidaire dehumidifier from 2008 that still works perfectly. I'm one of the few and proud. I also got a second Danby that's only from 2017 that's already lost the refrigerant. The Fridgidaire pulls a ton of water very quickly from the basement, and just simply keeps working. Time to sell the parts off the Danby!
I have two Fridgidaire dehumidifiers, both are less than 3 yr old. Both are now showing the F0 error code, due to refrigerant leaks, leading to overheating condenser and coils. They used to replace even units out of warranty, so it will be interesting to see what happens if I can contact them. I noticed the price DOUBLED over a span of 3 years, probably due to the warranty problems. Thanks for your info.
I have a Frigidaire that's freezing up after a year, which led to me to searching for repair options and finding this video. They claimed it was one day out of warranty and wouldn't replace it, but after some pushing, they are now. It'll be interesting to see how long the new one lasts.
Excellent video. Thank you! Expending on marketing rather than on quality became the go to business strategy for so many manufactures of almost everything these days. I will remember that brand and avoid it regardless of how appealing its products may be priced.
I am having similar experience with TCL dehumidifiers. They just keep sending new ones. Your video explains why. The number of hours you put into fixing it times the going hourly rate of a refrigeration mechanic will certainly exceed the price of a new unit.
Yeah....but what unit to buy? It would be good if one of the review companies like consumer reports went through this type of effort to see the manufacturing quality.
I'm glad to have found this video, as I tried exploring the coils on a recalled unit I picked out of the trash that had leaked down. An electronic leak detector couldn't find anything, and I have yet to try placing its coils in water. I'd been wondering where they go wrong, beyond the obvious answer of "it's cheap crap". It's amazing to me how bad these things are, although I have two modern units (one Danby, one Frigidaire) that are a couple of years old and still going strong. Meanwhile, there's also a Sears Coldspot ("The Blotter") Thirty here that's had a fairly hard life and it's right on tilt for seeing its fiftieth year. I'd be curious if you could get away with using that good condenser as an evaporator. I suspect it'd work, albeit less efficiently.
Appreciate the video. I'm on at least my 6th unit with average life of two to three years. I don't have the tools to recharge R410a or the patience to solder the coils so I won't be taking that on. Considered the bullet valve trick...but after reading the comments I'll stay away from that. I'm on my third GE with the built in pump (APEL70 / APEL45). Really like the unit but only get two years out of it. My strategy? Buy the Home Depot warranty that adds 2-years to the manufacturer 1-year warranty for $45. Then in May when you turn it on and it runs but does not condense you have them replace it. Cost me $250 plus the $40 warranty in 2018. $45 for the next warranty on the replacement machine in 2020. About to buy the next one with the $45 warranty and hope it lasts two to three years. Do the same thing in 2024?
I am in the same situation. I just bought a cheap Insignia from BestBuy $189 and $55 for a 4 year extention. I know I will need a replace within 2 years. The Insignia looks to be internally the same as my Toshiba which only lasted 15 months.
@@fer8888888the strangest part is why other AC units don't nearly as often.. but yeah, pinhole galore here. Thin coils and the ball bearing stretching must be part of the culprit, plus galvanic corrosion, high pressure refridgerant, and POE oil that turns to acid with any moisture.. bad combination.
I wonder if stop leak would be effective. I wouldn't use it on a car but in these I might. I also wonder if it would be possible to convert them to 134a considering how ridiculous the price of 410a is.
I made the mistake of buying a Frigidaire FFAP5033W1 from a wholesaler off of Mercari for $90 less than Amazon. It was great for about 10 months. After sitting most of the winter, I noticed blue liquid in the tank. I cleaned that out, turned it on, and it ran awhile then quit, displaying "EC" without ever producing a single drop of water. I contacted Frigidaire. They said no warranty since it wasn't purchased from an authorized retailer. I took it apart and ran it with the cover off, compressor and blowers run, but nothing gets cold except a little coil (I think it's the capillary tube). If run long enough, the compressor gets too hot to touch. There was a little blue/green dried residue in random places in the unit, I assume is corrosion, but couldn't really tell the source of it. I'm assuming it's leaked out all of its R410a. I've replaced compressors and filled refrigerant on cars, but your video shows me this is probably over my head. I guess moral of the story is don't buy one of these without a good warranty. Or in my case, don't buy one of these at all and just live with a humid basement.
The problem is design of the dehumidifier and it's use of 410a refrigerant. When 410a systems become contaminated or overheated the refrigerant can become acidic. At which point it starts eating holes in the copper and aluminum lines. So trying to fix 410a systems especially if they have multiple leaks is pointless. Which is why the manufacturer is happy to keep sending you replacements, they know the units can't be fixed.... I fished a 410a dehumidifier out of my neighbor's trash. Just like with you the manufacturer sent them another unit when theirs quit. I didn't really even bother to look for a leak. I just refilled it with propane from a 1lb disposable bottle sold for camp stoves and heaters. This grade of propane is basically identical R290 except they add an odorant in the propane. With propane being a much larger molecule and the system running at only 65psi on the low side a unit filled with propane should leak much slower than it did with 410a, Or if you are very lucky it may not leak at all. Plus the propane won't continue to eat holes in the system. My scavenged dehumidifier goes about 8 to 10 months before needs more gas. When running propane you also use only a fraction of the gas the system used with 410a. Topping it off takes so little gas a 1lb bottle would last several years.
I agree that topping off 410a with its high pressures is pointless. The unit is still running holding a charge since the making of that video. When the walls of metal are made to thin the imperfections in the grains can become problematic to holding gases to when mass produced. Almost none of the air bubbles have pin holes, but look like they are seeping through the copper's grain structure. The humidifiers from the factory should not have contaminated refrigerant getting acidic. Leaving to the most likely culprit of wall thickness being to thin for mass production. Or the water that condenses on the coils cause microscopic corrosion that eats at the thin wall with no room to degrade too. Propane is not a bad idea. Maybe sometime I will try it.
Main problem is that you lower the system btu capacity by using lower pressure refridgerant, since the higher pressure vapor is denser it takes more power to compress for the same volume. So I'm your case the motor is way oversized and you're running it super easy on it, for the work being done. But as long as it works, albeit more slowly, you've given a second life to a dead thing.
Great work. I just fixed my first one and had plastic on fire too. I was lucky it was a single leak btw video on youtube "dehumidifier repair: diagnose, repair leak,". Seeing the leaking coils is the same situation that central air conditioners had coming from China when 410a was first being used. They called it as an excuse "formicary corrosion". I would suggest using a sealant for these little guys would be the best option. You might be able to fix multiple small leaks with it like you experienced. I'm working on my second one and am guessing it is like yours so I may try sealant.
Nice video. Those bullet valves always leak. You made the same mistake I did brazing in the valve. It is pointing down and becomes a small inline trap for the oil over time lowering the level in the compressor slightly. Doesn't seem to be a big deal for how small it is but something I will do differently next time.
@@fer8888888 btw I can't find a sealant for such a small unit, I guess it might be possible to share one tube over several units. Thanks for the tip about the valve trapping oil.
From what I've read online, getting an AC unit and modifying the drip pan is the most reliable way to dehumidify a room. Dehumidifier manufacturers are a pile of garbage at the moment, a good AC unit can last decades.
Great video, love to watch DIY repairs. Would you know where to obtain r32 gas and the correctly rated service valve for soldering? I have a few units I would rather have a right to repair them then just treat them as disposable every year.
You can get the valves on Amazon. As for your gas question. R32 does not appear to be available and looks like a drop-in replacement for R410A. If the datasheet info I used is correct, R410A should require 2.7% more refrigerant by weight due to slightly less density, which is basically measuring scale error. The pressure/temp charts I found look nearly the same. If the info I reviewed is correct. In theory, you should be able to pull a vacuum, then recharge with 2.7% more R410a if the oil in the unit is compatible with R410a. I suspect the oil is compatible but if not, then it will just wreck the compressor on the unit you were going to throw away. Of course, as a DIY you would do this at your own risk anyways. 40F = 4.4C 81F = 27.2C Density 2.7% difference R32 density 1.1g/cm 4.4C = 119 PSI 27.2C = 243 PSI R410A density 1.07g/cm 40F = 118 PSI 81F = 240 PSI
Eddie, Can you share with us the manufacturer of what you called Humidifier #2. The coil that was not leaking in your testing. That manufacturer probable has the best quality manufacturing control.
All the coils in the video are the same manufacturer different machines. Statistically with that many the odds are high atleast one would have a good part.
LOL I'm sure same problem: Not even 1 year old top Frigidaire Pump 70 pint unit - has the same tint blue coil. Ran for about a hear, then no gas, pump rungs coils room temperature LOL I wonder if this issue is related to the "blue" coils???
I wish you could go over how you filled it with the r-410a, you didnt show how you connected the lines to fill the unit with refrigerant. You have the best video so far that i could find, but still lacks that detail.
I have Emerson Quiet Kool PMP50 and it is not condensing water. The compressor runs, the humidity sensor works correctly, there seems to be no refrigerant leak, but it looks like refrigerant flow is partially blocked. The condenser (hot inner coil) stays pretty much at room temperature, only the pipe leading to the compressor (high pressure) gets hot. Likewise, the evaporator stays at room temperature except at the connection to the condenser (very thin coiled tube), which gets cold and produces like 1 droplet of water in 5 min. After about 30 min of running the compressor stops with an error code EC. Do you know how to fix this? Is there a way to figure out which coil is blocked? Is there a way to unblock it? Will adding a piercing valve help? Thanks.
I just purchased a secondhand refrigerant R290 dehumidifier. It’s called the corlitec dehumidifier. How do I know if it’s operating well? I’m afraid of a potential gas leak/carbon monoxide leak. Is a refrigerant dehumidifier capable of doing those things? Thank you.
Dehumidifiers with compressors typically use refrigerants. The amount of refrigerant in these standard size machines is small enough that in a standard house with air circulation/ventilation, it usually isn't a problem if it leaks. To diluted. Remember many people lose pounds of refrigerants in their home A/C's when the evap coil in the furnace leaks it out into the house. Those systems can hold 10-12lbs of refrigerant easy. I believe R290 is just a very dry and pure propane and these systems don't hold much of it. You would need to look at your situation, such home size, room size, dehumidifier, air leaks/ventilation. But propane is usually more dense than air and likes to stay low to the ground. Since propane is a flammable gas they do make flammable gas and CO2 sensors for around $30 at hardware stores you just plug into the wall and it hangs there like a smoke detector if you are really concerned. These are also good incase the heat exchanger in the gas furnace cracks or get holes, if the CO2 level gets to high inside it can detect that also. Otherwise non-flammable HFC refrigerants need a special gas detector for those.
@@fer8888888 Wow thank you so much for your comprehensive response! I feel better about my purchase now. I will heed your advise and purchase a flammable gas/CO2 sensor. My room size is about 4 meters square, and I always keep my windows open. I believe this unit has 60g of R290, that’s infinitesimal right? I’m guessing with that amount of propane, even if this unit goes faulty/or the heat exchanger cracks, adverse leaks won’t be substantial enough to inflict any harm? In retrospect, maybe should’ve bought a new unit for peace of mind! 😂
@@flyingdaworldhonestly you're better off with R290 as well. Much lower pressure, better heat conductivity so it can potentially use thicker copper, and also it can use mineral oil like the CFC's of old, unlike the POE oil that turns to acid if there's moisture, overheating, etc. much less likely to leak even in the same system design. We're talking under half the pressure of r410a/r32 here.
I bought the 25lb jug because I have an EPA license. I think you can buy the 2LB jug with out a license at a premium per pound for it. Or buy it on ebay. abilityrefrigerants.com/refrigerants/?gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-LGNI_pczTsee6EPLqPeRsQjYaQD_-Wfq2AlxEV7utDFIge1gIZWRxoCzkIQAvD_BwE
@@fer8888888 Sir. So you know somewhere cheaper because i bought a used one for $37. I thought it is fine but i noticed later it is not collecting water or reducing humidity until i figured it out to be out of freon. Because if i buy the 2 pound can for 100 bucks, it will cost me more than buying a new one. Another question, why do not dehumidifiers come with built in freon valve?. Are they designed to be disposable ?.
I have a question. Ive got a couple dehumidifiers and portable AC units and when the compressor turns off, they seem to give off a chemical odor. They seem to be dehumidifying and cooling still but I am wondering what the smell could be? Is it a leaking refrigerant?
Can't really say with out smelling it. But usually if refrigerant is carrying vaporized oil out with it. The device will not dehumidify or AC too many days longer as it runs.
@@fer8888888Do you know what type of odor the vaporized oil would have? I have two dehumidifiers and am trying to figure out if one (or both) of them are the source of a somewhat sweet but also slightly minty odor (almost like bubblegum mixed with a hint of toothpaste) that’s been building up in the house over the last week (I don’t chew gum and only use unscented cleaners so it’s not from me). Both dehumidifiers have reduced performance lately. And I just found a small dried puddle of some sort of blue/green crystallized substance underneath one of them (not in the bucket but under the machine). I know the SDS for r410a says it could have a sweet mild odor, but do you know what type of odor the vaporized oil would have?
Who are you calling? The manufacturer? Are they under warranty? I have an Arctic King 70 pint that started icing up. Definitely a leak because there is a big oil stain under the unit. I have the skill and equipment to do what you are doing however *the price of 410a is ridiculously high!* so I'm leaning towards selling AS-IS for $20-35 on CL No refrigeration guys will work on these units either even if I said I only want a charge.
@@fer8888888 Thanks for speedy reply! Does the manufacturer only replace if still under warranty? NOTE: those little bottles of 410a are stupid expensive compared to the 25# tank.
@@NoferTrunions That's my understanding. After the last one I gave up and bought a different brand I saw I sale. That one started icing up a little so decided statistically I have to have enough parts to make 1 non-leaking unit. So I invest in buying 25lbs of 410a. The little bottles are marked up because you don't need an EPA license to buy 2lb bottles.
@@fer8888888 Thanks for the 2# bottle tip (eBay seems to want licenses for all sales - but that is just eBay.) I'm thinking the best strategy is buy the cheapest unit you can find - specifically DO NOT buy a 70 pint unit. Run it to death in the basement. If it fails within 1 year (likely) you get another one (I wonder if the replacement has a warranty?). If it lasts more than 1 year you don't have that much in it since you bot the cheapest, "throw away" unit.
Hi i refill my but i dont know the gramms of 407.... i have ice before evaporator and to the first pipe of it... its normal? how mutc is the lowest temp to the evaporator and how mutc the highest temp in the compressor to room temperature? thanks!!!
A partly iced evap can be normal depending on the operating environment. If it is full packed with ice then there is a problem. A lot of times people refill till they start to see the frost melt near the end of the evap and call it good. Some people also recharge till outlet pipe of evap is about 10 degrees above freezing. The unit should say how many grams it takes or in the manual for the unit. That is the proper way to charge it.
@@ghostridergr8259 If you did not leave the system open for long simply pulling a vacuum and holding it for an hour should be fine. If you really want to, pull vacuum over night and then pull it again for 10 minutes in the morning. Most of the moisture will be gone. If you did brazing most old timers never purged but it is a best practice to help prevent the orifice tube getting clogged from soot due to burnt oil.
cheaper to make thinner walled coils than add an extra layer of tubing to get needed heat transfer- between efficiency standards and profit motive, quality gets killed. new ones end up wasting more resources than good old inefficient ones because of how frequently they fail.
You should edit your video pretending to be repairing these units under warranty. You should send your new video plus an invoice for your time to the manufacturer. Then tell them if it isn't paid in 30 days, a late fee will be added to the total bill. Then after a year sell the debt to a collection agency overseas. Then sleep easy knowing somewhere there's a call center making these clowns lives a living hell.
@@fer8888888 True, though you could take your findings and write a report to the EPA or a news organization regarding the poor engineering and craftsmanship on these units. Make a rough estimate based on the number of units manufactured and how much refrigerant they've released into the atmosphere. You're required to get a license to handle these chemicals properly, which you pay for from your own wallet. You will personally get fined if you don't follow regulations. Yet these manufacturers are not taking any precautions and with every release the government blames HVAC techs and requires more training.
Should be illegal for manufacturers to sell junk like this even if they replace faulty items.
Nice work, actually EPA608 compliant. You probably know this, but the aluminum fins are slipped over the copper tubes in a fixture, then a steel ball is hydraulically pushed through to expand the copper tube, so it is in tight fit for heat flow to the fins. That's probably where the thin wall is damaged. Small micro scratches, and the pulsations from the compressor cause them to open up. And I bet there's no quality control in the factory to even test for leaks. I now have 4 of these failed R410a dehumidifiers. I get about 2 years from them, and the warrantee is 90 days I think.
I remember reading a comment where after 2-3 years of working dehumidifier, it broke-down (when out of warranty). So what's a consumer to do who thinks you should get more than 3 years for your money? SO ...the man went to the box store, purchased the same model...a working model! Later returned the broken model, as defective and got his money back to reimburse his resent repurchase! Brilliant!
Best dehumidifyer refrigerant fix video so far! Good Job mastering that issue!
I have a Fridgidaire dehumidifier from 2008 that still works perfectly. I'm one of the few and proud. I also got a second Danby that's only from 2017 that's already lost the refrigerant. The Fridgidaire pulls a ton of water very quickly from the basement, and just simply keeps working. Time to sell the parts off the Danby!
I have two Fridgidaire dehumidifiers, both are less than 3 yr old. Both are now showing the F0 error code, due to refrigerant leaks, leading to overheating condenser and coils. They used to replace even units out of warranty, so it will be interesting to see what happens if I can contact them. I noticed the price DOUBLED over a span of 3 years, probably due to the warranty problems. Thanks for your info.
We have a Fridgidaire fridge from the 1960s thats still going strong!
I have a Frigidaire that's freezing up after a year, which led to me to searching for repair options and finding this video. They claimed it was one day out of warranty and wouldn't replace it, but after some pushing, they are now. It'll be interesting to see how long the new one lasts.
Excellent video. Thank you!
Expending on marketing rather than on quality became the go to business strategy for so many manufactures of almost everything these days. I will remember that brand and avoid it regardless of how appealing its products may be priced.
I am having similar experience with TCL dehumidifiers. They just keep sending new ones. Your video explains why. The number of hours you put into fixing it times the going hourly rate of a refrigeration mechanic will certainly exceed the price of a new unit.
Yeah....but what unit to buy? It would be good if one of the review companies like consumer reports went through this type of effort to see the manufacturing quality.
I'm glad to have found this video, as I tried exploring the coils on a recalled unit I picked out of the trash that had leaked down. An electronic leak detector couldn't find anything, and I have yet to try placing its coils in water. I'd been wondering where they go wrong, beyond the obvious answer of "it's cheap crap".
It's amazing to me how bad these things are, although I have two modern units (one Danby, one Frigidaire) that are a couple of years old and still going strong. Meanwhile, there's also a Sears Coldspot ("The Blotter") Thirty here that's had a fairly hard life and it's right on tilt for seeing its fiftieth year.
I'd be curious if you could get away with using that good condenser as an evaporator. I suspect it'd work, albeit less efficiently.
I wonder if the gas would expand properly in the thinner tube of the condenser.
Appreciate the video. I'm on at least my 6th unit with average life of two to three years. I don't have the tools to recharge R410a or the patience to solder the coils so I won't be taking that on. Considered the bullet valve trick...but after reading the comments I'll stay away from that. I'm on my third GE with the built in pump (APEL70 / APEL45). Really like the unit but only get two years out of it. My strategy? Buy the Home Depot warranty that adds 2-years to the manufacturer 1-year warranty for $45. Then in May when you turn it on and it runs but does not condense you have them replace it. Cost me $250 plus the $40 warranty in 2018. $45 for the next warranty on the replacement machine in 2020. About to buy the next one with the $45 warranty and hope it lasts two to three years. Do the same thing in 2024?
I tried the extended warranty game. A lot of them are a matter of luck if it will be painlessly honored when the time comes if even honored.
I am in the same situation. I just bought a cheap Insignia from BestBuy $189 and $55 for a 4 year extention. I know I will need a replace within 2 years. The Insignia looks to be internally the same as my Toshiba which only lasted 15 months.
Best course of action should be to find some 90's or early 2k's units or even older for cheap.
I have a Frigidaire dehumidifier ice on coil problem, come here, but this is too complicated for me to diy. But you are great expert
Ya this video was made to finally put to bed why these things lose their charge so fast when they should last 5-10 years easy.
@@fer8888888the strangest part is why other AC units don't nearly as often.. but yeah, pinhole galore here. Thin coils and the ball bearing stretching must be part of the culprit, plus galvanic corrosion, high pressure refridgerant, and POE oil that turns to acid with any moisture.. bad combination.
Nice video. Unfortunately confirms the obvious shoddy manufacturing quality of these units. Glad you got one working!
crazy the number of leaks
So I have this same one. Worked great for 2yrs, recently started icing up. It appears to have no leaks, low on refrigerant?
I wonder if stop leak would be effective. I wouldn't use it on a car but in these I might.
I also wonder if it would be possible to convert them to 134a considering how ridiculous the price of 410a is.
I made the mistake of buying a Frigidaire FFAP5033W1 from a wholesaler off of Mercari for $90 less than Amazon. It was great for about 10 months. After sitting most of the winter, I noticed blue liquid in the tank. I cleaned that out, turned it on, and it ran awhile then quit, displaying "EC" without ever producing a single drop of water. I contacted Frigidaire. They said no warranty since it wasn't purchased from an authorized retailer. I took it apart and ran it with the cover off, compressor and blowers run, but nothing gets cold except a little coil (I think it's the capillary tube). If run long enough, the compressor gets too hot to touch. There was a little blue/green dried residue in random places in the unit, I assume is corrosion, but couldn't really tell the source of it. I'm assuming it's leaked out all of its R410a. I've replaced compressors and filled refrigerant on cars, but your video shows me this is probably over my head. I guess moral of the story is don't buy one of these without a good warranty. Or in my case, don't buy one of these at all and just live with a humid basement.
The problem is design of the dehumidifier and it's use of 410a refrigerant. When 410a systems become contaminated or overheated the refrigerant can become acidic. At which point it starts eating holes in the copper and aluminum lines. So trying to fix 410a systems especially if they have multiple leaks is pointless. Which is why the manufacturer is happy to keep sending you replacements, they know the units can't be fixed.... I fished a 410a dehumidifier out of my neighbor's trash. Just like with you the manufacturer sent them another unit when theirs quit. I didn't really even bother to look for a leak. I just refilled it with propane from a 1lb disposable bottle sold for camp stoves and heaters. This grade of propane is basically identical R290 except they add an odorant in the propane.
With propane being a much larger molecule and the system running at only 65psi on the low side a unit filled with propane should leak much slower than it did with 410a, Or if you are very lucky it may not leak at all. Plus the propane won't continue to eat holes in the system. My scavenged dehumidifier goes about 8 to 10 months before needs more gas. When running propane you also use only a fraction of the gas the system used with 410a. Topping it off takes so little gas a 1lb bottle would last several years.
I agree that topping off 410a with its high pressures is pointless. The unit is still running holding a charge since the making of that video. When the walls of metal are made to thin the imperfections in the grains can become problematic to holding gases to when mass produced. Almost none of the air bubbles have pin holes, but look like they are seeping through the copper's grain structure. The humidifiers from the factory should not have contaminated refrigerant getting acidic. Leaving to the most likely culprit of wall thickness being to thin for mass production. Or the water that condenses on the coils cause microscopic corrosion that eats at the thin wall with no room to degrade too. Propane is not a bad idea. Maybe sometime I will try it.
Main problem is that you lower the system btu capacity by using lower pressure refridgerant, since the higher pressure vapor is denser it takes more power to compress for the same volume. So I'm your case the motor is way oversized and you're running it super easy on it, for the work being done. But as long as it works, albeit more slowly, you've given a second life to a dead thing.
Great work. I just fixed my first one and had plastic on fire too. I was lucky it was a single leak btw video on youtube "dehumidifier repair: diagnose, repair leak,". Seeing the leaking coils is the same situation that central air conditioners had coming from China when 410a was first being used. They called it as an excuse "formicary corrosion". I would suggest using a sealant for these little guys would be the best option. You might be able to fix multiple small leaks with it like you experienced. I'm working on my second one and am guessing it is like yours so I may try sealant.
Nice video. Those bullet valves always leak. You made the same mistake I did brazing in the valve. It is pointing down and becomes a small inline trap for the oil over time lowering the level in the compressor slightly. Doesn't seem to be a big deal for how small it is but something I will do differently next time.
@@fer8888888 btw I can't find a sealant for such a small unit, I guess it might be possible to share one tube over several units. Thanks for the tip about the valve trapping oil.
Jeez. What brand dehumidifier is it that you kept getting bad units?
Do you know which companies let you keep the original (broken) dehumidifier after using their 1 year warranty?
From what I've read online, getting an AC unit and modifying the drip pan is the most reliable way to dehumidify a room. Dehumidifier manufacturers are a pile of garbage at the moment, a good AC unit can last decades.
That's not a bad idea, but it triggers off temperature, so something to control it by humidity would be needed.
@@fer8888888 humidistat controlled power outlets are cheap and easy to get
Great video, love to watch DIY repairs. Would you know where to obtain r32 gas and the correctly rated service valve for soldering? I have a few units I would rather have a right to repair them then just treat them as disposable every year.
You can get the valves on Amazon. As for your gas question. R32 does not appear to be available and looks like a drop-in replacement for R410A. If the datasheet info I used is correct, R410A should require 2.7% more refrigerant by weight due to slightly less density, which is basically measuring scale error. The pressure/temp charts I found look nearly the same. If the info I reviewed is correct. In theory, you should be able to pull a vacuum, then recharge with 2.7% more R410a if the oil in the unit is compatible with R410a. I suspect the oil is compatible but if not, then it will just wreck the compressor on the unit you were going to throw away. Of course, as a DIY you would do this at your own risk anyways.
40F = 4.4C
81F = 27.2C
Density
2.7% difference
R32
density 1.1g/cm
4.4C = 119 PSI
27.2C = 243 PSI
R410A
density 1.07g/cm
40F = 118 PSI
81F = 240 PSI
Eddie, Can you share with us the manufacturer of what you called Humidifier #2. The coil that was not leaking in your testing. That manufacturer probable has the best quality manufacturing control.
All the coils in the video are the same manufacturer different machines. Statistically with that many the odds are high atleast one would have a good part.
Are there any good Dehumidifiers made? I am on my 3rd in 6 years.
Outside of the $1500 aprilaire then no. My buddy has that one and it works great.
LOL I'm sure same problem: Not even 1 year old top Frigidaire Pump 70 pint unit - has the same tint blue coil. Ran for about a hear, then no gas, pump rungs coils room temperature LOL I wonder if this issue is related to the "blue" coils???
I wish you could go over how you filled it with the r-410a, you didnt show how you connected the lines to fill the unit with refrigerant. You have the best video so far that i could find, but still lacks that detail.
I punctured the line and brazed on a fitting.
What normal R410a pressure should you read on these demuhidifier when turned off at room temp?
I love the chalk board.
I have Emerson Quiet Kool PMP50 and it is not condensing water. The compressor runs, the humidity sensor works correctly, there seems to be no refrigerant leak, but it looks like refrigerant flow is partially blocked. The condenser (hot inner coil) stays pretty much at room temperature, only the pipe leading to the compressor (high pressure) gets hot. Likewise, the evaporator stays at room temperature except at the connection to the condenser (very thin coiled tube), which gets cold and produces like 1 droplet of water in 5 min. After about 30 min of running the compressor stops with an error code EC. Do you know how to fix this? Is there a way to figure out which coil is blocked? Is there a way to unblock it? Will adding a piercing valve help? Thanks.
Sounds like low refrigerant or bad compressor valve. With out pressure readings, really can't say.
Is there any brand/model of dehumidifier you suggest to buy? Amazing video btw.
If you find one that lasts let me know.
can you do this with a map gas torch? To repair leak I mean.
I just purchased a secondhand refrigerant R290 dehumidifier. It’s called the corlitec dehumidifier. How do I know if it’s operating well? I’m afraid of a potential gas leak/carbon monoxide leak. Is a refrigerant dehumidifier capable of doing those things? Thank you.
Dehumidifiers with compressors typically use refrigerants. The amount of refrigerant in these standard size machines is small enough that in a standard house with air circulation/ventilation, it usually isn't a problem if it leaks. To diluted. Remember many people lose pounds of refrigerants in their home A/C's when the evap coil in the furnace leaks it out into the house. Those systems can hold 10-12lbs of refrigerant easy. I believe R290 is just a very dry and pure propane and these systems don't hold much of it. You would need to look at your situation, such home size, room size, dehumidifier, air leaks/ventilation. But propane is usually more dense than air and likes to stay low to the ground. Since propane is a flammable gas they do make flammable gas and CO2 sensors for around $30 at hardware stores you just plug into the wall and it hangs there like a smoke detector if you are really concerned. These are also good incase the heat exchanger in the gas furnace cracks or get holes, if the CO2 level gets to high inside it can detect that also. Otherwise non-flammable HFC refrigerants need a special gas detector for those.
@@fer8888888 Wow thank you so much for your comprehensive response! I feel better about my purchase now. I will heed your advise and purchase a flammable gas/CO2 sensor. My room size is about 4 meters square, and I always keep my windows open. I believe this unit has 60g of R290, that’s infinitesimal right? I’m guessing with that amount of propane, even if this unit goes faulty/or the heat exchanger cracks, adverse leaks won’t be substantial enough to inflict any harm? In retrospect, maybe should’ve bought a new unit for peace of mind! 😂
@@flyingdaworldhonestly you're better off with R290 as well. Much lower pressure, better heat conductivity so it can potentially use thicker copper, and also it can use mineral oil like the CFC's of old, unlike the POE oil that turns to acid if there's moisture, overheating, etc. much less likely to leak even in the same system design. We're talking under half the pressure of r410a/r32 here.
Where did you buy R410a?
How much it costed you and from where i can get a small amount of this freon ?
I bought the 25lb jug because I have an EPA license. I think you can buy the 2LB jug with out a license at a premium per pound for it. Or buy it on ebay.
abilityrefrigerants.com/refrigerants/?gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-LGNI_pczTsee6EPLqPeRsQjYaQD_-Wfq2AlxEV7utDFIge1gIZWRxoCzkIQAvD_BwE
@@fer8888888
Sir. So you know somewhere cheaper because i bought a used one for $37. I thought it is fine but i noticed later it is not collecting water or reducing humidity until i figured it out to be out of freon. Because if i buy the 2 pound can for 100 bucks, it will cost me more than buying a new one.
Another question, why do not dehumidifiers come with built in freon valve?. Are they designed to be disposable ?.
I have a question. Ive got a couple dehumidifiers and portable AC units and when the compressor turns off, they seem to give off a chemical odor. They seem to be dehumidifying and cooling still but I am wondering what the smell could be? Is it a leaking refrigerant?
Can't really say with out smelling it. But usually if refrigerant is carrying vaporized oil out with it. The device will not dehumidify or AC too many days longer as it runs.
@@fer8888888Do you know what type of odor the vaporized oil would have? I have two dehumidifiers and am trying to figure out if one (or both) of them are the source of a somewhat sweet but also slightly minty odor (almost like bubblegum mixed with a hint of toothpaste) that’s been building up in the house over the last week (I don’t chew gum and only use unscented cleaners so it’s not from me). Both dehumidifiers have reduced performance lately. And I just found a small dried puddle of some sort of blue/green crystallized substance underneath one of them (not in the bucket but under the machine). I know the SDS for r410a says it could have a sweet mild odor, but do you know what type of odor the vaporized oil would have?
Plastic fantastic smoke! Don't breathe that in!
Who are you calling? The manufacturer? Are they under warranty?
I have an Arctic King 70 pint that started icing up. Definitely a leak because there is a big oil stain under the unit. I have the skill and equipment to do what you are doing however *the price of 410a is ridiculously high!* so I'm leaning towards selling AS-IS for $20-35 on CL No refrigeration guys will work on these units either even if I said I only want a charge.
Yes the manufacturer. 410a is about $160 for 25lbs. More than enough for dehumidifier plus will have it if my home A/C ever has issues.
@@fer8888888 Thanks for speedy reply! Does the manufacturer only replace if still under warranty? NOTE: those little bottles of 410a are stupid expensive compared to the 25# tank.
@@NoferTrunions That's my understanding. After the last one I gave up and bought a different brand I saw I sale. That one started icing up a little so decided statistically I have to have enough parts to make 1 non-leaking unit. So I invest in buying 25lbs of 410a. The little bottles are marked up because you don't need an EPA license to buy 2lb bottles.
@@fer8888888 Thanks for the 2# bottle tip (eBay seems to want licenses for all sales - but that is just eBay.) I'm thinking the best strategy is buy the cheapest unit you can find - specifically DO NOT buy a 70 pint unit. Run it to death in the basement. If it fails within 1 year (likely) you get another one (I wonder if the replacement has a warranty?). If it lasts more than 1 year you don't have that much in it since you bot the cheapest, "throw away" unit.
Excellent video!
Hi
i refill my but i dont know the gramms of 407.... i have ice before evaporator and to the first pipe of it... its normal? how mutc is the lowest temp to the evaporator and how mutc the highest temp in the compressor to room temperature?
thanks!!!
A partly iced evap can be normal depending on the operating environment. If it is full packed with ice then there is a problem. A lot of times people refill till they start to see the frost melt near the end of the evap and call it good. Some people also recharge till outlet pipe of evap is about 10 degrees above freezing. The unit should say how many grams it takes or in the manual for the unit. That is the proper way to charge it.
@@fer8888888 thanks for your time
i am frai maube insider i have humidity from air... because i change one oring to magnetic valve... i must try to take out air with nitrogen
@@ghostridergr8259 If you did not leave the system open for long simply pulling a vacuum and holding it for an hour should be fine. If you really want to, pull vacuum over night and then pull it again for 10 minutes in the morning. Most of the moisture will be gone. If you did brazing most old timers never purged but it is a best practice to help prevent the orifice tube getting clogged from soot due to burnt oil.
cheaper to make thinner walled coils than add an extra layer of tubing to get needed heat transfer- between efficiency standards and profit motive, quality gets killed. new ones end up wasting more resources than good old inefficient ones because of how frequently they fail.
Oh no - the one your thumbnail is the same as mine 😂 not a good sign
Luck of the draw. Odds are worse than a casino.
maybe use a heat shield LOL
Do you still have those compressors
I threw most of them out. But still have a few for spares incase the one I made fails.
I save the compressors and use them or sell them
i sent 10 of those to the landfill in 30 years they suck
5:31 condenser leaking like sieve (!) wow!
You should edit your video pretending to be repairing these units under warranty. You should send your new video plus an invoice for your time to the manufacturer. Then tell them if it isn't paid in 30 days, a late fee will be added to the total bill. Then after a year sell the debt to a collection agency overseas. Then sleep easy knowing somewhere there's a call center making these clowns lives a living hell.
Like the idea. But it would probably be a person making $10 an hour answering phone calls hearing it, saying stop calling to them.
@@fer8888888 True, though you could take your findings and write a report to the EPA or a news organization regarding the poor engineering and craftsmanship on these units. Make a rough estimate based on the number of units manufactured and how much refrigerant they've released into the atmosphere. You're required to get a license to handle these chemicals properly, which you pay for from your own wallet. You will personally get fined if you don't follow regulations. Yet these manufacturers are not taking any precautions and with every release the government blames HVAC techs and requires more training.
this low quality manufactured junk is whats filling up the landfills
The ironic part of supposed energy efficiency benefits, done at the bottom dollar.
Ive had three different brands and the longest ive gotten from yhem is 3 years. They are all p's o.s.