Cortina Mk3 2000E - Pinto engine strip-down
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Cylinder head removal, gasket residue cleanup. Camshaft, followers, springs & retainers all removed for valve lapping.
Engine block degreased & painted. Pistons inspected & cleaned.
All gasket surfaces cleaned and checked for alignment
Sump stripped & re-sprayed.
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Shelley, although you done a lot already in reverse order, you’ve now mentioned that you are going to remove the crank and renew the bearings. I am relieved that you are, after all the work you’ve done! Also I respect that you have been trying to protect the sides of the bores and pistons using a grease to stop debris dropping down the sides, but after doing all of this work so far, I really think you should have also checked and fitted new piston rings as the lower oil “scraper” rings loose a lot of their tension over the years and if you don’t put fresh ones in you may suffer again from high oil consumption…
Remember to check the top of the block for flatness and the mating face of the cylinder head before reassembly of the valves just in case it needs a fine skim. Lastly, the cast inlet ports on the Pinto engine were found to be already to large (during production) - so don’t be tempted to make them any bigger..
enjoyed this , thanks for taking the time to film it and put it out there!
Well done Shelley, you’re very honest…Not sure if I’d admit to using the wrong size socket! 😄👍
I can't beleive i didn't see the difference. I was very lucky!
@Shelly's Cortina , I presume you know of Pete C ???? @Cortina City ??
If you do , I hope Petes OK??
Hes the Cortina King !!!!!
I do indeed! His videos are a huge help to me. He’s now done 5 Cortina’s in total. He’s given me some tips along the way.
I hope he’s back on RUclips soon!
@@ShelleysCortina Top bloke is Pete , i miss him
Loving your engine rebuild vid, spent my life trying to understand internal combustion myself
Had a mk3 1.3L Escort as a kid , thing nearly killed me , deathtrap
Still i wish i had it now , you cud hear the tappets from next week !!!
Face of the head should ideally be horizontal when grinding valves laid on blocks of wood etc.
False economy not fitting hardened exhaust seats as grinding them loses any work hardening or 'lead memory'.
Oh and its valve grinding paste :)
Nice work Shelley, ( As you can see I’ve done a lot of comments for you in the hope that it stimulates other comments! 😊)
Shelley if when you are polishing the inlet valve heads, don’t touch the valve stems as you must not reduce their diameter. Check for valve stem rock now, (because if they are to floppy the engine will suck down and burn oil) If they are really badly worn, oversized-stemmed valves are available with a matching reeming tool. (Pinto valve guides are the cast iron so can’t be taken out)..
Shelley, avoid putting a crowbar into the delicate inlet ports. The cast wall of the inlet port is fragile due to its thinness as the water jacket and oil drillings are on the other side! (If you break through with the crowbar you would have to throw the head away). When undoing the splined head bolts, you must dry out the head bolt completely using toilet paper before putting the spline tool in, otherwise the old oil in the bolt will hydraulically prevent the tool going right in and the spline will strip. To break the seal between the head and the block, probably best to strike a strong corner of the head with a very heavy piece of old soft wood, like an old log or fence post. Painting an engine is only done as the very last job after final reassembly, not before hand…
cheers Phil. Yes i think I've done some things back to front. But i painted it when it was still all together and freshly cleaned so it was nice to work on it clean. I think I'll put anoter coat on after reassembly as there are some marks now. Crowbar... looks like i got away with it. It came away very easily so i think all the banging with the wood had already done the brunt of the work.