You need oil in the tank so it lubes the rotary gear on the crankshaft. If you don’t have oil in the tank you’ll burn up the engine. I’ve seen people fill the lines up with oils and loop them (I don’t recommend doing that because you’ll eventually run out of oil and also burn up the engine.)
Correct, the rotary valve area is totally separate from lubing the crank and pistons. They are now being lubed by the premix gas. The lube for the RV circulates amd cools that area also. The more oil in rotation (due to the tank) the better.
@@DHClapp the pumps do fail pretty often. They are reliable but the skis are so old, that they fail. Either buy new components for the oiling system or just block it off and run premix.
Nice video but make sure that you turn on the engine first and the water after! Doing it the opposite way will flood your engine eventually! Keep up the great videos!
As you get older you will learn that a table or work bench is your friend (the part where you were cleaning the engines on the ground made my back and knees hurt)...always amazed at your talent and hard work! Great job!!...
That sound is the jet pump bearing, very common sound on all the old seadoo’s, nothing to worry about typically. The VTS is an issue on a lot of skis, check the VTS motor in the rear of the ski, if you get it to move by jumping it it’s fine, if the VTS motor is fine then it’s wiring or your buttons.
You're seriously wrong about that bearing. Any bearing making noise is a serious danger. 5 diplomas working on everything from small Engines, motorcycles, automotive, radial aircraft engines, turboshaft Helo engines and more pretty much qaulifies me to make that statement. Especially on older engines.
I like how you're doing just slight sly camera /editing tricks and slipping them in. Loving the flow of the videos lately. You definitely upped your editing / shooting game.
The oil tank is needed even when you do a premix conversion because the rotory gear (aka intake timing gear) needs to be lubricated and cooled. The oil tank would normally supply oil to the oil injection pump for combustion along with oil for rotory gear. The cycling of oil in the rotory gear will allow the gear to be cooled.
The vts motor goes out on all of these. Luckily it’s a standard window motor from most GM cars. You can probably pick one up cheap at the auto parts store
Just a tip you should always turn the water on after you start the ski, it can flood the exhaust if you start it before. Couldn’t tell if you were doing that in this video or not but thought I’d let you know! Love your videos :)
Hey bud just a heads up ALWAYS start your ski first before the hose you will hydro lock your engine if you don’t! Same goes for shutting it off hose first then engine
What happens while under load in the water could be telling. Did you ever check spark/compression on the motors? I know you had them done for you but its possible the carb could be running a little rich and could use some adjustment to more than the idle.
This is cool. Jet skis totally don’t work how I thought they did. I always thought an impeller pumped the water into the jet, but it looks like the jet itself pulls in the water. Super cool.
Definitely a good idea to go premix only. Given they're older used engines and you don't know how many hours they have on them I'd go with a 50 to 1 mix. Better safe than sorry. That pump goes out and you're cruisin' high speed for a couple of miles it'll suck when your engine goes POW CACHUNK and you gotta hope you're not alone.
Keep the oil pump. If you are really worried, service the pump. There are hundreds of thousands if not millions of oil injected 2 strokes out there, jetskis snowmobiles outboard dirtbikes that dont blow up. Because a few of a million have failed does not mean they all will fail. You will more likely end up with bad gas than a bad oil pump.
I personally run Amsoil for everything. It’s one of the best oils on the market. I would stick to 40:1. And for those skis, I would run the Amsoil intercepter, if I remember correctly because they require a special formula for the rave valves. And you want to fill the oil tank and add oil to the gas for the first tank so the oil lines fill.
Most oil pumps on just about all 2 strokes are bullet proof. The only time there is ever a problem is if you have a leak somewhere. Leaks are what cause just about all oil starvation problems. I’ve seen tanks form hairline cracks, and then the jarring from the waves makes them grow. Another big problem (which is most common) is the oil lines themselves. Usually the dry out and have a loose fitting over the barb on the carbs and will pop off when out on the water. Usually when any of this happens you won’t find out until it is too late. Oil injection(when tuned right) will usually be the best the engine will ever run and will keep from fouling plugs but I usually remove it to eliminate any risk at all. I usually keep mine between 1/2- WOT for most of the time I run them so I never have a problem with oil buildup. Just run a quality oil like the amsoil dominator series or amsoil interceptor if you have power valves.
You’ve done a fantastic job! These look amazing and have given me some inspiration on a few builds I have on the books. Just an observation, I always leave the oil pumps intact when rebuilding. Oil pumps failing are an anomaly. Just replace the lines and there’s really no worries. Also, API-TC oil will protect the engine better than TCW3 in rotary valve engines because they run at a higher internal temperature than Yamaha or Kawasaki etc. This is even more important with RAVE engines. I’m a big fan of AMSOIL Interceptor or XPS VTS “trim fix” kit is a good repair that won’t break the bank for around $60. Also, on the VTS module I like to coat the top with “Goop” to prevent water damage where the electronics are sealed in Sorry if this has been brought up in other comments, I haven’t read them all.
Great Job. Motor sounds rough. Borrow Sams scope and look at the top of the piston and rings. Not using a small engine is the worst thing you can do to it. Also check power to tilt motor. A lot of times it is just a bad connection. Good luck.
I'm actually jealous mate, I wish I was there helping you rebuild them! Please learn more about engines and start doing rebuilds, a lot of us would definitely watch. From Australia!
Do a compression test on the "cotton candy" one. I had an older waverunner that sounded clanky and was shaking and it was low on compression on 1 cylinder.
Vibration could be bent connecting rod. Bent drive shaft.broken motor mount.vts are junk check the motor that moves the nozzle in the back.remove connector add power see if it moves.go from there.They are prone to leaking.and failure. I'm the guy who told you about the snubbers on the gtx.
your 1st test should be compression test if you havent already. It's easy, simply pull 1 plug out at a time and replace with compression tester, put both spark plug caps on the orange posts for safety. hold thottle wide open and crank for 5-7 sec. New engine should read 150psi (+/- 5 psi) and a good used engine will have over 125psi and no more than +/- 5% difference of other cylinder. Another thing to check is in your black box(where ignition coils are, there is a female spade connector that get loose and/or corroded as well as another round ground connector( if i remember right but 787 may be different). Lastly and most important, buy NEW spark plugs. I am just recently learning this, even if they are new they may fail right out of the box.
The vts motor might be bad on mine my motor was bad so I replaced the motor but the gears for the motor and the up down thing where wrong so make sure u get the exact specific motor for your ski
Hands down your the best at adding videos..you could milk it and stretch these just to get views but instead you actually do work and get a lot of progress done and we appreciate that..so thank you for the way you do things plus your work is pretty awesome imo..that clanking noise in a 2 stroke is normal..definitely makes it sound like something is broke inside but in reality that thing will run faster than the quiet one probably..I use klotz oil..its a little more pricey but definitely a premium oil that makes engines run smoother plus the smell is amazing..I'm always asked on the water whats that smell because people like it..lmao..and 2 strokes do smoke a lot but you won't see any of that when their on the water...keep up the good work and thanks
Nice video, one of your jet ski smoke a lot due bad piston rings, recommend buy new pistons and new rings. It will reduce smoke because better sealing cylinders walls and increase compression. It’ll sound better 🤷♂️
First thing for the seadoo running weird is check the compression . If it checks out good then start it and pull one spark plug boot off at a time. If the engine dies down the cylinder was firing. If no change its dead. Could be down a cylinder from compression or spark related issues.
Not sure if someone has said it already. But you want to turn the water on after you start the ski. If you turn it on before you risk hydro locking the engine.
Hydro turf makes some decent seats but if you ever want to put something in with crazy quality and customizability all my personal skis that I don't end up flipping get the jettrim treatment. In any instance you need NOS or used oem Nick & Jess at westside powersports are the go to for me. I'm crazy in to these seadoos and my personal collection (although very small now as I've had to sell my other skis) is just 2 96 HXs, a 97 GSX, and a couple kawasakis that I already have listed. If you ever need any help diagnosing a problem on these skis lmk. Also another thing, the 657x is pretty strung out as it is so the expandability for performance pipes is pretty narrow in terms of the trade off you'll be getting. But if you're able to score a fpp pipe for the 657x the stinger on it is pretty narrow and you'll end up with a hole in the piston. Recommend opening it up by 2mm and you should be good along with a rejet. Also can do a ape pipe with 44's if you are able to source it. osdmarine is where I go to get a lot of my carb rebuild parts at. They'll have everything you need, including a pop-off tester if you don't have one already. I only get oem or nos when applicable too, the sbt stuff just doesn't last imo. seadoowarehouse is where I go for that too. Also quick question, had you aligned your two ski's drivelines? I hadn't seen the tool in your video so just curious, fingers crossed you did but if you didn't that'll be something you want to do asap.
The clanking sound... there is a rubber insulator coupling on the driveshaft that wears out. The clanking is the metal on each side of the coupler hitting each other because the rubber separator is worn out.
Not sure if someone has made mention yet but the engine should always be running before the hose is turned on. Otherweis water can backflow into the engine and flood or hydrolock it. Ps awesome work👍
Zach, you are very luck you didn't hydro-lock your engines. Always start the engine with the water turned off and then once the engine is running turn on the water. The exhaust mixes with the water in the exhaust manifold and if you don't have the engine running when the water gets turned on, the water will run back up the exhaust manifold and fill your engine.
U have to use the oil tank for the balance shaft gear on a 2 stroke Rotax/Seadoo engine. It's is a bronze gear that runs on the crank and is how the motor is balanced.
Sea doo might be different but when I converted my yamaha to premix I completely removed the oil pump system completely. I now use the oil tank to hold premix gas for the primer system. 50 to 1 premix should give you plenty of oil and the plugs will foul less.
Throw a rpm gauge on a spark plug lead and set the idle to ~3000rpm out of the water iirc. In the water the impeller will cause drag and bring the idle down to roughly the proper level. Also don’t turn on the water until the motor is started up or else you run the risk of flooding the motor.
Is a 58 year old man that loves jet skis still have my original ski I bought when I was 28 Sea-Doo SP and I restored cars for 40 years the whole car mechanical to bodywork and paint your painting will get better you need to seal the gel coat on those holes with an etching type urethane primer block the primer smooth polyurethane on the belly is good good self-leveling Bass on the top with a 10-year clear black all the clear and wheel it seal it use a good D waxer then apply your rap it will be so much smoother and the longevity will be years longer you've got the skills you'll get better in time hope this helps and by the way that's just a pump rattling they make a anti-rattle cap and I even holds a little more oil.
Curious if you used an alignment tool when installing the engines. Putting the shims back in exactly as when it came out should be ok, but I'd be concerned about the side to side alignment. Good job on everything. Impressive.
It's a bad idea to remove the oil injection system on a Seadoo. As mentioned the rotary valve needs oil. You do need to make sure and bleed the oil pumps and line up the mark on the pump with the line on the engine. You do want to run some premix gas along with the oil injection system as a backup on a rebuilt engine. 4 stroke engines have an oil pan and an oil pump that circulates oil through the engine to the bearings and cylinder walls. The oil isn't supposed to get burned off. With a two stroke engine the oil is mixed in with the fuel at some point depending on the setup. The oil, air, fuel mixture gets pulled down into the bottom of the engine and circulated up into the combustion chamber. It gets burned off with the fuel. Around 200w the EPA started requiring PWCs to switch to 4 stroke engines because of the pollution from oil being burned. Two stroke engines are also less fuel efficient.
Running pre-mix and oil injection at the same time?? Im guessing you'll fowl a good amount of spark plugs..lol. You can only run one or the other. (im guessing you know already) Skis turned out great though!
Tractor Supply sells bolts/nuts/washers by the pound. Go there and grab handfuls of different sizes and you’ll never buy individual bolts again. Good luck I like what you are doing.
Should have slapped the 657x in the one that has the trim controls.... Also the module for the trim is in the fuse box you can replace it with I believe q 451m relay there's a video on RUclips for step by step what wires go where
Just like a 4 stroke the bearings need oil. Only difference is that the carbs are mounted at the bottom of the engine so the fuel and oil mixture travels through the crankcase and lubricates all the bearings, and then travels up into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. 2 strokes use roller bearings instead of journal bearings so they don’t require thicker oil and can run with a fuel and oil mixture.
Motor shaking could be a broken motor mount. Might also be an alignment issue with the engine and pump shaft. The mounts need to be shimmed to adjust the alignment.
The trim is a very common thing to not work on the older seadoos. It’s rare to see them still working. U don’t rly need it tho I use mine with no trim. Work ur way up from 40:1 to 50:1 ratio in the next few fill ups of ur tank. It will smoke less once ur at 50:1. Just figured I’d put any knowledge I got as I have a 1992 Kawasaki and a 1996 seadoo xp800. Have fun bro love the vids.
can you go into detail with tank you are referring to? Will be picking up a seadoo similar to his model and thinking about deleting the oil pump and running premix.
You should really invest in a sandblasting cabinet, it’s awesome for removing paint and rust off of anything metal, I did my entire car with one, makes a huge difference
I’m gonna go with miss fire. Could be smoking from a lot of oil build up and needs to just be ram out of there. But I’m going with a miss fire. Obviously it’s running so it couldn’t be a blown piston. Could need rings check the compression make sure u hold the throttle wide open. I think tip top shape should be about145 150. But running condition is definitely 125. But usually when it shakes it’s a misfire
Use Walmart super tech or cabalas 2 stroke oil. Quicksilver is expensive for no reason. I have been running super tech and Cabelas for 10+ years no issues at all. In all my 2 strokes.
Make sure you start the ski before you turn the water hose on.. Also turn the water hose off before you turn the ski off . I heard it's bad if you don't do it that way..
I guess that button you cut off was the stuff you attach a cord to your lifesave vest so in case you fell off it turns the engine off or put it in idle
No, the safety cutoff is still intact. He attaches it to the seadoo before starting both of them. The switch he cutoff is something else. Safety cutoffs are usually not a circuit where it keeps the circuit closed. It's usually a circuit that grounds the ignition system so it doesnt get spark.
I'm sure someone else mentioned it but Quicksilver is a TCW3 oil which Seadoo claims should not be run in these, they recommend it API type 2 strike oil. Just use the Seadoo XPS oil you have there for both tank and premix
For the VTS first make sure the connections are very good because even if it’s loose it won’t work. But if that doesn’t work sadly it’s probally because the module is bad and you would have to get a replacement
That hose looks to be vinyl tubing from like Lowe’s or Home Depot. I highly doubt it is gasoline rated! If you used it for gas it will get really stiff and fail super fast.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w7Wf0h1Q8a4/mqdefault.jpg)
You need oil in the tank so it lubes the rotary gear on the crankshaft. If you don’t have oil in the tank you’ll burn up the engine. I’ve seen people fill the lines up with oils and loop them (I don’t recommend doing that because you’ll eventually run out of oil and also burn up the engine.)
The oil is also imperative for lubing the pistons in their cylinders, the rod and crank bearings and the crankshaft seals.
Correct, the rotary valve area is totally separate from lubing the crank and pistons. They are now being lubed by the premix gas. The lube for the RV circulates amd cools that area also. The more oil in rotation (due to the tank) the better.
So if you still need the oil reservoir, why run pre-mix? Do the pumps go out often?
@@DHClapp read what Todd Lewis wrote 👆
@@DHClapp the pumps do fail pretty often. They are reliable but the skis are so old, that they fail. Either buy new components for the oiling system or just block it off and run premix.
Nice video but make sure that you turn on the engine first and the water after! Doing it the opposite way will flood your engine eventually! Keep up the great videos!
Yep hydrolock your engine wouldn’t be fun
This! very important. Shut water off before engine also
Best to have a a quick shut off for the water right at the ski.
As you get older you will learn that a table or work bench is your friend (the part where you were cleaning the engines on the ground made my back and knees hurt)...always amazed at your talent and hard work! Great job!!...
That sound is the jet pump bearing, very common sound on all the old seadoo’s, nothing to worry about typically. The VTS is an issue on a lot of skis, check the VTS motor in the rear of the ski, if you get it to move by jumping it it’s fine, if the VTS motor is fine then it’s wiring or your buttons.
You're seriously wrong about that bearing.
Any bearing making noise is a serious danger.
5 diplomas working on everything from small Engines, motorcycles, automotive, radial aircraft engines, turboshaft Helo engines and more pretty much qaulifies me to make that statement.
Especially on older engines.
I like how you're doing just slight sly camera /editing tricks and slipping them in. Loving the flow of the videos lately. You definitely upped your editing / shooting game.
haha, definitely noticed the carb coming out of nowhere
Get rid of that inline fuel filter, use the factory water fuel separator, it can cause a lean condition and blow ur engine up
Two day's ago I started following your channel and I honestly enjoy you , your video's and especially the inventions that you do . Thanks for sharing.
The oil tank is needed even when you do a premix conversion because the rotory gear (aka intake timing gear) needs to be lubricated and cooled. The oil tank would normally supply oil to the oil injection pump for combustion along with oil for rotory gear. The cycling of oil in the rotory gear will allow the gear to be cooled.
Love the “wrap” you created yourself. Much better than the decal. You got mad skills mate. Keep the content coming
The vts motor goes out on all of these. Luckily it’s a standard window motor from most GM cars. You can probably pick one up cheap at the auto parts store
I don't suppose you could tell me which car/s? I think I'm gonna need one.
@@lefachop5755 nissan 240SX the cost is just as much as buying a VTS motor.
Just a tip you should always turn the water on after you start the ski, it can flood the exhaust if you start it before. Couldn’t tell if you were doing that in this video or not but thought I’d let you know! Love your videos :)
I'd really like to see you paint the blue Hood to Pink so it matches just like the other one dose, but the other one is my favorite....
No, the blue lid looks amazing
also 2 strokes smoke alot on cold starts or after idling for semi long periods of time. once your on the lake and open them up theyll smoke alot less.
Hey bud just a heads up ALWAYS start your ski first before the hose you will hydro lock your engine if you don’t! Same goes for shutting it off hose first then engine
What happens while under load in the water could be telling. Did you ever check spark/compression on the motors? I know you had them done for you but its possible the carb could be running a little rich and could use some adjustment to more than the idle.
I dare you to wrap the trailer similar to the SeaDoos!
Is that a double dog dare?
@@ultimaterebuilds7127 Oh Yes!
@@sundawg5251 I second
@@sundawg5251 same
I third that.
This is cool. Jet skis totally don’t work how I thought they did. I always thought an impeller pumped the water into the jet, but it looks like the jet itself pulls in the water. Super cool.
Definitely a good idea to go premix only.
Given they're older used engines and you don't know how many hours they have on them I'd go with a 50 to 1 mix.
Better safe than sorry.
That pump goes out and you're cruisin' high speed for a couple of miles it'll suck when your engine goes POW CACHUNK and you gotta hope you're not alone.
Keep the oil pump. If you are really worried, service the pump. There are hundreds of thousands if not millions of oil injected 2 strokes out there, jetskis snowmobiles outboard dirtbikes that dont blow up. Because a few of a million have failed does not mean they all will fail. You will more likely end up with bad gas than a bad oil pump.
I personally run Amsoil for everything. It’s one of the best oils on the market. I would stick to 40:1. And for those skis, I would run the Amsoil intercepter, if I remember correctly because they require a special formula for the rave valves. And you want to fill the oil tank and add oil to the gas for the first tank so the oil lines fill.
Would love to see a video on how you adjust those carbs!
Most oil pumps on just about all 2 strokes are bullet proof. The only time there is ever a problem is if you have a leak somewhere. Leaks are what cause just about all oil starvation problems. I’ve seen tanks form hairline cracks, and then the jarring from the waves makes them grow. Another big problem (which is most common) is the oil lines themselves. Usually the dry out and have a loose fitting over the barb on the carbs and will pop off when out on the water. Usually when any of this happens you won’t find out until it is too late. Oil injection(when tuned right) will usually be the best the engine will ever run and will keep from fouling plugs but I usually remove it to eliminate any risk at all. I usually keep mine between 1/2- WOT for most of the time I run them so I never have a problem with oil buildup. Just run a quality oil like the amsoil dominator series or amsoil interceptor if you have power valves.
You’ve done a fantastic job! These look amazing and have given me some inspiration on a few builds I have on the books.
Just an observation, I always leave the oil pumps intact when rebuilding. Oil pumps failing are an anomaly. Just replace the lines and there’s really no worries. Also, API-TC oil will protect the engine better than TCW3 in rotary valve engines because they run at a higher internal temperature than Yamaha or Kawasaki etc. This is even more important with RAVE engines. I’m a big fan of AMSOIL Interceptor or XPS
VTS “trim fix” kit is a good repair that won’t break the bank for around $60. Also, on the VTS module I like to coat the top with “Goop” to prevent water damage where the electronics are sealed in
Sorry if this has been brought up in other comments, I haven’t read them all.
Great Job.
Motor sounds rough. Borrow Sams scope and look at the top of the piston and rings. Not using a small engine is the worst thing you can do to it. Also check power to tilt motor. A lot of times it is just a bad connection. Good luck.
I'm actually jealous mate, I wish I was there helping you rebuild them!
Please learn more about engines and start doing rebuilds, a lot of us would definitely watch.
From Australia!
Your work is amazing thanks for sharing your very informative videos I absolutely love the finished sea doos they really pop
Never open the water before starting the engine you could fill the engine with water and turn the water off then the engine
Do a compression test on the "cotton candy" one. I had an older waverunner that sounded clanky and was shaking and it was low on compression on 1 cylinder.
Vibration could be bent connecting rod. Bent drive shaft.broken motor mount.vts are junk check the motor that moves the nozzle in the back.remove connector add power see if it moves.go from there.They are prone to leaking.and failure. I'm the guy who told you about the snubbers on the gtx.
Great content and well produced! Subscribed! FWIW, maybe check compression on the one weird engine and go from there.
Don't really ever think about this but your soundtrack for the engine drop in during the montage was great
your 1st test should be compression test if you havent already. It's easy, simply pull 1 plug out at a time and replace with compression tester, put both spark plug caps on the orange posts for safety. hold thottle wide open and crank for 5-7 sec. New engine should read 150psi (+/- 5 psi) and a good used engine will have over 125psi and no more than +/- 5% difference of other cylinder. Another thing to check is in your black box(where ignition coils are, there is a female spade connector that get loose and/or corroded as well as another round ground connector( if i remember right but 787 may be different). Lastly and most important, buy NEW spark plugs. I am just recently learning this, even if they are new they may fail right out of the box.
I like the discgolf basket!
The vts motor might be bad on mine my motor was bad so I replaced the motor but the gears for the motor and the up down thing where wrong so make sure u get the exact specific motor for your ski
Hands down your the best at adding videos..you could milk it and stretch these just to get views but instead you actually do work and get a lot of progress done and we appreciate that..so thank you for the way you do things plus your work is pretty awesome imo..that clanking noise in a 2 stroke is normal..definitely makes it sound like something is broke inside but in reality that thing will run faster than the quiet one probably..I use klotz oil..its a little more pricey but definitely a premium oil that makes engines run smoother plus the smell is amazing..I'm always asked on the water whats that smell because people like it..lmao..and 2 strokes do smoke a lot but you won't see any of that when their on the water...keep up the good work and thanks
Thanks for the carb guy! going to use his services.. keep up the good work!!
Nice video, one of your jet ski smoke a lot due bad piston rings, recommend buy new pistons and new rings. It will reduce smoke because better sealing cylinders walls and increase compression. It’ll sound better 🤷♂️
First thing for the seadoo running weird is check the compression . If it checks out good then start it and pull one spark plug boot off at a time. If the engine dies down the cylinder was firing. If no change its dead. Could be down a cylinder from compression or spark related issues.
Definitely got to do something with that trailer now throw a wrap on it
Not sure if someone has said it already. But you want to turn the water on after you start the ski. If you turn it on before you risk hydro locking the engine.
Can’t wait for another meet and greet! They look AWESOME! 👌🏼🔥
Hydro turf makes some decent seats but if you ever want to put something in with crazy quality and customizability all my personal skis that I don't end up flipping get the jettrim treatment. In any instance you need NOS or used oem Nick & Jess at westside powersports are the go to for me. I'm crazy in to these seadoos and my personal collection (although very small now as I've had to sell my other skis) is just 2 96 HXs, a 97 GSX, and a couple kawasakis that I already have listed. If you ever need any help diagnosing a problem on these skis lmk. Also another thing, the 657x is pretty strung out as it is so the expandability for performance pipes is pretty narrow in terms of the trade off you'll be getting. But if you're able to score a fpp pipe for the 657x the stinger on it is pretty narrow and you'll end up with a hole in the piston. Recommend opening it up by 2mm and you should be good along with a rejet. Also can do a ape pipe with 44's if you are able to source it. osdmarine is where I go to get a lot of my carb rebuild parts at. They'll have everything you need, including a pop-off tester if you don't have one already. I only get oem or nos when applicable too, the sbt stuff just doesn't last imo. seadoowarehouse is where I go for that too. Also quick question, had you aligned your two ski's drivelines? I hadn't seen the tool in your video so just curious, fingers crossed you did but if you didn't that'll be something you want to do asap.
The clanking sound... there is a rubber insulator coupling on the driveshaft that wears out. The clanking is the metal on each side of the coupler hitting each other because the rubber separator is worn out.
Hi for the oil, Yamaha lube 2 stroke is the best oil in my opinion never seen a engine on my table with people using it at 40/1
Beat episode of the rebuild so far!
Penzoil 2 cycle marine oil from walmart is a great cheap option too.
Not sure if someone has made mention yet but the engine should always be running before the hose is turned on. Otherweis water can backflow into the engine and flood or hydrolock it. Ps awesome work👍
Very cool builds. Why go to premix? Sea-Doos oil injection is the most robust and dependable ever made. Plus, you burn almost 2x the oil on premix.
Zach, you are very luck you didn't hydro-lock your engines. Always start the engine with the water turned off and then once the engine is running turn on the water. The exhaust mixes with the water in the exhaust manifold and if you don't have the engine running when the water gets turned on, the water will run back up the exhaust manifold and fill your engine.
U have to use the oil tank for the balance shaft gear on a 2 stroke Rotax/Seadoo engine. It's is a bronze gear that runs on the crank and is how the motor is balanced.
Looks like you have a great ethos with working on those jet skie’s.
Sea doo might be different but when I converted my yamaha to premix I completely removed the oil pump system completely. I now use the oil tank to hold premix gas for the primer system. 50 to 1 premix should give you plenty of oil and the plugs will foul less.
Throw a rpm gauge on a spark plug lead and set the idle to ~3000rpm out of the water iirc. In the water the impeller will cause drag and bring the idle down to roughly the proper level. Also don’t turn on the water until the motor is started up or else you run the risk of flooding the motor.
I can’t get enough of your videos. Truly the best channel on the tube. Keep up great work. 🤘🤘
Is a 58 year old man that loves jet skis still have my original ski I bought when I was 28 Sea-Doo SP and I restored cars for 40 years the whole car mechanical to bodywork and paint your painting will get better you need to seal the gel coat on those holes with an etching type urethane primer block the primer smooth polyurethane on the belly is good good self-leveling Bass on the top with a 10-year clear black all the clear and wheel it seal it use a good D waxer then apply your rap it will be so much smoother and the longevity will be years longer you've got the skills you'll get better in time hope this helps and by the way that's just a pump rattling they make a anti-rattle cap and I even holds a little more oil.
Can't wait to see them run! Looks like a need a Sea-Doo now haha
For VTS check motor in back of ski. Sometimes water gets in there and shorts the motor out.
Curious if you used an alignment tool when installing the engines. Putting the shims back in exactly as when it came out should be ok, but I'd be concerned about the side to side alignment. Good job on everything. Impressive.
It's a bad idea to remove the oil injection system on a Seadoo. As mentioned the rotary valve needs oil. You do need to make sure and bleed the oil pumps and line up the mark on the pump with the line on the engine. You do want to run some premix gas along with the oil injection system as a backup on a rebuilt engine.
4 stroke engines have an oil pan and an oil pump that circulates oil through the engine to the bearings and cylinder walls. The oil isn't supposed to get burned off.
With a two stroke engine the oil is mixed in with the fuel at some point depending on the setup. The oil, air, fuel mixture gets pulled down into the bottom of the engine and circulated up into the combustion chamber. It gets burned off with the fuel. Around 200w the EPA started requiring PWCs to switch to 4 stroke engines because of the pollution from oil being burned. Two stroke engines are also less fuel efficient.
Running pre-mix and oil injection at the same time?? Im guessing you'll fowl a good amount of spark plugs..lol. You can only run one or the other. (im guessing you know already) Skis turned out great though!
Tractor Supply sells bolts/nuts/washers by the pound. Go there and grab handfuls of different sizes and you’ll never buy individual bolts again. Good luck I like what you are doing.
Should have slapped the 657x in the one that has the trim controls....
Also the module for the trim is in the fuse box you can replace it with I believe q 451m relay there's a video on RUclips for step by step what wires go where
Just like a 4 stroke the bearings need oil. Only difference is that the carbs are mounted at the bottom of the engine so the fuel and oil mixture travels through the crankcase and lubricates all the bearings, and then travels up into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. 2 strokes use roller bearings instead of journal bearings so they don’t require thicker oil and can run with a fuel and oil mixture.
You should paint that blue hood pink imo. The yellow painted flows a lot better.
Motor shaking could be a broken motor mount. Might also be an alignment issue with the engine and pump shaft. The mounts need to be shimmed to adjust the alignment.
The trim is a very common thing to not work on the older seadoos. It’s rare to see them still working. U don’t rly need it tho I use mine with no trim. Work ur way up from 40:1 to 50:1 ratio in the next few fill ups of ur tank. It will smoke less once ur at 50:1. Just figured I’d put any knowledge I got as I have a 1992 Kawasaki and a 1996 seadoo xp800. Have fun bro love the vids.
Also yamalube is good 2 stroke oil
I can help you with your trim. It is a common issue!
You need oil in the tank for the rotary bath. It does not use much oil just need to oil up the rotary gear so you won’t blow out the gear.
can you go into detail with tank you are referring to? Will be picking up a seadoo similar to his model and thinking about deleting the oil pump and running premix.
Keep the premixed. Put a new pump on if you really worried. The pumps are reliable and much easier to deal with.
@@lonestarangler8407 you need to keep the oil tank. There will be 2 tanks. Oil and gas.
Make sure you start ski before water from faucet gets turned on. You don’t want to hydrolock the motor. Not sure if you were doing it in that order
Love the jetski builds
Dude you are an artist!
crazy to think you could be reselling these for 5k each where I live
Ontario ?
@@CP-kb1du Most definitely Ontario. The used Seadoo prices here are crazy.
Pounding out these awesome videos so quick love the seadoo videos
You should really invest in a sandblasting cabinet, it’s awesome for removing paint and rust off of anything metal, I did my entire car with one, makes a huge difference
You have to start it let it run for like 5 seconds then open the water
Love the wrap
I’m gonna go with miss fire. Could be smoking from a lot of oil build up and needs to just be ram out of there. But I’m going with a miss fire. Obviously it’s running so it couldn’t be a blown piston. Could need rings check the compression make sure u hold the throttle wide open. I think tip top shape should be about145 150. But running condition is definitely 125. But usually when it shakes it’s a misfire
That looks soooo fresh man! Dang.
Just fixed the VTS on a '95 xp by replacing the 7.5A fuse that had blown. Start there, fuses are cheap.
Use Walmart super tech or cabalas 2 stroke oil. Quicksilver is expensive for no reason. I have been running super tech and Cabelas for 10+ years no issues at all. In all my 2 strokes.
I'm so digging the yellow bro😍😍😍💣💣💥
Make sure you start the ski before you turn the water hose on.. Also turn the water hose off before you turn the ski off . I heard it's bad if you don't do it that way..
They look great
I guess that button you cut off was the stuff you attach a cord to your lifesave vest so in case you fell off it turns the engine off or put it in idle
No, the safety cutoff is still intact.
He attaches it to the seadoo before starting both of them.
The switch he cutoff is something else.
Safety cutoffs are usually not a circuit where it keeps the circuit closed.
It's usually a circuit that grounds the ignition system so it doesnt get spark.
I'm sure someone else mentioned it but Quicksilver is a TCW3 oil which Seadoo claims should not be run in these, they recommend it API type 2 strike oil. Just use the Seadoo XPS oil you have there for both tank and premix
Just a fantastic overall overhaul 🤣 see what I did there? But seriously...great job dude 👌🏼
Love these videos, makes me want to rebuild one myself! Thanks for putting out great content!!
Did you use the engine alignment tool?
Did you align the engine? I sure hope so....
My accomplishments in life are few, however I have been first twice in a row😂
Very impressed!
oil premix does not lube the bottom end rotary valve gear, it needs its own separate loop lines
For the VTS first make sure the connections are very good because even if it’s loose it won’t work. But if that doesn’t work sadly it’s probally because the module is bad and you would have to get a replacement
It will set u back about $50-70 so it’s not too bad of a setback :)
That hose looks to be vinyl tubing from like Lowe’s or Home Depot. I highly doubt it is gasoline rated! If you used it for gas it will get really stiff and fail super fast.
Nope that is not for gas. This is the water lines
I just use the seadoo full synthetic in my gas and I’ve never had a problem those motors are made for seadoo specific oil
Zach which lake is that. I am always confused. I have been to LW so many times but that the lake you go to is not LW
I'm sure u know but make sure to loctite everything especially those bolts in the spark arrestor that can get in the engine.
The crank needs oil, you do this by bathing the bottom end in oil and a oil hose running as a loop from one side of the engine to the other
On the Cotton candy one I have the same engine in one of my snowmobiles and it was doing the same thing tell it blew the top end
The cotton candy is Awesome!
Would be cool to do color matched paint on the motors. Pink on one yellow on the other.
Also the noise atleast on the video sounds like pump rattle. Probably no big deal but could be a broke thrust washer.