Mads, may I suggest to use velcro tape instead of double sided tape? This would allow you to remove the remote control box easily, whenever you need to. Happy to see you both sailing!
@@SailLife Also put some velcro near wherever you think you will use the wireless remote. You may find that it lives on that velcro and you just reach out and touch the buttons. Less likely to go overboard too.
It is always great to see our products on board :) Just a small correction concerning the mounting of Thetis 7003. In the package we provide 2 screws M3x19, 2 screws M2.5x16, and 2 mounting brackets for mounting the Receiver, base unit. The device can be mounted very easily. Initially the 2 brackets must be fitted on the back, right and left of the device with the 2 screws (M2.5x16) removing the already existing ones. Then the whole set is fastened in the desired position using the 2 screws M3x19. Regarding the cables, and in order to prevent any damages, we advise you not to flip them upside down, as we saw in the video. Thank you for the video! Lofrans’ Team
With your snubber place it through the middle of the cleat pull the circle over either and it will not come off unless you take it off love every part of all your videos tony
Those are perfect.. for sticking an when you figure something better no mess from the double sided tape... I use that on a lot of stuff... Guys your really getting Athena done I will make a small piece of art for Athena... Now that the sticky note art is gone ... Lol!! 🤣😂 Again, Thanks for sharing your lives with us.. ✌🏼💗😊❣️
Ladies and Gentlemen, If the people on the dock are not laughing at the size of your anchor may I suggest you get one that is two sizes larger. With the nice setup you have and all chain a monster anchor is I have found to be "pretty darn spiffy'. All the best
As a long-time believer in and user of the Rocna, I know that the 25 is spiffily in the middle of the recommended size for a boat of their tonnage and length. Other makes of anchor would need to be larger. Go, Rocna!
Many weeks ago, I saw you guys using those little clips instead of pins for sewing, so I bought a small jar of them. I've been sewing since high school (45 plus years) and wish I had known about these long ago. I have two big jars of sewing clips now. Thank you.
Eva, suggestion on the jerry covers - leave a ~2-3 cm gap at the bottom so the water on deck will drain and you don't get algae/mould growing on the fabric. Great video as always!
BTW - Can I just say that your diligent use of section heading for the videos is AWESOME! It is particularly handy when going back to find a section in an old video. Thanks for going the extra kilometer with your content!
I was happy to see the locking brummel for the bridle thimble, it would also work great for the eyes instead of splicing them. Its a great splice, just lock and taper the tuck.
Hi Mads & Eva. I recently started watching you two again and I'm really happy that you have started your sailing adventure. As an old RVer, I have to tell you I think you will eventually regret your color choice for your jerrycan covers. The sun will heat up your blue jerrycans, and eventually, bake them. But, black would have been even worse. The color to choose is reflective white. Happy sailing!!
Everything is allways tight and uncomfortable working and installing things on a boat, no matter the size of the boat ☝️🤦♂️🤣 At least to my personal experience 🤔😁
Actually the size of the rope loop for the cleat is wright, here’s a trick that I’ve learned years a go during one of my diving courses, pass the rope under the cleat (on the small central aperture) then fold the loop upwards and secure in to the top part (like doing a Y shape), it wold transfer better the weight from the anchor chain to the cleat and make a more secure gap that couldn’t make out by mistake
I'm a long-time viewer and have enjoyed watching the extensive transformation of Athena - congratulations on all that you have accomplished! In your last video I did noticed that the swivel on your ground tackle was connected directly to the anchor, may I suggest that you add a couple of chain links between the anchor and the swivel so that the swivel is not strained laterally with each wind shift but is always pulled straight-on which is how the swivel is designed to operate.
Mads, try routing the long loop on your bridle through the center of the cleat and then fold it back over the ends of the cleat. It makes use of the longer bight and provides a more secure fastening.
As always your positivity is refreshing. What about seeing if there is a maker-space there like in the UK. You could 3d print your mounting brackets. You could also sew up something for the remote so you would not loose it in the water...maybe. ;)
We have endless problems with our ceiling fan remote controls. 5 am on a frosty morning the fan in our bedroom starts up full speed. Then the fan and light go on and off in the dining room. We are having remote control battles with a neighbour. Imagine if you are in a marina and you can drop your neighbour's anchors for them. I mean currently I can change my neighbour's Victron charger from 12 volts to 24 over bluetooth.
Hello guys, as a suggestion Mads, for Mk II of the bridle, may I suggest you consider not forming the loops, for the deck cleats. I did exactly the same as you, though I whipped the base of the thimble to allow for stretch. A wise old sailor seeing my bridle simply commented "what will you do when the wind increases in the anchorage overnight and you start to drag, how will you let out more scope?" I now have just two straight lengths, no loops, longer than the original.
That snubber should be a lot smaller diameter for a boat this size, after all you're trying to make something springy, this will never stretch much with a 45footer. Mk2 on the way haha
Mads ,I put stick on plastic magnets on my remote controller for my trolling motor and for the remote controller for the anchor. The plastic magnetic tape is strong enough to hold the controller in place and you can put the magnetic tape to hold the controller any place you want to . The magnetic tape comes off really easy if you decide to move the location without effecting the surface you've put it on.
Have you considered making (or buying) a wrist strap for the wireless remote controller? That way when in use, make a habit of wrapping the strap around your wrist as an added security from drops. The responsiveness lag on the wireless remote is normal. I just recently installed one on a winch and it too has lag. You learn to live with it as the benefits of having a wireless remote far outweighs any negatives.
I'd even take it further and use a lanyard with netting type pouch to stick the controller in. That way it leaves both hand free in between use while anchoring.
Hi Mads, I have a (different) wireless remote, with what I believe is a very similar problem to the one you have. When you are raising the anchor onto its roller, there is often a need to ‘inch’ it in to get it to sit right on the roller, with the chain taut enough to hold it in place. The problem with my remote (and maybe yours too) was that it always runs for 1 to 1.5 seconds as a minimum, which makes it difficult to get the anchor in place without it slamming in with the chain bar-taut. I now always use the manual remote for final positioning….
You guys are such a great team. Really looking forward to you adventures once you start cruising. Mades , I cringed a little bit watching you breathing in the smoke from the canvas cutter. Don’t know about that material but I believe with sunbrella, you’re advised to use breathing protection. That stuff is a witches brew of chemicals.
First, please get a fan or use the shop vac and don't breath in the burning synthetics! We love you and are strangely attached to two people we've never met. Death by weird lung diseases is no way to go! Second, I also had trouble finding a pattern for Jerry Can covers and had to make my own. I ended up adding a flap over the handle to keep it covered too, and even left it open in the middle so I could run a rope through the handle. We really appreciate our sun shades, so good job making those! Thanks for all your videos! We'll look forward to seeing you next week. =) Rebecca SV Fun Between the Sheets #fbtssailing
When it comes to mounting objects like remotes, I always suggest using 3M Dual Core fasteners. It is a very strong plastic similar to velcro. I have used it for years even on my scuba gear. Once it sticks it stays, and it takes a tool to separate.
I used Command Adhesive strips for a towel rail as did not want to drill into my shower wall still holding after 3 years. They are good for semi permeant attachment.
Speaking of tape, I've recently discovered nano-tape. clear, double-sided, leaves no residue, holds SUPER strong, easy to remove, reusable. crazy stuff. anyways thank you for the content as always.
I've been watching your videos since you started your channel, and am so glad to see you out cruising with Ava now. You might want to belay the loops of your new snubber through the center of the cleat, and then pass the loop around the ends. This will be much more secure so they can't fall off. The extra long loops you made accidentally are actually ideal for this. Here is how to do it: ruclips.net/video/DQS7an5cyK8/видео.html
The good part of the larger loops is it will be simple and fast to get them on during the initial excitement of dealing with a mooring procedure, and then you can come back once everything is secure and switch to the through-the-cleat method Ron suggested.
Just put an up / down switch in the cockpit then you can operate the windlass singlehanded from the cockpit while manoeuvring the boat just in case the wireless version stops working.
Thank you for today's video Mads and Ava. The jerry can covers are going to look classy when they are done. I like the deep blue. Your 'garage' looks better than mine does at the moment but I'm sure yours will look much spiffier in short order. The care and have a productive week ahead.
Mads, long ago I made a neoprene cover to protect my VHF. If you do the same thing, just a slipcover to put the remote conttol in, it should keep it floating and drop protect it. Neoprene is easy to sew, ask any dive shop.
I was wondering if you had disconnected the smoke sensor while using the electric element cutter.....lol..I hope so..that was a lot of smoke and if no alarm went off, I would be worried...lol....great video, just you make things look so darn easy...lol...see you.....next week...John
Mads, you should be time-lapsing your waterline as you bring more doohickeys onboard! :P Love the channel, been watching since Obelix! Ava is doing great. Be happy.
Make a wrist lanyard for the wireless windlass remote. Add a sponge type floatation device to the lanyard so that if you drop it overboard you will not need to dive to try and recover the device…. A waterproof heavy gauge plastic bag to protect the device would not be a bad idea too if it is not already waterproof.
Mads, could you put the loop on you splice under the cleat, between the mounting posts before looping around the horns so to better keep it in place? ( I hope that is understandable)
How were the Candy Apples? Oh..Ya.. Another good show. As others have suggested velcro for the wired and remote controls. Use a nice size strip for the mounting location and a small strip on the devices.
Try to get some used firehose for chafe. It lasts the longest and is the cheapest, even free if you ask at the fire stations around you. I tried many bridles but actually now use a single snubber with a rolling hitch. Cheap, quick, and easy. Don't bother with bridle anymore, as it rubs against our bobstay. Also consider not putting in eye splices on the cleat end, as this prevents you from adjusting them under load easily.
Another great video. I hope you both have a fantastic 100th day of the year (it also my 57 birthday). Love tasks today. Your Sailrite sewing machine has more then paid for its self. The best sunshades I have seen in South Florida are made with similar material. You may want think about adding a couple cords or tape down the long runs to help sagging and rippling during breezes. Have a spiffy day. (Love that word)
Hi, great video's. Are you worried about all of your electronics in a salt water enviorment. What is your protection from lighting. Keep the video coming.
Double sided tape+aluminum fence ties can make for a decently sturdy thing in a house. (Dunno about on a boat). 8-bit guy has a video where he talks about doing it.
One should never hammer a magnet! That will transform it from a magnet back to a simple piece of iron. (rare Earth magnets are not as much of an issue)
If I could, I would wish you what, in the U.S., is considered a traditional picnic tablecloth. Fuzzy on one side, to protect that gorgeous table you work on, slick vinyl on the other. While working on that table, you made me cringe a bit. I have found it almost impossible to splice 8-strand; nice job!
Firstly I've enjoyed your whole series, that boat is lucky to have you two! Just A thought Athena is a kool name but whutta' bout' calling her the "P D SPIFY",,,, seven letters/good ju-ju,,,,
You should get a 3D printer, that way you would be able to make all the mounts and doohickeys you need.. or build a foldable easy storable 3d printer... 🙂
Regarding the windlass, the 3% voltage drop is a vestige of the Lead acid word designed to prevent additional voltage drop added to the already large drop at the batteries. 10% is well within safety and the LI batteries drop very little and have a high resting voltage anyway. It is wierd that this is not more known. Maybe the wire mfg are blocking this information LOL
Looks like you have enough anti chafe that you could just cut another similar sized length, open them up and sew together. It might be fugly - but it'll get you through.
I was wondering about the use of a Hall effect sensor in such a simple device. However, the sensor for the transition of the magnet is probably a reed contact. That works similar to a relay contact, except the magnetic field is not produced by a coil, but by the proximity of the magnet in the gypsy.
Hall effect sensors are used everywhere you will be pretty hard to find a reed switch anymore especially in devices like that since even in a slow situation the high amount of cycling would mean a very short lifespan and a hall effect is basically a solid state reed switch
Hello! I am new to your channel, and thank for your good pointers. I was searching for more info on the installation of the magnet and sensor for the Thetis 7003 I just purchased. The info from Lofrans is a the very best « poor » from a customer oriented philosophy I happen to have. Anyway, you mentioned the alternative method of mounting the sensor and led me to believe there was actually a special part available from Lofrans. I would like to know if this is the case and in that case would you have a reference for purchasing one (part number?) for a Lofrans Tigres windlass, it would be most appreciated (if not I will design one attached to the chain stripper’s bolts)? I totally agree with your in saying the plastic tube is a «flimsy » approach. On another note I also agree with at least two other followers regarding the snubber loops. I would not make Any loop to maintain the ability to remove the snubber under emergency conditions without having to strain the windlass motor unnecessarily. Thank you in advance for your response.
For the canvas alternation to access the handles - why not add a slit on both sides equal in length to the handle? When you grab in the fabric would just adjust to for your grip
Mads, may I suggest to use velcro tape instead of double sided tape? This would allow you to remove the remote control box easily, whenever you need to. Happy to see you both sailing!
That's a great idea! Ava actually got both 🙂
I believe Velcro is a rip off.
@@MARTINA-gc3tq :-D
@@SailLife Also put some velcro near wherever you think you will use the wireless remote. You may find that it lives on that velcro and you just reach out and touch the buttons. Less likely to go overboard too.
@@MARTINA-gc3tq 😆
It is always great to see our products on board :)
Just a small correction concerning the mounting of Thetis 7003. In the package we provide 2 screws M3x19, 2 screws M2.5x16, and 2 mounting brackets for mounting the Receiver, base unit. The device can be mounted very easily.
Initially the 2 brackets must be fitted on the back, right and left of the device with the 2 screws (M2.5x16) removing the already existing ones. Then the whole set is fastened in the desired position using the 2 screws M3x19.
Regarding the cables, and in order to prevent any damages, we advise you not to flip them upside down, as we saw in the video.
Thank you for the video!
Lofrans’ Team
With your snubber place it through the middle of the cleat pull the circle over either and it will not come off unless you take it off love every part of all your videos tony
Those are perfect.. for sticking an when you figure something better no mess from the double sided tape... I use that on a lot of stuff... Guys your really getting Athena done I will make a small piece of art for Athena... Now that the sticky note art is gone ... Lol!! 🤣😂 Again, Thanks for sharing your lives with us.. ✌🏼💗😊❣️
Ladies and Gentlemen, If the people on the dock are not laughing at the size of your anchor may I suggest you get one that is two sizes larger. With the nice setup you have and all chain a monster anchor is I have found to be "pretty darn spiffy'.
All the best
As a long-time believer in and user of the Rocna, I know that the 25 is spiffily in the middle of the recommended size for a boat of their tonnage and length. Other makes of anchor would need to be larger. Go, Rocna!
Many weeks ago, I saw you guys using those little clips instead of pins for sewing, so I bought a small jar of them. I've been sewing since high school (45 plus years) and wish I had known about these long ago. I have two big jars of sewing clips now. Thank you.
Eva, suggestion on the jerry covers - leave a ~2-3 cm gap at the bottom so the water on deck will drain and you don't get algae/mould growing on the fabric.
Great video as always!
BTW - Can I just say that your diligent use of section heading for the videos is AWESOME! It is particularly handy when going back to find a section in an old video. Thanks for going the extra kilometer with your content!
Every time I watch one of your videos, I marvel at the gorgeous bench tops. You have done a wonderful job restoring that boat. A joy to watch.
I was happy to see the locking brummel for the bridle thimble, it would also work great for the eyes instead of splicing them. Its a great splice, just lock and taper the tuck.
Mads. The delay on the remote is to help ensure you don't trigger the windlass accidentally when fingers are in the way
Hi Mads & Eva. I recently started watching you two again and I'm really happy that you have started your sailing adventure. As an old RVer, I have to tell you I think you will eventually regret your color choice for your jerrycan covers. The sun will heat up your blue jerrycans, and eventually, bake them. But, black would have been even worse. The color to choose is reflective white. Happy sailing!!
That is another learning moment… never thought wiring on a boat accessory would be that tight especially on a windlass. 👍🙂
Everything is allways tight and uncomfortable working and installing things on a boat, no matter the size of the boat ☝️🤦♂️🤣 At least to my personal experience 🤔😁
Actually the size of the rope loop for the cleat is wright, here’s a trick that I’ve learned years a go during one of my diving courses, pass the rope under the cleat (on the small central aperture) then fold the loop upwards and secure in to the top part (like doing a Y shape), it wold transfer better the weight from the anchor chain to the cleat and make a more secure gap that couldn’t make out by mistake
I'm a long-time viewer and have enjoyed watching the extensive transformation of Athena - congratulations on all that you have accomplished! In your last video I did noticed that the swivel on your ground tackle was connected directly to the anchor, may I suggest that you add a couple of chain links between the anchor and the swivel so that the swivel is not strained laterally with each wind shift but is always pulled straight-on which is how the swivel is designed to operate.
Mads, try routing the long loop on your bridle through the center of the cleat and then fold it back over the ends of the cleat. It makes use of the longer bight and provides a more secure fastening.
Looks like I can scratch Lofrans’ off my wish list. Thank you for another great video!
As always your positivity is refreshing. What about seeing if there is a maker-space there like in the UK. You could 3d print your mounting brackets. You could also sew up something for the remote so you would not loose it in the water...maybe. ;)
Thumbs up for the docking splices...it's perfect...!!
A little fun project would be to attach a floater "doo hicky" to the wireless witless control.
or a cord to secure it around your neck.
We have endless problems with our ceiling fan remote controls. 5 am on a frosty morning the fan in our bedroom starts up full speed. Then the fan and light go on and off in the dining room. We are having remote control battles with a neighbour. Imagine if you are in a marina and you can drop your neighbour's anchors for them. I mean currently I can change my neighbour's Victron charger from 12 volts to 24 over bluetooth.
A cork sanding block would be good. Floats and continues the sanding reference.
I love the new toys. You are both amazing. The very best to you
Hello guys, as a suggestion Mads, for Mk II of the bridle, may I suggest you consider not forming the loops, for the deck cleats. I did exactly the same as you, though I whipped the base of the thimble to allow for stretch. A wise old sailor seeing my bridle simply commented "what will you do when the wind increases in the anchorage overnight and you start to drag, how will you let out more scope?" I now have just two straight lengths, no loops, longer than the original.
That snubber should be a lot smaller diameter for a boat this size, after all you're trying to make something springy, this will never stretch much with a 45footer. Mk2 on the way haha
Mads ,I put stick on plastic magnets on my remote controller for my trolling motor and for the remote controller for the anchor.
The plastic magnetic tape is strong enough to hold the controller in place and you can put the magnetic tape to hold the controller any place you want to . The magnetic tape comes off really easy if you decide to move the location without effecting the surface you've put it on.
Congratulations. I'm so glad this channel is growing so well, great to see a channel get the recognition they deserve.
I like watching your video, both of you have this "Danish" humor, and I also like the way you catch your DIY on film.
Have you considered making (or buying) a wrist strap for the wireless remote controller? That way when in use, make a habit of wrapping the strap around your wrist as an added security from drops. The responsiveness lag on the wireless remote is normal. I just recently installed one on a winch and it too has lag. You learn to live with it as the benefits of having a wireless remote far outweighs any negatives.
And if you make the strap from a floaty material, if you drop it you won't lose it to the depths.
I'd even take it further and use a lanyard with netting type pouch to stick the controller in. That way it leaves both hand free in between use while anchoring.
Hi Mads, I have a (different) wireless remote, with what I believe is a very similar problem to the one you have. When you are raising the anchor onto its roller, there is often a need to ‘inch’ it in to get it to sit right on the roller, with the chain taut enough to hold it in place. The problem with my remote (and maybe yours too) was that it always runs for 1 to 1.5 seconds as a minimum, which makes it difficult to get the anchor in place without it slamming in with the chain bar-taut. I now always use the manual remote for final positioning….
Another Nice and instructive video from Mads & Ava. You are making my sunday
Have a nice time in France.
You guys are such a great team. Really looking forward to you adventures once you start cruising. Mades
, I cringed a little bit watching you breathing in the smoke from the canvas cutter. Don’t know about that material but I believe with sunbrella, you’re advised to use breathing protection. That stuff is a witches brew of chemicals.
First, please get a fan or use the shop vac and don't breath in the burning synthetics!
We love you and are strangely attached to two people we've never met. Death by weird lung diseases is no way to go!
Second, I also had trouble finding a pattern for Jerry Can covers and had to make my own. I ended up adding a flap over the handle to keep it covered too, and even left it open in the middle so I could run a rope through the handle.
We really appreciate our sun shades, so good job making those!
Thanks for all your videos! We'll look forward to seeing you next week.
=) Rebecca
SV Fun Between the Sheets
#fbtssailing
Mads, please fix that gap under the grab post at the nav station! It makes me crazy!🤣🤣🤣
me too, lol
With the markup on marine products, you might look into anti-chafing material made for hydraulic hoses.
Old fire hose maybe
When it comes to mounting objects like remotes, I always suggest using 3M Dual Core fasteners. It is a very strong plastic similar to velcro. I have used it for years even on my scuba gear. Once it sticks it stays, and it takes a tool to separate.
Great episode guys! we have the same windless :)
I used Command Adhesive strips for a towel rail as did not want to drill into my shower wall still holding after 3 years. They are good for semi permeant attachment.
Great videos!! Marking anchor chain - reflective tent guy cord. It impossible to miss at night. Cheap and easy to replace too
Another fantastic week of work. Rock on!
velcro from 3M is the right fastening for technical components, used by yacht techies.
Love it when Ava is in the videos with a project! Her attitude is very inspiring.
Speaking of tape, I've recently discovered nano-tape. clear, double-sided, leaves no residue, holds SUPER strong, easy to remove, reusable. crazy stuff. anyways thank you for the content as always.
I've been watching your videos since you started your channel, and am so glad to see you out cruising with Ava now.
You might want to belay the loops of your new snubber through the center of the cleat, and then pass the loop around the ends. This will be much more secure so they can't fall off. The extra long loops you made accidentally are actually ideal for this. Here is how to do it:
ruclips.net/video/DQS7an5cyK8/видео.html
The good part of the larger loops is it will be simple and fast to get them on during the initial excitement of dealing with a mooring procedure, and then you can come back once everything is secure and switch to the through-the-cleat method Ron suggested.
Ah, Cherbourg, memories....
You know you can anchor just outside the marinawall... for free.
(well, in 2019 you could)
Just put an up / down switch in the cockpit then you can operate the windlass singlehanded from the cockpit while manoeuvring the boat just in case the wireless version stops working.
Thank you for today's video Mads and Ava. The jerry can covers are going to look classy when they are done. I like the deep blue. Your 'garage' looks better than mine does at the moment but I'm sure yours will look much spiffier in short order. The care and have a productive week ahead.
Watch out for the anchor swivel.. you should put a shackle between anchor and swivel! otherwise It might split up on lateral loads.
Just found your channel and subscribed, know absolutely nothing about sailing but find your films fascinating, thanks very much 👍 Glyn 🇬🇧
Mads, long ago I made a neoprene cover to protect my VHF. If you do the same thing, just a slipcover to put the remote conttol in, it should keep it floating and drop protect it. Neoprene is easy to sew, ask any dive shop.
Thanks again. Stay safe and we'll see you next week.
I was wondering if you had disconnected the smoke sensor while using the electric element cutter.....lol..I hope so..that was a lot of smoke and if no alarm went off, I would be worried...lol....great video, just you make things look so darn easy...lol...see you.....next week...John
Mads, you should be time-lapsing your waterline as you bring more doohickeys onboard! :P Love the channel, been watching since Obelix! Ava is doing great. Be happy.
Mads, you could always sew leather wraps around the bridle rope - it's what they would have done before fancy carbon fiber cloth came along!
He could also use his heat cutter to slice the cloth lengthwise and wrap it around as though it were leather. Then he wouldn't have to return it! :)
Make a wrist lanyard for the wireless windlass remote. Add a sponge type floatation device to the lanyard so that if you drop it overboard you will not need to dive to try and recover the device…. A waterproof heavy gauge plastic bag to protect the device would not be a bad idea too if it is not already waterproof.
Mads, could you put the loop on you splice under the cleat, between the mounting posts before looping around the horns so to better keep it in place? ( I hope that is understandable)
I'm enjoying your real life/real time projects! 🙂
Rope can stretch , should always seize the rope around the thimble.
And that rope is SUPPOSED to stretch.
How were the Candy Apples? Oh..Ya.. Another good show. As others have suggested velcro for the wired and remote controls. Use a nice size strip for the mounting location and a small strip on the devices.
Hi Guys! Amazing! I just realized that I am moored just opposite to you in Cherbourg . Greetings from SV BLUE OWL!
Try to get some used firehose for chafe. It lasts the longest and is the cheapest, even free if you ask at the fire stations around you. I tried many bridles but actually now use a single snubber with a rolling hitch. Cheap, quick, and easy. Don't bother with bridle anymore, as it rubs against our bobstay. Also consider not putting in eye splices on the cleat end, as this prevents you from adjusting them under load easily.
Another great video. I hope you both have a fantastic 100th day of the year (it also my 57 birthday). Love tasks today. Your Sailrite sewing machine has more then paid for its self. The best sunshades I have seen in South Florida are made with similar material. You may want think about adding a couple cords or tape down the long runs to help sagging and rippling during breezes. Have a spiffy day. (Love that word)
6:29 that's a 10 out of 10 on the yikes scale. Hope you did the other canvas outside.
It's fine if you hold your breath
Happy jappy. Ælsker Sail Life
See you👍🏽
things are coming along nicely thanks for the update and have a great week ahead see you on the next video
Love the videos. Warm weather is coming.
Just mark your chain with different colours every 10 meters and save yourself some money and never have any counter issues!
Add you a wrist lanyard to your remote for windlass
Like door handles to heads doors we need a racing strip on the boat, love the videos and you both, but we need to break up the white
Another great video Mads and Ava .
Try pushing the eye through the center hole of the cleat and then around the horns. ⛵️
Maybe adding some bungee chord in the bottom steam would help keep the cover on the jerry can.
great video always ma fav show to watch
I always enjoy your videos!
Hi, great video's. Are you worried about all of your electronics in a salt water enviorment. What is your protection from lighting. Keep the video coming.
Thankyou both once again for a great video
Double sided tape+aluminum fence ties can make for a decently sturdy thing in a house. (Dunno about on a boat). 8-bit guy has a video where he talks about doing it.
Hi, nice work, carry on and STAY CALM .
Now I know why they call them ships. Looks like you've shipped the whole boat a piece at a time.
INSTEAD OF DOUBLE SIDED TAPE USE INDUSTRIAL VELCO IN YOUR FAVORITE COLOR. THAT WAY IF YOU DECIDE TO MOVE LOCATION IT IS MUCH EASIER.
great DYI and videos
One should never hammer a magnet! That will transform it from a magnet back to a simple piece of iron. (rare Earth magnets are not as much of an issue)
Heat will accomplish that too.
Many thanks for sharing this video
If I could, I would wish you what, in the U.S., is considered a traditional picnic tablecloth. Fuzzy on one side, to protect that gorgeous table you work on, slick vinyl on the other. While working on that table, you made me cringe a bit. I have found it almost impossible to splice 8-strand; nice job!
Firstly I've enjoyed your whole series, that boat is lucky to have you two! Just A thought Athena is a kool name but whutta' bout' calling her the "P D SPIFY",,,, seven letters/good ju-ju,,,,
You can use a piece of soap as a marker for dark color fabrique
Great work, as always!
Crickey you’ve got a great lady there mate!
bubbly and fun
It was spectacular to see Mads bathed in smoke, but... holy crap man! Wear a mask!
You should get a 3D printer, that way you would be able to make all the mounts and doohickeys you need.. or build a foldable easy storable 3d printer... 🙂
I almost came first this time. Thanks for sharing! Viele Grüße Alex
Regarding the windlass, the 3% voltage drop is a vestige of the Lead acid word designed to prevent additional voltage drop added to the already large drop at the batteries. 10% is well within safety and the LI batteries drop very little and have a high resting voltage anyway. It is wierd that this is not more known. Maybe the wire mfg are blocking this information LOL
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! :D
Looks like you have enough anti chafe that you could just cut another similar sized length, open them up and sew together. It might be fugly - but it'll get you through.
I was wondering about the use of a Hall effect sensor in such a simple device. However, the sensor for the transition of the magnet is probably a reed contact. That works similar to a relay contact, except the magnetic field is not produced by a coil, but by the proximity of the magnet in the gypsy.
Hall effect sensors are used everywhere you will be pretty hard to find a reed switch anymore especially in devices like that since even in a slow situation the high amount of cycling would mean a very short lifespan and a hall effect is basically a solid state reed switch
I see you have a swivel connected to the anchor shank. Any issues with side loading and what swivel did you use please
always good thanks
Hello! I am new to your channel, and thank for your good pointers. I was searching for more info on the installation of the magnet and sensor for the Thetis 7003 I just purchased. The info from Lofrans is a the very best « poor » from a customer oriented philosophy I happen to have. Anyway, you mentioned the alternative method of mounting the sensor and led me to believe there was actually a special part available from Lofrans. I would like to know if this is the case and in that case would you have a reference for purchasing one (part number?) for a Lofrans Tigres windlass, it would be most appreciated (if not I will design one attached to the chain stripper’s bolts)? I totally agree with your in saying the plastic tube is a «flimsy » approach.
On another note I also agree with at least two other followers regarding the snubber loops. I would not make Any loop to maintain the ability to remove the snubber under emergency conditions without having to strain the windlass motor unnecessarily. Thank you in advance for your response.
I'd whip the line just below the thimble to make it as tight as possible. Maybe on the MKII?
For the canvas alternation to access the handles - why not add a slit on both sides equal in length to the handle? When you grab in the fabric would just adjust to for your grip
Why the need to grip anyway? If they are to be used, the covers should be off so they don't get spoiled by diesel.
All I have been able to find is the plastic magnet holder, where did you find the other holder? Thank you for any info