Many people confused by the L/R setting. Think of it this way: with the driver the right way up for undoing a screw on top of something, turn the HANDLE in the direction you want the stuck screw to turn. I adjust mine by taking off the bit holder and pushing the square drive firmly against the heel of my hand. When the spring is depressed, I turn the handle anticlockwise (US = counter clockwise) if I am going to loosen a standard threaded bolt. Most of the time, you can leave it on this setting. Only switch it to the other setting (hold the square drive steady and push and turn the handle to the right) on those rare occasions when you need to loosen a fitting with a left hand thread (counter clockwise to loosen).
I would like to add one suggestion for beginners: If for example, you are trying to remove a phillips head screw, take the phillips head bits out and insert each one into that screw using only your fingers to find the bit that best fits the screw. You always want the bit to match the screw and fit it snugly, but it's particularly important when using an impact driver. Once you know the bit fits right, insert it into the impact driver and proceed
I like the bag of depends in the background. That's when you know you are a serious mechanic that you focus on a job so hard there are no times for breaks. Just focus on your flow.
Impact drivers are a must have for anyone even a DWI'er like me. I have my very special brand of impact driver which is an H.K.Porter. They were made in Boston/ Somerville plant up to 1988. My dad was one of the machinists that made them.
Great review and explaination. An Impact driver is indeed a must have "specialty" tool. Most people won't use it often, but when it is needed, there is no substitute. One caution: bit quality. Since so many tools today are made outside of the USA, component quality at times is questionable. Most notably in a tool such as this is in the bit quality. I have broken several bits because the tips were made using inferior metallurgy. If you can find replacements that are made in the US, buy them. They are not very expensive, are worth every cent, and will help to reduce frustration when inferior quality extends the length of your project. Another item worth considering when working with stubborn hardware is a good penetrating oil. While there are many out there, the one I find to be the best is the brand KROIL (I also like Corrosion-X). It is available in a simple dispensing can or in an aerosol can (dubbed Aero-Kroil). Perhaps you might consider doing another video showing the benefits of using a penetrating oil vs. no oil at all on rusty, stuck hardware.
I was always taught to twist a half turn against way you want it to go then hit it it gives a little more turn good video very not well known to but well worth its money 👍
Tool just arrived and I am checking it and watching your video. I cannot get it to change from left to right. Any tricks? Pull or push the ring close to the tool end?
This one is the better version due to the fact it has a square drive that can be used with sockets. Much mmch more versatile than the ones that only do phillps and flat head.
I have this tool, but for some reason, I have to set it to “right” to loosen a fastener. I tested this on a screw in wood. Shouldn’t it be turned to “left” to loosen?
@@decentgarage I figured it out. Yes, turning the chuck to the right loosens. In actuality, you hold the chuck and turn the chrome handle to the left to loosen, which is the same as turning the chuck to the right.
@@decentgarage Thanks for your super-quick reply! I thought this kind of tool was only for loosening. How do you set it to tighten a screw instead? I couldn't get it to "click", like I thought it would do, to turn in the opposite direction.
@@MattPostiff Not so much for tightening a screw, but for undoing a screw with a left hand thread (clockwise to undo). You find left hand threads on quite a few things where the direction of rotation of a component might contribute to a normal right handed bolt loosening.
Does this have a spring action to it I have seen a all black version that a mechanic used and It was rather springy and had a button to set it to forward or reverse. It is a bit smaller and a bit more expensive. As long as this one has that spring action to it it should work well.
Really! I thought you have to load the spring first before you can whack it. Remember! you can make it to turn left or right for what you need' Thanks! Make sure I got it right or you got it right??????
Indeed a great tool, I have one! But not the bit...:( I guess I'll run to Harbor Freight. So where is my problem? Those two pesky counter sunk screws on, in my case, a Honda CRV front rotor. And wouldn't you know it, the very last one.... This electrician stopped by to jog my memory. Thanks so much!
I just wrestled with those screws on my gal's civic yesterday, that's why I'm researching these today. I wound up drilling them out, 3 or 4 were fused tight.
@@decentgarage Ok. thx! Seems to be a very versatile tool to have around. wonder if it could help loosen unstuck my honda crankpulley bolt. once loosen, my regular impact gun can do the rest 😁
Your using the wrong type of hammer, also you want to hold firm with a slight twist in the direction u intend to go. U HAVE to hit it with enough weight to overcome the strong spring. No little taps, the tool doesn't work like that.
@@decentgarage Some drivers can be adjusted to either LOOSEN or TIGHTEN a screw. How to go about adjusting the tool for each one of these functions I think you will agree is absolutely CRUCIAL. You say nothing on this.
I was kinda hoping to see how to use this tool - nothing about the rotation? I know it says in the box (kind of) but I was really hoping for a tooltip of "how" to use it here, not a why I might need it. Anyway - I have one, it is useless - didn't unstick a basic Phillips head on a moto side cover - waste of $20 - maybe a decent one will work better. It's in the garbage now.
Try a good penetrating oil first when you belive a screw or bolt may be difficult to remove. Spray or bathe the screw and then let it sit for a few minutes (or hours or days, depending on the level of rust/corrosion). Then spray it again and wait. Repeat this cycle several times until the oil has penetrated into the interface. Then try removing the screw again. A really good penetrating oil is called KROIL. An aerosol version is called Aero-Kroil. It comes in an orange can and it works great!
I love the concept, but mine just doesn't work. I have studied the problem carefully and I still don't understand why, but it just does not work for me. As a test, it won't even back a drywall screw out of a 2x4.
Comment below 👇 What other tools are you interested in learning more about?
Reading a Vernier caliper.
@@johntrauger68 great idea!
@@decentgarage Do you have a video on how to change u-joints? I've old schooled it with sockets and a good hammer in the past for lack of a press.
@@johntrauger68 i do not. Once i need to do mine I'll make a video. Sorry
Many people confused by the L/R setting. Think of it this way: with the driver the right way up for undoing a screw on top of something, turn the HANDLE in the direction you want the stuck screw to turn. I adjust mine by taking off the bit holder and pushing the square drive firmly against the heel of my hand. When the spring is depressed, I turn the handle anticlockwise (US = counter clockwise) if I am going to loosen a standard threaded bolt. Most of the time, you can leave it on this setting. Only switch it to the other setting (hold the square drive steady and push and turn the handle to the right) on those rare occasions when you need to loosen a fitting with a left hand thread (counter clockwise to loosen).
I would like to add one suggestion for beginners: If for example, you are trying to remove a phillips head screw, take the phillips head bits out and insert each one into that screw using only your fingers to find the bit that best fits the screw. You always want the bit to match the screw and fit it snugly, but it's particularly important when using an impact driver. Once you know the bit fits right, insert it into the impact driver and proceed
Great tip!
Thanks for tip man. No more striped screws ❤
I like the bag of depends in the background. That's when you know you are a serious mechanic that you focus on a job so hard there are no times for breaks. Just focus on your flow.
Impact drivers are a must have for anyone even a DWI'er like me. I have my very special brand of impact driver which is an H.K.Porter. They were made in Boston/ Somerville plant up to 1988. My dad was one of the machinists that made them.
That's awesome! Are those still available? I'd love to find one
What are the L (left) and R (right) markings for on the bit? To loosen, do you turn the silver body to L? Two videos and no one covered that.
Yes, to loosen put in on L (left hand drive)
it's a handy tool to have, will also work with sockets.
Yep, great tool to have around.
Great review and explaination. An Impact driver is indeed a must have "specialty" tool. Most people won't use it often, but when it is needed, there is no substitute. One caution: bit quality. Since so many tools today are made outside of the USA, component quality at times is questionable. Most notably in a tool such as this is in the bit quality. I have broken several bits because the tips were made using inferior metallurgy. If you can find replacements that are made in the US, buy them. They are not very expensive, are worth every cent, and will help to reduce frustration when inferior quality extends the length of your project.
Another item worth considering when working with stubborn hardware is a good penetrating oil. While there are many out there, the one I find to be the best is the brand KROIL (I also like Corrosion-X). It is available in a simple dispensing can or in an aerosol can (dubbed Aero-Kroil). Perhaps you might consider doing another video showing the benefits of using a penetrating oil vs. no oil at all on rusty, stuck hardware.
Great point. My bits have held up fine but if they don't i will be replacing them with nice made in the USA bits.
And wherever they are made, wear your safety glasses!
I was always taught to twist a half turn against way you want it to go then hit it it gives a little more turn good video very not well known to but well worth its money 👍
Good recommendation. I will try that.
Tool just arrived and I am checking it and watching your video. I cannot get it to change from left to right. Any tricks? Pull or push the ring close to the tool end?
Quick dumb question...left on this is loosening the screw and right is tightening? I assume it is the same direction, but it doesn't say.
That is correct
This one is the better version due to the fact it has a square drive that can be used with sockets. Much mmch more versatile than the ones that only do phillps and flat head.
I have this tool, but for some reason, I have to set it to “right” to loosen a fastener. I tested this on a screw in wood. Shouldn’t it be turned to “left” to loosen?
That's strange. Should be the opposite
@@decentgarage I figured it out. Yes, turning the chuck to the right loosens. In actuality, you hold the chuck and turn the chrome handle to the left to loosen, which is the same as turning the chuck to the right.
@@davidstepeck2644 haha that makes sense!
I wonder what the R L labeling on the black part of this tool means.
It's referring to the rotation of the bit. Tightening vs. Loosening
@@decentgarage Thanks for your super-quick reply! I thought this kind of tool was only for loosening. How do you set it to tighten a screw instead? I couldn't get it to "click", like I thought it would do, to turn in the opposite direction.
@@MattPostiff it's as simple as twisting the driver tip and you will fell it engage almost like switching a ratchet.
@@MattPostiff Not so much for tightening a screw, but for undoing a screw with a left hand thread (clockwise to undo). You find left hand threads on quite a few things where the direction of rotation of a component might contribute to a normal right handed bolt loosening.
Love this quick tip series!
More to come!
How to set to L or R?
Thanks
Does this have a spring action to it I have seen a all black version that a mechanic used and It was rather springy and had a button to set it to forward or reverse. It is a bit smaller and a bit more expensive. As long as this one has that spring action to it it should work well.
Thank you. So a hard hit is better to loose the screw? Thanks
Yes, it takes a nice hard whack to get it to work
I did it and worked great
@@FranciscoGalicia glad to hear 👍
Great job with your videos. I would be interested in a segment on battery powered ratchets. Thanks!
Great idea. I'll do that for sure. My battery powered ratchet is literally my favorite tool in the tool box.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I spent an hour trying to loosen a rotor retaining bolt that isn’t rusted. Yes, I turned the device to L.
No go!
How hard did you hit it? Gotta give it a really good whack
Really! I thought you have to load the spring first before you can whack it. Remember! you can make it to turn left or right for what you need' Thanks! Make sure I got it right or you got it right??????
Awesome Tutorial
Glad you think so!
Gracias.
No hay de que!
How to maintenance o disassembly
?
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
how would this go with removing a allen screw which has Loctite?
Heat 🔥
Indeed a great tool, I have one! But not the bit...:( I guess I'll run to Harbor Freight.
So where is my problem? Those two pesky counter sunk screws on, in my case, a Honda CRV front rotor. And wouldn't you know it, the very last one....
This electrician stopped by to jog my memory. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful
I just wrestled with those screws on my gal's civic yesterday, that's why I'm researching these today. I wound up drilling them out, 3 or 4 were fused tight.
@@Meppen1
The impact driver I bought worked great then and since.
$10
Can this be used to break frozen stuck bolts nuts....
Yes, this would likely work well for that too
@@decentgarage Ok. thx! Seems to be a very versatile tool to have around. wonder if it could help loosen unstuck my honda crankpulley bolt. once loosen, my regular impact gun can do the rest 😁
@@MrAcc45 i bet it would. That's what I use this for. Break stuff free and then use a different tool to finish the job
@@decentgarage Excellent idea.. diyer's should use this instead of spending a lot of expensive impacts.
Your using the wrong type of hammer, also you want to hold firm with a slight twist in the direction u intend to go. U HAVE to hit it with enough weight to overcome the strong spring. No little taps, the tool doesn't work like that.
You have said it ALL mate except HOW TO BLOODY USE the damn thing!!!!!!
Hit it with a hammer 🔨
Hit it with a hammer 🔨
@@decentgarage Some drivers can be adjusted to either LOOSEN or TIGHTEN a screw. How to go about adjusting the tool for each one of these functions I think you will agree is absolutely CRUCIAL. You say nothing on this.
I was kinda hoping to see how to use this tool - nothing about the rotation? I know it says in the box (kind of) but I was really hoping for a tooltip of "how" to use it here, not a why I might need it. Anyway - I have one, it is useless - didn't unstick a basic Phillips head on a moto side cover - waste of $20 - maybe a decent one will work better. It's in the garbage now.
Try a good penetrating oil first when you belive a screw or bolt may be difficult to remove. Spray or bathe the screw and then let it sit for a few minutes (or hours or days, depending on the level of rust/corrosion). Then spray it again and wait. Repeat this cycle several times until the oil has penetrated into the interface. Then try removing the screw again. A really good penetrating oil is called KROIL. An aerosol version is called Aero-Kroil. It comes in an orange can and it works great!
And use some anti-seize compound when reassembling.
I love the concept, but mine just doesn't work. I have studied the problem carefully and I still don't understand why, but it just does not work for me. As a test, it won't even back a drywall screw out of a 2x4.
Magkano Yan?
Yes?
👎👎CC👎👎