Pro cabinet makers don’t want you to know how to do this
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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I have a friend that owns a cabinet shop. He uses 1/2" thick material for his panels in order to make a door that feels more solid. He cuts the same 1/4" dado in the rails and stiles then cuts a rabbit in the edges of the panel to fit, the extra panel thickness essentially makes the panels flush out with the back faces of the rails and stiles.
I really like using a thicker panel as well when possible. Definitely a different feel.
That’s what I did. The doors are beefier, and look flush on the inside.
You're a good teacher - very clear and articulate, easy to understand and detail oriented.
I'm building my own home, the shell is almost done. I plan on making all my own cabinets and although i have made shaker style doors before this is the best tutorial I have ever seen and will follow Brent's method in the future, I just added the adjustable router bit to my Amazon cart. Thank you for your excellent videos.
Glad you found it helpful
A good tip for aligning the height of the bit for cutting the rail tenons:
Cut a piece of the panel material about 1 inch wide and put it in the groove of a stile. Use that as a gauge for the height by inserting it into the gap on bit. You should be able to spin the router bit and have it drag on that material both top and bottom. That way you don't have to eyeball the grove vs the gap on the bit. It either fits or it doesn't.
By the way, love the videos, keep em coming!
I just finished making 40+ doors for my kitchen remodel using the Freud adjustable router bit set with an inside bevel (99-762). I used poplar for the rail/stiles, 1/2" plywood for the panels and will paint them. They came out perfectly and could not be more pleased. A coping sled is critical for making the rails IMHO, especially with most router table fences and I always cut them first... less tear-out. I prefer 1/2" plywood for the panels and trim the edge on the table saw to fit the grove. 1/2" provides way more "beef" for the door over 1/4".
The only pain point was almost each and every cabinet had different dimensions. I came up with a spreadsheet where you enter the raw opening, the standard overhangs (mostly hinge type dependent), any optional/additional overhang desired (to match up the door gaps better), the router bit's tongue depth and the stock size. It provided accurate total stock lengths needed and rail, stile & panel cut lists that made it super easy, as well as a finished door size to check against the cabinet before you make them.
BTW... happy to share it with anyone, but YT does not allow replies with links anymore. 😒
Great additional comments. I was thinking the same idea for a spreadsheet... Which is also a strong argument for going metric.
I made a very similar spreadsheet as well! Only way my mind could track 40+ doors. Nice even for a few.
I switched to metric because of Jason. Soooo much simpler.
Yes. I was making my doors about the same time you posted this video. Just seeing it now. I used a coping sled to reduce degrees of freedom and make coping the rails less stressful. I used the Freud bit set and made my doors from hard white maple. My “1/4-inch” plywood fit perfectly in the stock Freud set’s spacing. I broke the edges before assembly with a block plane and a sanding block. Good video. Very straightforward.
One fine point: routing with this bit set is probably only feasible with a stout router lift. I can adjust my JessEm to 0.002”.
Best tutorial for shaker doors I’ve seen yet. Would be cool if install was part 2.
I have a few videos on door install and a few to come
Lovely clear explication, as always.I tend to cheat a bit on sizing the panel: put the frame together, slip a metre long steel ruler into the groove on one end or side & eyeball/ guesstimate the panel size from there.Keeps things a bit more interesting!
another impeccably timed video Jason! my wife wants to update our doors to the shaker style and i've had the Freud router bit set sitting around for over a year. this video explains how to utilize them perfectly. i'm feeling pretty confident now.....nothing to it but to do it! cheers
Great vid. Couple of suggestions:
1) if one starts by cutting the tenon in the scrap piece first, you can use the tenon itself to easily set up the mortise and get it absolutely perfect. No need for so much measuring and no need for two separate scrap pieces.
2) for better consistency and cleaner cuts on the tenon, one can buy boards at least double the needed width, cut the tenons first, and then rip to size. (The drawback of this is a little extra sanding or planing on the cut edge to remove saw marks). Another time saver is to pre-cut the mortises on full length boards before cutting to length.
3) when measuring the panel, there’s no need at all to measure the outside dimension of the door and then subtract the rail width. Simply dry fit the stiles and rails and measure the INSIDE length, then add the groove depth (x2).
4) unless the panel is MDF, it’s good to leave 2-3mm clearance on all sides to account for wood expansion, and the panel should never be glued.
Yup.
I run a rebate on the panel to fit the panel to fit the groove, way easier than all this measuring
Another great tutorial to make my morning coffee taste that much better. A proper setup always ensures you don’t mess up & determines how your final product ends up.
Great to hear!
A most perfect explanation and demonstrationn about making shaker doors using tools materials & machinery. No need to ask questions..GREAT TEACHER !
I just wasted $140 in poplar trying to build shaker doors using the table saw. Learned my lesson and I’m buying these router bits and never looking back.
Yeah, I tried long lengths of pine as that‘s what we get in the big stores here in NZ. Timber was as wonky as hell and the groove was in and out so a big problem and the whole doors never laid flat either. Ended up re-doing it in some finger jointed timber for the frames as it was far straighter. Will try a tounge and groove set for the next cabinets shortly. Stumpy nubs recommends using 1/2inch ply for the panels to add strength and keep them flat.
Like with the router bits - proper set up on the table saw is critical. Running test pieces & making small adjustments is critical.
I've made hundreds of shaker doors on my table saw & can get great results. But taking the time up front is critical.
You wasted $140 to find out that a router works better than a table saw for certain things😂😂😂😂😂. Hey , make sure you use a hammer to pound nails buddy
Spot on.
22:34 Little tip: sand those "inner corners" before assembly, there's less chance of catching panel plus you can easily access the entire length of the piece. Awesome video! I wasn't even aware of adjustable router bits. Thanks.
I am about to make some doors for the closet. So this video is really helpful :)
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing content. Would love to see your technique for doing micro shaker profiles. Most examples I’ve seen are slab doors on a CNC, so would be good to see alternative methods.
Great suggestion!
Great suggestion indeed
Great tutorial on the shaker door build. Going to use this method for sure
Glad you found it helpful
Great video. I have always pencil marked my good faces (GF) of the rail and style and placed the GF down on the router table when routing. This always made sure the rails and stiles always matched up. Again, love the adjustable router bits.
Thank you for the educational video. Continue following you from Qatar 👏🏻
Jason, great video. Will greatly help me improve my shaker doors. Thanks.
Glad you found it helpful
fantastic tutorial. Your videos have helped me to be much better at woodworking!
Glad to hear that
Great video. I’ve not made shaker doors on the router table yet. Door looks great.
Looks better now that you sprayed finish on it 😉
@@bentswoodworking RIGHT! Except that side that got smudged because my finger slipped when I was trying to be fancy spinning the lazy Susan. LOL. But we wont talk about that.
Great video Jason. I have 4 shaker doors to make this week.
Thanks buddy
Very nice!! I mark one side so even if the dado is slightly off centre they will always be flush as long as the marks are up
Man i just love you for using the metric system
I admire your ability to futz with router bit nuts and washers over that open router table cabinet, without dropping anything in; I can't do that. ;).
You got a new dust collector? Did I miss a video?
I noticed the same thing. I was looking to purchase the Harvey but something tells me he discovered some things he didn’t like about it and hasn’t disclosed it yet.
What happened with the dust collector change? Inquiring minds want to know…
Ya what's up? Looks like an Oneida unit painted black :)
NOTICED THAT MYSELF ACTUALLY WENT BACK TO SEE WHEN THIS VIDEO WAS MADE IS THERE A GOOD REASON OR A SPONSORSHIP ISSUE
Excellent video. I always do my cope cut first and then any tear out will be removed on the stick cut.
I have to agree with Paulgreene9997. You are an outstanding teacher. You are very articulate on every detail that even a novice woodworker can follow you. Keep up the great work.
Brilliant tutorial, thank you
I was pretty confused at about 9 minutes where you checked the fit but after you had taken off some extra by lowering the bit. I.e., your groove was thicker than it would have been if you had run a fresh piece of wood through the router at the new setting. Also, at about 22 minutes, I notice you didn't check the diagonals for squareness; were you confident enough because of the perfect fit of the panel?
Good stuff!
I love your videos. The only one that hopelessly confused me is the LR32 one!
Well I guess that means I need to do another one. Lol
Very professional video. Hate when they add clips from comedy or act like idiots. 👍👍👍
Cool video, is it not easier just to do lose tenon rather than cutting with the second router cutter? Peter millard has a video where he shows making shaker style doors.
He cuts tenons from the panel material waste and routers the styles on edges
Great video! I noticed you ditched the G700. I’m curious why you opted for one much louder? Cheers, Jason!
Very timely build. My son just built a couple of bookcases and wants to put doors on bottom couple of shelves. This tutorial will certainly help when we go to make the doors. He built the bookcases onto the walls, so their not perfectly square. Any tips on how to hang doors in an opening that isn't perfectly square?
If they are overlay, it’s easier to manipulate a box out of square
When using a bit set that has a profile, like a bead or ogee, cutting the tenon ends first eliminates tear-out in the corners.
Thanks Jason. I appreciate your thoroughness. fyi, the link for the set up blocks is for an imperial set and I don't see that Igauging has a metric set at this time
How much larger are the doors than the opening in the cabinet? Is there a standard?
I was really confused about the adjustability of the grove cutter until I looked it up on Amazon... TWO cutters. Clever. Sort of a baby dado stack 😂.
These aren't cheap, though. But a definite time saver, and once dialled in, you can run as many cabinet doors as you need through them... Thanks for the video and food for thought 😊
Bigger door is still a table saw thing, though. Max grove size on that Freud cutter is just over 9mm...
On a separate note - you don't re-enforce the corners , do you? Are those four roughly 2" tongues going to hold it together? I know the panels aren't supposed to be glued in. But it's tempting...😂 A couple of dowels in each corner?
Awhile back you spoke up about Famag? (Spell) Forstner bits and or Brad Point Twist Bits. Do you still feel as solid with these bits now as you were then? I am ready to buy small sets. I have been considering Black Shark Forstner Bits then move over to Owl Brad Point Twist bits. Your opinion matters. I drill holes with hand held corded as well as cordless. I also now own a sweet Oliver Bench Top Drill Press. Looking for your up to date opinion. These will be lifetime bits because somehow I got old. Thank You Much. Thom Schuck, Portland, Oregon.
Absolutely I do. I can’t imagine needing anything else. I have been considering getting an imperial bit set and when I do it will certainly be FAMAG if they make it
Hey Jason great video as always!! Where can I get the little black hole covers you have on your mft table?
Check out badyorkieworkshop on Instagram
Bent, where did you get the plugs for your MFT.
Nice instruction and I’m use to building shaker style doors on the table saw, but getting a router table soon. My question relates to the Incra router table. How do you like it? Do you like the stand or if starting over would you build your own? I’m down to this router table and the Jessem ultimate excell II and leaning towards the Incra.
I have a CT 26 dust collector - my issue is, when I travel to jobs with it, dust spills out of the port and makes a mess. My other dust collector has a flap to prevent that.
Stumpy Nubs recommends using 12mm material with a rebate all 4 sides which fit into the stiles and rails, instead of using thin mdf. What say you?
Your videos are excellent. This one is way too complicated. I run a cabinet shop and we make shakers completely on the table saw. The cleanest slot you can make (and adjust if you don’t just rebate the panel) is using a dado stack. Zero chip out especially on maple.
What size router are you using?
You got to use your storage cart, I mean router table 😂
Finally 🤣
nice
I use a folding ruler to measure inside the grooves for the panel. No math required.
Can this be done with a handheld router, if you don’t have a table?
No,
Router height issue here, I have Bosch 2.25ho router in a Rockler lift. When making rails and stiles I have the bit eventually starts to drop ever so slightly. Found out the hard way the first time and now it’s a constant checking and adjusting. Reread the lift instructions but still have a slight issue with this. Anyone have any suggestions?
Sooooooooo….. not that it matters but are those fake bench dog holes on the mft’s???
Couldn't you just remove one of the stiles and the measure inside rail tongue to inside of rail tongue to get your length? No math calculations at all.
I spent the last twenty years of a fourty year carrear in carpentry owning and working a small cabinet shop. In that capacity i got to know a lot of my competition. I never heard one of them talk about keeping some sort of joinery technique restricted from the public. When amateur RUclips woodworkers like yourself try to impune an entire catigory of professionals with such ridiculously false claims it makes my stomach clench. You have know idea what pro cabinet makers think about the subject. And you are just making that statement to draw attention to your videos at the expense of the pros you cast doubt on. Now I'm going to speak for the pros. In general. We just don't have time to engage in that kind of thinking. We are to busy running our businesses to worry amateurs finding out how we build style and rail doors. In the industry door and drawer face making is a separate specialty. When my shop got to the point where we were making and installing a kitchen a week, I outsourced all my door and drawer making, and concentrated on making the carcasses and installations. So let's be real you don't have a clue what the pros are thinking so be straight with your audience and stop spreading rumors about the industry you really don't any first hand experience with. 👎👎👎
Хорошо, но был бы перевод на русский