Excellent. I see you put white upvc trunking over the pipes. Many installations just leave ugly black insulated industrial looking pipework. So much neater with trunking. A terrace with neighbours ether side helps with heat loss. I used to live in a victorian terrace house and next door had a wood burning stove. The party wall was lovely and toasty in winter.
Nicely done job 🙌 and this is great advice for new installers. I was just having a discussion yesterday with another installer about still giving control in bedrooms as every customer is different. Some good advice on using temp limiters due to lots of solar gain, a lot of properties I do have a huge amount of glass, so I’ll always add a volumiser.
Absolutely customers need some level of comfort control. We need to design for maximum efficiency and train the customer to use it that way, however if their needs and wants change they should have the option of further control. 👍
Adam, really enjoyed that video, in fact I appreciate all of your channel content. A few questions if I may: 1. This is a relatively low heat loss property can you talk about the pipe sizing used in this case, especially as this was a virgin central heating system? 2. Can you explain what you mean by ‘piped direct’? Look forward to the follow up.😀👍
Hey! Nicely tucked in and compact system! Wind is a pain when filming. Sometimes I find that my audio gets ”destroyed” by wind and then I often use some B-roll video and add some voice-over instead. Best regards Nils
@@NilsKall ahh man, you know I forgot to turn my microphone on when I was outside. The audio is from the camera 😢 The DJI microphone with muffler is normally perfect. Lesson learned. 🙂
Hi, personally I do a risk assessment and decide if antifreeze protection is required. If it is, I would use Glycol, my reason being that antifreeze valves protect the heat pump by dropping system pressure, this then renders the unit useless until it is re pressurised and re set. Meanwhile your house has no heat during freezing conditions leaving your entire hot/cold water system at risk of freezing. The most likely time this situation would arise is if the property is un occupied say the customer is on holiday. Leaving no one there to re set the unit. Glycol is the only 100% protection against freezing, that being said I understand it lowers the specific heat capacity of water meaning a further upsizing of emitters and pipework. In summery, either glycol or nothing. 🙂 Horses for courses as they say.
Thinking about a heat pump - I know you've specced this one at close to its maximum output at the design temp for efficiency, but in extreme cold weather what happens to the indoor temp (for an older lady living alone)? Is there a backup heater available?
Hi, I can’t talk specifics on this one for GDPR reasons. Heat pump installs can vary massively depending on multiple factors such as existing system suitability size of system etc etc. A property similar to the one shown here full price would be in the region of 10-14k less the government grant of £7500. So the customer would pay £3-6k themselves. The reality is once a house is heat pump ready as in the radiators pipework and tank are all suitable the unit itself won’t cost much more than a boiler to replace further down the line. 🙂
I keep hearing that heat pumps need to be on all the time, and you said this cusrtomer is doing that. We never have our heating on at night, does that mean a heat pump wouldn't suit us?
It depends on your reason. If you want cooler bedrooms at night, you can balance the system for that (less heat output in the bedrooms), and/or have a setback for reducing the temperature by a couple of degrees, and re-raising it a couple of hours before you wake. If you think it's cheaper to turn it off, then in most cases it's not. And it will cost more to reheat in the morning than just letting it maintain the temperature overnight. Which would generally be the case with a fully optimised condensing gas boiler central heating system as well.
You can run a heatnpump at a lower setting at night. Which still allows the fabric to retain its heated, also depends on individual builder fabric and how well they retain that heat, when the heating is switched off.
You can choose a lower set-point at night time if you prefer a cooler house at night. Ultimately you have total control over your house temperatures but running the heat pump continuously low and slow in most situations equate to lower bills. 🙂
@@Rowlysrenewableroadshow The reason we switch the heating off at night is partly habit, partly not wanting the noises asociated with central heating when we are trying to sleep, and wanting it cool. We have the living room at about 18 C in the evening when we are mostly just sitting around, but during the day when we are more active, the temperature can drop down to 16 with no ill effect. I hear people say it is cheaper to keep the heating on all the time, but I don't get that, it seems to go against basic physics. The higher the temperature difference between the inside and outside temperatures, the faster the heat loss. What am I missing there?
Really interested in how you work out the correct system volume for the heat pump, so many people have different ideas on how to do this.
Excellent. I see you put white upvc trunking over the pipes. Many installations just leave ugly black insulated industrial looking pipework. So much neater with trunking. A terrace with neighbours ether side helps with heat loss. I used to live in a victorian terrace house and next door had a wood burning stove. The party wall was lovely and toasty in winter.
Nicely done job 🙌 and this is great advice for new installers. I was just having a discussion yesterday with another installer about still giving control in bedrooms as every customer is different. Some good advice on using temp limiters due to lots of solar gain, a lot of properties I do have a huge amount of glass, so I’ll always add a volumiser.
Absolutely customers need some level of comfort control. We need to design for maximum efficiency and train the customer to use it that way, however if their needs and wants change they should have the option of further control. 👍
Adam, really enjoyed that video, in fact I appreciate all of your channel content. A few questions if I may:
1. This is a relatively low heat loss property can you talk about the pipe sizing used in this case, especially as this was a virgin central heating system?
2. Can you explain what you mean by ‘piped direct’?
Look forward to the follow up.😀👍
Hey! Nicely tucked in and compact system! Wind is a pain when filming. Sometimes I find that my audio gets ”destroyed” by wind and then I often use some B-roll video and add some voice-over instead. Best regards Nils
@@NilsKall ahh man, you know I forgot to turn my microphone on when I was outside. The audio is from the camera 😢 The DJI microphone with muffler is normally perfect. Lesson learned. 🙂
@@Rowlysrenewableroadshowahaa! Yes stuff like that happens..
Hey that’s a very nice little install. Can I ask if you used glycol in the system or an anti freeze valve on the pipework to the unit outside ?
Hi, personally I do a risk assessment and decide if antifreeze protection is required.
If it is, I would use Glycol, my reason being that antifreeze valves protect the heat pump by dropping system pressure, this then renders the unit useless until it is re pressurised and re set. Meanwhile your house has no heat during freezing conditions leaving your entire hot/cold water system at risk of freezing. The most likely time this situation would arise is if the property is un occupied say the customer is on holiday. Leaving no one there to re set the unit.
Glycol is the only 100% protection against freezing, that being said I understand it lowers the specific heat capacity of water meaning a further upsizing of emitters and pipework.
In summery, either glycol or nothing. 🙂
Horses for courses as they say.
4.7kw @ -3.7 deg. How do you work that out? I’m just getting 5kw @ 7deg from the data sheets
The data sheet says 4.8kw at -3.
Open loop all the way😊
Absolutely pal. 🙂
Thinking about a heat pump - I know you've specced this one at close to its maximum output at the design temp for efficiency, but in extreme cold weather what happens to the indoor temp (for an older lady living alone)? Is there a backup heater available?
Hi, yes there is backup heaters built in but she still has her gas fire if she needs supplementary heating. 🙂
What was the total cost?
Hi, I can’t talk specifics on this one for GDPR reasons.
Heat pump installs can vary massively depending on multiple factors such as existing system suitability size of system etc etc.
A property similar to the one shown here full price would be in the region of 10-14k less the government grant of £7500. So the customer would pay £3-6k themselves.
The reality is once a house is heat pump ready as in the radiators pipework and tank are all suitable the unit itself won’t cost much more than a boiler to replace further down the line. 🙂
I keep hearing that heat pumps need to be on all the time, and you said this cusrtomer is doing that. We never have our heating on at night, does that mean a heat pump wouldn't suit us?
It depends on your reason. If you want cooler bedrooms at night, you can balance the system for that (less heat output in the bedrooms), and/or have a setback for reducing the temperature by a couple of degrees, and re-raising it a couple of hours before you wake.
If you think it's cheaper to turn it off, then in most cases it's not. And it will cost more to reheat in the morning than just letting it maintain the temperature overnight. Which would generally be the case with a fully optimised condensing gas boiler central heating system as well.
You can run a heatnpump at a lower setting at night. Which still allows the fabric to retain its heated, also depends on individual builder fabric and how well they retain that heat, when the heating is switched off.
What was the cost?
You can choose a lower set-point at night time if you prefer a cooler house at night.
Ultimately you have total control over your house temperatures but running the heat pump continuously low and slow in most situations equate to lower bills.
🙂
@@Rowlysrenewableroadshow The reason we switch the heating off at night is partly habit, partly not wanting the noises asociated with central heating when we are trying to sleep, and wanting it cool. We have the living room at about 18 C in the evening when we are mostly just sitting around, but during the day when we are more active, the temperature can drop down to 16 with no ill effect. I hear people say it is cheaper to keep the heating on all the time, but I don't get that, it seems to go against basic physics. The higher the temperature difference between the inside and outside temperatures, the faster the heat loss. What am I missing there?
Get rid of the music, No Music when talking especially tech stuff
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Noted 👍👍🙂