Just put some thick washers so you don't run into the end of the threads..but you can replace that U bolt for $2 at home depot..the part that has the 3/8 drive is the only thing that matters
Hey bro get off those nutz and get you some case hardened grade 8 or 10. Then double up on them to lock them down so they wont damage the threads when you torque the tool. Should be fine just split those old ones off and clean up the threads. Looks like a good design tool but they need to use size like 1/2 or more.
Your right. I actually bought thr OEM Tools version a couple months after making this video and it works amazing. Ive done over 5 jobs and its still going strong
I used one, worked great in my case on a '95 T-bird, but in use the U-bolt deforms or bends just a hair, enough that the threaded ends get close enough to make easy insertion into saddle a PITA, but a short pipe and trip to the vise to spread them back a hair cures it. I collected both inner and outer tie rod ends and boots before taking the OEMs off as single units, I matched lengths, finished up, had 1/16" toe out. Steering wheel was centered though, so very easy adjustments and re-check fixed it all. 5/32" toe in now.
Tough one as for the DIY it's probably worth it but not the shop tool. Could be a case of over torquing thinking you needed more bite then you actually did. I purchased one on Amazon and will give it a shot and see how it goes. It was worth watch your review. Thanks.
Heck I use the Harbor freight 1/2 torque wrench for a Breaker bar..its was only $5 with a membership so cheaper than a breaker bar. I use a the good torque wrench for specs
Frankly any type of grab it thingy, an exhaust clamp that you roughed up, etc. That will give you enough stuff to grab with big vice grips or whatever and be able to turn and break loctite. You don't need any sort of ratchet except for convenience. Once you break the threads loose it is easy to spin the rod in or out. And it looks like this tool he bought is cheaply made. A throw away exhaust clamp seems more better
Thanks for the review and walk through on how to use it. Could you possibly just cut off that cheap u-bolt and replace it with one that's better quality ?
Did it have a brand? I see lots of no-name brand ones but also some from more recognizable brands on amazon. The cheapie no-name ones seem to have those washers, whereas the branded ones have a nut with a captive washer and serrated edges.
Send it back. I return from Ebay and Amozon all the time. It like a free tool rental. I only send back the poor quality stuff, I dont abuse the return policy.
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$14 dollar’s and it replaced both. That’s great
$14 one time use is still better than $200 from Mechanic shop
Just put some thick washers so you don't run into the end of the threads..but you can replace that U bolt for $2 at home depot..the part that has the 3/8 drive is the only thing that matters
Where would you find it at home depot?
I made a piece like that years ago to mount a vise in a trailer hitch receiver. Works great.
As long as it does the job then fair enough, can always buy another one if you ever need to repeat the job!
FYI I've used a similar tool from a different manufacturerr several years and I use a stout 3/8 impact
Watching this and that trailer hitch vise is where it's at!
Love your honesty. Thanks from the UK.England
Hey bro get off those nutz and get you some case hardened grade 8 or 10. Then double up on them to lock them down so they wont damage the threads when you torque the tool. Should be fine just split those old ones off and clean up the threads. Looks like a good design tool but they need to use size like 1/2 or more.
Your right. I actually bought thr OEM Tools version a couple months after making this video and it works amazing. Ive done over 5 jobs and its still going strong
Hey, brother. I bought the PT tools version from Advanced Auto, swapped out the old nuts for the grade 8, that I doubled up on.
I used one, worked great in my case on a '95 T-bird, but in use the U-bolt deforms or bends just a hair, enough that the threaded ends get close enough to make easy insertion into saddle a PITA, but a short pipe and trip to the vise to spread them back a hair cures it. I collected both inner and outer tie rod ends and boots before taking the OEMs off as single units, I matched lengths, finished up, had 1/16" toe out. Steering wheel was centered though, so very easy adjustments and re-check fixed it all. 5/32" toe in now.
Using grade 8 or 10 you might not have that problem.
Ebay tool in Amazon packaging? Nice :-)
Love that trailer hitch vice setup
Tough one as for the DIY it's probably worth it but not the shop tool. Could be a case of over torquing thinking you needed more bite then you actually did. I purchased one on Amazon and will give it a shot and see how it goes. It was worth watch your review. Thanks.
Could you replace that U-bolt with one from an exhaust clamp?
That would probably up the quality. Also the use of lock washers might help.
How many times do you replace inner tie rods? Perfect tool for the individual.
Great video, thanks for the visual operation of it.
good honest video post. Thanks barricade
Thank you for the info! Great Video
Heck I use the Harbor freight 1/2 torque wrench for a Breaker bar..its was only $5 with a membership so cheaper than a breaker bar. I use a the good torque wrench for specs
Frankly any type of grab it thingy, an exhaust clamp that you roughed up, etc. That will give you enough stuff to grab with big vice grips or whatever and be able to turn and break loctite. You don't need any sort of ratchet except for convenience. Once you break the threads loose it is easy to spin the rod in or out. And it looks like this tool he bought is cheaply made. A throw away exhaust clamp seems more better
Very helpful video. Thanks!
Thanks for the review and walk through on how to use it.
Could you possibly just cut off that cheap u-bolt and replace it with one that's better quality ?
Did it have a brand? I see lots of no-name brand ones but also some from more recognizable brands on amazon. The cheapie no-name ones seem to have those washers, whereas the branded ones have a nut with a captive washer and serrated edges.
If the threads are damaged might be able to die them. Good as new
Grease the threads before use, it wont last forever, but it will last a bit longer.
That’s tight ass hell how u got that vice. I got to look into that
Terrence Scott its a Wilton Hitch Vice. you can pick one up for around $140
Lol The quality suxs. You a got a thumbs up for that.
You could replace the damaged part with an exhaust clamp of the same size maybe
they make one now it work by pressure when you turn ratchet no bolts to tighten
Just buy another double threaded u-bolt from the hardware store it's not even 80 cents
it can extension 40mm?
i have replaced like 20 inner tie rods with that tool and no problem, it might be you way over tighten it
Is that pittsburgh breakerbar pretty strong?
Probably one time use
Wow...thanks man
thanks bro
Can you use this tool to tighten the new one when you put the new one on??
Yes
@@barricadegarage5361 Thanks!
What brand was that flex head rachet wrench?
K morris TEKTON WRN77164 Extra Long Flex-Head Ratcheting Box End Wrench
This video got me high 🔧
Too bad it failed, I like the idea of removing the inner and outer as an assembly.
+ManicMechanic007 yeah me too
@@barricadegarage5361 agreed. take both out as a unit
just re thread it
Yeah man, agreed. You get what you pay for in that case.
You can replace that U bolt ...
I just got another brand. It works great
Send it back. I return from Ebay and Amozon all the time. It like a free tool rental. I only send back the poor quality stuff, I dont abuse the return policy.
send it back
👍👍
It's Amazon not eBay
i accidentally bought an expensive/brand quality tool, i will return it and buy this cheap tool.