Washing Machine Diagnostic Test & Error Codes (Cabrio, Bravo, & Kenmore Oasis)
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- This applianceassist... Movie Shows How to enter the Diagnostic Mode and view Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, and Kenmore Oasis Washing Machine Error codes. Like F1, LD, and more! More Cabrio, Bravos, and Oasis Washer Repair and Troubleshooting Help Is Available At applianceassist...
For proper appliance repair training I recommend training.freds...
Wow.....such clear, simple instructions. Been fighting with my washer for a couple of days. Finally tripped over your video, and thought I'd give this a try. Used the information you provided to identify the problem (bad water pump). Luckily, you also had another video on how to replace my pump. Following your instructions to the letter. I just replaced the pump. I'M DOING LAUNDRY NOW!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
This diagnostic was a great gift!!!!! Performed this on my cabrio and got it to cycle through and corrected itself! Keep up the good posts! People really need them!
were you able to get it to do a diagnostic test like in the video?
Hello, great video! I did a diagnostic and came up with a f72. Any suggestions on what to do next? It will not spin at this point
Its nice he's coming back on a Sunday! Don't rake him over the coals to bad sounds like he wants to get it right... such is the nature of machines and repair and mistakes do happen. Did it work properly after he installed the new pump before he left?
Thanks for the great video, it helps a lot, so after the issue has been fixed how to reset those error code?
Thank you! Not all models have an error code reset for the memory. But on most of these after you’re done displaying all the error codes if you press and hold the same button until you hear a beep that may clear existing codes.
OHHHH MY GOD AFTER 3 HOURS IT WOKRED. YOUR VIDEO WAS LEGIT. I FIXED IT ❤❤❤❤❤ THANK YOUUUU. YES IM SHOUTING OF HAPPINESS 🙌🏽🤣🤣
Hahaha! Glad it helped! 😁
Thanks so much for teaching us how to fix the washing machine.. got jamed.. but it's c8 now.. let's hope it works again. Thanks so much.
I want to thank everyone who posts here for helping diagnose my machine codes. In replacing my discharge pump, I noticed I was getting water level change errors then after,only to find someone at my house had nearly turned the water off to the valves thus causing "lack of level change" errors. This may have been what was causing the clothes to entangle and so on which was another part of my original story. Stick to those codes folks. Your machine is talking to you.
What is your washer's model number and original problem? That step should be drain and slow spin... Do you hear the drain motor? is the water draining out of the washer okay? Is the outer basket spinning at all?
Thank you, I reset and it is actually is washing a load, the only problem now is the timer is going the different minutes for heavy, normal, medium, light minutes flashing (like it's changing the minutes 40,37,34, 31 and keeps decreasing in minutes as the load processes. So I'm waiting to see how long this load washes.
The drain pump should be on at C7 until the inner basket drops and is engaged on the basket hub + 10 seconds...Do you here the pump making any noise? if the pump is running and just not moving water it may be broken or clogged, you may also have a clog at the outer tub where the drain pump connects. however, if it is not being energized you would need to check if power is getting to the pump from the control's P4 connection.
Thanks so much for your help! I had a repairman look at it while I waited for your response and he felt like the rods needed replacing. I hope this includes your recommendations.
I have been getting an oL code on my washer. I did this diagnostic test and CO popped up and then it has C1 and started to run a cycle. And also had the add garment light on
Me too, any luck?
@@cool33onthescene ended up throwing it out
@@michaelb4456 tough smh
It's a little tricky on that style of washer. You have it right and it should work if the timing is correct. If it does not then you may have a board problem. Think of it as a safe combination but before you start the process clear the knob at least three full rotations to the left... then one click each: R - R - R - L - R with a very short pause between each move. If it works all the lights should turn on.
The faint click may be the relay in the board closing to energize the pump. You may want to double check the connections to the drain pump. To be sure you would need to measure for 120 Volts AC at the wires to the drain pump. I would start with that if there was a clog in the tub you should still hear the drain pump turn on.
The SD code is usually for suds or a long drain code. you may be able to get it to work by letting the suds turn back to liquid and then trying to drain/spin again. if that doesn't work you may have a problem with your drain pump, pressure switch or control... but probably the drain pump. hope that helps! Good luck!
Yasin Polat, I don't have the option to reply to your question... Not sure why but doesn't seem to be any way to comment here or on your page. Sorry. First try unplugging the washer for a few minutes to reset the control. But it sounds like the start button on your washer may be broken... Does the start button feel different from the others when you press it? If thats it, the console is an expensive part but you can get in there with some super glue or epoxy and carefully fix the plastic tab that is probably broken. Good luck!
If you are getting UL and the tub is balanced, the only posibility that I can think of is the control is not properly detecting the load. Probably want to run the diagnostics and see if you get any other codes. There may be a motor or RPS (rotor position sensor) problem.
I'm in the military my washer was in storage for over 3 1/2 years. I re-started and does not complete the wash cycle. Water fills no issues but does not wash; after a few attempts of washing goes to spin and at the end I get OL with a really small load. any suggestions??
Same here was you able to find out what was wrong with it
Anyone find out what this was?
Great! As far as clearing the stored codes on that model... I don't think so. As far as I can tell it keeps a full error log that cannot be cleared. If you find a way I would love to hear about it! Thanks for the comment!
Hi again and thanks for the great video. I ran the diagnostics, but the washer stalled at C7. Obviously, the drain pump is not working. I did the diagnostics test for pumps but it doesn't work. I had tested the pump with an outside source of power and it works fine. Do you think I need a new control board? Help please. Thanks
@xzqzq It takes a very long drain time to activate the LD and F32 error codes. So you probably do have a blockage somewhere. I usually use a Shopvac to suck out as much water as possible from inside the washer, then tip the washer back so you can get at the drain pump (unplug it first and be ready for a lot more water.) Partially remove the hose from the tub to the pump and get the water under control, then remove the pump and have a look inside. If it's clear, are all 4 fins intact?
Sorry for the delay in getting back with you on this question. So that I understand the problem, What do you mean by "it fills for a few seconds then goes to next step in cycle"? I don't quite understand. Thanks!
Could you please double check that model number? What country are you in? It probably means that the lid is unable to lock "Door lock" The F should be followed by something like 51 or 1 The top is held down by two spring clips at the front seem about 3 inches in from the sides... Press them in with a putty knife and lift. Hopefully you will be able to see the cause or you may need a new door latch or control board... Hopefully you find something blocking the lock from latching... Good luck!
That is the newer style of Cabrio that Whirlpool released after I created this movie. It is completely different mechanically and has kind of a tricky diagnostic mode. Take a look at the lid striker that is attached to the lid (the part the inserts into the lock.) The back of the strike is open and leaves the internal magnet exposed allowing it to swell with rust. When that happens the lock cannot close all the way so it will do what you are describing. If not email me through my website.
F51 is an RPS (Rotor position sensor) error. That is the sensor that detects motor movement. They like to do this error but the RPS is almost never the cause. Sometimes unplugging and reconnecting the connections to the sensor and the control board several times will clean of any corrosion that has built up and may be causing the communication error. I have a repair guide on my website, but accessing the lower RPS contacts is not very easy. Might be worth a service call if you trust a company.
@applianceassistant
Well, it has been taken apart - super easy to work on. A wash cloth and a piece of bra wire had lodged into the drain, and when the pump was removed a quarter fell out. Damage wise, two of the fins in the pump were broken, so I'm just going to buy a new one and save the old pump as a spare, just in case. Can you recommend any kind of "simple" method of flushing the drain pan of anymore trash without a tear-down?
I'm sorry to hear about that! I would turn it in as a loss to the insurance company... The control board is probably shorted out but even if you replaced that part all 3 motors would be damaged. Good luck!!!
On a Whirlpool Cabrio, if you get a 0L or a UL code. The bottom load sensor on the stator could be bad. Watch Cabrio videos on here for better details. The washer will usually stop with 3 minutes left and give error code.
oh yea/? I replaced that, bearings, seal, shaft and rods and stator doesnt have cracks im about to put it for trash, these washers SUCK!!!
F32 code
That is a calypso washer. id is probably LD for long drain. You may have a problem with the drain pump... fairly common problem on that washer type.
“Ld” flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating
pressure switch resets.
The automatic service diagnostics mode is activated by pressing:
SOAK - SOIL LEVEL - SOAK - SOIL LEVEL
Pump Motor correct resistance values
RD to WH 10 - 12 ohms
YL to WH 10 - 12 ohms
RD to YL 20 - 25 ohms
Good luck!
Got mine doing the test. Do you know how long it's going to take?
Usually 5-10 minutes.
I did not find any recall information on the duet, oasis, or bravos washers or dryers... if you do find info please post!! Thank you!
My Whirlpool Cabrio is giving me the "uL" code with nearly EVERY load (no matter the size or if I try to redistribute the load...even to the point of removing some items that may be heavier than others). What do I need to replace as far as repair?
The F70 code is a stored version of oL which is overloaded... it means that the inner tub did not float up off of the hub as water was filling the washer. This could be caused by something like a sock getting between the inner and outer tub and jamming the inner tub from moving freely. It can also be caused by rust on the drive shaft and center tube of the inner tub that is not allowing the tub to rise. You need to remove the inner basket and take a look... Hope that helps! Good Luck!
This wasn't my problem, but this explanation led me to the problem. Thanks!
Could it be weak springs?
@@Socal_fisherman626 not usually on an F70 that would most likely lead to an out of balance error instead of an overload error.
The basket sits low! When I try to push the basket down, it bottoms out
@@Socal_fisherman626 it could be a secondary issue. But should not cause the F70 code. There are no sensors for detecting that symptom, except for the ul “unbalanced load” the over load F70 is related to how much time/water is required to make the inner tub float, and disengage from the drive hub.
I ran the diagnostic test and now what? I have whirlpool cabrio model # wtw7600xw0. It is givong me error code f2, which from an interet search seems to be a stuck button. How do I fix this? Or what is my next step aftet diagnostic. Thank you for all your help! You really are great :)
Hi, I have a maytag bravos washer. During the spin cycle it will bang around and knock around so hard the machine stops and gives me an error code. This happens even if I run a test with no clothes inside the machine. I think the drum is loose. What can I do to fix it? Thanks in advance. Your site is very helpful to a layman like myself.
Did you get any codes by doing the diagnostic test?
Sorry for the delay! What is your washing machine's brand and model number?
Great Video, Any chance you know how to get a Whirlpool Cabrio wtw5550xw0 in diagnostics mode? my will spin sometimes other times not drain and sometimes it will pause thru the cycle and i have to hit start again and it will spin and drain but never say done when its done talk about a 600$ pile of junk
he said he tested the P4 connector and it was reading open , do you know what the part number is & estimated cost for a new board would be and where i could order one and do it myself? In regard to your Grandma... she was right.. that's why he is coming out to my house on Sunday. Thank you for all of your help, couldn't have gotten this far without you...ps... i am a woman with no experience in this area at all.
Have the Whirlpool Washer Cabrio Top-Load Model WTW5640XW3, have no water coming in at start up, went thru the diagnostic error code look up procedure, and only got F0 and E0 readings, can you help me?, still no water. Seems to go thru thru the water attempt twice I can hear a valve, and the lid locks like it should....no water entry....Thanks a million
Hi i was watching your video, and i just wanted to know were i can get a manual for the machine. I bought this machine on creigs list and in very good condition almost brand new. He did not have the manual and it is hard to know what the machine is doing when a certain light goes on and i do not know what it means. Well anyways the whirlpool cabrio wtw6400sw can you please give me some feed back. thanks jp
We have a Cabrio Washer WTW8100bW. It runs fine but when it changes to the next cycle, we get an OL code. My wife has to change the cycle manually. The manual says over load but that’s not the case. Light loads. Any suggestions?
Very helpful.....my button was the end of cycle signal button. 😉. Now let’s just hope I can figure it and fix it !
Hi, we have a Maytag Bravos xl and we tried this and it didn't provide any information. any other ways to get a diagnosis?
Awesome video thanks for the help. I received a fault code of F68. Could you shed some light on this. Thanks for the input.
I’m getting error code LE on my whirlpool Cabrio. The washer works just fine but at end of cycle if I don’t turn machine off manually the whole cycle starts again all on its own.
My whirlpool Cabrio has a F code. I'll be sure to try this and come back with the results. Gee guy, thanks alot.
You will need to measure for 120 VAC out of the control where the drain pump plugs in on "P4" terminal when the pump should be running... Hopefully you have a broken wire or bad connection... If you need parts I would greatly appreciate it if you purchase through the links on my site. Thanks for the question! Good luck!
no, i purchased the drain pump myself and installed it... it is still not draining and giving the same LD code and F32 when i run the diagnostics..the repair guy didnt have the part and said it would take 4 days to get... i got it much faster... the repair guy said he forgot to check the control board with the meter?
hi, i have a whirlpool cabrio. it wont power on and did the test from video and i get a f70. it went thought C0-C9 fine and still wont power on. any advice please
+Jessica Brockway Sorry for the delay! here is a link to the repair guide:
applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Cabrio-Bravos-Oasis/Cabrio-Bravo-Oasis-Error-Codes.php#ol
There could be something caught between the inner and outer tub that is keeping the inner tub from floating. I have also had quite a few that have a rusted drive shaft that will not let the tub float. If the shaft is rusted it can be very difficult to get it out and check... heres a video that shows a good trick:
ruclips.net/video/m7rfpFhIcX0/видео.html F70 and F51 can both come from what he's talking about. hope that helps!
I have a Whirlpool cabrio platinum and it is leaking on the inside. Dripping water into the tub. What is causing this drip, I have to put a bucket in to catch it so the water doesn't sour.
@applianceassistant Hi do I let each code go through it's stage or keep clicking because my washer have about 4 codes that would show up it runs a little but I kept going through each code and after I decided to was a small load it stopped again on 13 mins left of spin cycle
Hello, I have a Whirlpool Cabrio top loading HE machine. Looks exactly like the one in the video above per the control panel. I have been getting an LF code. It seems to be filling on some cycles but not others. I ran a ‘clean washer’ cycle and it did fill up all the way. It seems to not be filling at certain times in the cycle though. Sounds like it’s trying to by the sounds it makes. I cleaned the inflow screens and checked the inflow pressure, etc., it’s all ok. I’ve taken the inflow valve part out of the washer and I’m going to check it with an OHM next. Are there any other issues that would cause this code that I’m overlooking? I’ve had to fix this washer more than a few times myself. Getting ready to dump it if it’s going to be more complicated at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated! Mother of 4 and I need this washer to run consistently every day. 🙏
It sounds to me like the water valve may be mechanically unable to open. sometimes they can test okay with an OHM meter on the coil windings and still not work properly. The diagnostics test mode applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Whirlpool-Washer-Belt-Drive-Splutch/Whirlpool-Belt-Drive-Washer-Repair-Guide.php should allow you to test the hot and cold valve's ability to open. If the coils are getting power from the control, there is water comming to the valve, and the screens are clear, you can make a fairly safe assumption that the valve is what needs to be replaced. Thanks for the question! I hope that helps some! Good luck!
charles yingst; Hello, I ended up buying a gently used new washer for less than the cost of the in-take-valve part for the Cabrio. It was a lot more rusted than I expected when I got under the hood so to speak. The machine was 10 years old and should’ve had a lot more life to it but it is what is. 🤷♀️
I’m the proud owner of a Maytag now. 👍
Thank you for your reply and the help though!
That means that the basket never reengaged to the drive hub. You will probably need to replace the hub part#280145. They tend to get stripped out.
You do not explain how to get the washer into standby mode. Once I turn the washer one, it only allows standard operation. I've tried every other way to access the error codes, but nothing has worked.
bummer!... Thanks for the tip! I'm glad you got it working again!
Sounds like the inner tub is hung up... It should move up and down on the drive shaft pretty smoothly. When the tub fills with water it should allow the tub to float up and disengage from the drive hub for agitation, then drain out and sink to engage the hub for spin. You will need to pull the inner tub and check the hub. You may also want to clean (with sandpaper) and lightly lubricate the drive shaft. Hope that helps, good luck!
Sorry for the slow response. That would most likely point to your motor getting hot... You may have something like a small sock stuck between the inner and outer tubs. I have a service manual for that washer available on my website. Its not to difficult to pull the inner tub out and check.
Diagnostic stuck on c8 and actuator in the tub is moving left and right. Why?
wheres the video on how to remove the inner tub? thanks
Can a recalibration be performed on the model shown in this video?
I’m not 100% sure. I have never used the recalibration mode on this type of washer. Sorry, I can’t be of more help!
Common issues are suspension, center bearing leaks/rust, and the occasional cracked stator.
When my whirlpool cabrio goes into the drain and spin cycle it gives me a ld code. I did the diagnostic test and got a F32 error code. Can you tell me what that means?
How do I fix the lock I did the test it won't start because it won't lock
@Alprazolam Thanks for the complement! your video looks good... don't take it down.
i turned it to drain and spin to try and get the water out...all i hear after pressing start is a very faint click... it isn't the lid lock click because thats louder... there was nothing stuck in the long drain (which was the original LD code I saw displayed when it stopped draining the other day) when i ran the diagnostics it says F32.... which i thought was the drain pump... how do i check the internal basket to see if anything is stuck there.
Depending on how gummed up the hub and drive shaft are it may be easy and may be a pain... The cap of the agitator/wash plate will come off by prying from the side seam with a screwdriver. Then remove the 7/16" bolt and remove the agitator. you should see the hub. You then need to look it over really good for striped gear teeth anything that might keep the basket from lifting free when the tub floats. I have more info on my website. Good luck!
Thanks brother, So I spend $240 bucks on a new controller but now I'm getting a F83 display and after 8 mins of running it skips to 4 mins failing to agitate and drains completely. Any Ideas?
Amazing, solved my problem, ready to go back and do what I enjoy the most in this beautiful world.....LAUNDRY.....of course! Thank you!
Hey , awesome video learned something new and found out my whirlpool cabrio washing machine has error F70. As i ran the diagnostic test it would star on c0 then on to c1 and started spinning, but would only go on to c2 if i pressed a button, after that the machine stopped spinning and the test would continue without releasing hot or cold water up the machine just stayed with no action as diagnostic test ran from c2 up to c6 once on c6 machine would spin quickly then marked OL eny suggestions applianceassistant..
Does the inner tub lift up freely? It should float up on the water as it fills, once the tub has fully raised it should disengage from the drive hub and start the agitation movement. Sometimes there is something between the inner and outer tubs that keeps the tub from floating and that may be causing the F70 "OL" overloaded error. here is a link to the guide on my website applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Cabrio-Bravos-Oasis/Cabrio-Bravo-Oasis-Troubleshooting.php
applianceassistant
I have the same problem. Perplexing but since you seem to know all or at least a lot.. My question. The cabrio WTW6600 SB2 makes a lot of noise in the bottom back when it goes into a rinse/spin cycle. I ran the Diagnostic Test that you showed and it shows an error code of F70, yet the machine is empty. When it goes from C6 to C7 it agitates a bit, then gets about 1/2 turn if that and the code pops up and it jumps quickly from C7 to C8 and then C9 and shuts off. The done light comes on. I have lifted the basket and we keep cleaner run through it every month. Any suggestions? Oft times, but not always, the machine will go through the whole wash cycle with no problem whatsoever, but some times it will sound like a loose belt or something that is not letting it engage................... Your thoughts?
applianceassistant I am having the EXACT same problem as julio ceasar and my inner tub lifts and spins freely. I called whirlpool to try and get some insight and the only thing they could offer me was a $100 service call. I'm on the verge of replacing the control board but I really want to exhaust all other less costly options before I do it. Do you have any other suggestions?
Will text tomorrow.
Katie Doumlele
I am sorry. I lost your post, then was thinking of someone else on the Appliance assistant site. OK, If you have made sure the inner basket is clean and not damaged..then you need to go to the underside of the machine. HOWEVER, first lets make sure it was not the drive hub inside the machine. You can find you tube video on how to do this, but essentially, remove the agitator and then pry the sides of it with a couple screwdrivers until you can slip your fingers under neath and lift it up off the shaft. May be a pain, but you can get it off. Then unscrew the 7/16 bolt in the center and lift the basket off the shaft. This may be hard as it is heavy and if you have a stainless one, you better watch the sides as the holes in the side have sharp edges that can and will cut you. Once off, remove the drive hub screws (phillips, 6 each) and lift it off the shaft. Look carefully for any damage to the top part which will be on the tub, and the bottom pieces for broken teeth on the drive hub. Next take some 409 or whatever and clean the shaft top area. This would include the bearing area and the splines that run up and down the shaft...and their counterpart inside the inner tub. They have got to be clean and not broken. Next, I would check the filter and well below on the inside of the outer tub. Make sure everything is clean...and believe me, they probably aren't. When done, put the parts back together and retest. You should be able to slip your fingers inside the inner tub's top and lift it fairly easily about 1/2 inch and it should drop right back down. Do this a couple of times as it should be easy. Then try to run the machine again. Still a problem? Let me know and I will tell you the next part which will require you to unplug it and lay it on the front surface on a rug or towel and I can tell you what to do from there....although the procedures are on the repair sites and you tube. For my machine, the tub crud was the problem...... I will check this site often for your reply.
Hi I hope you can me... I have a Whirlpool Cabrio washer and I have the code "F" coming up. Not sure what that means..... Can you help. Is it something I could fix with out calling someone?
Ahhh... that's slightly different. Well I don't quite know what to suggest... I guess one step at a time. The nice thing is I think you can send that back to appliance parts pros for the cost of return shipping. The board should be sending out 120 VAC to the drain pump during the C7 step. If not check connections. If the connections are good it needs a new board :(
Sorry to hear about the difficulty...
My grandma always told me you get further with honey than vinegar... Good luck!
Hello - I have a Cabrio washer showing a code of lf - would love any info or help on how to remedy. THAnks in advance.
LF is "long fill" on this washer type, so you may have a problem with the water valve... does it seem to have a good amour of water flowing into the tub on hot? how about cold? If all that seems okay you may also have a pressure sensing problem, but that would probably result in the washer over flowing. If it is slow to fill check the valve screens and your home valves for good measure before replacing the water valve. Hope that helps! Thanks for the question!
Help i have a Cabrio wtw5500 model...is there away to find a code for it? It seems like the sensor may not be recongnizing that the lid is closed and it won't stay locked. It will lock to start and the it unlocks and won't continue the wash. Please help!
F1 is a general control board error : (
Any other symptoms? Or is it not working at all?
Nice! Thanks for the comment! and encouragement!
My Whirlpool Cabrio washes fine, but when it's on the spin cycle an error code (UL) pops up and it will almost all the time not ring all of the water from the close. Someone told me about the suspension rods or something like that but what do you think?
The suspension rods have been a common cause of the UL error. If it happens on a regular basis that is definitely the most likely cause. The new rod kit has been slightly changed from the first style to include a cup that the upper pivot point will rest in to reduce friction and allow for better movement. Fairly easy to replace them yourself, especially with two people. Best of luck!
@@applianceassistant I have replaced bearing/ suspension rods. And still same results
I have a whirolpool cabrio washer, when the machine is in the cycle of strikes wring sideways grabs and stops noisy and not what the problem is overloaded
My Whirlpool Cabrio washer, type 580, wtw6400sw3, cy0270534, is faulting during the rinse exhaust, showing ' LD' at @ 13 minute mark. I took the drain hose off, made sure hose & drainpipe clear, ran diagnostic, showed only ' F32'... Attempted a new wash load - worked OK for the wash cycle, faulted at the end of rinse cycle. Any idea what the problem is ? Thanks for the help !!
i went through the diagnostic mode and all works except for C9, doesn't drain whirlpool cabrio wtw6600sw1 any advice please help
Urgently need your kind assistance. I have a Whirlpool Cabrio. It shows "sd" error code. I would stop at the last spin. I have tried several times to use the bleach and clean cycles. Not removing the code. Can you please help. Is there a reset button or calibration function to see if this will go away? How can I fix myself. I called around and everyone is extremely costly during the holidays! Please help. Thank you in advance for your kindness. Happy Thanksgiving!
Sorry for the delay! The sd code is usually related to too much soap or slow draining so you will likely need to clear or replace the drain pump. If replacement is needed there are several options on Amazon for a decent price. There can also be coins and other things blocking the intake port to the pump under the inner basket... hope that help some, good luck!
hi, great video... mine says F do u hav any idea what that means? Thanks so much.
There should be something after the "F"... Did it do any of the diagnostic cycle?
We get the code UL on drain Spin and it stops how can I fix that
UL is “unbalanced load”. The most common cause of UL would be the tub suspension rods. The suspension rod replacement Doable with one person but easier with two if it’s your first time.
Please help. How do I fix F51? I did the diagnostic test per your instructions on the video. The codes are F50 and F51? How do I fix this?
Any help, suggestions, or comments will do.
Thank you.
F50 and F51 are motor errors usually related to the motor rotor position sensor (RPS). There is a test in the manual diagnostic mode that will check the RPS, but most commonly it is a bad connection at the RPS mounted near the motor or a control board problem. I have a guide describing the error and how to do more tests on my website. I hope it helps some! applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Cabrio-Bravos-Oasis/Cabrio-Bravo-Oasis-Guide.php
Hi Sir i did the diagnostic test and it just says complete
I never understood this washing machine essence I bought this .. I’m so frustrated it don’t drain and leave my cloth dirty.. I’m consider get the old ones always the best …..
My whirpool cabrio will not spin all the water out of clothes once it gets to spin it will stop working after a second and the lid lock light will sit and flash
F51 is a rotor position sensor error so you may also need to check the wire connections to the RPS. I would start with cleaning the drive shaft and see if the F51 comes back. You need to pull the motor stator to check the RPS so hopefully it was just a fluke. If you look under the washer the round plastic disk (rotor) should be clean, if there is water or rust residue on it you have a larger problem of the tub seal leaking : ( hopefully not... Good luck!
@asobermindisawasted1 there is no easy flush method that I am aware of, but fortunately remoting the inner tub for a good cleaning is pretty easy as well and requires no special tools. Just a flat head screwdriver and a small socket set with a ratchet. Using a net bag is the best way to prevent small items from getting in there. If you have not purchased your pump yet, I would greatly appreciate it if you would purchase through a link on my web site ;) Thanks! Good luck.
I'll check the pump, thanks. Diag. showed F32 & F33 the last time I fiddled with the washer.
My Cambrio doesn't show 88 or any number. I hold the SOIL LEVEL button for 3 seconds, release, hold, then release like you've said( or I have hearing problems) and it didn't work.
I just replaced the control module on my whirlpool cabrio washer, I went thru the diagnostic test mode but does not power on. what do you suggest?
If it's not powering up you would need to start with tracking voltage from the cord into the control for 120 Volts AC if it's getting to the control. Then if unplugging and plugging it back in should wake it up. If not, probably the control. Hope that helps! If you needs parts I get a commission on parts ordered through the my website : ) and most of them have a 1 year return policy! Good luck!
Does this work for the dryer, same make and model just the dryer to this set?
Hey I am getting OL error and on calibration it c6 that errors it out I've replaced the suspension rods but didn't fix it any idea of what I should look at?
Hey! As the washer fills up with water the inner tub should rise and float on the water. It’s fairly common that the sleeve of the center drive shaft will rust and not allow the tub to float freely. You should be able to grab the rim of the inner tub an lift it easily. If it’s jammed it’s a fairly challenging repair, you might want to consider hiring someone for that as some specialty tools are required.
thank so much for your help ,very good video
Tried this but the washer is not filling up with water. Any advise?
If you are in diagnostics with no water filling I would say check the home and washer valves. Probably one is off or the valve is bad. To be sure you would need to check for 120 Volts AC at the valve when it should be filling. If no voltage, broken wire or control. If you have voltage it’s the valve. Hope that helps!
I do the automatic diagnostic it goes to all All the cycles but at cycle c8 about 5 minutes stops and gives me code f72 what is that can u help please
Getting the dl error door lid? What can i do?
are there instructions on how to do that somewhere? my cabrio keeps quitting with the oL code like 15 minutes into a wash out of no where and i dunno what to do.
Does anyone know of a class action law suite against these washers?
Not that I’ve found, the washer in this video has been pretty good by today’s standards. Apart from the bearing issue they have been pretty solid. Not so much with the lower end belt drive version. If you find any info on a class action please let me know!