I spent 2 hours trying to air hammer the axle out with no luck, watched your video on the trick with the housing and got it out in 5 minutes. Thank you for your video
Great video. Much simpiler process than other videos I watched. You trick with the air hammer probably saved me hours of prying and banging. It took about 2 miutes with the air hammer moving it around to different angles and then the bearing just started to vibrate out of the bracket.
Awesome job on your video, with explanation! Im a 40 year plus ASE cert and was really impressed!! Keep up the great work!!!!! Sincerely Mike Rowe Rowe's Restorations
f-ing genius! wish I had found this before I replaced Highlander pass. side cv axle, was massively frustrating getting it to release, ended up using air chisel to pound it thru the carrier
Great video!! Very clear and straight to the point. But I was wondering, what brand CV axle did you use? I feel like the most of the Internet speculates that OEM is the way to go for CV axles but they’re so freaking expensive.
My 2011 Sienna has started shaking around 40 mph - 60 mph then tapers down as speed increases. I think it is that carrier bearing or worn CV shaft parts (Sienna has 171K miles on it) and when I replaced the RH control arm awhile ago I saw that the CV boot was torn and the grease is coming out. The manual says "When removing and installing front right hand driveshaft assembly on 4WD vehicles ensure to first drain all transaxle oil and transfer oil. If removal and installation is carried out without draining these oils, the transfer oil will flow into the transaxle side. Extensive cleaning is required if the two oils mix." I don't see anyone draining and refilling the transaxle oil (which is a whole other crazy process apparently) and apparently there is some kind of transfer oil too? I didn't see any oil leak out of the transmission when you did the shaft replacement but I have seen it happen on other videos (and am sure mine would dump oil out too). Do you drain the transmission when you replace the axle? Thanks! :-)
Thank you very much you made it a piece of cake. Excellent advice. Now how do you remove the driver side. Is there a special tool for the toyota sienna to remove the driver side axle?
Unfortunately, the driver-side CV axle has a circlip with which one has to contend, a circlip which must come into alignment. I recommend having an assistant to turn the passenger-side wheel 30-degrees at a time as you attempt to pry it out. I find, it usually takes less than three-minutes. Also, when replacing the driver-side, place the ends of the circlip at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions; it will make seating the axle into position much easier.
I really wish i had watched this before i did mine 2 days ago. I struggled with it for hours. Unfortunately i DID damage the seal around where the shaft goes back in. I haven't finished the job. Can that seal be easily replaced? Its not terrible damaged but it is noticeable. Thanks for the video as this will help when i put the new axle in this week.
Thanks for this trick! Good video! However, I saw that the axle was not all the way in. I had the same problem, does the axle have to go all the way in?
GREAT suggestion and video!! Looks like no transmission fluid came out. Just one question, does the seal (between transmission case and axle) need to be replaced together with the cv axle?
My new passenger side axle popped out while I was at a stop light and tried to give it gas. Am I screwed? It was towed back home…a mechanic told me if you don’t put the car in neutral when installing that it will not lock in place. Is that true or did I maybe not installed it correctly? I thought the retaining bolt was pretty tight..
Hey Automotive Tech-Vet - which replacement CV axles do you install on Sienna's? Since you've been doing this a long time with no call-backs, wanted to get your perspective. Somewhat related, would you install a GSP CV axle on your vehicle? Hoping to hear your thoughts on GSP as that's what I have on the way. My 2012 is slinging grease on both size, hoping a new GSP axle is a good option.
The best I can determine is the tech-vet is using a Blue-Point air hammer, a model AT2050 with a 180mm smoothing hammer bit. I was particularly interested because I believe I understand how he gets the CV axle to walk-out of the carrier bearing bracket. Notwithstanding its ability to turn the rust into dust, I believe it is an application of the Chladni Plate effect. Like the sand in the physics experiment, the carrier bearing seeks a node in the wave front, the node being outside of the bracket. Given this depends on the resonant frequency of the bracket and the frequency imparted by the air hammer, the performance between air hammers might not all be the same. For example, the Blue-Point model AT2050 is rated at 3,400 BPM or 3.4 KHz. On the other hand, Astro Pneumatic’s 4980 Air Hammer (aka Big Nasty) operates at 1,800 BPM or 1.8 KHz. Although it is a powerful air hammer, its frequency might not be the resonant frequency of the bracket, causing the bracket to absorb rather than amplify the wave front, resulting in poor performance. Viewing a number of comments on this subject, a few have reported disappointing results using an air hammer. At first, I thought it might be because they were using a chisel bit rather than a smoothing bit or something, but it could be because of the frequency of their air hammers.
I tourqe wheels and cylinder heads , I have much respect for engineers, but they also seek to forget about the people in the field who deal with over designing, lol it's all good we all come together in the end , thanks for your feedback my friend 😉
I spent 2 hours trying to air hammer the axle out with no luck, watched your video on the trick with the housing and got it out in 5 minutes. Thank you for your video
Your welcome that's what I do my friend
Great video. Much simpiler process than other videos I watched. You trick with the air hammer probably saved me hours of prying and banging. It took about 2 miutes with the air hammer moving it around to different angles and then the bearing just started to vibrate out of the bracket.
Thanks my friend
Awesome job on your video, with explanation!
Im a 40 year plus ASE cert and was really impressed!! Keep up the great work!!!!! Sincerely Mike Rowe Rowe's Restorations
f-ing genius! wish I had found this before I replaced Highlander pass. side cv axle, was massively frustrating getting it to release, ended up using air chisel to pound it thru the carrier
This is what I'm here for !!! Thanks for the comment 👍 and my new support friend and subscriber.. I love helping people make things more simple 💕 💗
Like magic. That hammer drill trick!
Love it!!!
Great video!! Very clear and straight to the point. But I was wondering, what brand CV axle did you use? I feel like the most of the Internet speculates that OEM is the way to go for CV axles but they’re so freaking expensive.
Good video!
My 2011 Sienna has started shaking around 40 mph - 60 mph then tapers down as speed increases. I think it is that carrier bearing or worn CV shaft parts (Sienna has 171K miles on it) and when I replaced the RH control arm awhile ago I saw that the CV boot was torn and the grease is coming out.
The manual says "When removing and installing front right hand driveshaft assembly on 4WD vehicles ensure to first drain all transaxle oil and transfer oil. If removal and installation is carried out without draining these oils, the transfer oil will flow into the transaxle side. Extensive cleaning is required if the two oils mix."
I don't see anyone draining and refilling the transaxle oil (which is a whole other crazy process apparently) and apparently there is some kind of transfer oil too? I didn't see any oil leak out of the transmission when you did the shaft replacement but I have seen it happen on other videos (and am sure mine would dump oil out too).
Do you drain the transmission when you replace the axle? Thanks! :-)
Never have my friend and never had any problems ever
Thank you very much for the video and reply!! :-)
Fantastic!!!!
Trick worked thank u
Thank you very much you made it a piece of cake. Excellent advice. Now how do you remove the driver side. Is there a special tool for the toyota sienna to remove the driver side axle?
Unfortunately, the driver-side CV axle has a circlip with which one has to contend, a circlip which must come into alignment. I recommend having an assistant to turn the passenger-side wheel 30-degrees at a time as you attempt to pry it out. I find, it usually takes less than three-minutes. Also, when replacing the driver-side, place the ends of the circlip at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions; it will make seating the axle into position much easier.
I really wish i had watched this before i did mine 2 days ago. I struggled with it for hours. Unfortunately i DID damage the seal around where the shaft goes back in. I haven't finished the job. Can that seal be easily replaced? Its not terrible damaged but it is noticeable. Thanks for the video as this will help when i put the new axle in this week.
It just pops out and press a new one in with a large enough socket and hammer
Thanks for this trick! Good video! However, I saw that the axle was not all the way in. I had the same problem, does the axle have to go all the way in?
As long as the snap ring seats your good
GREAT suggestion and video!! Looks like no transmission fluid came out. Just one question, does the seal (between transmission case and axle) need to be replaced together with the cv axle?
If it's not leaking it doesn't need to be replaced 💯
My new passenger side axle popped out while I was at a stop light and tried to give it gas. Am I screwed? It was towed back home…a mechanic told me if you don’t put the car in neutral when installing that it will not lock in place. Is that true or did I maybe not installed it correctly? I thought the retaining bolt was pretty tight..
Do you need to have an alignment done after this?
@@sandsjj1 no
How powerful of an air hammer do you recommend? That’s a great trick.
Just a medium grade will do the trick my friend
dam, I've been fighting one for the past hour...
Do I need to get an alignment after I do this?
Hey Automotive Tech-Vet - which replacement CV axles do you install on Sienna's? Since you've been doing this a long time with no call-backs, wanted to get your perspective. Somewhat related, would you install a GSP CV axle on your vehicle? Hoping to hear your thoughts on GSP as that's what I have on the way. My 2012 is slinging grease on both size, hoping a new GSP axle is a good option.
Your good 👍 good quality 👌
My van is lowered, there is a clicking when making tight sharp turns. Could it be cause of the van being lowered?
No I doubt it probably just a worn cv joint
Even if it only has 36k on the odometer? Van has coil overs.
It’s a 2011 with 36k
Unless it's a strut mount or spring popping
Sir - which air hammer model & attachment did you use to vibrate out that carrier bearing?
Just a hammer bit
It's a snap on air hammer but any decent models will be ok with a hammer bit
The best I can determine is the tech-vet is using a Blue-Point air hammer, a model AT2050 with a 180mm smoothing hammer bit. I was particularly interested because I believe I understand how he gets the CV axle to walk-out of the carrier bearing bracket. Notwithstanding its ability to turn the rust into dust, I believe it is an application of the Chladni Plate effect. Like the sand in the physics experiment, the carrier bearing seeks a node in the wave front, the node being outside of the bracket. Given this depends on the resonant frequency of the bracket and the frequency imparted by the air hammer, the performance between air hammers might not all be the same. For example, the Blue-Point model AT2050 is rated at 3,400 BPM or 3.4 KHz. On the other hand, Astro Pneumatic’s 4980 Air Hammer (aka Big Nasty) operates at 1,800 BPM or 1.8 KHz. Although it is a powerful air hammer, its frequency might not be the resonant frequency of the bracket, causing the bracket to absorb rather than amplify the wave front, resulting in poor performance. Viewing a number of comments on this subject, a few have reported disappointing results using an air hammer. At first, I thought it might be because they were using a chisel bit rather than a smoothing bit or something, but it could be because of the frequency of their air hammers.
how come u don't torque any of the nuts?
When you been doing this as long as I have you have that feel ,and I don't have comebacks I know my stuff my friend
I tourqe wheels and cylinder heads , I have much respect for engineers, but they also seek to forget about the people in the field who deal with over designing, lol it's all good we all come together in the end , thanks for your feedback my friend 😉
@@automotivetech-vet No, it's because you're lazy.
didn't work for me on 99 Lexus ES300.
Omg yes my friend could not get this danm thing out smh 😤