You probably won't see this. I got new light switches that are the no screw type. I think I can do it. Obviously i do nothing without turning the mains off and watching hundreds of RUclips vids Thanks for your channel and generous info
We call them death sticks. Don't rely on them as a means to safely isolate. They're merely an indication as to live. Plenty of times they don't show live. At minimum test on a known live source before and after using a voltage stick.
@@rayc1503 sure they are an indication and isolation should be carried out prior to as already exemplified. On using a source, If one is conversant with wiring you necessarily don’t need to take the switch apart as you can pull the earth down on the switch housing using a roughneck mains tester screwdriver or multi meter which exposes both live and neutral and check for live and bottom right of the housing or if you prefer on live cable circuitry. The screwdriver sometimes arent wholly reliable I.e fuse blown out and shock prone etc but thanks for the contribution and feedback. Have a lovely week
One saved my life earlier. Thought I isolated the shower. Went to check and nope, still live. I'm just happy I had one, because it's definitely the type of thing I'd not buy thinking "it'll be fine"
No light showing on the On position however yesterday was working and shower was going on and off now no power at all to shower regardless. I checked consumer unit nothing has tripped. Could it be just if I change the pull cord ?
1. It could be a loose connection or the moving parts inside are not clicking correctly or that it's a sub standard part that needs replacing(wear and tear shelf life of poor quality product exponentially impacted), invest in a good quality switch. Next, make sure that your socket isn’t screwed in too tightly. This can cramp the wires inside, causing them to malfunction, the neon light wires are usually quite fickle and can easily break so should be handled with care. if there was a short circuit , your consumer unit would have tripped OFF so i doubt there was a short circuit.or 2. it may not coming ON because it might have something to do with your thermostat or needs a Neutral, is there is a capped off neutral wire in the socket for the light switch (along with an earth which is connected to the backing plate) and do you have only red live wires and a green/yellow earth?you can not assume it is a neutral, you will need to get some one to check it for you. 3. Check your connections are sound Presume you wired it identical to your previous switch for instance where neon came ON with switch ON or OFF as required and your asking or wondering if your new switch presumably has feeds opposite way and it’s safety? I presume the Shower you have installed does seem to respond to pull cord switch (irrespective of NEON light) and functioning okay but with the neon light constantly ON or some times OFF but works regardless From what you are saying it appears It's not clearly electrically identical to the old switch (unless or except that was also wired wrongly previously ) The terminals on the switch are labelled - it will work or function fine and is not dangerous - but it is wrong, has the potential or propensity to confuse anyone maintaining the shower circuit unit and should be wired correctly or corrected. The neon being permanently 'ON' is usually caused by wiring the permanent live conductors to the 'load' side of the switch - this needs to be VERIFIED. Permanent' live conductors are the line and neutral going to the consumer unit. Switched conductors are line and neutral going to the shower. The neon is connected across these so it lights up when the switch is closed ('ON'). Looks like it was wired backwards, appears cable's must be back to front as two cables for feed and load, so compare your two switches layout both OLD and NEW. So it presumably looks like your Supply CABLES are in the LOAD side of the connection and LOAD side cables are in the Supply side of the connection. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on and don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a great weekend
Hi K, Yes it does matter. You want to connect the switching live in the right place. If it’s in the wrong place the LED lamp will constantly illuminate. Your switch electrical circuit should be connected to the live wire so that the socket or is not live when it is switched off. Scenario If you wire it erratically your Neon light may come ON with switch or OFF and if your are asking if it matters or wondering if your new switch presumably can have feeds opposite way and it’s safety? If you install interchange the supply for the load, It will respond to pull cord switch (irrespective of NEON light) and functioning okay but with the neon light constantly ON. The terminals on the switch are labelled - it will work or function fine and is not dangerous - but it is wrong, has the potential or propensity to confuse anyone maintaining the shower circuit unit and should be wired correctly or corrected. The neon being permanently 'ON' is usually caused by wiring the permanent live conductors to the 'load' side of the switch - this needs to be VERIFIED. Permanent' live conductors are the line and neutral going to the consumer unit. Switched conductors are line and neutral going to the shower. The neon is connected across these so it lights up when the switch is closed ('ON'). You shouldn’t be wiring backwards, or having cable's back to front as two cables for feed and load, so compare your two switches layout both OLD and NEW. You should not have Supply CABLES in the LOAD side of the connection and LOAD side cables in the Supply side of the connection. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on and don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a great weekend
Thanks! We found a build up of dust in the puller clogging up the system...and was told if you want the switch to last longer then leave it on most of the time only turn off when leaving the house for a long while
You welcome N Bambi. It appears that you may have had the switch for a extensive period of time or there might have been presumably heavy traction on the floors of the house that may have resulted in some loose plaster or dust finding it’s way in the box switch box. You may have been told to leave it on for extended periods and off when leaving the house to extend its useful shelf life as the mechanism is subject to mechanical wear and tear over protracted periods. But check with your energy supplier if having your pull cord switch on standby mode may result in a slight increment in your energy bill as certain devices accrue minimal energy when in standby mode but not as high as if it were in full power mode. I guess the benefit outweigh the cost for you in prolonging the life of your switch given the advise you were given. My few cents. . Appreciate the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Helps the channel grow and have a great holiday.
Hi can we leave these on all the time if the shower is used daily? I'm not concerned about the cost as I know it'll only use a minimal amount of electric, it's more to do with safety. I understand it's good to turn it off if you're out of the property for a while, but if the shower is literally used every day, is it better to leave it left on? Please reply , thanks.
Hi 137dylan, Although it is usually OK,you should leave the switch turned off when not in use to prevent a permanent source of high-currents. it is not recommended to leave your shower pull switch on all the time. Pull switches are designed to be used when you need them and then turned off afterwards for safety. Leaving your pull switch on can lead to it getting stuck, which can be a serious hazard, particularly when it comes to electrical pull switches. If your pull switch is stuck, it can create an electrical hazard by continually allowing electricity through, potentially leading to wiring overheating, or a fire. I hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Helps channel grow. Have a good one
hello, what brand and model, for the " Pull Cord Ceiling Switch With Neon (45 Amp, Double Pole)" will you recommend, quality and practical, not looks, I am more interested in function, than what they look like, thanks, plus your video, is very helpful.
i managed to fit mine the other day. however i installed the back box about 20/30mm deep into the plaster and just plastered around it. as it was hard to secure it the the lath behind. is it ok that the back box isnt flush with the plaster. it all works fine though
Thank you for the vid, my existing old switch is stuck on, when I pull on it the shower light goes off briefly but the pullcord doesnt fully go down anymore so it doesnt click off if that makes sense, any ideas if this is an easy fix rather then replace the switch? Thanks :)
Note: There are aftermarket Switches though quality passed which are sub-contracted or sourced cheaply on material and labour. As much as a strip down, disassembly and reassembly or replacement or retrofit of components could have resolved the problem, unfortunately your pull cord may becoming to the end of its useful life as may have suffered mechanical wear and tear and presumably may be due for replacement and would save you time, quality and cost in the long run. Even if you succeed in fixing it after repair it may need to be professionally certified and tested OK by a qualified engineer to ratify that it is safe for operation to prevent any house fires resulting from the partial connections, poor rework and installation, overheating or the switch been stuck. I understand the need to salvage your unit but try to invest in a sturdy and good quality switch from your local dealer which has a long shelf life , also use reasonable force as opposed to pulling erratically on the switch during operation and don’t leave the switch ON for protracted periods to prevent the switch been stuck or over heating as they are designed to be switched ON and OFF. I hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a brilliant weekend
My red led light on the pull cord switch isnt on anymore even though it turns on the main light when you pull it down and it goes back up no little led light to indicate its on apart from when it says (on/off)
This has happened to me. It's been wired up wrong. I think it was the brown wires were in the wrong ports. It's a bit of a nightmare taking the plate off again without it disturbing the other wires but easy to sort out eventually.
Hi flo496, Depends on where it broke. Mid way you can just tie to its other strand. But this is a temporary fix as subject to break loose on constant usage. If it’s at the housing or casing. Then a more permanent fix would be to follow these steps: 1. Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit breaker. 2. Remove the cover plate of the switch to access the inner mechanism. 3. Locate the rope or cord attached to the switch mechanism. 4. If the rope is broken or damaged, replace it with a new one of the same length. 5. Thread the new rope through the hole in the switch mechanism and tie a secure knot at the end. 6. Replace the cover plate and turn the power back on. Remember to always exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with the process, it's best to consult a professional electrician. Don’t forget to subscribe like and share. Helps channel grow
Thanks for the feedback Sam. Glad you are sorted and got there in the end. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Helps channel grow. Have a great weekend.
Presume you wired it identical to your previous switch for instance where neon came ON with switch or OFF as required and your asking or wondering if your new switch presumably has feeds opposite way and it’s safety? I presume the Shower you have installed does seem to respond to pull cord switch (irrespective of NEON light) and functioning okay but with the neon light constantly ON. From what you are saying it appears It's not clearly electrically identical to the old switch (unless or except that was also wired wrongly previously ) The terminals on the switch are labelled - it will work or function fine and is not dangerous - but it is wrong, has the potential or propensity to confuse anyone maintaining the shower circuit unit and should be wired correctly or corrected. The neon being permanently 'ON' is usually caused by wiring the permanent live conductors to the 'load' side of the switch - this needs to be VERIFIED. Permanent' live conductors are the line and neutral going to the consumer unit. Switched conductors are line and neutral going to the shower. The neon is connected across these so it lights up when the switch is closed ('ON'). Looks like it was wired backwards, appears cable's must be back to front as two cables for feed and load, so compare your two switches layout both OLD and NEW. So it looks like your Supply CABLES are in the LOAD side of the connection and LOAD side cables are in the Supply side of the connection. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on and don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a great weekend
Hi Surendra, are you having issues with a light switch, pull cord switch or a switch that controls your pull cord? What specific issue is being experienced?
![Baby Kia - GLOVES & DRACS (BLACK AF1s) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ajm8LeB0qQk/mqdefault.jpg)
You probably won't see this. I got new light switches that are the no screw type. I think I can do it. Obviously i do nothing without turning the mains off and watching hundreds of RUclips vids Thanks for your channel and generous info
thanks for breaking it down. saves having a call out and saving cost.
Thanks Raven. Appreciate the feedback. dont forget to subscribe and share. helps channel grow
Excellent info and great vid. I have ordered a non contact voltage detector, definitely one of those things you don't know you need to see it!
Thanks David and appreciate the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a blessed week. Take care
We call them death sticks. Don't rely on them as a means to safely isolate. They're merely an indication as to live. Plenty of times they don't show live. At minimum test on a known live source before and after using a voltage stick.
@@rayc1503 sure they are an indication and isolation should be carried out prior to as already exemplified. On using a source, If one is conversant with wiring you necessarily don’t need to take the switch apart as you can pull the earth down on the switch housing using a roughneck mains tester screwdriver or multi meter which exposes both live and neutral and check for live and bottom right of the housing or if you prefer on live cable circuitry. The screwdriver sometimes arent wholly reliable I.e fuse blown out and shock prone etc but thanks for the contribution and feedback. Have a lovely week
One saved my life earlier. Thought I isolated the shower. Went to check and nope, still live. I'm just happy I had one, because it's definitely the type of thing I'd not buy thinking "it'll be fine"
Or just turn the Lecky off 😂
fabulous. great job showing test and install from start to finish. many thanks
Thanks for the feedback
No light showing on the On position however yesterday was working and shower was going on and off now no power at all to shower regardless. I checked consumer unit nothing has tripped. Could it be just if I change the pull cord ?
1. It could be a loose connection or the moving parts inside are not clicking correctly or that it's a sub standard part that needs replacing(wear and tear shelf life of poor quality product exponentially impacted), invest in a good quality switch. Next, make sure that your socket isn’t screwed in too tightly. This can cramp the wires inside, causing them to malfunction, the neon light wires are usually quite fickle and can easily break so should be handled with care. if there was a short circuit , your consumer unit would have tripped OFF so i doubt there was a short circuit.or 2. it may not coming ON because it might have something to do with your thermostat or needs a Neutral, is there is a capped off neutral wire in the socket for the light switch (along with an earth which is connected to the backing plate) and do you have only red live wires and a green/yellow earth?you can not assume it is a neutral, you will need to get some one to check it for you.
3. Check your connections are sound
Presume you wired it identical to your previous switch for instance where neon came ON with switch ON or OFF as required and your asking or wondering if your new switch presumably has feeds opposite way and it’s safety? I presume the Shower you have installed does seem to respond to pull cord switch (irrespective of NEON light) and functioning okay but with the neon light constantly ON or some times OFF but works regardless
From what you are saying it appears It's not clearly electrically identical to the old switch (unless or except that was also wired wrongly previously )
The terminals on the switch are labelled - it will work or function fine and is not dangerous - but it is wrong, has the potential or propensity to confuse anyone maintaining the shower circuit unit and should be wired correctly or corrected.
The neon being permanently 'ON' is usually caused by wiring the permanent live conductors to the 'load' side of the switch - this needs to be VERIFIED. Permanent' live conductors are the line and neutral going to the consumer unit.
Switched conductors are line and neutral going to the shower. The neon is connected across these so it lights up when the switch is closed ('ON').
Looks like it was wired backwards, appears cable's must be back to front as two cables for feed and load, so compare your two switches layout both OLD and NEW. So it presumably looks like your Supply CABLES are in the LOAD side of the connection and LOAD side cables are in the Supply side of the connection. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on and don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a great weekend
does it matter which side the supply wires goes. or can it be either way round if that makes sense
Hi K, Yes it does matter. You want to connect the switching live in the right place. If it’s in the wrong place the LED lamp will constantly illuminate. Your switch electrical circuit should be connected to the live wire so that the socket or is not live when it is switched off.
Scenario
If you wire it erratically your Neon light may come ON with switch or OFF and if your are asking if it matters or wondering if your new switch presumably can have feeds opposite way and it’s safety?
If you install interchange the supply for the load, It will respond to pull cord switch (irrespective of NEON light) and functioning okay but with the neon light constantly ON.
The terminals on the switch are labelled - it will work or function fine and is not dangerous - but it is wrong, has the potential or propensity to confuse anyone maintaining the shower circuit unit and should be wired correctly or corrected.
The neon being permanently 'ON' is usually caused by wiring the permanent live conductors to the 'load' side of the switch - this needs to be VERIFIED. Permanent' live conductors are the line and neutral going to the consumer unit.
Switched conductors are line and neutral going to the shower. The neon is connected across these so it lights up when the switch is closed ('ON'). You shouldn’t be wiring backwards, or having cable's back to front as two cables for feed and load, so compare your two switches layout both OLD and NEW.
You should not have Supply CABLES in the LOAD side of the connection and LOAD side cables in the Supply side of the connection. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on and don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a great weekend
@@UtechUreview that helps a lot. wad confused about the load and supply. thanks!!
Very helpful video, cheers for this.👍
Appreciate the feedback Blades-fm6ck , Glad you found it helpful. Don’t forget to subscribe, like and share. Have a great week
Thanks! We found a build up of dust in the puller clogging up the system...and was told if you want the switch to last longer then leave it on most of the time only turn off when leaving the house for a long while
You welcome N Bambi. It appears that you may have had the switch for a extensive period of time or there might have been presumably heavy traction on the floors of the house that may have resulted in some loose plaster or dust finding it’s way in the box switch box. You may have been told to leave it on for extended periods and off when leaving the house to extend its useful shelf life as the mechanism is subject to mechanical wear and tear over protracted periods. But check with your energy supplier if having your pull cord switch on standby mode may result in a slight increment in your energy bill as certain devices accrue minimal energy when in standby mode but not as high as if it were in full power mode. I guess the benefit outweigh the cost for you in prolonging the life of your switch given the advise you were given. My few cents.
. Appreciate the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Helps the channel grow and have a great holiday.
easy to follow, your a legend, thank you
Thank you
Hi can we leave these on all the time if the shower is used daily? I'm not concerned about the cost as I know it'll only use a minimal amount of electric, it's more to do with safety. I understand it's good to turn it off if you're out of the property for a while, but if the shower is literally used every day, is it better to leave it left on? Please reply , thanks.
Hi 137dylan, Although it is usually OK,you should leave the switch turned off when not in use to prevent a permanent source of high-currents.
it is not recommended to leave your shower pull switch on all the time. Pull switches are designed to be used when you need them and then turned off afterwards for safety.
Leaving your pull switch on can lead to it getting stuck, which can be a serious hazard, particularly when it comes to electrical pull switches.
If your pull switch is stuck, it can create an electrical hazard by continually allowing electricity through, potentially leading to wiring overheating, or a fire.
I hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Helps channel grow. Have a good one
hello, what brand and model, for the " Pull Cord Ceiling Switch With Neon (45 Amp, Double Pole)" will you recommend, quality and practical, not looks, I am more interested in function, than what they look like, thanks, plus your video, is very helpful.
Very informative. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback Anhema. Subscribe and share if you can. Have a great week.
i managed to fit mine the other day. however i installed the back box about 20/30mm deep into the plaster and just plastered around it. as it was hard to secure it the the lath behind. is it ok that the back box isnt flush with the plaster. it all works fine though
Hi, I wired the new socket and the light remains off, and when the cord is pulled the light comes on, but the shower doesn't work.😟
Thank you for the vid, my existing old switch is stuck on, when I pull on it the shower light goes off briefly but the pullcord doesnt fully go down anymore so it doesnt click off if that makes sense, any ideas if this is an easy fix rather then replace the switch? Thanks :)
Note: There are aftermarket Switches though quality passed which are sub-contracted or sourced cheaply on material and labour. As much as a strip down, disassembly and reassembly or replacement or retrofit of components could have resolved the problem, unfortunately your pull cord may becoming to the end of its useful life as may have suffered mechanical wear and tear and presumably may be due for replacement and would save you time, quality and cost in the long run. Even if you succeed in fixing it after repair it may need to be professionally certified and tested OK by a qualified engineer to ratify that it is safe for operation to prevent any house fires resulting from the partial connections, poor rework and installation, overheating or the switch been stuck. I understand the need to salvage your unit but try to invest in a sturdy and good quality switch from your local dealer which has a long shelf life , also use reasonable force as opposed to pulling erratically on the switch during operation and don’t leave the switch ON for protracted periods to prevent the switch been stuck or over heating as they are designed to be switched ON and OFF.
I hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a brilliant weekend
@UTech UReview thank you so much for the detailed info, have a great weekend 😀
My red led light on the pull cord switch isnt on anymore even though it turns on the main light when you pull it down and it goes back up no little led light to indicate its on apart from when it says (on/off)
This has happened to me. It's been wired up wrong. I think it was the brown wires were in the wrong ports. It's a bit of a nightmare taking the plate off again without it disturbing the other wires but easy to sort out eventually.
easy to follow thanks.
Thanks Hose
My rope break . Do I need a new one ?
Hi flo496,
Depends on where it broke. Mid way you can just tie to its other strand. But this is a temporary fix as subject to break loose on constant usage.
If it’s at the housing or casing. Then a more permanent fix would be to follow these steps:
1. Turn off the power to the switch at the circuit breaker.
2. Remove the cover plate of the switch to access the inner mechanism.
3. Locate the rope or cord attached to the switch mechanism.
4. If the rope is broken or damaged, replace it with a new one of the same length.
5. Thread the new rope through the hole in the switch mechanism and tie a secure knot at the end.
6. Replace the cover plate and turn the power back on.
Remember to always exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with the process, it's best to consult a professional electrician.
Don’t forget to subscribe like and share. Helps channel grow
Spot on
Thanks for the feedback Sam. Glad you are sorted and got there in the end. Don’t forget to subscribe and share. Helps channel grow. Have a great weekend.
Great video lad, I've just installed the same pull cord for my shower and the indicator light is on even in the off position, is this normal? Thanks.
Presume you wired it identical to your previous switch for instance where neon came ON with switch or OFF as required and your asking or wondering if your new switch presumably has feeds opposite way and it’s safety? I presume the Shower you have installed does seem to respond to pull cord switch (irrespective of NEON light) and functioning okay but with the neon light constantly ON.
From what you are saying it appears It's not clearly electrically identical to the old switch (unless or except that was also wired wrongly previously )
The terminals on the switch are labelled - it will work or function fine and is not dangerous - but it is wrong, has the potential or propensity to confuse anyone maintaining the shower circuit unit and should be wired correctly or corrected.
The neon being permanently 'ON' is usually caused by wiring the permanent live conductors to the 'load' side of the switch - this needs to be VERIFIED. Permanent' live conductors are the line and neutral going to the consumer unit.
Switched conductors are line and neutral going to the shower. The neon is connected across these so it lights up when the switch is closed ('ON').
Looks like it was wired backwards, appears cable's must be back to front as two cables for feed and load, so compare your two switches layout both OLD and NEW. So it looks like your Supply CABLES are in the LOAD side of the connection and LOAD side cables are in the Supply side of the connection. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on and don’t forget to subscribe and share. Have a great weekend
I had same issue swith is identical followed vid but light permanently on
@@UtechUreview I already swapped wires rnd sorted it straight away but cheers anyway
@@hodmusprime3850having the same problem now. Which wires did you switch around? Cheers
easy to follow. thanks very much. legend
your welcome. Thanks
How to repair an square bathroom switch
Hi Surendra, are you having issues with a light switch, pull cord switch or a switch that controls your pull cord? What specific issue is being experienced?
I guess once the cord breaks, the whole switch needs replacing?
presumably yes, as its more economical or cost effective
I was going to do this myself but I'm colour blind.